4 Point Fabric Inspection Guidelines
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4 Point Inspection
► A widely recognized inspection method frequently used
in the textile industry.
► It is a technique issued by the American Society for
Testing & Materials with reference to the designation ASTM
D5 430-93
► Start the frame and inspect for defects. Run the frame at
20 ± 5 yards per minute (18 ± 5 meters per minute).
► If a defect is observed:
● Faults are classified and scored with penalty points of
1, 2, 3 and 4, according to their size and significance.
● Each defect should be counted as a separate defect
even if the nature is the same and then based on the
points allocated to each defect, total points should be
calculated.
Vertical Defects Horizontal Defects
(along the length) (along the width)
Length Points Length Points
0.1 to 3.0 in (0.1 to 8.0 cm) 1 0.1 to 3.0 in (0.1 to 8.0 cm) 1
3.1 to 6.0 in (8.1 to 15.0 cm) 2 3.1 to 6.0 in (8.1 to 15.0 cm) 2
6.1 to 9.0 in(15.1 to 23.0 cm) 3 6.1 to 9.0 in (15.1 to 23.0 cm) 3
9.1 to 36.0 in (23.1 to 92.0 cm) 4 9.1 to full width (above 23.1 cm) 4
► Note:
● A maximum of 4 points may be assigned to any one
linear yard), regardless of the number or size of the
individual defects.
● For a continuous lengthwise running defect, 4 points
and 1 defect will be assigned to each linear yard where
the defect exceeds 9 inches (23 centimeters).
► Example: barre effect on the full roll in 100linear yards:
400 points should be assigned with 100 defects
► So if the acceptance criteria are 40 points / 100 yd2,
then this roll is acceptable.
► The maximum number of defect points to be counted
against any one linear yard is 4 points.
► Overall, fabric quality is assessed on the basis of the
number of defect points per 100 yd2 of fabric.
Inspection Results
► Complete the worksheet and calculate the total points of
each inspected roll and the total of the inspected linear
yards/meters. With this information use the appropriate
formula below to calculate the Average Points (per 100
linear yards or linear meters).
Total Points of inspected roll
Average Points/100 linear yds = X 100
Total Inspected Yards
Total Points of inspected roll
Average Points/100 linear mts = X 100
Total Inspected Meters
► All textiles are evaluated on a square meter
computation. The formula used to determine the point
count level of a roll of fabric is as follows.
Total Points x 10,000 _________ = Points per 100m2
Inspected meters x Cuttable Fabric Width (cm)
► The penalty points total is divided by the product of the
meters inspected then multiplied by the cuttable width in
centimeters. Multiply the result by 10,000 in order to
calculate the shipment point count per 100 square meters.
► The linear meter points total is divided by the product of
the inspected meters then multiplied by the cuttable width
in centimeters. Multiply the result by 10, 000 in order to
calculate the shipment point count per 100square meters.
Total Linear Meter Points x 10,000 _________= Shipment Points per 100 m2
Total Inspected Meters x Cuttable Width (cm)
► Individual rolls with penalty point count levels exceeding
the stated requirements of the classified group are rejected.
They are graded as second quality and may not be shipped
unless otherwise directed by the buyer.
► Shipment fails the inspection if the shipment penalty
point count exceeds the specified point count level or, if
more than 10% of the total shipment audited is graded as
second quality.
► Shipment Lot Size
Per Color way (meters) Inspection Quantity (meters) Percentage
1-2,500 500 20%
2,501-5,000 251-500 10%
5,001-20,000 400-1,600 8%
20,001- 30,000 1,200-1,800 6%
30,001-50,000 1,200-2,000 4%
► Penalty Point Table
Acceptance Criteria for 100 sq. meters of fabric
Individual Roll Total Shipment
Group Maximum Penalty Points in Maximum Average Penalty
a roll per 100 sq. meters Points of Shipment per 100
sq. meters
One 18 points 14 points.
Two 24 points 19 points
Three 30 points 24 points
Four 48 points 38 points
Fabric Group Classifications
► Group One
● All synthetics (polyster/nylon/acetate)
● Basic denims (open end spun)> 12 oz sq. yards
● Dress shirtings > 50/1
● Filament rayons
● Twills (Imported)
● Worsted Spun
Fabric Group Classifications
► Group Two
● Basic denims (ring spun) > 12 oz [Link]
● Basic knitted fabrics
● Canvas
● Carded fabrics
● Lightweight denim > 4 oz < 8 oz [Link]
● Midweight denims > 9 or < 12 oz sq. yards
● Poplin/oxford/gingham shirting > 32/1, < 50/1
● Spun rayons (Viscose)
● Woolen spun
● Twills (Indian)
Fabric Group Classifications
► Group Three
● All specialty fabrics ( jacquard / seersucker / dobby /
sateen)
● Chambray/indigo yarn dyes
● Coated fabrics with wax, oil,
● Corduroy
● Flannel
● Fleece
● Cotton- synthetic blends
● Silk Fabrics (except Indian silk and Dupioni)
● Knitted and woven stretch fabrics, i.e., stretch twill
● Velvet
Fabric Group Classifications
► Group Four
● Dupioni silk
● Indian “Madras” (hand dyed-power/hand loom)
● Indian Silk
● Linen and Linen blends
● Muslin
● Patchwork
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