Study Unit

Introduction to Dogs
By

Alan Finn
Contributing Reviewer
Jennifer Smith, NCMG
 About the Author

Alan Finn has successfully owned and operated a grooming and

training center in Northeastern Pennsylvania for 25 years.

About the Contributing Reviewer

Jennifer Smith is the director of training at the Classy Pet Grooming

School in Loveland, Colorado. She is a Nationally Certified Master
Groomer and has 23 years of grooming experience. She won numer-
ous awards for her artistic grooming skills, owned and operated four
successful grooming salons, and taught countless groomers. She is
also an all-breed show handler and a breeder of champion dogs,
including Pomeranians, Flat-Coated Retrievers, Bearded Collies,
Tibetan Terriers, and Poodles.

Special thanks are also extended to the following other reviewers

of this program: Christine I. McCall, Allen Veterinary Hospital,
Binghamton, New York; Charlotte Rickell, Char’s Traveling Trimmer,
Randallstown, Maryland; Robin Ross, Abington Grooming Salon,
Clarks Summit, Pennsylvania; Frank Tunis, Omega Pet Grooming,
Scranton, Pennsylvania; and Susan Matuska, The Salon at
Milnerhous, Scranton, Pennsylvania.

All terms mentioned in this text that are known to be trademarks or service
marks have been appropriately capitalized. Use of a term in this text should not be
regarded as affecting the validity of any trademark or service mark.

Copyright © 2015 by Penn Foster, Inc.

All rights reserved. No part of the material protected by this copyright may be
reproduced or utilized in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical,
including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and retrieval
system, without permission in writing from the copyright owner.
Requests for permission to make copies of any part of the work should be
mailed to Copyright Permissions, Penn Foster, 925 Oak Street, Scranton,
Pennsylvania 18515.
Printed in the United States of America
In this study unit, you’ll explore the background of the
domestic dog. You’ll read a brief overview of the different
groups of dog breeds recognized by the American Kennel
Club (AKC). You’ll also develop an understanding of the
different personalities exhibited by dogs. You’ll learn how to
take the dog from the owner, secure it in the kennel, and

Preview
return it to the owner. You’ll also be introduced to the
different coat types of dogs.

When you complete this study unit, you’ll be

able to
• Discuss the probable ancestral background of the dog
• List the five basic dog personality types
• List and differentiate among the seven AKC dog breed
groups
• Discuss the dog personality types in detail and the
typical body language associated with each
• Describe appropriate dog grooming methods for each
personality type
• Explain the best ways to take dogs from their owners,
get them in and out of crates or kennels, and return the
dogs to the owners
• Describe the different coat types of dogs

Remember to check your student portal regularly. Your instructor may

post additional resources that you can access to enhance your learn-
ing experience.

iii
 Contents
INTRODUCTION 1
Classifying Dogs 1
The Ancestry of the Dog 3

TYPES OF DOGS 6
Terriers 7
Non-sporting Group 8
Toy Group 9
Sporting Group 10
Herding Group 11
Hound Group 12
Working Group 12

TYPES OF PERSONALITIES 15
Fearful 16
Submissive 21
Happy-Go-Lucky 24
Dominant 26
Aggressive 27

GENERAL HANDLING OF DOGS 30

Taking the Dog from the Owner 30
Kenneling the Dog: In and Out 33
Returning the Dog to the Owner 36

SELF-CHECK ANSWERS 39

v
Introduction to Dogs

INTRODUCTION

Classifying Dogs
In this study unit, you’ll explore the canine family. You’ll
learn about the different types of dog breeds and their per-
sonalities. Dog breed groups recognized by the American
Kennel Club (AKC) are discussed.
This unit focuses on the most popular, recognized, and com-
mon breeds. The AKC recognizes new breeds every year, and
it’s imperative that you stay well informed because new
breeds that become popular will come into your salon. We
encourage you to explore the world of dogs through other
references to broaden your knowledge.
Regardless of the breed, each dog is an individual. When
learning about the different breeds, you’ll find that certain
generalizations can be made, such as the following:
• German Shepherd Dogs are intelligent and make good
guard dogs, service dogs, and search-and-rescue dogs.

• Lhasa Apsos are intelligent and independent and have

a tendency to be barkers. They make good guard dogs.

• Golden Retrievers are happy dogs. They make good ser-

vice dogs. They’re good with children, so they’re good
family pets.

1
 We could go on and on. You’ll find as you gain experience
with the different dog breeds that you’ll associate certain
personality traits with certain ones. Again, we’re making gen-
eralizations that won’t apply to every dog. In this study unit,
we’ll give you the “groomer’s edge” and teach you some of the
secrets of the dog’s mind and personality. You’ll gain a basic
understanding of the breeds and the way they’re grouped
together, but we plan to concentrate on the personality,
mind, and language of the dog.
Because of irresponsible breeding (and inexperienced people
breeding dogs), we’re finding more difficult dogs, with respect
to behavior, than ever before. We’re finding that today’s life-
style is different from that of 10 or 20 years ago, creating
personality differences and difficulties. The owner’s lifestyle,
form of discipline, and poor attitudes are some of the causes
of these changes.
Every rule has exceptions. Remember that each dog is an
individual, and must be treated as such. You’ll come across
dogs that don’t fit into our categories, or whose language is
different from what we’ll discuss. Because the dog’s language
is developed through experience, human contact, training,
and other variables, the results can be wide ranging. Here
we focus on dog instinct and generalizations. You’ll be able
to use this knowledge to handle and understand the majority
of dogs, as well as explore those exceptions.
The five basic types of dog personalities are
• Fearful

• Submissive

• Happy-go-lucky

• Dominant

• Aggressive

Some dogs will fall into these categories; others will be a

combination. You’ll find that some of the characteristics we
discuss are the same or similar for more than one personality
type. Think of a sliding scale, with the fearful dog at one end;

2 Introduction to Dogs
the aggressive dog at the opposite end; and the submissive,
happy-go-lucky, and dominant dogs in between. The dogs most
likely to bite are at either end of the scale—fearful or aggressive.
Until you understand how to handle dogs, you can’t be success-
ful at grooming them. You’ll explore the personalities in greater
detail later in this study unit.

