EXPERIMENT-3

ing
shop: Soldering and disordering of Resistor in PCB. Soldering and de-solacrg
Aim:-Soldering
af IC in PCB. Soldering and disordering of Capacitor in PCB.

cOMPONENTS REQUIRED:
1. Soldering Equipment (35-W Iron with Stand)
2. DE soldering pump(Suma) or DE soldering Wik
3. Solder wire
4. Wire Cutter
5. Solder Flux
6. And Electronie Components etc

THEORY:

low
Soldering is defined as "the joining of metals by a fusion of alloys, which have relatively
melting points". In other words, you use a metal that has a low melting point to adhere the surtaces
to be soldered together. Soldering is more like gluing with molten metal than anything elsc
Soldering is also a must have skill for all sorts of electrical and electronics work. It is also a skI
be explained later
that can only be developed with practice. The steps involved with soldering will
in the document.

Soldering Equipment
Soldering requires two main things: a soldering iron and solder. Soldering irons are the heat source
used melt solder. Irons of the 15W to 30W range are
to good for most electronics/printed circuit
or the
board work. Using anything higher in wattage and you risk damaging either the component
and
board. Note that you should not use so-called soldering guns. These are very high wattage
an electrical current through a wire. Because
of this, the
generatemost of their heat by passing
The choice of solder is
Wire carries a stray voltage that could damage circuits and components.
remember is to acid core solder. Acid core solder
also important. One of the things to never use
The
will corrode component leads, board traces and form conductive paths between components.
best solder for electronics work is a thin rosin coresolder

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 A Typical Weller Soldering Station

Soldering Procedure:
1. Surface Preparation
A clean surface is very inmportant if you want a strong, low resistive solder joint. Since you already
have a PCB design, you don't have to worry about your board being clean. But, make sure that
your component leads are clean
2. Component Placement
Bend the leads as necessary and insert the component through the proper holes on the board. To
hold the part in place while you are soldering, you may want to bend the leads on the bottom or

the board at a 45 degree angle, refer to figure 3 below.

Figure 3. Resistor ready to be soldered

3. Apply Heat
Apply a very small amount of solder to the tip of the iron. This helps conduct the heat to the
component and board, but it is NOT the solder that will make up the joint. Now you are ready to
actually heat the component and board. Lay the iron tip so that it rests against both the component
lead and the board. Normally, it takes one or two seconds to heat the component up enough to
solder, but larger components and larger soldering pads on the board can increase the time.

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 Figure 4. Applying heat

4. Apply Solder and Remove Heat

Touch the
Once the component lead and solder pad has heated up, you are ready to apply solder.
NOT the tip of the iron. If
tip of the strand of solder to the component lead and solder pad, but
everything is hot enough, the solder should flow freely around the lead and pad.
Don't move the joint for a few seconds to allow the solder to cool. If you do move the joint, you
will get what's called a "cold joint". A cold joint is a joint in which the solder does not make good
contact with the component lead or printed circuit board pad. Cold joints occur when the
solder pad moves before the solder is completely cooled. Cold joints make a
component lead or
really bad electrical connection and can prevent your circuit from working.
Cold joints can be recognized by a characteristic grainy, dull gray colour, and can be casily fixed.
This is done by first removing the old solder with a de soldering tool or simply by heating it up
and flicking it off with the iron. Once the old solder is off, you can resolder the joint, making sure
to keep it still as it cools. Refer to figure 5 for a picture of correctly applying solder.

Figure 5. Applying solder

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De-soldering

t
Atsome stage you will
probably need to de-solder a ioint to remove or re-position a wirc or
component. There are two
ways to remove the
solder:
1. with a de-soldering pump
This is also known as a 'solder sucker'. It is best to use one with an ESD
discharge) nozzle to protect somne ICs
(clectrostatic
which can be damaged by static
electricity
1. Set the pump by pushing the
spring-loaded plunger down until it locks.
2. Apply both the pump nozzle and
the tip of your
3. Wait a second or two for the solder soldering iron to the joint,
to melt
4. Then press the button on the
pump to release the plunger and suck the molten solder into
the tool.
5. if necessary to remove
Repeat as much solder
6. The pump will need
as
possible.
emptying occasionally by unscrewing the nozzle.
2. with solder remover braid
The copper braid acts as a wick for the molten solder which
away from the joint. readily flows onto the braid,

1. Apply
both the end of the
copper braid and the tip of your soldering iron to the
2. As the solder melts most of it will joint.
flow onto the braid, away from the
3. Remove the braid first, then the joint.
4. Cut off and discard the end of
soldering iron.
the braid coated with solder.

After removing most of the solder from the

joint(s) you may be able to remove the wire or
component lead straigh away (allow a few
seconds for it to cool). If the joint will not come
easily apply your soldering iron to melt the apart
the joint apart, taking care to avoid
remaining traces of solder at the same time as
pulling
burning yourself.
RESULTS AND DISCUSSION:

Precautions:

1. Never touch the element or tip of the soldering [Link] is very hot (about 400 C) and
will burn.
2. Hold wires to be
heated with tweezers or
clamps.
3. Always return the soldering iron to its stand when
not in use.
4. Turn unit off or
unplug it when not in use.

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