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Native American and Colonial Feasts

Native American tribes such as those in the American Northwest held ceremonial feasts called potlatches to commemorate important events, where an abundance of food would be provided. Prior to the Revolutionary War, American cuisine was based on English customs and featured multi-course formal dinners. Thomas Jefferson brought French culinary traditions to America as president and introduced lighter, simpler banquets compared to rich European styles at the time.

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0% found this document useful (0 votes)
75 views4 pages

Native American and Colonial Feasts

Native American tribes such as those in the American Northwest held ceremonial feasts called potlatches to commemorate important events, where an abundance of food would be provided. Prior to the Revolutionary War, American cuisine was based on English customs and featured multi-course formal dinners. Thomas Jefferson brought French culinary traditions to America as president and introduced lighter, simpler banquets compared to rich European styles at the time.

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bshm third
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Native American Feasts

Feasting is an American ritual that can be traced back to several Native American
cultures' social ceremonies. Early written records by naturalists and explorers like John
Bartram and George Catlin provide a unique peek into Native American tribes' usage of
food in ceremonies. Tribes in the American Northwest held a potlatch, a ceremonial
feast, to commemorate important events. The rules of potlatch required the host to
provide, as a sign of conspicuous wealth, the best-quality foods available in quantities
too great to be eaten by the number of invited guests.

The Colonial Period

Prior to the Revolutionary War, pre-revolutionary American cuisine and meal patterns
were mostly based on English custom. Figure 1.10 shows the formal dinner menu
layout, which consisted of two courses, each of which represented a whole meal. Figure
1.10 depicts a banquet supper similar to those offered in affluent merchants' homes in
Providence, Rhode Island, in the early 1700s. General Nathaniel Greene wrote to
General James Varnum of his visit to Philadelphia in 1779:
In the South during the same period, a dinner at Shirley Hall plantation in Virginia was
described:

His service is all of silver and you drink your porter out of silver goblets. The finest
Virginia hams, and the saddle of mutton, Turkey, then canvas back duck, beef, oysters.
Then comes the sparkling champagne, after that dessert, plum pudding, tarts, ice
cream, peaches preserved in Brandy . . . then the table is cleared and on comes the
figs, almonds and raisins, and the richest Madeira, the best Port, and the softest
Malmsey wine I ever tasted.

FIRST COURSE
Asparagus Soup, remove*
Leg of Grass Lamb boiled with capers,
carrots, and turnips
Boiled Potato Pudding
Venison Pasties
Rice Pellaw
Forced Cock’s Combs
.,
SECOND COURSE
White Fricassee of Rabbit
Salamagundi
Ragoo of French Beans with Carrot Force
Water-Soakey
Pear Pie
.,
Followed by
Cheese and Grapes
*“Remove” indicates that the soup tureen was removed after the soup course
and replaced by the meat platters.
Figure 1.10 ,
A DINNER FOR JUNE, 1700s
(Source: The Rhode Island Historical Society, Providence, Rhode Island)

Nineteenth-Century Banqueting

The rich table traditions of the American colonies were continued in menus such as that
shown in Figure 1.11, served in December 1884 at the Fifth Annual Ball and Game
Supper in East Wallingford, Connecticut. The variety of Native American foods and
traditional New England cooking is apparent in this menu, even as it follows the
classical menu format. Although heavy in the dessert section, the influence of the
three-course menu is still evident in the presence of the relish course and the fruits and
nuts in the dessert course.

OYSTERS
Escalloped Stewed Raw
.,
GAME
Mallard Duck with Currant Jelly Saddle of Venison Roast Bear with Cranberry Sauce
Red Head Duck with Confiture Wild Turkey Oyster Dressing
Broiled Partridge Roast Wild Goose with Raspberry Jelly Quail on Toast
.,
ENTRÉES
Chicken Ham Corned Beef Lobster Chicken Salad Lobster Salad
.,
RELISHES
Chow Chow Pickled Cucumbers Mixed Pickles Worcestershire Sauce
Spiced Onions Tomato Catsup French Mustard Olives Celery Lettuce
.,
BREAD
Wheat Bread Brown Bread Graham Bread
.,
PASTRY
Apple Pie Meat Pie Cranberry Pie Lemon Pie
Blueberry Pie Raspberry Pie
.,
CAKES AND PRESERVES
Fruit Cake Sponge Cake Gold Cake Currant Cake Coconut Cake
Jelly Cake Delicate Cake Chocolate Cake Ribbon Cake
Cup Cake Peach Preserves Quince Preserves Raspberry Preserves
.,
DESSERTS
Vanilla Ice Cream Lemon Ice Cream
Grapes Apples Oranges Layer Raisins Filberts
English Walnuts Pecan Nuts Soft Shell Almonds
Figure 1.11 ,
BALL AND GAME SUPPER, 1884

