DEFINITION OF CHIFFON

Fiber: Silk, rayon, cotton, synthetics. 
Weave: Plain 
Characteristics: A light diaphanous fabric of silk, nylon, etc Lightweight, sheer,
transparent. Made with very fine, tightly twisted yarns. The tightly twisted yarns
could be either in the filling or the warp or both. It is very strong, despite filmy
look. Wears very well. It is very difficult to handle when sewing and it is best to
baste the pieces over tissue to make it easier. It has slightly bumpy look. It is best
suited to shirring, draping, gathering, tucking, etc., because it is so limp. If made
in a straight sheath style, it should be underlined with very firm fabric.
e.g. faille taffeta. 
Uses: After 5 wear, blouses, scarves. 
Derivation of Chiffon: French from chiffe ‘rag’ 

DEFINITION OF GEORGETTE

Weave: Plain 
Characteristics: A thin silk or crêpe dress material. Usually done in silk but can
also be found in manufactured fibers. It is characterized by its crispness, body and
outstanding durability. It is sheer and has a dull face. 
Derivation of Georgette: Named after Georgette de la Plante (c.. 1900), French
dressmaker 

DEFINITION OF VOILE

Fiber: Cotton - also wool and called "Voilé de laine". 

Weave: Plain, loosely woven. 
Characteristics: A thin semi-transparent dress material of cotton, wool,
or silk. Sheer and very light weight. Usually made with cylindrical combed yarns.
To obtain a top quality fabric, very highly twisted yarns are used. Voilé drapes and
gathers very well. The clear surface is obtained by singeing away any fuzzy yarns.
Has a hard finish and crisp, sometimes wiry hand. "Voilé de Laine" is wool Voilé. 
Uses: Dresses, blouses, curtains. 

1
Derivation of Voile: French, = VEIL 

DEFINITION OF ORGANDY

Fiber: Cotton. 
Weave: Plain. Some has lappet, swivel, or flocked designs. 
Characteristics: Made with tightly twisted yarns. Crispness is due to a finish with
starch and calendaring which washes out, or a permanent crispness obtained with
chemicals (Heberlein process). Wrinkles badly unless given a wrinkle-free finish
(bellmanizing). May be bleached, dyed, printed, frosted, flocked, embroidered,
or plisse. 
Uses: Fussy children's wear, trims, collars and cuffs, baby's wear, bonnets,
artificial flowers, dolls clothes, millinery, summer formals, blouses, curtains,
bedspreads, aprons. 

DEFINITION OF LAWN

Fiber: Cotton 
Weave: Plain 
Characteristics: A fine linen or cotton fabric used for clothes. Word derived from
Laon, a city in France, where linen lawn was manufactured extensively. Light
weight, sheer, soft, washable. It is crispier than Voilé but not as crisp as organdy.
Made with fine high count yarns, silky feel. Made with either carded or combed
yarns. Comes in white or may be dyed or printed. When made with combed yarns
with a soft feel and slight luster it is called nainsook.
Uses: Underwear, dresses, blouses, night wear, curtains, lingerie, collars, cuffs,
infant wear, shirtings, handkerchiefs. 
Derivation of Lawn: Middle English, probably from Laon, a city in France
important for linen manufacture 

DEFINITION OF BATISTE

Fiber: Cotton, also rayon and wool. 
Weave: Plain 

2
Characteristics: Named after Jean Batiste, a French linen weaver. Light weight,
soft, semi-sheer fabric which resembles nainsook, but finer. It belongs to
the lawn family; almost transparent. It is made of tightly twisted,
combed yarns and mercerized finish. Sometimes it is printed or embroidered. In a
heavier weight, it is used for foundation garments and linings in a plain, figured,
striped, or flowered design. Considered similar to nainsook but finer and lighter in
weight. Now usually made of 100% polyester distinguished by slubs in filling
direction. 

