BICYCLE OWNER’S GUIDE &

ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS

PLEASE READ CAREFULLY BEFORE RIDING

 Contents 21 Point Pre-Delivery Inspection
3. Know Your Bike Each item should be ticked by the mechanic undertaking the Pre-Delivery Inspection (PDI) and signed at the end to
3. Quick Assembly Guide certify that the cycle is being handed over in first class condition. All riders, including Mail Order customers, are urged
8. Personal Safety
to make similar periodic safety checks for themselves, or have them done by a retailer, using this list as a guide.
11. Riding With Juniors
Fit all of the loose equipment supplied with the bike and Lubricate chain and suggest appropriate lubricant
12. Steering, headsets 1 tighten pedals, toe clips and straps ✓ 12 to customer, depending on likely use. ✓
and Handlebars
Adjust wheel quick releases and position levers correctly.
14. Pedals Suspension bikes – forks only: sit customer on saddle
2 Tighten wheel nuts, where fitted, and explain the importance ✓ 13 and demonstrate how to adjust the springs where applicable. ✓
15. Quick Release Wheels of correct chain tension where necessary

16. Saddle Adjustment

18. Brakes
3 Spin wheels to check trueness, then test tyre pressures. ✓ Full suspension bikes: sit customer on saddle and
demonstrate how to adjust the rear suspension, and
25. Cranks 14 then the front. Check that the bike is level when the ✓
Check that the saddle height and fore and aft adjustment whole weight of the customer is placed on the saddle.
26. Gears 4 are correctly matched to the customer. ✓
32. Specialist Bikes
Check that any extra-cost equipment or any accessories
34. BMX Check handlebar height and handlebar angle are correctly
5 matched to the customer. ✓ 15 mounted on the bike before purchase are correctly fitted ✓
36. Race/Touring/carbon and safe. Explain how to use them to the customer.
frames & forks
Make sure that the seat post and handlebar stem are Hub gear bikes: explain to customer how to disconnect
38. Maintenance 6 not extended further than the safety limit line. ✓ 16 gear cable and remove back wheel. ✓
44. Clothing &
BMX bikes: test that steering can be rotated through
Accessories Tighten saddle clip, saddle adjustment bolt, handlebar
7 stem fixing, handlebar clamp bolt and bar ends. ✓ 17 360° without getting the brake cables caught up
(gyro models only).
✓
Kid’s bikes: Sit rider on bike and check that the rider can place
Test brakes and check pad position, adjusting as required.
both feet flat on the ground. Adjust brake lever reach to suit
Mechanic’s signature: 8 Check front brake is connected to right hand lever.
Check that customer can reach the brake lever comfortably.
✓ 18 individual customer. Explain to parents and children that the ✓
use of garage air lines is dangerous.
.......................................................................... Demonstrate effectiveness of braking system to customer
Frame Numbers (To be recorded by PDI mechanic).
9 and explain the danger of pitch-over, especially if the brakes
are allowed to lock.
✓ 19 See page 6 for location. ✓
Customer’s signature:
Explain the guarantee and servicing arrangements to the
..........................................................................
10 Check that the gears change cleanly and adjust as necessary. ✓ 20 customer and ensure that he or she is happy with everything
before signing off below.
✓
Show customer how to change gear and explain that low
11 gears should be used for climbing hills, middle gears for
the flat and high gears for downhill.
✓ 21 Check chainwheel and crank bolt torque is 42-45Nm. ✓
Date:................................................................

2
IMPORTANT - know your bike QUICK ASSEMBLY GUIDE
Check that you use your bike correctly. IMPORTANT
This cycle
There are different European Standards for Please read these instructions carefully.
bicycles depending on how the bicycle is conforms to
BS:EN14766 For more detailed information and tips, including
intended to be used.
a comprehensive guide to care and maintenance we
You can check the table below what type of recommend you read the owners guide in detail.
riding your bicycle has been designed for.
This bike is fully adjusted and checked over at the factory. The handlebars
Note: To find the correct BS:EN may be removed or assembled in the bike and turned through 90
standard for your bicycle please degrees. the pedals removed and in some cases the front wheel will
refer to the label on the frame have been removed too. It is a relatively simple operation to re-assemble
these parts, however if you do not feel competent to do this you should
ask someone who is, as it is important that these simple tasks are done
Type of use for Permissible total correctly for the integral safety of the bike. If in doubt consult a qualified
which bike is weight of rider + mechanic or cycle dealer.
designed luggage

Riding on roads and

Unpacking
BS: EN 14764 Please remove all packaging very carefully, especially if using a knife or
tracks. Not for off 120 Kg (19 stone)
Trekking Bikes sharp blade. Take care not to scratch any of the parts of the bike or slash
road or rough terrain
the tyres. We suggest that you keep hold of the carton in case you need to
Off road, rough return the bike.
BS: EN 14766
terrain, cycle tracks 120 Kg (19 stone)
Mountain Bikes
or road SUPPLIED WITH YOUR BIKE*
High Speed amateur • Allen key (s)
BS: EN 14781 use on public roads • Multi-spanner
120 Kg (19 stone)
Racing Bikes Not for off road or • Pedals
rough terrain.
• Reflectors
On road, cycletracks, *Where applicable
BS: EN 16054 and/or ramps. Not
120 Kg (19 stone)
BMX Bikes for use in santioned
competition events
FOR DETAILED ADJUSTMENT AND OTHER
INFORMATION PLEASE REFER TO THE
Important: Failure to use your bike in accordance with the
above recommendations could result in serious injury
SPECIFIC SECTIONS IN THIS GUIDE

3
 Preparing your bike for assembly

4
4

5 7
5
10 11
11
13 9
8
12 2
6
6 14 14
2
3 1 12 3 1

FRAME No. FRAME No.

1. Chain wheel set 8. Seat tube

2.  Front gear mechanism
3.  Rear gear mechanism
9. Down tube
10.  Suspension fork
900 Right hand
chainwheel
4. Handlebar stem 11. V-style brake side Safety Points
5. Seat post 12. Disc brake This sign is used in this booklet, wherever a
particular topic is safety sensitive or needs extra
6. Multiple sprockets 13. Rear suspension unit care. Some of these items are specified in the British
7. Top tube 14. Chain wheel set Standard covering bicycles but many others are
axle bolt recommendations.

4
Attaching the handlebars Saddle
There are two types of handlebar attachment in general use, the quill stem type (single bolt) and the
threadless or A-Head type (two bolts). In addition, some BMX bikes have a different arrangement.
adjustment
Stem Type (Single Bolt) Threadless Type (3 Bolts) BMX Type

To adjust the saddle height, loosen the

clamp bolt using an Allen key, spanner
or the quick release lever and adjust the

B
seat post to the required height. Adjust
the height of the saddle so that when
cycling along, your leg will be slightly
bent with the pedal at its lowest point.

1 Remove the plastic cap (if present) 1 Using an allen key, loosen the 1 Loosen top nut, turn the handlebar
from the top of the handlebar stem 2 side bolts (A) and turn the and set at 90 degrees to the front Important:
cap and loosen the bolt using the handlebar through 90 degrees. wheel. When altering the
6mm allen key. height of the saddle,
2 Adjust the tension of the headset by 2 Re-tighten the nut fully so there
you must not pull
2 Turn the handlebar and set at turning bolt B if necessary but first is no movement.
the seat post out
90 degrees to the front wheel. release the side bolts, adjust then
further than the
Set at the required height and re-tighten. See page 13.
limit mark.
re-tighten the bolt.
Important: Do not position the
stem outside the limit mark.

5
 Front Wheel
A. Models with Re-linking the brake:
Unhooking the
brake pipe Nutted Axle 1 Squeeze the brake arms inward
in the direction of the arrows.
Locate the wheel axle in the fork slots
and ensure that the wheel is central 2 Locate the ferrule on the brake
before fully tightening the wheel nuts. pipe in the cut out of the bracket.
3 Apply the right-hand brake lever
to check for smooth efficient
operation of the brake.

B. Models with Quick 1 Take off the nut and one of the Models with
springs and feed the skewer (the
Release (Q/R) other spring must be kept under the Disc Brakes
head of the lever body) through the
It is better if the bike is upside down
wheel hub. With the spring in place
when fitting a disc brake wheel.
1
under the head of the nut, loosely
screw the nut on to the skewer. Disc brakes use 2 pads and these are
usually kept in place with packing
2 Insert the wheel into the forks
pieces during transit. Remove the
ensuring that the wheel is central.
In order to fit the front wheel it will be packaging from between the disc
Open and close the QR lever with
necessary to unhook the brake pipe pads making sure that the pads are
one hand while gradually tightening
ferrule from the brake arm bracket. not displaced.
the adjusting nut with the other
There are two ways of securing the until you feel resistance in the lever Fit the wheel in place with the rotor
front wheel, (A) Nutted Axle and (B) when the lever is pointing away plate between the 2 pads.
Quick Release arrangement. from the hub. Now close the QR by Follow previous instructions for
pushing as hard as you can with the tightening quick release and wheel
palm of your hand against the side nuts.
IMPORTANT 2 of the lever marked ‘close’ until the
lever is in the position shown in the
pictures. When closed, the Q/R lever
CHECK THE BRAKES ARE
must sit alongside the fork blade. This
CORRECTLY LINKED
minimises the chances of it getting
RH LEVER > FRONT BRAKE released accidentally.
LH LEVER > REAR BRAKE
Important: Ensure the nuts and
quick release are fully tightened.

6
Pedals reflectors
1 Identify left and right pedals For safety reasons it is very important that these are fitted correctly as the photograph
by the letter R & L stamped on below. Depending on the type supplied, the front reflector may be fitted to the
the end of the thread. handlebar or fork and the rear fitted to the seat post or rear bridge (see photos below).
2 Identify left and right cranks.
Tighten pedal by hand into the
correct crank. Note the correct
rotation.
3 Tighten the pedals by hand, then
using a spanner fully tighten in
the correct rotation.

Remember
• Correct pedal and crank
• Correct tightening rotation
• Do not cross-thread
• Always keep pedals tight
• Check and retighten regularly

Important: Be safe!
Before you ride check the following:
1 Tyres are inflated to the recommended pressure.
2 Brakes are functioning properly.
3 Axle nuts or quick release levers are tightened.
4 Handlebar bolt(s) is tightened.
5 Seat bolt is tightened.

Keep your reflectors clean -

CYCLISTS MUST BE SEEN .
THE REFLECTORS FITTED TO YOUR NEW BIKE ARE A LEGAL REQUIREMENT,
Ensure pedal is tight up against
SUPPLIED FOR YOUR SAFETY. DON’T BE TEMPTED TO REMOVE THEM.
the crank when fully tightened

7
 Front mudguard Personal Safety
(where applicable)
Helmets
Take out the screws in the fork ends. Using these screws, loosely fit There’s no doubt that a certain amount
the stays to the fork ends. Fit the mudguard bracket behind the fork. of equipment can improve cycling safety,
Ensure all screws are tightened. particularly at night. On the other hand,
however much equipment you have,
there’s no substitute for cycling skills - see
page 10 - and a full awareness of other
traffic. When you buy a cycle helmet, it’s Once a helmet has been in an
important to check that it’s accident, it‑must be replaced.
manufactured to a proper standard. The shell may have been weakened
The minimum legal requirement for and the liner will be less able to
any helmet sold in the UK and the rest absorb shocks. Remember that some
of Europe is that they are CE certified manufacturers offer free replacement
and conform to the EN1078 European of crash-damaged helmets.
Standard.

