Micro-dermabrasion Diploma

Training Manual

This is part of the Level 3 diploma in facial applications

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Contents

Section One
Introduction
Course Objective

Section Two History

Microdermabrasion
What is
Microdermabrasion
?
Exfoliation and
Microdermabrasion How does
Microdermabrasion work?
Crystal Microdermabrasion/Diamond
Microdermabrasion Microdermabrasion Machines
Benefits of the
treatment
Equipment/Product
s needed Carrying
out the treatment

Section Three Contraindications

Contra action
Client Consultation Form
GP Referral Letter

Section Four Hygiene

Preparing your Work Area
Sterilization and Disinfection
Health & Safety
Industry Regulations

Section Five Professional Ethics

Insurance
Data Protection/Client
Confidentiality Risk
Assessment

Section Six Marketing

Client Advice/Aftercare Advice/Skin Patch Testing

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 Section Seven Anatomy and Physiology

Section Eight Skin Conditions Microdermabrasion can treat

Questionnaire

Section Nine Treatment Procedures

Section Ten Case Studies

Section One

Introduction

Whether this is your first beauty therapy course or you are already an experienced
practitioner of other beauty therapies, we will endeavour that you learn all you can about
Micro-dermabrasion and finish the course feeling confident that you will be able to provide
this phenomenal therapy on your clients, friends and family.

When carrying out a treatment it is important to remember your own comfort. You should not
put your body under any unnecessary stress, strain or fatigue and therefore during the
treatment you will need to perfect your own posture.

Objective

The course aims to teach you the principles of a Micro-dermabrasion treatment and how to
perform it practically and safely.

Please read and study the course manual prior to attending the course.

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Section Two

History of Micro-dermabrasion

The whole idea of removing the upper layer of skin dates back to 1500BC in Egypt.
Egyptians would use sandpaper to smooth skin, so even they realised the importance of
exfoliating.

Now Micro-dermabrasion has become one of the top 3 aesthetic procedures in the world with
beginnings in Europe in 1985 by Matiolli and Bruto.

A year after the first Micro-dermabrasion unit was developed this method of mechanical
exfoliation was becoming popular. Towards the end of 1992 a number of Micro-dermabrasion
units started appearing on the market.

Exfoliation and Microdermabrasion

These are based on the principles of wound healing. By wounding and removing the
uppermost layers of the skin in a controlled manner, cell renewal is stimulated with
regeneration of a healthier epidermis and dermis. Histological evaluation of facial skin after
repeated Micro-dermabrasion (MDA) treatments demonstrates a reparative wound-healing
process with regeneration of a compacted stratum corneum and a smoother epidermis. Skin
hydration increases with improved epidermal barrier function, and fibroblast stimulation
increases dermal thick- ness through production of new collagen and elastin.

Traditionally, MDA devices have used crystals as the abrasive element. Negative pressure
draws the skin to the hand-piece tip, and crystals superficially abrade the skin’s surface as
they pass across the epidermis. Used crystals and cellular debris are aspirated and collected
separately for disposal after treatment. Each pass of the hand piece removes approximately
15 mm of skin, and two passes of most MDA devices fully remove the stratum corneum. The
depth of resurfacing achieved with MDA is comparable to a superficial chemical peel. MDA
offers certain advantages over chemical peel treatments such as greater control over the
depth of exfoliation, comparatively minimal discomfort, and no “downtime” for skin flaking and
peeling.

MDA treatments are most commonly performed on the face, neck, chest, and hands. In
general, facial skin tolerates more aggressive treatments and tends to show greater
improvements than non-facial areas. Epidermal healing is thought to be related to the density
of the hair follicles and eccrine sweat glands within a treatment area.

