Bustier Corset Top Aurora
Sewing pattern & tutorial
© 2021 Nataly Patterns
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Dear Friend,
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Patterns shop!
So, let’s get started!
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Materials and tools required:
1. Sewing machine
2. Main fabric: 150 x 40 cm/60 x 16 inches (Wash and iron the fabric before
sewing!) (You can use any fabric that you like: cotton, denim, satin, tweed etc.)
3. Lining: 150 x 40 cm/60 x 16 inches
4. Interlining: 150 x 40 cm/60 x 16 inches
5. Threads which colour fits the fabric
6. Printed templates (look the other file)
7. Ribbons: 2.5 cm/ 1 inch wide, 2 meters/ 79 inch long (you can make fabric
straps – look page 10, or do not use them at all)
8. Chalk
9. Scissors
10. Pins and a needle
11. Iron
12. Measuring tape
13. Separating zipper (20, 5 cm/ 8 inch long, you can decrease its length – look
page 8)
14. Zipper foot
15. Bone casing (channels), boning and underwires for the bust
* In the patterns and in the instructions I use international sizes.
International UK US Size Waist Bust
XXS 4 0 XXS 61 cm/24 inch 79 cm/31 inch
XS 6 2 XS 63,5 cm/25 inch 82,5 cm/32.5 inch
S 8 4 S 66 cm/26 inch 85 cm/33.5 inch
S/M 10 6 S/M 71 cm/28 inch 90 cm/35.5 inch
M 12 8 M 76 cm/30 inch 95cm/37.5inch
M/L 14 10 M/L 81 cm/32 inch 100cm/39.5inch
L 16 12 L 86,5 cm/34 inch 105,5cm/41.5inch
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If there are things you are not familiar with, just search on Google or YouTube
how to make them.
Step 1
Choose the templates that are appropriate with your size, highlight the
corresponding lines with a marker, copy them onto tracing paper (or usual paper),
seams are already included, and cut the templates out.
For example, my size is S/M, so, that is what I am highlighting and then cutting
out (Picture 1)
Picture 1
*Tip: How to adjust the bustier if your bust is bigger than your size? – take
Cup 1 and Cup 2 details bigger than the rest details (bigger than your actual size)
and accordingly deepen the curvy lines of Center and Center lateral details (the
bigger size is the shorter smaller side will become, because the more space for bust
is required)
*Before sewing the details together on the sewing machine, pin them or sew them
together by hands
*Before sewing the zipper make sure that the bustier fits you well (at waist and at
the upper back)
*It is better at first to sew a draft using cheap fabric
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Step 2
Cut out the details: fold fabric in half, place Front part on fold and position the rest
details near. Repeat for lining and interlining. (Picture 2)
Attach interlining (with iron) to all of the 11 details of main fabric (sticky side of
the interlining to the wrong side of the fabric). (Picture 3)
Picture 2
Picture 3
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Step 3
3
Sew all of the 7 vertical details together by putting them face to face (1 cm/ inch
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seam allowance), press the seams open. (Picture 4, Picture 5)
Picture 4
Picture 5
3
Sew together Cup 1 and Cup 2 details (face to face 1 cm/ inch seam allowance)
8
(firstly pin their middles together then their left and right edges, then the space
between) (Picture 6).
Picture 6
1
Press the seam up and make a top stitch about 0.2 cm/ inch from the sewing line.
16
Repeat for the second cup. (Picture 7)
Sew cups to the bustier right sides together (firstly pin together their left and right
upper points, then the space between) Press the seam down (Picture 8).
Repeat a whole step 3 for lining.
Picture 7
Picture 8
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Step 4
1) Put together face to face fabric bustier and lining bustier (cover the fabric
bustier with lining one) and sew them together along the lower edge: about 7 cm/2
6 3
inch from right and left sides only (not a whole lower side) (1 cm/ inch seam
8 8
allowance). (Picture 9)
2) Then unfold the lining and put one part of a zipper to the left side and the other
part of a zipper to the right side (face down to the right side of the fabric, right
above the seam). Sew both parts with basting stitch and then with sewing machine
(using a zipper foot) (after that undo basting stitch). (Picture 11)
3) Then again cover the fabric bustier with lining and sew them together along the
upper edge and along the lateral sides (these sewing lines should match the
3
previous ones). (1 cm/ inch seam allowance). (Picture 12)
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*How to reduce zipper’s length (Picture 10)
Picture 10
Picture 9
8
* When you sew that part with a slider, when you reach the middle lift up the foot
(with the needle down in fabric) and pull the slider up away, (so it does not
interrupt anymore) put the foot down and finish the sewing line. (Picture 11)
Picture 12
Picture 11
Picture 13
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*If you want to make a bustier with straps (or ribbons) before doing point 3 from
step 4 put the straps face down on the fabric bustier (50 cm/ 20 inch each of 4
pieces) (Picture 14)
Picture 14
*How to make fabric straps (Picture 15):
- You will need 2 rectangles 7 x 52 cm/3 x 20.5 inch each;
3
- Press all of the 4 sides of a rectangle inwards for 1 cm/ inch;
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-Fold the strap in half and sew along close to the edge from one corner to another;
-Make 3 more straps the same way.
Picture 15
Turn the bustier out through the space left in the lower part. (Picture 13)
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Step 5
3
Fold lower side inside for 1 cm/ inch both lining and main fabric, press. (Picture
8
16)
Picture 16
Sew parallel lines from right and left sides of each of 6 seams to create channels
for boning (pin them before sewing to align the seams of fabric and of lining) the
2
width of each channel should be 0.6-0.7 cm/ inch. (Picture 17)
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Picture 17
Take 2 pieces of casing which length is equal to those curvy lines under cups. Pin
them under the cups (to the wrong side of the bustier) so that seams of both layers
are matching with the seam of the casing (that was already there), sew with basting
stitch. Then sew with sewing machine (it is better to sew on the right side of the
bustier to make sewing line exactly in the seam that connects the cup and the
2
bustier).Then sew a parallel line (about 0.6 cm/ inch from the previous sewing
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line to fasten the casing from both sides). Insert underbust wire inside the casing.
Repeat the same for the other cup. (Picture 18)
After that insert boning in each of 6 vertical channels. (Picture 19)
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Picture 18
Picture 19
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Step 6
Make top stitches at the upper and lower sides, about 0.2 cm from the edge (lower
top stitch will close the opening; the upper one will close the openings of the
casing with underbust wires). Top stitches are also made for decorative purposes to
make the clothing look neater. (Picture 20)
Picture 20
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