Lights
It is a legal requirement to fit front and
rear lights. The front must emit White
Light and the rear Red. Check and clean
them regularly to ensure they are fully
functional.
For full information on lighting
regulations refer to the following
website [Link]/cyclists-
library/regulations/lighting-regulations

Fitting for suspension forks.

8
 LED rear
lights

When buying a helmet, try out several Once you’ve got a good fit, adjust To get a good fit, helmets have either
different styles and different sizes within the straps carefully, making sure that an exterior adjuster, simple pads or
each style as well. Select one that feels the adjusters sit well below the ears inflatable side pieces. Once adjusted,
comfortable and secure, that fits well and don’t get twisted. Many helmets hold the helmet upside down with
down on your forehead and which has also have an adjustable nape strap the straps out of the way to make it
straps that lie well away from your ears. at the back of the helmet. Follow easier to put on. Follow manufacturers’
manufacturers’ instructions. instructions.

LED bike lights sometimes have a

clip option so you can attach them to
your clothing. There is also a switch to
select a steady or a flashing light.

Most LED lights have a close-fitting

plastic case. To fit new batteries,
find the notch in the case
Check frequently that your lights Good lighting should be backed up by You can also fit reflective material to the and prise the two halves
are as bright as they should be. The other visibility aids. If a bright yellow bike itself. Large areas are best but even apart with a screwdriver.
batteries in particular need changing reflective jersey is too much for you, small strips make you more visible. It’ll There is no bulb as such.
frequently, so keep spares at home wear a reflective belt, preferably one stick better if you clean any grease or oil When putting the case
and at work. When replacing bulbs, that goes round waist and shoulders. off the frame before fitting. Try to blend back together, take care
especially halogen ones, don’t touch They’re very effective at letting the reflective areas in with the shape of to avoid damaging or
the glass at all. motorists know you’re on the road. the bike. moving the rubber seal.

9
 Riding Advice
WARNING: There is a risk of injury to the
rider and to others if all necessary repairs
Anticipation Riding In The Dark Personal Music Players/
and adjustments are not made. Take every The most important general riding
skills you need to develop are keeping
Again, take extra care in the dark.
Make sure your signals are in good
Headphones
precaution to ensure safe riding. We recommend that YOU DO NOT
track of what other road users are doing time, so motorists are aware of
LISTEN to such devices while riding.
Before Riding and working out what they are going your intentions.
They distract your attention from the
to do next. That way you can position Make sure you can see and be seen -
Carry out the checks listed on page 2 traffic around you and prevent you
yourself safely on the road and let them front and rear lights, a rear reflector,
and also refer to ‘Know your bike’ section from hearing approaching danger.
know, by your road position, what you pedal and wheel reflectors are legal
on page 3 so that you understand the
type of use your bike is designed for. If
are going to do next. Do not follow too
closely behind other road vehicles or
requirements. They should conform After Your First
you have any problems refer them to to British Standard BS 6102.
your Retailer at once.
other cyclists and avoid riding up the
Carry spare bulbs and batteries if
Few Rides
inside of traffic queues. Make use of All the nuts and bolts on your bicycle
Make sure you are able to use your gears needed. Light coloured and reflective
“cycle lanes” where they are provided. bed-down in the first few weeks of
and brakes effectively and that you clothing will help you to be seen -
Always concentrate and keep a good use, we recommend you regularly
can handle your bicycle safely in traffic. ask to see the range stocked by your
grip on the handlebars at all time in check your bike as per the maintenance
To‑familiarise yourself with the many Retailer.
case you suddenly need to steer out of section on page 38.
rules of the road, we recommend you harms way.
obtain a current copy of the Highway
Riding In Bad Weather
SAFE BRAKING DISTANCES
Code, available from Post Offices and
most good bookshops. Always take extra care when the weather
Parents are urged not to let their is wet, foggy, windy or icy. Wear warm
children onto busy roads until they are waterproof clothing - in bright, reflective Bicycle travelling at approx 15 mph
experienced cyclists. We recommend colours if possible. Ride slowly and
a training course such as Royal Society brake early, as stopping distances can
for the Prevention of Accidents (ROSPA) be doubled or trebled. Sudden braking IN DRY WEATHER
National Cycling Proficiency Scheme could lead to skidding on hazards such THINKING DISTANCE STOPPING DISTANCE STOP
(for‑children of nine and above) or the as mud, gravel, snow, etc. When it’s like 4.5m 5.5m
in-school version ‘Cycleway’ for young that don’t just rely on hearing other
children. traffic because snow, wind and fog can
Indeed, all new or inexperienced cyclists carry away the sound of approaching
are strongly recommended to take a vehicles. When conditions are really IN WET WEATHER
training course in cycling. Details may be bad or an area is particularly congested THINKING DISTANCE STOPPING DISTANCE STOP
obtained from schools, council offices or be prepared to walk your bike around 4.5m 11.5m
Police stations. roundabouts and difficult right turns.

10
Riding with Juniors When the riding
position, is set
correctly, the rider
should not have
Kid’s bikes with 20 and 24 inch wheels Don’t ride too close to the children, to stretch for the
are usually smaller versions of adult however, because you’ll have to keep pedals at all. Make
bikes. So for most maintenance jobs, go braking and there’s a danger of you sure also that they
to the front part of this booklet. As for crashing into one of them if they stop know how to use
the riding position, they should be set unexpectedly. the gears and
up like an adult bike, with the ball of the brakes. And keep
foot just reaching the ground when the Child Seats Check that the rider can
reminding them
rider is sitting in the saddle. However, easily get off the saddle
Child seats are now that the gears will
when a child is just starting to ride, it and place their feet
designed along the get bent if the bike
might be a good idea to position the on the ground. There
lines of car seats, is dropped on the
saddle a little lower than usual to boost should also be sufficient
with straps to hold pavement.
their confidence. clearance over the top
the youngster in
tube when doing this.
Some smaller bikes are very different place and a proper
from adult machines. The chainset is place for the feet. Suggested add-ons
particularly different because both the The seat is mounted onto the bike itself
cranks and the axle are all made in one with a sturdy metal clamp and frame,
piece. And this is only made possible by which allows you to remove the baby
using a very different type of bottom seat with one movement. You can even
bracket. For work on the steering buy a second clamp so that the seat can
bearings, bottom bracket or chainset, be transferred from bike to bike.
see your retailer. Suits children from 6 months onwards
Inevitably, kid’s bikes take a battering, until they reach 48 pounds (22 kg) in
being thrown down or dropped onto weight.
Children should wear
the pavement and suffering general Take care when using a child seat to a cycling helmet at
neglect. Replacement is the only make sure your childs hands and feet all times when riding
solution when the pedals break up but cannot be trapped by any any moving their bike. A good fit is
bent cranks can usually be straightened. parts of the cycle such as saddle springs, vital and so is a design
When you’re out with the children, wheel spokes and brakes. that appeals to the
insist that they ride in front of you so IMPORTANT: Child seats are not designed individual. That way
that you can see and control everything for use with suspension bikes. Mounting they’ll be much more
that’s happening. Don’t shout continual clamps should be located on the frame likely to wear a helmet,
instructions as that will only confuse seat tube and must not be fitted on the without having to be
and annoy the kids. Be ready to jump seat post. encouraged.
off your bike and intervene if it ever
becomes necessary.

11
 Steering, headsets and handlebars

When you’ve got the saddle height and position right, you can fine tune your riding
position by altering the angle of the handlebars. On some bikes, you can also adjust
Steering play - Steering play -
the height of the handlebars. Don’t forget that altering the angle of an adjustable Too loose Too Tight
stem also alters the height of the handlebars.
To check the steering bearings, pull While there should be no play in the
Your back should be roughly 45° to the ground but this is not a hard and fast rule. It’s the front brake on and wrap your steering there should be no stiffness
also a good thing to have a slight bend at the elbow to help absorb road shocks. In fingers round the top steering bearing. either. This can be checked by lifting the
fact, most mountain bikes are designed to provide the correct back angle and arm Then try to push the bike gently front of the bike so that the wheel is off
reach for the majority of riders. If you have a problem getting comfortable, consult backwards and forwards, keeping the the ground and turning the handlebar
your retailer about altering the handlebar stem length, the height of the handlebars back wheel on the ground. If you can with a finger. The wheel should move
or even fitting different ones. Always check the alignment of the handlebar stem with feel of hear any movement the headset smoothly right and left without sticking.
the front wheel, if you move anything else. needs to be tightened. For adjustment of steering bearings see
If there’s any free play in the steering bearings, you’ll get brake judder, judder over the appropriate section on the next page.
bumps and steering wobble as well. Tight steering may also be a problem. These are
potentially dangerous so if you don’t feel confident about making the adjustment,
take the bike to your retailer.

As part of the 21 point Safety Check, make sure the stem clamp
bolts and the handlebar clamp bolts are all tight enough to
prevent the handlebars moving.

12
Threadless headset adjustment Threaded headset adjustment

A B
C
D

Start by loosening the stem clamp bolts (A) just enough to allow the stem to turn First undo the top head locknut (C) using a suitable spanner. To correct loose steering
when pushed but not to swing freely. If the steering is too loose adjust the bearings turn the screwed race clockwise slightly until there is no play. To relieve tight steering,
by tightening the top screw (B) until you can no longer feel any movement. To adjust turn the screwed race (D) anti-clockwise a little. Once adjusted re-tighten the top
for tight steering undo the top bolt slightly until the steering moves freely. You may head locknut and test the steering. You may need to repeat the above procedure until
need to repeat the above process until the adjustment is correct. the adjustment is correct.

Height Limit Mark

Some models are fitted with a continental design of stem. Here, you remove the rubber bung at
the top to reveal a socket-headed bolt, then undo the bolt a few turns. Once it’s loose, raise or
lower the handlebars by holding the front wheel between your legs and twisting the handlebars
from side to side. Don’t pull it out any further than the limit mark shown by the arrow in the
picture. Next, re-tighten the bolt and fit the rubber bung. Then, hold the wheel between your
legs and check that the handlebars won’t twist in the frame. Check also that the handlebar clamp
is tight. Repeat both these final checks during the 21 point Safety Check

13
 Checking Pedals

Don’t underestimate the importance

of the pedals. If they’re not tight
enough, if the toe clips are loose, if the 1 2 3
toe straps are missing or if the pedals
don’t turn smoothly, it’s only too easy
to lose control.
ANY PROBLEMS ALONG THE WAY?
CONSULT YOUR RETAILER.