The Ancestry of the Dog

It remains unclear whether all domesticated dogs evolved from
the wolf. The main question is whether the domesticated dog
evolved from a single species or from several. Some experts have
concluded that the domesticated dog evolved from wolves and
jackals, because fertile hybrids can be produced by interbreed-
ing them. The dog may also have originated from an extinct
species. Other experts believe that the dog has descended
from a combination of species. We’ll probably never be certain.
Regardless of breed, all modern dogs belong to a single species,
Canis familiaris.
Are dogs descended from wolves? The instinctual, social, and
survival behaviors of the canine closely resemble those of the
wolf. We can get a better understanding of the dog by looking at
the wolf. Socially, wolves are a pack animal, meaning that they
live together in a family, as a group. They hunt, sleep, and play
together as a family unit. The wolf pack has one designated
leader, sometimes referred to as the alpha or pack leader. This
leader earns the position through such characteristics as physi-
cal strength, size, and intelligence. The social structure of the
pack has protected wolves from becoming extinct. The wolf is
a den animal. That means that it lives in a small area or enclo-
sure, such as a cave. The enclosed den gives the animal a
secure and safe feeling, one of being safe from predators.
Their young are born in the den.
When early humans tamed the wild dog, they realized that their
best friend could also perform certain services. So they began
to play with breeding one dog to another to achieve desired
results. Some of the services they bred dogs for were for protec-
tion, hunting, rodent removal, and herding, to name a few.
Many of the behavioral traits we associate with certain breeds
were actually developed for the job they were expected to do.

Introduction to Dogs 3
 Many breeds were bred for a specific job, and even though
they’re no longer used for the job for which they were bred,
many of the behaviors remain. For example, Shelties have a
tendency to “nip at the owner’s ankles.” Shelties were origi-
nally bred for herding sheep, which they do by nipping at the
sheep’s ankles. Lhasa Apsos, Shih Tzus, and Maltese have a
tendency to bark at the slightest noise and be protective. In
their native countries, these animals were bred as guard dogs
for royalty and monks to protect the bedchamber.
Just as many behavior traits were developed, different groom-
ing cuts were also developed to aid the dog in doing
its job and to provide safety for the animal.

4 Introduction to Dogs
 Self-Check 1
At the end of each section of Introduction to Dogs, you’ll be asked to pause and check
your understanding of what you’ve just read by completing a “Self-Check” exercise.
Answering these questions will help you review what you’ve studied so far. Please
complete Self-Check 1 now.

1. Why are pet groomers finding more behavioral problems in dogs today than ever before?

__________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________

2. What are the five basic personality types discussed in this study unit?

__________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________

3. Which two personality types are the most likely to bite?

__________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________

Check your answers with those on page 39.

Introduction to Dogs 5
 TYPES OF DOGS
The AKC is an organization that maintains the purebred
canine bloodlines in the United States. The AKC has chapters
throughout the nation. It develops standards of breeding,
looks, and personality that successful breeders follow to con-
duct their breeding practices. The Canadian Kennel Club is
the Canadian equivalent of the AKC. The United Kennel Club
is the equivalent in Europe.
AKC chapters sponsor dog shows throughout the country
where dogs can be judged according to the standards for
their breed. The dogs are judged, and winners are awarded
ribbons, trophies, titles, championships, or prizes, depending
on the show and the level of the win. Winning a champion-
ship gives dogs and owners a sense of pride and accomplish-
ment and adds monetary value to the dog’s offspring in the
breeding world. Obedience trials are also a part of the dog
show. They offer another aspect to the dog for those who are
interested in the “well-trained” animal.
If there’s a dog show in your area, you should attend. It’s the
best place to see a variety of dogs in one place and to observe
the standards of grooming. You’ll find many of the breeders
and handlers willing to answer your questions about their
dogs, especially when you show genuine interest and excite-
ment about their breed. Always remember to be considerate.
You should never approach breeders and handlers if they’re
busy, waiting to go into the ring, or talking to someone else.
If you can’t find a show in your area, you can go to the AKC
Web site and look up shows in your state. You can view a
tape from a premier dog show such as the Westminster
Kennel Club Show or the Eukanuba Classic. You can prob-
ably locate such tapes through advertisements in dog
magazines or by contacting the AKC.
In the dog show, the dogs are judged on different levels and
different age groups, although each dog is judged against
the breed standard for that breed, not against the dogs it’s
competing against. The winners at each level progress to the
next level. They start with dogs of the same breed and move
on to dogs in specific groups and then to the “Best in Show”
competition. “Best in Show” is the top award that can be

6 Introduction to Dogs
given. All the dogs are judged according to the specific breed
standards established by the AKC. A listing of all of the
breeds is available in a book called The AKC Complete Dog
Book; it’s available at most bookstores.
Mixed breeds are an interesting blend of characteristics and
personalities. With some mixes, you’ll think, “Why would
anyone combine those breeds?” Other mixes will seem to
make sense. And sometimes you’ll say, “I wonder what this
combination would look like.” Some combinations will prob-
ably become recognized by the AKC in the future. After all,
most breeds have been developed by breeding certain combi-
nations of dogs.
The AKC has organized the many dog breeds into seven
groups, according to the functions that the breeds have
served or are still serving. We’ll outline these different groups,
give you guidelines as to how they’re organized into the
groups, and explore a few breeds from each group.

