Double cloths are those fabrics which consist of two layers of threads that are woven one above

the
other and stitched together. These fabrics consist of a minimum of two series of warp threads, and two
series of weft threads, face and back. They are also known as two ply fabrics. The upper layer is formed
by interlacing the face warp threads with the face weft threads, and lower layer by interlacing the back
warp threads with the back weft threads. There are two objectives in producing double cloths :
(a) To enhance the thermal resistance value of the fabric, and
(b) To give a good appearance and feel.

Double cloths are classified into the following categories

In these type of cloths the face fabric is formed by the interlacement of the face warp and weft threads
and the back fabric is formed by the interlacement of the back warp and weft threads. The two fabric
layers are stitched at intermediate points by either face/back warp or face/back weft or both. A typical
structure with the different possible methods of stitching is shown in Fig.14.1A.
 101

In these types of cloths, besides the face and back series of threads, a third series of threads are
introduced as stitching threads at intervals. The stitching can be warp or weft way or both. The stitching
threads lie between the face and back layers of the cloth and are visible on the face or back at the
stitching points. Fig. 14.1B shows a centre stitched double cloth.

These cloths resemble the self stitched double cloths as the stitching is by means of either the face or the
back threads themselves. However the difference lies in the fact that a group of face threads interlace or
stitch with another group of back threads at regular intervals. A typical structure is shown in Fig. 14.1C.

In these types of cloths, unlike the previous ones, the cloth layers change places at intervals. The firmness
of this type of structure depends on the frequency of the exchange of the face and back layers of the
cloth. This type of structure is shown in Fig. 14.1 D.

In these types of cloths, the group of threads forming the face are merged together with those of the back
to form a single layer at intervals. The face layer is separated from the back wherever a figure is formed.
A structure of this kind is shown in Fig. 14.1 E.
Figs. 14.1 F and G show double cloths produced without stitching threads. These cloths become
single cloths after their removal from the loom. At F is shown a double width cloth and at G is shown a
tubular.
102

DOUBLE WIDTH

TUBULAR

In a self stitched double cloth, one series of warp and weft interlace to form the face fabric and the other
series of warp and weft interlace to form the back fabric. The face and back threads have to be arranged
in a suitable order depending on the fabric to be woven. Generally separate weaves are chosen for the
face and back fabrics. Sometimes the weaves may be similar. By the interlacement of the corresponding
face threads the face fabric is formed and so also is the back fabric. The self stitched double cloths are
constructed on the following principles:
(a) Stitching face to back - the face thread is lowered below the back thread, and
(b) Stitching back to face - the back thread is raised above the face warp thread.
Fig. 14.2 shows the formation of the self stitched double cloth and the methods of stitching.

I { {
IV

II { V
{
III
{
The face and back threads are arranged in the ratio of 1:1, and the weave for both sets of threads is an
oxford (2 and 2 weft rib). The dots represent the warp threads and the lines represent the weft picks.
Fig. I shows that the first face pick is inserted. It can be seen that all the back warp threads are below the
face pick. It can also be seen that half of the face warp threads are raised above the face pick to form the
face weave. Fig. II shows the insertion of the first back pick. It can clearly be seen that all the face warp
threads are well above the first inserted back pick. Also half of the back warp threads are floating above
the back weft to form the back weave. Fig. III shows that when each set of warp threads is allowed to
interlace with its corresponding weft, two layers of fabrics result. These fabrics are separate and
detached from one another. Fig. IV shows the stitching together of the two layers of the fabrics by
causing the back weft to stitch over the face warp. Fig. V shows the stitching together of the two layers
of the fabrics by causing the face weft to stitch over the back warp. Thus the last two diagrams represent
the two principles of stitching self stitched double cloths.

The type of weave to be chosen for the face and the back fabrics is dependent on the ratio of the face and
back threads . For example when the ratio of the face to back threads is 1:1, weaves such 3/1 twill can be
 103

used for the face and the back weave can be 2/2 twill or 2/3 twill. It is to be noted that even if the weaves
are not similar at least the relative number of intersections should be similar. When the ratio of the face
to back threads is 2:1, a weave such as plain can be chosen and the back weave can be a 2 and 2 matt rib
or a 2/2 twill. Also weaves such as 3/1 twill can be backed by 4/4 twill and so on.
The ratio of the face and back threads is based mainly on the consideration of the weight of the face
fabric. However, the proportion of the weft threads is determined by the method of the weft insertion in
the loom. The thread ratios generally preferred are 1:1 and 2:1 for the face and back. The relative
thicknesses of the face and back fabrics is governed by choosing relative counts which are in proportion
to the thread density per unit area.