DEFINITION OF CHINA SILK

Fiber: Silk. 
Weave: Originally hand woven in China of silk from the Bonabyx mori. Very soft
and extremely lightweight but fairly strong. Irregularities of threads caused by the
extreme lightness and softness are characteristic of the fabric. 
Uses: Mostly for linings and under linings, and could be used for blouses. 

DEFINITION OF CHALLIS

Fiber: Wool-also made in cotton, hair fiber, rayon, and a silk warp

and worsted filling. 
Weave: Plain 
Characteristics: Anglo-Indian word "Shallee" meaning soft. Soft, very
lightweight. May be dyed or printed with a delicate floral pattern, paisleys, or
geometric patterns and faint designs. Often washable. Originated in Norwich
England in 1832. 
Uses: Women's and children's dresses and blouses, comforters, kimonos,
neckties, and sportswear. In slacks or shorts it would have to be lined. 

DEFINITION OF PERCALE

Fiber: Cotton 
Weave: Plain 

3
Characteristics: Medium weight, firm, smooth, with no gloss. Warps and washes
very well. Made from both carded and combed yarns. Comes white or can be
printed. Percale sheeting is the finest sheeting available, made of combed yarns
and has a count of 200 - carded percale sheeting has a count of 180. It has a soft,
silk-like feel. The thread count ranges usually from 180-100. First made by
Wamsutta Mills. 
Uses: Dresses, women's and children's, sportswear, aprons, and sheets. 

DEFINITION OF CALICO

A printed cotton cloth superior to percale. Pattern is printed on one side by

discharge or resist printing. It is not always fast in color. Sized for crispness but
washes out and requires starch each time. Designs are often geometric in shape,
but originally elaborate designs of birds, trees, and flowers. Inexpensive. Similar
to percale. Very little on the market to-day, but the designs are still in use on
other fabrics and sold as "calico print". 

Uses: Housedresses, aprons, patchwork quilts. Calicoes were first imported into
Europe from India during the Renaissance and have since been manufactured in
both Europe and the United States. Calico was especially popular in America
during the 19th century. N.B. European definition is very different …

Fiber: Cotton 
Weave: Plain - usually a low count. 
Characteristics: Originated in Calicut, India, and is one of the oldest cottons.
Rather coarse and light in weight, generally bleached or white. 
Derivation of Calico: Named after Culicut a city on the coast of Malabar, India. 

DEFINITION OF CHINTZ

Fiber: Cotton 
Weave: Plain 
Characteristics: Has bright gay figures, large flower designs, birds and other
designs. Also comes in plain colors. Several types of glaze. The wax and starch
glaze produced by friction or glazing calendars will wash out. The resin glaze finish
will not wash out and withstand dry cleaning. Also comes semi-glazed. Unglazed
chintz is called cretonne. Named from the Indian word "Chint" meaning "broad,

4
gaudily printed fabric". 
Uses: Draperies, slipcovers, dresses, sportswear. 

DEFINITION OF MUSLIN

A smooth delicately woven cotton fabric, used for dresses and curtains. In the USA
coarser cotton fabrics used for shirts and sheeting are also called muslins. 
Derivation of Muslin: French Mousseline, from Mussolo, Mosul, a city in Iraq
(Mesopotamia). 

DEFINITION OF FLANNELETTE

Fiber: Cotton 
Weave: Plain and twill. 
Characteristics: A napped cotton fabric imitating flannel. A heavy, soft material
with a napped finish, usually only on one side. In cheaper qualities the nap comes
off. Launders well, easy to manipulate and is warm to wear. There are many types
on the market. It may be bleached, dyed, printed, or woven in colored stripes. 
Uses: Infants and children's wear, men's, women's and children's sleeping wear,
pocket linings, quilts, shirtings. 

DEFINITION OF FLANNEL

Fiber: Wool, worsted, cotton, rayon. 1 a kind of woven woolen fabric, usu. without

a nap. b (in pl.) flannel garments, esp. trousers. 2 Brit. a small usu. toweling
cloth, used for washing oneself. 
Derivation of Flannel: perhaps from Welsh gwlanen, from gwl³n ‘wool’ 

DEFINITION OF GINGHAM

Fiber: Cotton, man-made, and synthetics. 

