FABRIC REQUIREMENT

A major question that arises in one’s mind at the time of purchasing fabric for any garment
is how much to buy? It is a very important question and to be able to give an objective
reply, it requires a person to be an expert in pattern development and an expert in making
an economical layout. For the garment industry, this is of crucial importance, as even
minimal saving of 5cms of fabric in a shirt would result in 50 meters being saved in a lot of
1000 shirts. At Rs. 80 per meter it would save Rs. 4000/-, which is a substantial amount of
saving for a producer. Generally an expert is able to save as much as 25 - 30cms in a
garment easily even for a single shirt that is a big saving in the made to measurement
sector of the apparel industry.

Imagine a stage where one buys minimum of 50cms extra than the required amount, so
that one does not run short of fabric while cutting. The amount of money that is being spent
on extra fabric, which goes waste and is thrown out or that collects dust is tremendous.

How to calculate fabric required?

For any garment, that one is going to make one needs to know its two major dimensions i.e.
maximum length and the maximum round width. For any garment one needs a minimum of
two lengths plus seam allowances. The fabric has two grains lengthwise grain and width
wise grain. One should cut the garment lengths along the length wise grain as this is the
stronger grain (which you have learnt in earlier chapters) and the fall of the garment would
be far better on this grain. One is able to cut the garment in less fabric only if the width of
the fabric is wide enough to fit two length of the garment in one length of the fabric.

The patterns representing all the individual pieces of the garment should be laid out
together in such a manner that they fit within the confines of the fabric width as closely and
efficiently as possible. This minimizes the wastage in fabric. This is a pattern lay.

How to make a layout?

In the industry, this is the specialized task for which most of the companies that work on
developing, pattern making software for the clothing industry have been working for a long
time and have successfully created a number of dedicated software. On the computer all the
pattern pieces of the garment are either digitized or drafted and a lay of the garment is
made. A rectangle of the dimensions of the fabric is made and the pattern pieces are placed
on it in exactly the same manner as one would on a fabric keeping in mind whether a piece
is to be cut on fold, on bias or on a cross grain. One can do this exercise manually by cutting
or drawing a similar rectangle on a small scale and placing or drawing the pattern pieces
also on small scale in it. This exercise would be more scientific, precise and accurate for
fabric calculation. An example of the same is given below:
It takes time and effort to fit together all the pieces of pattern. It is like playing a giant
puzzle. The game is to place all the pattern pieces on grain in such a manner so as to be able
to use the entire width and the length most economically. For such purposes it is advisable
to keep on hand several lengths of wrapping paper cut to standard widths of fabric on
scale.

Place the fabric on a flat surface. Line up its straightened edges with the straight edges of
the cutting surface. Place the pattern in position. Start with one end of the fabric. Support
the weight of the cloth at the other end of the cutting area. When the pattern pieces have
been temporarily pinned on the material check if you could adjust the pattern pieces and
save more fabric.
Remember to place the pieces on the right grain and close to each other. Spaces between
them may result in wastage of as much as five to six inches of fabric. Always place the
largest piece first, then the ones that may need to be cut on fold. Fit in the smaller pieces.
Fit in the shapes against each other, locking them whenever possible. This saves a lot of
fabric. Arrange the pattern pieces in such a manner that if any fabric is left, it is in one
usable piece, either at an end or middle.

The pattern pieces have to be laid out in such a way that it takes into account directional
properties of fabric, such as fabric design and fabric grain. The quality of a product is
affected significantly by the accuracy of fabric matching also called mitering that is very
important for fabrics with checks or stripes. Mitering is the perfect matching of check or
stripes even other directional prints on the side seam, centre back and centre front seam or
any seam that might be running across in the garment like a yoke or waistline seam. This
might require more fabric consumption and great deal of time and effort, for a perfectly
mitered garment is a joy and pride of a designer and master tailor.

