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Understanding Yarn Count Systems

The document discusses yarn count and different systems used to express yarn count. It describes indirect, direct and universal (tex) systems. Under indirect systems, count is the number of units of length per unit of weight. Direct systems express count as number of units of weight per unit length. Tex system expresses fineness in grams per 1000 meters. It provides formulas to convert between different count systems and discusses the relationship between yarn count and diameter. Finally, it lists instruments used to determine yarn count such as analytic balance and quadrant balance.

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Touhidul Hassan
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0% found this document useful (0 votes)
162 views7 pages

Understanding Yarn Count Systems

The document discusses yarn count and different systems used to express yarn count. It describes indirect, direct and universal (tex) systems. Under indirect systems, count is the number of units of length per unit of weight. Direct systems express count as number of units of weight per unit length. Tex system expresses fineness in grams per 1000 meters. It provides formulas to convert between different count systems and discusses the relationship between yarn count and diameter. Finally, it lists instruments used to determine yarn count such as analytic balance and quadrant balance.

Uploaded by

Touhidul Hassan
Copyright
© All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd

Department of Textile Engineering

Textile Testing & Quality Control-1

Prepared by- S. M. Masum Alam

YARN COUNT
What is Count?
The count of yarn is numerical expressions which define its fineness. It is also called as yarn number or linear
density. According to the definition given by the textile Institute, “count is a number indicating the mass per unit
length or length per unit mass of yarn”.

What are the Systems of yarn numbering?

Several systems and units are used for expressing the yarn number, depending on the material used for preparing
the yarn.

1. Indirect system,
2. Direct system and
3. Universal system.
Indirect system:
In this system the count is the number of units of length per unit of weight of yarn. In this case, higher the count,
finer is the yarn. This system is generally used for cotton, woolen, worsted, linen etc.

Direct System
In this system, the count of the yarn is the number of units of weights per unit length of yarn. This system is used for
jute, silk and synthetic fibres etc.
Universal system:
Tex system of yarn numbering is called as universal system. This is direct system of yarn numbering and introduce
by international Standards organization (ISO).
Tex system can be used from fibre to yarn stage. The fineness of fibre can be expressed in terms of millitex,

Units of length and weight in counting system:


Indirect System:

Name of the System Weight Unit Length Unit


Cotton – English 1 lb Hank of 840 yards,
Cotton- French ½ kg Hank of 1000 metre
Cotton- Metric 1 kg Hank of 1000 metre
Spun silk 1 lb Hank of 840 yards
Linen 1 lb Leas of 300 yards,
Worsted 1 lb Hank of 560 yards,

Direct System:
Jute, Hemp 1 lb 14400 yards,
Tex 1 Gram 1000 Metre

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Department of Textile Engineering

Textile Testing & Quality Control-1

Prepared by- S. M. Masum Alam

Denier 1 Gram 9000 metre

Count Conversation Formula:

System English French Metric Worsted Denier Tex


Count Count Count

English 1 Ne X 0.84 Ne X 1.69 Nex1.5 5315/Ne 590.5/Ne


Count
French Nfx1.18 1 Nfx2 Nfx1.17 4500/Nf 500/Nf
Count
Metric Nmx0.59 Nmx0.5 1 Nmx0.88 9000/Nm 1000/Nm
Count
Worsted Wx0.6667 Wx0.5645 Wx1.129 1 7972/W 885.8/W
Denier 5315/D 4500/D 9000/D 7972/D 1 D/9
Tex 590.5/T 500/T 1000/T 885.8/T Tx9 1

English Cotton Count (Ne): This is also referred as British count of English count. This is defined as the number of
hanks of 840 yards present in 1 lb of the yarn.
Length in hanks of 840 yds
Ie. Count Ne =
Weight in lbs
Example: A lea (120 yds) of cotton yarn weights 40 grains. Calculate its count.

Solution: Length of one lea = 120 yds,


Hank = 120/ 840,

Weight of the lea = 40 grains,


Lb = 40/7000,

Therefore count Ne = 120/840


40/7000
= 25s
Or, For Indirect system count calculation formula is –
Length Weight Unit
Count = X
Length Unit Weight

French Count (Nf): This is defined as the number of 1000 Metres of yarn present in ½ kg of yarn,

Length In 1000 Metre


Ie. French Count (NF) =
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Department of Textile Engineering

Textile Testing & Quality Control-1

Prepared by- S. M. Masum Alam

Weight in ½ Kg

Example: Calculate the count of 1000 M of Cotton yarn in French System, if it weights 40 grams.
Solution:

Metric Count: This is defined as the number of 1000 metres of yarn present in 1 kg of yarn is known as Metric Count.
Length in 1000 M or 1Km
i.e. Metric Count (Nm) =
Weight in KG

Example: If 75 Km of yarn weight 2.5 kg, what is its count in metric system?

Solution:

Tex: It is defined as the weight of yarn in grams present in 1000 metre or 1 km length is known as tex.
Weight in gram
i.e. Tex =
Length in 1 km

Example: If the weight of 400 metre of yarn is 6 grams, calculate its count in Tex System.