Weave: Plain. 
Characteristics: Yarn-dyed plain weave cotton fabric, usually striped or checked.
Medium or fine yarns of varying quality are used to obtain the checks, plaids,

5
stripes, and plain effects. The cloth is yarn dyed or printed. The warp and the
filling are usually balanced and if checks of two colors, usually same sequence in
both the warp and the filling. It is strong, substantial, and serviceable. It launders
will but low textured, cheap fabric may shrink considerably unless pre-shrunk. Has
a soft, dull luster surface. Wrinkles unless wrinkle-resistant. Tissue
or zephyr ginghams are sheer being woven with finer yarns and a higher thread
count. 
Uses: Dresses, blouses, for both women and children, trimmings, kerchiefs,
aprons, beach wear, curtains, bedspreads, pajamas. 
Derivation of Gingham: From Malay ginggang Lit. striped. 

DEFINITION OF MADRAS

Fiber: Cotton - some in rayon and silk. 

Weave: Plain, also dobby or jacquard for designs. 
Characteristics: Originated in Madras, India and it is a very old cloth. Much of it
has a plain colored background with stripes, plaid, checks, or designs on it. Has a
high thread count and fine. Made with combed or carded yarns depending on the
quality. Some is mercerized to make it lustrous and durable. Often the dyes are
not fast and with each washing, color changes take place. 
Uses: Men's and women's sportswear of all kinds, dresses, separates, shirts. 

DEFINITION OF CHAMBRAY

Fiber: Cotton 
Weave: Plain weave or dobby designs on a plain-weave ground. A fine variety
of gingham, commonly plain, but with the warp and weft of different colors. 
Characteristics: Made with a dyed warp and a white or unbleached filling. Both
carded and combed yarns used. Has a white selvedge. Some woven with
alternating white and colored warp. "Faded" look. Has very soft coloring. Some
made with stripes, checks or embroidered. Smooth, strong, closely woven, soft
and has a slight luster. Wears very well, easy to sew, and launders well. If not
crease resistant, it wrinkles easily. Originated in Cobrai, France, where it was first
made for sunbonnets. 
Uses: Children's wear, dresses, shirts and blouses, aprons, all kinds of
sportswear. A fine variety of gingham, commonly plain, but with the warp and weft

6
of different colors. 
Derivation of Chambray: From Cambric 

DEFINITION OF BURLAP

Burlap (or Jute) is used in textiles for interiors, especially for wall hangings and a
group of bright, homespun-effect draperies and wall coverings. Natural jute has a
yellow to brown or gray color, with a silky luster. It consists of bundles
of fiber held together by gummy substances that are pertinacious in character. It
is difficult to bleach completely, so many fabrics are bright, dark, or natural brown
in color. Jute reacts to chemicals in the same way as docotton and flax. It has a
good resistance to micro-organisms and insects. Moisture increases the speed of
deterioration but dry jute will last for a very long time. Jute works well for
bagging, because it does not extend and is somewhat rough and coarse. This
tends to keep stacks of bags in position and resist slippage. It is widely used in the
manufacture of linoleum and carpets for backing or base fabric. 

DEFINITION OF CREPE DE CHINE

Silk warp and Crêpe twist silk filling 25 x 22. More ends than picks per inch. Has a
soft hand and considerable luster. Made of raw silk or rayon. It is easy to
manipulate and handle. Very long wearing. Most of it launders well. It is
fairly sheer. Could be piece dyed or printed. Has a slight rippled texture. Heavy
Crêpe de chine is called "Canton Crêpe" which is slightly ribbed and now mostly
made in rayon. 

DEFINITION OF BROADCLOTH

Fiber: Cotton and silk, and rayon. Very different than wool broadcloth. 

