Machine Setup Guide

PrintVersion1.02
 1. Foreword
This Machine Setup Guide is intended as an additional reference to the Operating
Manual that is provided with the machine, not as a substitute. Under no circumstance
should you use the machine without reading the Operation Manual first.

The correct operating procedures are described within the Operation Manual and
these must be rigidly adhered to, along with the guidelines described for safety. In
addition to this there is a significant amount of important information to be found in
the Operation Manual that is not covered by this Machine Setup Guide including
specific information for your particular machine. This Setup Guide is functional for a
variety of Hammer machines.

Safety First

Before every use of the machine, perform the safety checks that are detailed in the
Operation Manual for your particular machine. It is also important to understand that
even with all of the appropriate safety devices correctly installed, there are still risks
remaining. Any potential operators of the machine should be fully aware of these
risks and must also have read the Operation Manual before using the machine.

Never perform any adjustments to the machine with the tool running. Always switch
off the machine before making adjustments. Never work when you are tired and
always apply common sense to your working techniques in addition to those
techniques outlined in the Operation Manual.

©2005 HAMMER - Errors and modifications of technical data reserved at any time,
always use the safety devices provided with the machine.

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Page
- Front Page

1 Start - Foreword

2 Contents

5 Introduction

6 An Overview of the Process

7 Delivery

8 How the Machine Will be Delivered

9 What You Will Need

9 Powering Up
10 For Basic Machine Checks

11 Removal From the Pallet

12 Pallet Fixings
13 Creating a Ramp
14 The Pallet jack
15 Pallet jack Dimensions

16 Positioning Your Machine

17 Extraction

18 Cleaning the Machine

19 Cleaner for Plastics / Tooling

20 Metall Glanz / Guideways and Spindle Fluid
21 Super Gleit

22 Assembly

23 Extension Tables
29 Rip Fence Guide Bar
32 Sliding Table

36 Basic Machine Checks to Make

37 How to Make 5 Sided Cut

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Contents (2)

39 - 84 Machine Alignments

40 - 66 Saws
67 - 72 Shapers
73 - 79 Joiners
80 - 82 Planers
83 - 84 Mortisers (for combination machines)
40 - 84 All

85 Machine Adjustments / Further Info.

86 - 87 SS01 Free cut from Sliding Table

88 - 91 SS02 Sliding Table Centre Locked Position *also see Page 92*
93 - 94 SS03 Sliding Table End Positions *also see Page 92*
95 - 98 SS04 Outrigger Table
99 - 100 SS05 Crosscut Fence on Outrigger, Position A
101 - 102 SS06 Crosscut Fence on Outrigger, Position B
103 - 105 SS07 Calibration of the Crosscut Fence Scale
106 - 109 SS08 Angled Cut From Outrigger
110 - 111 SS09 Short Crosscut Fence
112 - 113 SR01 Cast Iron Table
114 - 116 SR01.1 Rip Capacity Extension Tables
117 - 118 SR02 Saw / Shaper Extension Table
119 - 120 SR03 Rip Fence Squareness
121 - 124 SR04 + SR05 Rip Fence Free cut
125 SR07 Alignment of Saw Blade at 90°
126 SR08 Alignment of Saw Blade at 45°
127 - 128 SR09 Calibration of the Scale
129 - 130 SC01 Alignment of Scoring Blade
131 SH02 Shaper Spindle Alignment at 90°
132 SH03 Shaper Spindle Alignment at 45°
133 SH04 + SH05 Shaper Fence
134 - 138 JR02 Outfeed Table to Cutterbock
139 - 141 JR03 Knives to Outfeed Table
142 - 144 JR04Infeed Table to Outfeed Table
145 JR06 Joiner Test Cuts
146 JR07 Snipe Check
147 PL01 Planer Test
148 PL02 Test for Snipe
149 PL03 Feed Rollers

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Contents (3)

150 Completion - You’re Good To Go

151 FAQ’s

152 Links

153 Contact Details

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Congratulations on your purchase and welcome to the world of HAMMER

woodworking machinery!

Through the co-operation of professional carpenters and specialists in research and

development, we have managed to create a unique range of woodworking machines
for the discerning craftsman.

The HAMMER series combines all the important characteristics of woodworking

machines in a number of forms: 4-in-1 combinations, 2-in-1 combinations or single
[Link] addition to this, an extensive range of accessories and tools leaves
nothing to be desired.
You can be sure that with your new HAMMER woodworking machine you can
achieve precise, outstanding results every time.

This booklet is aimed at helping you to achieve the highest standards possible in
woodworking, by furthering your understanding of the machinery that you will use to
do so.
Everything involved in the setup of your machine from delivery through assembly and
calibration, all of the equipment and materials you will need, to when you are ready to
produce the very first precision workpiece is covered in this booklet.
You will also find this an invaluable asset in keeping your machine in top condition for
many years to come as it provides reference information that can be accessed at any
time.

Please take the time to study this booklet prior to the delivery of your machine, so
that once it arrives, no time will be wasted in getting you up and running with your
new HAMMER woodworking machine.

Enjoy your new machine,

From everyone at HAMMER!

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Overview

The Machine is manufactured, assembled and rigourously quality controlled at the

factory in Austria.

The machine is fully calibrated and test cuts are made before it is packed for
shipping.

The machine is then shipped out to you.

The machine is delivered

You unpack the machine from the container(s) and study the Operation Manual

You then remove the machine from the pallet

Only after reading the Operation Manual, clean all components of preserving oils

Assemble the machine, position it and connect it to the extraction system

Perform some basic checks to ensure accuracy and for peace of mind

Start enjoying your new Hammer!

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Before We Ship Anything…

Your machine has been manufactured, assembled and rigorously quality controlled at
our factory in Austria. The machine was fully assembled and fully calibrated,
including making test cuts. Once the quality controlling was completed (Homologation
to GS and CE - a guarantee for high quality and safe machines!), it was packed for
shipping, including treatment with preserving oils to protect the surfaces from
corrosion and to help ensure that the machine will arrive in perfect condition

Delivery

The machine will be delivered in a protective cardboard enclosure. Check for any
signs of obvious damage to this enclosure, or for signs of tampering. Machines with
sliding tables of length in excess of 78"(2 meters) will have the sliding table shipped
in a separate container.
An agreement between the FELDER Group and the shipping companies in the U.S.
means that you, as a receiver, are allowed to inspect the shipment(s) for any kind of
damage for 30 minutes upon arrival. This agreement also stipulates that any claims
filed after this time will not be honored by the shipper.
In the unlikely instance that you believe there is or may be a damaged machine,
article or component, please contact FELDER without delay so that this may be
further clarified and if necessary, further action taken.

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Pictured above; the machine packed in enclosure, pallet and box size may vary

Pictured above; the sliding table in protective packaging

Once you are satisfied that everything is present and correct, sign for the delivery
and begin the installation process!

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[Link] You
Will Need

What You Will Need to Get Going

Cutting knife
Torx head bits
Power drill
Wrenches
13mm, 17mm Sockets and ratchet drive
Screwdrivers, Flat and Crossheaded
Electrical provision*
Board, 2ft x 4ft x ½”
Board, 2” x 4” x 2ft
Pallet jack
An assistant (for sliding table assembly and to help bring the machine down
from it’s pallet)

*Powering Up

All new Hammer machines arrive with approximately 0,5 meters of cord and no
plug, due to the number of variations in plugs/sockets across the market.
These machines will therefore require a plug suitable for the electrical system
you already have installed.
Standard Breaker size is 30A. Please consult your electrican for details on
arranging this
[Link] You
Will Need

For Making Basic Machine Checks:

Requirements listed by machine type:

For Saws;
Approx. 3ft x 3ft board (at least ½” thickness for ease)
Vernier calipers
Tape Measure
Precision square
45° Engineering Angle / Miter Gauge / Angle gauge
1 Meter Straight edge

For Shapers;
Precision square
45° Engineering Angle / Miter Gauge / Angle gauge

For Joiner / Planers;

Approx. 3ft x 2” x 4” boards; 2 of
Vernier calipers
Feeler gauge

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The Pallet

Removing the machine from the pallet

The cardboard enclosure can be removed by cutting through the plastic ties and
pulling the cardboard away from the pallet wherever it is secured.

The machine comes wrapped in a preserving plastic film to protect the cast iron
tables and to secure some of the accessory boxes. Pull off the plastic film or carefully
cut through it, avoiding scratching the machine or cutting through any cables.

Cardboard boxes that sit on the pallet were stapled to the pallet whilst the box
was still open, so these should be emptied of their contents before pulling up the box,
this will avoid the contents falling through the bottom of the box when pulling the box
off full.

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The Pallet

You will need a power drill and a torx head bit to remove the screws that secure the
machine to the pallet. Extension tables that do not come assembled and rip fence
guide bars will also be screwed down onto the pallet. Once these are removed and
the rest of the pallet is cleared- check underneath the machine as well - you can
remove the machine from the pallet.

Remove all torx screws before

moving or pulling up machine
and components

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The Pallet
To remove the machine from the pallet you will need some boards, similar to those
pictured below, a pallet jack and ideally another person to help ensure the
machine comes down from the pallet smoothly and safely.

Creating a Ramp

You may also wish to fix the ramp together with its supporting boards, especially
necessary if the ramp seems unsteady or if it does not quite match up to the same
height as the pallet. An example is shown with 6 fixing points.

