Submitted By : - Sangram Submitted To:- Mr.
Brijesh
Maurya . Mishra Sir
Final Yera Student Textile (Lecturer- Textile Chemistry)
Chhemistry
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
Our literary command falls short of adequate word to commensurate with
the feeling of indebtedness of almighty lord, for whose grace & blessing we
are able to complete yet another chapter of our life. Having the privilege
my deep sense of gratitude I feel highly elated to express my sincere thanks
to Mr. Sumit Arora Sir, who assigned me to my training, for their invaluable
guidance, constructive criticism and unceasing encouragement throughout
the training.
I seize my opportunity to express my indebtedness & moral obligation to
all the H.O.D’s. who gave their precious time and support. I extend my
sincere hanks to other faculty members and workers for their support and
valuable suggestions, recommendations & selfless helps.
I seize my opportunity to express my indebtedness & moral obligation to
Mr. Sumit Arora Sir, not only helping me for being my mentor. The only not
helped me to select topic but also gave precious and valuable time and
support.
I would like to extend my sincere thanks to Mr. Tarun Arora sir (HR-HEAD),
also I would like to thanks all the staff member of various department.
Especially to Mr. Mukesh Saxena Sir, Mr. [Link] Sir, Mr. Ravi Chauhan Sir
Mr. Sagar Gangwal Sir Mr. Manoj Kumar Upadhyay Sir, Mr. Narendra Pratap
Rathore Sir, Mr. Khurpi Pathak Sir, Mr. Upendra Maurya Sir, Mr. Dreem Sir,
Mr. Satish kadam Sir, Mr. Rohit Sir, Mr. Jashpreet Sir, [Link] all the other
whose name I missed to mention here. And also an special thanks to Mr.
Surjeet Sir .
At last I thank to my department head, placement in-charge and teachers
for giving me the opportunity to undergo training here
VARDHMAN- A PROFILE
BRIEF HISTORY: The industrial city of Ludhiana situated in the fertile Malwa regions of
Central Punjab is popularly known as “ Manchester of India “. Within this city is located the
head quarters of Vardhman Industries. Born in 1965 under LalaRatan Chand Oswal,
Vardhman Industries has grown into one of the largest textile houses in India. Today
Vardhman threads are the second largest producer of textile threads in India. In 1990
Vardhman diversified into weaving business. The grey weaving unit at Baddi has already
made a mark as a quality producer of Grey Poplin suiting and shirting in the domestic as
well as foreign market. This was followed by the entry into fabric processing with the
setting up of Auro Textiles unit in Baddi, which currently produces almost 1-lakh meters of
fabric daily.
In the year 1999 the Group has added another feather into its cap with setting up of
Vardhman acrylic, Bharuch Gujrat that is a joint venture in acrylic fiber production with
Marubeni and Exlan of Japan. Adherence to systems and a true dedication to quality have
resulted in obtaining the coveted ISO 9002/ ISO 14002 quality award, which is the first in
the textile industry and yet another laurel to its credit.
Building upon its strength in yarn manufacturing, Vardhman embarked upon a course of
natural progression and entered the processed fabric business.