Terriers
The word Terrier comes from the Latin terra, meaning “earth.”
These dogs have been bred for digging in the earth or bur-
rowing into holes after prey. This prey can be anything from
mice and rats to badgers. The shape of the Terrier tail makes
an excellent handle for pulling a dog out of a hole. (Grabbing
a dog by the tail isn’t a recommended grooming procedure,
because the tail can easily be bruised or broken.) Terriers
tend to be fearless, tenacious, stubborn, and aggressive.
Terriers are divided into two types: long-legged and short-
legged. Although the coats of these dogs come in different
types, most Terriers have a wiry coat.

Long-Legged Terriers
Long-legged Terriers have longer legs and are typically more
slender in appearance than the short-legged Terriers. Let’s
take a look at a few of the long-legged Terriers: Lakeland,
Irish, and Airedale Terriers.

Introduction to Dogs 7
 The Lakeland Terrier originated in Britain. The dog’s job was
to kill foxes and vermin that preyed on farmers’ lambs and
poultry. It’s a tough, brave, and agile breed. Its double coat is
hard, wiry, and dense. The dog comes in a variety of colors;
the most common being any shade of tan to red.
The Irish Terrier originated in Ireland. It was used as a ratter,
as a guard dog, and to retrieve game. Irish Terriers are active
and alert. Their coat is hard and wiry, with a soft undercoat.
The Airedale Terrier originated in Yorkshire, England. It was
used to remove otters from fishing ponds and to hunt vermin
that destroyed crops. It’s a popular watchdog and hunter. Its
double coat is hard, dense, and wiry.

Short-Legged Terriers
The short-legged Terriers are exactly that, Terriers with
shorter legs. Several of these breeds are groomed so that the
hair on the legs and undercarriage of the dog is much longer
than that of long-legged Terriers.
The Scottish Terrier, or Scottie, is a working terrier from
the highlands of Scotland. They can be black, brindle, or
wheat in color. The outer coat is hard and wiry, with a soft
undercoat.
The West Highland White Terrier is also from Scotland. They
were used to hunt foxes and badgers in rocky terrain and
tunnels. Their white coat is straight and wiry.
The Cairn Terrier is from the Scottish Highlands. Packs of
these dogs were used to control fur-bearing vermin.
Originally, the Cairn Terrier and the West Highland White
were classified as one breed, but now they’re separated into
two different breeds. This dog’s coat is plentiful and hard.
They come in many colors, except white.

Non-sporting Group
The breeds in the non-sporting group come from a variety of
backgrounds. Some are valued mainly as pets or companion
dogs, because they’re no longer needed for the specialized
work for which they were bred. This group includes several

8 Introduction to Dogs
of the Oriental breeds; the breeds with smashed-up faces, such
as the bulldog; and a wide selection of the curly-coated breeds.
Most of the Tibetan breeds are in this group as well.
The Bichon Frise originated in the Mediterranean. The Bichon
Frise is an animated powder puff of a dog with a cheerful per-
sonality. They were a favored pet of the aristocracy as well as
the common man; their personalities are appealing to all. The
name, which is French, means “curly-coated lapdog.” These
dogs have a curly coat and are always white in color.
The Lhasa Apso originated in the lonely and isolated Himalayan
Mountains. Reflecting its Tibetan heritage, Lhasas are sturdy
mountain dogs. Originally, their primary duties were as watch-
dogs inside the palace, and they still maintain their regal atti-
tude. Their intelligence, acute hearing, and natural instinct for
telling friend from stranger helped to make the Lhasa suited for
its role. The breed has remained relatively unchanged over the
years. Today they’re companion dogs. This dog has a long, flow-
ing drop coat and comes in a wide variety of colors.
The Chow Chow is of Chinese origin. It was originally used to
guard, hunt, and work as a cart dog. It’s a powerful dog, with
a protective and aggressive attitude. The Chow Chow has a leg-
endary black-blue tongue and a thick, profuse double coat.
The Poodle originated in Germany and was originally used as a
hunting dog, both on land and in the water. Poodles of all sizes
are smart and loyal dogs. They have a thick, curly, and harsh
coat in various colors. The Miniature and Standard Poodles are
in the non-sporting group; the Toy Poodle is in the toy group.

Toy Group
The smallest dog breeds are found in the toy group. The toy
breeds were bred almost entirely for pleasure and companion-
ship. Some are miniatures of the larger breed from which they
were derived. As a rule, they’re long lived and friendly.
The Maltese is named for the Isle of Malta, where it originated.
The Maltese has a long, flowing white coat with no undercoat
and weighs approximately six to seven pounds. They have very
dark eyes. They’re very affectionate and intelligent and were a
favorite pet of Roman ladies, who carried them in their sleeves.

Introduction to Dogs 9
 The Pekingese originated in China. They were considered good-
luck charms by the Chinese Imperial Court; the theft of one was
punishable by death. A Pekingese coat can come in any color,
with or without white markings; it has a double coat that’s long
and profuse.
The Pomeranian originated in an area that was once considered
a part of Germany. They originated as a larger dog that weighed
up to 30 pounds. Through selective breeding, the English bred
them down to the miniature replicas they are today. The
Pomeranian weighs between three to seven pounds and has a
thick double coat that stands off the body. The coat can be any
color or pattern.