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The Pallet

The Pallet Jack

The dimensions of the pallet jack are of obvious significance, because if the forks
are too wide or too tall (when fully lowered), they won’t fit underneath the machine.
NOTE: for Joiner planers, it is almost unavoidable having to use only one of the fork
legs. This will therefore require more care and definitely some assistance in bringng
the machine into place. Take extra care not to pull the machine by the tables
otherwise their alignment could be affected. Try where possible to use the chassis of
the machine to manouvre it.

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The Pallet

The approximate dimensions of the pallet jack are shown below:

Check with your Hammer representative if you are uncertain whether your particular
pallet jack will fit your new Hammer machine.

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Your New
Machine

Positioning Your New Machine

Once the machine is fully assembled and ready to go, you can position it where it
will be best suited to the tasks that you want to achieve. The layout of your shop
should have at least some form of direction. That is to say from loading stock
material to final finishing there should be a distinct process direction in order to
achieve maximum efficiency during busy periods. Reducing the number of times a
part or workpiece is handled will go a long way to improving build time and will also
contribute towards quality control. However, there are always space and shape
restrictions and not everyone is blessed with a purpose built woodworking shop, so a
compromise on efficiency may well be necessary.

To make certain that you get the most out of your machine, make sure that there is
easy access to the operating sides of the machine and that sliding tables or joiner
tables are not restricted in their travel. Where outrigger tables are included, make
sure this can be used without interference, including the use of the crosscut fence.
Check that the entire capacity of the machine can be used for the materials you will
be processing. In particular, make sure the infeed and outfeed sides of the machine
are suitably clear for the sizes of materials you intend to process. The machine
should ideally be placed on a flat surface and leveling it will also be beneficial. Check
that the position of the machine is also compatible with the extraction facility you
presently have or intend to install.

Also of great importance is that the working area has no hazards at floor level – or
even head level, as this will obviously make using the machine hazardous and
unsafe. Appropriate lighting should be considered, as should ventilation for when the
workload steps up a pace or two! All in all the environment should be conducive to
precision woodworking.

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Extraction

Hopefully by now you will already have an extraction system in place, or have
organised an appropriate extraction solution for when you are ready to begin
machining. It would be unwise to begin machining without suitable extraction already
in place as this would not only be a health hazard but will also impair the quality of
the workpieces you can produce on your new Hammer. Your Hammer representative
can offer further information about the extraction solutions that would be best suited
to your needs.

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The Machine

Cleaning and Protecting the Machine

Once the machine is assembled and ready to be checked for calibration, it should be
cleaned thouroughly to remove the various preserving oils that are left on the
machine. This will also ensure maximum possible accuracy during the calibration
process and will allow test cuts to be made under proper working conditions.

Once cleaned, surface protectants should be used to protect the machine against
corrosion and to aid various woodworking processes.

Disposable, strong paper towels are most appropriate for this job as they will end up
very dirty and greasy.
FELDER offer specialized cleaning fluids and treatments specifically for this purpose:

Universal Cleaner

Ideal for cleaning new machines, the Universal Cleaner is a very strong cleaning
substance. It removes dirt, grease, and oil from treated surfaces in seconds. The
Universal Cleaner does not affect textiles, plastics, rubber or paint. It comes in a solid
spray container with an adjustable nozzle; contents: 0,5 liter. The spray bottle can
be refilled with a convenient 3 liter container.

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The Machine

Cleaner for Plastics

The all purpose detergent for workshop, car, house and office in a handy spray
bottle!
The FELDER Cleaner for plastics is an all purpose detergent for all kind of plastics.
Whatever you use it for – to clean decorative chipboards or boards with laminated
plastic, for machine components, inside or outside cleaning of the car, or to clean
plastics in the house or in the office – even very dirty plastics will appear new again

Harzlöser

Removes resin easily from saw blades, tools and machine-elements! Solid spray
container, adjustable nozzle; contents: 0,5 liter. The spray bottle can be refilled
with a convenient 3 liter container.

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The Machine

Metall Glanz

Metall-Glanz protects metal surfaces from corrosion. It is a high performance long-

term Corrosion Protectant and free of silicones. Metall-Glanz is not aggressive
against textiles, plastics, rubber or paint. It comes in a solid spray container with an
adjustable nozzle; contents: 0,5 liter. The spray bottle can be refilled with a
convenient 3 liter container.

Guideways and Spindle Fluid

The Guideways and Spindle Fluid is ideal for all guidetracks, roller guideways and
moving spindles. It is transparent and helps to repel dust and chips. The Guideways
and Spindle Fluid contains no silicones and has a low friction factor ensuring slick
movement of all treated guideways.

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The Machine

Super Gleit

Moist and wet timbers have a high resistance and are difficult to machine. Super-
Gleit greatly reduces the gliding resistance of timber when shaping, surface and
thickness planing. Super-Gleit contains no water or silicone particles ensuring that no
residues remain on the timber. This enables later surface treatment without problem.
Comes in a solid spray container with an adjustable nozzle; contents: 0,5 liter.

Note Regarding Sliding Tables

To prolong the life of your sliding table and to keep it working it top condition, keep
the guideways clean and free from dust.
HAMMER recommend Super Gleit for cleaning the guideways, but the tracks
must be kept dry, so after applying the lubricant, wipe it off otherwise dust and dirt
will cling to the surface.

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Assembly of your Machine

Depending on the chosen configuration of your machine, it may be necessary to

assemble various components, for example; sliding tables and rip-fence guide bars.
Assembly details are always supplied with these parts, please see the assembly
diagrams for finer details of the components. The following text and pictures provide
additional information which may be useful to you during the assembly process, as
well as page references to the Alignment information Adjustment pages.

- p23 Extension Tables

- p29 Rip Fence Guide Bar

- p32 Sliding Tables

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Extension tables

Alignment: Page 57 Adjustment: Page 114

Using the exploded assembly diagrams supplied with the machine, determine the
correct screws to use for the extension table(s). Begin as shown in the picture below
with the support members. Note: Machines with 48" (1250mm) rip capacity also
have an additional support member not shown in the pictures below, but in later steps.

(picture shows full length 31" (800mm) Rip capacity)

Continued…

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(picture shows support for half length 31" (800mm) Rip capacity)

Access to the inside of the machine can be gained by removing the access panel at
the front of the machine or the back (shapers have access door provided at the
rear). The picture below shows the electrical box being removed to gain access.

Continued…

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For machines with additional rip capacity of 48" (1250mm), additional supports need
to be assembled (see next step).

For machines with 31" (800mm) capacity, once the supports are in place, with the
screws in location, the table can placed on top of the screws and brought into
alignment with the cast iron table, ideally using a straight edge as shown below. The
exact alignment details can be found in tolerancing information.

(picture showing full length 31"(800mm) Rip capacity)

Continued…

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(picture shows half-length 31"(800mm) Rip capacity)

Continued…
(Adjusting the table to match the height of the cast iron table) 26
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For machines with 48"(1250mm) rip capacity, an additional bar must be assembled to the
front support arm. Once this is assembled the 31"(800mm) table can be brought into place
and aligned correctly to the cast iron table before moving on.

Continued…

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Start by securing the table at the two fixing points between the two tables, then at the
support arm to table point.

Once the table is in place it can be aligned correctly using a straight edge

When everything is assembled, you may wish to check that it is all within the stated
tolerances before moving on to attach the rip fence guide bar
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Rip Fence Guide Bar

Alignment: Page 60 Adjustment: Page 121

Once the tables are in place and adjusted correctly, the rip fence guide bar can be
installed. Start by lining up the screws on the guide bar with holes provided in the
chassis and the extension tables. Make sure that the arrangement of the screws,
nuts and washers is the same as that displayed in the exploded assembly diagram.
Also adhere to the height information given in the diagram for the rip fence (from the
cast iron table).
The procedure is the same for round (800mm rip capacity) or rectangular (700mm rip
capacity) section.

(showing round guide bar)

Continued…

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(correct arrangement of screws)

Also make sure that the spherical washers sit on the inside of the cast iron table,
where it is not machined. The machined side only requires a washer and nut.
Tighten the two screws that attach the guide bar to the cast iron table first, checking
the alignment as described in the adjustment and tolerancing information, then work
outwards along the guide bar to secure it across it’s entire length.

Continued…

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The rip fence side is complete!

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Sliding Table Assembly

Alignment: Page 48 Adjustment: Page 88

17mm wrench and Cross-head Screwdriver

To assemble the sliding table to the machine chassis, you will ideally need someone
to help you lift the table out of the container and into situe on the edge of the chassis,
as shown in figure ST01.1. If no help is available, then the best help you can give
yourself is to support one end of the table as shown in Fig.ST01.1 whilst you guide
the table into place over the screwheads.

Figure ST01.1 Sliding table in place ready to be slotted over the securing screws

Continued…

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Once in situe, carefully guide the sliding table over the securing screws as shown in
figure ST01.2. If the sliding table does not slide onto the screws easily, make sure the
sliding table is being held level and that the screw head is turned so that two of its
side faces are parallel to the inside of the sliding table channel.

ST01.2 Sliding table sliding into

place over the screw heads

Carefully push the sliding table over all of the screwheads, being careful not to catch
your fingers in the process! Figure ST01.3

Figure ST01.3 Sliding the table all the way along

Continued…

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The correct position of the sliding table is determined by first unlocking the sliding
part of the table and moving it to the very front of it’s travel, as shown in figure
ST01.4. The front of the sliding table should be level with the start of the cut-out
section in the black plastic insert.