Given below are methods of fabric calculations for some of the popular categories of
garments. These have been given on an assumption that one would be using readily
available 36" width fabric. These are just indicative and have been done for basic or
classical styles in the category and are in no way conclusive as it is expected that this
should be combined with practical exercises at every step. This is a practical subject and
more learning happens with hands on experience.

Shirt - For buying fabric for a man’s shirt, one need to know the shirt length, the round
chest, and sleeve length whether full or half. One needs to buy fabric piece for two lengths
of the shirt plus the seam allowances and one length of the sleeve with seam allowance.
Care should be taken to place the centre front on selvedge, as not only this saves fabric but
also will save one operation, as the placket would have a ready finished edge. In case one is
making a shirt in a fabric that has one way print one may need at least two lengths of the
shirt and sleeve length.

Trouser – A trouser is generally made in the thicker fabric, which most of the times is
available in a larger width of 60". Hence, one requires fabric piece for one length of the
trouser plus 25cms, since two legs of the trousers have 4 pieces which can be cut two at
one time by placing them in opposite directions on a fabric that is, folded half width wise.
In case one is making a trouser in a fabric that has one way print one would need at least
two lengths of the trouser.

Pajama- is a trouser like in its pattern but is generally much wider for comfort and easy fit.
Generally it requires fabric piece for two lengths of pajama plus seam allowance.

Kalidar Kurta – A Kalidar Kurta has two simple rectangles for back and front, which have
the dimension of cross back plus seam allowance by the length of the Kurta plus the seam
allowance. It has two sleeves, the length of which depend on design and generally has four
kali. The kali’s are cut in the same manner as the Salwar side panels. Generally the kali is
added after the sleeve in the Kurta but in some designs it may start from shoulder. In case
the fabric width is sufficient (depending on the width of the kali required) you need fabric
piece for one length of the Kurta, one length of the kali and one length of the sleeve.
Otherwise, you would need two lengths of the Kurta and one length of the kali. In case the
number of kali’s is more then the fabric required would increase proportionately.
Skirt – Skirt generally has one back piece, one front piece and a waistband. You need fabric
piece for two lengths of the skirt. There are tremendous possibilities of design variation in
skirt. So the generalization may not work for skirts with bigger flares, more panels,
different fits and skirts with yokes holding pleats or gathers. The amount of gathers or
pleats in the skirt generally determine the fabric required.

Nightie – Like a shirt you need two lengths of the Nightie and one sleeve length.
All the above are indicative measurements and requirements. It is recommended that one
learns to make a pattern layout. As explained in the beginning layout is a process similar
to the actual cutting of fabric one needs to layout on an imaginary fabric with the required
pieces as one would on an actual fabric for the sake of fabric calculation.

For the beginner it is important to do a simple exercise as a learning point and should
progress into more complicated ones later. Conversion chart of fabrics with various
widths has been prepared and that is to be used after one has calculated the fabric
required for a garment in 36" width (which is a most common width available in the
Indian market). A beginner needs to buy at least 25cms extra, as it is only with experience
that one is able to make a layout economical and accurate. Another reason is that as a
beginner one may make some mistakes in marking or cutting the right grain or
dimensions and run short of fabric. After gaining experience, one must do some
complicated layouts to gain confidence.

FABRIC CARE
The proper care of clothes ensures that the garments last longer and gives one value for
money and look great after a number of washings. The garments that can be washed have
been explained in the chapter “Fibre and Fabrics”. In this chapter the topics covered are
maximum ironing temperatures and spots and stain removal from various fabrics. These
are important for proper care of garments and fabrics.

Pressing or ironing

To get wrinkles out of the handkerchief one pushes the iron along, this is ironing - a gliding
motion. Pressing is an up and down motion. Lower the iron, press, and lift and move on to
another section of the fabric. Then again lower the iron, press and lift the iron; this is the
pressing motion. As ironing has long strokes it is done on flat surfaces. Pressing is done on
small surfaces using various pads to suit the shape of different pieces and parts of the
garment. For the shaped three-dimensional garments it is advisable to use small shaped
pads for pressing. For better finishing, it is advisable to press each and every dart and
press-open every seam while stitching. Press open every enclosed seam before turning the
facing back to the underside.