The facial epidermis has a greater density of adnexa relative to the non-facial epidermis,
such as the neck and chest, which may account for its greater rejuvenation potential. Other
treatment areas include the back and hyperkeratotic areas such as elbows and knees.
Results from MDA treatments are cumulative, and typically a series of six treatments is
recommended at bimonthly intervals. Results are not usually clinically evident after a single
treatment. However, patients who have had little or no skin care previously may report
improvements. Maintenance treatments may be performed every 4 to 6 weeks.
MDA device with abrasive element (e.g., crystals, diamond tips).
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Aluminium oxide is the most commonly used crystal and is ideal for MDA because it is inert
and second only to diamonds in hardness. Other crystals used include sodium chloride,
sodium bicarbonate, and magnesium oxide. Crystal-free MDA devices have become popular
because of the lack of dust and associated risks of ocular injury. Diamond-tipped devices
employ diamond-tipped pads as the abrasive element and can be used with topical solutions
for dermal infusion.

Beauty therapists carrying out Micro-dermabrasion treatments commonly use medical grade
aluminium oxide crystals to perform treatments. These usually have a grit of 120. The grade
of grit determines the how abrasive the treatment will be. The lower the grit the more
abrasive the crystals are. Generally, dermatologists and cosmetic surgeons will use lower grit
crystals which are coarser and more abrasive.

The table below shows the grits of aluminium oxide crystals:

Grit Sizes of Aluminum Oxide Crystals

16

24

36

46

60

80

100

12- (used by Beauty therapists)

150

180

220

240

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Micro-dermabrasion is an advanced skin treatment which can range from providing a simple
exfoliation treatment to treating wrinkles and scars. Microdermabrasion treatments have
many uses in beauty therapy treatments. It has in recent years become an extremely popular
salon and spa treatment. This treatment was once only used in dermatology treatments but is
now becoming widely used in salons.

It is an exfoliation treatment based on the principles of wound healing. By wounding and

removing the uppermost layers of the skin in a controlled manner, cell renewal is stimulated
with regeneration of a healthier epidermis and dermis.

Histological evaluation of facial skin after repeated Micro-dermabrasion (MDA) treatments

demonstrates a reparative wound-healing process with regeneration of a compacted stratum
corneum and a smoother epidermis. Skin hydration increases with improved epidermal
barrier function, and fibroblast stimulation increases dermal thick- ness through production of
new collagen and elastin.

How does Microdermabrasion work?

Microdermabrasion works by exfoliating or abrading the surface of the skin in a controlled

method. It is in effect a peeling treatment. The therapist is able to control the rate of flow of
crystals and therefore the depth of peeling. Crystal Micro-dermabrasion is a fairly painless
and hygienic treatment. It must be carried out with great care as in theory it is possible to
abrade the skin over and over again and cause damage to the skin.

Crystal Microdermabrasion causes stimulation of the production of new cells in the lower
levels of the skin enabling increased cell turnover. The treatment also aids the skin in
improving its elasticity along with the smoothing the surface of the skin. Optimum results are
achieved in a course of ten treatments.
Crystal Microdermabrasion

During a treatment, super-fine crystals are sent from a receptacle on the MDM machine,
through a tube, and to a glass or stainless-steel wand. Via the wand, the crystals are sprayed
over the skin. As an analogy, think of it as controlled sandblasting.
The crystals and exfoliated skin particles are simultaneously vacuumed away through the
same wand. Used crystals are sent to a second receptacle on the machine, and are
discarded after the procedure.

Aluminium oxide (corundum) crystals are typically used, because they are nearly as hard
as diamonds. Magnesium oxide, sodium bicarbonate (baking soda), and even sodium
chloride (salt) crystals are sometimes used as well.

Diamond Microdermabrasion

With diamond MDM the exfoliation of the epidermis is performed with a diamond-tipped wand
instead of crystals. With even, steady pressure, a diamond-tipped wand is swept across the
treatment area. During the process, the skin must come in close contact with the diamond-

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tipped wand. Like microdermabrasion, there is a vacuum “action” that eliminates dead skin
cells and promotes healthy skin renewal.

Crystal Microdermabrasion Diamond Microdermabrasion

Both forms of MDM work similarly. The skin is deeply exfoliated by the crystals or the
diamond tip, so it feels softer and smoother immediately after treatment. The exfoliation also
helps reduce the formation of comedones (acne) and brightens the complexion.