Figure ST01.4 Front of the sliding table travel

This position can be verified by moving the slding table to the very end of the travel,
where the sliding table should stop with the back edge of the table level with the
centre, or axis, of the saw blade. This is shown in figure ST01.5.

Figure ST01.5 Sliding table at the end of

travel, back edge level with saw axis

Continued…

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When you are happy that the sliding table is in the correct position, lock it down by
tightening the top nut on each screw only, leaving the two on either side of the
chassis alone (otherwise you will alter the alignment of the sliding table to the cast
iron table). This screw is shown in figure ST01.6

Figure ST01.6 Showing the three locking nuts. ONLY

use the top one to lock the slding table in place!

After the sliding table locke down, you can assemble the end plate(s) to the bed of
the slding table, shown in figure ST01.7

ST01.7 Coverplates for sliding table bed

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Machine
Checks

The Fast-Track to Machining

Before the machine left the factory in Austria, all possible adjustments on the
machine had been made and checked. A complete overhaul will therefore not be
necessary! However, for peace of mind there are several basic checks which you can
make that will verify that after the transport, delivery, assembly and positioning has
been done, the machine still works accurately. Follow these links:
Saws
1. 90° Crosscut Fence, (SS05)..................................... Page: 51
2. 45° Crosscut Fence, (SS08)..................................... Page: 54
3. Angle of Sawblade at 90° (both sides) (SR07)......... Page: 63
4. Angle of Sawblade at 45° (both sides) (SR08)......... Page: 64
5. Rip fence scale (SR09)............................................. Page: 65
6. Crosscut scale (SS07).............................................. Page: 53
7. Cut quality. The cut should be clean, with no breakout on the top surface and
none on the bottom when using the scoring blade. The cut should only be
made at the front of the blade, not by the teeth at the back of the saw blade.

Shapers
1. 90° Spindle to cast iron (SH02)................................. Page: 68
2. 45° Spindle to cast iron table (SH03)........................ Page: 69
3. Cut quality. The finish should be uniform along the length of the workpiece.

Joiners
1. Join two boards: Convex or straight (JR06).............. Page: 78
2. No snipe (JR07)........................................................ Page: 79
3. Cut quality. The finish should be smooth, the surface flat and unmarked.

Planers
1. Equal thickness on both sides of the table (PL01).... Page: 80
2. No snipe (PL02)........................................................ Page: 81
3. Cut quality. The finish should be smooth, the surface flat and unmarked.

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How To
Make a
5-Sided Cut
Check

How to Make a 5 Sided Cut

Being with a board, ideally 1000mm x 1000mm, preferably of MDF as the chippings
from cutting a board of chipboard can interfere with the result if not done carefully.
You will also need a pair of vernier calipers to accurately measure the off-cut, and a
13mm wrench to adjust the 90° crosscut stop if necessary.

Place the board on the outrigger table against the fence and label each side 1, 2, 3
and 4. Side number one can also be given an arrow to indicate the direction of the
offcut once it is made.

Continued…

37
How To
Make a
5-Sided Cut
Check

Cut each side of the board in numerical order, you only need to trim off 6mm or so
each time. The numbering works so that the fresh cut face of the board always goes
against the crosscut fence. Continue until you reach number 1 side again and this
time take off approximately 1" / 25mm.

Measure each end of the offcut. If the workpiece does not have the arrow on at this
stage it can easily lead to an incorrect judgement of how the crosscut fence is
presently aligned. See the alignment and adjustments sections for further details of
accuracy.

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Alignments
This section contains all of the alignments and tolerancing information relevant to
each of the machine checks. At the top of each page where applicable, underneath
the Hammer logo, you will find an Adjustment page reference which will lead you
directly to a description, with diagrams and photographs of how the adjustment on
the machine can be made. Please note: the diagrams are for illustrative purposes
only.

The machines are calibrated at the factory well within these operating tolerances, but
occasionally, due to lengthy transport and frequent handling, some elements of the
machine may require a minor refinement.

39
Alignments

SA01 Saftey Cover Check

Test Point Unit type Tolerance

When the cover is open, the machine - -
cannot be started

40
Alignments

SA02 Emergency Stop Button Check

Test Point Unit type Tolerance

Machine cannot be started whilst button - -
is depressed. Button stays depressed
when pushed and unlocks by twisting.
Check all.

41
Alignments

SA03 Planer Hood Safety Switch

Test Point Unit type Tolerance

When the extractor hood is lifted, the - -
machine cannot be started

42
Alignments

EX01 Additional Extension Tables

Check the alignment of the extension table at it’s mounting points and at the
extremity of the table.

Test Point Unit type Tolerance

Parallel to the table it is mounted on Metric 0.0mm to 0.40mm
(below mounting table) Imperial 0.000” to 0.016”

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Alignments Adjustment: p 86

SS01 Free cut from the Sliding Table

Sliding table should be further away from the blade at position 2

Test Point Unit type Tolerance

Increase from 1 to 2 of Metric 0.05mm to 0.10mm
(over Ø300mm Saw Blade) Imperial 0.002” to 0.004”

44
Alignments Adjustment: p 86

Checking the Freecut Without a Dial Indicator

It is possible to setup the freecut on a saw without a dial indicator, however it will not
be possible to adust it to as high a level of accuracy.

The knock-on effect of this will mostly impact saws with scoring / slitting blades. If the
freecut is not the same on either side of the saw, then when you come to use the
scoring blade, the scoring cut will be very slightly different depending on which fence
you cut from.

To start with, we shall look at setting up the sliding table free cut.

Using a board of width at least equal to the saw blades diameter (if not greater),
make a cut off the crosscut fence through the board, then once the back edge of the
workpiece has passed the front tooth of the saw, stop the saw and isolate the
machine, for added safety. Be very careful not to move the workpiece. It should then
be in the same position as shown in figure FC01.1.

FC01.1 Checking freecut on the sliding table

Continued…

45
Alignments Adjustment: p 86

It may be blatantly obvious if the back tooth is touching the workpiece, in which case,
follow the link to the adjustment page.

Very carefully, rotate the saw blade and look to see of the back tooth of the saw is
touching the workpiece. Rotate the blade until you find the closest point to the
workpiece. There should be less than a hairs breadth between the sawblade and the
workpiece at the back tooth at this point. It should not however, be touching the
workpiece. Adjust the freecut as necessary (follow link).

To check the free cut on the rip fence side, you will need a board approximately as
long as the rip fence. Make a cut off the rip fence through the board, but stop before
the back edge of the workpiece reaches the back tooth of the saw blade. This is
shown in figure FC01.2. Stop the saw and isolate the machine for additional safety.

FC01.2 Rip fence freecut step one

Continued…

46
Alignments Adjustment: p 86

Keeping the rip fence in the same position, now turn over the workpiece so that it
faces the opposite direction, as shown in FC01.3.

FC01.3 Rip fence freecut step two

It should be possible to slide the workpiece onto the saw blade from the back, whilst
keeping the workpiece against the rip fence. If you cannot do this then the rip fence
freecut will either be too much or not at all (toe-in). Adjust it closer if necessary.

With the workpiece in the position shown in FC01.3 and against the rip fence,
carefully rotate the saw blade to see if the back tooth hits the workpiece on the rip
fence side of the cut. The rip fence side of the cut should be clear of the back tooth
by less than a hairs breadth, but definately not touching. Follow the link to the
adjustment page as necessary.

47
Alignments Adjustment: p 88

SS02 Sliding Table - Centre Locked Position

Check the gap at points 1, 2, 3 and 4 with a feeler guage.

Test Point Unit type Tolerance
Sliding table above the cast iron table Metric 0.0mm to 0.35mm
Imperial 0.000” to 0.014”

48
Alignments Adjustment: p 93

SS03 Sliding Table - End Positions

Test Point Unit type Tolerance

Sliding table above the cast iron table Metric 0.0mm to 0.40mm
Imperial 0.000” to 0.016”

49
Alignments Adjustment: p 95

SS04 Outrigger Table

Check for any gap between the straight edge and the sliding table at points 1, 2, 3
and 4.

Test Point Unit type Tolerance

Maximum permissible gaps at 1, 2, 3 and 4 Metric +/- 0.3mm
Imperial +/- 0.012”

50
Alignments Adjustment: p 99

SS05 Crosscut Fence on Outrigger, Position A

Measure length of sides X and Y after making cuts A and B. Ideally, make cuts A and
B 1000mm apart

Test Point Unit type Tolerance

Difference between X and Y to be within Metric +/- 0.2mm per 1000mm
Imperial +/- 0.008” per 1000mm

51
Alignments Adjustment: p 101

SS06 Crosscut Fence on Outrigger, Position B

Measure length of sides X and Y after making cuts A and B. Ideally, make cuts A and
B 1000mm apart

Test Point Unit type Tolerance

Difference between X and Y to be within Metric +/- 0.2mm per 1000mm
Imperial +/- 0.008” per 1000mm

52
Alignments Adjustment: p 103

SS07 Crosscut Fence Scales

Check the accuracy of the crosscut fence scales. Make a cut and measure the
boards new length.