Sporting Group
The main job of dogs in the sporting group is to find and retrieve
game birds. The sporting group includes the Spaniels, Setters,
and Retrievers.
The American Cocker Spaniel is the American version of the
English Spaniel. It has been valued for its talents as a gundog
and family pet. Unfortunately, this breed has been too popular
for its own good, resulting in poor breeding. Fortunately, the
trend is slowly reversing. They come in many solid shades of
brown, tan, black, and parti-color (white with markings of
another color). Cocker Spaniels have a thick, somewhat wavy,
oily coat.
The Brittany is the Breton (French) peasant’s hunting dog. One
of the smallest of the versatile gundogs, it’s quick and agile. It
can point and retrieve game. It works equally well in dense cover
or open country. Dogs of this breed are born without a tail or
have their tail docked to prevent injury from briars when in the
field. The Brittany has a relatively short body coat with feather-
ing on the chest and legs; its coat is flat or wavy with some
undercoat. Orange and white or liver and white are the accept-
able colors for a Brittany.
The origins of the Irish Setter remain a mystery, but it has a
sporting-dog heritage. Its coat is fine on the head and forelegs
and feathered everywhere else. It’s a bit too fond of people to
make a good watchdog. An Irish Setter can be any color of
mahogany or chestnut red; white is allowed on the chest or toes.

10 Introduction to Dogs
The Vizsla is of Hungarian decent. A pointer and retriever, it’s
a versatile gundog. It works equally well on upland game and
fowl and is a strong swimmer. The coat is short, dense, and
tight fitting to the body with no undercoat. Any solid color of
red is acceptable.

Herding Group
The herding group was developed to keep herds of animals
under control. Some of the breeds protected their charges
from predators. Some are heavily coated for protection
against the weather. Some of the breeds in this group have
great stamina and can herd sheep and cattle all day.
The Collie is a native of Scotland. It’s used for guiding sheep
and cows to market. It comes in rough-coated (full, long,
double coat) and smooth-coated (short double coat) varieties.
The colors for a Collie are sable (like Lassie), tricolor (black,
tan, and white), and blue merle (a combination of grey, black,
and white). The colors are the same for both coat types.
The Bouvier des Flandres is of Franco-Belgian origin. It’s a
large dog that’s excellent as a guard dog or police dog. It was
originally used to herd cattle and drive them to market. The
Bouvier has a double coat, with a harsh outer guard coat and
a fine silky undercoat. It comes in all colors except chocolate
brown. Parti-colors are acceptable colors for a Bouvier.
Despite its name, the Australian Shepherd was developed
in the United States. Today, these dogs serve a variety of
functions, working as ranch dogs, guide dogs, hearing dogs,
drug-detecting dogs, and search-and-rescue dogs. They’re
very active dogs and make great family dogs. They’re a
double-coated breed and come in several colors, including
tricolor, blue or red merle, and solid black or solid red.
German Shepherd Dogs originally worked on German farms
due to their superior herding talents. These dogs are fierce
and loyal family protectors, and they excel in obedience work.
They’re used as police dogs, guide dogs, trackers, drug dogs,
and search-and-rescue dogs. They have a dense, short dou-
ble coat and come in a variety of colors, the most common
being black on the back with tan legs, chest, and belly. Even
though you’ll see them, the AKC doesn’t recognize white
German Shepherd Dogs.

Introduction to Dogs 11
 Hound Group
The hounds are probably the oldest dogs known to man. The
long-legged hounds (often called sight hounds) were bred for
speed, endurance, and superior eyesight. The hounds with
shorter legs (sometimes known as scent hounds) were bred
for a keen sense of smell.
The Afghan Hound, which originated in Afghanistan and
India, is a member of the ancient Greyhound family. They
have great speed and agility. Afghans are great family dogs;
however, they tend to be aloof with strangers. Its coat is long
and silky without an undercoat, and they can come in any
color.
The word Dachshund is German for “badger dog.” They have
a keen nose while in pursuit of their quarry. Dachshunds
come in three varieties: smooth coat, long coat, and wired
coat. They’re available in standard and miniature sizes.
During competition, Dachshunds are divided by coat type,
not size. The colors for a Dachshund vary from solid to dap-
ple (lighter shades of the same color, marked over darker
colors).
The Greyhound is one of the world’s swiftest dogs. Originally,
they were valued hunters of stags, foxes, hares, and gazelles.
As dog racing became a popular sport in various countries
around the world, the Greyhound was a natural pick. Today,
many retired Greyhounds become pets. The Greyhound coat
is short, smooth, and firm. Any color or pattern is acceptable
for the Greyhound.

Working Group
Dogs in the working group are known for their strength and
intelligence. They’ve been trained to perform a variety of
tasks, including guarding property, drawing sleds, and guid-
ing the blind. Although protective by nature, most working
dogs are fond of people.

12 Introduction to Dogs
The Samoyed was discovered by fur traders in Siberia.
Originally, they were used to guard flocks and drive sleds.
They make a devoted family pet, but they’re independent.
They have a thick, dense double coat that’s white and can
have tan markings.
The Akita is honored as a national treasure of Japan. At one
time, ownership was restricted to the Japanese nobility. It
was used to hunt large game such as wild boar and deer. It
was also used in the blood sport of dog fighting, which has
been outlawed. A double coat in any color that’s thick and
dense is desired.
The Doberman Pinscher is a German working breed. It’s
internationally renowned as a security dog. It does extremely
well in obedience work. It has a clean profile that’s enhanced
by a gleaming, close-fitting coat. The most common colors are
black and tan or red.
Of course, many breeds aren’t mentioned here. To go through
them all would take a book in itself. It will benefit you to
become as familiar as you can with as many breeds as possi-
ble. The quickest way to insult a Bichon Frise owner is to
say, “My, what a nice poodle you have!” The average owner
will have little confidence in the groomer who can’t recognize
the dog’s breed.
Take a few moments now to complete Self-Check 2.

