VASANT R KOTHARI has done Master’s in Textiles Technology from DKTE’s Textile and

Engineering Institute, Ichalkaranji (Shivaji University, Kolhapur), Maharashtra. He has also

done Diploma in Export Management (Apparel Export) from the Indian Institute of Export
Management, and Garment Export and Merchandising Management from NIFT, Bangalore.
Presently, he’s working as an Assistant Professor in Department of Fashion Technology, NIFT,
Bangalore. (This is his seventeenth input from the series of articles in Knitting Views).

Raschel machine
R aschel machines were developed by
Wilhelm Brafuss, it is named after the
famous French Actress, Raschel Flex.
in variety of products, which range from
veilings and laces to power nets for
foundation garments to such pile fabrics
Fig 17.1 shows the cross sectional view of
raschel warp knitting machine. The figure
Until the mid-fifties, the raschel industry as carpets. The raschel knit is made with shows the arrangements of various warp
tended to be small, employing slow, latched needles rather than the bearded knitting elements of the knitting zone, supply
cumbersome but versatile coarse-gauge type used or tricot, Milanese, and simplex. beams, take down device and drive. Raschel
universal raschels. The development of The raschel fabrics can usually be machines gauge is expressed in the standard
modern specific-purpose raschels dates distinguished from tricot fabrics in that E gauge (needles per inch). There is a wide
from 1956, when a 12 guide bar raschel raschel construction are made with heavy gauge range, from E 1 to E 32. The finest
machine led to the rise of the raschel yarns and usually have an intricate, lace gauge single bed raschel is E 40. It can knit
lace industry. like pattern, whereas tricot constructions lightweight foundation and swimwear at
The raschel knit ranks in importance of are made with fine yarns and are either flat speeds between 1,900 and 2,200 rpm in a
production with tricot, but it surpasses it or have a simple geometric pattern. yarn count of approximately 80 dtex.

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The warp supply beams of the raschel The fabric is drawn downwards from the
machines are placed above the machine. needles, almost parallel to the needle bar, The warp supply beams
This enables easy accessible at the front at an angle of 120-160 degrees, by a series
of the raschel machines
for fabric inspection and the back for the of take-down rollers. The warp beams are
mechanical attention to the knitting arranged above the needle bar, centred
are placed above the
elements. The guide bars are numbered from over the rocker shaft, so that warp sheets machine. This enables
the front towards the back of the machine. pass down to the guide bars on either easy accessible at the
More number of supply beams can be side of it. front for fabric inspection
accommodated in raschel knitting so that and the back for the
atleast four 32 inch diameters beams or large Loop formation on raschel mechanical attention to
numbers of small diameter pattern beams machine the knitting elements.
are engaged. Larger number of warp beams Fig. 17.2 shows the main elements
necessitates larger number of guide bars involved in the loop formation of a latch
with raschel machine. Raschel fabrics are needle raschel machine. The various
knitted on machines having two to forty- figures from 17.3 to 17.8 show the
eight guide bars, which accounts for the sequence of events in one knitting cycle.
wide variety of fabrics. Programming the In order to have perfect wrapping of yarn
large number of guide bars can be very within the hook position, the latch
complex and [Link] warp sheets are needles in raschel are longer as compare
taken through tension rails, which are the to latch needles in weft knitting.
tension compensating devices. Holding down: In the holding down
position as shown in fig 17.3 the needle
head is just in line with the loop edge of the
trick plate. The guide bars are at the front Fig. 17.5: Overlap Fig. 17.6:
of the machine, completing their under lap Returning swing

shog. The sinker bar moves forward to hold

the fabrics down whilst the needle bar Returning swing: As the guide bars swing
starts to rise from knock-over. to the front, as shown in Fig 17.6 the warp
threads wrap into the needle hooks.
Latch closing: The needle bar descends
so that the old overlaps contact and close
the latches, trapping the new overlaps
inside. The sinker bar now starts to
move forward.

Fig 17.1: Cross sectional view of raschel

knitting machine

Fig. 17.3: Fig. 17.4: Clearing

Holding down

Clearing: In clearing position, as shown

in Fig 17.4, the needle bar rises to its full
height; the old overlaps slip down onto
the stems after opening the latches,
which are prevented from flicking closed Fig. 17.7: Latch Fig. 17.8: Knocking
closing over
by latch wires. The sinker bar then starts
to withdraw to allow the guide bars Knocking-over and underlap: As the
to overlap. needle bar continues to descend further,
Overlap: The sinker bar starts to withdraw its head passes below the surface of the
and the guide bars swing to the back of trick-plate, drawing the new overlap
Fig 17.2: Knitting elements of raschel machine the machine and then shog for the overlap. through the old overlap which is cast-off.

KNITTING VIEWS/SEPTEMBER-OCTOBER 2012/ 27

 Raschel knitting systems
can produce fabrics
ranging from fine lace like
material to heavy blankets
and even carpets. Each of
these, of course, is done
Fig 17.11: Working diagrams of double bed
on different gauges of
raschel raschel machines.

Old overlaps slip down onto the stems. Raschel machines are extremely versatile.
Overlap (2), return swing, latch closing. It can knit every type of yarn made of
And knock-over (3) and underlap. any kind of fibre, including metallic and
Fig 17.9: Raschel machine with
a) One bed and b) Two beds Fig 17.11 shows the two courses (one glass, and in any form, whether staple or
machine revolution) needs three swings filament, standard or novelty. This
of guide bars. In this case there is an versatility naturally extends the possible
alternate action of the beds. Bed which is characteristics and properties of the
not active will keeps the fabric down fabrics produced.
instead of the sinkers. Raschel knitting systems can produce
fabrics ranging from fine lace like material
Raschel fabrics to heavy blankets and even carpets. Each
Raschel fabrics, like tricot fabrics, are warp- of these, of course, is done on different
knit fabrics, and, therefore, share many of gauges of raschel machines. These
their characteristics. The principle of knitting systems are capable of producing
knitting in tricot knits is identical to the fabrics with interesting surface effects,
principle of knitting in raschel knits. The almost to the point of being three-
Fig 17.10: Working diagrams of single
bed raschel significant differences between tricot and dimensional. Raschel knits do not stretch
raschel are that raschel knitting machinery significantly and are often bulky;
utilises latch needles rather than spring consequently, they are often used as an
The trick plate supports the old loop and
beard needles and has anywhere from four unlined material for coats, jackets, straight
the sinker advance towards the trick-plate,
to more than 50 yarn guide bars. The large skirts and dress
the under lap shog of the guide bar starts.
number of yarn guide bars in raschel
Fig 17.10 shows the holding down knitting provides the potential for great (In the next session, we would be
discussing about compound needle
position (1). The sinkers hold the fabric variation in raschel knit fabric. Sometimes warp knitting machine.)
down. Needle bar rises to its full height. more than one needle bar is used.

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