INAMORI SYNTHETIC CAT'S-EYE ALEXANDRITE

By Robert E. Kane

T h e world's first commercially available synthetic impurity of Cr3-'-.A conspicuous change of color
cat's-eye alexandrite chrysoberyl is n o w being m a n u - from an intense bluish green to a deep "raspberry"
factured and marketed b y the Kyocera Corporation i n (purplish)red is the most desirable for alexandrite.
Kyoto, Japan. 1Zyocera markets synthetic gemstones The flux growth of nonphenomenal chrysoberyl
i n the U n i t e d States under the trade n a m e " I n a m o r i dates back to the latter half of the 19th century.
Created." T h i s article reports on a detailed gemologi-
From 1845 on, Ebelman used borate fluxes to
cal examination of this n e w synthetic cat's-eye alax-
andrite. Although most of the gemological properties
synthesize very small crystals of chrysoberyl.
of t h i s n e w synthetic overlap those of n a t u r a l cat's-
Later Deville and Caron, and Hautefeuille and
eye alexandrite, i t can be identified by i t s u n i q u e i n - Perrey, also reported similar success with chrys-
ternal characteristics and its unusual fluorescence t o oberyl synthesis (Nassau, 1980).Nassau also noted
short-wave ultraviolet radiation. that in recent years experiments have been con-
ducted with the more common l i t h i u n ~molybdate
and lead oxide-lead fluoride-boron oxide flux
combinations, but only small crystals have been
produced. He also cites reports of the use of the
I n late January 1987, the Inamori Jewelry Division Verneuil process to synthesize chrysoberyl or
of Kyocera International, Inc., San Diego, Califor- alexandrite-crystal boules.
nia, gave GIA two synthetic cat's-eye alexandrite Synthetic chrysoberyl containing only chro-
chrysoberyls for study. Kyocera reported that these mium as a trace elen~ent,usually at the 0.05%
two oval double cabochons (3.27 and 3.3 1 ct) were level or less (which results in pale color and a very
representative of the new synthetic cat's-eye alex- weak alexandrite effect), provides a useful laser
andrite being manufactured and cut in their highly crystal. Laser rods up to 2.5 cm in diameter and 15
automated synthetics facility in Kyoto, Japan. cm long (1 in. x 6 in.) are being grown by the
(figure 1). Czochralslzi pulling technique at the Allied Chem-
This new synthetic cat's-eye alexandrite was ical Corp. of Morris Township, New Jersey (Morris
first marketed in Japan set in jewelry in early and Cline, 1976).Faceted stones cut from synthetic
September 1986, and has just been released in the alexandrite grown by the Czochralslzi method at
United States as loose stones as well as in jewelry. Allied Signal Corp. (formerlyAllied Chemical) are
As of June 1987, Kyocera had produced only 250 ct now commercially available in the trade. The
of this material for jewelry purposes. The stones hydrothermal growth of synthetic chrysoberyl,
currently available range in weight from slightly but apparently not of alexandrite, has been re-
under 1 ct to 7.5 ct (K. Talzada, pers. comm., 1987). ported in a series of Czechoslovalziai~patents by
They are marketed in the U.S. under the trade D. Rykl and J. Bauer (Nassau, 1980).
name "Inamori Created," as are Kyocera's other
synthetic gems. In preparing this article, a total of
13 cabochon-cut Inamori synthetic cat's-eye alex-
andrites, ranging in weight from 1.04 to 3.3 1 ct, ACKNOWLEDGMENTS: The author thanks Kyocera Corp., of
were subjected to several gemological tests, includ- Kyoto, Japan, and Mr. Ken Takada, of the Inamori Jewelry Divi-
ing detailed microscopic study. The results are sion of Kyocera International,,Inc., San Diego, California, for
reported below. A brief history of chrysoberyl their cooperation in supplying information and material for ex-
amination. Ms. Yoshiko Doi, of the Association of Japan Gem
synthesis is also provided. Trust, Tokyo, Japan, also kindly loaned a sample synthetic.
GIA's Course Development Department supplied the line illus-
HISTORY OF trations in figure 2. Dr. Emmanuel Fritsch, of the GIA Research
Department, did the spectrophotometer work. Mr. Shane Mc-
CHRYSOBERYL SYNTHESIS Clure, of the GIA Gem Trade Laboratory in Los Angeles, pro-
Alexandrite is the color-change variety of chrys- vided helpful suggestions.
oberyl, the beryllium aluminate, BeA1204,with an 0 1987 Gemofogical Institute of America

