chapter Form = Measurements and Figure AnalysisTo measure accurately, you must know where the landmarks are and identify therm paint to point for specific Iocations. The following landmarks identify the parts of the form that are referred to whem mea- suring from one landmark to another. Numbers refer ta both the front and back wherever indicated. Personal fit. The instruction applies ta models that will be measured for drafting the basic patterns. ROLLER WHEELS — HEGHT PEDAL Center frant neck Center back neck Center front waist Center back waist Bust points (Center front bust level (between bust points) Side front (princess) Side back (princess) Mitarmbale front Midharmbale back (at Ievel with plate screw) Shoulder tip Shoulder af neck (shoulder/meck) Armbole ridge or roll fine Plate screw | Armbole plate Symbol Key CF © Genter front CB» Center back Bust point SILTIP = Shoulder tipBeene FORM ND MODEL Forms are sometimes imperfect, with measurements not always equal on each side of the center. Check and remark the side seams if necesary: The shoulder line may be misplaced, causing a sleeve to hang cut nf alignment. (This problem is corrected at the time nf the fitting.» Drafting depends on measurements taken from, a form of model. Messurement must be taken care- fully to avoid fitting problems. Record mearuremets on the Form or Motel Measurement Chart found im the back of the text. The [Link] be removed for duplication. Personal measurements. Reference to personal fit (shimen in itaticst wall accompany some of the in- structions, Preparing the Form for Measuring Figure 1 1 Than bridge: Cut otip of cloth 1 1/2 % 26 inches Fold edget to center and fold again. Place acrows bust points, ending 1 inch past the side seam. TNkh pine Whrough to secure. Trim unrended Jength. Thruet pine through bust paints. Mark enter Hine, + Wisiniine Replace wanthine tape, damaged. Figure 2 Tihs: Thaw pie thsouh sheuidle tip at the ridge, of roll line, mid-armbole at level with the plate screw, and 4/8 inch below the enter frat exh, Figure 3 + Anmbale depth chart: Ta locate armbale depth, choose the measurement from the Armhole ‘Depth Chart below that corresponds to the korrst size. Measure down from the armhole plate arid. ‘thrust a pin head al the location. Grade up or down by 1/8 inch for smaller or Larger sizes Ax ‘with establishing a set of measurements, they are to he test fitted with aleve attached Make ad justments if mecessary, Sire 3743/8" Sine 113)" Sire S638" Sine 1301 Sie JRE Sime L361 Sire 91/8" Size 1811/4" Ta determine cap height, measure up from arm. hole depth to thoulder tip and add 3/8 inch.32 Chapter 2 Preparing the Model for Measuring: Have a friend axis! in measuring and recording on a copy of the Personal Measurement Chart, page 36, The model should wear a bodysuit or kutond with regular foundation garments wom underneath, Figures 10, b Marking the garment: Lay garment Flat. Draw a line down the center front and back with tailor’s chalk, of Fine-point washable pen. Figures 20... Neckline: Dot mark center of the clavicle bone at centet front and the dominant bone (nape) at cen tet hack heck. To complete the neckline shape, place a delicate chain necklace around the madel's iieck, touching det marks. Carefully draw neckline curve with a fitie-ppoint washable pen. Figures [Link] Diesslng the aradt: The front chatk line is placed bee tyeoon the burts, navel, and crotch. The back chalk Hine Is contered ‘slong the sane line, crease of the Hurtorks, atid betteren the Ings. The fren arid Back models (I and g) ate mated, 34 bellow Cunupleting neckline: With rulet placed at the center Tinos and tothe dot marks of clavicle and nape, drave center Hines to neck, With ruler on sloulder seam, draw line te peck fe). Midanmbotes: With armeto the sides, mark the ence af grease line with does, oe with staigh! pine ereneed, Annhile depth; Place finger under the arm where back muscle and arteculate. (Chalk-mark at bot- tom of the finger ai side seam (i). Blast bridge: See page U1, Figure 1 for instructions, Witiitine bund Pace a belt, elastic, ar band com. fortably {ot too tight) around the waist Figure 1 FRONT aAcK thFORM MEASUREMENTS AND GURE ANALYSS 33 Taking Measurements Figure 1 Fgaed Foe i BACK FRONT DE + Place the metal tip end of the tape measure at one reference point and. extend to the next reference point when taking measurements. + Record [Link] the Model ‘Measurement (Form or Chart or the Personal Measurement Chart found at the back of the text). «Numbers in parentheses cone spond with those on the chart. + Arc measurements are taken form. center Hines to the side searm. The some hall of the front and back ‘of the form is measured. JORIZONTAL LINE (HBL) Figures 1,2.0na 3 ‘Meamire up from the fioot to the pin thark (M) al otter front (Figute 1h «Use thit meacurement to mearute sage Fre floxtand pin mark err terback and aide seams. Pin math at princess lines, Recheck mesure. ments (Figures E and 3, ‘Draw a line around the hip tewshing each of the Pin Maths, of wie adheuwe tape to mark the hhipling, The standasd bap depth ia 6 to 7 Lnchee down from the center from! waist fer junior and Petites, Who 9 backers down for missy size, Peronal ft, Follow the instructions very carefully and double check, If incorrect, the hemline af the kirt will not hang parallel with the floor, IMFERENCE FOR FORM AND MODEL MEASUREMENTS Figures dongs + Bust (1). Across bust points and back. © Waist 2), Around waist. Abdomen (5) Three inches below waist. Hip (4), Measure widest area with tape porallel with floor. Pin to mark hip level at center front (refersed to ax X-point|.34 Chapter 2 ORIZONTAL ARC FOR M AND MODEL IEASUREMENTS Front Figure & 8 Across shovider (14). Shoulder tip te center