Solution:

Denier: It is defined as the weight of yarn in grams present in 9000 metre or 9 km length is known as Denier.

Weight in Grams
Denier (D) =
Length in 9 km

Example: If a Skein of 100 m of polyester yarn weights 0.84 grams, what is its Denier?

Solution:
Resultant Count or Count Calculation of double yarn:

Resultant count =

Example: If 20s & 20s count yarn twist together, calculate the resultant count?
Direct System:
Resultant Count =

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Department of Textile Engineering

Textile Testing & Quality Control-1

Prepared by- S. M. Masum Alam

Length in Hanks
Average Count =
Weight in lb

Example: If ring frame spinning mill produced 20s & 40s yarn, calculate the average count of mentioned yarn?

Solution:

Calculate the lowest Common Multiple of 20 & 40 is = 40,

Weight of 40 hanks of 20s is = 40/20 = 2 lbs,


Weight of 40 Hanks of 40s is = 40/40 = 1 lb.

Total hanks = 40+40 = 80 hanks,


Total weight = 2+1 = 3 lbs,

Average Count = 80/3 = 26.67s

Relation between Yarn count & its diameter:

By experiment, for cotton yarn of the apparent specific volume is 1.1 was obtained.
Let the yarn have a count of N Tex.
If the yarn count is N Tex so that we can say the weight of 1000 M yarn is N gram,

Assuming that specific volume is 1.1 cm3 of yarn weight is 1 gram.


The length of 1 gram yarn = 1000/ N Metre,
That is 1000x100/ N cm,
Now we can say, 1.1 cm3 yarn length is = 1000x100 / N C.M or 105 / Ntex.

We know that, Volume = Cross section x Length,


i.e. 1.1 = πd²/4 X 10/Ntex, where d is diameter in centimeters.

Therefore,
d² = 4x1.1xN / πX10
And therefore,
d = √ (4.4/ πX10) X √N,
= 0.375/100 √N (c.m)
Converting centimeter to inch and tex to cotton count,
d (inch) = 0.375/100 X √(590.5/cotton count) X 1/ 2.54,

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Department of Textile Engineering

Textile Testing & Quality Control-1

Prepared by- S. M. Masum Alam

= 3.6/ 100 √cotton count,(inch)


To round figure: d = 1/ 28√ (cotton count) (inch).

Instruments used for count determination:

The following instruments are generally used to determine the count of the yarn the wrap reel. The wrap reel is used
to prepare the sample of length 120 yards-

1. Analytic Balance,
2. Knowles Balance,
3. Quandrant Balance,
4. Beesley Balance,
5. Stubb yarn Balance.

1. Analytic Balance: In the mills, the leas of yarn are wrapped using the wrap reel and their weight are found
out using the analytical balance,

Count Ne = Length x Weight Unit


Length unit weight

2. Quadrant Balance:
Principle: If the sample is available with length less than 120 yards, then Quadrant Balance can be used to
determine its count.

Description: This a direct reading yarn count balance and it consists of a quadrant scale fixed to a pillar as
shown fig:
At the top of the pointer is pivoted so that it moves over the face of the quadrant scale.

A cross beam is also pivoted in the same pivot of pointer which has a sample hook at its one end and counter weight
in other end,

The counter weight determines the capacity of the instrument,

Addition of any weight to the sample hook makes the pointer to move in front of the scale,

The counter scale is divided into three scale, The top scale cab be used to find the weight per square yard of sample
in ounce,
The middle scale can be used the count of length 8 yards and Third scale find the count of yarn of length 40 yards,

There is a small adjusting screw on the top of the pointer and the beam pivot; also it has leveling screw provided at
the base of the instrument,
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Department of Textile Engineering

Textile Testing & Quality Control-1

Prepared by- S. M. Masum Alam

To operate the instrument, it is calibrated after leveling with the base screw,

A counter weight marked 40s is used for calibration, For this the counter weight is suspended from the sample hook,
if the balance is level the pointer reads 40s on the 40 yards scale, if it does not read 40s the pivot of the printer is
adjusted until it reads 40s on the 40 yards scale,

If the sample of length 8 yards is used, its count can be noted on 8 yards scale.

Beesley Balance:

Principle: Beesley Balance working on the principle of fixed weight and fixed length system.
It is used for assorting the count of warp and weft yarn from a small sample of fabric.

Description: it consists of a pillar A which carries beam B, fulcrum at knife edge at the point G,

At one end the cross beam is a hook E upon which the yarn to be tested can be placed, the other end of the tappers to
a point C,

When the beam is balanced, the pointers will datum line or the arrow mark on the beam, here also used one base
leveling screw,

The cross beam has small notch at the pointer D to take the counter weight.

A template is also supplied with the instrument and it can be used for measuring- Full cotton, ½ cotton, sample of
woolen and worsted yarn,

Example: for full cotton the larger rider is placed and for ½ cotton small rider is placed, then it hung in the sample
hook,

Result: in this stage fabric are taken out and counted which gives directly the count of yarn, if there are 30 threads in
the sample hook at the balance condition, then the count of the yarn is 30s.