158 Notes and New Techniques GEMS & GEMOLOGY Fall 1987
 Faceted synthetic alexandrite has been pro-
duced and marketed sporadically since 1973 by
Creative Crystals of San Ramon, California, under
the trade name Alexandria-Created Alexandrite
(Cline and Patterson, 1975). Although both flux
and melt techniques are covered in this patent, the
inclusions present in the synthetic alexandrite
comn~erciallyavailable from Creative Crystals
indicate that this material is definitely flux-grown.
In 1974, Creative Crystals experimentally synthe-
sized cat's-eye chrysoberyl (not alexandrite) by the
flux method; however, this product was never
placed on the market (D. Patterson, pers. comm.,
1987).
Faceted synthetic alexandrite has been com-
mercially available from Kyocera International
since 1975 (K. Taliada, pers. comin., 1987). This
material does not show any characteristics of flux
growth and is probably grown by a melt process,
specifically the Czochralski pulling method. Con- Figure 1. This Inmori synthetic cat's-eye d e x -
andrite appears dark purple-red in incandescent
firmation of this is provided by a U.S. patent light. Photo 0 Tino Hammid.
assigned to Kyoto Ceramic Co. by Machida and
Yoshihara (1980))in which the primary emphasis
andrites do not show any microscopic characteris-
is a description of synthesizing alexandrite by a
tics of fluxgrowth, leads to the conclusion that this
direct melting method: the Czochralslii (rotational
new product is grown by the Czochralslii method.
pull-up) technique.
On 'July 15, 1983, Women's Wear Daily re- GEMOLOGICAL PROPERTIES
ported that the Sumitomo Cement Company's
Thirteen cabochon-cut Inamori synthetic cat's-eye
central research laboratory, based in Funabashi
alexandrites were closely examined and submitted
City, Japan, had succeeded in synthesizing cat's-
to a variety of gemological tests. The results are
eye alexandrite. Sun~itomofiled for worldwide
reported below and summarized in table 1.
patents for synthesizing this material with a melt
method that uses the floating-zone technique Visual Appearance. A distinct color change was
(K. Taliada, pers. comm., 1987).The growth process observed in all of the samples in fluorescent
is followed by spontaneous cooling to room tem- illumination (or natural sunlight) as compared to
perature and a special heat-treatment process. incandescent illumination. When the stones were
In September 1983, independent of Sumitomo, viewed with a single overhead light source, a broad
Kyocera began experimentation on the synthesis of eye of moderate intensity was noted in each. When
cat's-eye alexandrite (K. Taliada, pers. comm., viewed with a Verilux fluorescent light source, the
1987).This research led to the eventual commer- synthetic cat's-eye alexandrites appear dark gray-
cial marketing of this new synthetic. In a U.S. ishgreen with a slightly purplish overtone. The eye
patent by Uji and Nakata (1986) assigned to the exhibits a slightly greenish white-blue color.
Kyocera Corp., the synthesis of single-crystal cat's- There is an overall dull, "oily" appearance. When
eye chrysoberyl (not alexandrite) is described. The viewed with an incandescent light source (figure
primary emphasis of the patent is on several 1)) the same stones changed to a dark purple-red
examples whereby the Czochralski method is with a bluish white eye, again with an overall dull,
used. The patent also mentions two different "oily" appearance. This "oily" appearance affected
examples of synthesizing an "olive-green" and a the transparency slightly in both types of illu-
brown cat's-eye chrysoberyl (not alexandrite) by mination. When viewed with the unaided eye and
means of a lithium molybdate flux. However, overhead illumination, as well as with transmitted
information contained in this patent, in addition to illumination, these synthetics appeared to be com-
the fact that the Inamori synthetic cat's-eye alex- pletely free of inclusions.