front neck. + Agus chest (15). Center front to 1 inch above [Link] (pinhead mark). © Bust arc (17) Center front, over bust point, end- ing Z inches below armplate at side seam. + Bust shan (20), Place tape across bust points; di- vide in hall fot meavurement. + Waist are (191. Center fromt waist to side waist scam. + Dart pilacoment (20. Center front to side front {peincess line}. * Abdorem arc (22). Center front toside seam, sart- ing 3 inches down from waist. Miparc¢24). Genter tront to sice seam on HBL line. Hip depth (25), Centet front to MBL kine, Fqueé Back Figure 7 Bock meck (12), Center back neck to shoukder at neck. © Acruss shoulder (141. Shoulder lip to center back neck. Acrass back (765). Center back to I inch above the mid-acmbhole at ridge of pinhead. Ack arc (78). Center back to bottom af arm plate. Wirt are (79). Center back waist to side waist seam. © Dart placement (20). Center back waist to side back (princess line! Alsdomen arc (222. Center back to side scam, atart- ing J inches down From waist. Hipp are (23). Centet back to side seam on HBL line, Hip deptir (25). Cemtet back waist to HBL line. Model for Personal Fit Pures ba.b Fgure Ob Figure Ba Measurements can be taken scrnas the mociel from ome landmark tothe othes, then divided in hall and recorded. Ifthe centes lines of the front and back are definitely centered, meas. ure from the center line ta the side seams of the front and back bodice. Neck Circumference Measure around the upper neck, divide by 5, and record in space #12.MEASUREMENTS FORM AND MODEL Figures 9 ont 19 Side dength (191. Pin mark below armplate at side seam to side waist. + Shoulder length (13). Shoulder tip to neck 1 Side hip depth (26). Side waist to HBL, on side of fomn being measured. = Bust rutivs (9), Measure from bust point ending ‘under bust mound toib above. Front and Back—Form and Model Foret 12.13. 1d (Center fengthr ($1. Mark neck to waist lovet bridge). + Fill length (6). Waist to shoulder at meck, parallel with center lines. + Shoulder slope (7k. Center line at waist to the shoulder tip (rmarkh. © Ruvt deputs (9), Shoulder tip to bust point, Fque 11 Fegpare 13 FORM MEASUREMENTS AND IGURE ANALYSS 35 (se (i Personal Fit Asymmetric Verification Sheufier slope: Measure on Fight and beft sides. IF the slope measurements differ more than an 1/4 inch, the shoulder are arymmetric. Side rip: Measute both side (see #26), if measure. ments differ mite that 1/8 inch, the hip is arymmet- tig, The patterns will be drafted on fokled paper and ixcused later. ure 15 and 16: New Strap jaasurement Mave metal tip af the eneasureng tape at corner of ahcnikdet/neck ta bottom of the wait band at the shite seam andl recerd, Faure UdStandard Measurement Chart CRCUMFERENCE ‘MEASUREMENTS (ase noe inca 1 hae 2 Wait 3. Abaomens 4. Hip: TPFER TORSO 3. Ghenes kent: Fro ck & Full ngite Fron xk 77. Shoulder slope: Fron Tack “2 Seu ap 3 Roe depth: Radia 30, Banyan 11 sie dente 12. Rack week: 1, Souter aap: 14, Arrom shower, TOW ToRwr BA Abedemerl ial kek El tip ans Fron HH Coon dap 3%, Hip dope Caos te Cones bac, 35, Side nip depen: A Wain eke: ae Bcpledn. Uppor unyn: ‘Mba etign knw amr Anke: Foo enury: BRE B 8 tery patter ave meatier percent Same meanest pateratale comDrafting the Basic = Faoter > Patiern Set pm ADJUSTING SLEEVE TO ARMHOUE OF BODICE Determining Cop Ear. . es ‘Adjusting the Aimbole to Accommodate Cop Eos... Incraces cf Decreces He Biceps . Increcee oF Decreaee Cop Fone Belting the Sleeve into the Armhcke . Evolate he Hang and Ft of fhe Sirewe SEAMLESS WORKING PAITERNS. ‘COMPLETING THE PATTERN Patter formation BREE RRERRRE Be Seam Alowance Banic Pattern Ser34° Chapters BASIC DRESS INDATION Intreduction to patternmaking begins with the draft nf the basic dress foundation. The dress has all the key dimensions of the form and is represented by the ba- sic pattern set. The basic drew is the very foundation parts a front and hack bodice feat and back sist that hang straight from the hip, and slirm full-length sleeves, The dress follows the model's outermost farts without contouring the hollow areas. The hess hax a series of seams that are directed towrand the figure's bulges—the bust, abfomen, buttocks, shoulder blades, and elbows These seams are the wedge shapes in the draft of the basic pattern set thal, when stitched, support the fit of the garment and bridge the hollow atem. The perfect garment ‘will Fit comfortably with sufficient ease and in per- fect balance and harmony with the balance of the model's stance. Measurement ‘The draft can be developed from measurements Jaken of the form and frconded off the Model Mea suteinien! Chart, of mrasutements can be taker from the Siandard Measurement Chart ot from per: sonal fit measurements, For easy fefetence, tevord fin the wpaces pre visled it (he chart) the measurements by the nut bor in parcatheses given in the instructions Numbers correspond wath those of the charts, Let ters used in the dnsitractions give the detection that each line ib te be drawn, For example, it to C meant that the line is drawn from poine Bite paint C,in the amount indicated by the instructions, A shaded out. line of the patiern itustates the purpote of each line drawn on the draft, Suggestions for comecting Greing problems fal low the instructions for drafting the bodice, the skirt, and the sleeve. To complete the patterns, see pages 66 and 67,Creating Basic Pattems Creating basic pattems begins with a twodimen- sional piece of paper (for drafting) or muslin (fardrap- ing). The dimensions of the form or model takes up the necessary space within the paper or muslin, giv- ing shape to the basic patterns. The remaining paper ‘or cloth is cut away (Figure 1). Pattem Shopes Described Potters confine