Chapter 29
Light Cured Gels
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• Like wraps and monomer liquid and
polymer powder nail enhancements,
light cured gels can also contain
monomer liquids, but they rely
mostly on a related form called an
oligomer.
• The term mono means one, and poly
means many. Oligo means few.
• An oligomer is a short chain of
monomer liquids that is often thick,
sticky, and gel-like and that is not long
enough to be considered a polymer.
• Oligomers are between solid and
liquid.
UV
re re
• Urethane acrylate and urethane e o
f osu
methacrylate are the main
B xp
E
ingredients used alone or in
combination with urethane
acrylates to create light cured gel
nail enhancements.
• A chemical called a photoinitiator
initiates the polymerization
reaction. Oligomer Polymer Photo initiator
• Light cured gel resins react when
exposed to the UV or LED light
source that is recommended for
the gel. U V
ter ure
• It takes the combination of the Af pos
resin, photoinitiator, and the Ex
proper curing bulb to cause the
gel to cure.
Light Cured Gels
• The different light cured gels can be
described as thin-viscosity gels, medium-
viscosity gels, thick viscosity gels, and
building or sculpting gels.
• Viscosity is the measurement of the
thickness or thinness of a liquid and that
viscosity affects how the fluid flows.
• The one-color method is the method
whereby one color of UV or LED gel is applied
over the entire surface of the nail.
• The two-color method is a method whereby
two colors of resin are used to overlay the
nail; pink and white are usually used.
Types Of Light Cured Gels
• Bonding Gels- are used to increase adhesion to the
natural nail plate, similar to a monomer liquid and
polymer powder primer.
• The increased adhesion decreases the tendency for
enhancements to separate from the natural nail.
• When applying primer or bonding gel, insert the brush
into the nail primer or bonding gel, wipe off any excess
from the brush, and using a slightly damp brush,
ensure that the nail plate is completely covered per
the manufacturer’s recommendations.
Types Of Light Cured Gels
• Building Gels- Include any thick-viscosity resin
that allows the cosmetologist to build and arch
and curve into the fingernail.
• Some light cured building gels have fiberglass
strands compounded into the gel during the
manufacturing process.
• These gels typically have hardness and
durability properties that closely resemble
monomer liquid and polymer powder systems.
• If the client has flat fingernails, more building
will need to be done to create an arch and
curve.
Types Of Light Cured Gels
• Self-Leveling Gels- are thinner in consistency
than building gels, allowing them to settle
and level during application.
• These gels are used to enhance the thickness
of the overlay while providing a smoother
surface.
• If the client has fingernails that have an arch
and curve, then self-leveling gel may be the
best option.
Types Of Light Cured Gels
• Pigmented Gels-
can be building gels
or self-leveling gels
that include color
pigment.
• Opacity is the
amount of colored
pigment
concentration is a
gel, making it more
or less difficult to
see through.
Types Of Light Cured Gels
• Gel Polish- is a very thin
viscosity gel that is
usually pigmented and
packaged in a pot or a
polish bottle; it is used
as an alternative to
traditional nail lacquers.
• Light cured gel polish
does not dry the same
way as nail lacquers;
they cure in a UV or LED
lamp. They will smudge
if the client hits his or
her hand while the nail
lacquer is drying.
• Glossing Gel- also known as
sealing gel, finishing gel, or
shine gel, is used over the
finished and filed gel application
to create a high shine, in the
same way a top coat would.
• Inhibition Layer- is a tacky
surface left on the nail after a
UV or LED gel has cured.
• Traditional light cured gels do
not discolor after prolonged
exposure to UV radiation, while
tack-free gloss gels often
discolor
Supplies
• Light Curing Gel Lamp- either UV
or LED light is needed to cure gel
enhancements.
• Application Brush- choose brushes
with small, flat (or oval) bristles to
hold and spread the light cured
gels.
• Gel Primer or Bonding Gel- are
designed to improve adhesion of
UV or LED gels to the natural nail
plate.
• Light Cured Gel
• Nail Forms- clear plastic forms are
recommended.
• Nail Tips
Supplies continued…
• Nail Adhesive
• Nail Dehydrator
• Abrasive Files and Buffers- Medium to fine abrasive buffers( 180-240
grit) are for natural nail preparation and for smoothing the surface.
• A Cleansing Solution- these can be used to cleanse the natural nail as
well as to remove the sticky inhibition layer.
• Lint-Free Cleansing Wipes- used to cleanse the nail surface.
Light Cured Bulbs and Lamps
• A UV bulb is a special bulb that emits UV radiation to cure UV gel nail
enhancements. There are a number of bulbs that are used to cure light
cure gels; 4-, 6-, 7-, 8-, and 9- watt bulbs. The most common UV bulb is
a 9-watt bulb.
• A UV Lamp is a specialized electronic device that powers and controls UV
bulbs to cure nail enhancements.
• A LED lamp is the electronic device that houses the LED bulbs. Most LED
lamps cure gel about four times faster than UV lamps.
• If a unit has four bulbs in it and each bulb is 9 watts, then the lamp is
called a 36-watt lamp.
Gel Maintenance
Light cured gel enhancements must be maintained regularly, depending
on how fast the clients nail grow.
Maintenance service every two weeks is customary for this service.
Storing Light Cured Gels
• When storing light cured gels, ensure the
lids are on tight and the containers are
upright to avoid leakage.
• Since light cured gels are light sensitive,
meaning light can sure the product, gels
should be stored in a dark, cool place to
prolong the life of a product.
• Do not leave your open container of gel
near a window or a UV or LED lamp. If the
gel is exposed to these sources of light, it
will cure and become polymerized in the
container.
When to Use Light Cured Gels
• If your guest wants polish that will
last… If the polish is meant to remain
on the fingernail for two weeks, the
best choice is gel polish.
• If your client returned to the salon
often with broken enhancements,
then a gel that uses fiberglass may
be best.
• If a client is in search of manicure
with long-lasting polish, a soak-off
gel polish will be a great option.
Light Cured Gel Removal
• Hard UV and LED Gels- also known as traditional gels, cannot be
removed with a solvent, such as acetone. These traditional gels,
including colored gels, must be filed off the natural nail to be
removed.
Light Cured Gel Removal
• Soft UV and LED Gels- also known as soakable gels, including gel
polishes, are removed by soaking in acetone for approx. 5 to 15
minutes or product remover to soften them, allowing the
cosmetologist to easily scrape off the loosened gel polish with a
wooden stick.