The face and back cloths have to be joined or stitched together in such a way that the appearance of
either of the fabrics does not get affected. When the face warp is lowered below the back pick, then it
must be well below the face weft and above the back warp threads and vice versa. The manner of
stitching depends on the character of the weave. For warp faced weaves stitching by means of the back
warp over the face weft is suitable. In the case of weft faced weaves, the face ends can be brought below
the back picks. In some cases both the methods of stitching can be combined together.

Self stitched double cloths are constructed by the following methods:

(a) Stitching from face to back
(b) Stitching from back to face
(c) Combination stitching.

In this method the face and back fabrics are stitched together by lowering the face warp below the back
weft. The various stages of constructing the design is shown in Fig. 14.3.

WEFT
WARP
A
WEFT
WARP
B C D F G
4 X 4 IV IV / / / IV X 4
3 X 3 III III / / / III X 3
2 X 2 II II / / / II X 2
1 X 1 I I / / / I X 1
1 2 3 4 1 2 3 4 I II III IV I II III IV

1 2 3 4
E I II III IV
104

IV / X / O /
4 X
III O / / X /
3 X J
II / / X / O
2 X
I / O / / X
1 X
1 I 2 II 3 III 4 IV I
1 1

The stitching of the two layers of fabrics is shown at A. The arrow marks denote the stitching of face
warp with back weft. Since the face warp is stitching with the back weft the warp should have long
overlap on the back side. Hence it is necessary to use weft faced weaves with long warp floats at the
back. The back fabric also should have weft faced weave. This is because the long weft floats on the
upper side of the back fabric can be used for stitching with the warp threads of the face fabric.
The face and back fabrics have been constructed by using a 4 end irregular sateen weave. The design
of the face and back fabrics are shown at B and F respectively. The design at B is denoted by arabic
numerals and that of the design at F is denoted by roman numerals. This has been done for the purpose
of clarity. The weft way cross section of the double fabric is shown at C, with the first warp thread of the
design as the reference. The first warp thread of the face fabric stitches with the third pick of the back
fabric. This is considered as the most suitable stitching point because it is in the middle of the warp float.
In other words the first face warp is lowered below the third back weft (III). The other stitching points
are selected on the same basis. Fig. D shows the interlacement of all the face warp threads with the back
weft threads. This method of choosing the intersections allows uniform distribution of the binding points.
Fig. E shows the arrangement of warp overlaps on the back weave. This depends on the position of the
binding points at D. From Fig. B and F it is clear that long warp floats are placed on the backside of the
two fabrics. On observing the Fig. A, it can be seen that the face weft threads are above the back warp
threads. Thus the interlacement of the face weft with the back warp is shown at G, which is blank,
indicating no interlacement.
The final design of the double fabric is shown at H. The ratio of the face and back threads (warp and
weft) is 1:1. The face and back picks are inserted alternately. The warp floats at B, D and F are
incorporated at H. Figure I shows the warp way cross section of the double fabric. The first face and
back weft of the design are shown for reference. Fig. J shows the weft way cross section in which the
first face and back warp threads of the design are shown for reference. The final design shown at H will
require 8 heald shafts using a divided draft.

In this method the face and back fabrics are stitched together by causing the back warp to stitch with the
face weft. Hence the stitching back warp threads are caused to float above the correspoding face weft
picks. The various stages of construction of the double cloth constructed by this method is shown in
Fig. 14.4.
 105

A
WARP
WEFT

WARP
WEFT
B D E G F
5 XX XX 5 V / / / / / V XXX X
4 XX X X 4 IV / / / / / IV XXXX
3 X X XX 3 III / / / / / III X X X X
2 XX X X 2 II / / / / / II X X X X
1 XX XX 1 I / / / / / I X XXX
12 3 4 5 I II IIIIV V 1 2 3 4 5 I II IIIIV V
C1
V
V / X / X / X / O / X
5 X X O X X 5
IV / O / X / X / X / X IV
4 X X X X O 4
III / X / X / O / X / X III J
3
3 X O X X X
H II II
/ X / X / X / X / 2
2 X X X O X I
I / X / O / X / X / X 1
1 X X X X
1 I
1 I 2 II 3 III 4 IV 5 V
1 2 3 4 5
1
I II III IV V
I
I