It is so much easier to topstitch an edge when it has been pressed flat. It is far easier to
insert a zipper after seam allowance has been pressed back first. Do not press over pins or
basting as they leave marks.

Safe pressing temperatures limits for fabrics

Fabrics Temperatures

Natural Fibres
Cotton 400 o -425o F
Linen 450 o F
Silk 300 o F
Wool 300 o F

Manmade Fibres
Acetate 250 o -350 o F
(Press on wrong
side)
Acrylic 300 o F
cover with pressing
Metallic cloth
Nylon 300 o -350 o F
Polyester 325 o F
Rayon 350 o -375 o F
(Press on wrong side)
Rubber Do not press
Spandex 300 o F
Vinyl Do not press
Blends/mixed lowest for the fibre
Fibres type

Pressing special fabrics

a) Crepe weave fabric- Crepe weave fabrics tend to shrivel when damp and stretch with
pressure. Place a press pad under the fabric and a press cloth over the fabric to
retain the crinkle. Press lightly at required temperature depending on the type of
fibre.

b) Furs- They require very little or no pressing. Press from the wrong side, if you
choose to press, use a self-fabric or a thick pile fabric like toweling as a press cloth.

c) Napped fabrics- same as for furs using either a self fabric or a thick pile fabric like
toweling as press cloth.

d) Slubbed, looped, ribbed fabrics- Place the right side of the material against the right
side of self-fabric or terry cloth. Using a light touch steam the fabric.

e) Wool- press lightly using a press cloth with moderately hot iron and steam lightly, if
required.

f) Metallic fabrics- ironing should be avoided as they may get permanently creased
while being ironed. If necessary, press lightly with a warm iron over a dry press
cloth.

g) Leather or leather-like and coated fabrics- should not be ironed.

h) Lace fabrics- in order to preserve the raised structure of lace, place it over a thick
towel and cover with press cloth and steam iron lightly.
 FULL SLEEVE FORMAL SHIRT

MEASUREMENTS TO BE TAKEN ADDITIONAL MATERIAL REQUIRED

• Round neck (just for reference) • Collar fusing for collar
• Across shoulder • Collar fusing for collar band
• Chest • Collar fusing for cuff
• Waist • 6 buttons for front placket
• Length of bodice – 29" • 2 buttons for cuff
AMOUNT OF FABRIC REQUIRED
• 2.5 m

BASIC SHIRT (FRONT)

STEP No. REFERENCE POINT DETAILS

1. O Starting point

2. O–A Total length of basic shirt

3. O–B ¼th of chest

4. O–C 1/12 th of chest -3/4"

5. O–D Shoulder drop = 1 ½ "

6. O–E 1/12 th of chest;- ¾"

7. E–F Join E – F parallel to O – C

8. D–G ½ of shoulder + ½ " & join E – G

9. B–H ¼ of chest +1 ½"

10. H–I Perpendicular to HB, join till total length
11. G–H Join using French curve

12. E–C Join using French curve

13. X–Y 2" away, parallel to CA (for placket)

BASIC SHIRT (BACK)

STEP No. REFERENCE POINT DETAILS

1. O–L 1½ in.; draw a line parallel to D - G
2 L– M Parallel & equal to GD

3 M–H Draw a curve using French curve

SLEEVE

STEP No. REFERENCE POINT DETAILS

1. O Starting point

2. O–A Length of sleeve – width of cuff

3. O–B 1/ 12 th of chest

4. B–B1 ¼ of chest, also equal to B – B2

5. A–A1 1/6 th of chest, also equal to A – A2

6. ———— Join B1 – O; A1 – B1

7. C1&C2 Mid of O – B1 & O – B2

8. D1&D2 Mid of C1 – B1 & Mid point of C2 – B2

COLLAR & COLLAR BAND

STEP No. REFERENCE POINT DETAILS

1. O Starting point

2. O–A 1" (on fold)

3. O–B ½ of neck + ½ "; also OB = OC

Convert lines OB & OC into curves& blend them as

4. ————- shown in fig.

