Fabric Manufacturing II- Weaving

Warp and weft yarns are interlaced and converted to a woven fabric on a loom. A weaving loom can
be classified in many ways, some of which are listed here:

• Driven by electrical power (power loom) or by human power (hand loom).

• A shuttle loom or a shuttleless loom.

• Flat loom or circular loom, depending on the arrangement of warp sheet in a plane or along the
periphery of a cylinder, the product, accordingly, being either a flat sheet or a tube.

• Monophase or multiphase: One cycle of all basic motions of a loom being completed in a specific
order within one loom cycle in the case of a monophase loom, and in a multiphase loom, basic
motions of succeeding loom cycles are executed simultaneously.

Motions of Loom:
The motions of various loom elements can be broadly grouped into three classes, namely the
primary, secondary, and auxiliary or tertiary motions:

• The primary motions are shedding, picking, and beating up.

• The secondary motions are let off and take up.

• The important auxiliary motions are warp stop, weft stop, and warp- protecting motions.

Primary actions

Primary motions:
- Shedding

To form any weave structure, all warp threads under which a particular pick has to lie in the ultimate
cloth are raised during the shuttle passage while all threads which the same pick has to pass over,
are lowered. Thus, for each pick inserted, the individual warp threads are raised or lowered as
dictated by the weave plan. The action of raising and lowering the warp threads in this way is known
as “shedding” while the sheet opening so formed is called the “shed”.

- Picking

The action of passing the shuttle through the shed is called picking.

- Beating-up

Finally, after the insertion of each pick, the pick of weft itself has to be pushed forward by a ‘reed’ (a
type of closed comb through which all of the warp threads are drawn) to a point adjacent to the
previous pick, known as the ‘fell’, where cloth is thus formed. This third action is called ‘beating-up’.

Secondary motions:
In addition to the primary actions, two secondary actions are necessary. However, the instant at
which they are performed is at the discretion of the weaver in the case of simple hand-looms. On
the other hand, strict control and timing in relation to primary motions is required for power looms.

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 Fabric Manufacturing II- Weaving

- Taking up

This action involves the ‘taking-up’ of woven cloth as weaving proceeds so that the fell is maintained
in the same position.

- Letting-off

This action involves the ‘letting-off’ of further warp from a beam at the back of the loom to replace
that woven into cloth.

Chronological Development of Loom:

Primitive/ Vertical Loom: A vertical frame is used to hold the warp in stretched condition,
Shuttle less loom, does not contain any beater, reed and heald frame, secondary motion not
available, primary motions are manual, weft is inserted through shed by a needle one after the
other manually.

Pit Loom: This type of loom has a pit below the loom in which the weaving cycle takes place, the
yarn work inside the pit so that the warp yarn may absorb moisture and it will result better
weaving. It can contain either throw shuttle or fly shuttle mechanism (The throw shuttle is a
loom in which the shuttle is thrown across the shed by hand. In a fly shuttle loom, the shuttle is
sent across the shed by means of a mechanical picker)

Frame Loom: The loom was made of rods and panels fastened at the right angles to construct a
form similar to a box to make it more handy and manageable. Frame loom is being utilized even
until now because of its portability and economy.

Chittaranjan Loom/ Semi- automatic Loom: Chittaranjan loom is one of the types of semi-
automatic loom which is made of iron and wood. Picking and shedding motion is used here as fly
shuttle loom. Take up and let-off motion was added in this loom.

Hattersley Loom: Geaorge Hattersley and sons of Kighley developed the hattersley loom in the
West Yorskshire of England in 1856. This type of loom act in the same manner as like as power
loom without the movement of slay which either operated manually or by using power into the
top shaft.

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Ordinary Power Loom (Water Wheel, Steam, Disel, and Electric)/ Non- automatic Power Loom:
A power loom is a mechanized loom, and was one of the key developments in the
industrialization of weaving during the early Industrial Revolution. A non-automatic power loom
is “non-automatic” in the sense that, when the weft supply package in the shuttle becomes
exhausted, it must be replaced manually.

Automatic Power Loom: Automatic shuttle looms are essentially simple power looms to which
has been added means of automatic weft replenishment. However, in order to gain full
advantage of this latter feature, thus enabling a weaver to look after more looms, shuttle looms
should also be equipped with an automatic warp let-off motion and an automatic ‘warp-stop’
motion (which immediately stops the looms if a warp thread break occurs). All these features
are considered standard fitments on an automatic loom.

Modern/ Shuttle less Loom (Projectile, Rapier, Water Jet, Air Jet, Multiphase):

(a) Projectile loom. This class of looms uses a succession of small shuttle-like projectiles to
transport single picks of weft through the warp shed from stationary supply cones. These looms
are highly sophisticated weaving machines capable of a very high output of first-quality fabrics.

(b) Rapier looms. This type of looms consists of rigid and flexible rapier looms in which single
picks of weft are inserted from stationery supply packages, by means of a slim shaft or shafts
known as rapiers.

(c) Jet looms. This type of looms includes air-jet and water-jet looms. Water-jet looms are only
suitable for weaving continuous filament hydrophobic materials. In the air-jet looms the weft is
inserted by means of a very fine high velocity air-jet.

(d) Multiphase loom. This loom is still in the development stage, although preliminary versions
have been demonstrated. It is a further development of the multi-shuttle circular looms, but the
new versions are linear machines.

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 Fabric Manufacturing II- Weaving
Basic Machine Elements of a Shuttle loom:
 The prime mover is a motor, which transmits motion to the loom pulley by V-belts.
 A crankshaft—related to crank—is a mechanical part able to perform a conversion
between reciprocating motion and rotational motion. The crankshaft carries two cranks
along its length. These cranks occupy the same plane, and while the shaft rotates, its
cranks trace out the periphery of a circle.
 On the crankshaft, a gear wheel is mounted that meshes with another gear wheel of the
same pitch but with double the number of teeth. This larger wheel is carried by the
bottom shaft, which, therefore, rotates at half the speed of the crankshaft.
 The bottom shaft may carry the shedding tappets (cams) or may drive the tappet shaft
over a pair of gear wheels.
 Tappets are eccentric discs, which displace antifriction bowls that are pressed against
their active surfaces. Thus, a rotational motion of tappet is translated into a to-and-fro
or up-and-down motion of the follower bowl.

