Portable
Knock-Down
Workbench
[Link] © 2024 Taylor Toolworks Doc. Revision 20240315
Introduction
This Portable Knock-Down Workbench is the perfect workshop accessory for anyone seeking an
economical and easy-to-build workbench with all the work holding capabilities of a much larger
bench. Constructed as a torsion box, it requires just a 1/2 sheet of plywood, a piece of 1-½” stock for
a vise chop, and a hardware kit that includes everything needed to make the twin-screw vise. It is
simple and quick to construct and can be built in a few afternoons using basic woodworking tools.
Highly portable, it can be quickly attached to numerous surfaces via a few track clamps and easily
stowed away when not in use. The dog holes on the top and sides, plane stops, and twin- screw vise
give this bench all the workholding capacities of any traditional bench. The bench alone is 4” thick,
with the possibility of adding additional height risers to bring your work to a more comfortable and
ergonomic height.
Many Twin Screw Moxon Vise installations have both screws attached to the rear jaw, held secure by
four nuts, with two mortised in the rear jaw ush with the front surface. This design leaves both
screws protruding from the front jaw, potentially interfering with the user. Our improved Moxon Vise
Hardware Kit addresses this issue by embedding threads in the rear jaw, allowing both rods to pass
through the back jaw as the front jaw is opened and closed, leaving the front of the vise
unobstructed. Additionally, the screws ride in steel bushings, reducing friction.
The improved Moxon Vise Hardware kit includes 3/4-10 threaded rods, nuts, washers, bushings, and
cast knobs—everything needed (excluding wood) to create a fully functional Moxon Twin Screw Vise.
The plan provides measured drawings and comprehensive step-by-step instructions for the
construction process, but customization options abound. You can tailor it to your preferred width,
height, and wood choice, offering a multitude of possibilities for individualization. The details are left
for you to decide.
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Cut list & Supplies
Make sure to read through this build guide BEFORE cutting any wood. Familiarize
yourself with the tools, techniques, and your approach to building this project.
Item Quantity Sizes needed Material
Top 1 per workbench 12” x 36” 3/4” plywood
End Rail Blanks 4 per workbench 4” X 11” 3/4” plywood
Rear Long Rail 1 per workbench 3 1/4” x 36” 3/4” plywood
Front Long Rail 1 per workbench 4” x 36” 3/4” plywood
Front Rail Support 1 per workbench 4” x 20” 3/4” plywood
Square Nut Brackets 2 per workbench 2 1/2” x 2 1/2” 1 1/2” Hardwood
Vise Jaw 1 per workbench 4” x 20 1/2” 1 1/2” Hardwood
Plane Stops 2 per workbench 2 5/6” x 10 1/2” 3/4” Hardwood
Risers 2 per workbench-Optional 7” x your choice 3/4” plywood
Riser Support Feet 2 per workbench-Optional 2” x 1 1/2” 1 1/2” Hardwood
Stretcher 1 per workbench-Optional 4 3/4” x 34”-Approx. 3/4” plywood
2 1/2” carriage bolts 8
¼-20 Knurled Knobs 4
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You will need about a half sheet of 3/4” plywood, about 2 feet of a 2x6, and 2 feet of a
1x4.
The wood you choose for the Hardwood is up to you. The Jaw and Plane Stops
should to be smooth and perfectly at.
All of the Workbench hardware can be purchased from Taylor Toolworks:
Twin Screw Vise Hardware Kit (10” long x ¾” diameter threaded rod, square nuts,
washers, cast knobs and bushings)
Blackened Steel ¼-20 Knurled Knobs
Vertical Workbench Clamps
Adjustable Bench Dogs
Brass Bench Dogs
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Workbench Top
Cut one piece 12” x 36” of 3/4” plywood
for the Top.
Mark locations of the bench dog holes
3” from each long side, and 4” apart as
shown.
Drill the bench dog holes with a 3/4”
forstner bit.
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Workbench End Rails
Since 3/4” plywood is not exactly 3/4” thick,
we need to do some precise measuring.
Measure the total thickness of two
pieces of the 3/4” plywood you are using.
Note this here:
Measurement #1: ________
Subtract this measurement from 12”
and note that here:
Measurement #2: ________
Make two of these:
Cut two pieces 4” x 11” of 3/4” plywood.
Glue two pieces together to form a
doubled thick End Rail.
Once glue dries, trim these to their nal
dimensions of 3 1/4” x Measurement #2
x2 above.
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Workbench End Rails (continued)
On the front (inside) face of both End
Rails, drill the following holes with forstner
bits and using a drill press or a drill guide.
These holes need to be perpendicular
and straight.
Mark a vertical line exactly in the center
of the End Rails.
x2 For the Plane Stop mounting holes,
measure down 3/4” from the top edge
and 4” to the left and right of the center
line. Drill two 5/8” holes about 3/16” deep.