5. D–E O – A + ¼ “(on fold)

6. C–F Customized length & shape

 MEN’S FLAT FRONT TROUSER

MEASUREMENTS TO BE ADDITIONAL MATERIAL

TAKEN REQUIRED
• Waist •Trouser fusing for waistband
• Hip •1 button for waistband
• Outer length •1 button for back pocket
• Inner length •1 8" zip
• Knee length
• Bottom opening
• Total length of trouser : 42"
• Crotch = outer – inner length

FABRIC REQUIRED
• 1.20 m

FRONT
BLOCK

REFERENCE
STEP No. POINT DETAILS
Starting point; take measurements from the 1-½"
1. O mark on the
tape, for length, knee and crotch.

2. O–A Total length of trouser

3. O–B Knee length

4. O–C Crotch length

5. C–D ¼ of hip + 2"

6. D–E 2"
7. E–J Perpendicular to CD touching the guide line

8. F Mid point of CD

9. F–G Extend perpendicular to CD till guide line below

10. G–H 1/4th of bottom opening, also equal to GI

11. J–K ½" & join KO

12. K–O ¼" of waist + ½"

13. F–M 1/12 th of hip

14. M–N Join MN and make EN = 1.1"

BACK BLOCK

REFERENCE
STEP No. POINT DETAILS
1. C–P ½"

2. Q–P CD+2½"

3. K–Y 1 ½"

4. Y–S 1 ½", join SO

5. S–T ¼ of waist + 1 ½"

6. O–U ½ of OC & U touches the back curve

7. U–V ¼ of hip + 1 “; join SV & extend; blend line SV till Q

DART AT CENTRE OF WAIST LINE: 4"X 1"

CROSS POCKET BAG

REFERENCE
STEP No. POINT DETAILS
1. ———— Make a rectangle 13" X 7" and mark a point O

2. O–A 13"

3. O–B 1½"

4. B–C 7 ½"
5. C–D 2"
6. X–E 1"
7. E–F ½"
8. ——— Make curves as shown in the pattern.

NOTE:
• Join XR parallel to front block with leg curve & join RQ with hip curve.
• Join LC & TC with hip curve
• Join CI with leg curve

WAISTBAND & FLY PIECE

Follow the patterns, as given

POCKET PLACEMENT
FOR FRONT: 2-½ “from waist & 2" from side. (Width = 4 "& height = ½")
FOR BACK: on dart 2-½" from waist (width = 4 "& height = ½")
For welt pocket cut rectangular block measuring 14" X 5"