If the pedals haven’t been fitted or You fit the R pedal onto the crank by Toe clips are fitted to prevent your foot
you’ve removed them when storing turning the spindle clockwise. But sliding off the pedal as well as to hold it
the bike, check which side they fit on. when fitting the L pedal, you turn it in the correct position. That makes them
One pedal is marked L for the left hand anti-clockwise. To finish the job off or a safety device as well as a vital part of
crank and the other R for the right hand as part of your regular safety check, efficient cycling. It’ll take practice before
crank. Don’t try to fit them the wrong tighten both pedals with an open-ended you can slip into them automatically.
way round. spanner.

14
Quick Release Wheels Wheel
Before operating the quick release, open up the distance between the brake pads so that the tyre doesn’t get stuck between them.
To do this on V-style brakes, press the brake pads onto the rim with one hand while you pull the metal cable pipe away from the
centring
brake arm with the other. With other cantilevers, you also squeeze the brake pads together but then you slip the end of the short
cable out of the brake arm.
If you’re not sure that you’ve refitted the wheels correctly, or wonder if you’ve got them tight enough, consult your retailer.

1 2 3

To remove the wheels, pull the quick To refit, insert the axle into the forks When closed, the quick release lever
release lever, giving the tyre a bang with or the rear of the frame. Then use your must sit alongside the fork blade at the
your palm to encourage it to drop right thumbs to centre the wheel rim. Finally, front and along the chainstay at the When refitting wheels, make sure you
out. If the wheel doesn’t drop out easily, use the palm of your hand to press the back. This minimises the chances of it centralise them in the frame. With
undo the nut a few turns to release it quick release lever as close as possible getting released accidentally. The Q/R the front wheel, the wheel rim must
from the safety recess in the fork end. to the frame or the forks. lever is usually marked open and closed. be an equal distance from the top
of each fork blade. At the back, the
rim must be an equal distance from
both chainstays. If you hear a rubbing
Torque settings noise after refitting the wheel, check
again to see if you’ve centred the
We recommend the use of a torque wrench, whenever working on your wheel correctly.
bike. This will ensure that all nuts and bolts are tightened using the Note: The rear derailleur automatically
correct amount of force, so preventing damage to components. tensions the chain.
See page 39 for a list of torque settings.

15
 Saddle Adjustment
There’s no hard and fast rule for setting up the riding position on a bike. Start with the saddle right in the middle of the range of adjustment and try a short
The best starting point is to set the saddle height so that you can get the ball ride. The main thing is to find an easy and comfortable reach to the handlebar
of your foot on the ground while you’re sitting on the saddle. grips. But this also controls the angle of your body, so experiment by moving the
When you have to raise the saddle, don’t lift it any higher than the limit mark. saddle a centimetre at a time until you find the best combination. Check also that
There’s a danger that the seat post will break or fall out of the frame if you do. you’ve got a good view of the road ahead, without cranking your head back at an
Fit a longer seat post or buy a bigger bike if you need the saddle higher than uncomfortable angle. As for saddle angle, keep it more-or-less parallel to the ground.
allowed by the limit mark. If your bike is fitted with a shockpost that moves up and down to absorb bumps,
There is also a fore-and-aft adjustment but you must only move the saddle to adjust the saddle a little higher than normal to allow for your own weight. If you
another position along the parallel section of the saddle wire, marked by the arrows find that the shock post hits the bottom of its travel quite often, even after adjusting
below. Don’t try to force the saddle any further in either direction or you’ll break it, your retailer will supply you with a stronger spring, which should stop that
the saddle clip. Be careful also when tightening the bolt under the saddle or you’ll happening. Different springs are easy to fit - just undo the adjustment screw all
damage the alloy threads. the way.

Saddle height adjustment

1 2 3 4

To alter saddle height, undo the seat A quick release seat post clamp must It should be easy to move at first, When altering the height of the saddle,
post clamp bolt at least two turns. be tight enough to hold the seat post in then harder as the lever gets nearer you must not pull the seat post out any
Then work the saddle from side to side place on the roughest terrain. With the to the frame, then easier just before further than the limit mark. If‑you do,
as you lift it up or push it down. Finally, quick release lever fully open, tighten it hits the frame. Turn the knurled nut there’s a danger that the seat post will
check that the nose of the saddle is in the knurled nut as far as you can with anti-clockwise if the lever is too tight to either break or fall out of the frame when
line with the top tube and re-tighten the your fingers, then undo it one full turn. reach the frame and the other way if it’s riding over rough terrain.
clamp bolt. Next, start to move the Q/R lever. too loose.

16
Fore and aft adjustment Shock post Clip type saddle

To adjust the saddle angle or the When using a shock post, set saddle height a little above normal, then check how far To adjust the saddle fore-and-aft, undo
fore-and aft position, undo the bolt it sinks with your full weight on it. If it drops more or less than half an inch, adjust the one of the large nuts about two turns,
under the saddle a couple of turns and pre-loading to make sure you get the full comfort benefits. then tap the saddle backwards or
move the saddle to its’ new position, To adjust the pre-loading, undo the clamp bolt and pull the shock post right out of forwards with your hand. If you want to
holding the clip together with the the frame. If you want the saddle to sag more, turn the adjuster two turns clockwise. alter the angle, undo both nuts at least
other hand. Tighten the bolt and test If you want it to sink less, try two turns anti-clockwise. two turns and click the saddle into the
the new position. new position.

Riding position
Adjust the height of the saddle so that when cycling along, your leg will be slightly
bent with the pedal at its lowest point. If the first time you use this riding position
you feel that the muscles in the back of your leg are too stretched, lower the
saddle a few millimetres at a time until you feel comfortable.
Check that with the saddle in this position you can place the ball of your foot
comfortably on the ground while sitting on the bicycle.
This applies to most normal cycle use. Riders using Jump, Trials & other specialist
bikes will have their own preferences.

17
 Checking Brakes Tightening the cable adjuster
To tighten the cable, undo the lock
The first thing to check on either cantilever or caliper brakes is the amount of effort nut arrowed in the picture. Then
needed for an emergency stop. If you have to pull the lever more than halfway to undo the knurled adjuster two turns
the handlebars, the cable should be tightened .Next, check that the brake pads are anti-clockwise and test. If the brakes
aligned with the wheel rim and are not worn. If they’re not aligned correctly or need are OK, retighten the lock nut but for
changing, see page 19. the sake of safety, always leave three
If one of the wheels starts to rub against the brake pads after making any of these full threads in the brake. Ensure slots
adjustments, check that it’s correctly centred in the frame and that the brake pads are not all in line in order to keep
are centred on the wheel rim. If the wheels and brakes are correctly centred, the cable secure. This should be checked
wheels may be slightly buckled and you should ask your retailer to check this point. regularly.
Most models are fitted with powerful long arm cantilever brakes, called V-brakes.
If they don’t seem to be stopping the bike as quickly as they should, check the
alignment and condition of the brake pads and the position of the brake arms -
see page 20. It’s more difficult to set up standard cantilever correctly. If you have
problems, consult your retailer. Cantilevers
Finally, see page 24 for caliper brakes, often fitted to sports and children’s bikes.
Check pad alignment and pad wear as
explained above. If you have to realign
the pads, hold the mounting with an
Allen key at the front while you loosen
the nut at the back slightly. Adjust the
pad position, then retighten the nut.

Bike braking systems are so powerful that it’s easy to lock the wheels and take a flyer
over the handlebars. So before your first ride, stand next to your bike and push it
backwards and forwards, gently applying the brakes so that you get an idea of the
braking forces involved. Always apply the rear brake a fraction of a second ahead of the
front brake, especially in the wet. You can adjust the reach to the brake
lever on some standard cantilevers
Then ride round an empty car park for a while, constantly using the brakes so that you in the same way as on V-style brakes.
get used to the amount of force needed to pull up smartly, without skidding or locking If the pads are more than 4 mm from
the wheels. Again, this is particularly important in the wet. the rim, tighten the cable adjuster.
On a wet road, it takes about 60% longer for bikes and most other vehicles to stop. So Finally, equalise pad to rim distance
when it’s wet, give everything else on the road a wider berth and be very careful when with the Philips screw.
threading through traffic. Above all, don’t snatch at the brakes - apply them well before
you have to stop and give the pads a chance to wipe the rims dry.

18
Check brake pads V-style brakes Wheel rim
condition
On most bicycles the New rim
brakes work by pressing
on the wheel rim. This
gradually wears the rim
wall away. If the rim wall
gets too thin it may fail
allowing the tyre to come
off the rim - which is
V-style brakes are very efficient and only potentially dangerous. Worn rim
need a very light pull on the lever when
properly adjusted. If you have to reach To prevent this occurring
too far for the brake levers, you can bring there are two ways of
When the pads are correctly aligned, Now a check on pad wear. If there’s a checking when a rim has
there will be a gap (arrow) between the ‘wear line’, as on the pad at the front, them closer to the handlebars with a
hexagon key or Philips screwdriver. come to the end of it’s
top of the pad and the top of the rim. As they’re OK until the line is reached. useful life and should be
the pads wear down, check they don’t If‑there’s no wear line, change the pads changed:
overlap onto the tyre. Check also that when they reach 2 mm from the bottom
curved pads follow the curve of the rim. of the grooves, as on the back two pads. A “wear-line” on the
outside of the rim in the
form of a groove. When
this groove has been worn
Special cavity
away the rim should be
changed.

Brake modulators A special cavity inside the rim.

The rim should be changed
Modulator devices are fitted to some when this starts to appear as
braking systems. The one arrowed above a slot in the sidewall.
is an inline modulator, usually found on
a child’s bike but there are various other For maximum braking power, check pad During winter, the rims can
types. Do not tamper with modulator alignment and wear. Check also that become very greasy. So to
settings as they are set at the factory. there’s an equal gap between the pad maintain full braking power,
and the rim on either side. If there isn’t, clean them with an Extreme
adjust the gap using the tiny adjuster Degreaser, if the brakes don’t
screws at the pivots. seem to have their usual bite.

19
 V-style and Cantilever Brakes
If the 21 point Safety Check has revealed that the brake pads are worn down to the When you’ve checked all these points, tighten the fixing nut but leave it loose enough
wear line or close to the bottom of the grooves in the pad, don’t delay fitting new to allow you to do two more adjustments.
ones. The first of these is toe-in. This means that when the brakes are applied, the front of
To remove the old pads, try to identify how they’re fixed to the brake arms. Two the pad hits the rim before the back does. Then, when the moving wheel rim drags
different designs are shown on the opposite page but once you loosen the fixing the brake pad forward, the brake arm bends a little. So the rest of the pad reaches the
bolt, usually low down at the back of the brake arm, you should be able to pull the rim smoothly, without juddering or snatch. Sometimes a ‘pip’ of rubber at the back of
old pads out quite easily. Although in some cases you’ll find it easier if you remove the the pad helps you to gauge the 1 to 2 mm toe-in normally recommended. In other
wheel first. cases, a special gauge is supplied with the pads but it’s often just a matter of eye.
When fitting the new pads, take a moment to work out how they go. If‑the pads are The second adjustment concerns alignment with the wall of the rim. You must adjust
curved, they must follow the curve of the rim. On the other hand, if there’s an arrow the pad so that it touches the wheel rim square on when the brakes are applied. This
on the side of the pads, it must point forwards. And there must be at least 1mm ensures that the largest possible area of rubber is in contact with the wall of the rim,
between the top of the pad and the top of the rim, as shown on page 19 . so you get the best possible braking.

