c f a

4cm / 1.5"

j I

k BP
h

DP

o m b
d L n
Basic
Bodice
Front


1
­
Draw
a
horizontal
line,
mark

‘a’
and
‘b’
point
.





a
­
b
=
nap
to
waist
or
length
of
garment.

2.
Draw
square
out
at
‘a’
and
‘b’
point,
name
it
as
nap
line
and
waist
line.

3.
Place
shoulder
to
shoulder
measurement,
Place
it
from
‘a’
on
nap
line
and
mark
it
as
‘c’
point.




a
­
c
=
1/2
of
Shoulder
to
Shoulder


4.
Place
waist
measurement
at
waist
line
and
mark
it
as
‘d’.




b
­
d
=
1/4
of
waist
+
1cm

5.
Place
shoulder
slop,
draw
a
square
down
from
‘c’
and
mark
it
as
‘e’
point.




c
­
e
=
4
cm
or
1/5"



6.
Place
shoulder
measurement
from
‘e’
on
nap
line
and
mark
it
as
‘f’
point.




e
­
f
=
1/2
shoulder
measurement.


7.
Place
center
front
measurement
from
b
and
mark
it
as
‘g’
point.




b
­
g
=
Center
Front
(CF)







Draw
neck
line,
by
joining
‘f’
&
‘g’
with
a
curve
line
(
Use
French
Curve).

8.
To
find
bust
line,
place
Nap
to
Bust
point
measurement
from
‘a’,
mark
it
as
‘h’point
and
draw
a
square
out
at
‘h’
point.




>
Place
1/4th
of
bust
+
1cm
from
‘h’
and
mark
it
as
‘k’.





h
­
k
=
1/4
of
bust
+1cm
ease




To
find
bust
point,
place
10
cm
from
‘h’
and
mark
it
as
‘BP’
point.




h
­
BP
=
10
cm
(
standard
measurement
/
else
place
actual
body
measurement
)




Draw
square
down
at
BP
and
extend
up
to
waist
line,
Mark
it
as
‘l’
point
on
waist
.





Place
1"
or
1.25"
to
find
dart
point,
mark
it
a
‘DP’

9.
To
find
above
bust
or
across
chest,

Measure
1/2
of
‘g’
to
‘h’
and
mark
it
as
‘I’
&
draw
a
square
out
at
‘I’.




>
Place
1/2
of
above
chest
measurement
from
‘I’
and
mark
it
as
‘j’.




>
if
there
is
shoulder
dart
Place
measurement
of
(
1/2
above
chest
+
1/2
of
dart
).

11.
Placing
of
waist
Dart.




>
Calculation
of
Dart
(
Total
Bust
circumference
­
Total
Waist
circumference
=
Total
Dart
)
Example
­
If
total
bust
circumference
is
36
inches
and
total
waist
circumference
is
28
inches












Total
Bust
­
Total
waist
(
36
­
28
=
8
inches)













8
inch
is
the
total
dart
(
including
front
and
back
)












For
the
front
side
dart
divide
total
dart
in
to
1/2
and
take
3/4
of
it.












>
8"/2
=
4"












Front
dart,
3/4th
of
4"
=
3"
(
total
front
dart
)











For
the
Back
side
dart
take
1/4th
of
4"
=
1"
(
total
back
dart
)

12.
Place
front
dart
width,
(1/2
of
total
front
dart
both
side
of
‘l’
and
mark
it
as
‘m’
&
‘n’
point)







join
both
dart
leg
point
‘m’
and
‘n’
point
to
‘DP’
point,
to
construct
dart.

13.
Waist
adjustment
due
to
dart
intake.
Place
total
front
dart
measurement
from
‘d’
and
mark
it
as
‘o’
point.






d
­
o
=
m
­
n
 c f a

4cm / 1.5"

j I

p
4"
1.2

Q BP
k
h

DP

Few adjustment after completion of drafting.