6
Department of Textile Engineering

Textile Testing & Quality Control-1

Prepared by- S. M. Masum Alam

Common questions

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The mathematical concept used is the finding of the Lowest Common Multiple (LCM) to standardize lengths for weight calculations. For 20s and 40s yarn counts, the LCM is 40, implying 40 hanks of each count are considered to determine their weights. The significance lies in its ability to unify various yarn counts into a comparable format, facilitating accurate calculation of an average yarn count, which is essential for quality control and inventory management in textiles .

To calculate the average count of yarn when different counts are produced, the weights of hanks are calculated for each yarn type based on their lengths and counts. These weights are then summed, and the total length of hanks is divided by this total weight. This process involves finding the lowest common multiple of the yarn counts to standardize hank lengths. For example, if a mill produces 20s and 40s yarn, the lowest common multiple is 40. The weight for 40 hanks of 20s is 2 lbs and for 40 hanks of 40s is 1 lb, resulting in a total weight of 3 lbs. The average count is then 80 hanks / 3 lbs = 26.67s . This calculation helps in understanding the effectiveness and efficiency of yarn production in maintaining quality and desired characteristics of yarns produced.

Yarn count methods differ fundamentally in their units, necessitating specific formulae for conversion between numbering systems. For the English Count, the conversion involves the formula 590.5/Ne for Denier and 5315/Ne for Tex . For converting French Count, the formula is 500/Nf for Tex and 4500/Nf for Denier . Metric Count conversion uses 1000/Nm for Tex and 9000/Nm for Denier . These conversions reflect how each system quantifies linear density in terms of weight per length or length per weight, necessitating calculations that adjust unit scales accordingly, based on the directness of the yarn system involved.

Converting Tex to Denier involves reconciling differences in their definitions, where Tex is grams per kilometer and Denier is grams per 9000 meters . The conversion formula Tx9 shows how one Tex corresponds to nine Denier, reflecting the factor of nine difference in their base length units. Challenges arise due to the need to frequently convert multiple fabric types that use one system naturally over the other. This conversion is crucial in textile production for ensuring consistent fabric quality and specifications, especially within global operations where suppliers and consumers may use different systems.

Yarn count defines yarn fineness, impacting the texture, strength, and end-use properties of fabrics. Accurate determination influences manufacturing by setting parameters for machinery calibration and gauging yarns' suitability for specific textile products. It also affects quality control, as discrepancies in expected versus actual counts can signal issues like filament breaks or variations in material feed. This precision requirement is pivotal since yarn count consistency dictates the uniformity and performance of final textile products, tying directly into both consumer satisfaction and costly manufacturing redundancies .

In the French system, yarn count is expressed as the number of units of 1000 meters of yarn per ½ kilogram of weight. Thus, for a 1000m length weighing 40 grams, the conversion to the French count, given that 1 kilogram equals 1000 grams and ½ kg is 500 grams, means dividing 500 by the 40 grams which gives a count of 12.5 Nf . Practically, this system is useful in industries where precision in metric units is preferred, such as in European textile production, facilitating easier integration into metric-based manufacturing processes.

Specific volume is crucial in determining the relationship between yarn count and diameter because it provides a measure of the volume occupied by a unit weight of yarn, thereby affecting its cross-sectional area. For cotton yarn, assuming a specific volume of 1.1 cm³ per gram, the length of 1 gram of yarn is 1000/N meters, which translates into a formula for diameter as d = √(4.4/πX10) x √N cm. Converting to inches and adjusting for cotton count the formula becomes d = 1/28√(cotton count) inches . This calculation is essential for understanding how changes in yarn count affect the yarn's thickness and handling properties.

The Beesley Balance is significant in yarn count determination because it provides a simple, fixed-weight and fixed-length method for assessing the count of warp and weft yarn from fabric samples. It works by balancing a cross beam with the yarn at one end and a pointer at the other. The beam's balance indicates the yarn's count directly based on precisely measured samples. A template is used to measure various fabrics, and the number of threads at balance condition directly gives the count. For instance, if there are 30 threads hooked, the yarn count is determined as 30s . This method is practical for quick field assessments of yarn quality.

The Quadrant Balance operates by using a scale designed for the direct reading of yarn count with a cross beam and pivot. The sample is suspended on a hook, and the counterweight determines the scale's capacity. The balance is adjusted so that its pointer reads accurately, with special scales for different lengths, such as 8 and 40 yards . It may be preferred over other methods due to its straightforward setup and the ability to provide quick and reliable readings of yarn count directly from sample lengths, making it ideal for smaller textile labs with frequent testing needs.

The indirect system is characterized by the count being the number of units of length per unit of weight, meaning that as the count increases, the yarn is finer. This system is commonly used for cotton, woolen, worsted, and linen . In contrast, the direct system measures the count as the number of units of weight per unit length, making higher counts indicate coarser yarn. It is mainly used for jute, silk, and synthetic fibers .

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