Test Point Unit type Tolerance

Lengths X and Y equal to readout on scale Metric +/- 0.5mm
Imperial +/- 0.020”

53
Alignments Adjustment: p 106

SS08 Angled Cut From Outrigger

Check the alignment of the 45° position on the outrigger angle scale.

Test Point Unit type Tolerance

From point 1 to 2 Metric +/- 0.1mm
(From 1000mm x 500mm, 45° angle) Imperial +/- 0.004”

54
Alignments Adjustment: p 110

SS09 Short Crosscut Fence (Not on Outrigger)

Make cuts A and B 1000mm apart and measure lengths X and Y

Test Point Unit type Tolerance

Difference between X and Y Metric +/- 0.3mm per 1000mm
Imperial +/- 0.012” per 1000mm

55
Alignments Adjustment: p 112

SR01 Cast Iron Table

With a straight edge and a feeler guage, check the alignment of the cast iron table at
the 11 positions in the two diagrams shown above

Test Point Unit type Tolerance

Maximum permissible gap Metric 0.0mm to0.25mm
Imperial 0.000” to 0.010”

56
Alignments Adjustment: p 114

SR01.1 Rip Capacity Extension Tables

All extension tables should be aligned to the cast iron table, using a straight edge
and a feeler guage. Check the alignment across the whole of the table using a
straight edge and a feeler guage to ascertain the difference in height between the
two.

For the rip fence extension table, make checks at the points indicated above with a
straight edge and feeler guage.

Test Point Unit type Tolerance

Parallel to cast iron table Metric 0.0mm to 0.40mm
(Extension table below cast iron) Imperial 0.000” to 0.016”

57
Alignments Adjustment: p 117

SR02 Saw / Shaper Extension Table

For the extension table to the shaper, make checks at the places indicated above
with a feeler guage. Also check that there is no collision with the sliding table at any
point.

Test Point Unit type Tolerance

Points 2 and 3 Metric 0.0mm to0.20mm
(Extension table below cast iron) Imperial 0.000” to 0.008”

Point 1 Metric +/- 0.5mm

Imperial 0.020”

58
Alignments Adjustment: p 119

SR03 Rip Fence Squareness

Check the squareness of the rip fence. Any gap is only acceptable at the top.

Test Point Unit type Tolerance

Maximum permissible gap (top only) Metric 0.0mm to 0.18mm
Imperial 0.000” to 0.007”

59
Alignments Adjustment: p 121

SR04 Rip Fence Free cut at 90°

From point 1 to 2 there should be an increase in the distance between the saw blade
and the rip fence.

Test Point Unit type Tolerance

Increase from 1 to 2 of Metric 0.05mm to 0.10mm
(over Ø300mm Saw Blade) Imperial 0.002” to 0.004”

60
Alignments Adjustment: p 121

SR05 Free cut Across All Tables

Check the free-cut across the entire rip capacity. With a Ø300mm Saw blade.

Test Point Unit type Tolerance

Increase from 1 to 2 of Metric 0.05mm to 0.10mm
(over Ø300mm Saw Blade) Imperial 0.002” to 0.004”

61
Alignments

SR06 Rip Fence Free cut at 45°

Check the free-cut with the sawblade tilted to 45°

Test Point Unit type Tolerance

Increase from 1 to 2 of Metric 0.05mm to 0.10mm
(over Ø300mm Saw Blade) Imperial 0.002” to 0.004”

62
Alignments Adjustment: p 125

SR07 Saw Blade Alignment at 90°

Using an engineers square, 200mm long, check for any space at positions 1 and 2.

Test Point Unit type Tolerance

Permissible gap per 200mm Metric 0.00mm to 0.20mm
Imperial 0.000” to 0.008”

63
Alignments Adjustment: p 126

SR08 Saw Blade Alignment at 45°

Using to two workpieces, place the 45° cuts together to create a miter joint. Using an
engineers square, 200mm long, check for any space at positions 1 and 2.

Test Point Unit type Tolerance

Permissable gap per 200mm Metric 0.00mm to 0.20mm
Imperial 0.000” to 0.008”

64
Alignments Adjustment: p 127

SR09 Calibration of the Scale

Check the calibration of the Rip side scale

Test Point Unit type Tolerance

Width X equal to readout on scale Metric +/- 0.50mm
Imperial +/- 0.020”

65
Alignments Adjustment: p 129

SC01 Scoring Blade Alignment (where applicable)

Make a cut part way through a board and stop the saw. Inspect the cut on the board.

Test Point Unit type Tolerance

Scoring blade slightly wider than sawblade Metric 0.0mm to 0.20mm
and centered, S equal to:
Imperial 0.000” to 0.008”

66
Alignments

SH01 Shaper Spindle Run-out

Measure the run-out of the shaper spindle at two positions with a dial indicator.

Test Point Unit type Tolerance

Run-out at point 1 Metric 0.0mm to 0.03mm
Imperial 0.000” to 0.0012”

Run-out at point 2 Metric 0.0mm to 0.02mm

Imperial 0.000” to 0.0008”

67
Alignments Adjustment: p 131

SH02 Shaper Spindle Alignment at 90°

Using an engineers square and a feeler gauge, check the 90° alignment of the
spindle in the two planes indicated above.

Test Point Unit type Tolerance

Permissable gap at 1 or 2 Metric 0.0mm to 0.20mm
Imperial 0.000” to 0.008”

68
Alignments Adjustment: p 132

SH03 Shaper Spindle Alignment at 45°

Using a 45° engineering angle (or an angle gauge set to 135°) and a feeler gauge,
check the 45° tilt position.

Test Point Unit type Tolerance

Permissable gap at 1 or 2 Metric 0.0mm to 0.20mm
Imperial 0.000” to 0.008”

69
Alignments Adjustment: p 133

SH04 Shaper Fences

Test Point Unit type Tolerance

Permissable gap at any of the above points Metric 0.0mm to 0.20mm
Imperial 0.000” to 0.008”

70
Alignments Adjustment: p 133

SH05 Shaper Fence Alignment

With a straight edge, check to see that the two fences are aligned parallel to each
other at the above 4 points.

Test Point Unit type Tolerance

Permissable gap at any of the above points Metric 0.0mm to 0.15mm
Imperial 0.000” to 0.006”

71
Alignments

SH06 Shaper Rings ;Alignment of

Using a straight edge and a feeler gauge.

Test Point Unit type Tolerance

Flush with the cast iron table within Metric 0.0mm to -0.10mm
Imperial 0.000” to -0.004”

72
Alignments

JR01 Safety Guard Operation

Test Point Unit type Tolerance

Spring loaded up and down movement, - -
adjustable height.

Test Point Unit type Tolerance

Safety guard able to be moved left and - -
right across table and locked into
position

73
Alignments Adjustment: p 134

JR02 Outfeed Table to Cutterblock

Check the alignment of the outfeed table for parallelism to the cutterblock. Measure
at points 1 and 2 the height X.

Test Point Unit type Tolerance

Height difference from 1 to 2 Metric 0.0mm to 0.1mm
Imperial 0.000” to 0.004”

Overall height from cutterblock Metric 0.7mm to 0.9mm

Imperial 0.028” to 0.036”

74
Alignments Adjustment: p 139

JR03 Knives to Outfeed Table

Check the height of the knives at the three fixing points on the cutterblock.

Test Point Unit type Tolerance

Knife height at 1, 2 and 3 Metric 0.0mm to 0.05mm
Imperial 0.000” to 0.002”

Knife alignment from 1 to 3 Metric 0.0mm to 0.05mm

Imperial 0.000” to 0.002”

75
Alignments Adjustment: p 142

JR04 Infeed Table to Outfeed Table

Test Point Unit type Tolerance

Alignment at points: (use feeler gauge)
1 to 3 Metric 0.0mm to 0.25mm
Imperial 0.000” to 0.010”
4 to 6 Metric 0.0mm to 0.25mm
Imperial 0.000” to 0.010”
7 to 9 Metric 0.0mm to 0.25mm
Imperial 0.000” to 0.010”
10 to 12 Metric 0.0mm to 0.25mm
Imperial 0.000” to 0.010”
13 to 15 Metric 0.0mm to 0.25mm
Imperial 0.000” to 0.010”
16 to 18 Metric 0.0mm to 0.25mm
Imperial 0.000” to 0.010”

76
Alignments

JR05 Planer Fence

Test Point Unit type Tolerance

Maximum permissable gap between Metric 0.0mm to 0.15mm
square and fence
Imperial 0.000” to 0.006”

77
Alignments Adjustment: p 145

JR06 Joiner Test Cuts

Test Point Unit type Tolerance

Gap in the middle, X Metric 0.0mm to 0.20mm
Imperial 0.000” to 0.010”

78
Alignments Adjustment: p 146

JR07 Snipe Check

Test Point Unit type Tolerance

Target = No snipe Metric -
Imperial -

79
Alignments Adjustment: p 147

PL01 Planer Test

Check the thickness of workpieces 1 and 2 with vernier calipers.

Test Point Unit type Tolerance

310mm table, thickness difference from 1 to 2 Metric +/- 0.10mm
Imperial +/- 0.004”
410mm table, thickness difference from 1 to 2 Metric +/- 0.015mm
Imperial +/- 0.006”

80
Alignments Adjustment: p 148

PL02 Test for Snipe

Check workpiece from planer at both ends for snipe.