New brake pads V-style brakes

1 2 1 2

Front

If there’s no gauge to help you set the Once you’ve got the toe-in right, pull the V-style brakes work best when the Then make sure that the cable is
toe-in, aim to position each pad so that brake lever and bring the pads up close brake arms are almost upright. If the completely free. Push the brake arms
there’s a 1 to 2 mm gap between the to the rim. Then adjust the angle of the brakes look wrong or don’t work well, into a more upright position and lightly
back of the pad and the rim, There’s no pad so that it contacts the rim square on. there’’s probably too much inner cable do up the cable clamp. Check that there’s
need to measure it exactly, so long as the Finally, tighten the fixing nuts and check showing between the brake arms. If you enough room for the wheel between the
gap is exactly the same both sides. all three adjustments. suspect this, undo the cable clamp. pads and tighten the cable clamp again.

20
Standard cantilever How pads are fitted to V-style brakes

1 3

This type of pad fixing is similar to

To fit new brake pads to standard Check also that the angle of the brake
the one used on caliper brakes. The
cantilevers, slacken off the cable pad brings it square on to the wheel rim.
main difference is the use of two
adjuster on the brake lever and then When you’ve checked all these points,
curved, interlocking washers each
unhook the wire from the brake arm. tighten up the pad clamp nut. Make sure
side of the brake arm, which allow
Loosen the nut at the back of the pad the pad doesn’t move by holding the
the pad to be moved in any direction.
holder, using a hexagon key to stop it front of the pad clamp with a hexagon
You need a hexagon key for the
turning round and round. key.
fixing nut.

2 4

On the other common design of pad

fixing, you need a spanner to undo the
Turn the pad clamp so that the brake If a standard cantilever is not working nut at the back of the brake arm. The
pad faces away from the rim. Pull the well, check that the straddle wire lines up dished washer, shown in the enlarged
worn pad out of the clamp and fit the with the diagonal mark running across inset picture, allows you to adjust the
new one. Align it with the rim leaving the cable carrier (arrow). If‑it doesn’t, pad in all directions.
a gap at the top and set toe-in at 1mm. undo the straddle wire clamp and adjust
Check again when the pads have worn the length of the straddle wire.
down.

21
 Disc Brakes
1 3
It is better if the bike is upside down to a bike, you must slide the disc into
when fitting a disc brake wheel. position between the pads, before you
Disc brakes use 2 pads and these are fit the wheel to the frame. If you don’t,
usually kept in place with packing pieces there’s a slight possibility of either
during transit. Remove the packaging jamming the pad against the disc or
from between the disc pads making sure preventing the caliper moving.
that the pads are not displaced. The small gap between the pad and the
High performance models are fitted disc also makes it vital to keep the disc
with disc brakes to ensure powerful and absolutely straight and true. So don’t
consistent braking under all conditions. ever kick it, let it bind on a rock or get To remove a front wheel with a disc To fit new brake pads, you next have
Brakes which work on the wheel rim damaged in any other way. If the disc brake, turn the quick release lever to to free the inner pad holder from the
only work properly when the rim is clean does go out of true, it’ll rub much more the open position and let it drop out. caliper body. So locate all three fixing
and dry. In rain or mud, the brake pad heavily on the pad and must be replaced If it seems stuck, undo the adjuster nut bolts and go round undoing each one
tends to slide over the braking surface without delay. a bit. When refitting the wheel, lift it half a turn at a time. This method of
rather than gripping it. So not only does As for maintenance, disc brake pads carefully into place and re-adjust the working will prevent any distortion of
braking performance fall off badly, you should be replaced every 2 to 3,000 quick release. the parts.
can never be sure just how much it is km or when they have worn down to
affected. 6.3 mm in thickness, whichever comes
Disc brakes, on the other hand, have
larger pads that can easily wipe any
first. If you don’t, the steel backing will
eventually score the disc. But when you 2 4
water or mud off the disc. This gives you do fit new pads, and whenever you find
consistent levels of braking, whatever that you need to pull the brake lever
the weather or the surface conditions. a lot further to stop quickly, you must
In addition, the mechanism presses the adjust the gap between the pad and the
pad much more firmly against the disc. disc. The only other maintenance job is
to apply a little copper-based anti-seize
Remember that the gap between the
compound to the caliper mounting pins
pad and the disc is very small. So‑when
every so often.
correctly adjusted, the brake pads rub
very lightly against the disc. In fact you Refer immediately to your retailer if To fit a new cable, hold the back of the When you have removed all three bolts,
should be able to hear a light scraping the disc gets scored or distorted or you cable clamp with a spanner while you gently prise the pad holder away from
noise when you spin the wheel. This hear any unusual noises, especially loosen the cable clamp with an Allen the caliper body. The pad is held in place
means that you get the full braking screeching or grinding sounds. key. This is also the first step when you with a tiny spring, so prise this away as
effect with only a short pull on the brake Please note disc brake type may vary have to strip down the caliper to free it well. Be very careful, as the spring can fly
lever. But the small gap also means that from model to model, but in principal off or when you want to fit new brake in any direction.
when fitting wheels with disc brakes their operation is the same. pads.

22
 Adjusting brake pads Brake Pads
5 7 There are many types
and shapes available
specific to the make and
model of brake please
consult our website

You can now shake the pad out of the When properly located, the pad holder is
holder. Check the thickness of the pad a snug fit on the face of the caliper body
to see if it needs replacing and clean and there should be an even gap all the
any dust out of the pad holder and way round. Re-fit all three Allen screws You need an 8 mm ring spanner
caliper body. You must not inhale the next, going round tightening them a and a 2.5 mm hexagon key for this
dust, so use multilube for this part of quarter or a half turn at a time. job, which is best done with the
the job. bike upside down. First, locate the
adjuster at the fork end of the brake
arm. Hold the central bolt still with

6 8 the hexagon key while you undo the

lock nut about a turn.
Turn the hexagon key clockwise
until the pads scrape the disc when
you spin the wheel. Next, turn the
hexagon key anti-clockwise half a
turn so that the pads only scrape
the disc very lightly. Holding the
hexagon key still, you tighten the
lock nut and then apply the brakes
Fit the new pads into the pad holder The caliper body is held onto the fork 4 or 5 times. You should still be able
and caliper body, holding them there leg by two pins but it must be easily to hear a very light scraping but if
with the springs. However, they don’t moveable. If it seems to be fixed, strip you can’t hear anything or, on the
hold the pads in place very firmly and the caliper down again and take care other hand, the scraping is very
the pins on the pad holder are a tight to fit it all back together again evenly. noticeable, try adjusting the pads
fit in the holes in the caliper body, so Finally, adjust the brake pads. again.
be careful.

23
 Caliper There are various brake

Brakes 1 3 blocks available.

These brakes are fitted to most sports

and utility bikes. Some are made of
steel, some of alloy as shown here.
But they all work in exactly the same
way, apart from the dual pivot calipers
fitted to some sports bikes. For
additional instructions on dual pivots,
see page 37.
When the brake pads start to wear, On sports bikes, the calipers are fitted To fit new brake pads to calipers, check
you can bring the brakes back to top to the frame with a recessed hexagon with your retailer for the correct type
performance by tightening the cable nut. Clean any dirt out of the socket and size. Then remove the old pads by
adjuster one or two turns. The only with a piece of cloth before you try undoing the fixing bolt and turning
other regular maintenance needed to undo the nut. Most are fitted using the brake pads on their side. Try not to
is to oil the caliper every month with a simple nut and washer, which you disturb the centring of the caliper.
Bike Lube where indicated by the mustn’t leave out.
arrow on picture 2.
Otherwise check pad alignment
and wear, as described on Page 19
whenever you do a 21‑point Safety 2 4
Check. However, it’s not always easy
to centre the pads exactly, so have a
couple of goes. If you have trouble
getting these adjustments right,
consult your retailer.

There must be an equal distance Fit the new pads, tighten the fixing bolt
between the brake pad and rim on each lightly and set the toe-in and alignment
side. So loosen the fixing bolt, hold as on page 22. Then fully tighten the pad
the caliper in a position where the pad fixing bolt. If the pads keep moving as
to rim gap is equal and re-tighten the you tighten the bolt, hold them in the
bolt. The arrow indicates the lubrication jaws of an adjustable spanner.
point.

24
Checking Checking the
the Cranks 1 3 bottom bracket

All the power that you generate with

your legs passes through the chainset
and the bottom bracket bearings,
which means that the hexagon bolts
holding the cranks onto the bottom
bracket must be kept very tight. We
recommend using a torque wrench
but a long hexagon key will do.
You won’t be able to tighten them To tighten up the crank bolts, grasp one Before you check how tight the
enough with a standard one. crank firmly with one hand to hold the chainring bolts are, it’s worth undoing
If you ever hear a creaking noise from chainset still. Then apply as much force each one in turn and coating the thread To test for wear in the bottom bracket
the bottom bracket, it may be a sign with a torque wrench or hexagon key as with copper-based anti-seize compound bearings, take hold of the ends of
that one or other of the crank bolts you can with the other. Don’t forget to before refitting. This prevents corrosion both cranks and try to rock them from
need tightening. Don’t ride a bike tighten the other crank as well. and stops the bolts seizing up. side to side. If only one crank seems
with creaking cranks or you’ll damage to move, it’s loose on the axle and the
them and it’ll be impossible to ever crank bolts should be tightened up
tighten them properly again. From
time to time, it’s also worth checking
2 4 before you ride the bike again.
On the other hand, if both cranks
that the bolts holding the chainrings move sideways the same amount, the
to the cranks are tight. bottom bracket bearings have got
Most models are fitted with a sealed some play in them.
bottom bracket to prevent water Sometimes the bearings can be
entry but eventually, the bearings will adjusted to eliminate this play but if
start to wear. This causes movement it’s a modern, sealed bottom bracket,
or play that will affect the gear the whole thing has to be replaced. In
change and waste your energy, so either case, it’s a job for your retailer.
make regular checks. When you’ve tightened both crank Check the crank bolts for tightness by However, depending on how much
bolts, check that the thread of both holding one crank absolutely still while you use your bike, it’s unlikely to need
crank bolt covers is lightly coated with you try to move the other one. Test for doing for several years.
anti-seize grease. Then tighten the movement from side to side as well as
covers, where fitted, with a pin spanner backwards and forwards. Then apply
so they won’t come out while you’re the test to the other crank.
riding.