In the dead center of these 5/8” holes,
drill 1/4” holes all the way through.
For the track saw clamp holes, mark a
horizontal line 3/4” from the bottom
edge. On this line, mark 3/4” from each
x2 end, and at the center line. Drill 1/2”
holes at these three locations.
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Workbench End Rails (continued)
Flip the End Rails over and drill these
additional holes in both:
Mark a vertical line exactly in the center
of the End Rails.
For the Riser mounting holes, measure
down 1 1/4” from the top edge and 3 ” to
the left and right of the center line.
x2 Drill two 5/8” holes about 3/16” deep.
In the dead center of these 5/8” holes,
drill 1/4” holes all the way through.
The two completed End Rails should look
like what is shown here.
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Workbench Rear Rail
Cut one piece 3 1/4” x 36” of 3/4” plywood
for the Rear Rail.
Note: The lefthand and righthand
measurements are exactly the same.
Mark locations of the bench dog holes
1 1/4” from the top edge, starting 3” from
each end, and 5” apart as shown.
Drill the seven bench dog holes with a
3/4” forstner bit.
Mark locations of the track saw clamp
holes 3/4” from the bottom edge, starting
2” from each end, and 8” apart as
shown.
Drill the ve track saw clamp holes with
a 1/2” brad-point bit.
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Workbench Front Rail
Cut one piece 4” x 36” of 3/4” plywood
for the Front Rail.
Cut one piece 4” x 20” of 3/4” plywood
for the Front Rail Support.
Using one of the End Rails as a spacer,
set it on top of the Front Rail, ush with
one end.
Glue the Front Rail Support to the Front
Rail as shown. Make sure not to glue
the End Rail to these pieces.
Once the glue has dried completely, trim
the Front Rail assembly to its nal width
of 3 1/4”.
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Workbench Front Rail (continued)
Flip The Front Rail over so the Front Rail
Support is on the bottom. Drill all holes
with forstner bits using a drill press or a
drill guide. These holes need to be
perpendicular and straight.
On the left end of the Front Rail, mark
and drill 1” holes for the vise threaded
rods 1 1/4” from the top edge and 2 3/4”
and 19 1/4“ from the left end.
On the right of the Front Rail, mark and
drill 3/4” holes for the bench dogs
1 1/4” from the top edge and 3” and 10”
from the right end.
Also on the right of the Front Rail, mark
and drill 1/2” holes for the track saw
clamps 3/4” from the bottom edge and 2”
and 14” from the right end.
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Workbench Front Rail (continued)
Drive the 1” Steel Bushings into the 1”
holes you drilled in Front Rail. Use a
rubber or dead blow mallet to prevent
damage to the bushings.
Make sure the end of the Steel
Bushings are ush or slightly below the
surface of the Front Rail.
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Square Nut Brackets
Cut two pieces 2 1/2” x 2 1/2” and 1 1/8”
thick from the hardwood of choice for
the Square Nut Brackets.
x2
Cut a 1 1/4” groove, 11/16” deep in the
center of these pieces. Pay attention to
the grain direction as shown.
x2
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Square Nut Brackets (continued)
On the opposite side of the Square Nut
Brackets, drill four small holes near the
corners with countersinks to allow the
screw heads to sit ush with the
surface.
Drill a 13/16” hole directly in the center of
each of the Square Nut Brackets. Do
x2 not chamfer this hole.
From the Hardware Kit, screw the
Square Nuts onto the Threaded Bars
about 1 1/2” from one end.
Place the Front Rail, face down, and
place the Threaded bars into both
bushings in the Front Rail Support.
x2
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Square Nut Brackets (continued)
Put a small bead of glue on the underside
of both sides of the Square Nut Brackets
as shown.
Carefully place the Square Nut Brackets
over the Threaded Rods and Square Nuts
as shown. Center the hole in the brackets
over the Threaded Rods to ensure the
Threaded Rods will not rub against the
x2 inside of the hole when turned. Flush the
brackets to the edges of the Front Rail
Support. Make sure the Square Nuts are
free to move just a tiny bit within the slots.
Apply moderate downward pressure on
the bracket for a few seconds until it is
held in place by suction and then let dry
for at least two hours. After the glue has
dried, drive four 2” screws through the
Square Nut Brackets into the back side of
x2 the Front Rail Support.
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Assemble the Workbench
Gather all of the parts you’ve made so
far. This is how they will be assembled
to make the Workbench top. Take your
time here laying out the glue up as it
would be very easy to get parts lined up
wrong and then glue them up in an
incorrect orientation. All the track saw
clamp holes should be facing the same
direction.
Take one of the 2 1/2” carriage bolts and
drive into this hole on the inside face of
one of the End Rails.
This is done now because when you
attach this piece to the Front Rail, the
Square Nut Bracket will block this hole
and make putting this bolt in place
impossible after assembly.