Vardhman has a state –ofthe-art fabric process house with a production of 30 million
meters per annum. This was set up in the year 2000 with a technical collaboration of Tokai
Senko, Japan. The machinery largely is imported from Japan, Europe and U.S.A. Vardhman
is integrated backwards with 256 Hi-Tech air Jet and Rapier looms manufacturing 30
million meters of fabric per annum. Today Vardhman is one of the largest fully integrated
fabric suppliers in the country. A highly professional group of experienced personnel backs
this up in order to ensure right product and quality
Today the following industries are related to Vardhman group
Vardhman Spinning & General Mills Ltd. (Ludhiana)
Vardhman Spinning & General Mills Ltd. (Unit I)
Vardhman Spinning & General Mills Ltd. (Unit II)
Auro Spinning Mills, Baddi (Himachal Pradesh)
Auro Weaving Mills, Baddi (Himachal Pradesh)
Auro Dyeing Mills, Baddi (Himachal Pradesh)
Vardhman Spinning & General Mills (EOU), Baddi (Himachal
Pradesh)
Auro Textile Mills, Baddi (Himachal Pradesh)
Mahavir Spinning Mills Ltd. (Hoshiarpur Unit I)
Mahavir Spinning Mills Ltd. (Ludhiana Unit II)
Anant Spinning Mills (MalerKotla)
Anant Spinning Mills, Mandideep (Bhopal)
Vardhman Special Steels (Ludhiana)
Auro Mercerize Yarn Unit (Hoshirpur)
VardhmanPolytex Ltd. (Bathinda)
Arisht Spinning Mills, Baddi (Himachal Pradesh)
Vardhman Threads Ltd. Baddi, (Himachal Pradesh)
Vardhman Acrylic Ltd. Bharuch. (Gujarat)
V.M.T. Spinning Mills, Baddi (Himachal Pradesh)
SALIENT FEATURE OF GROUP CULTURE
Discipline
System driven management
Emphasis on training
Focus on customer and quality
Safety of employees
Constant efforts of improvement
Merit is honered
Delegation of authority
Cost of consciousness
GROUP ACHIEVEMENT
Largest spinning capacity in the country
First Indian Textile company to get ISO 9002
Largest manufacture exporter of cotton yarn from country
with exports of 292 crores in 1996-1997
Export to high quality conscious markets like Japan, Italy,
Germany, U>K etc
Winner of outstanding export award for five successive years
Largest consumer of acrylic fibre in India.
No. 2 sewing thresd manufacture in India after coats Viyella.
CONTEANTS
PILLING TESTING
• Method of measurement
• Mechanism of pill formation
• Pilling test standards difference
ICI PILLING TEST
• Procedure
• Assessment
• PROCESS DETAILS
• ICI Pilling sample after testing
MARTINDALE PILLING TESTS
• Working procedure
• Main parts of the machine
• Pilling grading scale photography
RANDOM TUMBLE TEST
• Random tumble pilling test
procedure
• Specification
• Assessment pilling
PILLING TESTING
What is Fabric pilling test :-
Pilling is a fabric surface characterized by little pills of entangled fiber
clinging to the cloth surface and giving the garment unsightly
appearance. The pills are formed during wear and washing by the
entanglement of loose fibers which protrude from the fabric surface.
Under the influence of the rubbing action these loose fibers develop
into small spherical bundles anchored to the fabric by a few
unbroken fibers.
Fabric Pilling Testing Standards Difference
As described in ISO 12945-1, “pills are formed when fibres on a
fabric surface “tease out” and become entangled during wear”.
The level of pilling is determined by the rate of a) fibre
entanglement leading to pill formation;
development of more surface fibre ;
fibre and pill wear-off. The rate of these process depend on the
fibre, yarn and fabric properties.
MECHANISM OF PILL FORMATION
Fuzz Formation-Migration of loose fibres to the yarn surface
↓
Pill Formation-Entanglement of fuzz to form pills
↓
Pill Wear Off-Breaking of Anchoring fibres causing the removal of
pills.
List of pilling tester and texting method:
Sl. No. Machine used Test method
1 ICI Pilling and snagging tester ISO
2 Martindale abrasion and pilling tester ISO
3 Random tumble pilling tester ISO
METHOD OF MEASUREMENT
1. ICI PILLNG BOX
2. RANDOM TUBILLING TEST
3. PILLING TEST BY MARTINDAL
PILLING TEST STANDARDS DIFFERENCE
For fabric pilling resistance test, it has various test standards which
require different pilling machine accordingly. For example, ISO
12945 has 3 different parts for pilling test.
– ISO 12945-1 Pilling Box
– ISO 12945-2 Martindale Pilling Tester
– ISO 12945-3 Random Tumble Pilling Tester
ICI PILLING BOX
INTRODUCTION: -
The TEXCARE Pilling Tester consists of two wooden cubic boxes with
inside surfaces lined with cork and outer surfaces laminated. These
boxes are rotated about their central axis at a specified speed with
the help of a motor and a gear box.