The suction aspect of the treatment is as vital as the exfoliation itself (it isn’t just helpful in
sucking away exfoliated skin.) This suction is called negative pressure – the suction
stimulates the dermis, causing a re-modelling process to occur.

MDM triggers a wound response in the skin. As the skin repairs itself, it becomes thicker,
smoother, more elastic, and looks healthier as a result.

Some people prefer diamond MDM because of the lack of crystals. Breathing in aluminium
oxide crystals can be irritating, and can cause short-term breathing problems. Because the
MDM wand forms a closed loop system, the crystals are generally being suctioned back into
the machine and not spraying out into the air to be inhaled. Good practitioners limit their
clients' exposure to the crystals.

Microdermabrasion Machines
Microdermabrasion products and Microdermabrasion machines come in various forms
although the basic principles of the action of the machines upon the skin are largely the
same.
Machine units generally consist of the following:

 Low pressure suction pump

 Adjustable Compressor
 Micronized Aluminium Oxide Crystals (disposed of after use)
 Disposable sterile nozzle

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Micro-dermabrasion works by:

 Delivering a controlled flow of Micronized Aluminium Oxide

Crystals to the skin using an adjustable compressor feature
 The micronized Aluminium Oxide Crystals are fed through a disposable nozzle
 Exfoliated skin cells and used crystals are removed by vacuum suction through the
low-pressure suction pump

Benefits of Microdermabrasion Treatment

 Encourages cell renewal
 Encourages production of collagen
 No down-time/recovery time following treatment
 Can safely treat all skin colours and skin types
 Immediate visible results, helping to keep clients motivated
 Helps treat early signs of ageing
 Rejuvenation of aged skin
 Improves elasticity and muscle tone of skin through vacuum action
 Enhances penetration of products post treatment
 Comfortable and painless
 Smoother skin
 Can treat delicate areas surrounding the nose, eyes and mouth

Equipment/Products needed to perform Microdermabrasion treatment

• Diamond or Crystal Microdermabrasion machine
 Couch Roll
 Large Towel or Blanket to drape client
 Headband
 Facial cleanser, toner for appropriate skin types
 Soothing moisturiser
 Sun Screen
 Cotton Wool pads or Facial sponges
 Bowl for warm water
 Small bowl for jewellery
 Facial Tissues

Carrying out a Microdermabrasion treatment

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Firstly, you should have your work area prepared before you client arrives. Try and make
sure you:
• equipment is sterilised and materials and products are easily accessible.

• you follow the manufacturer’s guidelines for the Machinery

• Ensure that your personal hygiene and appearance meets accepted industry
standards

• The room is at an adequate temperature

• Adequate lighting

• Adequate ventilation

• Complete a consultation form

• Check for contra-indications

• Discuss a treatment that meet the client’s needs

• Remove any of the client’s jewellery, so that the treatment can be carried out. Keep in
a safe place and in the client’s view.

• Ensure the client is in a comfortable and relaxed position for the treatment.

• Ensure the client’s modesty, privacy and comfort are maintained at all times.

• When you are sure you and your client are ready you can begin the treatment

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Section Three

Contraindications

Contra Indications are conditions that may be present on a client, and are such that you
would have to adapt a treatment or not be allowed to proceed with the treatment, unless they
have written confirmation from their GP that it is safe to do so.

It is essential that you not only look for these problems, but you should have already asked
your client if they were aware of any issues when you did your consultation.

It is vital that you check for contra indications - should you ignore them, so that you can do
the treatment and get paid, you could find that the treatment makes the problem worse. If you
are at all unsure, you should suggest that the client visits his/her GP to have the matter
checked before you provide the treatment.

