Overview of the Caribbean Islands
Overview of the Caribbean Islands
The Caribbean
The Land
The West Indian archipelago forms a massive breakwater 2,000 miles long consisting of
thousands of islands and reefs that protect the Caribbean Sea against the Atlantic Ocean. This
barrier provides the Caribbean its calm and clear waters.
This area is known by a variety of names. The earliest name, and the one most frequently
used, is West Indies. Christopher Columbus gave the region that name erroneously when he
arrived in 1492. He thought that he had circumnavigated the earth and that the islands were
off the coast of India.
Spain and France called the islands the Antilles, after the mythological Atlantic island of
Antilia. The larger islands (Cuba, Jamaica, Hispaniola, and Puerto Rico) came to be known
as the Greater Antilles, while the remaining smaller islands were called the Lesser Antilles.
Today the area is broken into four island chains: the Bahamas, the Greater Antilles, and the
eastern and southern islands of the Lesser Antilles. Together, these islands cover more than
91,000 square miles of land area.
The northernmost island chain is the Bahamas, which include 29 inhabited islands and
nearly 3,000 islets stretching southeastward from Florida. Most of them are flat islands formed
from coral and limestone.
The Greater Antilles is the largest and westernmost chain. It includes Cuba, Hispaniola,
Jamaica, and Puerto Rico. The four main islands comprise nine-tenths of the entire land
area of the West Indies. Cuba alone has almost half this area. The main island of Cuba
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H I S TO RY 107
covers 40,543 square miles. Much of the landmass of the Greater Antilles is formed by a
partially submerged mountain range, which forms the Sierra Maestras and Sierra de Nipe
on Cuba, the Blue Mountains on Jamaica, the Cordillera Central on Hispaniola, and the
mountainous core of Puerto Rico farther to the east. The western three-fourths of the island
is a vast limestone platform similar to the limestone platforms of Florida and Mexico’s Yucatán
Peninsula.
The third island chain includes the eastern islands of the Lesser Antilles, which curve
north from the coast of Venezuela toward Puerto Rico. The islands along this arc fall into two
distinct geographic groups. Some islands formed as a result of volcanic activity, while others
emerged from the ocean as low-lying coral islands. Saint Vincent, Saint Lucia, Martinique,
Dominica, the western half of Guadeloupe, Montserrat, Nevis, Saint Kitts, and the Virgin
Islands are mountainous with rims of coastal plain. There are many active volcanoes in the
West Indies, including Montagne Pelée on Martinique and Soufrière on Saint Vincent. The
Soufrière Hills volcano on Montserrat erupted during the mid-1990s, destroying the island’s
capital of Plymouth. The islands of Barbados, Antigua, Barbuda, Anguilla, and the eastern
half of Guadeloupe generally have low elevations and more level terrain.
The fourth island chain, the southern islands of the Lesser Antilles, follows the coast of
Venezuela, from Lake Maracaibo to the mouth of the Orinoco River. These islands are extreme
northeastern extensions of the Andes Mountains and have complex geologic structures. They
include Aruba, Bonaire, Curaçao, Margarita, and Trinidad and Tobago. One of the smallest
inhabited islands is Saba, part of the Netherlands Antilles. A volcanic cone, Saba towers 2,854
feet above the ocean. Its capital, the Bottom, is built at the bottom of the extinct crater—the
only patch of level land on the island. Many smaller uninhabited coral islets are found in the
region.
History
The English word Caribbean, its Spanish equivalent Caribe, and its French version Caraı̈be
comes from the name of an Indian tribe that, in pre-Columbian time, inhabited the northwest
portion of South America, Central America, and the southeast islands of the region now
known as the Caribbean Basin. The Carib people left their name behind as a symbol of the
region they inhabited. On land, they lived in small settlements, farmed and fished, and hunted
game with blowguns and bows and arrows and were noted for their ferocity. However the
most dominant culture was that of the Tainos or Arawack. These people practiced a highly
productive form of agriculture and had an advanced social and material culture.
The arrival of Christopher Columbus was the beginning of the end of the indigenous
people of the Caribbean and beginning of the European conquest and domination. The
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Caribbean became the most precious jewel in the crown of Spain. They began to settle
the Greater Antilles soon after Christopher Columbus landed in the Bahamas in 1492. For
the Arawak/Tainos, the Spanish conquest was disaster. Aside of the pressure exerted on
them through the destruction of social structures and the disruption of their food sup-
ply the Arawaks had to face European diseases for which they were not immunologically
prepared.
Spanish control of the region was not undisputed, and other European colonial powers
constantly challenged it. The British, French, and Dutch encouraged and at times even li-
censed their citizens to attack Spanish merchant ships, fleets, and ports. They harassed the
Spaniards with some success for nearly two hundred years, most intensively between the
mid-1500s and mid-1600s.
The history of the years of massive colonial prosperity of the West Indies, especially in
Jamaica (English rule) and St. Domingue (French rule, today Haiti) is centered around the
economics of sugarcane production. When the Arawak population disappeared, the lack of
manpower resulted in the introduction of African slaves. The flow of slaves to the West Indies
was at first a trickle but became a flood in the eighteenth century. At that time, an increase
of the demand for sugar in Europe triggered the astronomic growth of production by the
West Indian sugar plantations. According to some historians the estimated number of people
uprooted from Africa varies between sixty and one hundred million. Though many died during
the Middle Passage, many also survived. And, after nearly three hundred years of struggle, the
people of African descent became the inheritors of the lands of the Caribbean.
Politically the islands of the West Indies are made up of thirteen independent nations
and a number of colonial dependencies, territories, and possessions. The Republic of Cuba,
consisting of the island of Cuba and several nearby islands, is the largest West Indian nation.
Haiti and the Dominican Republic, two other independent nations, occupy Hispaniola, the
second largest island in the archipelago. Jamaica, Barbados, the Bahamas, Trinidad and To-
bago, Dominica, Grenada, the Federation of Saint Kitts and Nevis, Saint Lucia, Saint Vincent
and the Grenadines, and Antigua and Barbuda are the other sovereign nations.