A pre-set digital counter stops the motor automatically after the
desired number of revolutions. The test specimens are firmly held
around rubber tubes. Four such tubes are placed in each box and
then rotated for desired numbers of revolutions after which they are
assessed visually against standard rating photographs and graded.
The apparatus is finished in off white stove enamel and bright chrome
/ zinc plating. The boxes are covered with a layer of black laminated
sheet.
Sixteen Rubber tubes, one insertion tool, and a template for marking
on the specimen are supplied as standard accessories.
Procedure
•For this test four specimens (125 x 125 mm) are cut from fabric.
(two of them is warp direction, two of them is weft direction)
• A seam allowance of 12 mm is marked on the back of each square
and a seam is sewn on the marked lines.
• All four specimens which are prepared on polyurethane tube are
placed in one pilling box.
• The usual number of revolutions used in the test is 18.000 which
takes 5 hours.
Assessment
• The specimens are viewed using oblique lighting in order to throw
the pills into relief.
• The scales are divided into five gredes and run from grade 5, no
pilling to grade 1, very severe pilling
PILLING GRADES:
• Grade 5 No or very weak formation of pills.
• Grade 4 Weak formations of pills.
• Grade 3 Moderate formations of pills.
• Grade 2 Obvious formations of pills.
• Grade 1 Severe formation of pills
ICI PILLING MACHNIE PROCESS DETAILS
1. Cut 4 sample of 125mm*125mm,two sample cut in warp
and two sample cut in weft direction mark the back side of
each sample.
2. Fold each sample face side in warp and sew exactly along
the line between the side of each sample.
3. Turn each specimen inside out to bring the face side out .
4. Place a tube cover the rod of the jig and pull the tube round
the roll. Then push a hollow metal cylinder with a tapered
end plug over the folded tube .
5. To prevent fraying cover the cut ends of specimen with self
adhesive PVC tape.
6. Place 4 mounted specimen in to each box and close the tide
securely .
7. Set the machine for 5 hours(18000 cycles) and then start the
machine .
8. Take out the specimen sample after 5 hours , Give the pilling
rating by comparing both side with standard photographs.
ICI PILLING SAMPLE AFTER TESTING
FRIST NO SAMPLE
• Article Number :-A140B631
• Finish Code :- V-5JAB
• Construction :2/40VIS*[Link]-
66*48-137-PLAIN 148
• GSM:-148
• Pilling Grade :-4
• Article Number :-150C489
• Finish Code :- CT-SF
• Construction :- 50COM*50COM-
124*90-179.3-DOBBY(TOP BEAM)-
140.80.001
• GSM:-120
• Pilling Grade :-4
THRID NO SAMPLE
• Article Number :-A120C325
• Finish Code :- ST-PDA
• Construction:-
20COM*20COM+[Link]
• GSM:-254
• Pilling Grade :-3
FOURTH NO SAMPLE
• Article Number :-JUTE-CTN
• Finish Code :- CT-SF
• Construction :- 60COM*120E-
96*46-162.6-PLAIN
• GSM:-136
• Pilling Grade :-4
FIVE NO SAMPLE
• Article Number :-A1600279
• Finish Code :-JM-XF
• Construction :- [Link]-
92*84-175.01-PLAIN
• GSM:-82
• Pilling Grade :-4
SIX NO SAMPLE
• Article Number :-14252
• Finish Code :- PC-SF
• Construction :- 42CVC*42CVC-
100*72-169.4-PLAIN
• GSM:-110
• Pilling Grade :-4
SECVEN NO SAMPLE
• Article Number :-16072
• Finish Code :- CT-SF
• Construction :- 60COM*120E-
96*46-162.6-PLAIN
• GSM:-136
• Pilling Grade :-4
EIGHT NO SAMPLE
• Article Number :-14015
• Finish Code :- CT-PF
• Construction :-
40COM*40COM-131*72-60-
PLAIN
• GSM:-134
• Pilling Grade :-5
NINE NO SAMPLE
• Article Number :-A240A717
• Finish Code :- V-5GABXF
• Construction :-
2/40VIS*[Link]-
66*48-137 PLAIN
• GSM:-148
• Pilling Grade :-4
MARTINDALE PILLING TESTS
Martindale Abrasion & Pilling Tester, to determine the abrasion and
pilling resistance of all kinds of textile structures. Samples are
rubbed against known abrasives at low pressures and in
continuously changing directions. The amount of abrasion or pilling
is compared against standard parameters.