Introduction to Dogs 13
 Self-Check 2
1. What is the American Kennel Club?

__________________________________________________________

2. What are the two terrier groups?

__________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________

3. Which AKC group contains the smallest of all dogs?

__________________________________________________________

4. Which AKC group includes the oldest dog breeds known to man?

__________________________________________________________

5. Which sporting group breed has been excessively popular, and thus poorly bred?

__________________________________________________________

6. Into how many groups does the AKC divide dogs?

__________________________________________________________

Check your answers with those on page 39.

14 Introduction to Dogs
TYPES OF PERSONALITIES
You’ll come across as many personalities in the pets you
groom as you do in people. Just as you can’t treat all people
the same way, all dogs can’t be treated the same way. In this
lesson, you’ll explore the fearful, submissive, happy-go-lucky,
dominant, and aggressive dogs.
Let’s discuss the personality scale. Look at Figure 1. The
dogs that bite are on either end of the scale: the fearful on
the left, the aggressive on the right. The submissive, happy-
go-lucky, and dominant dogs comprise the middle. There are
degrees of personality and mixtures of personalities, such as
a happy-go-lucky dog with some dominance. A somewhat
aggressive dog can be trained behaviorally to lash out only
when it can no longer flee. There are few truly aggressive
dogs, and most of them are born that way. Not much will
change them.
FIGURE 1—This personality
scale displays the five
HAPPY-GO- general personality types
FEARFUL SUBMISSIVE DOMINANT AGGRESSIVE
LUCKY of dogs.

Biter Biter

You’ll have to determine the dog’s personality as it relates to

its grooming experience. An in-depth analysis of its personal-
ity can be left to dog trainers and behaviorists. However, as a
groomer, the first thing you should notice about a dog is its
body language, and you must handle the animal accordingly.
A positive grooming experience is important for you and for
the dog. If you have a bad time with an animal, your whole
day can be stressful as a result. If the dog has a bad experi-
ence, the next time you try to groom the animal it will be
even worse for you, because the dog will remember the
unpleasant experience. When you learn to handle dogs
properly, you’ll improve the experience for everyone. By
learning about body language and behavior language, you’ll
be able to ensure a positive grooming experience for the dog.

Introduction to Dogs 15
 A primary hazard of being a groomer is the possibility of get-
ting bit. Understanding the language of the dog will help you to
avoid this situation. You can avoid getting bit by saying that
you don’t groom biters, but then you would have very few dogs
to groom. All dogs are capable of biting. It’s in their makeup.
The only way a dog can truly protect itself is to run away. If it
can’t flee, it will turn and fight, thus the bite. If the dog is han-
dled properly, you can avoid most bites.
Very often, without realizing it, you can cause the dog’s bad
behavior. Improper handling, getting the dog overexcited,
pulling on mats, the commotion of the experience, and not
being used to other dogs all contribute to a dog’s behavior in
your shop.
A good way to learn the body language of different dogs is to
visit your local animal shelter. A variety of dogs are usually
available for adoption. Observe their behavior when you
approach them and talk to them. Observe their behavior with
the other people visiting the shelter. Another good source of
observation is the pets of friends and neighbors.
In your observations of animal behavior, be careful whom you
listen to. Owners tend to see only what they want to see. Many
behaviors can be misinterpreted. A fearful dog’s actions can be
seen as aggressive because he bites. An owner may view a pet’s
destructive behavior when the owner leaves (a result of separa-
tion anxiety) as the dog being spiteful. An owner may think
that a dog is having “accidents” in the house because it’s not
house-trained, when in fact the dog went to the door and sat,
waiting to be let out. As a groomer, it will be your job to deter-
mine the dog’s personality and develop a rapport with the dog
so you can efficiently groom it.
Let’s explore the different dog personality types. Keep in mind
that dogs can show signs of several of these personality types
in one grooming session!

Fearful
The fearful dog is the most misunderstood personality. Most
people will tell you that any dog that bites, growls, flares teeth,
or snaps is a nasty or aggressive dog. They’ll say you’re crazy
when you tell them that a fearful dog does the same thing. But

16 Introduction to Dogs
it’s true. Most owners of fearful or submissive dogs, if they
adopted the animal, automatically assume that the pet was
beaten. Although this can happen, not every pet adopted has
been abused. Most have never been introduced to new situa-
tions or socialized to new people or surroundings. Don’t
believe that all dogs that owners tell you were abused have
been abused.
A fearful dog always tries to flee a threatening situation.
If it can’t flee, it protects itself any way it can. The protection
often takes the form of snapping, biting, or turning and
growling a warning.
How can you recognize a fearful dog? Learn its body lan-
guage. Develop your powers of observation. A fearful dog may
try to get away from you and or even hide behind its owner.
Its ears may seem plastered back on its head. The tail may
be tucked between its legs. The dog may cower with sudden
movement or loud noises. It may seem tense (Figure 2).

FIGURE 2—Fearful dogs

may appear tense.