Rule over nearly all the other West Indies islands is distributed among the United States,
France, the Netherlands, Venezuela, and the United Kingdom. Puerto Rico, the fourth largest
island of the archipelago, is a U.S. commonwealth and several of the Virgin Islands are United
States territories. The French West Indies includes Martinique, Guadeloupe, and a number
of smaller dependencies of Guadeloupe. Martinique and Guadeloupe and its dependencies
are overseas departments of France. The Dutch possessions consist of the Netherlands An-
tilles (Cura ç ao and Bonaire), Aruba, and smaller Lesser Antilles islands. Venezuela controls
about seventy Lesser Antilles islands, including Margarita Island. Dependencies of the United
Kingdom are Anguilla, the Cayman Islands, Montserrat, Turks and Caicos Islands, and some
of the Virgin Islands.
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The People
The roots of the vast majority of Caribbean island people can be traced to Europe, Africa, and
Asia. During the seventeenth century the English, Dutch, and French joined the Spanish in
settling and exploring the Caribbean islands. At first, the English and French met their needs
for labor by bringing Europeans to the islands as indentured servants, individuals who agreed
to work for a specific number of years in exchange for passage to the colonies, food, and
shelter. Eventually, all the colonizing countries imported slaves from Africa to provide labor.
The number of slaves increased dramatically after the sugar plantations were established in
the seventeenth century, making slavery the dominant economic institution on many islands.
The African people soon became the majority on most of the islands. Their culture
and customs influence much of the religious worship, artistic expression, rhythmic dancing,
singing, and even ways of thinking in the Caribbean. Spiritual practices such as Junkanoo
in the Bahamas, Santeria in Cuba, Voodun in Haiti, and Rastafari in Jamaica are African-
influenced movements that have Caribbean origin and a worldwide following. Reggae music
and jerk cooking are also Africa-inspired contributions to the world from the Caribbean.
After the abolition of slave trade in the British West Indies during the early nineteenth
century, Asian workers arrived in Cuba and Jamaica and indentured workers from India came
to the Lesser Antilles.
Today, an estimated 70 percent of the people of the region are of African descent or mulatto
(mixed African and European descent), 25 percent European descent, and 5 percent Asian
descent. The racial composition of individual islands, however, differs widely. Most of the
Caucasians live in Cuba, the Dominican Republic, and Puerto Rico. Most of the Asians live in
Trinidad. The inhabitants of the other islands and the third of Hispaniola occupied by Haiti
are overwhelmingly of African descent. Jamaica is typical of the older plantation islands, with
76 percent of its population of African descent, 15 percent mulatto, 1 percent of European
descent, and 8 percent of Chinese, Indian, or other heritage.
The Food
The islands originally inhabited by the Arawak and Carib Indian tribes had established a
varied combination of foodstuffs and cooking techniques. The Caribs were cannibalistic but
are credited by food historians to be the people who began ritually spicing their food with
chile peppers. The Arawaks, on the other hand, devised a method of slow-cooking their meat
by placing it over an open fire on a makeshift grate or grill made out of thin green sticks. They
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called this a barbacoa, which gave rise in both method and name to what is known today as a
barbecue.
After Christopher Columbus arrived in the area in 1492, other Europeans followed Spain
in colonizing the islands and brought with them their culinary trademarks. Some of the
ingredients the Spanish and Europeans introduced included not only sugarcane, but varieties
of coconut chickpeas, cilantro, eggplant, onions, garlic, oranges, limes, mangoes, rice, and
coffee.
The Caribbean’s close proximity to Mexico and South America encouraged trade between
the early settlers. Mexico traded papaya, avocado, chayote, and cocoa. Potatoes and passion
fruit came from South America. Later breadfruit was introduced by Polynesians and corn,
beans, and chile by Americans. Beginning in the early 1600s the slave trade brought foods
from West Africa to the islands. The Africans brought crops of okra, callaloo, and ackee.
Cuisine is similar from island to island, but each island has its specialties.
Typical Cuban foods include black beans, white rice, yellow rice, citrus marinades, garlic,
and fried sliced banana (plantain). Olive oil and garlic marinades are often used as sauces.
Popular spices include cumin, cayenne, and cilantro. Meat is often prepared roasted and in a
creola style marinade. Two things not often seen in Cuban food are cream and milk products
and cheeses in heavy sauces. These products, popular in Europe and North America, are
expensive to purchase and often difficult to store. Pork and chicken are relatively plentiful,
fresh and inexpensive. Ajiaco, a thick soup made with pork along with different kinds of edible
vegetable roots and stems, is the national dish of Cuba. The taste depends on the vegetables
and the seasonings chosen by the cook. Other typical Cuban dishes include moros y cristianos
(white rice and black beans), congrı́ (a combination of rice and red kidney beans), and picadillo
à la habanera (a mincemeat dish, Havana style).
Jamaica’s national dish is said to be ackee and saltfish, usually served at breakfast, but can
also be a main dish. Ackee is a fruit whose color and flavor when cooked are said to resemble
scrambled eggs. A “closed” ackee is unripe and poisonous and is only safe to consume when
it ripens and is thus “open.” Saltfish is fish (usually cod) that has been heavily immersed in
salt for preservation, drying, and curing purposes. Saltfish is usually soaked overnight in cold
water to remove most of the salt before eating. Jamaica’s saltfish (or codfish) fritters, called
Stamp and Go, an island form of fast food, are made from a batter of soaked, cooked, skinned,
and flaked saltfish, with scallions, chiles, and tomato, fried in coconut oil until golden brown.
The long lasting Oriental and Indian influences in Caribbean cooking are represented by
curries and rice. Curried goat is a favorite, usually reserved for special occasions. Jamaican jerk
is another signature dish of the island. It can be either a dry seasoning mixture that is rubbed
directly into the meat or it can be combined with water to create a marinade. Jerk recipes
have passed through generations but the basic ingredients involve allspice, hot chiles (scotch
bonnet), salt, and a mixture of up to thirty or more herbs and spices that blend to create
one of the hottest and spiciest foods known. The Blue Mountains of Jamaica lend their name
to the famous Blue Mountain Coffee, renowned for being smooth and full flavored. Coffee
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beans were first introduced to Jamaica in 1728 from the country of Martinique. The climatic
conditions of the island ensured that the seedlings flourished, which triggered the cultivation
of coffee bean crops in the region.