Notes and New Techniques GEMS & GEMOLOGY Fall 1987 159
 refractive-index values (1.745-1.755, obtained by
TABLE 1. The gemological properties of the Inamori
synthetic cat's-eye alexandrites.
the spot method), specific-gravity values (3.73 ?
0.02), trichroism (purple-red,brownish orange, and
Properties that overlap those of gray-green),and a bright red reaction to the Chelsea
natural cat's-eye alexandrites color filter that are all essentially consistent with
Color Moderate to distinct color change from dark
grayish green, with a slight purplish the corresponding properties in natural cat's-eye
overtone, and a slightly greenish white-blue alexandrite. The spectra observed with a GIA Gem
eye under fluorescent lighting; to a dark Instruments spectroscope unit are the same as
purple-red, with a bluish white eye when
viewed with incandescent light those for alexandrite (natural and synthetic) de-
Visual Transparent with an overall hazy, "oily" scribed in Liddicoat (1981, p. 191)and shown here
appearance to appearance in both lighting conditions; no in figure 2. These features were confirmed by
the unaided eye inclusions are visible to the unaided eye spectrophotometry.
Refractive index Spot readings of 1.745-1.755
Trichroism Strongly distinct colors of purple-red, Transmission Luminescence. When the synthetic
brownish orange, and gray-green
cat's-eye alexandrites were placed over the strong
Color filter Bright red
reaction light source from the opening of the iris diaphragm
Specific gravity 3.73 Â 0.02; estimated with heavy liquids on the spectroscope unit, they all displayed a very
Absorption Absorption lines at 680.5, 678.5, 665, 655, strong greenish white transmission luminescence
spectrums 645, 472. and sometimes at 468 nm (very (in some viewing positions a slight pink cast was
(400-700 nm) weak); broad absorption blocking out all of seen; see figure 3, left). In fact, the transmission
the violet and some of the blue, and portions
luminescence was so strong that it was visible even

-
of the yellow-green to orange areas of the
visible spectrum. Spectrum will vary in sunlight, or any artificial light. This transmis-
depending on viewing position and which sion luminescence is the cause of the overall dull,
rays are isolated.
"oily" appearance seen when the stones are viewed
-lvQ>a;?È4
Key Identifying properties -A ww with the unaided eye, as discussed above.
fluorescence Although natural cat's-eye alexandrites may
Long-wave Moderate red (overlaps natural, not

Short-wave
diagnostic)
Weak, opaque, chalky yellow fluorescence
u. exhibit a similar transmission, it is generally not
as strong and has a slightly different appearance. In
that appears to be confined near the contrast, many natural as well as synthetic alex-
r surface; careful examination reveals an
underlying weak red-orange fluorescence.
andrites (not chatoyant) will exhibit a strong red
transmission (see figure 3, right).
Inclusions Parallel, straight-appearing and undulating

7-
color-zoned growth features; and
nondescript white-appearing, minute [Link]
-

particles specifically oriented in parallel

2. The absorption spectra for Inamori
~uwwcA planes (visible only with fiber-optic synthetic cat's-eye alexandrite, as observed on
e to the
illumination), which ~ i v rise a hand-held type of spectroscope at room tem-
chatoyancy. With the iris diaphragm par~ially , perature. The upper dr(iwing shows the spec-
closed (mrdarkfield illumination at 25 x u trum seen in the red direction, and the lower
create a shadowing effect, the unevenly
spaced parallel growth features b e c o r n e r n
shows the spectrum seen in the green direction.
more evident and reveal themselves as Spectral colors (ire approximate.
undulating rather than straigh"
I

'As observed through a hand-held type of spectroscope

Interestingly, when the cabochons were

viewed under a strong, single incandescent light
source down the long direction, asterism was
observed. The two additional rays were weaker
than the chatoyant band. This behavior would not
be expected in natural cat's-eye alexandrites.
Physical and Optical Properties. Testing of the
Inamori synthetic cat's-eye alexandrites revealed

160 Notes and New Techniques GEMS & GEMOLOGY Fall 1987
Figure 3. Transmission luminescence as seen over the strong light source from the opening o f t11e iris
diaphragm on the spectroscope unit. Left, Inamori synthetic cat's-eye alexandrite; right, natural alex-
andrite from Brazil. Photos b y Shone McClzire.

Fluorescence. When the synthetic cat's-eye alex- U.V radiation would not be expected in a natural
andrites were exposed to long-wave (366 nin) cat's-eye alexandrite, and therefore provides the
ultraviolet radiation, a moderate red fluorescence gemologist with an excellent indication that the
was observed. This reaction to long-wave U.V piece is synthetic.
radiation' is also seen in natural cat's-eye alex-
andrites. When the samples were exposed to short- Microscopic Study. All of the samples were care-
wave (254 nm) U.V radiation (in a dark room, with fully exanlined with a standard gemological binoc-
the synthetic stone lying 011 a black pad raised to ular microscope; darlzfield, fiber-optic, transmit-
within a few inches of the U.V source), an unusual ted, and polarized illumination were all used.
reaction was observed. The cabochons exhibited a When the cabochons were examined with
weak, opaque, chalky yellow fluorescence that darlzfield illumination, parallel striations were
appears to be confined near the surface. Careful seen oriented perpendicular to the length of the
examination revealed an underlying red-orange cabochon. However, it was difficult to discern the
fluorescence. This unusual reaction to short-wave precise nature of these striations because viewing