Test Point Unit type Tolerance

Target = No snipe Metric -
Imperial -

81
Alignments Adjustment: p 149

PL03 Feed Rollers

Plane workpieces with attention to the way in which they are being fed through the
machine.
Test Point Unit type Tolerance
Target = Workpiece to be fed straight through -
the machine, not to be twisted sideways
during travel

82
Alignments

MR01 Mortiser Table, Z axis

Check the alignment of the table to the mortiser bit at the front and back of the table

Test Point Unit type Tolerance

Difference between X and Y Metric +/- 0.20mm
Imperial +/- 0.008”

83
Alignments

MR02 Mortiser Table, X+Y axes

Check the alignment of the table to the mortiser bit with a square and a feeler gauge.

Test Point Unit type Tolerance

Difference from point 1 to point 2 Metric +/- 0.20mm
Imperial +/- 0.008”

84
[Link]

Adjustments
This section contains all of the adjustments relevant to each of the machine checks.
At the top of each page, underneath the hammer logo, you will find an Alignment
page reference which will lead you directly to a description, with diagram(s) of the
alignment and what the corresponding setting should be within.

Before making adjustments to the machine, satisfy yourself that the way in which
you are checking the alignment is correct and does not itself include errors, which
would otherwise produce inaccurate measurements.

Help is always available if the information contained within this Setup Guide does
not help you.

Contact details can be found at the back of this guide.

85
Adjustments Alignment: p 44

SS01 Freecut from the sliding table

To measure the free-cut you will need a dial indicator. Place the indicator on the
sliding table, with the needle touching the saw blade at the front of the blade, but not
the teeth, as shown in figure SS01.1

Figure SS01.1 Start position of the dial indicator

Rotate the saw blade several times and find it’s lowest value. This effectively gives us
a reference point that we will be able to check at the other end of the blade. You can
zero this low-point on the scale or use arithmetic to calculate what the next reading
must be within. For a Ø300mm saw blade, there should be between 0.05mm and
0.1mm of toe-out. (0.002”-0.004” Imperial).

Keeping the dial indicator perfectly stationary on the sliding table, move the sliding
table until the needle of the dial indicator is close to the back tooth of the saw blade,
shown in figure SS01.2. Now rotate the saw blade to find the same low point. This
low-point value subtracted from the previous value equals the current free-cut
amount (LET 0 = 1).
Continued…

86
Adjustments Alignment: p 44

SS01 continued

Figure SS01.2 End position of the dial indicator

If we had zero’d the scale in the previous position, we should now read between
0.90mm and 0.95mm (not 0.05mm-0.10mm as we should be moving away from the
saw blade). (0.096”-0.098” Imperial). Figure SS01.2 shows that the saw blade has
0.004” toe-out to the sliding table.

The toe-out of the sliding table in relation to the saw blade is what provides the ‘free-
cut’. Therefore, the position that the table is tightened down in controls this. The best
way to adjust the table to this level of accuracy is to loosen all lower-most nuts (inside
the chassis) at each point where the sliding table attaches to the chassis. Then,
without yet moving the table, measure the distance between the sliding table and the
cast iron table at the very front and the very back of the cast iron table. This way you
have created a reference from which to move the table before re-tightening it. Try to
move the table at one end only by no more than 0.25mm each time. Re-tighten the
table, check the free-cut again and re-adjut as necessary

This will also then require the sliding table to be checked for it’s alignment to the cast
iron table, once it is re-tighened down. This is covered in the following sections, SS02
and SS03.

87
Adjustments Alignment: p 48

SS02 Centre locked position

The sliding table can be a fairly tricky aspect of the machine to adjust, but if the
following technique is applied it will be possible to adjust the sliding table to within the
tight tolerances specified by the FELDER group.

First, a quick description of the functions of the securing nuts (see figure SS02.1)
1. The main fuction of the rectangular washers is to help to spread the load that
the screw head would otherwise place directly onto the slidng table bed.
2. The function of the top nut is to secure the sliding table bed to the screw
3. The middle nut (just above the chassis) controls the hieght of the sliding table,
moving the nut down will raise the table, moving it up the screw will lower the
table (at that point)
4. The lower nut (underneath the chassis) is for tightening the entire sliding table
assembly to the chassis.

Figure SS02.1 Sliding table securing nuts

Depending on the length of the sliding table, the locations of the adjustments vary
slightly. The permutations are shown in the following diagrams:
Continued…

88
Adjustments Alignment: p 48

SS02 continued

:Long chassis Sliding tables

:Mid to long size sliding tables

Continued…
:Short sliding tables
89
Adjustments Alignment: p 48

SS02 continued

:Shortest sliding tables

Start by loosening the lower and middle nuts that attach the middle of the sliding
table to the chassis. Only the outer 4 points should remain tight. Then place a straight
edge along the tables, as shown in figure SS02.2. Check the alignment of the sliding
table here with the specified tolerances. Make any adjustments with the two fixing
points closest (shown in figure SS02.2)

Continued…

Figure SS02.2 Step One 90

Adjustments Alignment: p 48

SS02 continued

Once that position is correct according to the alignment information, move the
straight edge to the next position, as shown in figure SS02.3. Make the necessary
adjustments in light of the specified tolerances then once correct, move back to the
previously checked position and check the alignment again. It is likely that if
adjustments are made at both positions, because they have an effect on each other,
the first position will now be out of tolerance. Continue to re-adjust and check as
necessary.

Figure SS02.3 Step two

91
Adjustments Alignment
Alignment:Link
p 48

The Sliding Table… A Second Approach

If you find adjusting the sliding table especially difficult then try something slightly
different. This will also work well for cases when the sliding has to be assembled to
the machine and the fixing screws have been either removed or loosened – but in
either case no longer have any useful settings to work with. It may also work better
for longer sliding tables, 6ft in particular.

If you have been trying to adjust the sliding table for hours on end then it is
recommended to loosen the sliding table so that it is not under stress and leave it for
24 hours to prevent any permanent damage being caused.

When re-starting, follow the same procedures as described before but this time begin
with only 3 fixing points, not 4. Try to adjust the slding table with 3 of the 4 points
shown in the graphic illustrations in SS02. This will ensure that the sliding table
begins co-planar and then will not be twisted or distorted by subsequent minor
adjustments.
Once within tolerance – or close to – tighten up the 4th nut, being careful not to
change the current setting. Hand tighten to begin with and make any small
adjustments necessary. Then, where applicable, move to the outer four fixing points
or the inner fixing point. These points are described in SS03, Sliding Table End
Positions.

92
Adjustments Alignment: p 49

SS03 Sliding Table End Positions

Once the sliding table has been adjusted in the centre locked position, we can look at
the table in its end positions. The best way to do this is by putting the sliding table
and the straight edge in the position shown in figure SS03.1. Check the alignment
here and make any adjustment using the centre fixing points also shown in the
picture.

Figure SS03.1 End position 1

When making any adjustments, always check the table at both ends. The other
position is shown in figure SS03.2. Because the two end postions are adjusted at the
same position, if it is not possible to adjust both ends to within tolerance, it is due to a
mis-alignment in the centre locked position. Even if the centre locked position
indicated that both sides were within tolerance, if one side was at the lower limit of
the tolerance and the other at the higher limit, it would cause the sliding table to
move out of tolerance.

Continued…

93
Adjustments Alignment: p 49

SS03 continued

Figure SS03.2 End position 2

94
Adjustments Alignment: p 50

SS04 Outrigger Table

To check the alignment of the outrigger table, you will need a 2000mm straight edge
and a feeler gauge.

Place the straight edge across the outrigger table and the sliding table, starting with
the outrigger arm at 90° to the chassis of the machine. Check to see if there are any
gaps between the straight edge and the sliding table at the points shown in
tolerancing information. Note the alignment here and move the sliding table to the
next position, when the outrigger table is completely in front of the saw blade. Check
the alignment here against the specified tolerances.

Before making any changes, a quick overview of the adjustments available will help
you to understand and adjust the outrigger table easily and quickly.

Figure SS04.1 shows the height adjustment of the outrigger table. Use this only when
the outrigger is too high or too low by a constant amount across the entire travel of
the sliding table.

Figure SS04.1 Height adjustment of the outrigger

Continued…

95
Adjustments Alignment: p 50

SS04 continued

Figure SS04.2 shows the roller adjustments for the extension arm. Only make an
adjustment here when the outrigger table is OK when the arm is at 90°, but is too
high or too low when the extension arm is fully extended. Releasing the nut and
turning the allen screw clockwise will move the arm up and down as the roller is
mounted on an eccentric axis.

Figure SS04.2 Extension arm adjustments

Continued…

96
Adjustments Alignment: p 50

SS04 continued

Figure SS04.3 shows the outrigger arm spindle and where the adjustments can be
made. A misalignment of the spindle can account for several conditions which would
result in the outrigger table not being within tolerance. Figure SS04.4 illustrates two
of these conditions, with reference to the ideal alignment. In particular, the conditions
shown indicate the behavior of the outrigger table when the spindle is mis-aligned in
the plane parallel to the direction of travel of the table.
Imagine another plane at 90° to the front of the chassis of the machine, passing
through the spindle, and if you tilt the spindle forwards or backwards, the outrigger
table will be too high at both ends, but could be okay in the middle, or it could be too
low at both ends but still okay in the middle.

Figure SS04.3 The Outrigger arm Spindle

Continued…

97
Adjustments Alignment: p 50

SS04 continued

Figure SS04.4 Illustrations of possible mis-alignments of the spindle

A combination of the above conditions could be tricky to solve, but applying the
principles above would eventually arrive at the correct alignment.