The method of stitching is indicated in Fig. A. In order to achieve this type of stitching the lower side
of the face fabric should have long weft floats and the upper side of the back fabric should have longer
warp floats. Figure B shows the design for the face, which is a warp faced sateen. The weave has long
floats of warp on the face and long weft floats on the back. This aids in selecting the stitching point of the
back warp with the face weft. As in the previous case the design of the face fabric and that of the back
fabric are indicated by arabic and roman numerals respectively. B and F indicate the designs of the face
and back weaves respectively. C shows the warp way cross section of the design with the first weft pick
as reference. The stitching point is selected in the middle of the long weft float at the lower side of the
face fabric. D shows the interlacement of the face weft with the back warp. E shows the weft way cross
section of the interlacement at D, using the first back warp as reference. The intersection points are
represented by dots. The design for the back weave is constructed using D as the basis. The final design
of the double cloth shown at H is obtained by combining B, D, G and [Link] repeat size of the design is
10 ¥ 10. The warp way cross section of the design at H is shown at I. The first face and back weft threads
of the design are shown as interlacing threads for reference. This clearly shows the intsection of the back
warp with the face weft, i.e. the first face pick stitches with the third back warp in the figure at I. At J is
shown the weft way cross section of the design H with the first face and back warps stitching with the
weft threads, as reference. Here too the manner of interlacing of the face and back warps with the
corresponding weft threads is shown. The first back warp stitches with the second face weft in the
design.
As the repeat size of the design H is 10 the number of heald shafts required will obviously be 10. As
in the previous case, since there are two series of warp threads, the divided draft is suitable.
106

In this method of stitching the two layers of fabrics are stitched mutually by the face and back threads.
The face warp stitches with the back weft threads and the back warp with the face weft threads. The
various stages of constructing the double cloth by this method is shown in Fig. 14.5.

WARP WEFT
WEFT WARP

WARP WEFT
WEFT WARP

B C E
6 X X X 6 VI VI O
5 X X X 5 V V O
4 X X X 4 IV IV O
3 X X X 3 III III O
2 X X X 2 II II O
1 X X X I O
1 I
1 2 3 4 5 6 1 2 3 4 5 6
1 2 3 4 5 6
I II III IV V VI G
/ VI X X O X
/ V X O X X
/ IV O X X X
/ III O X X X
/ II X X X O
/ I X X X O
H
VI X X O X
VI
6 X / X X / 6
V X O X X
V
5 X X X 5
IV O X X X
IV
4 X 4
III O X XX J
III
3 X X / X 3
II X X X O
II
2 X X / X 2
I X X X O
I
1 X X / X 1
1 I 2 II 3 III 4 IV 5 V 6 VI
1
1 2 3 4 5 6 1 1
I II III IV V VI
I

Fig. A shows the method of stitching. As can be seen both the previously mentioned methods are
combined together. The lower portion of the face fabric and upper portion of the back fabric will have
long warp and weft floats.
The base weave is one which has warp floats equal to the weft floats on the face as well as on the back
of the fabric. The base weave for the face and back fabrics is 3/3 twill. As in the previous cases, the face
 107

and back threads (warp and weft) are denoted by arabic and roman numerals respectively. B shows the
interlacement of the threads for the face fabric. C shows weft way cross section of B for construction of
the weave E (interlacement of the face warp with the back weft). The numbered circles at C indicate the
corresponding weft threads and the line represents the face warp thread. It can be seen that the first face
warp is lowered below the third back weft (III). The other interlacements are done on this basis. The
weave at E is constructed of the basis of these sections, where the warp floats are marked by dots and
weft floats by circles.
Fig. F shows the interlacement of the back warp threads with the face weft threads. F has been
constructed on the basis of cross section of the face weave shown at B. D shows the warp way cross
section with the first pick of face weft as reference. The warp floats at F are denoted by half crosses. The
design G is constructed based on E and F. F shows the manner of interlacement of the back warp with the
face weft. The warp overlaps from F are transferred to G.
The ratio of the face and back threads for warp and weft is 1:1. The final design of the double cloth
shown at H is constructed by combining B, E, F and G. The warp and weft way cross sections of the
double cloth are shown at I and J respectively. The first face and back weft are considered for reference
at I. The first face and back warp threads are considered as reference at J. From the cross section at I and
J, the combination stitching can be seen.