25
 Gear Easy-Fire shifters
Changing
There are two different types of gear
changer. Those fitted to the right
1 2 3
hand side of the handlebar control
the rear gear. This moves the chain
across the six, seven, eight or nine
sprockets on the back wheel. To
help you keep track of which gear
you are in, they are usually fitted
with an indicator. When the rear
changer is working correctly, gear
changes are almost silent and go
through very quickly. However, it’s
always best to change gear well On some bikes, the lever for changing To change downwards, hook your If you find it awkward to use this type
before you start struggling to keep gear upwards has a large thumb grip. forefinger round the bottom lever, pull it of changer, or cannot see the gear
the speed up. It also helps to take To change up, reduce the pressure on upwards until it clicks and then release indicator, try adjusting its position on
a little pressure off the pedals and the pedals but keep them turning. Then it. If you want to change more than one the handlebars. Just loosen the bolt
change a maximum of three gears push the lever once or more, depending gear, pull the lever two or three times on the handlebar clamp two turns and
at a time. on how many gears you want to shift. but again, keep pedalling. while you twist the whole changer assembly.
do so.
If a changer is fitted to the left hand
side of the handle bar, this controls
the front chainwheel gears.
Don’t try to changer gear when
the bike is standing still or coasting
downhill. In addition, don’t try to Indexing adjustment
take a gear changer apart, just give
them a quick squirt of multi purpose If gears are slow to change up to top gear or tend to jump off when you
lube over the exterior of the moving select bottom gear, try tightening the cable adjuster half a turn. If that
parts and then wipe off the surplus. doesn’t work, try another half turn. If there’s still a problem, check the
As for rotational changers, leave basic adjustment, as shown on page 28.
both lubrication and fault finding
entirely to your retailer.

26
Rotational changer Gear selection

Using the small

1 2 Smallest chainring and small
sprocket sprocket together
causes excessive
chain crossover . . .

Smallest
chainring

The idea of a rotary changer is to allow To change down, lift your wrist and
you to change gear with a simple wrist then grasp the rotary part of the hand
movement. When changing up, take grip. Then click down quickly but
a firm grip on the inboard end of the smoothly. However, if you want to
hand grip drop your wrist, clicking the change from top to near bottom gear,
changer once for every gear that you it’s best to do it in two stages, pausing
want to change through on the right. a second half way.
The LH may be a friction shifter. Biggest . . . as does using
sprocket the big chainring
with the biggest
sprocket. Use these
gear combinations
Don’t ride a bike with badly adjusted gears. If you can’t rely on finding the right gear as little as possible,
every time, if the chain keeps jumping off or you’re stuck in a high gear, it’s only too otherwise the chain
easy to lose control. and sprockets will
AND REMEMBER: Bottom and the rest of the low gears are for wear out faster than
climbing hills. Top and the other high gears are for descents. Biggest they should.
chainring
At the rear wheel, the small sprocket is top gear, the large sprocket is bottom.

27
 Making Adjustments: Shimano derailleur (back wheel removed for clarity)
Gears
When your gears are running properly, you should be able to select any gear
1 3
first time. There should be almost no noise, either from the chain running
over the sprockets or when you change gears. If there’s a clicking or a
clacking noise in any gear, try tightening the cable slightly - see page 26.
Try lubricating the gear cable as well.
On the other hand, if the chain starts to drop off the chainwheel or it feels
as if it’s trying to jump off the largest or the smallest sprocket, clean the
chain and both gear mechanisms with a degreaser. Then check all the
adjustments, as shown. here.
This is also a good time to check the jockey wheels for wear. On Shimano,
To set up Shimano gears correctly, Test the change from the smallest
the top jockey wheel should have a little bit of sideways movement but the
let the chain down onto the smallest sprocket to the next. It should click up
bottom one should not. On SRAM, both jockey wheels should be free of any
sprocket. Try turning the H adjuster and down without delay. If it doesn’t,
play. But all jockey wheels should turn smoothly, quietly and with very little
either way until the chain runs almost give the cable adjuster half a turn
drag, so clean and grease them if they don’t. And ask your retailer to fit new
silently when you turn the pedals. Then anti-clockwise. Then test the top to
jockey wheels if that doesn’t do the trick.
undo the H screw another half turn bottom change and adjust the L screw
If you can’t get the gears to change smoothly and precisely, get your Retailer anti-clockwise. if necessary.
to check if the cables need replacing and that the gear mechanisms and
frame are not damaged in any way.

Remember, at the rear wheel:

2 4
The smaller the sprocket, the higher the gear. So adjust the screw marked
H for High. The larger the sprocket, the lower the gear. So adjust the screw
marked L for Low.

But at the chainwheel:

The larger the chainring, the higher the gear. So adjust the screw marked H
for High. The smaller the chainring, the lower the gear. So adjust the screw Next, turn the pedals slowly and use
your thumb to push the gear inwards Keep on increasing the cable tension
marked L for Low.
against the spring, lifting the chain half a turn at a time until the top to
up onto the big sprocket. Adjust the second change works really well going
L screw until the chain runs almost both ways. Finally, flick up and down the
silently, then let it jump back down whole range of sprockets several times,
onto the smallest sprocket. as fast as you can, just to check.

28
Sram derailleur Front Changer Stiff link
Sometimes, you may notice a little jerk of the

1 1 pedals that happens in every gear. It won’t

happen every turn of the pedals but
roughly every two and a half turns.
This is caused by one link of the chain
stiffening up, so it must be loosened
off. Clean the chain first because
it’ll be a filthy job otherwise. Then
turn the bike upside down and turn
the pedals. As you watch the chain
running over the jockey wheels, you‘ll
Adjust the H screw so that a line If the chain cage is more than 1 mm easily spot the link which doesn’t run
through the centre of both jockey from the biggest chainring, slacken off through the chain cage smoothly but
wheels hits the outer edge of the the bolt on the clip a little. Then drop which jumps or kicks a little.
smallest sprocket. Then press the the front changer until it is as close as This is the stiff link, so flex it from side to side
gear inwards with your thumb and the indicator shown here. The outer with your thumbs, until it loosens up. If this does
adjust the L screw so that the jockey chain cage must also be parallel with the not work, ask your retailer for advice.
wheels line up exactly with the largest chainring.
sprocket.

2 2 Chainwear Indicator

L
Ensure you fit the correct type of chain.
H Single Speed
5-8 Speed
Now check that there are 3 chain rivets Turn the L screw clockwise if the chain 9 Speed
between the point where the chain tends to get thrown off the small
leaves the biggest sprocket and where chain-ring. Turn the H screw clockwise
10 Speed
it first touches the top jockey wheel. if the chain tends to come off the big A chainwear indicator tells you if the chain has stretched. If you ride with a
Adjust the B screw if necessary. Finalise chainring. Turn the adjuster screws stretched chain you will prematurely wear out your chain rings and casette and in
adjustment as in pictures 3 and 4 on anti-clockwise if the chain doesn’t climb extreme cases it will cause your gears to slip.
page 28. easily onto the chainring.

29
 SETTING UP THE SUSPENSION Suspension forks

1
Select one convenient point on the
To make the best of your suspension bike, it fixed part of the forks and another on
the lower, moveable part and measure
must be set up to take your own individual the distance between them. Then,
weight and riding style into consideration. while someone holds the handlebars
level, check that your riding position is
The objective is to adjust the strength of the springs so that when you put roughly right.
your weight on the saddle, the bike sinks down or sags about thirty per cent
of the total spring travel. That is the total distance that the forks or the rear
triangle will move.
The only problem with suspension on bikes is that over big bumps, all the
spring travel can get used up. The moving part will then crash into the fixed
part - a situation called bottoming out. This will destroy the suspension if it
2
Bounce up and down to settle the
happens too often, so avoid crashing into potholes. It‑can also happen when suspension, then measure the distance
the front of the bike pitches upwards and it reaches the other end of the between the two points. Take that figure
suspension travel. This is called rebound. However, adjusting the suspension away from the first one to give you the
for thirty per cent sag minimises the amount of bottoming out because it amount the suspension goes down
allows for the rebound. (sags) when you sit on the bike.
Where only the forks have suspension, again go for the thirty per cent sag.
When you adjust the forks, whether the bike has sprung forks only or full
suspension, make sure you adjust both legs equally. If you don’t, the legs will
wear unevenly and become distorted.
As for riding technique, try to develop a smooth pedalling style to stop the
bike bobbing around. And when climbing hills, change to a lower gear earlier
than you would otherwise. That way, you should be able to stay in the saddle
3
The amount of sag should be about
and so keep the back wheel glued to the ground, not bumping around in 30% of total fork travel. If it’s less, the
mid air, wasting a lot of effort. forks are too stiff and you should turn
the adjusters anti-clockwise. Do the
opposite if it’s well over a third. Then
repeat steps one and two to check the
adjustment.

If there’s not enough adjustment to get the right amount of sag, talk to your retailer
about fitting alternative springs. In addition, get your retailer to grease the forks
every six months, or sooner if the corrugated gaiters get damaged.

30
Rear suspension

1 4
Go back to Step 1 again and measure When you have completed the
the sag on the rear suspension with adjustment process, the bike should
your weight on the saddle. The most sag equally front and rear. If it doesn’t,
convenient place to measure is usually re-adjust the front or rear units as
between the centres of the mounting required. But the real test is riding the
bolts at each end of the suspension bike and working out how to set it up to
unit. suit your own personal style.

2 5
Rear suspension sag can be reduced The heart of the rear suspension is the
by turning the adjustable spring seat pivot. We use a large pivot with built-in
clockwise. Or increased by turning the protection against the wet. But it still
spring seat anti-clockwise. Keep testing pays to keep the pivot area free of dust
and adjusting the spring until you get and mud, and also lubricate it with Bike
the amount of sag right. Lube occasionally.

3
If you cannot achieve the required
amount of sag you may need to fit a
different stiffness spring.
After a few
weeks use . . .
While preparing this bike, your retailer will have checked all 21 points in the list
on page 2. This is to make sure that your bike is safe, that you know how to get
the best out of it, and that it’s adjusted to fit you. But over the first few weeks of
use, the whole bike will settle down. As a result, the gears may need tweaking,
some nuts and bolts may need tightening and you may well need to check the
adjustment of the saddle and handlebars.