PANEL TOP WITH CHINESE COLLAR

6. Mark point E from O which is 1/12th of
chest.
MATERIAL REQUIRED
7. Join E and F which should be parallel to
- Any cotton or cotton variant fabric, OC.
approximately 1.5m 8. From point D mark G which is 1/2 of
shoulder + 1/2“ and join E – G.
MEASUREMENT
9. BH is equal to 1/4th of chest + 1”
a. Round neck d. Waist
10. ZY is 3.5” of chest measurement.
b. Across shoulder e. Length
11. YX is 1”.
c. Chest
12. ZZ1 is 1/4 th of waist + 1/2” + 1” for darts.
METHOD FRONT
13. Join GH using a French curve.
1. Draw line OA which is the total length
measured. 14. Mark AI as 1/4th of hip + 1/2”.
2. From point O mark Z which is the waist 15. AS is chest/12 + 1”
level (15”) 16. R is the midpoint of GE. Join R with the
3. Then from O mark B which is 1/4th of apex point i.e. R1 and extend the line to
chest measurement – 1.5”. point S perpendicular to AI.
4. From O also mark C which is 1/12th of
17. Cut on the line S, X, R1, R and S, Y, R1, R
chest.
5. From O mark the shoulder drop at point D which will divide the pattern into 2
which is 1”
panels. (similar for the back)
BACK 3. From point B mark B1 which is 1/4th of
18. From point E mark L which is 1” and draw chest –2” and is = B - B2.
a line parallel to OE. 4. A1 and A2 = 12” or Sleeve bottom
19. From point M mark L which is 1” above 5. Join B1 to O, A1 and B1, B2 and O, A2 and
and is parallel and equal to GE. Also MG B2.
and LM would be perpendicular to GE. 6. C1 and C2 are mid points of OB1 and OB2.
7. Similarly D1 and D2 are mid points of
C1B1 and C2B2.
8. Join these points with a slight curve as
shown in the gure.
9. The armhole of the front block will always
be deeper in the curve than the back.

CHINESE COLLAR
1. From point O mark A i.e. 1”.
2. From O draw a horizontal line till point B
which is 1/2 of neck +1/2 “and also OB=
AC.
3. From point B go up 1/2” and from point C
Fabric Dual Colour Mix Options go up 2/8th inch.
Pantone 7635c 7467c and 1585c 362c 4. Blend it from the midpoint of the lines OB
and AC.
5. Curve the points as shown in the gure.
SLEEVE
CONSTRUCTION
1. Mark line OA which the length of the
sleeve. 1. Trace the front on the fabric twice (one
2. OB would be 5”. for left and one for right)
Fabric Dual Colour Mix Options 2. On both sides of the front pattern extend
Pantone about 1 1/2“ from the centre front for the
plackets

20. Join LP and MH using a French curve.

3. The seam allowance is included. 11. Now turn around the collar and give a top
4. Trace the back on fold. stitch on the stitched part at about 2/8th
5. Join the side seams with at fell seam. of a distance.
6. Finish the hem with Blind hem stitch. 12. Sandwich the neckline with the collar and
7. For the collar, trace the full pattern twice give it a neat top stitch.
as shown in the gure.
8. Use micro dot fusing for a little sti ness.
TRIMS
9. Stitch the collar with right side facing each
1. Di erent kinds of printed fabrics can be
other. (make sure the fusing part should used to play around
be on top while stitching because when 2. Piping can be used in the color for
you turn it around, that part will go decorative purpose
inside)
10. Leave the lower part open for attachment
to the neckline.

PANEL TOP WITH CHINESE COLLAR

'L'
 'M' 'E'
'P' 'O' 'B' 'O'
'R' 'D' 'C'
'G' 'A'
'C'
'F'
'O'
.5”
1”

'H' 'B' 'C1' 'C2'

.5”
3/4”
'R1' 'D1' 'D2'
'B1'
'B2'
'B'
'Z1' 'Y' 'X'
'Z'

'I' 'S' 'A'

'A1' 'A' 'A2'

TOP WITH SAILORS COLLAR 8. From point O to E on centre front which is

1/4th of chest – 1.5”.
MATERIAL REQUIRED 9. From point E mark H which is 1/4th of
chest + 1”.
- Any cotton or cotton variant fabric,
approximately 2m 10. From point C on line GC1 mark point R
which is 3”.
MEASUREMENT 11. Extend collar length about 6” from point B
to point S2.
a. Round neck d. Waist
b. Across shoulder e. Length 12. S2-S1 = 1.5”.
c. Chest 13. S is midpoint of S2 and S1.
14. Join S1 with point R.
METHOD FRONT 15. Join S2, B, C1 with straight line.
1. Draw line OB which is 15” (waist level). 16. From point B to T2 which is 1/4th of waist
2. Mark point OA which is 1/12th of chest. + 1.5” (Dart width is 1.5”, dart length is
3. Mark point OC1 i.e. 1/12th of chest. from apex point to waist level).
4. Mark point OT which is 1/2 across 17. Join HG with French curve.
shoulder.
5. From point G to point T i.e. 1.25”. BACK
6. Join GC1. 1. Mark point DQ which is waist level (15”)
7. Mark point C1 to C which is 0.5”.
2. Mark point Z from Q which is 1/4th of
waist + 1” (Dart width is 1” and dart
length is 5.5”)