The purpose of introducing wadding threads is very similar to that seen in the case of bedford cord and
welts. They are used to add weight and substance to the double cloth. The wadding threads may be
introduced warp or weft way. The yarns used are generally considerably coarser than the other threads
and are made of cheaper material. Thus economy is an added advantage. The commonest ratios are 1:1,
2:2 and 2:1 ( wadded : face and back).

In these fabrics, the wadding threads are introduced warp way. This is a more convenient and economical
method compared to the previous one. However, greater strain is put on the warp threads in weaving and
this necessitates the use of a better quality wadding material. An example is shown in Fig. 14.6. The
face and back weaves are given at A and B respectively, while the complete design is given at C and the
draft at D. The ends are arranged in the order of 1 face, 1 back, 1 wadding, and the picks 1 face, 1 back.
The face weave is 8 thread twilled hopsack, the back weave is 2 and 2 twill, and a sateen order for back
warp tying lifts is used. In the warp wadded structures the wadding ends must be raised on all back picks
and left down on all face picks.
A B
8 X X X X 8 X X X X
7 X X X X 7 X X X X
6 X X X X 6 X X X X
5 X X X X 5 X X X X
4 X X X X 4 X X X X
3 X X X X 3 X X X X
2 X X X X 2 X X X X
1 X X X X 1 X X X X
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 I II III IV V VI VIIVIII
108

17 / / / / / / / /
16 X
15 X
14 X
13 X
12 X
11 X
10 X
9 X
8 X
7 X
6 X
5 X
4 X
3 X
2 X
1 X
D

F
VIII
VIII / X / X / / / X / X / /
8
8 X X O X X VII
VII / / X / X / / / X / X /
7
7 X X X X O
VI / / / X / X / / / X / VI
6
C 6 X X X X O X
V / X / / / X / X / / / V
5
5 X X O X X X
IV / X / X / / / X / X / / IV
4
4 X X X O X
III / / X / X / / / X / X / III
3 X X O X 3
4 X / / / X / X / / / X / II
2 X O X X X 2
1 X / X / / / X / X / / / I
I X X X O X 1
1 I W 2 II W 3 III W 4 IV W 5 V W 6 VI W 7 VIIW 8 VIIIW

4 5 6 7 8
1 2 3

VI

I II III IV V VII VIII

The draft for the design C is given at D. The wadding ends require only one heald, but in fine sets, to
avoid crowding, they may be drawn on two or more healds which are then operated as one.
The introduction of wadding threads increases the strength of a double cloth in the direction of the
wadding yarn; and sometimes, for the purpose of obtaining increased firmness the wadding threads are
 109

stitched to the double cloth, these stitches being placed next to the ordinary stitches in order to minimize
their effect. Thus, in stitching the wadding weft in Fig. 14.7, each back end would pass over the wadding
pick which precedes the normal stitch. In Fig. 14.6 wadding ends would also lift over the face picks on
the right of each backing warp stitch.

These cloths are constructed by introducing wadded threads along weft. The wadded picks lie in between
the face and back picks. A typical design is shown in Fig. 14.7 below.

4 X X X IV X IV X
3 X X X III X 4 X X X O
2 X X X II X III X
1 X X X I X 3 X O X X
1 2 3 4 I II III IV II X
2 X X O X
A B I X
1 X O X X
1 I 2 II 3 III 4 IV
C
1 I
D
W / /
IV X IV
4 X X X O 4
W / / / /
III
III X 3 3 F
3 X O X X
W / / / /
II X II
2 X X O X 2
W / / / /
I X I
1 X O X X 1
1 I 2 II 3 III 4 IV