Introduction to Dogs 17
 Many fearful dogs tense up and put themselves on the alert
to bite when you pick them up. Why might that be? Stop for
a minute and think about your actions and what your body
language is telling the dog when you pick it up. Look at it
from the animal’s point of view. Some stranger is bending
over you, picking you up off the ground, lifting you up in the
air to who knows where, and placing you down into a tub or
onto the grooming table. Wouldn’t that make you a little bit
scared? Wouldn’t you see someone bending down over you as
a threatening action? Why should a dog be any different? You
would protect yourself the only way you know how, thus the
bite.
Meet Casey. Casey is a Welsh Corgi who came into my shop
to be groomed. His owners told me that Casey was a very
aggressive dog and that he might bite me. I thanked them for
being honest and went on to groom the dog. Sure enough,
I got bit. It wasn’t because the dog was aggressive; it was
because he was fearful, and I let my guard down.
When I first saw Casey, he growled at me when I got near
him. I took his leash and guided him to walk with me,
because he didn’t want to come into the back room. I spoke
nicely to him and, when I thought I had gained his confi-
dence, I tried to pick him up and put him in the tub. That’s
when he bit me. The reason this happened was because I
read Casey’s body language incorrectly. I thought he was
calm, I let my guard down, and I didn’t give him my full
attention. He read my body language, and bit me.
Casey immediately cried and urinated on the floor, showing
his fear. I didn’t abuse him for biting me, and I didn’t walk
away from the situation. I continued to lift him up into the
tub. Why would I do that? Because if I had backed down, his
biting tactics would have been reinforced, and I would never
have been able to groom him. Casey would have said to him-
self, “If I bite this man, he will go away and leave me alone.”
Instead, I showed him that there was nothing to fear. I spoke
nicely to him in a soothing tone. I gave him a bath and dried
him. Afterward, I checked his nails.
Today, Casey is like a different dog. He comes into the shop
looking for me. Most people would have made the same
mistaken assumption as the owner: He bites, therefore he is

18 Introduction to Dogs
aggressive. Casey tried to warn me and, when I wouldn’t let
him run away, he bit me. Once I showed him that there was
nothing to fear, his grooming experience was no longer a fearful
situation. I’m still cautious, because I know Casey has a fearful
personality. I continue to watch his body language for any indi-
cation that he is feeling afraid.
Fearful dogs won’t change overnight or in one grooming situa-
tion. With careful handling, and your awareness of their
personality, the fearful dog will become better and better.
As a result of being able to handle his personality correctly, I
can groom Casey with no trouble, and he has become a regular
customer. The owners are more relaxed and grateful, because
they never thought their dog could be groomed because “he
bites.” Another positive result has been the new customers
who have come to me as a result of the positive word-of-mouth
advertising from Casey’s owners.
Remember that this fearful dog was handled by an experienced
groomer. You might say, “I don’t want to get bit. How do I pro-
tect myself?” In a future study unit, we’ll discuss the proper
use of muzzles. A fearful dog can be muzzled during grooming.
Gradually, as you and the dog get to know each other and posi-
tive experiences are established, you may want to phase out the
use of the muzzle. However, until you’ve gained experience and
have become well versed in reading dogs, you should muzzle
any dog you’re unsure of. Remember that even an experienced
groomer can get bit.
Meet Mickey. Mickey is a Schnauzer. He had bitten several
groomers in his home area, and the only way he could be
groomed was at the veterinarian. The veterinarian would put
him under anesthesia and then groom him. The owner told me
Mickey was aggressive and that administering anesthesia was
the only way to groom him.
Mickey was referred to me through a friend. The first time I
groomed him, it took two people, and the dog was muzzled.
We couldn’t even complete his head because he wouldn’t let us
touch his ears. He was a wild dog. He tried to run away, jump
off the grooming table, bite, and twist out of the muzzle. He
became frenzied because he couldn’t escape. Aggressive? Not
at all. He was scared to death.

Introduction to Dogs 19
 From some of his violent reactions, one could conclude only
that Mickey was hurt or abused during former grooming
experiences. Dogs have a memory, and Mickey’s was strong.
Do other groomers injure dogs in their handling? There have
been cases, especially if the groomer gets bit, gets mad, or
grows frustrated with animal behavior that he or she can’t
control. That’s why it’s important for you to learn how to
handle dogs. You must never abuse a dog, mentally or physi-
cally. Yelling at a dog that’s afraid will only scare it more.
When talking to a hysterical or scared dog you must use
calm, soothing tones. Never raise your voice or yell at a dog;
it will only make the situation worse. If you can’t groom the
dog for whatever reason, explain it to the owners and have
them come for their dog.
Back to Mickey. After several months of careful handling and
increasingly positive experiences, Mickey can be groomed
without sedation. Body language is important with Mickey.
He will tense up and his lip will curl, which means, “Back off,
I can’t handle what you’re doing to me.” It’s time to give him
a chance to relax, and then go right back to what you were
doing and show him that there’s nothing to fear. Never allow
the dog to think that its negative behavior of growling, snap-
ping, or curling the lip has controlled you in any way.
Mickey comes in from out of town—an hour and a half
away—to be groomed. Each time he gets better and better.
Again, kindness, patience, and love make for a happier dog.
Be patient, because the acute cases require time. These dogs
can be groomed if you handle them properly and remember
to keep in mind both your safety and the dog’s.
Fearful dogs take work. But, once you get through to them
and show them they don’t have to be afraid, they’re your
friends for life.
Meet Gretchen. Gretchen the Poodle took one grooming
experience. She tried to growl when she was being combed
out. Once she was shown that she wasn’t going to be hurt,
she had fun. The owner came back and was amazed. She
couldn’t believe that Gretchen had behaved so well.