From Puerto Rico come adobo and sofrito—blends of herbs and spices that give many of the
native foods their distinctive taste and color. Adobo, made by crushing together peppercorns,
oregano, garlic, salt, olive oil, and lime juice or vinegar, is rubbed into meats before they are
roasted. Sofrito, a potpourri of onions, garlic, and peppers browned in either olive oil or lard
and colored with achiote (annatto seeds), imparts the bright yellow color to the island’s rice,
soups and stews. Soups include sopón de pollo con arroz (chicken soup with rice), which tastes
different across the island’s regions; sopón de pescado (fish soup), which is prepared with the
head and tail intact; and sopón de garbanzos con patas de cerdo (chickpea soup with pig’s feet),
which is made with pumpkin, chorizo (Spanish sausage), salt pork, chile peppers, cabbage,
potatoes, tomatoes, and fresh cilantro. The most traditional Puerto Rican dish is asopao, a
hearty gumbo made with either chicken or shellfish. One well-known and low-budget version
is asopao de gandules (pigeon peas). Another is asopao de pollo (chicken), which adds a whole
chicken flavored with oregano, garlic, and paprika to a rich gumbo of salt pork, cured ham,
green peppers, chile peppers, onions, cilantro, olives, tomatoes, chorizo, and pimientos. Stews,
which are usually cooked in heavy kettles called calderas, are a large part of the Puerto Rican
diet. A popular one is carne guisada puertorriqueña (Puerto Rican beef stew). The ingredients
that flavor the beef vary but might include green peppers, sweet chile peppers, onions, garlic,
cilantro, potatoes, pimento-stuffed olives, capers, and even seeded raisins. Pastelón de carne, or
meat pie filled with salt pork, ham, and spices, is a staple of many Puerto Rican dinners. Other
typical dishes include carne frita con cebolla (fried beefsteak with onions), ternera a la parmesana
(veal parmesan) and roast leg of pork, fresh ham, lamb, or veal, which are prepared Creole
style and flavored with adobo. Exotic fare, such as Cabrito en Fricasé (goat meat fricasse,) Carne
Mechada (larded pork or beef loin with chorizo sausage,) and Cuajito and Mollejas Guisadas
(stews popular during Christmas season) are also enjoyed by locals.
A festive island dish is lechón asado (barbecued pig). A recipe dating back to the Taino
Indians, it is traditional for picnics and outdoor parties. The pig is basted with jugo de naranja
agria (sour orange juice) and achiote coloring. Green plantains are peeled and roasted over
hot stones, then served as a side dish. The traditional dressing served with the pig is aji
-li-mojili, a sour garlic sauce consisting of garlic, whole black peppercorns, and sweet seeded
chile peppers, flavored further with vinegar, lime juice, salt, and olive oil. Chicken is a Puerto
Rican staple, arroz con pollo (chicken with rice) being the most common dish. Other preparations
include pollo al Jérez (chicken in sherry), pollo agridulce (sweet-and-sour chicken) and pollitos
asados a la parrilla (broiled chicken). Fish specialties include mojo isleño, fried fish in a typical
sauce of olives, olive oil, onions, pimientos, capers, tomato sauce, vinegar, garlic, and bay
leaves. Puerto Ricans often cook camarones en cerveza (shrimp in beer) and jueyes hervidos (boiled
crab). Rice and plantains are prepared in dozens of ways and accompany nearly every meal.
Rice (arroz) is simmered slowly with sofrito and generally served with habichuelas (beans) or
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gandules (pigeon peas). Another typical rice specialty is pegao, which is rice that is prepared so
that it sticks to the bottom of the pan and gets crispy. Plantains also are served in many forms.
Amarillos are ripe plantains fried with sugar to enhance their sweetness. Green plantains are
either mashed into discs and deep fried to make tostones or mashed into balls of mofongo and
mixed with pork or seafood and spices.
In St. Vincent the national dish is roasted breadfruit and jackfish. Seafood is abundant,
including lobster, crab, conch (pronounced conk), shrimp, whelk, and mahimahi. A favorite
delicacy is tri tri, a tiny fish seasoned with spices and curry powder and fried into cakes. Other
popular dishes include callaloo stew, souse (a soupy stew made with pigs feet), pumpkin soup,
roti, and buljol (salted fish, tomatoes, sweet peppers, and onions served with roasted breadfruit).
A favorite dessert, duckanoo, originally from Africa, is made with cornmeal, coconut, spices and
brown sugar. The ingredients are tied up in a banana leaf (hence its other name, Tie-a-Leaf ),
and slowly cooked in boiling water.
Native cooking in the Dominican Republic combines Spanish influences with local pro-
duce. Beef is expensive (Dominicans raise fine cattle, but mostly for export) and local favorites
are pork and goat meat. Breakfast typically calls for a serving of mangu, a mix of plantains,
cheese, and bacon. Mangu has been called “mashed potatoes” of the Dominican Republic. A
foundation of the native diet, ‘La Bandera Dominicana, or the Dominican flag meal, is eaten by
nearly everyone at lunchtime. The most important meal of the day, La Bandera consists of rice,
beans, meat, vegetables, and fried plantains. Another popular dish is Sancocho, a Spanish-style
stew usually served with rice. Ingredients include various roots, green plantains, avocado, and
typically chicken or beef, although it sometimes includes a combination of seven different
types of meat (Sancocho prieto). Goat meat, a staple in many Dominican homes, may also be
used in this recipe. It offers a unique addition to the character of any dish since these animals
graze on wild oregano. Locrio, or Dominican rice, varies. An adaptation of the Spanish paella,
locrio is made with achiote (a colored dye produced from the seeds of the achiote plant), since
saffron spice is unavailable. Casabe (a round flat cassava bread) and catibias (cassava flour fritters
filled with meat) are the only culinary legacy of the Taino Indians. Desserts here are very sweet,
made with sugar and condensed milk in various flavors (coconut, papaya, banana, pineapple,
soursop, ginger), prepared as flans, puddings, and creams. Tropical fruits are abundant and
are used in desserts throughout the year, but many different varieties are found depending on
the altitude (for example, cherries, plums and strawberries grow in the central regions).