1 1 2 3 4

W II
I I III IV

In the figure above, A is the plan of the face weave, and B of the back weave. Since the wadding yarn
simply lies between the two fabrics without interweaving with either, the same conditions are necessary,
so far as regards the face weave, the ties and the back weave, as in the construction of double cloths. The
wadded design is therefore exactly the same as the ordinary double design except for the inclusion of the
wadding threads, and in order that comparisons may be made, the double weave without the wadding is
given at C.
In the complete design, given at D the cross marks indicate the face weave, the circles the ties (back
warp up on the face picks), the circled cross marks the back weave, the dots the face ends up on the back
110

picks, while diagonals are inserted to show the lifts of the wadding threads. It will be noted that in weft
wadded structures all face ends are up, and all back ends are down, on wadding picks. E and F show the
warp and weft way cross sections respectively. The wadding threads are represented as being of a larger
diameter than the face and back threads.
In the above example the picks are arranged in the order of 1 face, 1 back, 1 wadding; and the ends 1
face, 1 back. The 4 thread satinette weave, warp surface on both sides of the cloth, is employed, the tying
being effected by raising the backing ends in a similar order over the face picks. In the corresponding
sectional views, the section on the right of the final design D, shows the interweaving of the ends 1 and
I, and that below of the picks 1, 2 and W.

In the self stitched double cloths it was seen that the face and back cloths were stitched together either by
face with back threads or vice versa. However in the case of center stitched double cloths the face and
back cloths are stitched together by means of a third group of threads known as center threads. These
threads neither belong to the face or the back cloth. They are introduced in between the face and back
fabrics separately. The center threads which form the stitching are normally finer than the face and the
back threads. The firmness of the stitch is lesser compared to the self stitched double cloth. The cloth
stitched by this method has a softer and fuller handle. The center stitching method is applicable to cases
where there is difference in thickness or colour between the face and back yarns. There are two methods
of center stitching, namely,
(i) Centre warp stitching, and
(ii) Center weft stitching.

In this method of stitching a separate series of warp threads is introduced between the face and back
warps. This warp stitches with the face and back weft threads. The various stages of construction of the
double cloth are shown in Fig. 14.8.
A

WARP

WEFT

WARP

WEFT

WARP

B D E F H
4 XXX 4 4 IV IV / / / IV X
3 X X X 3 3 III III / / / III X
2 XX X 2 2 II II / / / II X
1 XX X 1 1 I I / / / I X
12 3 4 n1n2n3n4 n1n2n3n4 I II III IV
 111

1 2 3 4
C I n1 n2 n3 n4
n1n2n3n4 G
I II III IV
I J
IV \ \ \ \ 4
III \ \ \ \ 3
II \ \ \ \ 2
I \ \ \ \ 1
1 2 3 4 I II III IV
IV \ \ / \ / X \ / O
4 X X X O
III \ / X \ / \ \ / O
3 X X X O
O
II \ / \ \ / \ / X
2 X X X O
O M
I \ / \ / \ / \
1 X X X X O
1 n1 I 2 n2 II 3 n3 III 4 n4 IV I
O 1 n1
O O
1 O O O L
O O
O O O
I O

It can be seen that this method of stitching requires three series of warp threads and two series of weft
threads. As usual the face and back designs are denoted by arabic and roman numerals respectively. The
center warp threads which form the stitching threads are denoted by the letter ‘n’ with indices.
Fig. A indicates the manner of stitching of the center warp with the face and back wefts. At B is
shown the design of the face fabric. C shows the warp way cross section of the face weave with the
interlacement of first face weft stitching over the face and center warp threads. D shows the stitching of
the extra warp with the face weft. The stitching point is selected in the middle of the float. The stitching
points are selected based on the figures C and E. F shows the stitching of the center-warp with the back
weft. The center warp threads are denoted as n1, n2, n 3 and n4. The semi cross marks indicate the overlap
of center warp threads over the back weft picks.
Fig. H shows the design of the back cloth. For construction of the weave at H the section G of the
weave F is made at the first weft thread of the back cloth. Figure I shows the mutual position of the face
warp and the back weft. It can clearly be seen that all the face warp threads are well above the back weft
threads. J shows the mutual position of the back warp and the face weft. It is obvious that all the back
warp threads are below the face weft threads and hence all the squares at J are left blank.
The weave repeat is found before constructing the weave of the double fabric, considering the basic
weave repeat. The ratio of the face, center and back warp threads is 1:1:1 and the face to back weft
threads is 1:1. The repeat size of the double cloth design shown at K is 12 ¥ 8. The final design at K is
constructed by transferring the warp overlaps at B, D, F, H and I. Figures L and M show the warp and
weft way cross sections of the double cloth respectively.
The design at K requires 12 heald shafts. A divided draft is suitable and the heald shafts are divided
into three groups (for face, center and back warps).