the dimensions of the figure by a series of straight lines (shoulder, side seams, skirt— below hip) and curved lines tnecklines, armholes, skirl—above hip). Wedges that appear at the pat- tern's edge are directed to the apex of the bust, shoulder blade, abdomen, and buttork. Wedyes are called darts (Figure Zp. The basic sleeve will be dis- cussed later. Why Darts? Datls fetal form of model meaniterents bry contin. ing whheeded fullners af the patteray’s edge. The dart itadually releases fullness and terminates at of near the apes of the burt, shoulder blades, buttocks, and abdomen, The dart also hos creative vahoe, ay will be illustrated Latet det Ue et. Wis Mar shart Mort corrty of eaienrvisional patient eo at éferelememsionial ivan, Manual end Computer Drafting Both manual and computer drafting methods are offered for deweloping the basic patieen set, Knowing both method gives the patternmaker more options im generating patterns The computer methad # illustrated on the DVD, where a link is provided.40 Chapters [FRONT BODICE DRAFT Record chosen im the spaces pro. vided below. For models with asymmetric shoulders andior hips, draft on folded paper using measure- ments for the high side. After the draft, the pattern is cut and the low side is corrected. Tab page 5 for pattern adjustments, ine: AD poem sires oan be portased Send quest 19 [Link], The standard draft is based om a mimy dress form with about a [Link] difference between the swaist and bust (B cup) for all sizes. For a personal fit, subtract the waist from bust, iff more or less than 10 inches (tolerance 1/4 inchl, follow the formula suggestion, Figure 1 © Ato B= Tull bength (6), plas 1/0 ‘Draw the line and label, « Ate © = Acrem shewlder, fee 1/5 (14} Seuare ¥ line down from C kine. 4+ Beko D- Center frent keazth Mark and mjuate out 4°. + BeoE = Bast are (17), plas 47 SMIMAFe aI Croom Band thers seqeare Ups LT Frm E" Figure 2 © Bie G «Shoulder dope (7), plus 1/1 G touches C tine, © Glo tts Bast depth ‘Mark on the G-B kine, * Glo Shoulder Sength (L)__. Square down from Liainterect with D fine, + to K = Bust span, plas 1/4410) Square from J at-centes front through H to K, + Thte La One-half of D ta J. Mark dawn from D- « LtoM = Acrescchest, plas 1/4 (15) Squares guideline up and down from M. + BtoF=Dart placement (70) Square down 1/16" from FE. "faye: Tall 1/2 ict ac Bao eve whe sce eam Brawn,+ Nie O = Side length (11) © Nto P = Mark 1 1/4 inch out from N_ Ferzonal fit, sc formula ec adjust after the draft is complete. Tab page 44. + Oto P Side length Fine isdirected to P, and ends when equal ta Nte-O. Draw Eine from F to F. Figure Compteting waist messarcmert: «© Fito = Waist arc (19), plas 1/4" ease, bese Bler Dart legs: Drave a line from K to Fand measure. Draw dart leg ftom K thtough Q equal to K to F. Label R. Dart point: Center a point $8 inch from bust paint, Redraw dart legs from this point to Fand R. Draw slight curved lines from Bto Fand Bite P, ‘gure 4 Figure 5: Annbele: Draw armhole curve with rule touching GM, and square fine. Do not follow curve past square line. Neckline: Draw curve from Ito D passing inside the angle line by 1/6" DRAFTING THE BASIC FAITERN SET 47 Beal Cup Formula: Test TH ep: Na 7h" D Cape Nate Laz" 1 Cape NA De Tor additional information, see page 44, (Continue with imtruction O.P.42 Chapters [BACK BODICE DRAFT Figure 6 « AtoB-Fulllength(s) - + Ato C- Across shoulder (14) Square 3 inches down from + BtoD-Cemterback lemgth (5) Mark and square out 4 inches. «BtoB = Back arc (18), plus 3/4 inch é Square up from E. quia? wa al E Fe Back mock (127), plus 1/8 bach I) te G = Shoulder slope (7), plas 1/8 inch F to B = Shoulder length (13), plas 1/2 Inch . Line may pass G, Square dawn tram F te 0) line. Bi ta = Dagt placement (70) : B ta J = Walet arc (29), plas dart Intake of L 1/2" and 1/4" (eae). (Junior/petite sizer: add Tinch dart intake, plus 1/4inch ease} [ko = Dart intake. Mark center and labelFigure 6 +) J to M = Squaredown 3/16 inch. + Mite N = Side bemgth (11) +L to 0 = Square up from LI inch less than M to nN. Draw dart legs froma ©, 1/8 inch past Tand K Dicaw slightly curved lines from Ki to Sf and From, Btol. Figure? : DRAFTING THE BASIC FAITERN SET 43 Fouree F {ee | GrH rguiee oF fie P= Gnechall of F to, Mask. + Plo Qe Diaw a Linch line i the ditection of polit 0 (indicated by broken linet. © BtoB 1/4 inch, Mark, Draw dart beg from Q: 18 inch past Rand con- Hest 1a F; Mark 14 inch fron ft (raw onber daet ke from (Q equal bo dart leg QR. and conseet bo HL D105 = One-fourth of D to B Mark, Sta T= Across back, plas 1/4 inch (16) Square up and down from T, aa chown, Fgura 10 © Avnlode; Draw armhole with the French curve touching HT, and SN. The curve should touch sqquare line. Neckline: Draw a 1/8-inch angle line from the car- ner, Drow neckline from F, angle line and ending close te TF. ‘To test fit, add seams to muslin, see pages 44 and 45.44 Chapters Increasing and Decreasing Bust Foust The bodice is drafted with a B cup. The pattem can be adjusted for bust cup sixes A.C, D, and DD for personal fit. Test fit and, if mecemazy, adjust again; “ see Figures d and S. Figure 1 © Drawa line from dart point to bust point and to but not through mid-armhole. Figure 2 Figure 2 ¢,[Link] Cup Spread at bust point as follows: * Cup = 3/8 inch, + D Cup = 3/4 inch. * DDCups 1 inch. «Center bust point. © Longthen dant feg A to be equal to B. Figure 3 ACUp + Qyeilap bust point 3/8 inch. Tape. + Center bust print. 