Weave: Plain weave and in most cotton broadcloths made with a very fine
crosswise rib weave. 
Characteristics: Originally indicated a cloth woven on a wide loom. Very closely
woven and in cotton, made from either carded or combed yarns. The filling is
heavier and has less twist. It is finer than poplin when made with a crosswise rib
and it is lustrous and soft with a good texture. Thread count ranges from high

7
quality 144 x 6 count down to 80 x 60. Has a smooth finish. May be bleached,
dyed, or printed; also is often mercerized. Wears very well. If not of a high quality
or treated it wrinkles very badly. Finest quality made from Egyptian or combed
pima cotton - also sea island. 
Uses: Shirts, dresses, particularly the tailored type in plain colors, blouses,
summer wear of all kinds. 

DEFINITION OF MOIRE

Fiber: Silk, rayon, cotton. 
Weave: Plain or crosswise rib. 
Characteristics: Has a watermarked finish. Fairly stiff with body in most cases. It
is produced by passing the fabric between engraved cylinders which press the
design into the material, causing the crushed and uncrushed parts to reflect the
light differently. The pattern is not permanent, except onacetate rayon. 
Uses: After 5 wear, formals, dresses and coats, draperies, bedspreads. 

DEFINITION OF TAFFETA

Fiber: Silk, rayon, synthetics. 
Weave: Usually plain with a fine cross rib. 
Characteristics: Lustrous silk or rayon fabric of plain weave. A cloth supposed to
have originated in Iran (Persia) ad was called "taftah" (a fine silk fabric) - (in 16th
century, became a luxury for women's wear). It is made in plain colors, fancy
prints, watered designs, and changeable effects. It is smooth with a sheen on its
surface. The textures vary considerably. They have a crispness and stiffness.
Taffeta in silk will not wear, as long as other high quality silks, since weighting is
given the fabric to make it stiff. If it is overweighted, the goods will split or crack. 

Uses: All kinds of after 5 wear, dressy evening wear: suits and coats, slips,
ribbons, blouses, umbrella fabric. It is quite a dressy fabric. 
Derivation of Taffeta: From Persian taftah silken or linen cloth 

DEFINITION OF SHANTUNG

8
Fiber: Cotton, silk, rayon, synthetics. 
Weave: Plain. 
Characteristics: It is a raw silk made from Tussah silk or silk waste, depending
on the quality. It is quite similar to pongee, but has a more irregular surface,
heavier, and rougher. Most of the slubs are in the filling direction. Wrinkles quite a
bit. Underlining helps to prevent this as well as slipping at the seams. Do not fit
too tightly, if long wear is expected. Comes in various weights, colors and also
printed. 
Uses: Dresses, suits, and coats. 
Derivation of Shantung: Shantung, Chinese province, where it was originally
made 

DEFINITION OF POPLIN

Fiber: Cotton, wool, and other textile fibers. 

Weave: Crosswise rib. The filling is cylindrical. Two or three times as many warp
as weft per inch. 
Characteristics: A plain-woven fabric usu. of cotton, with a corded surface. Has a
more pronounced filling effect than broadcloth. It is mercerized and has quite a
high luster. It may be bleached, or dyed (usually vat dyes are used) or printed.
Heavy poplin is given a water-repellent finish for outdoor use. Originally made
with silk warp and a heavier wool filling. Some also mildew-proof, fire-retardant,
and some given a suede finish. American cotton broadcloth shirting is known as
poplin in Great Britain. 
Uses: Sportswear of all kinds, shirts, boy's suits, uniforms, draperies, blouses,
dresses. 
Derivation of Poplin: obsolete French papeline, perhaps from Italian papalina
(fem.) 