Fabric Dual Colour Mix Options

Pantone 306c 232c and 340c 7579c

3. Mark point D to E which is 12” and mark

point EF which is 7”.
4. Join FR.
5. Join LG with French curve.

CONSTRUCTION
1. Cut the pattern twice on the fabric.
2. Fuse one side with micro dot fusing.
3. Stitch the collar with right side facing each
other. (make sure the fusing part should
be on top while stitching because when
you turn it around, that part will go
inside)
4. Leave the lower part open for attachment
to the neckline.
5. Sandwich the neckline with the collar with
a simple lock stitch.

TRIM
1. The collar can be tied in di erent ways and
experimented with.
2. Color blocking can be done
3. Piping can be used in the collar.
TOP WITH SAILORS COLLAR

'Q'
'W1'
'W'
'E'
'Z'

'F'

'V'

'L'
'D'

'C1''C' 'O'
'T'
'G' 'R'
'A'

'E'
'H'

'I'

'T2' 'B'
'I2' 'I1'

'S1' 'S2'
'S'

Overlap Top b. Across shoulder e. Length

c. Chest
MATERIAL REQUIRED
- Any cotton or cotton variant fabric, METHOD FRONT
approximately 2m 1. Draw line OA which is the total length
measured.
MEASUREMENT 2. From point O mark Z which is the waist
level (15”)
a. Round neck d. Waist
3. Then from O mark B which is 1/4th of chest
measurement – 1.5”.
4. From O also mark C which is 1/12th of chest +1
1/2“.
5. From O mark the shoulder drop at point D which
is 1”
6. Mark point E from O which is 1/12th of chest +
3/4th “
7. Join E and F which should be parallel to OC.
8. From point D mark G which is 1/2 of shoulder +
1/2 “and join E – G.
9. BH is equal to 1/4th of chest + 1”
10. ZY is 1/12th of chest measurement.
11. From point Z mark Z1 which is 1/4th of waist+
1/2” and also + 1” for the dart (1/2” on either
sides XY)
12. Keep in mind that the distance between point Y
to the centre front should be 3 to 3 2/8“ Fabric Colour Options
13. Join GH using a French curve. 191 354
14. Mark AI as 1/4th of hip + 1/2”. Pantone c 3262c c 239c
15. R is the midpoint of GE. Join R with the apex
point i.e. R1 and extend the line to point S
perpendicular to AI.
16. From the Centre front line i.e. CA extend C to
point C1 on the straight line i.e. 3 1/2“
17. Go down about 1/2“ from point C1 and join it
with C with a slight curve.
18. From point A on the Centre front line Go out 3 21. From point M mark N which is 1/2”
1/2” and join with C1. above and is parallel and equal to GE.
19. Cut on the line S, R1 and R which will divide the Also MG and NE would be perpendicular
pattern into 2 panels. (similar for the back) to GE.
22. Join NP and MH using a French curve.
BACK
20. From point O mark D which is 1” and draw a line CONSTRUCTION
parallel to OE. 1. Trace the front on the fabric twice (one
for left and one for right)
2. The right side of the front panel will fall
as an overlap on the left.
3. The seam allowance is included.
4. Trace the back on fold.
5. Join the side seams with at fell seam.
6. Finish the hem with Blind hem stitch.