98
Adjustments Alignment: p 51

SS05 Crosscut Fence on Outrigger, Position A

To check the accuracy of the crosscut fence, perform the test as shown in the
tolerancing information. Alternatively, as most tape measures cannot be accurate
beyond 0.5mm, make a five sided cut and measure the off-cut with a pair of vernier
calipers.

Figure SS05.1 shows the five sided cut for this side of the outrigger, the possible mis-
alignments and the relative position of the crosscut fence (greatly exaggerated!).

Figure SS05.1 Crosscut fence mis-alignments

Continued…

99
Adjustments Alignment: p 51

SS05 continued

To make adjustments to the position of the crosscut fence, the stop in figure SS05.2
must be moved in the appropriate direction. Start by making no more of an
adjustment than a quarter of a revolution to the nuts on either side of the stop. After
tightening, make sure that the stop can still be turned up and down but also so that
there is no play in the stop.

Figure SS05.2 Crosscut fence 90° adjustment

100
Adjustments Alignment: p 52

SS06 Crosscut Fence on Outrigger, Position B

To check the accuracy of the crosscut fence, perform the test as shown in the
tolerancing information. Alternatively, as most tape measures cannot be accurate
beyond 0.5mm, make a five sided cut and measure the off-cut with a pair of vernier
calipers.

Figure SS06.1 shows the five sided cut for this side of the outrigger, the possible mis-
alignments and the relative position of the crosscut fence (greatly exaggerated!).

Figure SS06.1 Five-sided cut and crosscut fence misalignments

Continued…

101
Adjustments Alignment: p 52

SS06 continued
To make adjustments to the position of the crosscut fence, the stop in figure SS06.2
must be moved in the appropriate direction. Start by making no more of an
adjustment than a quarter of a revolution to the nuts on either side of the stop. After
tightening, make sure that the stop can still be turned up and down but also so that
there is no play in the stop.

Figure SS06.2 Crosscut fence 90° adjustment

102
Adjustments Alignment: p 53

SS07 Crosscut Fence Scales

To calibrate the crosscut fence scale(s) you will need a workpiece (say, 12” long) and
an additional measuring instrument, such as a tape measure. Using the crosscut
stop, make a cut through the workpiece; it will be helpful to set the crosscut stop at
an integer position such as 11” or 12”. After the cut is made, compare the width of the
work piece with the readout on the fence scale. The scale can be adjusted by
loosening the allen screw that secures the scale and shifting the scale by the
required amount (shown in figure SS07.1). Tip: Leave the crosscut stop locked in
place and move the scale until the correct reading is shown by the stop.

[Link] that the fence cuts square sides before starting! See SS05 and SS06: 90°
adjustments of the crosscut fence.

Figure SS07.1 Crosscut scale adjustment

If the telescopic extension is in use, check that the scale reads accurately here too.
You will need a workpiece long enough to use the telescopic extension with. Make a
cut using the stop and compare the actual cut width with the readout from the scale.

Continued…

103
Adjustments Alignment: p 53

SS07 continued

Figure SS07.2 Crosscut telescopic extension

If necessary, the stop and block (Figure SS07.2) can moved along the telescopic
extension bar. Figure SS07.3 shows the location of the allen screw which, if
slackened off slightly, will permit the movement of the stop and block. Make an
adjustment to the position of the stop and block and lock it back into place, then re-
check the new alignment.

Continued…

104
Adjustments Alignment: p 53

SS07 continued

Figure SS07.3 Crosscut stop and block adjustment

105
Adjustments Alignment: p 54

SS08 Angled Cut From Outrigger

To adjust the angled cut from the outrigger, you can use a dial indicator and a large
45° angle. However, this can be done without the 45° Angle. You will need a
workpiece (say, 3ft x 10”, with at least 1 straight edge), an angle gauge and a 5mm
Allen key.

The first step would be to move the crosscut fence into the 45°position, from the front
of the outrigger (Figure SS08.1). Lock it down and proceed to make a cut through the
workpiece.

Figure SS08.1 From the front of the outrigger

When the cut is made, bring the angle gauge into place along the side previously
against the fence and the new cut side. The offcut can also be used if the angle
gauge does not permit internal 45° measurements of this size. Be sure to use the
same edges (Fenced surface and cut surface). Figure SS08.2 shows the correct
angles to check. Unless you can be certain the two edges are completely parallel, it
is best to check this way so as not to combine errors.
Continued…

106
Adjustments Alignment: p 54

SS08 continued

Figure SS08.2 The correct angle to check

Note the measured angle, but do not yet make any adjustment as we also need to
check the 45° angle from the other side of the outrigger, as shown in figure SS08.3.
Repeat the cut and measure the 45° angle produced from this position.

Continued…

107
Adjustments Alignment: p 54

SS08 continued

Figure SS08.3 From the back of the outrigger

If, on checking the 45° angle at both sides, the measured angle does not read (at any
time) 45° accurately, the outrigger centre section will have to be adjusted. The
possible adjustments are illustrated in figures SS08.4 and SS08.5. If the 90° crosscut
stops have both been adjusted correctly, then when the fence is locked down at 0° it
should read 0° on the scale. If it does not, then this is a good indication of the
direction the centre section will have to move in order to produce the correct angled
cut.

To make adjustments to the centre section, carefully loosen the allen screws
underneath the outrigger and make a small adjustment (max. 1mm) at a time. After
each adjustment check the new alignment with a test cut and re-adjust as necessary.

For adjusting the miter index, perform all of the previous checks and adjustments for
the scale printed on the centre section, then when this is correct, align the miter index
to the scale until the pin can drop into place at the correct angles each time. Be sure
not to move the centre section once it is correctly aligned however!
Continued…

108
Adjustments Alignment: p 54

SS08 continued

Figure SS08.4 Outrigger adjustments

109
Figure SS08.5 Outrigger adjustments
Adjustments Alignment: p 55

SS09 Short Crosscut Fence (not on Outrigger)

The check for squareness of the short crosscut fence can be done as illustrated in
the tolerancing information, alternatively a five sided cut can be performed (see
SS05/SS06 for details) and the offcut checked for parallelism.

Check that the fence is up against the stop and locked down into place (Figure
SS09.1)

Figure SS09.1

Continued…

110
Adjustments Alignment: p 55

SS09 continued

If the resulting measurements fall outside of the specified tolerances, then an

adjustment can be made to the 90° stop. Figure SS09.2 shows this.

Figure SS09.2 The short crosscut stop

111
Adjustments Alignment: p 56

SR01 Cast Iron Table

For checking the cast iron table, you will need a straight edge and a feeler gauge.
Check the table at all of the positions indicated in the tolerancing information. Should
any point measued be out of specification, an adjustment will be necessary. There
are adjustments available at all four corners of the table (see figure SR01.1) and a 5th
in the centre, adjacent to the shape housing (see figure SR01.2).

NB: When making adjustments to the cast iron table, it is important to note that the
sliding table will subsequently also need to be checked and possibly adjusted.

Figure SR01.1 (these adjustments are also available on the opposite side of the machine)

Continued…

112
Adjustments Alignment: p 56

SR01 continued

Figure SR01.2

113
Adjustments Alignment: p 57

SR01.1 Rip Capacity Extension Tables

You will need a 1000mm straight edge and a feeler gauge for this. All
extension tables should be aligned within the specified tolerance. Figure SR01.1.1
show the functions of the main supporting screws and nuts.

Figure SR01.1.1

The additionsl screws that support the table obviously do not attach to the table, but
provide support under the table to take-up any out-of-tolerance gaps. They are
shown in figure SR01.1.2.

Continued…

114
Adjustments Alignment: p 57

SR01.1 continued

Figure SR01.1.2

When adjusting the height of the tables, make sure that the nuts securing the rip
fence bar to the extension tables are loose. These nuts are shown in figure SR01.1.3

Continued…

115
Adjustments Alignment: p 57

SR01.1 continued

Figure SR01.1.3

After adjusting the tables, the nuts can be re-tightenend. Check that the rip fence
moves easily across the extension tables once finished.

116
Adjustments Alignment: p 58

SR02 Saw / Shaper Extension Tables

For adjusting the extension table that sits on the shaper side of the table, proceed as
follows: (table is shown in figure SR02.1)

The table has adjustments for controlling its hieght from the cast iron table surface
and also for controlling the parallelism of the table to the cast iron (and sliding table).
You can measure the hieght and angle with a straight edge and a feeler gauge.

SR02.1 Shaper side extension table

The hieght adjustment of the table is shown in figure SR02.2 and utilises two cam-
mounted pins that can be turned with an allen screw and then locked in place with
the nut (19mm wrench) that sits around it. The hieght adjusting screws can also be

117
Adjustments Alignment: p 58

SR02 continued
seen, these are the larger allen screws which slot into the extension table and then
secure it in place. Moving the screw head in or out will contol the angle of the table
to the chassis and thus its parallelism to the cast iron surface.

SR02.2 Hieght adjustment pins and parallelism adjusting screws

SR02.3 The table mounted in place

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Adjustments Alignment: p 59

SR03 Rip Fence Squareness

You will need an Engineers square and a feeler gauge to check the squareness of
the the rip fence.

Place the square against the rip fence and measure the size of any gaps between
the fence and the square.