DEFINITION OF FAILLE

Fiber: Silk, rayon. 
Weave: Crosswise rib. 
Characteristics: A soft transversely ribbed silk or rayon fabric. Has a definite
crosswise rib effect. Very soft material that drapes well. Finer than grosgrainbut in
that family - ribs are also flatter than in grosgrain. Some belongs to the Crêpe

9
family. It is rather difficult to launder. Will give good wear if handled properly. Has
a lustrous finish. 
Uses: Dresses, blouses, soft evening purses, some dressy coats. 
Derivation of Faille: French 

DEFINITION OF OTTOMAN

Fiber: Silk, rayon, wool or synthetics. 
Weave: Crosswise rib. 
Characteristics: A heavy silken fabric with a mixture of cotton or wool. Heavy in
weight - larger rib than both faille and bengaline. Very pronounced flat ribs in the
filling direction. Ribs are made by a cotton, worsted, silk, or rayon filling which
does not show on either the face or the back, because the warp covers the filling
entirely. Is called Ottoman Cord or Ottoman rib when a warp rib is employed.
Fabric is stiff and cannot be gathered or shirred. Like other ribbed fabrics, it has a
tendency to slip at the seams and crack, so it cannot be fitted too tightly. 
Uses: Evening wraps, formal coats, dressy suits, dressy afternoon wear, and after
5 wear. 
Derivation of Ottoman: French ottomane, fem. of ottoman OTTOMAN 

DEFINITION OF BEDFORD CORD

Fiber: Wool or worsted but worsted is more popular. Also made

in cotton, silk and rayon. 
Weave: Lengthwise rib. Sometimes the ribs are emphasized by stuffing. 
Characteristics: Both Bedford, England and New Bedford, Mass. claim the name.
Very pronounced rib. Very firm construction. Takes much hard wear. Has various
qualities and weights. 
Uses: Suiting, coatings, riding breeches, uniforms and upholstery. 

DEFINITION OF HOPSACKING

Fiber: Wool, worsted, cotton, linen, rayon, silk, hemp, jute. 
Weave: Basket. In wool and worsted 2 x 2 basket usually or novelty basket to

10
resemble hopsack cloth. 
Characteristics: Made with coarse yarn. Has a rather rough texture and quite
durable. Often quite bulky but various weights. 
Uses: Men's and women's sportswear, coats, suits, draperies. If fine, used for
dresses. 

DEFINITION OF HUCKABACK

Fiber: Linen, cotton. 
Weave: Dobby or basket. 
Characteristics: It is strong. Rough in the surface finish but finer, shinier than
cotton huckaback. Has variation in weaves but most have small squares on the
surface that stand out from the background. Comes in white, colors, or colored
borders. Also stripes. The motif is made from a series of floats, some of them
rather long, which gives a loose effect in certain areas. This, if well spaced, acts as
a good absorbing agency. 
Uses: Mostly used for toweling. 

DEFINITION OF HONEY COMB

Weave: Float 
Characteristics: Its name comes from a French word meaning birds nest. Its
patterns are regular and open. Honey Comb is found in many fabrics and is also
known as Diamond Weave. 
Uses: Draperies, jackets and women's clothing. 

METALLIC FABRIC

Fiber : Polyester , nylon , metallic

Pattern : Plain dyed

11
Style : Jacquard

Metallic fabric is is type of satin fabric. Metallic Fabric is widly used for garments
and [Link]'s excellent in quality and beautiful in design . Advantage:it's
excellent quality . Usage: it's widly used in garments and decoratings and packing
etc. It is more lustrous fabric. It is a light weight fabric.

POLYESTER

Polyester is a synthetic polymer . Fabrics woven from polyester thread or yarn are
used extensively in apparel and home furnishings, from shirts and pants to jackets
and hats, bed sheets, blankets and upholstered furniture. Industrial polyester
fibers, yarns and ropes are used in tyre reinforcements, fabrics for conveyor belts,
safety belts, coated fabrics and plastic reinforcements with high-energy absorption
While combustible at high temperatures, polyesters tend to shrink away from
flames and self-extinguish upon ignition. Polyester fibres have high tenacity and E-
modulus as well as low water absorption and minimal shrinkage in comparison
with other industrial fibres.

12