Printing and Finishing
(TTPC 303)
Dyeing of polyester cotton blends
(Only for academic purpose during Covid time)
Dr. Lalit Jajpura,
Associate Professor, Department of Textiles
Technology,
Polyester dyeing-Disperse dyes
Insoluble but smaller molecular size thus able to
keep disperse by the help of dispersing agent.
Dyeing take place by free volume model.
Structure needs to be swelled
• Carrier Dyeing
• HTHP
• Thermosol dyeing
Cellulose Dyeing
Direct
Reactive
Vat
Sulphur
Azoic
Solubilized Vat
Dyeing of P/C blend
Batch wise (Exhaust Dyeing)
Continuous dyeing (padding mangle and other assisting machines)
Batch wise (Exhaust Dyeing)
Two bath
Single bath
One step
Two step
Disperse/reactive Disperse/Vat Disperse dyes/Direct
Machines:
Beam dyeing
Jet dyeing
High temperature winch or jigger
Two bath
Polyester Dyeing Reduction Clearing Cellulosic dyeing Soaping and washing
In case of carrier dying two bath are preferred as stability of carries emulsion is limited in
presence of salt and auxiliaries used for cotton.
Single Bath: Simultaneously
Disperse/Vat: Addition of Disperse and vat dye simultaneously
Recipe
Disperse dye: X%
Vat dye: Y%
Dispersing Agent: 0.5-1%
Wetting Agent: 0.5-1%
pH: 4-5
Polyester dyeing at 120-135 degree C for 60-90 min
Cotton dyeing: Reduction of temp to 80 degree and addition of caustic soda and hydros
Addition of salt 10-15 gpl (IW class). Temp is reduced to 50-60 degree Centigrade; time 30-60
min.
Oxidation: Hydrogen peroxide (35%): 1-2 ml/litre at 50 degree centigrade for 15 min
Soaping: Anionic detergent: 0.5-1 gpl; pH: 9-10 at 90-95 degree centigrade for 15 min
Single Bath: Two step by Disperse/Vat
Disperse dying at HTHP-> cooling of bath to 80 deg C addition of Vat dye->
Addition of caustic soda and hydros -> oxidation -> Soaping
Single Bath: Disperse/Reactive
Alkali stable disperse dye
High Temperature resistant reactive dyeing (Procion HE)
Dyeing
Polyester and cotton is dyeing at boil to 110 deg C
After Polyester dyeing - 70-80 deg C addition of alkalig
Continuous dyeing of P/C fabric
Disperse/vat dyes (both should be very fine )
Padding the fabric with disperse/vat
Intermediate pre drying and drying (100-110 degree )
Thermosol treatment
Temp:200 to 220 degree centigrade
Time: 90 to 60 second
Migration inhibitor
Sodium alginate
Chemical padding, steaming and fixing of vat dye
• Pad steam method
• Suitable for light and medium shade: Steamed at 100 deg C for 25-40 sec
• Pad jig development
• Suitable for dark shade: Jigger machine is used
• Caustic Soda (70 degree tw): 10-20 ml/lit
• Sodium Hydrosulphide: 10-20 gpl
• Salt: 20-40 gpl
Continuous dyeing by Disperse/reactive
One bath one step Pad bath Recipe:
Disperse dye: X%
Reactive Dye: Y%
Sodium bicarbonate: 5-20 gpl
Urea: 100-200 gpl Migration Inhibitor: 10-20 gpl
Wetting agent: 1-2 gpl
Process
Padding with disperse/ reactive dyes
Drying (100-110 degree C)
Thermo fixation (190-200 degree C fro 90-60 min)
Soaping and washing
Disperse dyeing must be alkali stable whereas reactive dye must be stable at
thermosole temperature.
Urea: help in fixation of reactive and disperse dye; Reduce discolouration of
cellulosice; Help in dissolution of reactive dyes. Although it generate objectionable
odour.
Two step: pad –dry- thermosol - alkali pad -steam
Padding with disperse (alkali sensitive)+ reactive dye
Disperse dye:x%
Reactive dye: y%
Migration inhibitor:10gpl
Wetting agent:1-2 gpl
Drying and Thermosol Process
Padding with Alkali
Alkali (70 degree Tw): 30 ml/lit
Glauber salt: 250 gpl
Steaming or pad batch
Steamign: 102 degree C fro30-60 Sec
Or
Pad bathc for 2-8 hrs
Soaping and washing
Continuous dyeing with Solubilised Vat
Solubilised vat dye: X%
Sodium nitrite: 5gpl
Soda Ash: 1 gpl
Wetting agent: 1 gpl
For pale shade solubilised vat dyes also effective
for polyester component
Pad- treatment with sulphuric acid-- thermoset
at 180-190 degree C.
Recommended books
1. V A Shenai, Technology of Bleaching and Mercerising, Vol 2, Sevak Publication, Mumbai
(1991).
2. Peters R. H, “Textile Chemistry”, Vol - II, Elsevier Publishing Company, London (1967).
3. Shore J, “Cellulosics dyeing”, Society of Dyers and Colourists, Bradford, UK (1979).
4. Karmakar S R, “Chemical Technology in the pretreatment processes of Textiles”, Textile
Science and Technology Series, Vol-12, 1st Edition, Elsevier (1999).
5. Chemical Processing of Textiles: Preparatory Processing and dyeing by NCUTE
Publications
Thank you