20 Introduction to Dogs
I helped the owner by showing her the proper way to remove
mats without hurting Gretchen. Gretchen and her owner are
both grateful. And Gretchen rarely comes into the shop
matted anymore.
Meet Dolly. Dolly, a Labrador Retriever, would put on the
brakes, dig into the floor, and refuse to move when she first
came to the shop. Her owner said that the dog was afraid,
that Dolly thought she was going to the vet. Again, it helps
the groomer to think like a dog. If the only reason your
master took you out of the house was to get a shot, wouldn’t
you act fearful?
We brought Dolly into the shop and, with the owner present,
showed her around and allowed her to “check out” the place.
She was more at ease once she realized that the place wasn’t
so frightening after all.
With gentle handling, tender loving care, and attention to
body language, you can groom fearful dogs successfully and
without incident. If you have a fearful pet come into your
salon, take your time with the pet. You may need to call later
appointments and move them back in time so you can devote
the time to the fearful pet. Improper handling, such as sud-
den movements and threatening postures and gestures (from
the dog’s point of view), causes the fearful dog to bite. When
you allow the dog’s fears to grow without relieving them or
when you treat the dog roughly because you think it’s aggres-
sive, you create the bad behavior in the dog. So, the next
time a dog reacts to you in a threatening manner, stop and
ask yourself what you did (from the dog’s point of view) to
deserve that reaction.

Submissive
The submissive dog lets others be in charge. It says, “You
take over. I can’t handle the role of leader.” The submissive
dog submits to those around it by hanging back, rolling over
on its back when a person or another dog approaches
(Figure 3), or urinating uncontrollably. It can be fearful.
(Remember our personality line and how some behaviors are
in the gray areas between personalities.)

Introduction to Dogs 21
FIGURE 3—Submissive
dogs will often roll over
when a person or another
dog approaches.

A submissive dog’s body language shows its submission.

It rolls over on its back as a reaction to a situation, not
because it wants to train you to rub its belly. It pulls its ears
back and hangs its tail down. It tries to flee from the situa-
tion. When it can’t, it trembles uncontrollably. A submissive
dog generally doesn’t bark, but it cries or whines if you han-
dle it in a threatening way. It’s the “baby” of the dog world.
Meet Brianna. Brianna is a Bichon Frise. She is nine pounds
of fluff. When she first came into the shop, she trembled
violently. I thought she was going to make herself sick. She
tried to escape by crawling up and over her owner’s back.
I asked the owner to stay to help build the dog’s confidence.
When Brianna saw the brush on the table, she tried to jump
off. I spoke to her in a soothing tone and put relaxing music
on the radio. When I tried to comb her out, she yipped and
cried; I thought I was killing her. The owner said, “Don’t
worry; she does that whenever you try to comb her. Her
sisters, a Cocker Spaniel and a Lhasa Apso, both beat up on
her. When she cries, I yell, and the dogs leave her alone.”
Then I understood. I thought like a dog: “If I cry and whine,
they’ll think I’m being hurt and they’ll stop. If I yip, they’ll
feel sorry for me and let me go.”
How would you handle this submissive dog? Would you give
in to her? Would you say, “It’s OK, sweetie; we’ll stop”? No!
You’ll have a very dirty dog. She will tremble more, like a

22 Introduction to Dogs
bowl of warm jelly. Eventually, you’ll turn her into a fearful
dog that will bite. You’ll help to create her bad behavior. So
what do we do? Just as I did with the fearful dog, I showed
Brianna that there was nothing to fear. I took the time to
listen to what her body language was saying: “I want to run.
I have no faith in myself to handle this. Please don’t make me
do this. I really don’t want to act this way, why am I? What
should I do?” As her groomer, I encouraged and praised her
when she was quiet and ignored her when she made a fuss.
I built up her confidence, in herself and in me. Just as you
would with a child, I showed her how to behave. She got
the idea and is a joy to groom today. Again, the owner left
amazed at the way the dog behaved for me. All I did was
listen to the dog, and pay attention to what she had to say.
Lack of confidence is a big indicator of the submissive per-
sonality. The dog can quickly slide toward fear when it’s
unsure of itself or toward happy-go-lucky when its confidence
builds.
Meet Mandy. Mandy is a Beagle. When Mandy came into the
shop her tail was dragging; she looked like she was being
taken to the last roundup. Her ears were back and her head
was down. When I took the leash, she immediately urinated.
The owner, of course, scolded her for her behavior. Mandy
cried.
I told the owner to ignore the behavior, that Mandy would be
fine. This dog, I read, would be better off without the owner
staying and coming down hard on her for her behavior, so
I asked the owner to come back later. I invested a little time
in Mandy, encouraging her and building her confidence. I let
her become used to the noises and commotion of the groom-
ing shop by leaving her in the crate.
Once a little confidence was built, her tail started to wag
slowly and she began to look at us. When she went home,
she was not only cleaner, but also happier for the confidence
we gave her.

Introduction to Dogs 23
 Happy-Go-Lucky
Happy-go-lucky dogs will remind you of a super ball. They’re
generally energetic. They look straight at you, and then back
to their owner, then back to you. Their posture is relaxed,
and they cock their heads back and forth if you talk them.
Happy-go-lucky dogs listen willingly. Generally, they’re fairly
confident; not much bothers them (Figure 4).

FIGURE 4—Happy-go-lucky
dogs tend to have a
relaxed posture with their
ears in a normal position.
They’re usually confident,
and they’re good listeners.

The ear position is normal. The tail wags back and forth in
the middle position, not up in the air or between the legs.
They’re sniffers, and they especially like to sniff new areas.
They tend to be jumpers, up and down like a super ball.
They’re the “pet me, pet me” type of dog.
Meet Lucky. Lucky is a Golden Retriever. She comes running
into the shop and says hello by jumping on me. Her tail is
wagging, knocking things over on my desk. Whenever I see
her, I think of a bouncing ball that never stops.