Barbados is distinguished for its flying fish/coo-coo dinners. Sleek, silver-blue fish with fins
that resemble dragonfly wings, flying fish are able to propel themselves in the air at speeds
up to thirty miles an hour to escape predators. Coo-coo is a polenta-like porridge made from
yellow cornmeal, water, salt, pepper, butter, and okra. Other specialties include conkies, from
Ghana, which are steamed sweet or savory preparations with mixtures of cornmeal, coconut,
pumpkin, raisins, sweet potato, and spices, in preboiled banana leaf pieces. Eddo, sometimes
called coco, is a hairy root vegetable with the size and flavor of a potato that is used in soups.
Peas and rice, or pigeon peas are a mainstay of the diet. The peas are cooked with rice and
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flavored with coconut. The peas are also known as congo or gongo peas on other islands. Jug-jug
is a stew made from corned beef, pork, pigeon peas, and guinea corn. Lamb in Barbados is
from a breed of black-bellied sheep that look like goats.
Antigua’s national dish is fungi and pepperpot, a thick vegetable stew with salted meat.
Ducana (sweet potato dumpling) is served with saltfish and chop up (mashed eggplant, okra and
seasoning). Black pineapples from Antigua are famous throughout the East Caribbean for their
unique, extra-sweet flavor.
The signature dish of Curaçao is keshi yená, or “stuffed cheese.” This dish is traditionally
made with chicken, vegetables, seasonings, and raisins, which are stuffed into a scooped-out
Edam or Gouda cheese shell. The “top” of the cheese is replaced and the whole is baked for
at least an hour. In Colonial times, the Dutch masters would eat the cheese and “generously”
donate the shell to their workers. Having to make due with what they had, the poor people
of the island came up with this specialty. Two very popular dishes are funchi and tutu. Both
based on cornmeal; they are commonly served as side dishes or appetizers. Taken directly
from African cuisine, these two dishes are still cooked in the traditional manner. Funchi is
much like polenta, in that cornmeal is poured into boiling water seasoned with butter and salt.
It is stirred with a spoonlike utensil called a mealie or funchi stick. It is most often left mushy
and served in a mound, although sometimes it is allowed to stiffen and then shaped into
dumplings, much like hushpuppies. Some fancy eateries will shape the funchi into ramekins
or other molds. Tutu is like funchi but with the addition of mashed black-eyed peas and is
mixed with a lélé (a stick with three points, used like a whisk.) Bitterbal, another popular
Dutch-inspired dish, is sausage meat formed into balls, coated in bread crumbs and fried. It
is eaten for breakfast, lunch, and snacks.
Rotis in Trinidad are as common as hamburgers in the United States. This unofficial
national dish consists of a curry meal wrapped in thin pastry; its prototype was brought to
the Caribbean by Indian immigrants some decades ago. The little packets of food have turned
into a top seller for a quick snack.
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The Caribbean
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G L O S S A RY 115
Glossary
Ackee The fruit of a West African tree, named in honor of Captain Bligh, who introduced it
to Jamaica. The ackee fruit is bright red. When ripe it bursts open to reveal three large black
seeds and bright yellow flesh. It is popular as a breakfast food throughout Jamaica. Ackee is
poisonous if eaten before it is fully mature and because of its toxicity, it is subject to import
restrictions and may be hard to obtain in some countries. Never open an ackee pod; it will
open itself when it ceases to be deadly. The edible part is the aril, sometimes called Vegetable
Brains; it looks like a small brain or scrambled eggs, with a delicate flavor. It is best known in
the Jamaican dish saltfish and ackee.
Allspice, Pimienta Dark-brown berry, similar to peppercorns, that combines the flavors of
cinnamon, clove, and nutmeg.
Annatto This slightly musky-flavored reddish yellow spice, ground from the seeds of a flower-
ing tree, is native to the West Indies and the Latin tropics. Islanders store their annatto seeds
in oil, giving the oil a beautiful color. Saffron or turmeric can be substituted. The Spanish
name achiote is sometimes referred to as achote. Available in Latin American and some Oriental
markets.
Bay Rum The bay rum tree is related to the evergreen that produces allspice and the West
African tree that produces melgueta pepper. Used to flavor soups, stews, and, particularly,
blaff.
Beans, Peas Interchangeable terms for beans. Kidney beans in Jamaica are called peas. In
Trinidad pigeon peas are referred to as peas. The French islands use the term pois for kidney
beans. Cuba calls beans frijoles. Puerto Rico uses the term habichuelas, and in the Dominican
Republic both terms are used. Often combined with rice, used in soups and stews, or pulped
and made into fritters.
Bitter or Seville Orange Also called sour and bigarade orange. It is large, with a rough, reddish-
orange skin. The pulp is too acid to be eaten raw, but the juice is used in meat and poultry
dishes. The oranges are also used to make marmalade. A mixture of lime or lemon juice and
sweet orange juice can be used as a substitute.
Blaff A broth infused with whole Scotch bonnet peppers and bay rum leaves in which whole
or filleted fish is poached.
Boudin, Black Pudding Sausage that may include pig’s blood, thyme, and Scotch bonnet pep-
pers. Frequently served with souse, a pork dish that can include any part of the pig.
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Breadfruit Large green fruits, usually about 10 inches in diameter, with a potato-like flesh. It
was introduced to Jamaica from its native Tahiti in 1793 by Captain Bligh. Breadfruit is not
edible until cooked; when cooked the flesh is yellowish-white, like a dense potato. Breadfruit
is picked and eaten before it ripens and is typically served like squash: baked, grilled, fried,
boiled, or roasted after being stuffed with meat, or in place of any starch vegetable, rice, or
pasta. It makes an excellent soup.
Calabaza A squash, also called West Indian or green pumpkin. It comes in a variety of sizes
and shapes. The best substitutes are Hubbard or butternut squash.
Callaloo The principal ingredient in the most famous of all the island soups. The term applies
to the leaves of two distinct types of plant that are used interchangeably. The first are the
elephant-ear leaves of the taro plant. The other is Chinese spinach, a leafy vegetable typically
prepared as one would prepare turnip or collard greens.
Carambola, Star Fruit Tart or acidy-sweet star-shaped fruit used in desserts, as a garnish for
drinks, tossed into salads, or cooked together with seafood.