Fig: Motion transfer in a basic loom

 Shedding tappets (cams) operates a pair of bowls mounted on two treadle levers. The
treadle levers are fulcrummed at one end while their free ends are linked to vertical
heald shafts. The shedding tappets are positioned at a phase difference of 180°.
 One rotation of the crankshaft accounts for one loom cycle. Indeed, the loom rpm
represents the number of crank rotations per minute, which, in turn, stands for the
number of weaving cycles per minute.
 The reed is mounted on a sley, which is a horizontal beam supported near its two
extremities by two upright frames, known as sley swords.
 The rocking shaft acts as a fulcrum for the sley swords and supports the entire sley
system.
 The two sley swords are linked to two cranks by two crank arms. As the cranks execute a
rotary motion, the ends of the crank arms linked to the cranks also rotate, but their
other ends that are linked to the sley swords execute a to-and-fro motion.

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 Fabric Manufacturing II- Weaving

Fig: Cross sectional view of a basic loom

Frequency of primary motions and controlling shaft for Plain weave:

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 Fabric Manufacturing II- Weaving
Shedding Device or Mechanism:
There are three main mechanisms

1. Tappet mechanisms, which produce both heald shaft lifting and lowering actions with one
working component – the tappet (also called the ‘cam’).

It is simple, inexpensive, easy to maintain, reliable. Imposes no limitations on loom speeds. Normally
limited to 8 or 10 shafts and 8 or 10 picks/repeat. Inconvenient for frequent pattern changes.

2. Dobby and

3. Jacquard machines, where each function (the formation of the shed and the control of the shed
changing process) is carried out by a specific mechanism.

Dobbies are more complicated, higher initial and maintenance costs, slightly more liable to produce
fabric faults. Normally built to control 20-28 shafts. Picks per repeat virtually unlimited. Some
limitation in loom speed.

While Jacquard is simple in principle, but involves the use of a multiplicity of duplicate parts and is
therefore costly to install and maintain. More liable than dobby shedding to produce faults. All
except the most advanced types of jacquard, which can run at speeds of up to 300 picks/min, tend
to limit loom speeds. Patterning possibilities virtually unlimited.

Shedding mechanism Main characteristics

Cam (tappet) shedding a Simple to maintain and operate.
b Loom speed is relatively fast.
c Limited to designs repeating on 8–10 heald
shafts.
d Complicated for frequent change of designs
and therefore more economical for mass
production of the same patterns.
e Fewer fabric faults occur during weaving.
f Design repeat in the weft direction is limited.
Dobby shedding a Can be built to control up to 48 heald shafts
but commonly made with 32 levers. Each lever
controls one heald shaft.
b Offers unlimited picks per repeat in the
design (in weft direction).
c Easy to change the design. Requires only that
the new design be punched on the plastic
paper or on to lags with pegs.
d Higher initial costs and maintenance costs.
e Slightly prone to produce fabric faults.
Jacquard shedding a Can produce virtually unlimited designs both
in warp and weft directions.
b Most jacquard shedding mechanisms, except
the most advanced, tend to limit loom speeds
compared to cam and dobby shedding weaving
machines.
c Costly to install and maintain.

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 Fabric Manufacturing II- Weaving
Types of Shed:

Different types of shedding mechanisms yield different heald displacement profles. This is illustrated
in following figure for one heald, which has to keep the yarns in the top line for two consecutive
picks and bring them down and keep them in the bottom line over the next two picks. The resultant
curves plotted as a function of picks depict the motion of this heald.

Fig: Different types of shed

Bottom-closed Shed: Here all the ends return to the bottom position to form a closed shed after
every pick. There is a great deal of wasted movement in this weave, as there would be in any other
weave that required some ends to be lifted for two or more picks in succession. Some early types of
dobby produced this type of shed, but it is encountered nowadays only in handlooms and in single-
lift jacquards.

Semi-open Shed: In this case, as in bottom-closed shedding, the rest position is at the bottom, but
an end required to stay up for two or more picks in succession drops only to the centre position
between picks. There is less wasted movement than in the types of shed. This type of shed is formed

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 Fabric Manufacturing II- Weaving
by double lift jacquards. The ends do not form a single sheet between successive picks (i.e., the shed
is not closed), but neither does it remain fully open, nor hence we have the term 'semi open'.

Centre-closed Shed: Here all the ends return to the middle position to form a closed shed after
every pick. Whatever the weave, every end must be either raised or lowered at every pick, so again
there is a great deal of wasted movement. Centre-closed shed dobbies have been used for weaving
some kinds of Ieno fabrics in which the crossing of the ends was facilitated by the return of all the
ends to the centre position after each pick. And now practically obsolete. It is still used in some
jacquard machines because the movement is balanced and the wasted movement is reduced and
distributed uniformly over all the ends, and it is therefore preferable in this respect to bottom closed
shedding.

Open Shed: Here there is no rest position. Ends required to stay up or down for two or more
consecutive picks simply stay up or down. There is no wasted movement, and the shed never closes,
unless the weave is such that there is a complete interchange in the position of the ends between
successive picks. This is an exceptional condition encountered in weaves such as plain, warp rib, and
matt weaves. For most purposes, this is the ideal type of shed. It is attained without difficulty in
tappet shedding, especially with positive tappets. Double acting dobbies also produces an open
shed.

Advantages of the Different Types of Shed:

It is much easier for the weaver to repair a broken end if all the ends are in one plane. With bottom
closed and centre closed sheds, this happens after every pick, but, in general, it does not happen at
all with semi open and open sheds. It is therefore customary to fit a heald levelling device to double
acting dobbies to enable the weaver to bring all the shafts into the bottom positionquickly and easily
while broken ends are being repaired.

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 Fabric Manufacturing II- Weaving

Negative and Positive Shedding:

Negative Negative Negative

Tappet Dobby Jacquard

Positive Positive

The lifting or lowering of the heald shafts is achieved by using different shedding mechanisms which
can be positive or negative. In positive shedding, the heald shafts are both raised and lowered by
tappets or dobby within the shedding mechanism. In negative shedding, the healds are either raised
or lowered by the shedding mechanism but then returned by the action of an external device, such
as a spring or reversing roller mechanism.