The unique design of our Martindale abrasion pilling test machine
allows removal of individual sample holders for examination without
lifting the top motion plate. It provides individual counters and
parking function, interval time settable and a large touch-sc.
MARTINDALE PILLING M/C ,WORKING PROCESS PHOTOGRAPHS
Sample size :- 140mm (cuting whit help of GSM cuter )
Number of cycle :- 2000 and 5000.
WORKING PROCEDURE:
• At first cut the fabric into 2 pieces according to the measurement of
the instrument.
• Now place these samples in the instrument under a certain load as
supplied in the instrument.
• Now start the machine and observe the counter of pilling no.
• Stop the machine power after completing 50,000 cycles take the
sample .
• Now the sample pilling graded with help of pilling grading scale
photography.
MAIN PARTS OF THE MACHINE :
• Holder guide
• Motor on/off switch
• Weight
• Power on/off switch
• Traveller top plate
• Power indicator
• Form
• Electronic counter
• Fabric Disc
• Fabric cover lock
• Tightening holder
• Cranks (3)
• Sample Holde
ASSESSMENT PILLING WHIT HELP TOGRADING SCALE PHOTOGRAPHY
PILLING GRADES:
• Grade (4-5) No change .
• Grade (3-4) Slightly surface fuzzing and or partially formed pills.
• Grade (2-3) Moderate surface fuzzing and moderate pilling . Pills of
varying size and density covering the specimen surface.
• Grade (1-2) Distinct surface fuzzing and distinct pilling. Pills of
varying size and density covering a large proportion of the specimen
surface .
• Grade (1-0) Dense surface fuzzing and severe pilling. Pills of
varying size and density covering the whole specimen surface .
Martindale pilling m/c ,sample
• 2000 cycle pilling sample .
FRIST NO SAMPLE
• Article Number :-A120C325
• Finish Code :- ST-PDA
• Construction :- 20COM*20COM-
124*
• GSM:-120
• Pilling Grade :-3-4
SCEOND NO SAMLE
• Article Number :-A160A742
• Finish Code :-JM-XF
• Construction :- [Link]-
92*84-175.01-PLAIN
• GSM:-82
• Pilling Grade :-3-4
THRID NO SAMPLE
• Article Number :-A140B631
• Finish Code :- V-5JAB
• Construction
:2/40VIS*[Link]-
66*48-137-PLAIN 148
• GSM:-148
• Pilling Grade :-3-4
FOURTH NO SAMPLE
• Article Number :-14252
• Finish Code :- PC-SF
• Construction :-
42CVC*42CVC-100*72-
169.4-PLAIN
• GSM:-110
• Pilling Grade :-3-4
FIVE NO SAMPLE
• Article Number :-A240A717
• Finish Code :- V-5GABXF
• Construction :-
2/40VIS*[Link]-
66*48-137 PLAIN
• GSM:-148
• Pilling Grade :-3-4
SIX NO SAMPLE
• Article Number :-JUTE-
CTN
• Finish Code :- CT-SF
• Construction :-
60COM*120E-96*46-
162.6-PLAIN
• GSM:-136
• Pilling Grade :-3-4
SECVEN NO SAMPLE
• Article Number :-14015
• Finish Code :- CT-PF
• Construction :- 40COM*40COM-
131*72-60-PLAIN
• GSM:-134
• Pilling Grade :-4-5
EIGHT NO SAMPLE
• Article Number :-150C489
• Finish Code :- CT-SF
• Construction :-
50COM*50COM-124*90-
179.3-DOBBY(TOP BEAM)-
140.80.001
• GSM:-120
• Pilling Grade :-3-4
NINE NO SAMPLE
• Article Number :-16072
• Finish Code :- CT-SF
• Construction :- 60COM*120E-
96*46-162.6-PLAIN
• GSM:-136
• Pilling Grade :-3-4
Martindale pilling m/c ,sample