Conditions that are contraindicated to Microdermabrasion treatment

Contra-indication Characteristics of the Prevents or restricts

condition treatment?
Pregnancy An increase in hormones Prevents
can affect the skin during
pregnancy and this can
cause pigmentation. For
this reason, it is not advised
to perform MDM as the skin
could react in an
unexpected manner,
making the condition worse.
Cardiovascular GP referral needed GP referral
Conditions/pacemaker
Diabetes Diabetics can have other GP Referral
conditions, and can have a
reduction in sensation.
They are very often on
medication depending on
the severity, so a GP
referral will be needed
Cancer Clients need to be in Prevents/Restricts
remission for at least 6
months prior to
commencing a course of
MDM treatment as it
stimulates the blood flow
and lymphatic drainage
Undiagnosed lumps GP Referral needed GP referral needed
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 Grade 4 Acne If the skin is very congested prevents
with pustules and papules,
treatment would irritate the
skin and spread bacteria
Roaccutane This treatment causes
thinning of the skin. You
must wait for 6 months after
discontinuing Roaccutane
before you can proceed
with treatment.
Rosacea Cannot be treated with Prevents
MDM
Bacterial infections Such as Impetigo Prevent
Viral infections Such as shingles Prevents
Fungal infections Such as Ringwork Prevents

Auto-immune disease Used to describe a number

of disorders where the body
can attack its own cells and
tissues. These diseases
include
• • Addison’s disease
• • Celiac disease
• • Diabetes Type 1
• • Graves’ disease
• • Inflammatory bowel
disease
• • Multiple Sclerosis
• • Rheumatoid
arthritis
• • Vitiligo

Contra-indications

A contract- indication is a condition which makes carrying out the treatment inadvisable or
requires you to adapt your treatment.

Prevent or restrict?

The contra-indications that prevent a treatment being carried out include:

 Diabetes
 Pregnancy
 Pacemaker or other electronic device
 Cancer
 Undiagnosed lumps

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Minor Contraindications

Proceed with caution and avoid affected areas

 Eye infections: conjunctivitis, sty’s, cysts
 Skin disorders@ active acne, seborrhea dermatitis, cold sores, eczema, psoriasis
 Keloid scars
 Telangiectasia (broken capillaries)
 Raised moles, warts, skin tags
 Cuts, bruises and abrasions

Dealing with contra-indications

When completing the consultation form with your client, you might come across a contra-
indication.

As a beauty therapist you are not qualified to diagnose conditions. If you did so, you might
give the wrong information and cause unnecessary worry or alarm for your client.
Instead, you should refer the client to their GP for advice and treatment if required.

The possible contra-actions to treatment include:

 Erythema – dilation of the blood vessels which can make the skin appear red

Adverse reaction to a product

If you client reacts to a product with excessive redness, rash, irritation or swelling:

 Stop using the product immediately

 Remove the product from the skin
 Cool the area with a cold compress
 Record the reaction on the client’s record card and in the incident log book.

As a technician you cannot treat any condition and must never diagnose a condition. To
do this could lead to a whole host of problems and lead to a client suing you.

So, leave treating and diagnosing to the medical profession

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Client consultation

A microdermabrasion treatment usually begins with a consultation during which the

practitioner asks the client a series of questions about how they are feeling, medical
history and why they have requested this treatment.

This is an opportunity for the therapist to ensure that there are no reasons why it would not
be advisable for the client to have the treatment, ruling out any contraindications.

It is important that you keep fully detailed client records for every single client you have.

Client record cards/consultation forms should be completed on every visit the client makes
to you.

On the first visit, you will need to have a full consultation to ascertain if the client has any
problems, and following the consultation, when you have fully recorded the details, you
need to ask your client to sign the form to confirm that the details given are correct.

Following this, on each visit the clients makes to you, you should mark on the rear of the
form the date of the visit, what the treatment undertaken was, and ask the client to sign the
form to say that he/she is happy with the treatment.

It is essential that you keep these records because should there be a problem or complaint
after the treatment, this information is your first line of defense – not only with the client,
but also your insurance provider.

A sample form is attached for your information, but you could design your own form to suit
your requirements.

Case Studies – see range sheet

Provide microdermabrasion treatments with evidence of 5 treatments performed on
sperate clients, including the body treatment

5 clients, each with 5 separate treatments

Microdermabrasion you require the following

Treatment Treatment Treatment Treatment Body

one two three four treatment
Date
achieved
Signed

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