4 Shorten dart leg A to tree wit [FITTING THE BODICE Cut and sew the bodice. Frea without steam. Place on form or model toanalyre the fit, Always meauire sorrevtedd afrak stl adjunt the patterns, Pegquia & - Tighter: Strew folds radiating from bust Slash Figure 4 sivisliry resin waist te beast, and spread te give bust Lonenere: Pin exceus at bust fo-zeroatahaukler and sufficient rowan, weal Fque4DRAFTING THE BASIC FAITERN SET 45 Pattem Correction for Figure Te Asymmetrical Models _ Madel (a) with high/low shoulders, ‘Madel (b} with bighflow hips, Corrections; Unfold the pattern: bodice {c) or Sash, skirt (d). Slash from low side to high side. Overlap ee recorded amount, mend, blend, and test. Faure la - Figure td wend bath ovarian fond blend row sige) —» 7 Pouitte solutione Lift muslin at shoulder tip, lower dart print, o check waitline meanire- ments and seljust side waist, f requiced. Correct the pattem by trimming the adjusted Iipunt at shoulder tip te eto at neck. Pogues 3.6 © Front or back swings away from the center tine, ee "8 Poulble solutions: Add musdin at shaubler tip, Impertect Alignment check walttine meaustements and adist side Figures 2a. walal, If required. biti back bodice overlaps center tine of the Correct the pattern thy ackding the scjunted mount at shoulder tip to eto at neck, Fque2a Figue Sa aS Unpin end tower fs Raita shoulder Pore,44 Chapters [FIMING THE NECKLINE If the front oc back neckline is too loose (more than. 18 inch) (Figure 421, open the shoulder and smooth the fabricto St. Mark the muslin and adjust the length of the shoulder. Hf stress appears at the shoulder/neck (Figure $b), open the shoulder. Fit the muslin to the meckline fallow 1/Sinch ease). Mark the neckline and adjust the shoulder length, if necessary. Figue do [FITTING THE ARMHOLE A [Link] shore depends on the accurate shape ef the arinbole and the correct placement of the thoulder and ude seam of the form. A wellshaped attnbole fits sinaathly over the shoulder and falls away erenly trom the lower part fal the aritole plate, andl the side seam ix sligeted velth that of the form, There fr mo appearance of sites newer gapping, Sor Figure $a, H the armilsede et the beatice bt kbentified with cane of the examples, fallow the suggested adjst- ment and make corrections ta the pattern, Gap Above Front Mic-Armhola: Figures Sab The fit problem is shown in Figure Sa. + Release thoulder seam and amooth exces over the shoulder. Pim and mark adjusted shoulder (Figure Shi. Gop Above Bock Mid-Anmhole: Figures 60D «The fit problem is shown in Figure 6a. + Release shoulder seam and smooth excess over the shoulder. Pin and mark adjusted shoulder ‘Figure 6). Figuie do Reppert StDRAFTING THE BASIC FAITERN SET AT Gap Below Front Mic-Armhole: Figure 7a Fgve Te (Gaping is caused by unbalanced side seams.) Figures 7a, bc [ ©) The fit problem ix shown in Figure 7a. «© Pin the excess, allowing linc ease (Figure 7b). * Slash the pattern from midanmbole ta bust point and from dart point to bust point. Overlap the pattem equal fo the amount pinned at the armhole. Tape to secure (Figure Tel. Figures Bo, b oO If the armhole is too tight at the front armhole (Figure 8a), slash and spread 1/4 inch (Figure 4b). Figue 7c Figure a Figute Pa Figure Gap Below Bock Mid-Armhole: (Gaping is caned by unbalanced side urams.} Figures Pa, b The fit problem is shown in Figure 93, «Release side seam and smooth excess downward. Mark ride seam and be sure that 3/4-inch ease is included. Mark waistline. «Measure the distance between the armbole pin head and corrected muslim bor pattern correcting (Figure),43° Chapters [SKIRT DRAFT The basic skirt Foundation has several usex: asa ‘base for manipulation to create design pat- terns, combined with the bodice asa dress, asa skint to complete a suit, and asa separate basic akin. Two versions of the back skirt are given, Tn Type 1, the back darts are of equal intake and length. Type 2 has two [Link] unequal in- take and length. econ measurements from the Model Measurement Chart in the spaces provided. Persamal fit: Use the Fersomal Dart Jetake ‘Chart tw determine the umber of darts and dart intake for the skirt draft. Suberact the waist (2) fiver the hip mnasterement (41, Find the difference fo the mewest witole maraber in cetuneer 1. For madels hurving a sway Back mark one dart in Frrd, with all remaining excess talkcw wp by the drtck darts. Skirt Front and Back Fiore | + Ate Bo Skirt length (a1 dered). + Ato C= Center frant bip depth (25) « Atel = Back bip arc (23), plus 1/2 inch (ease) ‘Squared our from A, C, and Beqpual tA ts D, Draw center back tine F'ta B, Label E andl F + E to G = Center back hip depth (25) ‘Crostmark Jacation, + Ate H = Front hipare (2%), plus 1/2 inch tease) : Squared out from A, C, and B equal to A tol. * Drow center front line J to H. Label J and 1. Personal Dart Intake Chart ae 1: rch Difference fone 1 dant—1/2" intake. Back: 1 dart—3/4" intake. Sinch Difference Front: 1 dart—1/2" intake. Back: I dart—I" intake. Suimch Front: 1 dart—1/2" intake. Back: 7 darts—S/B" intake. Finch Difference Front: 1 dart—1/2" intake. Back: 2 darts—3/" intake. 8. or Suimchr Difference Front: 2-darts—3/8" intake. Back: ? darts—7/8" intake. ALi Difference Front: 2 darts—1/2" intake. Back: 2 darts—I" intake. Licht Difference Front: 2 datts—S/B" intake. Back: 2 dart—1 1/6" intake. 2 inch Difference Front: 2 darts—S/8" imake. Back: 2 darts—1 1/4" intake, 15. o 14-inch Difference Front: 2 dhatts—S/8" itviake. Back: 2 darts—1 3/6" intake. [Allow 4/8" ease at each quartet waist For 3darts at the back skirt, divide 2 1/4" inne thirds.) Frere) Center backFigure 2 Back: «Dito K - Back waist arc (19), plus 1/4 inch (ease), and add 2 inches for dart intake Personal fit; use dart intake from sare Part. * D te L- Dart placement (20) Mark first dart J inch from L ‘Mark dart space 11/4 inches and mark I inch for second dart. Square up and down fom K. Figred Figura 3 2 Cla P= Se hip depths (26) __ ‘Draw side seam curve using the shirt curve rule, Sif the rule Until the depeh measurement touches the front aad Bask gublelines Label and (. Fugues DRAFTING THE BASIC FAITERN SET 49 Front: © H to M — Front waist arc (19), plus 1/4 inch (ease), and add 1 inch for dart intake. 