Detailed Classification of Tappet, Dobby and Jacquard:

Tappet

According to driving of heald shaft:

(a) Positive

(b) Negative

Dobby

1. According to lift:

(a) Single lift

(b) Double lift

2. According to figuring capacity (no. of heald shaft):

48’s, 36’s, 24’s, 20’s, 16’s, 12’s

3. According to driving of heald shaft:

(a) Positive

(b) Negative

4. According to types of shed:

(a) Bottom close shed

(b) Centre close shed

(c) Semi-open shed

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(d) Open shed

5. According to no. of jack lever:

(a) Single jack lever

(b) Double jack lever

These are termed in general as,

(a) Single lift single jack dobby

(b) Double lift single jack dobby
(c) Double lift double jack dobby

Jacquard

1. According to lift:

(a) Single lift

(b) Double lift

2. According to no. of pattern cylinder:

(a) Single cylinder

(b) Double cylinder

3. According to figuring capacity (no. of heald wire):

144’s, 160’s

These are termed in general as,

(a) Single lift single cylinder jacquard

(b) Double lift single cylinder jacquard
(c) Double lift double cylinder jacquard

Tappet Shedding:

This type of shedding is very simple, inexpensive, easy to maintain, reliable. Imposes no limitations
on loom speeds. Normally limited to 8 or 10 shafts and 8 or 10 picks/repeat. Inconvenient for
frequent pattern changes.

The shedding cams will be called negative if they can only push and not pull. If the mechanism as a
whole is positive in action, it is made so by the action of the roller reversing motion, which in
practice is very far from positive or precise in action. The following one is a negative tappet shedding
mechanism.

Negative Tappet Shedding

A pair of cams mounted on the bottom shaft is sufficient for weaving many plain cloths. A slightly
simplified line diagram of an arrangement of this kind is shown in the figure below. The tappets are
placed beneath the loom in the bottom shaft. Treadles or treadle levers are fulcrummed low down
near the back of the loom, and each carries an antifriction bowl on which the corresponding tappet

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 Fabric Manufacturing II- Weaving
or cams. The treadles are connected with helad frames via connecting rod. Connections are made
also from the top of each heald frame to the roller reversing motion. When one heald frame is
lowered by, the action of its cam, the other one is raised through the roller reversing motion.

Fig: Negative Tappet Shedding Mechanism

Positive Tappet Shedding

Positive cams are capable of both raising and lowering the heald frames without the use of a
reversing motion. The figure given below shows a positive tappet shedding mechanism. In following
the cam track, the cam follower moves up and down, and the lower end of the lever, marked 'tappet
lever' in the diagram, moves to and fro. It moves the bottom link rod in same direction and the heald
frame is moved up and down by straightening and bending of the other two link rods shown in the
figure.

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 Fabric Manufacturing II- Weaving

Fig: Positive Tappet Shedding Mechanism

Dobby Shedding:

In negative-dobby shedding, the shafts are raised by the dobby and lowered by some form of spring
under motion. In positive-dobby shedding, the dobby mechanism both raises and lowers the heald
frames. Negative dobbies tend to be simpler, and, because they are satisfactory except for heavy
fabrics and high loom speeds, they are commoner than positive dobbies.

Negative Dobby Shedding:

Single Lift Single Jack:

Fig: Single Lift Single Jack Dobby

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 Fabric Manufacturing II- Weaving
The dobby is moved by a rod (R) worked from the crank. The knife (D) is given backwards and
forwards (‘to and fro’) motion through the lever (L). The actual selection of the heald frames to be
lifted on each pick is made by the presence or absence of pegs in the lags.

Fig: Pegging system of Dobby

The selection of the heald frames to be lifted on each pick is pegged in the lags (see figure). These
pegs are joined in the form of a chain, which is put on a barrel (B) which in turn moves into a new
position on every revolution of the loom. A series of feelers, or levers (A), are located above the
pegs. One end of each lever (A) supports another hook (C). The presence of a peg lifts the fller which,
through the leverage mechanism, lowers a hook (C) (as indicated by broken lines in the fgure). The
hook and knife (C and D) are engaged and the resulting movement of the hooks through the levers
raises the heald frames (h) via a baulk lever (b) and jack (j). For each heald frame there is one feeler,
one hook and a lever, their total number indicating the capacity of the dobby, i.e. the maximum
number of shafts that can be used for a given design.

Double Lift Single Jack:

The following figure shows the schematic diagram of a basic negative dobby mechanism in which a
baulk and pairs of feelers, pegs, hooks and knives are used for each heald frame. The double lift
dobby’s cycle occupies two picks and therefore most of its motions occur at half the loom speed
which allows higher running speeds. All modern negative dobbies are double lift dobbies. Negative
dobbies tend to be simpler than the positive dobbies.

Referring to the figure, the knives (K1 and K2) reciprocate in slots along a fixed path (the mechanism
to move the knives is not shown). They complete one reciprocation every two picks. When a peg in
the lag forming part of the pattern chain raises the right end of feeler F1, the rod C is lowered which
in turn causes the hook (H1) to be lowered and engaged with the knife K1. Then, the knife K1 is
moved to the right carrying the hook H1 with it. This movement is transmitted to D on the baulk
(AB).

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 Fabric Manufacturing II- Weaving

Fig: Schematic Diagram of a Double Lift Single Jack Dobby

The stop (S2) acts as a fulcrum. As a result, the jack is moved through the central link. The motion of
D is magnified by the lever action of the jack and is transmitted to the harness via straps. The holes
in the lags are positioned such that they correspond with the location of the feelers. The pattern
chain is turned intermittently by a wheel so that a new lag is presented every second pick.

Function of Stop Bar:

When the heald is in lower position for two consecutive picks, the top as well as the bottom end of
the baulk will be resting on the respective stop bars i.e. S1 and S2. So, the midpoint of the baulk will
not have any significant movement. On the other hand, if the heald is in raised position for two
consecutive picks, then one end of the baulk will move away from the stop bar and another end of
the baulk will move towards the stop bar. Thus the middle point of the baulk will not experience any
significant movement as schematically shown in following figure. Thus the amount of wasted
movement is very nominal. Therefore, the system will produce open shed.