31
 SPECIALIST BIKES Hub Gear Bikes

1
To remove the back wheel of a hub gear
Hub gear or utility bikes are mainly used for short distance work in town. bike, you first have to disconnect the
They’re nearly always designed to have an upright riding position, though control chain from the gear cable. So
the actual frame is usually quite laid back. This means that nearly all your undo the knurled nut about an eighth
weight is on the saddle, so this has to be pretty soft. By carefully adjusting of a turn anti-clockwise, then undo the
the handlebars, you can get some of your weight forward but not a lot. As cable connector about 12 turns anti-
for saddle height, it’s best to position the saddle so that you can get the ball clockwise.
of your feet on the ground while sitting on the saddle, without stretching at
all. That way you’ll be comfortable when held up by the traffic and be able to
hop on and off easily.
Toe clips are not usually used on this type of bike but you should still try to
pedal with the ball of your foot. If you pedal with your instep, it’ll be much
harder work, especially on hills.
2
Let the cable dangle while you loosen
Hub gear bikes have a different back wheel safety system, so take careful both hub nuts with a spanner. When
note of how the wheel nuts and washers are fitted BEFORE removing the the long sleeve nut is free, pull it off the
wheel and stick rigidly to this arrangement when you replace it. control chain and lift off the two safety
washers that fit under the hub nuts. Put
Adjusting a Sturmey Archer the washers and nuts in a safe place.
To adjust a Sturmey Archer gear, if it slips or jumps when you’re pedalling
or when refitting the back wheel, turn the whole control chain clockwise. It
must be screwed into the gear as far as it will go.
Next, if you’re refitting the back
wheel, screw the cable connector
onto the end of the control chain
To refit the wheel, wrap the chain round
3
until it almost reaches the knurled nut
the sprocket and lift the wheel up into
set in second gear. Then look through
the slot in the frame. Make sure you fit
the hole in the sleeve nut and locate
one of the heavy safety washers to each
the main part of the control chain
side of the axle, under each hub nut
(in red). Turn the connector until
with the serrated side facing inwards.
the shoulder of the control chain
(arrowed, where the blue meets the
red) lines up with the end of the axle.
Finally, lock the connector with the
knurled nut.

32
 Rear suspension

4 1
Pull the wheel back until the chain is The gear change on a Shimano Nexus
taut, then tighten the wheel nuts with hub gear is made in one piece with the
your fingers. The chain should have brake lever. You change gear by clicking
about half an inch of slack and the up and down with the inner part of the
wheel must be centred in the frame. hand grip. Nexus gears and brakes must
Then tighten the wheel nuts half a turn be refilled with grease every 6 months.
at a time each.

5 2
Once the hub nuts are tight, check that To adjust a 7 speed Nexus hub gear
you can only lift the chain about half an if it makes an odd noise when riding
inch. And also that the wheel is exactly in normally, select 4th gear on the changer.
the centre of the frame. Tighten the hub Then adjust the gear cable with the
nuts for the last time, reconnect the gear adjuster under the chain stay so that the
cable and adjust. two red slots (arrow) line up exactly.

3
Adjust hub brakes using the cable
adjuster and then spin the wheel to
check it’s not dragging. If grease ever
Note: The chain is automatically tensioned leaks out, if the gear or brake ever make
on models fitted with derailleur gears. odd noises and for regreasing, refer to
your retailer without delay.

33
 BMX Bikes
1 3
BMXs are designed for maximum bike control at slow speeds. The frames are
built for strength rather than speed and the basic design does not vary a lot,
although there are various styles of riding. Only one size of frame is normally
available, though the saddle adjusts up and down to cater for riders of
varying height.
Some BMX riding styles and practices place an extraordinary load on the
frame and mechanical parts. Riders should therefore read the guarantee on
page 49, which covers normal off road riding only.
There is only one gear on these bikes, so the best way to change the gearing
is to fit a larger or smaller sprocket. However, basic BMXs use a one piece When setting up the back brakes, screw Now check the cable assembly just
chainset, so you can’t change the gearing anyway. Higher up the range, the adjuster in as far as possible. Then below the handlebars. Make sure that
they’re similar to a normal cotterless chainset and it is possible to alter the loosen off the straddle wire yoke and the middle plates are free to move.
gearing. position it about half an inch from the Adjust the brake cables so that both
Maybe the hardest part of a BMX to understand is the braking system. Most frame and retighten, The idea is to allow moving plates are an equal distance
BMXs are fitted with compact U brakes front and back. However, many tricks the longest possible straddle wire. apart at their ends and level with the
involve spinning the handlebars, which would be impossible without a ground.
special device called a Gyro or an Oryg. This features a back brake cable that
splits into two near the brake lever. The cable adjusters screw into a loose
plate at the top of the headset with the nipples located in the middle plate.
A second pair of cables connects to the middle and lower plates but join into 2 4
one again before reaching the back brake. When you spin the handlebars,
the stem and headset revolve but the cable mounting plates stay still.
It nearly always requires a fair bit of trial and error to get the brake cable
adjustment right. So if you have trouble, consult your retailer. He will also be
able to supply a replacement for the special rear cable.

Release one end of the straddle wire Test the tension on the top section of the
and run it round the yoke. If it won’t rear brake cables. If they’re slack, increase
reach, fit a new straddle cable and the tension using the cable adjuster near
repeat. Refit the straddle cable to the brake lever. Then test the back brake,
the brake arm, tension the straddle tightening the cable using the adjuster
wire with pliers and then tighten the on the frame if necessary.
clamp bolt.

34
 Safety Point
5 7 When any bike is being ridden on the
road, including any BMX, the law says Diagram 1
it must have two independent brakes,
both of them in working order.
We strongly endorse this point and
urges all riders to comply with the law.
It is important that all four bolts are
tightened by the same amount (diagram Diagram 2
1) shows the stem and the four bolts
looking from the top and indicate the
Some ‘U’ brakes may be fitted with a Lift the chain at the mid-point of it’s
order in which they should be tightened.
cable pipe that fits into a socket on bottom run. Chain tension is correct
one of the brake arms. Occasionally, when you can lift it 12mm. To adjust, The bolts should be tightened one full
check that the cable pipe moves freely undo the wheel nuts, move the wheel to turn at a time so that the gap between
and that the straddle wire is as short as it’s new position, check it’s central and the top plate and the stem body is
possible. Alternatively a simple cable finally, tighten the wheel nuts a little at equal all the way around the stem
adjuster may be fitted at the end. a time. (see diagram 2).

6 8 CUSTOMISE YOUR BMX

When front or rear pegs are fitted, To prevent distortion of the handlebar
you’ll have to use a socket set with clamp, undo one nut half a turn, then
a 250mm or 300mm extension to the diagonally opposite one the same
tighten up or undo the wheels nuts. amount. Undo the other two nuts in a
This is not the easiest task but if you similar way and continue half a turn at a
get somebody else to steady the time. Tighten up using the same method.
handlebars, that’ll help.

35
 Race & Touring Bikes
The riding position on a race bike looks uncomfortable but isn’t, if you
adjust the riding position correctly. The ball of the foot should just reach
the ground when you’re sat on the saddle and your feet, hands and bottom
should each support about a third of your weight.
Minimum weight is very important, so the tyres are very thin and light. In
fact the whole bike looks fragile besides a mountain bike. However, with
careful adjustment of the riding position, these bikes are very comfortable.
They also have more precise and agile handling than any other adult bike.
Provided you use this built-in agility to avoid all potholes and keep the tyres
pumped up hard, the wheels fitted to your sports bike will last as long as the
Basic sports bikes are fitted with a gear Some sports bikes do not have such a
ones fitted to any mountain bike.
lever on the frame. But the gears are wide range of gears as on a mountain
Lower-priced sports bikes have indexed gears controlled by levers on the still indexed, so you change gear by just bike so the gear mechanisms may be
down tube. Top-of-the-range bikes have dual control levers with the gears clicking the lever up and down. There’s are more compact, with a shorter chain
operated from the brake levers, which is much more convenient. However, a similar lever on the other side of the cage on the rear mech and a lighter front
the gears themselves, though, are very similar, to mountain bike gears, frame that operates the front gear mech. But they’re still adjusted as shown
except in detail, and they’re adjusted in the same way, as shown on pages change. on page 28.
30 and 31. The only real difference is that most sports bikes only have two
chainrings, not three as mountain bikes do.
Clipless pedals are fitted to all top sports and racing bikes and to top
mountain bikes. They’re more efficient for racing and fast riding generally
because the cleat on the sole of the shoe gives you a positive connection to
the pedal. But there are several different designs of pedals and cleats, so you
have to buy cleats that match your pedals.
Long distance touring machines are similar to sports bikes but have
mudguards, luggage carriers and lower gears, perhaps with a triple chainset
to cope with their different role.

Top sports bikes and mountain On top road bikes, the brake and gear
bikes are fitted with clipless pedals, levers are combined. To change up, you
only usable with the correct shoes move the brake lever sideways. To change
and cleats. Both the pedal and cleat down, you operate the smaller lever.
must be kept clean to ensure that Keep the cable well lubricated with multi-
the device that binds the shoe to the purpose lube but don’t lube the shifter.
pedal works reliably every time.

36
 Riding position Carbon Fibre FrameS & Forks
Please read this information carefully before riding.
Important Information
Carbon Fibre frame, forks and Also be aware of damage that can be
components are much stronger and caused by clamps used to hold your
usually have a longer fatigue life than cycle on work stands or car racks which
their metal equivallents, however may cause damage to the bike.
if impacted, deeply scratched, So we advise that:
cracked or de-laminated it could lead • Do not ride your bike if there are any
On a sports bike, the aim is to to sudden total failure and result in signs of cracking, deep scratching or
have roughly the same amount serious injury or worse. de-lamination on any of the frame fork
On bikes with combined gear and brake of body weight supported by the Therefore you should inspect your or components.
levers, you can adjust the gear cables handlebars, pedals and saddle and bicycle carefully after any accident or • Do not hold your bike in a bike stand
as you ride. So when the gears won’t the back fairly flat. However, you fall for signs of any of the symptoms
change accurately or top gear is noisy, by clamping the frame as the crushing
mustn’t raise the saddle so high mentioned above. force could fracture the tubes.
put your thumb behind the ear on the that the limit mark on the seat Also you should be aware of the
cable stop and push it outwards. • If in doubt always seek professional
post, shown by the arrow, becomes possibility of damage occuring as advice from your local dealer or a
visible. a result of other incidents - such as qualified mechanic.
heavy or sharp tools or other objects
So, wearing the shoes you intend
dropping on to the bicycle and should
to cycle in, set the saddle height
inspect the cycle as above.
so that your leg is nearly straight
when the pedal is at it’s lowest point.
Next, move the saddle backwards
or forwards, to a position where
you can comfortably grip the tops CUSTOMISE YOUR CARBON
of the brake levers. And set the top
of the saddle roughly level with the
BIKE WITH PRODUCTS
ground.
Finally, position the top of the
handlebars a couple of inches below
With dual pivot brakes, you must the level of the saddle. Then, using
align the brake pads and centre them this position as a starting point,
as shown on pages 19, 20 and 21. But experiment until you find a good
there’s an extra adjustment on one of personal compromise between
the brake arms which allows you to speed and comfort.
set the gap between each pad and
the rim exactly equal.