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Assemble the Workbench (continued)
Glue all the parts together as shown.
The End rails go on the inside of the
Front and Rear Rails.
Make sure the Outside face of the End
Rails is perfectly ush with the ends of the
rails.
Also make sure the assembled frame is
square by measuring corner to corner.
Clamp the pieces together and use brad
nails and/or screws to fasten everything
together.
Once the glue for the Frame has dried,
add the top with glue and brads and/or
countersunk screws.
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Vise Jaw
Cut one piece 4 ” x 20 1/2” of 1 1/2” thick
hardwood for the Vise Jaw.
Make marks to drill two overlapping 3/4”
holes, 3/8” apart on both ends of the
Vise Jaw: the rst is 1 13/16” and the
second is 2 3/16” from each end, both 2”
from the top as shown here.
Using a drill press, drill two 3/4” holes at
these marks.
x2
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Vise Jaw (continued)
Chisel or le away the intersection of
the two 3/4” holes smooth to remove the
“widow’s peak” as shown.
Note: This will create elongated slots that
will allow the Vise Jaw to pivot and clamp
tapered parts.
Using a router with a 1/2” round over bit,
create a decorative edge to the Vise
Jaw. If you do not have a router or
round over bit, you can chamfer the
ends of the View Jaw on the table saw.
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Plane Stops
Cut two pieces 2 5/8” x 10 1/2” of 3/4”
thick hardwood for the Plane Stops.
x2
Make marks to drill two 5/16” holes at
both ends of the Plane Stops at 1 1/4”
from the end and 1 7/16” from top edge
as shown here.
x2
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Plane Stops (continued)
Using a tablesaw, bandsaw or a jigsaw,
extend the 5/16” holes into slots down to
the bottom edge of the Plane Stops.
Make sure these slots are straight and
parallel to the ends of the Plane Stops.
x2
Using a router with a small 1/4” or 5/16”
round over bit, create a decorative edge
to the Plane Stops. If you do not have a
router or round over bit, you can
chamfer the ends on the table saw.
x2
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Risers
Cut two pieces 7” x 10” of 3/4” plywood
for the Riser Legs.
Also cut two pieces 12” x 2” of 1 1/2”
thick hardwood for the Riser Feet.
Note: The 10” measurement for the Riser
Legs can be adjusted to your needs and
can be anything from about 6” to 12”.
x2
Mark a horizontal line exactly in the
center of the Riser Legs.
For the Riser mounting holes, measure
over 2” from the left edge and 3” above
and below the center line.
Drill two 5/16” holes at these two
locations.
x2
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Risers (continued)
Using a router or dado stack in your
table saw, cut a 3/4” dado down the
exact center of both of the Riser Legs
x2 .
Using a router with a 1/2” round over bit,
create a decorative edge on the Riser
Feet. If you do not have a router or
round over bit, you can chamfer the
ends using the table saw.
x2
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Risers (continued)
With glue and brad nails and/or screws,
attach the Riser Legs to the Riser Feet
as shown. Make sure the Riser Legs
are centered on the Riser Feet.
x2
Attach the Risers to the Workbench
using the 2 1/2” carriage bolts, driven
through the End Rails and the 5/16”
holes in the Riser Legs. Secure with
nuts and washers.
Measure the distance between the
dados in the two Risers to get a
measurement for a Stretcher to help
stabilize the Workbench.
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Risers (continued)
Cut one piece of 3/4” plywood that is
4 3/4” wide and a little longer than the
measurement you took in the previous
step for the Riser Stretcher.
Test t the Stretcher between the Riser
Legs and trim it until it ts snug, but not
too tight.
You will need to drill 1” holes in the
Stretcher to allow the threaded rods to
pass through.
Place the square nuts into the Square
Nut Brackets, and screw the threaded
rods in enough to touch the Stretcher.
Mark the locations and then drill the 1”
holes in those locations on the
Stretcher.
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Final Assembly
Place the Vise Jaw onto the threaded
rods as shown.
Place the Washers onto the threaded
rods.
Thread the Knobs from the Hardware
Kit onto the end of the threaded rods.
Use permanent thread locker to keep
the knobs from coming off.
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Final Assembly (continued)
You will be attaching the Plane Stops to
both ends of the Workbench.
Drive the three remaining carriage bolts
through the End Rails.
Place the Plane Stops onto the carriage
bolts as shown.
Trim the Plane Stops so they are just
below the surface of the top when fully
lowered.
Thread the 1/4-20 knurled knobs onto the
ends of the carriage bolts.
Loosen and tighten these knobs to raise
and lower the Plane Stops on the
Workbench.
Countersink and add 1 1/2” long screws 1/2”
below the bottom of the End Rails to
secure both ends of the Stretcher in place.
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Finished!
And with that, you are nished!
If you have any questions, please reach out via email at support@[Link]
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[Link] © 2024 Taylor Toolworks Doc. Revision 20240315