If the gaps are within the specified tolerance, this check is complete and the next
machine check can be performed.

If the gaps indicate that the fence is not square to the table, within tolerance, then
there are adjustments available. Figures SR03.1 and SR03.2 show these
adjustments.

Figure SR03.1

Continued…

119
Adjustments Alignment: p 59

SR03 continued

Figure SR03.2

You will need to slide the fence out of the way in order to make an adjustment.
NB: These four bolts also affect the free cut of the saw blade (when using the rip
fence), therefore SR04: Rip Fence Freecut at 90° must be checked after making this
adjustment.

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 Adjustments Alignment: p 60

SR04 Rip Fence Free-cut at 90°

And SR05 Rip Fence Free-cut across all tables

The best way to check the free cut of the

saw blade at 90° is to do it with a dial
indicator. You will also need a Ø300mm
saw blade.

Turn the machine off for this exercise as it

involves handling the saw blade.
Set the dial indicator up in position 1 as
shown in figure SR04.1

First, we must remove any error in the

calculation brought about by the tolerance
of the saw blade. In position 1, very
carefully spin the saw blade through
several revolutions and zero the dial
indicator on the lowest value (the closest
point on the saw blade to the rip fence).
Check the new zero before moving on.

Figure SR04.1

Once zero’d, slide the dial indicator to position 2, as shown in figure SR04.1. Again,
spin the saw blade through several revolutions in order to find the same low point,
where the saw blade is again closest to the rip fence. Note this value.

Point 2 should be further away from the saw blade than point 1, by the specified
tolerance.

If it is not within tolerance there are adjustments available at the positions shown in
figure SR04.2. Figure SR04.3 illustrates how adjusting the rip fence bar will affect the
freecut.
When making adjustments here, first loosen off the outer bolts, shown in figure
SR04.4 and then adjust the rip fence bar. After checking the free cut again, these
bolts can be re-tightened.

Continued…

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Adjustments Alignment: p 60

SR04 continued
+ SR05 continued

Figure SR04.2 Free cut adjustment.

Figure SR04.3 Illustrating rip fence bar adjustments

Continued…

122
Adjustments Alignment: p 60

SR04 continued
+ SR05 continued

Figure SR04.4 Rip fence bar securing points

So far the freecut has only been checked across the rip fence bar per the width of the
cast iron table. The next step is to check the free cut across the extension tables.
Figure SR04.5 illustrates the two positions you would need to check and also shows
how with two boards (both rip-cut off the rip fence) the check can be made in the
same way as before. This clearly requires that both of the boards have near-perfect
parallel edges, so they must be ripped with great care in order for this check to be
accurate.

Continued…

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 Adjustments Alignment: p 60

SR04 continued
+ SR05 continued

Figure SR04.5

The adjustments for these positions are the points where the guide bar fixes to the
tables (shown in SR04.4).

For combination machines, the adjustments are shown in figure SR04.6

Figure SR04.6 Combination machine freecut adjustment

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Adjustments Alignment: p 63

SR07 Alignment of the Saw Blade at 90°

To check the alignment of the saw blade at 90°, you will need an engineers square at
least 200mm long on one of the inside edges. The best way to check the alignment
of the saw blade is to cut through a workpiece and measure the angle produced.
The workpiece must have a flat bottom surface (the surface which faces the cast
iron) for the subsequent measurement to be completely accurate.

Place the square along the cut face and the face that was against the cast iron table
and check for any gaps. If the cut is within the specified tolerance, no further action is
necessary.

To make any adjustments to this angle, see figure SR07.1 for the location of the
adjustment. The stop can be accessed from the cut-out in the chassis with an allen
key. Once an adjustment is made, check the alignment once more and re-adjust as
necessary.

Figure SR07.1 The 90° saw blade adjustment. (Pictured here with cast iron table removed)

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Adjustments Alignment: p 64

SR08 Alignment of the Saw Blade at 45°

To check the alignment of the saw blade at 45°, you will need an engineers square at
least 200mm long on one of the inside edges. The best way to check the alignment
of the saw blade is to cut through a workpiece and measure the angle produced.
The workpiece must have a flat bottom surface (the surface which faces the cast
iron) for the subsequent measurement to be completely accurate.

Make two cuts at 45° and join them together as shown in the tolerancing information.
Place a square along the outside of the joint and check for any gaps between the
workpieces and the square. Compare any gaps to the specified tolerance. If the
angle is within tolerance then no adjustment is necessary.

To make an adjustment to the 45° alignment, the mechanical stop will have to be
moved in the appropriate direction. See figure SR08.1 for the location of the stop.

Figure SR08.1 Showing the 45° Mechanical Stop

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Adjustments Alignment: p 65

SR09 Calibration of the Rip Fence Scale

Calibration of the rip fence scale is quick and easy for whichever Hammer you own.
The first step would be to set the rip fence at a given position (say 12”), lock it down
and make a cut from it. Measure the cut workpiece and adjust as necessary:
For machines with the round guide bar, see figure SR09.1, for combination
machines, see figures SR09.2 and 9.3.

Figure SR09.1 Scale adjustment on the Guide bar

Continued…

127
Adjustments Alignment: p 65

SR09 continued

Figure SR09.2 Combination machine scale adjustment

Figure SR09.3 Combination machine scale adjustment

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Adjustments Alignment: p 66

SC01 Alignment of Scoring Blade

Aligning the scoring blade is something that will have to be done almost on a routine
basis, depending on the material you are using and the size of the of the saw blade
you are subsequently using.

The scoring blade has two adjustments; Lateral and Height. Figure SC01.1 shows
the height adjustment position, adjustable with the 4mm allen key T-Bar.

Figure SC01.1 Scoring blade height adustment

Figure SC01.2 shows the location of the lateral adjustment screw, also adjustable
with the 4mm Allen key T-bar. The locking screw location is also shown.

Continued…

129
Adjustments Alignment: p 66

SC01 continued

Figure SC01.2 The lateral adjustment and the locking screw location

130
Adjustments Alignment: p 68

SH02 Shaper Spindle at 90° (for tilting spindles)

If the 90° angle that the shaper makes to the cast iron table (in the tilting plane only)
is not aligned to within the specified tolerance limits, then an adjustment can be made
to the 90° stop on the tilt-controlling axle. It is pictured in figure SH02.1 and can be
accessed through the cutout or from the access hatch for the shaper. You will need
to loosen off the stop with an allen screw first, turn it along the axle in the required
direction, lock it back into place and then return the shaper back to 90° to check the
new alignment. Once checked, re-adjust as necessary.

Figure SH02.1 The 90° stop on the tilt-controlling axle

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Adjustments Alignment: p 69

SH03 Shaper Spindle at 45° (for tilting spindles)

If the alignment of the spindle appears incorrect at 45° , then you will need to make
an adjustment to the 45° stop on the tilt-controlling spindle / axle. The stop is shown
in figure SH03.1 and requires loosening with an allen key to be able to then turn it to
the required position. Tighten the allen screw to secure it and return the shaper to
45°. Check the new alignment and re-adjust as necessary.

Figure SH03.1 The 45° stop on the tilt-controlling axle

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Adjustments Alignment: p 70

SH04 / SH05 Shaper Fences

If, on checking the shaper fences, the alignment appears to be outside the specified
tolerance limits, then adjustments can be found behind the aluminium fence. These
are shown in figure SH04.1. Only make small adjustments (< ¼ revolutions) at a time
and check after each adjustment the new alignment.

Figure SH04.1 Shaper fence adjustments

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Adjustments Alignment: p 74

JR02 Outfeed Table to Cutterblock

Check the outfeed table to the cutterblock with a dial indicator at either end of the
cutterblock, as shown in Figures JR02.1 and JR02.2. Compare the measured results
with the specified tolerance.

Figure JR02.1

Continued…

134
Adjustments Alignment: p 74

JR02 continued

Figure JR02.2

If the alignment is within tolerance, proceed to the next machine check. If the
alignment is out of tolerance, adjustments are available.

If at all, it should only be necessary to adjust the table on the locking-handle side,
shown in Figure JR02.3 (with the tables in the upright position). Move both of the
adjustment bolts up or down depending on the requirement. When closing the table,
the two bolt heads must touch the table at the same time, otherwise the locking
mechanism will cause the table to tilt, by an amount dependant on the force used to
lock the table.

After making the adjustment, check the new alignment.

Continued…

135
Adjustments Alignment: p 74

JR02 continued

Figure JR02.3

If the overall height tolerance of the table to the cutterblock cannot be achieved with
the fine adjustment knob* (shown in JR02.5), then adjustment on the hinge side will
also be necessary, to raise or lower the table. These adjustments are shown in figure
JR02.4. *Always raise the table to it's final position*

Continued…

136
Adjustments Alignment: p 74

JR02 continued

Figure JR02.4

To make adjustments here, the hinge securing bolt must first be released slightly.
This bolt is shown in figure JR02.5. Loosen the bolt by one complete revolution, then
make an adjustment to the table alignment (working in ½ revolutions at a time), re-
tighten the securing bolt and measure the new alignment.

Continued…

137
Adjustments Alignment: p 74

JR02 continued

JR02.5

138
Adjustments Alignment: p 75

JR03 Knives to Outfeed Table

Using a dial indicator, check the height of all of the knives to the outfeed table, at
each point where the knife is fixed into the cutterblock. If, at each point, the height is
within tolerance, move onto the next machine check.