Fig: Function of Stop Bar

Double Lift Double Jack:

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 Fabric Manufacturing II- Weaving

Fig: Double Lift Double Jack Dobby

According to fabric design, when peg comes in contact with the feeler, then the right portion of
feeler is raised and the left portion being lowered. As hooks are supported with feeler, hooks are
lowered. When a feeler is lowered by peg, then the hook come in contact with the corresponding
knife. As a result, all settings move to the right. Thus the heald frame is raised up. Similarly, when
the other feeler is lowered, then the other hook comes in contact with the other knife which results
raising of the heald frame again.

Driving of knives with Cam instead of Crank (Cam Dobby):

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 Fabric Manufacturing II- Weaving

According to fabric design, when peg comes in contact with the feeler, then the left portion of feeler
is raised and the right portion being lowered. As hooks are supported with feeler, hooks are
lowered. When a feeler is lowered by peg, then the upper hook come in contact with corresponding
knife. As a result, all settings move to outward direction. Thus the heald frame is raised up. Similarly,
when the other feeler is lowered, then the other hook comes in contact with the other knife which
results raising of the heald frame again. The knives are moved by cam which is run by bottom shaft.
When a cam pushes the lever of a knife with its furthest point, the knife moves in outward direction
while the other cam does the same in next pick in double lift dobby as shown in the figure above.

Advantages of Cam Dobby:

1. Clearer loom alley space.

2. Reduced warp breakage due to reduced depth of shed.
3. Very smooth movement of the healds.
4. Amount of lift of healds can be increased or decreased for particular type of warp.

Dobby in Modern Loom:

The following figure represents a modern version of a dobby attachment on a loom, using a plastic
punched tape or paper instead of the pegs on lags as described above. In this type of dobby, needle
is used instead of peg.

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 Fabric Manufacturing II- Weaving

Fig: Dobby with paper pattern system

Dobby with paper pattern mechanism:

In another development of the dobby, the chain of lags is replaced by a loop of very tough paper or
plastics sheet. Holes punched in the paper correspond to pegs in the lags, a hole causing the
corresponding heald frames to be lifted. Light feelers are used to detect the presence or absence of
a hole, but the force required to move the hooks is not supplied by feelers. A typical system of
selection for a paper-controlled dobby is illustrated below.

(a) (b)
Fig: Needle and paper pattern mechanism

The feelers, selection needles n1 and n2 in this case, are lowered onto the paper pattern by a cam
control, which is not shown in the diagram. If there is a hole, the corresponding supplementary hook
(or horizontal selection needle), h1 or h2, is lowered into the path of one of the reciprocating
supplementary knives (figure a) or pushing bar (figure b), k1 or k2, which then moves the
corresponding vertical lifting needle (long or short), r1 or r2, out of the path of the vertically
reciprocating lifting bar, b1 or b2. In this case, the main hook, H1 or H2, is lowered onto its knife (K1, K2)
which then lifts the heald frame. If there is no hole in the pattern, the corresponding lifting bar, b1 or
b2, keeps the main hook out of the path of its main knife, and the shaft is not lifted. The following
figures show double lift single jack dobby driven by cam (C1, C2).

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Fig: Double Lift Single Jack Dobby with Paper Pattern Mechanism (Cam Dobby)

Pattern Making:

The selection of the heald frames to be lifted on each pick is done by vertical selection needle in
shown in above figures. A plastic paper is generally used as paper pattern. That paper is rolled to fit
it on to the pattern cylinder. Holes are made in the paper to lift the heald frames. The pattern
cylinder rotates 1 pick space at every revolution of the loom. A pattern is given for a design below.

× × P4 O O O O
× × × P3 O O O O O O
× × × P2 O O O O O O
× × P1 O O O O

Advantages of Paper Pattern Mechanism:

As a result of this indirect action, very little force is exerted by the selection needles on the pattern
paper, which consequently has a long life. Pegs tend to wear, break, and faIl out; which produces
wrong lifts and faults in the fabric. Paper control eliminates these faults. The paper pattern takes less
time to prepare-by means of a punching machine designed for the purpose than the corresponding
set of lags unless the repeat is small, in which case several repeats need cutting for the paper-
pattern method. The paper pattern is very much lighter and more compact than the corresponding
set of lags, and this is particularly important in weaving very long patterns, such as occur in the
manufacture of bordered handkerchiefs and table cloths, which normally have several hundred picks
to the repeat. In practice, these obvious advantages of paper control have to be weighed against the
extra cost and complexity of the machine

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 Fabric Manufacturing II- Weaving
Positive Dobby:

In the following figures, Fig 1 contains two cylinders, C1 and C2, which rotate continuously on fixed
centres and make one revolution every pick. Approximately half the circumference of each is
machined to form an elongated gear wheel. Toothed discs, B, one for each shaft, are pivoted
individually on levers L, which are fulcrummed at F.

Figure: Positive Dobby Shedding Mechanism

 In Fig 1, the lever L has been raised by a bowl on the pattern chain, and the cylinder C2 is
about to turn the disc B through approximately half a revolution. A missing tooth in B
enables it to engage with the teeth on the cylinder [Link] rotation of B from the position

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 Fabric Manufacturing II- Weaving
shown in Fig 1 moves the jack J in a clockwise direction by means of a link E. This lifts the
heald shaft.
 The position is now as in Fig 2, a slot in the disc B, concentric with its axis, is used to limit the
extent of its rotation. If another bowl raises the lever L on the next pick, the cylinder C2 will
be unable to turn the disc B because there is now a blank space, corresponding to three
missing teeth, in B at the point of engagement. The shaft will remain up so long as a bowl
continues to be presented on successive picks.
 If the diameter of the bowl is reduced, lever L and disc B are now allowed to fall and take up
the position shown in Fig 3, in which B is about to be turned in the opposite direction by the
cylinder C1. This will rotate the jack in an anti-clockwise direction and lower the heald shaft.