• 5000 cycle pilling sample
FRIST NO SAMPLE
• Article Number :-150C489
• Finish Code :- CT-SF
• Construction :- 50COM*50COM-
124*90-179.3-DOBBY(TOP BEAM)-
140.80.001
• GSM:-120
• Pilling Grade :- 2-3
SCEOND NO SAMLE
• Article Number :-A160A742
• Finish Code :-JM-XF
• Construction :- [Link]-
92*84-175.01-PLAIN
• GSM:-82
• Pilling Grade :-3-4
THRID NO SAMPLE
• Article Number :-14252
• Finish Code :- PC-SF
• Construction :-
42CVC*42CVC-100*72-
169.4-PLAIN
• GSM:-110
• Pilling Grade :-3-4
FOURTH NO SAMPLE
• Article Number :-A140B631
• Finish Code :- V-5JAB
• Construction:-
2/40VIS*[Link]-
66*48-137-PLAIN 148
• GSM:-148
• Pilling Grade :-3-4
FIVE NO SAMPLE
• Article Number :-
• Finish Code :-
• Construction :-
• Pilling Grade :-3-4
SIX NO SAMPLE
• Article Number :-A240A717
• Finish Code :- V-5GABXF
• Construction :-
2/40VIS*[Link]-
66*48-137 PLAIN
• GSM:-148
• Pilling Grade :-3-4
SECVEN NO SAMPLE
• Article Number :-JUTE-CTN
• Finish Code :- CT-SF
• Construction :-
60COM*120E-96*46-
162.6-PLAIN
• GSM:-136
• Pilling Grade :-3-4
EIGHT NO SAMPLE
• Article Number :-14015
• Finish Code :- CT-PF
• Construction :-
40COM*40COM-131*72-
60-PLAIN
• GSM:-134
• Pilling Grade :-4-5
NINE NO SAMPLE
• Article Number :-150C489
• Finish Code :- CT-SF
• Construction :- 50COM*50COM-124*90-179.3-
DOBBY(TOP BEAM)-140.80.001
• GSM:-120
• Pilling Grade :-3-4
RANDOM TUMBLE PILLING TEST
The random tumble pilling tester would tumble specimens randomly
inside of the lined cylindrical test chamber by with the help of
impeller and compressed air. After a certain period, check the textile
fabric samples pilling, fuzzing and matting visually.
RANDOM TUMBLE PILLING M/C
RANDOM TUMBLE PILLING TEST PROCEDURE
1. Place Specimen and a 25 mg of a 5 mm (0.2”) gray colored
cotton fiber into the test chamber.
2. Place the cover on the chamber and set the timer for a running
time of 30 minutes. (10 minute intervals for up to 30 minutes
may be more indicative for certain knits or soft-woven fabrics.)
3. Turn the motor switch to “on,” and push the “start” button, and
start the airflow.
4. During the run check each chamber at frequent intervals. (If the
specimen becomes wedged around the impeller without
tumbling or lies on the bottom or side of the chamber, shut off
the air, stop the machine, remove the face plate, and free the
specimen. Record on a data sheet any abnormal behavior or
hang ups of the specimen.
5. After each run, rake out each specimen and clean off excess
cotton fiber using the vacuum cleaner
SPECIFICATION
• Speed: 1200 rpm
• Sample size (diameter): 105x105mm
• Number of sample holding capacity: 16
• Air Pressure: 14~21Kpa（2~3psi）can be adjusted manually
• Time: 30 minutes
ASSESSMENT PILLING WHIT HELP TOGRADING SCALE PHOTOGRAPHY
Using suitable rating standards, and the apparatus for fabric
evaluation, subjectively rate the face of each specimen, looking
down on the specimen at a 45° angle and using the rating standard
and the following scale. When the appearance of a test specimen
falls between that of 2 rating standards, assign the half value .