TRIMS
1. You can nish the top with fancy Chinese
buttons available in the market.
2. Piping and lace can be added on the
overlapping panel.
3. Decorative stitches can be used.
OVERLAP TOP

'N'
'E'
'M' 'O'
'R'
'G' 'P' 'D'

'C1
'F' 'C'

'H' 'B'

'R1'

'Z1' 'X' 'Y'

'Z'

'I' 'S' 'A'

c. Chest
YOKE CUT TOP
MATERIAL REQUIRED METHOD FRONT
- Any cotton or cotton variant fabric, 1. Draw line OA which is the total length
measured.
approximately 1.5m
2. From point O mark Z which is the waist level
(15”)
MEASUREMENT
3. Then from O mark B which is 1/4th of chest
a. Round neck d. Waist
measurement – 1.5”.
b. Across shoulder e. Length
4. From O also mark C which is 1/12th of chest
+1 1/2“.
5. From O mark the shoulder drop at point D
which is 1”
6. Mark point E from O which is 1/12th of chest
7. Join E and F which should be parallel to OC.
8. From point D mark G which is 1/2 of
shoulder + 1/2 “and join E – G.
9. BH is equal to 1/4th of chest + 1”
10. ZY is 1/12th of chest measurement.
11. From point Z mark Z1 which is 1/4th of
waist+ 1/2” and also + 1” for the dart (1/2”
on either sides XY)
12. Join GH using a French curve.
13. Mark AI as 1/4th of hip + 1/2”.
14. Go down 10” from the shoulder level and
mark a horizontal line for the yoke.
15. Cut on the line to separate it from the yoke. Fabric Dual Colour Mix Options
Pantone 1785c102c and 234c 1767c
BACK
16. From point O mark D which is 1” and draw a
line parallel to OE.
17. From point M mark N which is 1/2” above CONSTRUCTION
and is parallel and equal to GE. Also MG and 1. Trace the front on the fabric on fold.
NE would be perpendicular to GE. 2. The seam allowance is included.
18. Join NP and MH using a French curve. 3. Trace the back twice, for right and left side
respectively.
4. Join the yoke with French seam for the front
and back.
5. Join the side seams with at fell seam.
6. Stitch the dart keeping the lines equal.
7. Finish the hem with Blind hem stitch.
8. Use a concealed zipper at the back.

TRIMS
1. Two di erent fabrics can be used. Like one
plain and one printed.
2. Lace stitch can be used for joining the 2
panels.
3. Piping can be done on the sleeve and neck
ZYOKE CUT TOP

'N'
'E'
'O'
'M'

'G' 'P' 'D'

'C'
'F'

'H' 'B'

'Z1' 'Y' 'X'

'Z'

'I' 'S' 'A'

RAGLAN TOP

MATERIALS REQUIRED
- Any cotton fabric with 2 di erent colors for
the sleeve and the body), approx. 2m

MEASUREMENT
a. Round neck d. Waist
b. Across shoulder e. Length
c. Chest

METHOD FRONT
1. Draw point OA total length of Top.
2. OT is 1/2 of across shoulder
3. OD = OE ie 5”
4. Now from E go down 2.5” Fabric Dual Colour Mix Options
5. F is the mid point of ED curve
Pantone 341c 7406c and 021c
6. AI is 1/4th of Hip + 1” 314c
7. Join FC with a straight line.
8. H is the midpoint of CF, from H go down
1/2” to G.
9. Join FGC with a slight curve shape. CONSTRUCTION
1. The top will be cut on fold.
BACK 2. Attach the sleeves with body and then nish
the top with French seam.
10. Back will be same as front.
3. Finish the neck line with shaped facing or
SLEEVE blind hemming.
11. CQ is length of sleeve. 4. Now nish the hem line of top with straight
stitch or hemming.
12. EC = BQ is 1/4th of chest + 1”(width)
13. OE is neckline which is 5”.
TRIMS
14. ED is 2.5”.
1. Fabrics with two colors can be used
15. BR is half of sleeve bottom.
2. Stitch detailing on the sleeve can be used
16. CF is chest/6 – 3/4”
3. Piping can also be used as an option on the
17. Join FR with French curve.
sleeve.