American Presidential Banqueting

George Washington's presidency provided America with the opportunity to amuse the
rest of the globe. Meals were served in a three-course arrangement, which was typical
in Europe at the time. Decanters of port, cheeses, nuts, and fruit were placed on the
table. Menus from the period indicate the diversity and availability of food products in
the mid-Atlantic region as well as Washington’s eagerness to present them to his
guests.

The food served at the President’s table from 1789 to the end of Washington’s second
term in 1797 indicates the new nation’s dependence on the land. Game fowl, meats,
plantation-grown fruits and vegetables, fish from local rivers or the Atlantic reveal the
abundance of the land. Spliced through the menus are the remnants of Washington’s
English heritage—puddings, cream trifles, a taste for port and wine.

The development of banqueting styles in America was strongly influenced by Thomas


Jefferson. Following his years as minister plenipotentiary to Louis XVI's court, Jefferson
brought many of the European table's traditions, delicacies, and wines to his Virginia
estate, Monticello. As president of the United States, Jefferson developed a tradition of
exquisite feasts incorporating French food.

Never before had such dinners been given in the President’s house, nor such a variety
of the finest and most costly wines. In his entertainments, republican simplicity was
united with epicurean delicacy; while the absence of splendor, ornament, and profusion
was more than compensated by the neatness, order, and elegant simplicity that
pervaded the whole establishment.

A total of 40 dinners were served to 564 visitors between November 5, 1804, and
February 22, 1805, according to a report. Cuisine bourgeois was the name given to the
banqueting style introduced by Jefferson to America, which was a simplification of the
heavy, three-course banquets popular in Europe throughout the eighteenth century.

Gazpacho
Tio Pepe Sherry
Hot Devil’s Crab
Roast Leg of Lamb, conserve of currants
Chateau Latour
Saffron Rice Green Peas with Mint Corn Pudding
Asparagus Vinaigrette
Montrachet
Cheese Mold Beaten Biscuits
Strawberry Meringues Chantilly
Pedro Ximenz
Nuts and Candied Fruits
Coffee Brandy
Figure 1.14 ,
JEFFERSON MENU
(Source: Rysavy and Leighton, A Treasury of White House Cooking, 1972, p. 184)

These adjustments, like the novelle cuisine adaptations to French cuisine in the
twentieth century, were a reaction to the rich stocks, sauces, and theatrical pieces
montées of the eighteenth century. This cuisine suited Jefferson's taste for understated
elegance.

Ice cream, vanilla, pasta, and tomatoes were among Jefferson's culinary contributions
to the United States. Vanilla flavour was a novel component in American cooking, first
appearing in Jefferson's recipe for vanilla ice cream. In Jefferson's notes, pasta is
referred to as macaroni, which is today known as tubular pasta. However, further inquiry
reveals that he was referring to the spaghetti pasta cut. Meanwhile, the tomato was
brought from Central America and popularized in Southern Europe. Jefferson returned
to Monticello with the fruit and seeds for cultivation.

Jefferson's interest in French cuisine extended to the cookware and bakeware needed
to prepare and serve it, and he bought a huge quantity of cookware and bakeware in
Paris. The following inventory was recorded to the plantation books upon his return to
Monticello from France:

silver service
pewterware
dishes for hors d’oeuvre
porcelain cups
saucers
plates
soup tureens and bowls
serving platters and casseroles
crystal goblets
wine tumblers
decanters
a tea urn and coffee pot

For the kitchen, he included:


28 round saucepans
19 saucepan covers
frying pans
food warmers
chocolate molds
ice molds
pie pans
spoons, ladles
cleavers, knives
pair of kitchen scales

Common questions

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The banquet menus from the 1700s and 1884 illustrate socio-cultural shifts in American dining practices. In the 1700s, dining reflected English traditions with structured two-course meals featuring elaborate dishes and an abundance of luxury items like silver service and fine wines . By 1884, as seen in the Ball and Game Supper menu, American dining had incorporated a wider variety of influences, reflecting New England's adaptation of Native American foods and a richer dessert section . The emphasis shifted from merely showcasing wealth to celebrating regional and seasonal abundance, highlighting a broader American culinary identity .