Difference between Negative dobby and Positive dobby

Positive dobby Negative dobby

1. The dobby can raise and lower the heald 1. It can raise the heald shaft and lowering is
shaft. done by other mechanism.
2. Additional arrangement is not required. 2. Additional arrangement (dead wt. /spring) is
required.
3. Normally open shed is produced. 3. Bottom closed/semi-open/open shed
produced.
4. Low speed. 4. High speed.
5. Less stress & strain on warp. 5. More stress & strain on warp.

Difference between single lift and double lift dobby

Single lift dobby Double lift dobby

1. It forms a bottom closed shed. 1. It forms semi open or open shed.
2. Each hook of this dobby controls a single 2. Two hooks in this dobby control a single
heald. heald.
3. More time is required to produce a shed. 3. Less time is required.
4. Speed of loom is low. 4. Speed of loom is high.
5. More strain is put on warp line. 5. Less strain is put on warp line.
6. Heavy wear & tear. 6. Less wear & tear.

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 Fabric Manufacturing II- Weaving

Jacquard Shedding:

Jacquard fabric is a fabric in which a large number of warp threads, in excess of the capacity of a
dobby, weave differently and therefore require a jacquard mechanism. In Jacquard shedding, heald
wires are manipulated individually by means of cords (or a harness) and not collectively through the
agency of a heald frame. The shedding mechanism is mostly mounted on top of the loom on a
gantry.

Figure: A Jacquard Loom

The essential elements of a traditional jacquard are hooks, needles, perforated squared cylinder and
a griffe with knives. A Jacquard design is punched onto strips of card, with one card for each pick.
When all the cards have been punched, they are laced together in the form of a chain and placed
around the squared perforated cylinder. The holes in the card match the holes in the cylinder, whilst
blanks in the card cover holes in the cylinder. For each loom cycle, the cylinder has two movements
away from the needles as well as turning once to bring the next punched card into place and pressed
against the needles.

Single Lift Single Cylinder Jacquard (SLSC):

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 Fabric Manufacturing II- Weaving
On a single-lift jacquard, there is one needle for each hook, with one end of the needle resting in a
spring box, the coiled spring of which presses the needle towards the right and out of the needle
board. All the needles face the holes on the squared cylinder, each needle corresponding to a hole.
Each needle has a small bent kink into which the vertical hook is positioned.

Figure: Single Lift Single Cylinder Jacquard

If there is a hole in the card opposite the particular needle, the needle can enter the hole in the
cylinder beneath and the position of the corresponding hook will not be disturbed.

 As this is happening, the griffe on the top with knives fxed into it reciprocates vertically once
every pick. If the hook has not been disturbed from its position, the knife gets engaged with
the hook and, while moving up, takes the hook with it. At the bottom of the hook the
harness cord is attached by a mail through which the warp end has been passed.
 Thus, when the hook goes up, the warp is raised with it. If there is a blank in the card, as the
cylinder moves inward and the card is presented against the needle, the card pushes the
needle to the left. Thus, the hook controlled by this needle is moved out of the path of the
knife as it goes up and the hook is not engaged; the hook and the warp ends tied to it are
therefore not lifted.

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Features of SLSC Jacquard

 500 end machine will have 500 needles and 500 hooks.
 Cylinder should turn in every pick.
 Knives must complete the cycle of rise and fall in every pick.
 Each hook controls a number of harnesses depending on the number of repeats of the
design in the given width of the warp.
 This type of jacquard forms a bottom closed shed and limits the loom speed.

Double Lift Single Cylinder Jacquard (DLSC):

In this type of jacquard, each needle is made with two kinks to control the movement of two hooks.
it has two sets of knives mounted in two griffes that move up and down in opposition over a two-
pick cycle. The cylinder reciprocates and turns every two picks.

Fig: Double Lift Single Cylinder Jacquard

 As this is happening, the griffe on the top with knives fxed into it reciprocates vertically once
every pick. If the hook has not been disturbed from its position, the knife gets engaged with
the hook and, while moving up, takes the hook with it. At the bottom of the hook the
harness cord is attached by a mail through which the warp end has been passed.
 Thus, when the hook goes up, the warp is raised with it. If there is a blank in the card, as the
cylinder moves inward and the card is presented against the needle, the card pushes the
needle to the left. Thus, the hook controlled by this needle is moved out of the path of the

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knife as it goes up and the hook is not engaged; the hook and the warp ends tied to it are
therefore not lifted.

Features of DLSC Jacquard

 500 end machine will have 500 needle and 1000 hooks.
 Two sets of knives rise and fall in opposite phase.
 Cycles of movement (rise and fall) of each set of knives spans over two picks.
 Cylinder should turn in every pick.
 The advantage of this loom is, if an end is required to remain up for more than two or more
consecutive picks, it is lowered half way between the picks and raised again. This reduces
the strain on the particular warp ends and the breakage rate also. It produces a semi-open
shed.

Double Lift Double Cylinder Jacquard (DLDC):

In a double cylinder double-lift jacquard there are two sets of needles and hooks as well as two
cylinders (one of which carries the even-numbered cards and the other, the odd-numbered cards).
Each needle controls one hook.

Figure: Double Lift Double Cylinder Jacquard

 As this is happening, the griffe on the top with knives fxed into it reciprocates vertically once
every pick. If the hook has not been disturbed from its position, the knife gets engaged with
the hook and, while moving up, takes the hook with it. At the bottom of the hook the
harness cord is attached by a mail through which the warp end has been passed.

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 Thus, when the hook goes up, the warp is raised with it. If there is a blank in the card, as the
cylinder moves inward and the card is presented against the needle, the card pushes the
needle to the left. Thus, the hook controlled by this needle is moved out of the path of the
knife as it goes up and the hook is not engaged; the hook and the warp ends tied to it are
therefore not lifted.