1 front armhole adjustment

2. Measure 2" below from ‘k’ point and mark it as ‘r’ point and join with ‘DP’ point.

3. Slash ‘r’ to ‘DP’ line, then close the ‘p’ to ‘q’ Segment to open dart at ‘r’ pont.
Fix all the position and draw a new arm hole.
o m b
L Join with the
d on new side seam dart and
4. Place 1" from ‘DP’ point n opening dart points.
 c e Nap line. a

o p2
p1
g

f d

p 11.23 cm

k j

26.09 cm
bp Back Bust line.
I h

b
n L x m y Back Waist line.
Basic
Bodice
Back


Step
by
Step
Instruction.
(Back)


1.
Leave
2"
from
the
top
and
side
edge
of
the
sheet.



2.
Draw
vertical
line
and
mark
the
bodice
length
(Nap
to
Waist
).




and
mark
it
as
'a'
and
'b'
point.





'a'
to
'b'
line
segment
is
known
as
Center
Back.

3.
Draw
a
square
out
(90
degree)
from
'a'
name
it
as
Nap
line.





and
at
'b'
and
name
it
as
waist
line.

4.

Place
½
of
shoulder­to­shoulder
measurement
from
'a'
and
marked
it
as
'c'
point.






Draw
a
square
down
at
'c'
and
place
4
cm
for
shoulder
slope,
marked
it
as
'd'
point.

5.
Place
neck
width
measurement
from
front
and
place
it
from
'a'
and
marked
it
as
'e'
point







on
nap
line.
Join
'd'
and
'e'
and
extend,
to
construct
shoulder
line.
6.
Place
½
shoulder
+1
cm
measurement
from
'e'
on
extended
shoulder
line
and
mark
it
as





'f
'
point.

7.
Place
1.5
cm
neck
depth
from
'a'
on
CB
line
and
mark
it
as
'g'.






Draw
back
neck
curve
by
joining
'e'
to
'g'.

8.
Measure
½
of
'a'
to
'b'
and
mark
it
as
'h'
point
and
draw
a
square
across
toward
side
seam,
name
it




as
back
bust
line.


9.
Place
¼
of
bust
or
place
same
measurement
as
front,
and
name
it
as
'I'.


10.
Find
the
midpoint
of
'g'
to
'h'
and
name
it
ad
'j',
Draw
square
across
on
'j'
towards
side
seam,






Place
½
of
across
back
width
and
name
it
as
'k'
point.


11.
Measure
¼
of
waist
or
take
waist
measurement
from
front
and
place
it
from
'b'
and
mark
it
as
'L’






point.


12.
Find
the
midpoint
of
'b'
to
'L'
and
mark
it
as
'm'
as
waist
dart
point,
draw
square

up
to
bust
line






and
mark
it
as
bust
dart
point
(bp).


13.
Place
back
waist
dart
(1/2
of
dart
measurement
both
side
of
'm'
point)
mark
it
as
x
and
y
join
x






and
y
to
bp
point.


14.
Extend
the
dart
intake
from
'L'
toward
side
seam
and
mark
it
as
'n'
point.
Join
'n'
to
'I'.


15.
Find
the
midpoint
of
shoulder
and
name
it
as
'o'
point,
draw
a
square
down
at
'o'
point
and
place






7cm
dart
depth
from
'o',
mark
it
as
'p'
point.


16.
Place
1cm
dart
on
'o'
(1/2
cm
both
side
of
'o'
point)
name
it
as
p1,
p2.
Join
p1
to
'p'
and
p2
to
'p'.
 After
completing
Both
front
and
back
need
to
check
and
adjust
the
pattern.


BACK

Neck line

FRONT

BACK

Armhole

FRONT FRONT

Place
both
sleeve
side
and
check
whether
the
armhole
is
smoothly
curved
or

not,
similarly
your
neck
line.
If
armhole
and
neck
line
is
not
smooth
enough

the
redraw
the
armhole
and
neck
line.
 BACK FRONT

Aline
side
seam
of
back
with
side
seam
of
front,
if
any
side
is
bigger
than
other
adjust

accordingly.