Compass Rose Toolworks
Design and Plans: R. Krueger Modeling & Drafting: L. Dunn
Router Plane
Assembly Guide
Parts List
Front Rear/Bed
Two-Piece Hardwood Body
1/4”/20 Brass Knurled Bolt
1/4”/20 Brass Threaded Insert
1/2” Wide Blade
1/4“ Wide Blade
1/4”/20 Steel Hex Bolt
1/4”/20 Steel Hex Nuts
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Find the Center
Use a ruler to find
the center of the
front half of the
body. The center
is the highest part
of the curve.
Carry your center
line across the
front of the body
and mark the cen-
ter-point 3 ¼”
(82mm) from the
edge.
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Drill & Countersink
Drill through the front piece with a 13/32 (10mm) bit.
Your hole needs to be perpendicular in both direc-
tions. Use a pair of squares to keep the drill straight as
you drill. Counter-sink/chamfer the finished hole to
make the threaded insert easier to install.
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Drive Insert
Threaded
Insert Install the two nuts on the hex-head bolt
Tool (included) and tighten them firmly. This
tool will help you install the threaded insert.
Screw the threaded insert onto the bolt,
place the whole assembly in the hole you
just drilled, and rotate to the right with firm
downward pressure until the threads of the
insert are seated. A nut-driver is good for
starting the threads. Its length makes it easy
to keep perpendicular.
Once the threads are started, you may need
to switch to a wrench for more torque. A
socket wrench is preferred, but even an inex-
pensive adjustable wrench will work. Tight-
en the threaded insert until it sits just below
the surface of the wood, then reverse the
wrench and remove the installation tool.
Optionally, you can wax the threads of the
insert to make installation easier.
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Locate Blade Slot
The blade slot is cut in the front half of the body. Use a
square to strike a line on one side of the hole you just
drilled, then place one of the included blades against the
line and trace the opposite side with a pencil.
Make sure your layout lines are centered on the hole, and
then cut them with a marking knife and square. It helps
to cut the blade slot slightly oversized (1/32”/ 1mm), so
move one of your lines slightly before knifing it.
Saw down your layout lines with a fine-tooth saw and
chisel out the waste between them. The completed slot
should be slightly deeper than the thickness of blade and
the blade should slide easily in and out of the slot.
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Build Cradle, Glue, & Clamp
Glue
Screw two pieces of wood to a flat surface. This
“cradle” will let you clamp the tool together without
the pieces sliding around. The two halves of the
router should be held firmly with no wiggle. Apply
glue to the front half of the body only and clamp it in
place. Only two clamps should be necessary. Practice
clamping the pieces before adding glue.
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Trim & File Thumb Screw
Hold the brass thumb-screw in a
clamp or vise and cut off ½ inch
(13 mm) from the threaded shaft
using a standard hack saw.
Smooth and round over the cut
end with a file. This step is op-
tional. Letting the screw stick
out won’t hurt the tool’s perfor-
mance.
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Cut Front Radius
Cutting away mate-
rial in front of the
mouth will improve
visibility. Trace on
a curve that just
touches the front of
the mouth. You can
use any radius you
like or use a decora-
tive shape like a
lambs-tongue. Saw
vertical relief cuts
and scoop out the
waste with a bev-
el-down chisel.
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Finished Product
Your router is complete! You might
need to sand or plane the glue-line to
clean up the joint. The body can be
sanded and finished or left as it is.
The blades are ready to use and are
already ground at the correct 25°
angle. They just need to be honed.
When using the plane, the brass
thumb-screw should be tightened
firmly, but do not over-tighten.
Never grip the thumb-screw with
pliers or any other tool. The blade
can be advanced by tapping the back
gently with a hammer or by releasing
the thumb-screw. Keep the blades
oiled to prevent rust.
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