RAGLAN TOP EVE

'Q' 'R'
'C' 'O'

'F' SLE
 ON
'G'
'C'
'B'

'B'

'E'
'E' 'T'

'D'

'H'
FOLD
'I' 'A'

8. From point D mark G which is 1/2 of

PRINCESS DRESS
shoulder + 1/2“ and join E – G.
The dress can be achieved from the basic top / torso 9. BH is equal to 1/4th of chest + 1”
foundation. 10. ZY is 1/12th of chest measurement.
MATERIAL REQUIRED 11. From point Z mark Z1 which is 1/4th of
- Plain or printed cotton which t comfortably , waist+ 1/2” and also + 1” for the dart
approx. 3m (1/2” on either sides XY)
12. The length of the dart will be 3 1/2“
MEASUREMENT upward from the waist line and joining
a. Round neck d. Waist straight to the hip line which is 9” below
b. Across shoulder e. Length the waist level.
c. Chest 13. Join GH using a French curve.
14. Mark AI as 1/4th of hip + 1/2”.
METHOD
15. R is the midpoint of GE. Join R with the
1. Draw line OA which is the total length measured.
apex point i.e. R1 and extend the line to
2. From point O mark Z which is the waist level
(15”) point S perpendicular to AI.
3. Then from O mark B which is 1/4th of chest 16. Draw a straight line from point H to I as
measurement – 1.5”. shown in the gure.
4. From O also mark C which is 1/12th of chest +1 17. Mark the hip level. (9” below the waist
1/2 “. level)
5. From O mark the shoulder drop at point D which 18. Extend the line till the length you desire
is 1” for the dress.
6. Mark point E from O which is 1/12th of chest 19. Blend as shown in the gure.
7. Join E and F which should be parallel to OC. 20. Also keep a 1 inch extension at the back
for zipper opening.
CONSTRUCTION
1. Trace the front part twice

Fabric Dual Colour Mix Options

Pantone 7726 7723and 178c 116c

2. Trace the back part twice.

3. Finish the side seam and the princess
seam with French seam.
4. You can use a di erent colored piping to
add a creative edge.
5. Finish the neck line with shaped facing
6. Finish the hem with blind hem.

TRIMS
1. Any solid or printed fabric can be used
2. Stitch detailing on the sleeve can be used
3. Piping can also be used as an option on
the sleeve and in between the princess
line.
4. A metal zipper can be used for the back
closure or similar colored buttons can
be used for closure.
PRINCESS DRESS

'E''O'
'G' 'R' 'P'
'D'

'F' 'C'

'H' 'B'

'R1' OPENING

BACK

'X' ' Y' 'Z'

'Z1'

WAIST LEVEIL TO HIP LEVEL 9''

'I'
'S' 'A'

UMBRELLA SKIRT METHOD

1. Take square piece of fabric.
MATERIAL REQUIRED 2. Fold it four times as shown in the gure.
- Any cotton or cotton variant/ printed fabric, 3. From Point O mark A and B ie ( 1/4th of
approximately 3.5m waist measurement)
4. AB is 1/4th of waist measurement.
MEASUREMENT 5. From O mark the desired length of the
a. Waist skirt + 1/4 th of waist to point C and D
b. Length required.
and make a curve.
BELT
1. AB = CD = 1.5”
2. AC = DB = waist/2

CONSTRUCTION
1. Finish the waist line AB with wide width elastic.
2. Finish the hem with blind hem.

TRIMS
1. Printed fabrics can be used
2. Lace can be used on the hem.

Fabric Dual Colour Mix Options

Pantone 7709 7634c and 802c
811c
UMBRELLA SKIRT

'C'

FOLD
1” ON BELT 'A'

ON
FOLD
'D' 'B'

'O' 'B'
'D'
ON FOLD

'A'
ON FOLD

'C'