37
 MAINTENANCE
It is extremely important that your bike is checked and serviced at regular
intervals to ensure its reliability and especially that it is safe to ride.
Every 12 months
Cleaning and lubrication also forms an important tool in the proper maintenance of Before you start make sure your bike is thoroughly clean and degreased.
your bike and this is covered in more detail immediately after this section. Unless you have a good knowledge of bikes, we suggest that you take your bike
to your local dealer for a full service. If this is not feasible we suggest you use the
Some servicing and repair tasks require specialised knowledge and tools. following checks: -
Improper adjustment may result in damage to the bike or may lead to a • Frame and forks for any damage or cracks.
serious accident, If you have any doubts consult your cycle dealer.
• Wheels are true. Replace or repair if necessary.
The following checks are suggested: - • Brake tracks on rims are not badly worn. Also clean and degrease - see page 19.
Before you ride - Check:- • Brake levers, brake adjusters + cable and nipple attached to lever is in good order.
• Wheels are tightly secured. Any sign of wear on cable to nipple joint replace inner wire.
• Tyres are inflated to correct pressure (indicated on side-wall of tyre). Also check • Brakes - Brake blocks – Replace if excessive wear is evident. Re-set brakes.
condition of tyres for cuts etc. (Note: It is a good idea to carry a puncture repair kit or • Chainwheel teeth – These wear, especially if it is an alloy chainwheel and the same
spare inner tube, tyre levers and pump with you). chainwheel ring is used most of the time. Worn chainwheels can significantly affect
gear changing.
• Handlebar, stem and headset locknut are tight and that the steering turns smoothly.
• Chain for wear and stiff links, clean and re-grease chain or replace if necessary.
• Brakes – Squeeze levers to ensure sufficient pressure can be applied without the
Chains stretch with use and should be changed before causing excessive wear of the
lever touching the handlebars. Also ensure brake blocks are aligned correctly with
chainwheel or sprockets (approximately every 1500 – 2000 miles or every 2 years if
rim and the blocks are not badly worn.
riding approximately 25 miles per week)
• Brake cables are not frayed at the end.
• Cranks are attached securely.
• Gears operate correctly. • Front shifter and rear derailleur for wear and especially check the rear derailleur in
• Wheels are running true by spinning them. You can also check that mudguards, if respect of straightness and the Jockey wheel.
fitted, are correctly adjusted at this time. • Bottom bracket fittings for wear and disassemble and re-grease or replace if required.
• Saddle is adjusted to the correct riding position and the seat pin is tightened. • Headset moves smoothly by turning wheel. Also check side movement by applying
After long or hard rides or at least every month of regular use – the front brake and try rocking the bike. If any movement is found, the headset may
Check same points as above + the following: - need cleaning, adjusting and re-greasing or the bearing may need replacing or even
• Clean, degrease and lubricate your bike. a complete new headset may need fitting.
• Cranks, bottom bracket fittings and pedals are tight. If in doubt always consult a bike dealer or qualified mechanic.
• Tyre wear and general condition for cuts, glass, thorns etc. Please note that these schedules are suggestions, frequent and heavy use of your bike
such as off road riding will require more frequent maintenance.
• Spokes are not loose or broken. These need to be attended to before the bike can
be ridden again and you are advised to get these done at your dealer. Remember good maintenance will prolong the life of your bike and components and
ensure yours and other peoples safety. Always use genuine replacement parts for safety
• Hubs are running smoothly. critical items such as brakes.

38
How to rectify a problem
with a cycle whilst it is TORQUE WRENCH SETTINGS
covered under warranty: Lbf-Ins Nm Lbf-Ins Nm
In the first instance, refer back to
the retailer you purchased the Front/Rear Wheel Nut 220–225 24.8–25.4 Handlebar to stem bolt including 4 bolt) 150–155 17–17.5
bike from. If you purchased your
bike from a shop which is not Seat bolt – recessed type bolt 100–105 11.3–11.7 Saddle clip to seat pin 150–155 17–17.5
local to you, or over the internet,
go to [Link] to see Handlebar expander bolt 140–145 15.9–16.4 Saddle clamp – allen bolt type 80–85 9–9.5
our dealer locator. Select the
Raleigh dealer of your choice and Handlebar 100–120 11.3–13.5 Cotterless crank main axle bolt nut 354-398 40-45
contact them to request that they Seat clamp bolt (Welded frame) 177 20
undertake the work required.
Suspension models Suspension shock unit / Frame pivot(s) 150 - 200 17.5 - 22.5
What is covered under warranty is
specified in this booklet (page 49). Frames and components of bicycles can be subject to high stress and extreme wear conditions.
Should you have any further Different materials - especially Aluminium and Carbon fibre react to stress in different ways and may fail suddenly.
queries relating to cycle
If the design life of a component has been reached it may fail without warning. Any scratches, cracks or change of appearance in
maintainence, sizing or assembly,
highly stressed areas should be checked carefully and if in any doubt the components should be replaced. You should pay particular
please refer to the FAQ section
attention to frames, forks, handlebars and stems, seatposts, aluminium cranks and wheel rims.
on the raleigh website at
[Link]
On the Raleigh website, you can
view our full range of cycles and Bike Storage Fitting Mudguards
accessories, purchase goods online WARNING: Wipe off all grease before use. Make sure that
and view details of Raleigh dealers rims and brake blocks are totally free from grease.
local to you.
If you require a copy of the Badly-fitted mudguards are a major safety hazard. It’s only too
current catalogue, cycle assembly easy for them to shake loose and get entangled with the wheel. If
instructions, or details of how to the wheel then jams, you’ll come to a dead stop and be unable to
select the correct sized cycle, please When your bicycle is not in regular use we suggest it is stored stay upright.
e-mail support@[Link], upside down to protect the tyres, or hung from securely mounted
stating your requirements. We will padded hooks. Care must be taken to ensure that the cycle is not So make sure mudguards are properly fitted. Use spring washers
endeavour to answer all queries damaged, eg cables pinched or paintwork scratched. If the bicycle to prevent the frame mounting screws coming loose and tighten
within 1 working day. is to be stored upright, protect the tyres by keeping them regularly the stay to mudguard fixing during the 21 point Safety Check. The
To rectify a problem with a cycle inflated. same applies to luggage racks.
whilst it is covered under warranty, If storing for some time, protect chrome parts by smearing them As for luggage straps and bungees, don’t let them hang down
please refer back to your retailer. lightly with grease. Keep grease off plastic parts. where they could jam in the wheel.

39
 WASH AND LUBE

1
Regular washing followed by oiling and greasing prevents wear and so
keeps your bike running smoothly. It also ensures that the energy you put
in is used to propel the bike and not wasted in unnecessary friction. Don’t
leave out the washing part of the job because oil is much less effective when
it’s mixed with even small amounts of dirt. On the other hand, don’t overdo
things because surplus oil attracts dirt and that means more wear.
A bike chain runs in the open and has more moving parts than the rest of
your bike put together, so a weekly or fortnightly squirt with a high quality
aerosol like Dry Chain Lube is vital. Don’t let the lubricant run onto the
wheel rims, brake pads or tyres and wipe up any that does. If‑you’ve been
plunging through deep water splashes or riding through heavy rain, it’s best
to clean the chain before re-oiling. You can use a chain cleaning machine or
Dirt Attack Extreme Degreaser applied with a toothbrush or a special chain
brush and wash off with water and an old sponge.
Dry off the chain with a clean rag, not paper, because that will shred and
possibly clog the chain. Apply the chain lube next, allowing the first lot to
soak in, then give the chain a second coat a few hours later. Lightly lube Apart from the safety items, perhaps the most important part of maintaining
gears and brakes at the same time. any bike is to keep the chain clean and well lubricated. Unfortunately it’s also the
Avoid overspray on rims and disc brake rotor surface. dirtiest but a chain cleaning device helps to keep the mess under control.

Regular Washing
Most bike bearings are protected against water but not water under
pressure. So wash your bike while it’s standing upright on its wheels and use
a sponge and a bucket of warm water plus detergent or car shampoo only.
2
Rinse with clean water, taking extra care to rinse all traces of detergent off
the brake pads and wheel rims. Finish off with a clean, dry duster. Your bike When you plan to ride in extreme conditions, perhaps
is now ready for oiling and greasing. very rainy weather or deep mud, consider using one of the
water resistant lubricants. However, you must clean the
chain first or you’ll simply form an abrasive paste.

NEVER use a pressure washer on your bike or put it through a car wash.

40
 WE recommend
Motorex wash &
lube products
Multi-purpose Lube - all points bike
spray. For light lubrication, freeing parts
that are stuck together and cleaning.
Chain Lube - formulated to get right
into the moving parts of bike chains. Less
messy than other chain lubricants.
Degreaser - for cleaning chains either
directly or using a chain cleaning machine.
Also works well on disc brake rotors, wheel
rims and drive systems.
Grease - for‑packing hub and bottom
bracket bearings. Waterproof but inclined
to thicken up over time. Do not ever use
on rotary gear changes.

Lubrication Intervals
WEEKLY - Multi Purpose Spray or Bike Lube
MONTHLY - Bike Lube and Dry Chain Lube
PERIODICALLY - Clean and pack with fresh Grease
DON’T FORGET TO LUBE CANTILEVER BRAKES,
AS SHOWN ON THE RIGHT – SEE PAGE 24 FOR CALIPER LUBRICATION.

WARNING: WHEN USING AN AEROSOL LUBRICANT, KEEP IT TO THE EXACT POINT INDICATED HERE.
WIPE UP ANY DRIPS AND KEEP THEM OFF THE WHEEL RIMS, BRAKE PADS AND TYRES IN PARTICULAR.

41
 Tyres and Tyre Care
1
Punctures should only be an occasional nuisance on a properly maintained To remove a tyre, undo the valve nut if
bike. If you find yourself regularly getting out the puncture outfit, something fitted, then move to the other side of
is wrong and you should hunt down the basic cause, rather than go on the wheel. Push back the tyre wall with
suffering. Among the possibilities are not keeping the tyres pumped up your thumb and insert the first tyre
enough, badly worn tyres, tubes that have been repaired too often and lever. Pull the lever downwards and
picking up thorns and flints when riding across country. hook onto a spoke. Repeat with the
When the tyres are too soft, you’ll get snakebite punctures. These are caused other tyre levers.
by the tube getting nipped between the ground and the wheel rim. Always
remember to inflate tyres to the pressure indicated on the sidewall of the tyre
and repair any slow punctures.
Worn tyres must be replaced but if you want to increase puncture resistance
and tyre life, consult your retailer about fitting tyres with Kevlar carcasses.
Your Retailer can also tell you about what types and sizes of tyre can be used
2
safely on your particular bike. If you go for directional tyres, fit them with the As you fit the third tyre lever, the middle
arrow on the side wall pointing forwards. one will fall out, then repeat the process
Finally, if you tend to get a lot of punctures caused by small, sharp objects if necessary. Once the tyre is loose, pull
like flints and thorns, the solution is Slime tyre sealant. This is a green liquid the lever around the rest of the rim to
which you feed into the tube and which stays liquid until you get a puncture. free the remaining part of the tyre, ready
A small amount of Slime is then forced out through the puncture, which then to pull the tube out.
solidifies and seals the puncture.
Flat tyres can also be caused by poor repair technique, often when the tube
gets pinched between the rim and the tyre lever. So make sure the end of the
tyre lever sits on the rim and not the tube or you can also get slow punctures
by using poor quality patches or using them without care. The solution here
is to use Skabs glueless patches and always prepare the surface of the tube
with the abrasive paper supplied, before applying the patch to the tube. Pull the tube out and repair the tube,
If you can’t find a slow puncture, pump the tube up lightly and dip it in a
bowl of water (or a handy puddle). The bubbles will show you where it is. 3 then check inside the tyre for foreign
bodies. Take care to avoid cutting your
fingers. Pump the tube up lightly and
push the valve back through the hole,
checking that it’s straight.
We recommend
SLIME SEALANT AND
REPAIR PRODUCTS FOR
ALL OUR BICYCLES