• Grade 5 No Pilling.
• Grade 4 Slight pilling.
• Grade 3 Moderate pilling
• Grade 2 Severe pilling
• Grade 1 Very severe pilling
FACTORS AFFECTING ABRASION RESISTANCE
• 1. Fibre type:
• High elongation, elastic recovery, and work of rupture are
considered to be more important factors. (Nylon polymer) Blending
of nylon or polyester with wool or cotton improves abrasion
resistance.
2. Fibre properties:
• Longer fibres incorporated into fabric confer better abrasion
resistance, because they are harder to remove from yarn. For the
same reason filament yarns are more abrasion resistant than staple
yarns made from the same fibre. Increasing fibre diameter up to a
limit improves abrasion resistance. Above the limit the increasing
strains encountered in bending counteract any further advantage
and also a decrease in the number of fibres in the cross-section
lowers fibre cohesion.
3. Yarn twist:
• Optimum twist increases the abrasion resistance. At low twist,
fibres can come out and at high twist more abrasion due to stiffer
yarn.
4. Fabric structure:
• If one set of yarn is predominantly on the surface then this set will
wear most. Relative mobility of floats helps to absorb the stress.
PILLING TESTING REPORT
ARTICLE FINISH CODE FINISH CODE ICI PILLING TESTING MARDINDAL PILLING MARDINDAL PILLING
[Link] CONSTRUCTION
NUMBER K1 K4 K3 /18000 CYCLE TESTING /2000CYCLE TESTING/5000 CYCLE
40COM*40COM-131*72-60-
1 14015 7000072613 CT-PF PLAIN PILLING GRADE:-4 PILLING GRADE:-4 PILLING GRADE:- 4
50COM*50COM-124*90-179.3-
2 A150C489 5000055264 CT-SF DOBBY(TOP BEAM)-140.80.001 PILLING GRADE:-4 PILLING GRADE:-(2-3) PILLING GRADE:-(2)
2/40VIS*[Link]-66*48-
3 A240A717 5000038812 V-5GABX 137 PLAIN PILLING GRADE:-4 PILLING GRADE:-(3-4) PILLING GRADE:-(1-2)
[Link]*[Link]-
4 A140B631 5000055044 V-5JAB 90*-169. PLAIN PILLING GRADE:-4 PILLING GRADE:- 4 PILLING GRADE:- 4
60COM*120E-96*46-162.6-
5 JUTE-CTN 5000048564 CT-SF PLAIN PILLING GRADE:-4 PILLING GRADE:-(3-4) PILLING GRADE:- 3
[Link]-92*84-175.01-
6 A1600279 4000068134 JM-XF PILLING GRADE:-4 PILLING GRADE:- 4 PILLING GRADE:-(3-4)
PLAIN
20COM*20COM+[Link]
7 A120C325 6000011142 ST-PDA PILLING GRADE:-3 PILLING GRADE:- 2 PILLING GRADE:- (1-2)
42CVC*42CVC-100*72-169.4-
PLAIN
8 14252 8000082293 PC-SF PILLING GRADE:-4 PILLING GRADE:- 4 PILLING GRADE:-(2-3)
60COM*120E-96*46-162.6-
9 16072 5000070441 CT-SF PLAIN PILLING GRADE:- 4 PILLING GRADE:-(2-3) NA
CONCLUSION FOR PILLING TESTING RESULT
Conclusion to pilling testing for the different fabric count
number and finish shade.
• Martindale pilling testing is more harsh than ICI Pilling.
• Light shade fabric pilling grading bad, But dark shade
fabric pilling grading good.(example to Article -No
:16072,JUTE-CTN ).
• ICI pilling Box testing method result of all fabrics are
comparable
• Fabric with finer count is having Good pilling rating as
compared to fabric with coarser count .
Thanks & Regards
Sangram Maurya
[Link]
Hindalpur,Pilkhuwa,Hapur(Utt
Pradesh)245304