Cassareep The boiled down juice of grated cassava root, flavored with cinnamon, cloves,
and sugar. It is the essential ingredient in pepperpot, the Caribbean island stew. It may be
purchased bottled in West Indian markets.
Cassava This tuber, also known as manioc and yuca, is a rather large root vegetable, 6–12
inches length and 2–3 inches in diameter. Cassava has a tough brown skin with a very firm
white flesh. Tapioca and cassareep are both made from cassava. There are two varieties of
the plant: sweet and bitter. Sweet cassava is boiled and eaten as a starch vegetable. Bitter
cassava contains a poisonous acid that can be deadly and must be processed before it can be
eaten. This is done by boiling the root in water for at least 45 minutes; discard the water.
Alternatively, grate the cassava and place it in a muslin cloth, then squeeze out as much
of the acid as possible before cooking. Bitter cassava is used commercially but is not sold
unprocessed in some countries.
Chayote, Christophine, Cho-cho, Mirliton A small pear-shaped vegetable, light green or cream
colored, and often covered with a prickly skin. Bland, similar in texture to squash, and used
primarily in Island cuisine as a side dish or in gratins and soufflés. Like pawpaw (papaya), it is
also a meat tenderizer.
Cherimoya Pale-green fruit with white sweet flesh that has the texture of flan. Used for mousse
and fruit sauces, the fruit is best when fully ripe, well chilled and eaten with a spoon.
Chorizo Spanish sausage that combines pork, hot peppers, and garlic.
Coo-coo (or cou-cou) The Caribbean equivalent of polenta or grits. Once based on cassava or
manioc meal it is now made almost exclusively with cornmeal. Coo-coo can be baked, fried,
or rolled into little balls and poached in soups or stews.
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G L O S S A RY 117
Conch Also known as lambi or concha. These large mollusks from the gastropod family are up
to a foot long, with a heavy spiral shell with yellow that shades to pink inside. When preparing
conch soup, conch salad or conch fritters, the tough conch flesh must be tenderized by
pounding.
Crapaud Very large frogs, known as mountain chicken, found on the islands of Dominica and
Monserrat. Fried or stewed legs are considered a national delicacy.
Creole, Criolla Creole refers to the cooking of the French-speaking West Indies, as well as to
southern Louisiana and the U.S. Gulf states. Criolla refers to the cuisine of Spanish-speaking
islands. Both terms encompass a melding of ingredients and cooking methods from France,
Spain, Africa, the Caribbean, and the Americas.
Dhal Hindu name for legumes; in the Caribbean, it refers only to split peas or lentils.
Dasheen Also known a coco, taro, and tannia, dasheen is a starchy tuber usually served boiled
or cut up and used as a thickener in hearty soups. Considered by some to have a texture and
flavor superior to that of a Jerusalem artichoke or potato, but potatoes can often be used as a
substitute for dasheen in recipes. Dasheen is often called coco, but coco is actually a slightly
smaller relative of dasheen.
Escabeche The Spanish word for “pickled.” It usually refers to fresh fish (and sometimes
poultry) that is cooked in oil and vinegar, or cooked and then pickled in an oil and vinegar
marinade.
Guava, Guayaba Tropical fruit that has over one hundred species. It is pear-shaped, yellow to
green skinned, with creamy yellow, pink, or red granular flesh and rows of small hard seeds.
Ripe guava have a perfume like scent. Guava is used green or ripe in punches, syrups, jams,
chutneys, and ice creams.
Hearts of Palm Ivory-colored core of some varieties of palm trees. They are used fresh or
canned in salads and as a vegetable.
Hibiscus Also known as sorrel, rosell, or flor de Jamaica, this tropical flower is used for drinks,
jams, and sauces. The flower blooms in December, after which it is dried and used to make a
bright red drink that has a slightly tart taste and is the color of cranberry juice. It should not
be confused with the American hibiscus found in the garden.
Jack A fish family of over two hundred species, these colorful saltwater fish are also known
as yellowtail, greenback, burnfin, black, and amber jack. These delicately flavored fish tend to
be large, weighing a much as 150 pounds, and readily available in waters around the world.
Tuna and swordfish may be substituted.
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Lobster Caribbean rock lobster. Unlike the Maine variety, this lobster has no claws.
Malanga, Yautia A relative of dasheen or taro, this tuber is prevalent throughout the Caribbean.
Mamey Apple The large tropical fruit, native to the New World, yields edible pulp that is
tangerine in color. The flavor is similar to a peach.
Mango A native of India, this fruit is known as “the fruit of the tropics.” Green mangoes
are used in hot sauces and condiments, while ripe mangoes appear in desserts, candies, and
drinks.
Name This giant tuber is called by a variety of different names. The Spanish translation of the
word ñame is yam. The outer skin is brown and coarsely textured, while the inside is porous
and very moist. The ñame grows to enormous size and is considered to be the “king” of tubers.
Otaheite Apple This pear-shaped apple ranges from pink to ruby red in color. This fruit is
usually eaten fresh, but also poached in wine, or juiced and served as a beverage.
Papaya Also known as “pawpaw” in Jamaica. Green papaya is often used as an ingredient in
chutney or relishes and as a main dish when stuffed. When ripe, it is yellow or orange and
eaten as a melon, or served in fruit salad.
Passion Fruit, Maracudja, Granadilla Oval-shaped fruit that has a tough shell and a color range
from yellow-purple to eggplant to deep chocolate. The golden-yellow pulp is sweet and it
must be strained to remove the seeds. Used in juices, desserts, drinks, and sauces.
Picadillo Spicy Cuban hash, made of ground beef and cooked with olives and raisins.
Pickapeppa Sauce This sauce, manufactured in Jamaica at Shooters Hill near Mandeville, is a
secret combination of tamarind, onions, tomatoes, sugar, cane vinegar, mangoes, raisins, and
spices. Since 1921 the company has produced this savory sauce, which has won many awards
and is distributed throughout North America. The sauce is aged in oak barrels for a minimum
of one year.