Features of DLDC Jacquard

 500 end machine will have 1000 needles and 1000 hooks
 Two sets of knives rise and fall in opposite phase
 Cycles of movement (rise and fall) of each set of knives spans over two picks
 Cylinder should turn in alternate pick
 Since the cylinder speed is half that of the single cylinder jacquard, the double cylinder
double-lift jacquard is capable of running at higher speeds. It produces a semi-open shed.
One advantage of this mechanism is that, if an end needs to remain up for more than two or
more consecutive picks, it is lowered just half way between the picks before being raised
again. This reduces the strain on the warp ends concerned and consequently reduces the
breakage rate.

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Dwell Period

The tappet should be so made that headls will remain stationary while the shuttle passes through
the shed. This stationary period is known as dwell of healds or dwell period or pause. So, dwell
period is the stationary period when the heald frames do not change their position and shed
remains open to allow the passage of the shuttle from one shuttle box to another.

The dwell period depend upon the following factors –

 The dwell period needs to be as short as possible.

 In wide loom, the dwell period will be long.
 In narrow reed space loom, dwell period will be short.
 For fine and tender warp, dwell period will be short.
 For coarse, strong and elastic warp, dwell period will be long.
 If the picking force is high the dwell period will be short.

Figure: Dwell Period of a Loom

Advantages and Disadvantages of Tappet Shedding

Advantages

 Simplest Mechanism.
 Cheapest of all shedding motions.
 If conveniently employed, it gives the best result within its capacity.
 Action is certain.
 It can move healds at high speed.

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 Dwell period may be adjusted to suit the type of fabric to be woven.
 Puts less strain upon the threads.
 Consumes less power and gives greater output.
 It causes fewer defects to the fabric.

Disadvantages

 Over shedding strains and breaks the warp threads.

 Under shedding does not permit the passage of the shuttle through the shed.
 Sometimes unequal shedding by lifting one end of the shaft more than other.
 Unsuited dwell period.
 May impart jerky motion.
 Needs different shape of tappet for different design, so design changing is difficult.

Figure: Tappets for Different Designs

Factors Considered for Creating Shedding Cams or Tappets:

The shedding cam has to be designed in accordance with the interlacement pattern (plain, twill,
satin etc). The design of the shedding cam influences the following things:

 Dwell time of the shed

 The movement pattern of the heald during the rise and fall

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Shedding cams are mounted either on the bottom shaft (for plain and its derivatives) or on the
tappet (cam) shaft.

The following parameters/ information are needed to design a shedding cam.

 Weave design of the fabric

 Minimum distance between cam and follower centres/ nearest point of contact
 Lift of the cam (difference between maximum and minimum radius of the cam)
 Diameter of follower
 Dwell of the cam (duration of the two dwells)
 Duration of the rise and fall
 Character of movement (linear, SHM etc.)

Advantages and Disadvantages of Dobby Shedding

Advantages

 In this loom many numbers of healds can be used for weave a figured fabrics.
 Particularly 12-24 healds can be used in a cotton industry to weave fabrics.
 In which fabrics are not possible to weave in tappet shedding loom and jacquard loom for
increasing the production cost, to weave this kind of fabrics dobby are used extensively.

Disadvantages

 Comparatively cost is high than tappet loom.

 Less productivity than tappet loom.
 Less speed than tappet loom.
 The adjustment of dwell is complicated.
 Maintenance cost is so high.

Advantages and Disadvantages of Jacquard Shedding

Advantages

 Almost any type of design can be made.

 Works with more or less simple mechanism.

Disadvantages

 Large scale moving parts makes the machine and its harness relatively costly to install and
maintain.
 Jacquard fabrics are much more costly to produce.
 Jacquard machines are even more liable to produce faults in the fabric than dobbies.
 Designing is difficult and time consuming.
 Pattern change is a time consuming process.

Picking:

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The main functions of any picking mechanism are:

(a) To deliver the shuttle along the correct flight path: and

(b) To project the shuttle at a predetermined velocity.

Overpick Mechanism:

The cone-over pick mechanism is shown in the following figure.

Fig: Tappet and cone Overpick Mechanism

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A picking cam attached to bottom shaft displaces the cone (picking cone) which is attached with the
upright picking shaft. This causes rotation of the picking shaft. As a result, the picking stick, which is
attached to the uppermost end of picking shaft, swing in a horizontal plane over the loom and
transmits the motion to shuttle through picking strap and picker guided by a spindle. Picking strap is
a leather or polymeric belt which is flexible. Here picker is constrained by the spindle to move in a
straight line which otherwise would have followed a path of arc. Moreover, pairs of picking cam and
follower installed at either end of the loom have seldom ensured picking of equal strength (force).
The cams responsible for rotation of the picking stick receive motion through bottom shaft.

Problems of Over Pick Mechanism

It is robust, easy to adjust and maintain, and comparatively gentle in action, so that shuttles and
pickers, as well as parts of the mechanism itself, have a long life. These facts account for its former
popularity, which began to wane with the growth of automatic weaving, for which it is not suitable,
chiefly because the picking stick and spindle at one side of the loom occupy the position in which the
battery or magazine of an automatic loom must be placed.

Underpick Mechanism:

This is the mechanism that has, in one form or another, to a large extent replaced the cone-overpick,
since it is suitable for nearly all types of loom and fabric. This mechanism allows to use a bobbin-
changing automatic loom and on a multiple-drop-box loom.

Cone Underpick Mechanism:

In this mechanism, the picking tappet or cam is rotated by bottom shaft as shown in the following
figure. Here also a picking cam attached to bottom shaft displaces the cone turning the picking shaft
(side shaft) located horizontally. The other end of the picking shaft is connected with upright picking
stick through the picking strap (lug strap). This causes the picking stick to move in a vertical plane
and transmits the motion to shuttle by the picker attached at the upper end of it.

Fig: Cone Underpick Mechanism

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When the picking tappet presses the cone by using its nose bit, the side shaft turns slightly which
forces the picker to come forward and hit the shuttle and as a result the shuttle goes in to the shed.
The bearing at one end of the picking shaft moves the mechanism to its initial position after
completing the pick insertion.

The two common ways of achieving this substantially horizontal movement of the picker in this cone
underpciking system are:

(a) Parallel pick

(b) Link pick

Parallel Pick Mechanism:

In the parallel-pick method, a curved shoe fixed to the bottom of the picking stick rides on a
horizontal plate fixed to the sley sword, the shoe being kept in contact with the plate partly by
gravity and partly by spring pressure.