4 Persona fit; ase dart inde from dart chart * HtoN-Dart placement (20) Mark first dart 5/8 inch from N. Mark dart space 1 1/4 inches and mark 5/8 inch for second dart. Square up and down from M. Walstline: Exaw front and back waistline using the shallow end of the curve ruler from G to I thack) and fram 1 to} tfeent),50 Chapters Figure 4 +) Back darts: Locate centers of each dart intake, and square down 5 1/2 inches (3 inches for jun- iors and petites), Draw dart legs from chart pois to curve line of ‘the waist, Figured Skirt Back (for Suits and Separates) ‘Trae the akin back, Mark the corned of the dart ley hovel ta ceiiter baci, Ehasmet inctiide the dart intake (igure 8). Aithuse Dart frtake, «Mork fiest dart intake 1 1/2 inches Mark dart space } Wd inches Mark weconal dace intake 1/2 inch, Mark dan centers, Ute this meavurement from center back to mai dant points when draw- ing dart lege to lengil ay illustrated. True dart Jegs by adcting to the shomter leg. Mend ts the curve-of the waistline, + Complete the pattem and cut in fibric for a teu fil given on pages $1 and $2 Personal fit; adjust using your measurements. ‘Truc dart legs by adding to the shorter legs and blend to the curve of the waistline. © Front darts: Repeat the process with the dart legs U2 inches lang.Fitting the Skit Sew the skirt with along stitch, Press without steam and place on the form. The skirt may be critiqued separately ax illustrated or stitched to the bodice. ‘The following check points are guidesin analyz- ing the fit of a skirt. The waistlines of the bodice and. skirt must match and the darts that are closest ta the center of the garment should align with the princess ine. If not, check measurements and make correc. sions, Darts that appear with stress lines require that the darts be shortened. Darts ending with more than slight fullness require that the darts be stitched teva longer length. Adjust side seams if the skirt is tog tight or top koose. The hemline of a balanced skirt is parallel with the floor. Uf mot, follow the ex- amples below for suggestions in correcting the skirt and pattems. AWellBolonced Skirt Figures 10, 4 The skin sligna-with the center lines of the fott and hanya straight from the hip to the hemline, indicating thal the HBL line Gcfmsgrain) Ix par Jel with the floor (Figure 1a). The skirt stitched ke ‘the bodice it shown ity Figare Ib, imbalanced Skirt ures 20.0 Frobilom: The shirt overlaps the center line [Figure 23). A flate will appead at the center of the skirt (Hgure 21. Ponulisle camee: Heuuificient dart intake or ude Waid ineortectly marked, Check the lovation of the HIlL on tie dorm and the akiet draft Supaesled wilutinn; Raise the side walat until the kin aligns with the center line of the form, It may be necessary to nelease the side seams to correct the problesn, Increase dort intake, if necessary,$2 Chapters Figures a,b The skirt swings away from the center (Figure 3a}. The skirt will press against the thigh and move up the hipline when the wearer is walking (Fig- ure Ib). i 4 Problem: Excescive dart imtake or the side waist | incomectly marked. Check the location of the HBL on the form and the draft. + Suggested solution: Lower the side waist until the skirt aligns with the center line of the form: It may be necemuary to mebrase the side seams to. correct the problem. Decrease the dart intake, if reecessary. Circle true or fale, The armeen are on page HOS, 1. Darts conteol the fit of the TF 1. There are 12 mapar darts on the total hale garment bane bodice and slit, 2. Dari legs confine unneeded excen, Tr 14. fit not neccemary to recheck: © Adar bsthe mene'ai adding Tr Mmenwurements taken trom the form fullnen, ormendel, 4, Hodge darts do mot radiate from TR 1S. The armhale meswuteasent can Ihre baie, dletormiie the biceps, oping reMuts froen misplaced exces, TR 16, The armhole meswutement can & Astandard misy form hat 9.C-bust cup, TF Getermine the cap height, V7, Meamurements taken from a chart gustantee a pertcct fi 1B, The thoulder and side seam of the dorm qusrantess a perfect dleeve alignment. 19, The center cap notch stays at the 7, The J1BL, is parallel with the waist, TE A, Thecenter back wait lower thanthe TF center front waist. ® Rackdarteare always the same length = TE 10, Some ease is in the front armhole. TE in Hine. 11. Gapping is trimmed at the sears. TF 30, The front sleeve is kdentified by 12, Daris take up eacess uied by convex = TF two notches, shapes,"PREPARING PATTERNS TEST FIT Matching Joining Seams Place patterns with darts on top of patterns without darts at joining seams. Seams that do mot match (check measurement chart) are adjusted equally at each end and blended with scamline. Trueing Front and Back Bodice af Sitch Line Figure 1 + Place back pattern on top of front pattern {shaded areal, touching shoukfer/neck comers and mark dart location on front shoulder. Fgue | Match Figure 2 + Mave bark pattem so alist other dart leg touches mark on fiont ahoulder and pattern's sige, matching te shoulder tip. Adjust shoulder, If necessary, Fque? DRAFTING THE BASIC FAITERN SET 53 Figure 3 © Place side seams together, matching side at arm- hale and waist. Adjust side seam, if necessary. Figure 3 Match ade sear Truging Fron! and Back Skirt a + Place back and fret (shaded atea) shitts tngether al siches, Mates HTL frren Shit whom match ter tide wai and heen from the MEL. [fit sere net, Fechevk isl of Fevbesik square Iino on deat, If correct, adjust patterns shove aft belew the Hil. te true, Figuie 