Figure 4. W i t h the built-in

1 iris diaphragm o n the G e m -

ofite microscope stage par-
tially closed (over darlzfield
illumination) t o create a
shadowing effect i n this
cabochon-cut Inamori syn-
thetic cat's-eye alexandrite,
the unevenly spaced parallel
growth features become
more evident and reveal
themselves as undulating
rather than straight. Mag-
nified 25 x .

Notes and New Techniques GEMS & GEMOLOGY Fall 1987 161
 rise to the chatoyancy (figure 5). No other distinc-
tive features were seen with transmitted or po-
larized illumination. None of the inclusions re-
sembled natural inclusions.
Natural cat's-eye chrysoberyls (non-color
change, as well as alexandrite) always contain
ultra-fine parallel growth tubes or needles that are
oriented very close together and give rise to the
cat's-eye effect when the stones are cut en cab-
ochon. These inclusions are quite different in
appearance from those observed in the Inamori
synthetic cat's-eye alexandrites. Natural cat's-eye
chrysoberyls also are frequently host to solid
crystal inclusions of mica, quartz, apatite, and
actinolite as well as other minerals. In addition,
Figure 5. Oblique illumination created w i t h a two- and three-phase fluid inclusions, containing
fiber-optic light unit reveals the nondescript, both water and carbon dioxide, are commonly
white-appearing, m i n u t e particles -specifically seen. Also typical of natural cat's-eye chrysoberyls
oriented i n parallel planes (in association w i t h are strong, highly visible growth features; they
the undulating striations shown i n figure 4)-
may be parallel, singular, straight, angular, and
that give rise to the chatoyancy i n this 1namori
synthetic cut's-eye alexandrite. The larger white irregular. The Inamori synthetic cat's-eye alex-
spots are surface features on the. stone. andrites examined to date do not contain any of
Magnified 45 x . these internal features.

IDENTIFICATION AND
CONCLUSION
was obstructed by the typical "halo" seen in The Inamori synthetic cat's-eye alexandrites
transparent, highly polished double cabochons. closely resemble their natural counterparts in
Partially closing the built-in iris diaphragm (over visual appearance, and most of their physical and
darlzfield illumination)on the microscope stage, to optical properties overlap those of natural cat's-eye
create a shadowing effect, revealed that the un- alexandrites. The key identifying characteristics
evenly spaced parallel growth features are undulat- of the new Inamori synthetic are: (1)the undulat-
ing rather than straight (see figure 4). Such features ing growth features seen with the microscope
would not be expected in natural cat's-eye alex- when shadowing and darlzfield illumination are
andrites. Fiber-optic illumination revealed non- used, and the white particles seen when fiber-optic
descript white-appearing minute particles that are illumination is used in conjunction with magnifi-
specifically oriented in parallel planes (in associa- cation; and (2)the unusual fluorescence seen with
tion with the above-mentioned striations),and give short-wave ultraviolet radiation.

REFERENCES
Cline C.F., Patterson D.A. (1975)Synthetic crystal and method Morris R.C., Cline C.F. (1976) Chromium doped beryllium
of making same. United States patent 3,912,521, filed aluminate lasers. United States patent 3,997,853, filed
April 30, 1973, issued October 14, 1975. November 29, 1974, issued December 14, 1976.
Liddicoat R.T. Jr. (1981)Handbook o f G e m Identification, 1l t h Nassau K. (1980) G e m s Made by Man. Chilton Book Co.,
ed. Gemological Institute of America, Santa Monica, CA. Radnor, PA.
Machida H.,Yoshihiira Y. (1980) Synthetic single crystal for Uji M. I., Nakata R. (1986) Chrysobcryl cat's-eye synthetic
alexandrite gem. United States patent 4,240,834, filed single crystal. United States patent 4,621,065, filed Sep-
September 14, 1979, issued December 23, 1980. tember 21, 1984, issued November 4, 1986.

162 Notes and New Techniques GEMS & GEMOLOGY Fall 1987