It is also necessary to prevent the shoe from sliding along or across the plate. For this purpose, a
semi-rigid loop or bracket connects the shoe and plate, and the picking stick usually extends through
a slot in the plate. A spring attached to this extension may be used to return the picking stick at the
end of the pick.

It is shown in the following figure. Bottom shaft presses the free end of the shoe with the help of a
tappet. The nose of the tappet presses the cone attached to a lever which actually presses the shoe.
When the shoe is pressed, the shuttle enters the shed as shown in the figure (b).

Figure: Parallel Pick Mechanism

Link Pick Mechanism:

Attempt to increase loom speed further creates one unfavourable situation where contact between
shoe and plate is often disrupted resulting undesirable picker movement which deflects shuttle from

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its right path or undue wear of it and even fly-out. Modification through link pick is done to
overcome this limitation as shown in the following figure. Here a picking stick (P) is contained by
metal piece (M) which is attached to the lower end of the picking stick. M connects itself to a bracket
(B) fastened to the sley sword through two arms (A).

Fig: Link Pick Mechanism

This mechanism works with the movement of the sley sword. When the bracket is pressed, the
bracket goes backward and the picking stick goes forward as shown in figure (b) which results
insertion of the shuttle in the shed.

Bowl and Shoe Underpick Mechanism:

Bowl-and-shoe-underpick mechanisms have been used in various forms, especially in multiple-

shuttle looms, such as those used for weaving cotton and rayon jacquard furnishing fabrics or fancy
woollen and worsted fabrics. The two main types are;

a) Side-lever mechanism and

b) Side-shaft mechanism

These two mechanisms are quite similar, one containing a lever and the other one containing a
shaft. The lever (for figure a) or the shaft (for figure b) is pressed by the disc containing an
antifriction bowl, the disc is rotated by the bottom shaft. The bowl presses the picking shoe (for
figure a) or the face of the shoe (for figure b) which then moves the picker or picking stick forward
by using an iron shoe (in figure a) or a side shaft lever (for figure b) and this forward movement of
picker results insertion of shuttle in to the shed. The return spring helps the picker to return to its
initial position after the bowl move away from the picking shoe (for figure a) or face of the shoe (for
figure b).

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Fig: Bowl and Shoe Underpick Mechanisms

Essentials for good picking:

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Defects of Shuttle Picking:

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Beat Up:
The function of beat up is to push the inserted weft thread up to the fell of cloth. It is done by using
the reed.

The objectives of beat-up motion are as follows:

• To push the newly inserted pick up to the cloth fell

• To ensure uniform pick spacing in the fabric

Beat up is generally of two types;

1. Crank beat up (beat up takes place by crank shaft)

2. Cam beat up (beat up takes place by using bottom shaft with cam)

Sley Motion:

Beat-up is done by the reed which is carried by the sley. Sley gives its rectilinear reciprocating
motion from the rotating crank shaft through the connections of crank and crank arm. It is
supported by a rocking shaft placed at the bottom end of the sley sword.

Fig: Sley Motion

Crank Beat Up System:

Single Beat Up Mechanism:

This mechanism is driven by crank shaft. The crank of crank shaft converts the rotary motion to
reciprocating motion. Connecting arm which connects sley sword ear and crank of crank shaft gets
reciprocating motion from crank. As a result the sley sword, supported by the rocking shaft gets its
rectilinear reciprocating motion from the rotating crank shaft through the connections of crank and
crank or connecting arm. The reed is placed at the top of the sley sword and it pushes the inserted
weft towards the fell of cloth. This system gives one beat up in every weaving cycle. This type of beat
up is used for all typical fabrics including shirts, pants, bed sheets, etc.

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Fig: Single Beat Up Mechanism

Double Beat Up Mechanism:

Fig: Double Beat Up Mechanism

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For weaving heavy fabrics in heavy looms, double beat up is used for getting maximum pick density.
Carpet weaving is the best example of this system. In the figure above, the arm E and F are
controlled by connecting arm C. There is a moveable knuckle joint at D at which the arm E and F can
be bent in the way given in the right sided figure. This movement is controlled by crank B which
rotates and moves the joint with connecting arm at G and H position as shown in the figure (left
sided) at which positions the arms E and F are straightened. The straightened position of arms E and
F gives forward motion to the sley (beat up position) while the bent position gives backward
movement to the sley. This happen twice in one rotation of crank shaft for which two beat up take
place in one rotation of crank shaft. That’s why it is named as double beat up system.

Cam Beat Up System:

Fig: Cam Beat Up System

In this system, there are two antifriction bowl (C and D) placed in two sides of the sley sword as
shown in the figure above. Since there is no crank shaft, the beat up mechanism gets the motion
from bottom shaft directly. There are two matched cams A and B which are rotated by the bottom
shaft. The cams A and B works with bowl C and D respectively. When bowl C is pressed, the sley
moves to the left and beat up takes place while pressing bowl D moves the sley to the opposite
direction. The rocking shaft at the bottom supports the motion of the sley sword.

Advantages of Cam Beat Up:

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Disadvantages of Cam Beat Up:

Requirements for Good Beat Up:

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Take-Up:
The objective of take-up is to draw forward the woven cloth as a new pick is inserted in order to
maintain the line of fabric formation and pick spacing constant.

Classification of Take-Up

Take-up motion is classified as negative and positive take-up. Another way of classifying it is
intermittent and continuous take-up. Intermittent take-up actuates itself only after newly inserted
pick is beaten-up by the sley. On the other hand, continuous take-up operates continuously to draw
the woven fabric. The presence of ratchet and pawl arrangement in the take-up mechanism makes it
intermittent type whereas the presence of worm and worm wheel renders it a continuous one.

Negative Take-Up

Attribute ‘negative’ justifies itself in the sense that no positive or direct motion is imparted to the
take-up roller to wind up the woven fabric.