4 Maich side sears$4 Chapters Trusing Bodice with Skirt rare 6 Figure 5 Shift back Place center back of bodice to center back of skirt imarkel bodice with tics dt ego ir Se (shaded areal, matching stitchline to dart leg seams should match. Wf they do not, recheck Adjust dan, if needed. waistline measurements and adjust. Figure 5 Figure & 3 a } + Match Mart dor leg, Figure 7 Figura 7 Shift back pattem, matching other dart leg to dari leg of thin. Broken ne i akiet dart uncler- neath, Mark location of tart leg on buiclive, + Wart fe frit solar and hire (stot illasteatent,HE BASIC SLEEVE The basic sleeve is a mounted sleeve stitched to the basic bodice armhole. Asieve inte fit am am, which is one of the mast efficient and mobile parts of the human anatomy. The arm functions primarily in a forward motion but is capable of moving in every direction. This Menibility should be considered when testing the fit and comfort of the sleeve. The center grain of a wellfitted sleeve shuld, align with ot be slightly forward of the side seam of models having a perfect stance. The arms of models swith stooped shoulders tend to hang too far forward from the side seams. The arms of models with an up- Fight stance tend to hang too fat te the back from the side seams. In either case, the sbeeve should align ‘with the position of the relaxed arm without regard to alignment with the side seam. Sleeve Terminology Communicating in terms that ate familiar with Uhowe in design and production will bely be avciisl fnisundersianding when problem solving. Gralaline, Straight grain of the sleeve, whish in the ceailet of the sleeve from top of cap to etist lewel. Meepa level, Widest pat of the sleeve sividing cap fram the lawer sleeve. Sleeve cap. Curved top-of the sleeve above biceps ine, Cap helght, Distance trom biceps tr the bop at the graioline. Tlkew level, Placed at the articulation point of the arm, and the location of the ethew dart, ‘Wri bevel, Entry for the hand. Notehes, A notch at the top af the dleeve cap divices cap ease between front and back sleeve and armhole af the bodice, One notch identifies the front alceve, and twa notches Identify the back tleeve. Fase be- tins and ends at the front and back natches, Capea, Rangingim | 1/4 inchesto 1 1/2 inches (depending on size) between front and back noice,‘Cap ease of the basic sleeve cap is approximately 1 1/4to 1 1/2 inches for sizes [Link] above, and 1 1 ta 1 1d inches for sizes below 10. The Sleeve Mea- surement Chart provides measurements for the sleeve draft but does not necessarily guarantee the correct amount of cap ease because of cffferences in forms and personal fit model. To belp contral cap ease and. to avoid puckering, follow the *Armbhole Measurements” formala (Figures La, b, and cl. Other sleeve fitting problems that may develop can be resolved by referring to pages 61 through 64, Armmhole Measurement Figures 10.b, ond c ‘To measure the front and back armboles, wwe a thin, Hexible plastic rule held upright when measuring. (Do not use a measure tape.) Record measurements in spaceson the front and ‘back armholes of the pattern for future reference. © Measure front bodice armhole. Record © Measure back bodice armhole. Record © Add Measurements together. Record © Divide im half, add 1/4 inch. Record Record this measurements for your model sizein the space provided on the Sleeve Messurement Figwe Io Chart titled “Armbole measurement.” Fw In the sleeve draft, it is the A to E instructions. Bom rule Figure Ib [SLEEVE MEASUREMENT CHART rae r r a4 vy r & & 1 ir 1 le 1s Sees emit ae | 2h #8 my | 2h | 2h = Cap height st sy 5 sh 6 ey oy Armhole meacurement _ = — _ _— = — iiceps wy, | oy fou | oy, it ww, | 15%DRAFTING THE BASIC FAITERN SET 57 Figue 2 Draw a Hine on paper. Mark and Label Ato B =Sieeve length AtoC-Caphright Mark CtaD-One-half of Cto B. DD to Df = 3/4 inch, Mark. Square fines from A.C, DB. Anmbele measurement - Flace a ruler at A and pivot until the measurement touches biceps line. Mark. Cte E= One-half of biceps measurement. Mark. Compare placement of the two marks, and mark biceps int between. Label E. Draw a fine from A ta F, divide into fourths. Mark and label, as shown, ClaF-Cwk Draw a line from A to FE. Divide inte fourths, mark and label, ax shown. B tof) =2 inches lew than C to EL BteP-Bioo Draw a Hine from Oto E and from P to &. Figure 3 Sere lines from the deslloweterg: + Gain AN ine © Lieut 1 beh + Meeout 14 inch © Mout 16 inch Keoul 4/8 inch * Nein 1/2 inch$3 Chapters Figures 4a, b Fromt Capline: Use the French curve to shape the capline by touching A, L, and M_ Draw the curve past M for blending. + Change the position of the curve rule touching E and N, and draw curve blending with M line (Fig- vure 4a). Draw the curve. Back Captine: + Place the curve rule so that A, I, and H touch. ‘Draw the curve past H te blend (Figure 4b) © Change the position of the curve rule touching E and G, and draw curve blending with H line, Faure § Pguia 5 ‘Coumptening the Seve: © Label elbow Level $, and extend fine RLM inch, Draw a line (rem BtoB. © Elbow dart: Ble T= One-half of to D. Mark, Bite Ua] inch, Mark Tito U =R to T, Draw connecting line, D to V= 4/4 inch, Mark, Draw a line from U through V equal! bo § to P. Label Wy, Wite X = Ota? (Adjust at the fitting if necessary.) Draw a line ending at wrist level. Draw a slightly curved line dram X to $ to F, Ease Control Notches Back—Mark notch 1/2 inch up from G and the sec- ‘ond notch 1/2 inch above it. Front—Mark ane notch 1/2 inch above N. ‘Continue with instructions to determine cap ease.USTING SLEEVE TO IHOLE OF BODICE The basic sleeve should meature approximately Z inches more across the biceps of the pattern than the circumference of the arm. The basic sleeve