09-Jan-23
FE – 405: Knitting - II
L-07. Single Jersey Derivatives
Single Jersey Derivatives
? Plain Derivative:
A single jersey Fabric with all knit 02. 03.
01.
loop is called plain fabric. Cross Miss Birds Eye Weft Locknit
When the fabric is composed of
knit, tuck and miss loop, it is 04. 05. 06.
called derivative. Mock Rib Pique Polo Pique
Example of Single Jersey
derivatives are - 07. 08. 09.
Single Lacoste Double Lacoste Crepe Effect
10.
Twill Effect
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Single Jersey Derivatives
01. The Cross Miss:
Cross miss is a knit-miss single jersey
structure with a two-course x two-wales
(2x2) repeat.
This structure doesn’t have any regular
knit loop, rather held and miss loop
form the total fabric.
Therefore, the face side appears to be
composed of double sized knit loop
and a vertical stripe effect can be
brought by using alternate colored yarn.
Single Jersey Derivatives
01. The Cross Miss:
Knitting Action:
Knit on all odd number needles and
Course - 01
miss on all even number needles.
knit on all even number needles and
Course – 02
Miss on all odd number needles.
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Single Jersey Derivatives
01. The Cross Miss:
Single Jersey Derivatives
02. The Birds Eye or Double Cross Miss:
This is a 4x2 knit miss single jersey
structure widely known as Birds Eye.
It is an extension of Cross Miss structure
where each course of Cross Miss is
doubled.
Unlike Cross Miss, this structure has a
regular knit loop on top of each held
loop.
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Single Jersey Derivatives
02. The Birds Eye or Double Cross Miss:
Knitting Action:
Knit on all odd number needles and
Course – 01,
miss on all even number needles in
02
the repeat.
Course – 03, Knit on all even number needles and
04 Miss on all odd number needles.
Single Jersey Derivatives
02. The Birds Eye or Double Cross Miss:
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Single Jersey Derivatives
03. The Weft Locknit:
This is a 4x2 single jersey structure
which has two all knit courses and two
alternate knit miss courses.
This is also an extension of Cross Miss
where an all-knit course is inserted after
each course of Cross Miss structure.
Attractive fancy appearance can be
brought by altering the color or type of
yarn.
Single Jersey Derivatives
03. The Weft Locknit:
Knitting Action:
Course – 01,
Knit on all the needles in the repeat.
03
Miss on all odd number needles and
Course – 02
knit on all even number needles.
Knit on all odd number needles and
Course – 04 miss on all even number needles in the
repeat.
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Single Jersey Derivatives
03. The Weft Locknit:
Single Jersey Derivatives
03. The Weft Locknit:
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Single Jersey Derivatives
03. The Weft Locknit:
Single Jersey Derivatives
04. The Mock Rib:
A single jersey structure with 2x6 repeat
which shows a false rib effect on surface
when alternate colored yarn is used.
It is actually an extension of Cross Miss
in course direction
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Single Jersey Derivatives
04. The Mock Rib:
Knitting Action:
Miss on first three needles and knit on
Course - 01
second three needles.
Knit on first three needles and miss on
Course – 02
second three needles.
Single Jersey Derivatives
04. The Mock Rib:
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Single Jersey Derivatives
04. The Mock Rib:
Single Jersey Derivatives
05. The Single Cross Tuck or Pique:
It is a knit-tuck single jersey derivative
which has a repeat size of 2x2 with
alternate loop type.
It is sometimes called as Pique or Single
Pique.
It is the base of some of the most
popular single jersey derivative like Polo
Pique and Lacoste.
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Single Jersey Derivatives
05. The Single Cross Tuck or Pique:
Knitting Action:
Knit on all odd needles but tuck on all
Course - 01
even needles.
Knit on all even needles and Tuck on all
Course – 02
odd needles.
Single Jersey Derivatives
05. The Single Cross Tuck or Pique:
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Single Jersey Derivatives
05. The Single Cross Tuck or Pique:
Single Jersey Derivatives
06. The Double Cross Tuck or Polo Pique:
One of the four most common and very
popular derivatives in single jersey is
Polo Pique.
This is an extension of Cross Tuck or
Single Pique which completes with a
4x2 repeat where each course of Cross
Tuck is doubled.
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Single Jersey Derivatives
06. The Double Cross Tuck or Polo Pique:
Knitting Action:
Course: Knit on all odd needles but tuck on all
01, 02 even needles.
Course: Tuck on all odd needles but knit on all
03, 04 even needles.
Single Jersey Derivatives
06. The Double Cross Tuck or Polo Pique:
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Single Jersey Derivatives
07. The Single Lacoste or Fred Perry:
Another most common derivative of
single jersey is Single Lacoste or Fred
Perry.