42
4
Tuck the tube into the tyre, making sure
it’s not folded. Next, refit the valve nut
(Presta valve only) to prevent the valve
moving, leaving the nut slightly loose.
If you’re using tyre levers, use your
P Shock Pump
thumbs to refit as much of the tyre as
• Precision 1.5” industry class gauge
possible. • Fine tuning pressure bleeder valve
• 2 stage non-leak valve release system
• Swivel hose for easy engagement
• Compact design
W Slime Bottle 4oz/8oz
Slime Tyre Sealant prevents and
repairs punctures up to 2mm in
5
To replace the tyre using the Speed
Lever, push the tyre wall back with your tubed tyres. This high quality tyre
thumb and hook the Speedlever over sealant is non toxic, environmentally
the rim. Once a section of tyre is back friendly, and Slime is easy to install an
over the rim wall, pull the Speed lever remains effective for up to 2 years.
round the rim to lift the rest of the tyre Q Alloy Floor Pump
into place. • Sturdy handle
• Kraton grips Valve Type
• Patented dual head
• Guage There are two main types of
• Super tough base valves in use. Schrader (car
type) and Presta which has a
valve nut and needs to be hand
tightened. Most pumps can be
Tyre choice used on both types.
1 DBX tyre - the most versatile BMX tyre
available in different sizes. 2 3 SCHRADER PRESTA
2 A tyre designed specifically for
MTB off road riding size 26 x 1.95.
3 Semi slick combination for on and off road. 4
4 Commuter/trekking puncture resistant. 1

43
 Clothing and Accessories

In good weather, you can cycle short distances in ordinary clothes, without
any great problems. Although if your bike is fitted with toe clips, it’s usually
worth wearing light trainers so that your feet fit into them properly. Don’t do Waterproof and breathable Ared
it the other way round and take off your toe clips so that you can wear bulky 3000 fabric. Water repellent finish.
shoes - your feet will slip around on the pedals and that’s a definite safety Taped seams. Easy adjust neck cinch.
hazard. Mesh ventilated back panels.
There is now a choice of styles in specialist cycling clothing. First there’s the 1 x zipped chest pocket. 1 x zipped
traditional style, based on tight stretch fabric. Then there’s a different, more rear pocket. Adjustable shockcord hem.
relaxed look that attracts less attention but is still highly effective on the Mesh lined. 360° reflective detail for
bike. Most of the clothing in this category is made from fabrics designed enhanced visibility. Weighs less than
to absorb sweat from the skin and lift or ‘wick’ it to the surface, where it 800g, based on size L.
evaporates more easily. That way you’ll stay drier and the increased rate of
evaporation will keep you cooler too. These fabrics are nearly all synthetic, so
they’re also easy to wash.
As for waterproofs, you’re more likely to get wet from condensation on the
inside rather than rain coming in from the outside. So go for jackets and
overtrousers made from specialist materials that allow sweat out, without
letting water in.
There are still some cycling shoes around that can be used with ordinary
pedals and toe clips and straps. But once most riders have got past the stage
of riding in ordinary trainers, nearly all now go for clipless pedals. These have
a cleat on the sole that clicks into a spring device in the pedal. So the foot is
securely attached to the pedal but can be disconnected by a swift twist of Always carry a puncture outfit, a spare tube and a few basic tools - but where?
the ankle. A wedge-shaped pack that fits under the saddle is ideal but don’t allow the straps
However, there are several basic systems on the market, with variations, to dangle or they might catch in the wheel. Larger sizes are also available.
and hundreds of different designs of shoes and pedals too. So you need the
advice of your retailer in this area, although average riders are best suited by
a rubber-soled shoe that allows you to walk properly and silently. In the top
racing shoes, you can do neither !

44
 Bike
Security
Thousands of bicycles are stolen
each year, so if you want to keep your
bicycle, never leave it unlocked in a
public place. Deter thieves by using a
lock that resists bolt cutters, such as
a hardened steel chain and padlock
or D-lock. Your retailer will stock a
comprehensive range of locks.
Always lock through the frame and
rear wheel, and front wheel if possible,
then secure to a post or other
immovable object. Do not leave your
All year round, good cycling gloves have bicycle in dark secluded areas where
a wide range of benefit, keeping your thieves have more time to work. Take
hands clean and protecting them against For occasional use, or for frames that won’t take easily removable items such as lights
twigs and thorns when riding across standard mudguards, you can usually fit a clip on and pump with you.
country. In addition, gel padding in the mudguard to the down tube or seat post.
palms helps to absorb road shocks.

Most models are fitted with bottle cage There’s no escaping the fact that saddles Rear carriers can be used for
mounts as standard but the bottle cause more discomfort than any other mounting luggage panniers or some
mountings can also be used as a neat way part of a bike. Padded shorts and specific fitting child seats.
to fit a mini-pump. Just undo the fixings leggings are one solution but under liners
with a hexagon key, thread them through do the same sort of job and can be worn
the holes in the pump clip and refit. under leisure clothing.

45
 ESSENTIAL BIKE TOOLS
Traditionally when you purchased a bike, it came with a stamped out spanner which was supposed to cover all types of maintenance
required on your purchase. Today’s bikes tend to be more complex and as such, there are many tools available for the task in hand.

Getting Started Home Mechanics

Today’s equivalent to that stamped out spanner is the hex key multi tool. Most For most people, a broken bike means a trip to the local bike shop mechanic.
modern bikes now use metric hex or “allen” key fittings. The most common sizes of However, for those of you that like to tinker a bit and get your hands dirty, you can
these are 4, 5 and 6mm. This is normally enough for tightening handlebars, stems and be sure that your retailer offers a tool for the job in its comprehensive range. Here are
seat posts. These tools often include screw drivers too which are used for derailleur some pointers for those wanting to get to know their bike a little better.
system adjustments and fine tuning brakes. A chain splitter will allow you to sort broken links, and to fit and shorten new chains,
You will also need some tyre levers, a wheel nut spanner (if the bike does not feature cassette and freewheel removers are used to replace these items as they wear, and
quick release levers) this will be enough to get you riding. Don’t forget to take a pump are required if spokes need replacing in the rear wheel. A spoke key is a useful tool for
and spare tube/puncture repair kit if you’re going far from home. keeping your wheels spinning true. Finally, if you’re going to fit your own inner brake
and gear wires, why not have the satisfaction of a clean cut of the wire by investing in
some quality cable cutters fit for the purpose? (Pliers are not the correct tool)

The professional
For some people, there comes a time when they want to create their own professional workshop
either for their own satisfaction, or for a local club house. If this sounds like you, then why
not look at the combined ranges from Cyclepro and Unior. Here you will find specialist frame
preparation tools such as bottom bracket shell facing tools and head tube reamers. Quality tools
don’t come cheap, but if used correctly you could still be using them in 10 years time.

46
Service record
NAME: CONTACT TEL: COLOUR:
DEALER: DEALER CONTACT TEL: FRAME SIZE:
MAKE: MODEL:

SERVICE ONE SERVICE TWO SERVICE THREE SERVICE FOUR

DATE: DATE: DATE: DATE:
MECHANIC: MECHANIC: MECHANIC: MECHANIC:

DEALER STAMP DEALER STAMP DEALER STAMP DEALER STAMP

WORK CARRIED OUT: WORK CARRIED OUT: WORK CARRIED OUT: WORK CARRIED OUT:

FURTHER WORK RECOMMENDED: FURTHER WORK RECOMMENDED: FURTHER WORK RECOMMENDED: FURTHER WORK RECCOMENDED:

47
 USEFUL REFERENCE DATA NOTES:


Frame Number:

Distinguishing marks:

Accessories fitted:


Tyre size (Found on tyre side wall):
Tyre pressure maximum:

Tyre pressure minimum:




COMPUTER RECORDS


1. DATE & MILEAGE:

2. DATE & MILEAGE:

3. DATE & MILEAGE:
4. DATE & MILEAGE:

5. DATE & MILEAGE:

6. DATE & MILEAGE:

7. DATE & MILEAGE:
8. DATE & MILEAGE

48
NOTES: UK and Eire Guarantee

Length of Guarantee
Bikes supplied to customers in the UK and Eire are guaranteed
against manufacturing defects or defects in materials used from
the date of original purchase for a period of 1 year.

This covers frame, fork and all components.

Guarantee Conditions
This guarantee will apply provided the bike has been cared for, maintained and used
in accordance with the instructions as set out in the Owners Guide and has not been
fitted with parts other than a spare part recommended by a Raleigh dealer. This
guarantee does not cover normal wear and tear, alteration, accident, misuse, improper
maintenance or neglect such as corrosion due to storage outdoors or damp conditions
or commercial use (e.g. hiring).
This bike is guaranteed for normal riding within the activities for which they were
designed. However failures or damage occurring during participation in activities such
as “wheelies”, stunt riding or jumping are not covered by this guarantee.
Raleigh will bear the cost of replacement parts for all claims made in accordance with
this guarantee. Additionally reasonable labour charges incurred within one year of the
date of original sale will be borne by Raleigh provided that proof of purchase is supplied
and an approved dealer has processed the claim.


How to claim

In the event of a guarantee claim contact your original dealer or
place of purchase.

THIS GUARANTEE COVERS THE ORIGINAL PURCHASER ONLY.

HOWEVER, PLEASE PASS THIS OWNERS GUIDE ON TO THE
NEW OWNER IF YOU SELL THE BICYCLE.
THIS GUARANTEE DOES NOT AFFECT YOUR STATUTORY
RIGHTS. THIS BIKE IS DISTRIBUTED BY RALEIGH UK LTD,
CHURCH STREET, EASTWOOD, NOTTINGHAM, NG16 3HT.

49
 NOTES:

50
NOTES:

51
 Did you know? We’re much more than just a bike brand.
We also stock thousands of parts and accessories from leading
brands, distributing them to hundreds of the UK’s cycle stores.

Buy ON-LINE or
CLICK AND COLLECT in store [Link]
RaleighBikesUK RALEIGH UK LTD Photos in part from
the Haynes Bike Book.
Church Street, Eastwood, Nottingham, NG16 3HT J.H. Haynes & Co. Ltd
and Raleigh UK Ltd, 1999
@RaleighBikes_UK Telephone: 01773 532600 [Link]