cop should measure an average of 1 1/4 to L 1/2 inches more than the front and back bodice armbole. The difference between the sleeve cap and armhole measurement is the amount of ease meeded to fit ‘over the ball of the arm. The amount of cap ease is deletmined by the width of the biceps, the cap height, and the circumference of the front ante back armhole of the bodice. If amy ome of the Exctors is ‘out of harmony, it will affect the fit and appearance ‘of the sleeve in the following wayx exceuive ot in- sufficient cap ease, cap ease unequally distributed ‘between the front and back armbole. and sleeves ties Ing toc tight or too koose. Incosrect placement of the shewhder of side seams of the form will affect the aligninent of the sleeve, It ix advisable to cottect these problems belore attaching the sleeve to the garment to minimize fitting problems Later. Determining Cap Ease ‘Two methods ate given ta determine cap eave. The ileeve can be walked around the front and back arms hole, or the measurement can be taken by using the plastic rule, Hoth ate allusttstesk Method 1; Walling the Seeve Figutes 10,6, na c © Place the commer of the front deere at biceps to the comer af the badice, Faure te Mave ncremanialy ‘uo fo this point is DRAFTRNG THEIBASIC PATTERN SET 59 Figure 1 to shoulder tip + Mark shouicker fo {Center Notch 4 Canter note (oly Use Hee pushpin allenately bo pict and ade YH he albeve cap around the curve line of the arnilole, Mark the misich location of the alceve to the artis hnleet the bodice, Wher the sleeve cap reaches the shouller tip of Ihe bodice, mark the location on the deve cap. Repeal the process for the back sleeve. Cap Ease U the cap ease is correct, center a notch between. the marks to equalize the ease. Continue on pages 63-64, Ui cap ease is move or less than required, soe pages 61-82 for suggested adjustments of the sleeve of the armhole. When adjustments have ‘been completed, continue on pages 63 and 64.40 Chapters Mathod 2: Flex Rule Measurement not already recorded), Using back armhole measure- Figures 10,5, ana.c ment, measure the back side off the sleeve cxp and Use a very thin flexible plastic ruler held upright ‘atk where the back armbole mexsirement ended. with both hands as the rule is manipulated around. Repeat the process for the front armhole and the curves of the armhole: Measure and record (if mark the front sleeve cap. Fours la Faure tb Fgue te — Equah armhole mecaurenant{, Posed j * Eauch abate meanrernent T f FRONT Cop Ease Figures 1d onde ‘Measure the distance between the marks. + Uf the smount of cap ease is wifficient, center a Eure Ind Fue notch between the marks to equalize the excess ‘The center notch may be moved te equalize the ene. Continue to the next stepon pages 68 and 64. to out, stitch, and balance the sleeve. © lf the cap eaue it lets of more than needed, see pages 61-62 for suggested adjustments of the sleeve or the armbole. When alll adjustments - have heen completed, go ta pages 6164 ta cut | BACK | FRONT BACK | FRONT and stitch the sleeve. + Centernotch Center natchAdjusting the Armhole fo Accommodate Cap Ease Even though the cap ease is the correct amount ora little moce than required, the ease around the cap may chow puckers (small gather}. The reason may be ithe weight of the fabric, or lack of control of the machine as the fullness is sitched around the curve of the armbole. Three examples showing hav to contral the cap excess are given. Figure 1 should ibe tried first. if the problem is not resolved, combine with Figure Z and finally Figure 3. The cap ease for example problem is 13/4 inches. Figures 10, b, and c Lower frum and back armbole motches (ilo not fewer sleeve motcherk: «© Lower the front and back bodice notches L/it inch to 1/4 inch, 1/8 to 1/4 inch of sleeve eave ix held and stitched: Helow the notches, Ikaving remaining cap tise above the lowered notches. Figue ta Figute Ms noua pack y ‘ MA f_/ fRont Pogue Ie Do nat lower copnoicnes) Bock Front DRAFTING THE BASIC FAITERN SET 61 Pgures 20.0 Increase the Fromt amd back armfolex: © Add 1/16 imch to the shoulder tip to zero at shoulder/neck, Add 1/16 inch to the front and back armholes to zero at the waist. The increaced armhole can absoch more of the cap ease, Figure 20 Fquies 30 ong b ‘Dramsfer cane ta the wrembsode frown arositisle charts: * Transfer 1/8 Inch from the front waist dart and Wheulder dart of the back bodies. Mend the pat: tern, of use the pivotal method. Figure ta$2 Chapters Inctecse or Decrease the Biceps (Changing the width of the biceps also increases or decreases cap ease. Figure 4 Increase biceps example: Add 1/2 inch to biceps Trace sleeve and all markings, + Extend biceps Eine 1/4 inch to each side. © Pisce sleeve with push pin on top of the ex- tended line of the biceps. Fivot the sleeve up- ward until sleeve curves touch. Trace and blend, with the traced cap. Fivot the sleeve downvrard, until the under seams touch at wrist level. Trace and true the elbow dart. ‘Repeat the process for the front sleeve. (Broken lines indicate the original sleeve pattern.) Figure 5 Dcreave biceps example: Decrease bicep 1/2 inch +) Trace sloeve and all markings. + Mark 1/4 inch in from each end of the biceps. Mace sleeve and push pin at the new biceps mark and follow the process show irs Figure 4. Increase or Decrease Cap Ease Probleme: Puckering around the cap that appears like a pul oeve (dectease cap bright) (we Figure 7h for a sleeve swinging away from the side seam {ln- ereane capt height} (sre Figure 6), Fue & Paper Uitte apread cap Fgue? Berd ‘This method will ale increase or decrease cap enc. Pqura & « Tolincrease cap height, cut through the grainline tothe comer of the front and back sleeve, and lift tn spread the