It is a 4x2 structure, an extension of
Cross Tuck or Single Pique where two
all-knit courses are inserted at even
position.
Single Jersey Derivatives
07. The Single Lacoste or Fred Perry:
Knitting Action:
Knit on all odd needles but tuck on all
Course - 01
even needles.
Course – 02 Knit on all needles
Tuck on all odd needles but knit on all
Course – 03
even needles.
Course – 04 Knit on all needles
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Single Jersey Derivatives
07. The Single Lacoste or Fred Perry:
Single Jersey Derivatives
08. The Double Lacoste:
It is a 6x2 structure with an extension of
Polo Pique where two all-knit courses
are inserted at 3rd and 6th position.
It is the most common structure for
sports garments.
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Single Jersey Derivatives
08. The Double Lacoste:
Knitting Action:
Knit on all odd needles but tuck on all
Course - 01
even needles.
Knit on all odd needles but tuck on all
Course – 02
even needles.
Course – 03 Knit on all needles
Tuck on all odd needles but knit on all
Course – 04
even needles.
Tuck on all odd needles but knit on all
Course – 05
even needles.
Course - 06 Knit on all needles
Single Jersey Derivatives
08. The Double Lacoste:
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Single Jersey Derivatives
09. The Crepe Design:
It is a tuck-knit or miss-knit derivative of
single jersey with a 4x4 repeat size
where 3rd and 4th courses are mirror
effect of 1st and 2nd courses.
In finer gauge and count fabric, this
structure shows a beautiful crepe effect
on the surface.
Single Jersey Derivatives
09. The Crepe Design:
Knitting Action:
Tuck on first needle and knit on other
Course - 01
needles in the repeat.
Tuck on second needle and knit on
Course – 02
other needles in the repeat.
Tuck on fourth needle and knit on
Course – 03
other needles in the repeat.
Tuck on third needle and knit on other
Course – 04
needles in the repeat.
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Single Jersey Derivatives
09. The Crepe Design:
Single Jersey Derivatives
10. The Twill Effect:
This structure mimics the twill effect of
woven fabric where a twill line appears
on the fabric surface.
It can be composed of knit-tuck, knit-
miss or knit-tuck-miss base and the
repeat size is like a x a.
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Single Jersey Derivatives
10. The Twill Effect:
Knitting Action (3x3):
Knit on first needle and Tuck or Miss
Course - 01
on adjacent two needle.
Knit on 2nd needle and Tuck or Miss on
Course – 02
1st and 3rd needle.
Knit on 3rd needle and Tuck or Miss on
Course – 03
1st and 2nd needle.
Single Jersey Derivatives
10. The Twill Effect:
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Single Jersey Derivatives
10. The Twill Effect:
Single Jersey Derivatives
? The Confusing Pique and Lacoste:
Pique and Lacoste, both are derived
from Cross Tuck structure.
Pique doesn’t have any all knit course
but Lacoste does have.
Cell appearance of both structure is
prominent on back side.
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Single Jersey Derivatives
? The Confusing Pique and Lacoste:
Single Jersey Derivatives
? Repeat Size, Feeder and Needle:
The needles in a knitting machine is always even number, sometimes divisible by 4
or even higher numbers.
Number of Feeders is also Even number.
This arrangement is for the reason that larger repeat can be produced in the
machine without breaking it.
However, it sometimes happens that number of needles or number of feeder is not
divisible by repeat course or wales.
Since each feeder produces a course, thereby, to avoid broken design in the fabric,
remnant feeders are kept inactive and remnants needles are sometimes adjusted
with slitting mark as edge.
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Single Jersey Derivatives
? Plain Derivative:
01. Cross Miss 02. Birds Eye 03. Weft Locknit 04. Mock Rib
05. Pique 06. Polo Pique 07. Single Lacoste 08. Double Lacoste
09. Crepe Effect 10. Twill Effect
Single Jersey Derivatives
? The Inactive Feeder:
A feeder is inactive when
Respective cam box has all miss
cams in all its track.
The Drive Selector ribbon is in the
middle causing free movement of
driving belt in the positive feed
system or
Simply the yarn in inactive feeder is
cut off.
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Single Jersey Derivatives
? The Slitting Mark:
Knit fabrics in circular knitting machine
are produced in tubular form. For open
width finishing line, this tube needs to
be slitted open.
A slitting machine is used in between
hydroextractor and dryer. The machine
finds out a line of absent needle in the
fabric automatically and slits the fabric
along that line.
Therefore, for open width finishing line,
one or two needles are taken off
intentionally from the knitting machine
for generating slitting mark.
Single Jersey Derivatives
? Assignment (5 Marks):
Find out the Cam setup and Needle
arrangement for this 10 derivatives of
Single Jersey.
Odd ID: Machine rotates clock direction
Even ID: Machine rotates anti-clock
direction
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