In this method of stitching, the face and back fabrics are stitched together by means of an extra set of
weft threads that pass in between them. The system obviously requires two series of warp threads and
112

three series of weft threads. The center weft threads which form the stitching threads pass over the face
and back warp threads at suitable intervals. For this method of stitching it is preferable to have the warp
floats on the lower sides of the face and back fabrics. This enables easier selection of stitching or
binding points. Fig. 14.9 shows design of the center weft stitched double cloths.
A

WEFT

WARP

WEFT

WARP

WEFT

C F G D H
B
n4 n4 X X X IV
4 X 4 O n4 n4 4
n3 O n3 n3 n3 X X X III
3 X 3 n2 O
3
n2 X X X II
2 X 2 n2 n2 2
1 n1 O n1 n1 n1 X X X I
1 X 1
12 3 4 I II III IV 12 3 4 I II III IV

n1 1 2 3 4
I II III IV
E
I J
IV / / / / 4
III / / / / 3
II / / / / 2
I / / / / 1
1 2 3 4 I II III IV
K
IV / / X / X / X O
n4 O O
4 X O
III / X / / X / X O
n3 O O
3 X O
O
II / X / X / X /
O M
n2 O O
2 X O
I / X / X / / X
O
n1 O O
1 X
1 I 2 II 3 III 4 IV 1 2

O O
1 O O L
O O
n1 O O
I
 113

The design of the double cloth is constructed in various stages shown in the diagram above. The basic
weave chosen is 4 end irregular sateen. Fig. A shows the manner of stitching of the center weft with the
face and the back warps. B shows the design of the face fabric, which is a 4 end irregular sateen. C
shows the weft way cross section indicating the interlacement of the first face warp with the face and
center weft threads. D shows the interlacement of the warp with the center weft threads. The center weft
threads are denoted as n 1, n2, n3, and n4. Fig. E shows the warp way cross section indicating the
interlacement of the first center weft thread with the face and back warp threads. F shows the
interlacement of the extra weft threads with the back warp threads. Diagram G shows the weft way cross
section of the center and back weft threads with the interlacement of the first back warp thread. Figure I
shows the position of the face warp threads in relation to the back weft threads. It can be seen that all the
face warp threads are above the back weft threads. J shows the back warp threads in relation to the back
weft threads. It can clearly be seen that all the back warp threads come below the face weft threads and
hence all the squares at J are left blank.
The Fig. D is constructed on the basis of the design of the face weave at B. The stitching points of the
face warp with the center weft is selected on the basis of the cross section at C. The diagram at F is
constructed considering Fig. D as the basis. The design of the back fabric at H is constructed on the
basis of the Fig. F. Also considering the cross sectional view at G, the design at H has been constructed.
The final design of the double fabric is constructed as shown at K. This is done by transferring the
warp floats of the weave at B, D, F, H, I, and J. Figure M shows the weft way cross section of the double
fabric at K. The interlacement of the first face and back warp with the face, back and center weft threads
can be seen. At L is shown the warp way cross section of the double fabric K. The manner of
interlacement of the first face, center and back weft threads with the face and back warp threads can
clearly be seen. Thus the design of a center weft stitched double cloth is constructed.

Double cloths find uses in industrial applications such as hose pipes, filter cloths, insulation fabrics etc.
They are also used in overcoats where a thin fabric is used as internal cloth and a heavier fabric is used
as outer cloth.

1. What are double cloths?

2. Give similarities and differences between double cloths and backed cloths.
3. How are double cloths classified?
4. Differentiate between self and centre stitched double cloths.
5. What are the principles of constructing self stitched double cloths?
6. What is the role of wadding threads?
7. Give the end uses of double cloths.

1. Write a note on the different types of double cloths.

2. Explain the self stitched double cloths.
3. Discuss the center stitched double cloths.