NB: The overall height of all of the knives can be adjusted with the outfeed table fine
adjustment knob*, rather than adjusting each knife individually.
*Always raise the tables to their final position*

Figure JR03.1

To make an adjustment to the knife, start by loosening the securing screw, as shown
in figure JR03.2, then make a small adjustment, say one eighth of a revolution, to the
set screw, shown in figure JR03.3

Continued…

139
Adjustments Alignment: p 75

JR03 continued

Figure JR03.2
Figure JR03.3

Continued…

140
Adjustments Alignment: p 75

JR03 continued

Once the adjustment has been made, re-tighten the securing screw and check the
height at this position and the two next to it with a dial indicator.
Once all knives are within the specified tolerance, the alignment is complete and the
next machine check can be performed.

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Adjustments Alignment: p 76

JR04 Infeed Table to Outfeed Table

For checking the infeed table alignment, you will need a 2000mm straight edge and a
feeler gauge. Place the straight edge across the tables in such a way that it is
supported by the outfeed table only, so that it provides a reference line for the infeed
table.
Now bring the infeed table up level with the outfeed table (or until the first contact
between table and straight edge), as shown in Figure JR04.1
Now use the feeler gauge to determine the size of any gaps between the straight
edge and the infeed table. Check at all of the specified tolerance positions.

Figure JR04.1

If the infeed table is within the specified tolerances then this check is complete and
you can continue with the next machine check.
If the infeed table is not within the specified tolerance, there are adjustments
available. The adjustments are shown in figures JR04.3 and JR04.4. For making any
changes to the hinge side adjustments, the hinge securing bolt (figure JR04.2) must
first be loosened and then re-tightened after adjustment.
NB: When making any adjustment, always leave the nut/bolt tight and check the new
alignment. Always raise the tables to their final position.
Continued…

142
Adjustments Alignment: p 76

JR04 continued

Figure JR04.2

Figure JR04.3
(pictured with cover removed)

Continued…

143
Adjustments Alignment: p 76

JR04 continued

Figure JR04.4

Before finishing, make certain that when the infeed table is locked, the table does not
tilt, either away from or towards the cutterblock. If it does tilt, it is almost certain that
the two bolts on the locking side of the table (figure JR04.4) do not touch the table at
the same time when it is brought down from the upright position.

144
Adjustments Alignment: p 78

JR06 Joiner Test Cuts

You will need two 2” x 4” x 1 meter boards to do this test.

Join one face of each board, then place the two jointed faces together. You should
have a slightly concave joint that produces a small gap between the boards at the
centre of the joint. If you have gaps at each end of the joint, then the cut is convex
and is not acceptable.

What to do if:
The concave cut is too large:
1. Use a dial indicator to measure the height of the knives above the outfeed
table.
2. Keeping the dial indicator in place, use the fine adjustment knob for the
outfeed table to raise the outfeed table (effectively lowering the knives) by
0.025mm (0.001”).
3. Lock the table in this position and perform the test once more.
4. This adjustment can be repeated if the subsequent joint is still too concave,
until the knives are just underneath level (-0.025mm, -0.001”) with the outfeed
table. At this point, the infeed table should be checked for its alignment to the
outfeed table and adjusted as necessary.
The cut is convex:
1. Go back to checks JR03 and JR04 and make certain that these adjustments
are within tolerance.
2. Check that both of the tables do not tilt when locked into position.
3. If these checks prove nothing is out of alignment, start with the knives at
0.10mm (0.004”) above the outfeed table and make successive test cuts,
each time moving the table up by 0.025mm (0.001”), until a concave cut is
obtained.

145
Adjustments Alignment: p 79

JR07 Snipe Check

To check for snipe, you will need a board, say 2” x 4” x 2 ft long (although these
dimensions are not necessarily important). Join the board on one face and check the
back end of the workpiece for a deeper cut similar to that illustrated in the tolerancing
information. This cut is called snipe and occurs when the knives are too high above
the outfeed table. The solution is to move the table up (effectively moving the knives
down) using the fine adjustment knob. It is best to take a measurement of the present
height of the knives, and make adjustments of 0.025mm (0.001”) at a time until the
snipe dissappears.

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Adjustments Alignment: p 80

PL01 Planer Test

You will need two boards approximately the same size, both approx. 2” x 4” and at
least 2ft long. If the boards do not have planed faces, then join one side of each
board first.

Make sure that the feed rollers are engaged and there is suitable extraction. With the
joined surface always facing the cast iron table, plane the two workpieces, one at
either side of the table (as shown in the tolerancing information). Keep passing the
workpieces through until the top surface is completely planed. Always pass the same
workpiece through on the same side of the table. Be sure sure to lock the table in
position each time after raising or lowering it.

When the workpieces have been planed, using a pair of vernier calipers, measure the
thickness of both workpieces. Check that the two measurements are the same within
tolerance.

If the
measurements
indicate that the
planer is out of
tolerance, then an
adjustment is
necessary. Figure
PL01.1 shows 3 of
the 4 adjustment
positions fo r the
table. To move
one side of the
table up or down,
make an
adjustment at both
of the screws on
that side by an
equal amount.

PL01.1

After adjusting, perform the test again and re-adjust as necessary.

N.B. Always raise the table to the desired final position and lock it in place

147
Adjustments Alignment: p 81

PL02 Test for Snipe

You will need two boards; both 2” x 4” x 1 ft would be acceptable. If they have no
planed surfaces, you will need to plane one face of each board on the joiner first.

Set the appropriate height for the planer table and lock it into place. Pass the boards
through the planer, one on either side of the table, then check the front and end of
the workpiece for a slightly deeper cut than is elsewhere. Snipe will occur 30 to
60mm from either end of the workpiece if it occurs at all.
If there is no sign of snipe, the next machine check can be made.
If snipe does occur, it will be necessary to make an adjustment to the feed rollers.
The feed rollers are mounted onto springs. If the springs on one of the feed rollers
are set too tight, there will be too much pressure on one side of the table, causing the
table to tip when the workpiece first moves underneath it and then when the
workpiece leaves that feed roller. Contrary to this, if one of the feed rollers is not set
tight enough, there will not be enough force to hold the workpiece down flat on the
table, meaning the workpiece will tip.

This is what causes snipe – the movement of the workpiece (not necessarily the
table) under the cutterblock

Figure PL02.1
148
Adjustments Alignment: p 82

PL03 Feed Rollers

This test should be performed in conjunction with PL02 (Test for snipe), as the
adjustments for both are the correct alignment of the feed rollers, shown in figure
PL03.1.

As the workpieces are fed through the machine, there should be no sideways
movement of the workpiece, only straight feed. Sideways movement is indicative of a
feed roller not being parallel to the planer table. It is also therefore important to
perform this test on a workpiece that is approximately square, rather than triangular
in cross section, as this may yield the same result.

Figure PL03.1

149
[Link]

Good to Go…

The machine is in place. The extraction is up and running. The test cuts you made
told you everything you needed to know. There’s a stack of lumber in the corner
waiting for a job to do and a plan (of some sorts!) for something on paper or in your
head. So, now you’ve seen what your machine can do, lets see what you can do!

Go safely and enjoy your new Hammer!

150
[Link]'s

Frequently Asked Questions

These are some of the most frequent questions customers ask us when setting up
their new Hammer. For any other questions related to the cutting quality of your
machine, please work through the Basic Machine Check setup process first to find or
eliminate the cause of the issue. Of course, if the answer to your question cannot be
found within this Machine Setup Guide or the Operation Manual, you can always
contact your Hammer Service Department.

Machine Won’t Turn On

Try asking yourself a few basic questions to eliminate some of the possible reasons
for the machine not starting:
Are the emergency stop buttons still depressed? If so, you need to twist them
slightly to make them ‘pop’ back out again.
Are the access doors closed correctly and have you placed the corresponding
switches (where applicable) in the correct place?
Is the main switch on?
Are you pressing the start button for long enough (single phase machines in
particular)?
For full combination machines, is the selector switch engaged correctly and for
the machine unit you are trying to use?
Is there power coming from the mains supply? Are all the trip switches okay?
Is the machine wired up correctly?

Motor Rotation is Backwards (3 phase Machines Only)

Swap two phases of the power supply cord. The electrical compartment may not be
opened without the express instruction of the Hammer service department. This
would otherwise void the warranty.

Saw Burns the Workpiece

The freecut is not setup properly. Which side does it burn on – Rip fence side (when
cutting off the rip fence) or on the crosscut side (when cutting off the crosscut fence)?
See SS01 Freecut From the Sliding Table or SR04 Rip Fence Freecut for details of
the correct alignment and links to the adjustments.

151
[Link]

Linked Websites

[Link]

[Link]

[Link]

[Link]

Latest Hammer developments: [Link]

152
 ... the obvious choice

HAMMER USA EAST

2 Lukens Drive, Suite 300
New Castle, DE 19720
info@[Link]
[Link]
Toll-free: 866-792-5288
Tel: 302-322-7732
Fax 302-322-9865

HAMMER USA WEST

1851 Enterprise Blvd.
W. Sacramento, CA 95691
info@[Link]
[Link]
Toll-free: 800-700-0071
Tel. 916-375-3190
Fax: 916-375-3199

©2005 HAMMER – Errors and Modifications of Technical Data reserved at any time. Always use the safety
equipment and devices supplied with the machine.

153