Saltfish Saltfish is any fried, salted fish, but most often cod. With the increasing availability
of fresh fish all over Jamaica, some cooks are moving away from this preserved fish, which
originated in the days before refrigeration. Still, Jamaicans have a soft place in their hearts
for the taste of this salted cod (sold around the world in Italian, Spanish, and Portuguese
markets under some variant of the name bacalao). Ackee and saltfish is the preferred breakfast
of Jamaicans. When imported saltfish is unavailable, Jamaicans have been known to make
their own from fresh fish.
Sofrito A seasoning staple, there are many variations. Most contain pork, lard, green peppers,
tomatoes, onions, and coriander. Typically they are prepared in advance and stored under
refrigeration. The word comes from a Spanish verb that means “to fry lightly.”
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G L O S S A RY 119
Soursop, Corossol, Guanabana Elongated, spike-covered fruit, slightly tart and delicately fla-
vored. It is used mainly in drinks, punches, sherbets, and ice cream.
Stamp and Go, Accra or Baclaitos Spicy-hot fritters popular throughout the Caribbean. Meth-
ods, ingredients and names vary from island to island.
Star Apple The local fruit is the main ingredient in a popular holiday dish called matrimony,
a mix of star apple and oranges. It similar to an orange but is made up of clear segments. The
eight-pointed star that gives the name can be seen when the fruit is sliced.
Stinking Toe A pod that resembles a human toe, this fruit possesses a foul smelling rough
exterior. The sugary power inside is eaten, or used in custards or beverages.
Sugar Apple, Sweetsop The flesh of the sweetsop is actually black seeds surrounded by sweet
white pulp. The sweetsop is native to the tropical Americas.
Tamarind A large, decorative tree that produces brown pods containing a sweet and tangy
pulp used for flavoring curries, sauces, and even beverages.
Yam Similar in size and color to the potato, but nuttier in flavor, it is not to be confused with
the Southern sweet yam or sweet potato. Caribbean yams are served boiled, mashed, or baked.
Yautia A member of the taro root family, the yautı́a is the size of a potato, but more pear-
shaped. It has a brown fuzzy outer skin. The flesh is white and slimy and is custard-like when
cooked. It is one of the most natural thickeners, used to thicken soups, stews, and bean dishes.
There is also a purple yautı́a, also called mora.
Yuca Root vegetable similar in length and shape to a turnip, with scaly yam-like skin. Univer-
sally made into flour for breads and cakes, and used as a base for tapioca.
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120
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RECIPES 121
Buljol
Flaked Saltfish (Trinidad)
The name is from the French brule gueule, meaning “to burn your mouth.”
SERVES 4
PROCEDURE
1 Desalt the salt fish: cover with boiling water and allow to cool in the water. Drain. Remove
any skin, and bones. Shred the fish and cover again with boiling water, let cool. Drain
and press out all the water.
2 Combine all the other ingredients except the avocado and mix well.
3 Add fish and toss well, refrigerate for at least two hours.
4 Serve with sliced avocado.
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PROCEDURE
1 Trim ends from fresh yuca and peel remainder, removing all waxy brown skin and pinkish
layer underneath. Cut yuca into 3 inch thick pieces. Cover with salted water by 2 inches
and boil until soft, but firm and almost translucent. Drain. Carefully halve hot yuca pieces
lengthwise and remove thin woody cores. Mash until smooth.
2 Over medium heat render the bacon until crisp.
3 Add the onions and garlic to bacon and cook 2 to 3 minutes or until soft.
4 Add mashed yuca, oregano, cilantro, and eggs; mix well.
5 Season with adobo, salt and pepper to taste.
6 Chill for 1 hour or until firm.
7 Preheat deep fat fryer to 350◦ F (175◦ C)
8 Shape two tablespoons of the mixture into balls or footballs. Roll in flour, shake off excess
and fry until golden brown. Drain on paper towels.
9 Serve hot or warm with Cilantro Aioli Sauce.
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RECIPES 123
Adobo 1
YIELD: 2 OUNCES
PROCEDURE
Adobo 2
Au: Need
YIELD: 2 OUNCES
Measures
PROCEDURE
PROCEDURE
1
1 Combine garlic and 4
teaspoon salt, mash to a paste.
2 Combine garlic, mayonnaise, lime juice, and cilantro. Adjust seasoning.
3 Chill for 1 hour to blend flavors.
PROCEDURE
RECIPES 125
PROCEDURE
1 Preheat grill.
2 Combine lime juice and water and use to rinse chicken. Pat dry and rub with garlic.
3 Combine remaining ingredients in a blender, mortar or food processor. Process ingre-
dients to almost smooth and pour over chicken, marinate in refrigerator for at least 2
hours.
4 Remove chicken from marinade.
5 Grill, turning often, until fully cooked. Cut chicken into 8 to 12 pieces.
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Arroz Mamposteao
Rice and Beans (Puerto Rico) SERVES 4
PROCEDURE
1 Using a food processor, blender, or mortar and pestle, process all ingredients into a loose
puree paste. Add additional water if necessary.
Bean Stew
1 cup 6 ounces, 168 g Pink beans or red kidney beans (dried)
1 cups 6 ounces, 168 g Corned pork or smoked ham, 1 inch (2.4 cm) cubes
3 cups 24 ounces, 720 ml Water
PROCEDURE
RECIPES 127
1
3 tablespoons 2 ounce, 45 ml Green sofrito
1
4 cup 6 ounces, 180 ml Tomato sauce
1 cup 8 ounces, 240 ml Water
1 cup 6 ounces, 168 g West Indian pumpkin (calabaza) or Hubbard squash
2 teaspoons Adobo spice mix
PROCEDURE
1 Heat the oil over medium heat, sauté onion and garlic until soft but not brown, 2 to 3
minutes.
2 Add pepper and sofrito; cook 2 minutes.
3 Add tomato sauce; cook 2 minutes.
4 Add cooked beans and pork mixture, water, squash, and adobo spice mix. Cook, uncov-
ered, 15 to 20 minutes or until squash is cooked and sauce has thicken. Remove from
heat and reserve.