cap for the extra amount of ease needed. Figure 7 «= Todecrease cap height, cut through the grainline to the comer of the front and back sleeve, and overlsp the cap to-eliminate the excess ease.Setting the Sleeve into the Armhole = Agusta The sleeve is ready to be placed into the armhole. It is nat known whether the sieeve will ayn with or hang slighty forward of the side seam. It is possible ta precheck the fit by pinning the undersleeve to the armhole from notch te notch and pinning the cap notch to the shoulder seam. See Figures 2 and 4. If'a sleeve hangs out off alignment, if can be rotated to correct the problem. Figure 10 + To prepare the sleeve, trace on muslin o¢ the fsb- rit of choice. + Draw the center grainline and the biceps lines, ‘Gut the sleeve from the fabric. Gon 4 Two methods can be used to sew the sleeve cap to the armhole: The cap eave can be crimped andl stitched to the armbole of two tows of gather slitcher can be made from front te back notch, Stitch one tow at the seamtine and the other VA inch above, Pall the gather stitches to equal the distance from the front to back armbole ‘polches. Fave shoukl be evenly spaced to avoid pucker. laste of stitch the deewe te the armbole of the bodice fot Uhe test BL. Evaluate the Hang and Fit ofthe Sleeve Diere thee sleeve alige with on hang slightly forward i thealde math {Tagpure 1p? Docs the sleewe hatig bie ward the back (Figure 2)o mare than 1 inch fats wand of the sce seam (Figure 3)? Sleeves that hang aut ad allgnenent should be rotated until aligned, Does the sleeve show puskess or puff arouric, the cap? It so, reduce cap height; are page 42, Figures @ and 7. ly there insufficicnt cap eae? Hf 0, increase cap elght; see page 41, Figures 4 ana $ { ' ' | \ | \ Sleeve with Pertect Alignment Figure 1b + The grainline of a well-balanced sleeve is aligned ‘with or slightly forward of the side seam.44 Chapters Rotating the Sleeve Rotating the sleeve will be mecesaary if the center grain of the sleeve hangs too far forward or too far back of the side seam of the garment. If either prob- Jem is observed, remove the sleeve from the armhole of the garment and follow the illustrations to cucect the alignment of the sleeve. Imperfect Alignment Figures 20D Slecve Hangs to the Back of side seam. Fgue2a Swing boc ol aie seam Patiern Adjustment Figuros 3c. Adjust the ahoulder and side seam, a0 sbicwn, Figuee Je Fgwe dt * Adel Subtract 4 BACK FRONT Subtract Add, ; Imperfect Alignment Figures 40.0 Sleeve hangs forward of side seam: Figure da Swng forward of side scien Pattern Adjustment Figures dc. Ashiast thse whoulder and sie seam, as chow Figura de gue tdDRAFTING THE BASIC FAITERN SET 45 [SEAMLESS WORKING PATTERNS The basic pattern set should remain seamless to develop design patterns. Seams are added at the completion of the basic pattern and design pattems. The professional designer or patternmaker may prefer todevelop de sign patterns with seamed pattems to save time. The darts ore partially cut out and a punch hale is placed at the end of each dant for accuracy when trocing the pattern for manipulation. SLEEVE aed Purch holes Punch ho BACK = seorniecs shire [SELF-EVALUATION TEST Punch Poles Matching Test Second number: that match the examples. To check your annwers refer fo page B05. 1. Changes 2.010 3.0 Baris 2, Perfoct fit Horizontal balance Hee J. Cap ease for basic uleeve 3/8 inch Once marked not moved Inwufficient cap ease Gapping Misplaced dullness Spenva brings te bak HL marked inscorectly . Packers along cap line Balanced garment |, Sloove hangs out from side Fanic dress bridges the hallows Cop height too short ‘Adjusting deve balance Excessive cap este Control fit Shift center cap notch Bodice in balance Basic dress HBL, Uneven hemline Armhole notches Equalize cap ease : i Decrease binep Rotating sleeve “ Used for pattems manipulation . Biceps toa loose Bodice aligned Working patterns . Stitched darts Shift under seam ta righs44 Chapters [COMPLETING THE PATTERN A completed pattern has seam allowance, pattern symbols (notches, a punch, and circtes), grainline, and pattem information. Patter symbols guide the seamstress in constructing the garment, and pattern information assists in the production process. If the suggested pattern information differs from that of the company’s standards, defer to the company's standard. Pattem Information ‘Write of print pattern information clearly. Patterns other than lining and interconstraction shauldl be eritien in black felt-tip pen. Lining pattems ore titien in blue, interlining in green, and interfacing, in red, Pattern information can be placed in thecen- ter of the pattern or placed along the grainline and on Lhe right-side-up of each pattern. Gralnline. The graintine is drawn through the length of the patterns, Patter identification. Label each pattern (duatice find, back, akiet, slorve, collar, pocket). Style number, Write the-code numbet of the pattern sol—fet exainpte, 33463 (35 may ickentify the typeof gatment and 63 may identify the fabtich Pattern wlze, Recon the pattem size, Mover ch White the mambet ef pieces cui from each pattern Lo complete the garment, ‘Aline separates the tire (10) from the number of piocon cut, See examples on page 67. Seam Allowance ‘The follawing are general guidelines: 1/4 Inch All faved areas «Sleeveless armholes * Narrow spacing «Extreme curves 12 Inch © Armboles with sleeves © Woistlines © Center tines = Styletines © Sickeseams (vary: 3/4 inch, 1 inch} © Zipper seams (vary: 3/4 inch, 1 inch) ‘Ovatlock Seam © AiGinch warm allowance Punch/Carela ‘A nyinbiol to ntlivate: Nearing the end of darts Pocket, of (rim lneations Rutondluttonhele placement © Invere canonsDRAFTING THE BASIC FAITERN SET 7 Basic Pattern Set—Seamed