The banqueting style introduced by Thomas Jefferson, known as cuisine bourgeois, was a clear reaction to the rich and elaborate European culinary trends of his time. Jefferson rejected the heavy, three-course meals typical in Europe, opting instead for understated elegance and simplified sophistication . This shift was in parallel with the nouvelle cuisine movement in France, which aimed to simplify French cooking from the extravagant eighteenth-century norms . Jefferson’s menus reflected a desire for clarity of flavor, emphasis on quality ingredients, and presentation over excessive opulence .

Thomas Jefferson's time in France profoundly influenced American culinary practices, evident in his introduction of European table traditions, delicacies, and fine wines to the U.S. . He incorporated French dishes and simplicity into American banquets, reducing the complexity found in traditional European three-course meals. This adaptation, known as cuisine bourgeois, emphasized 'republican simplicity' with elegant presentations devoid of excess . Jefferson also introduced novel ingredients like vanilla and pasta to the American palate, which were first seen in his vanilla ice cream and macaroni recipes .

The banquet style and culinary preferences at Thomas Jefferson's Monticello closely aligned with his philosophical views emphasizing simplicity, elegance, and Enlightenment ideals. His adoption of 'republican simplicity' in cuisine, marked by the straightforward elegance of cuisine bourgeois, mirrored his commitment to democratic ideals and understated luxury . This approach was part of a broader Enlightenment perspective that valued rationality, which Jefferson embraced through the cultivation of diverse ingredients and careful presentation, rather than excessive opulence, reflecting his belief in the power of reasoned refinement over aristocratic extravagance .

Native American ceremonial feasts, such as the potlatch practiced by tribes in the American Northwest, showcased conspicuous wealth and abundance, involving the host providing lavish amounts of high-quality food beyond what could be consumed by guests . This tradition influenced colonial American banqueting, where similar displays of lavishness, such as elaborate multi-course meals and rich assortments of food, were intended to display wealth and hospitality, as seen in the menus of affluent households and presidential banquets .

Formal dinners in pre-Revolutionary America primarily adhered to structured English customs, consisting of elaborate two-course meals where each course was a meal itself . These structures were defined by the display of wealth through varieties of luxurious foods and drinks, similar to how Native American feasts like potlatches symbolized social status and wealth through copious quantities of high-quality foods . However, the purpose differed slightly; colonial feasts were more focused on sophisticated culinary presentation inspired by English traditions, while Native American feasts were deeply embedded in cultural ceremonies and community interactions .

American presidential banqueting evolved significantly from the 18th to the 19th century, under the influence of George Washington and Thomas Jefferson. Washington's banquets were traditional, drawing heavily on English customs with multiple courses and an emphasis on the diversity of locally sourced foods . Jefferson, in contrast, infused French culinary elegance into American dining, simplifying complex multi-course meals into refined presentations known as cuisine bourgeois. His approach combined republican simplicity with epicurean delicacy, reflecting a departure from lavish extensive banquets to more sophisticated yet less ostentatious dining experiences .

The abundance of local resources played a crucial role in the variety of foods served at American presidential banquets. During George Washington's presidency, the diversity of food items showcased the country's dependency on local land and resources, including game fowl, meats, plantation-grown fruits and vegetables, and fish sourced from local rivers and the Atlantic . This local availability allowed for menus that highlighted regional culinary strengths and independence from more costly foreign imports, while still maintaining the influence of traditional English preferences, like puddings and port wines .

Thomas Jefferson introduced several culinary innovations to the United States that reflected his personal tastes and experiences in France. His contributions included vanilla, which first appeared in his vanilla ice cream recipe, and pasta, particularly the tubular form he referred to as macaroni . Additionally, Jefferson popularized tomatoes, bringing them from Southern Europe to be cultivated in America . He appreciated understated elegance, which was reflected in the novel simplicity of his cuisine contrasting with the opulence of European practices he observed during his time as minister plenipotentiary .

During the colonial period, food presentation in formal American dinners signified social status and wealth through meticulous menu planning and serving rituals aligned with English customs. The inclusion of luxurious services like silver goblets and elaborate dish sequences, such as those at Shirley Hall plantation, highlighted the host's wealth and social position . The intricate arrangements of food, dessert, and beverages during formal events served as a platform to demonstrate the host's affluence and sophistication, much like the Native American potlatches that emphasized public displays of wealth .

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