Mamposteao Rice
2 tablespoons 1 ounce, 30 ml Corn oil
1
4 cup 2 ounces, 56 g Chorizo, chopped
1
2 cup 2 ounces, 56 g Bacon, chopped fine
1 1
3 cup 2 ounces, 56 g Onion, 4 inch (.6 cm) dice
2 Garlic cloves, minced
1 tablespoon Cilantro, minced
2 tablespoons Green bell pepper, 1/8 inch (.3 cm) dice
2 tablespoons Red bell pepper, 1/8 inch (.3 cm) dice
1 cup 6 ounces, 180 ml Bean stew
2 cups 8 ounces, 224 g Cooked rice
PROCEDURE
1 Heat oil over medium heat; sauté chorizo and bacon for 2 to 3 minutes, until cooked.
2 Add onion and garlic, sauté for 3 minute or until soft.
3 Add cilantro and peppers sauté for 3 minutes or until soft.
4 Add bean stew; cook 2 minutes.
5 Add rice, stirring constantly; cook 4 minutes until the consistency of a wet risotto.
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Mojo de Amarilos
Ripe Plantain Chutney (Puerto Rico)
SERVES 4
Chef Tip When peeling plantains (plátanos), moisten your hands and rub with salt to prevent
the juices from sticking to your hands.
PROCEDURE
1 Heat oil over medium heat and sauté plantain until tender and brown.
2 Combine remaining ingredients except cilantro, salt, and pepper; simmer together for 5
to 6 minutes.
3 Add cilantro and correct seasoning. Serve warm to hot about 160◦ F (71◦ C)
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RECIPES 129
PROCEDURE
1 Bring water and salt to a boil. Add okras and simmer, covered for 10 minutes.
2 Add cornmeal in a slow, steady stream, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon.
3 Cook over medium heat until mixture is thick and smooth, stirring constantly, 5 minutes.
4 Remove from heat and let stand 3 to 5 minutes.
5 Place on serving dish and spread butter on top.
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Coco Quemado
Coconut Pudding (Cuba) SERVES 4
PROCEDURE
1 Cook the sugar and water to syrup at the thread stage. When sugar syrup reaches this
stage, a drop of boiling syrup forms a soft 2-inch thread when immersed in cold water.
On a candy thermometer, the thread stage is between 230 and 234◦ F (110– 112◦ C).
2 Add coconut, and then stir in egg yolks, cinnamon and sherry. Cook over low heat,
stirring constantly until mixture is thick.
3 Pour into serving dish and brown the top under a broiler or with a torch.
4 Serve warm or chilled.
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RECIPES 131
1 pound 16 ounces, 448 g Mackerel or shad fillets, or other oily fish, such as bluefish,
mullet or pompano
1
4 cup 2 ounces, 60 ml Fresh lime juice
1 21 cups 12 ounces, 360 ml Coconut milk
1
2 cup 2 ounces, 56 g Onion, minced
1
2, or to taste Scotch bonnet chile, seeded and minced
2 Garlic cloves, minced
1
1 cup 6 ounces, 168 g Tomato, peeled, seeded, 2 inch (.6 cm) dice
2 teaspoons 10 ml Apple-cider vinegar
1 teaspoon Fresh thyme leaves
To taste Salt and black pepper
PROCEDURE
PROCEDURE
1 Combine olive oil, vinegar, orange juice, and sugar in a blender until smooth. Season
with salt and pepper.
2 Lightly toss together the lettuce, pineapple, and red onions. Dress with oil and vinegar
mixture; adjust the amount used to taste.
3 Garnish individual salads with several avocado slices lightly seasoned with salt and pepper
and a squeeze of lime juice. Serve with lime wedges.
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133
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Pepperpot Soup
(Jamaica) SERVES 4
PROCEDURE
RECIPES 135
PROCEDURE
7 Add chicken pieces, capers, stock, and salt to taste. Bring to a boil. Lower heat to a
simmer; cover and cook for 20 minutes or until the liquid has been absorbed and the rice
and chicken are tender. Serve hot.
Annatto Oil
1 cup 8 ounces, 240 ml Vegetable oil
1
2 cup 2 ounces, 56 g Achiote seeds
PROCEDURE
Heat the oil over low heat, add seeds, and cook for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, until a
rich orange color. Cool, strain, and store, covered, in the refrigerator.
RECIPES 137
Camarones Sofrito
Shrimp in Green Sofrito (Dominican
Republic) SERVES 4
PROCEDURE
1 Heat butter over medium heat, add the onion and garlic, and cook 2 minutes. Add chile
and celery, cook 3 minutes, until celery is soft.
2 Add tomatoes, salt, pepper, sugar, lime juice, bay leaf, and parsley; simmer uncovered,
until sauce is well blended and slightly reduced, 10 to 15 minutes.
3 In a separate pan heat the sofrito and stir in the shrimp; cook until the shrimp lose their
translucency, about 3 minutes.
4 Serve shrimp on top of tomato sauce.
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RECIPES 139
Sofrito
1
2 cup 2 ounces, 56 g Green bell pepper, seeded, chopped
1
2 cup 3 ounces, 56 g Tomatoes, peeled, seeded, chopped
1
2 cup 2 ounces, 56 g Onion, chopped
2 Garlic cloves, chopped
2 tablespoon Fresh cilantro leaves, chopped
1 tablespoon Fresh parsley, chopped
1 21 tablespoon 3
4 ounce, 23 ml Annatto oil
2 ounces 56 g Salt pork, minced
2 ounces 56 g Lean Virginia ham, trimmed, minced
1 teaspoon Dried oregano, crushed
1 21 cup 9 ounces, 252 g Dried black beans, picked over and soaked
3
4 cup 6 ounces, 180 ml Sofrito
1 teaspoon Ground cumin
3 21 cups 28 ounces, 840 ml Chicken or beef stock
To taste Salt and pepper
Garnish
1
4 cup White onions, minced
PROCEDURE
1 Pound or process green bell peppers, tomatoes, onions, garlic, cilantro and parsley to a
paste.
2 Heat annatto oil and render the salt pork until crisp. Drain, reserve the oil and salt pork.
3 Return fat to medium-low heat, add the vegetable paste, and sauté 2 to 3 minutes, until
vegetables are cooked but not brown.
4 Add ham and cook 1 minute.
5 Drain and rinse beans. Add to sofrito along with the cumin, stock and seasoning. Stock
should cover beans by 1 to 2 inches (2.4 to 4.8 cm).