Positive Take-Up

In positive take-up, motion gets transmitted to take-up roller directly through gear train. Positive-
take-up motions are sometimes classified as continuous (worm and-worm-wheel drive) or
intermittent (pawl-and-ratchet-wheel drive). This is not a very fundamental difference, although the
distinction may be convenient, because wide, heavy looms tend to use the former and narrower,
lighter looms the latter (Continuous take-up is common, for example, in woollen and worsted
weaving but is much less popular in weaving cotton and continuous-filament yarn). So the
classification can be like this;

Positive Take-Up:

a) Continuous (Indirect Only)

b) Intermittent
i. Direct
ii. Indirect

In indirect drive, the cloth is usually drawn forward by frictional contact with a take-up roller, which
is driven through gearing at the required uniform rate. The cloth being wound up onto a separate
roller, as shown in the figure below.

D= Cloth Roller, F= Take-Up Roller, G= Felt Covered Roller, E= Breast Beam

Fig: Indirect Take-Up System

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Alternatively, the cloth may be wound directly onto the driven roller. This is called direct take-up. In
this case, the rate of rotation of the driven roller has to be reduced progressively as the cloth builds
up so as to maintain a constant linear rate of take-up. Direct take-up is relatively uncommon and is
normally used in conjunction with intermittent drive, particularly in some looms designed
specifically for weaving continuous-filament yarns.

Five-wheel Take-up (Intermittent type)

Five-wheel take-up motion is depicted in the figure below. The typical size of the gear is also given in
the figure. It is a positive intermittent type take-up motion. Wheel CW denotes the change wheel
which is in the driver position for five-wheel take-up. The amount of fabric take-up and therefore the
rotation required in the take-up roller after every pick is minuscule. This is achieved by keeping the
driver wheels smaller than the driven wheels. The ratchet wheel A, having 50 teeth, is turned by one
tooth for every pick.

Fig: Five Wheel Take Up Motion

The amount of cloth taken up for each pick which corresponds to the pick spacing can be calculated
as follows.

Pick spacing = 1/50×CW/120 ×15/75 ×15 = CW/2000 inch.

Therefore, picks/inch or PPI = 2000/CW.

For example, in order to achieve 80 PPI the number of teeth in the change wheel will be CW =
2000/80 = 25.

Seven-wheel Take-up (Intermittent Type)

Seven-wheel take-up motion is shown in following figure. It is also a positive intermittent type take-
up motion. Here the position of CW is in driven position. For each pick, the ratchet wheel (A) is
turned by one teeth.

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 Fabric Manufacturing II- Weaving

Fig: Seven Wheel Take-Up Motion

The amount of fabric taken up for each pick which corresponds to the pick spacing can be calculated
as follows.

Pick spacing = 1/24× 36/CW×24/89 ×16/90 ×15.05 = 1.015/CW inch.

Picks/inch or PPI = CW/1.015

or, CW= 1.015 PPI

Therefore, the number of teeth in the change wheel is 1.5% higher than the PPI in the fabric in loom
state. This 1.5% allowance is given for the length wise fabric contraction, thereby the teeth in the
change wheel equals to the PPI, when the fabric is taken off the loom.

Shirley Take-up (Continuous Type)

It is a continuous type take-up motion as depicted in following figure.

Fig: Shirley Take-Up

Wheel A is driven continuously by chain and sprocket at one quarter of the loom speed i.e. picks per
minute. A drives change wheel (CW) through the career wheel B. A single worm (D) on the same
shaft of CW drives a worm wheel E on the take-up roller shaft. The use of worm causes drastic
reduction in rotational speed in one step which makes Shirley take-up system different from five and
seven-wheel take-up system. The circumference of take-up roller is 10 inch.

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 Fabric Manufacturing II- Weaving
The amount of cloth taken up for each pick corresponds to the pick spacing can be calculated as:

Thus the number of teeth on the change wheel is equal to the pick per inch.

For Practice:

Find Pick Spacing and derive the equation for calculating PPI from the followings;

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 Fabric Manufacturing II- Weaving
Let-Off
The objective of let-off motion is to maintain the free length of warp within specified limits and to
control the warp tension by means of feeding the warp at a correct rate to the weaving zone.

Classification

Let-off motion is classified as negative and positive let-off. In case of negative let-off, warp is pulled
from the warper’s beam against a slipping-friction system. For positive let-off system, warp beam is
rotated through driving mechanism at a controlled rate in order to maintain constant warp tension.

Positive Let-off

In case of positive let-off warp, the warp tension is controlled by a mechanism which drives the warp
beam at a correct rate. In most of the positive let-off systems, the backrest is not fixed but floating.
It acts as a warp tension sensing mechanism.

Fig: Hunt’s Let-Off Mechanism

As the tension in the warp increases, the backrest is depressed. A Hunt positive let-off motion is
illustrated in the following figure. There are two split pullyes made out of V-pulley. Motion from

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 Fabric Manufacturing II- Weaving
crank shaft moves the top split pulley via a worm and worm wheel. Top pulley in turn drives the
bottom pulley through a belt. As the tension on the warp increases the back rest goes down and the
L-type lever with weight lowers the diameter of the bottom pulley and essentially increases the
diameter of the top pulley through the necessary linkages. Now the bottom pulley moves at a faster
rate than it was earlier and the connecting worm to the beam drive moves more to deliver extra
warp in order to reduce the warp tension.

Function of Backrest Roller:

The backrest roller is used in controlling the warp tension and compensating the tension put by
healds on the warp, but it is still responsible for putting stress on warp. To calculate the warp length
after this stress and to determine the amount of strain, researchers have also given an equation;

Length of warp during weaving= Change of warp length caused by backrest movement+ Change of
warp length caused by healdframe movement+ Change of warp length caused by reed movement+
Initial length of warp.

So, all the way from warp beam to fell of cloth, the warp has to undergo a lot of tension and it
results strain on warp. The strain on warp has direct impact on fabric properties. So if the tension
can be controlled, the fabric properties can be controlled to some extent. And to control the tension
on warp, backrest roller is used.

Backrest roller has effect on;

 Density of yarn
 Breaking strength of the fabric
 Elongation at break of the fabric
 GSM of the fabric
 Thickness of the fabric
 Air permeability of the fabric
 Water permeability of the fabric
 Abrasion resistance of the fabric
 Tear resistance of the fabric
 Fabric appearance

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