6 Bring to a boil, lower heat, cover and simmer for 1 12 to 2 hours, until beans are very
tender. Add additional stock if necessary.
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RECIPES 141
Fresh hearts of palm are available in Cryovac bags and will last up to two weeks in a refrigerator.
Canned hearts of palm may be substituted for fresh.
PROCEDURE
1 Combine puree, vinegar, and Dijon mustard. Gradually add olive oil, whisking continu-
ously. Correct seasoning.
PROCEDURE
1 Toss tomato wedges with 2 tablespoons of vinaigrette and let stand at least 30 minutes.
2 When ready to assemble salad, combine hearts of palm and red and green bell pepper;
toss with a little vinaigrette.
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3 Toss lettuce with a dressing and place on salad plate. Arrange 3 tomato wedges on each
plate. Top lettuce with hearts of palm mixture. Arrange a few sliced onions over salad and
sprinkle with queso fresco.
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RECIPES 143
1
1 tablespoon 2 ounce, 15 ml Lime juice
1 Lime, cut into quarters
1 tablespoon Coarse salt
1 21 pounds 24 ounces, 672 g Boneless lean lamb or goat, 1 21 inch (3.6 cm) cubes
2 1 ounce, 30 ml Vegetable oil
tablespoons
3
1 cup 4 ounces, 112 g Onion, 4 inch (.6 cm) dice
2 Garlic cloves, minced
2 teaspoons 10 ml Tarmarind pulp
1
1 cup 4 ounces, 112 g Green mango, peeled, 2 inch (1.2 cm) dice (optional)
1 tablespoon Curry powder
1
1 or To
2 Habanera pepper, seeded and minced
taste
1
1 cup 6 ounces, 168 g Tomatoes peeled, seeded, 2 inch (1.2 cm) dice
1 cup 8 ounces, 240 ml Vegetable or chicken stock
1
1 cup 6 ounces, 168 g Potatoes, peeled, 2 inch (1.2 cm) dice
1 cup 6 ounces, 168 g West Indian pumpkin (calabaza) or Hubbard squash,
peeled, 12 inch (1.2 cm) dice
1 1
2 cup 3 ounces, 84 g Chayote, peeled, 2 inch (1.2 cm) dice
1 tablespoon Fresh thyme, chopped
1 teaspoon Lime juice
To taste Salt and pepper
As needed White rice, cooked
As needed Fried ripe plantains (recipe follows)
PROCEDURE
1 Combine the 1 tablespoon lime juice, lime quarters, coarse, salt and meat with 1 cup of
water. Cover and allow to stand for 30 minutes. Drain and pat dry.
2 Heat oil over medium-high heat and brown the meat on all sides. Remove meat.
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3 Add onions; cook 3 to 4 minutes until golden brown. Add garlic, tamarind pulp, mango,
curry powder, and habanera pepper. Cook, stirring, for 3 to 4 minutes. Add tomatoes and
cook 2 minutes. Return meat to mixture; cook 2 to 3 minutes to make sure the meat is
coated with spice mixture. Add the stock.
4 Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer, cover, and cook 30 minutes.
5 Add potatoes, calabaza, and chayote; correct salt. Cover and simmer 30 minutes or until
meat and vegetables are tender. Stir in the 1 teaspoon lime juice and correct seasoning.
6 Serve hot with rice and fried ripe plantains.
Ripe plantain skins are quite black. If bananas are used as a substitute, use ripe but still firm
bananas and be sure the skins are yellow, not black.
PROCEDURE
RECIPES 145
Tamarind is one of the legacies brought to the Caribbean region by the indentured Indian
servants, who replaced the enslaved Africans.
PROCEDURE
1 Combine the tamarind paste and 1 pound (2 14 cup, 448 g) sugar on a worktable and knead
to together until the mixture is light in color and the majority of the sugar is absorbed.
2 Roll 1 tablespoon ( 21 ounce, 15 ml) of the mixture into a ball around one or two of the
tamarind seeds (if using). Proceed until all the paste has been used.
3 Spread the remaining sugar on the worktable and roll each ball in sugar until coated.
4 Store in an airtight container.
PROCEDURE
1 Mix together the walnuts, apricots, and water and spoon 1 teaspoon of the mixture into
each date. Do not overfill.
2 Serve at room temperature.
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PROCEDURE
1 Cut off about 1 inch (2.4 cm) from both ends of plantains. Make 2 lengthwise cuts at
opposite ends..
2 Cover with very hot water for 5 to 10 minutes to help loosen the peel. Drain.
3 Hold the plantain steady with one hand and use the other hand to slide the tip of the
knife under the skin and begin to pull it away, going from top to bottom.
4 Cut into diagonal slices 1 to 1 12 inch (2.4 to 4.8 cm) thick. Soak the slices in salted water
for 30 minutes. Drain and pat dry.
5 Heat 2 inches (4.8 cm) oil over medium heat to 350◦ F (176◦ C) and sauté the pieces until
tender, 3 to 4 minutes; do not let them get crusty on the outside. Drain on absorbent
paper.
6 While they are still warm, lay a sheet of parchment paper, waxed paper, or a clean towel
over the slices and flatten until half as thick.
7 When ready to serve, refry at 375◦ F (190◦ C) until golden. Drain on absorbent paper,
season, and serve.
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RECIPES 147
Roasted Breadfruit
(Barbados) SERVES 4
1 medium Breadfruit
PROCEDURE
Stewed Conch
(Cayman Islands) SERVES 4
PROCEDURE
1 Marinate conch in the lime juice for 30 minutes. Drain, rinse, and then tenderize the
conch meat by pounding it with a meat mallet. Cover with water, season with salt and
pepper, and simmer for 10 minutes. Drain and cut into 1- to 1 12 -inch (2.4 to 3.6 cm)
pieces.
2 In a separate pan, cook salt pork in water to cover for 20 minutes to remove the salt.
3 Combine conch, salt pork, and coconut milk over medium heat; bring to a boil, then
lower to a simmer.
4 Add plantain, yuca, yam, and sweet potato; cook 25 minutes. Add breadfruit, adjust
seasoning, and cook until everything is tender, about 20 minutes.
5 Add thyme and basil, stir, and adjust seasonings. Serve hot.