24 Introduction to Dogs
Lucky, believe it or not, can be tough to groom. She is very
excitable, and she wants to play. The last thing she wants is
to sit still in a tub and be washed and dried. She wants to be
in the thick of things; she is afraid to miss anything that’s
going on. The best way to begin with Lucky is to let her relax
in the crate. I never groom her immediately. I never make a
fuss over her while I’m grooming her. Why? Because that
would excite her, and the super ball would start bouncing
again. You can actually see it in her eyes. Her body shakes a
little in excitement, not fear. Her ears are standing straight
up, and she looks like she is going to explode with happi-
ness.
Lucky gets all the fussing and attention she wants when the
grooming is over. Once she made this realization, she began
behaving during the grooming so that she could get the
attention. We never have trouble grooming her when we read
her body language and keep her calm. After all this post-
grooming attention, is she wound up for “Mom” when the
owner comes for her? You bet. It’s like Grandma sending the
children home after spoiling them all day.
Meet Einstein, a Soft-Coated Wheaton Terrier. When he first
started coming to the salon as a puppy, he was a little
nervous, but overall a happy dog. Now that he is 13, he has
turned into a wonderful dog. He runs in full of excitement
and tugs on my grooming smock. He jumps onto the groom-
ing table and whines with excitement at seeing me. After a
little love session, I tell him “It’s time to work.” At this point,
I talk softly and calmly to him and he settles down for his
grooming. However, every so often I can see the excitement in
his eyes and in his body, and he starts to wag his tail and
shake a little. He just can’t control himself any longer. So
I let him off the table for another love session and a run in
the yard. Then it’s up on the table, and we finish. Sometimes
the happy-go-lucky dog just can’t control itself for the entire
grooming process, and you have to give the dog a break to
burn off a little steam.

Introduction to Dogs 25
 Dominant
The dominant dog is the most common personality. A domi-
nant dog is a confident dog; it doesn’t like to be controlled.
The dominant dog stares you straight in the eye. Its tail is in
a raised position. A male dog may lift his leg and urinate on
you; a female may urinate in front of you. The dog jumps on
you, trying to paw you and control you. It licks you. It takes
an object from you without hesitation. A dominant dog has
an “attitude” (Figure 5).

FIGURE 5—Dominant dogs

often keep their tails in a
raised position. They’re
confident and independ-
ent, and they’re some-
times hard to control.

When working with a dominant dog, it’s important that

you’re in charge of the grooming. However, the grooming will
go better if the dog thinks that it’s in control. This isn’t
always an easy task. These dogs often have a mind of their
own. One minute they’re fine with the grooming, and the next
they’ve decided they’re done, whether they are or not. You’ll
have to use a firm tone with these dogs.

26 Introduction to Dogs
Meet Indi, a Flat-Coated Retriever. When Indi comes into the
salon, she acts like she owns the place. She will walk up to
everyone and jump up on them. If she wants to go some-
place, she will go right through you if you’re in her way. If
you don’t make her think the grooming is her idea, she will
fight you on it. For example, when doing her nails I ask her
to shake, and then I do her nails when I have her paw. If
I just pick up the paw, she will fight and tug away, but by
making her think we’re doing “shake,” it’s her idea to give me
her paw.

Aggressive
The aggressive dog comes at you full force. They growl, snarl,
show teeth, bark, and bite. The difference between the fearful
dog and the aggressive dog is that the fearful dog tries to
escape if it feels threatened, whereas the aggressive dog
charges head-on, no matter what the consequences
(Figure 6).
FIGURE 6—Aggressive
dogs are growlers,
snarlers, barkers, and
biters. If they feel threat-
ened, they’ll attack
without hesitation.

Introduction to Dogs 27
 The aggressive dog bites with little warning. The tail position
is as straight-up as the tail structure allows. The hair on the
back of the neck and body, or the hackles, stands straight
up. Think of a plush carpet or velvet that has been brushed
in the opposite direction.
The dog’s eyes are constantly on you, watching every move.
Ears are positioned forward in warning. An aggressive dog
bites and doesn’t think twice about it. You shouldn’t try to
groom an aggressive dog until you’ve gained sufficient experi-
ence handling dogs, still realizing that there’s a good chance
you can get bit. It’s a good idea, if you choose to groom the
dog, to make sure the dog has had its shots. Ask the owner
to stay to help control the dog. Oftentimes the owner’s
presence will help keep the dog calm and under control.
Are you expected to become an expert behaviorist or a dog
psychologist? No. You’re expected to come away from this
program with an understanding of general dog behavior.
You’re expected to be able to observe a dog’s behavior and
determine the best way to handle the dog in the grooming
situation. Learning to assess a dog’s personality in this way
takes time and experience; you’ll learn from your mistakes.
Finally, you’re expected to be able to avoid getting bit by
reading a dog’s body language and handling each canine
personality correctly.
Take a few moments now to complete Self-Check 3.

28 Introduction to Dogs
 Self-Check 3
1. Describe the typical body language of a submissive dog.

__________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________

2. What is the main difference between the behavior of a fearful dog and an aggressive dog?

__________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________

3. Why are you learning how to handle dogs by personality instead of by breed?

__________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________

Check your answers with those on page 39.

Introduction to Dogs 29
 GENERAL HANDLING OF DOGS

Taking the Dog from the Owner

The first thing you must learn before you can start grooming
is how to take a dog from its owner. Some dogs run in happy,
some come in growling, and some have to be dragged in.
When the dog and the owner come in for the grooming
appointment, observe their behavior and their interaction
with each other. Notice how the dog enters the shop. Does it
have to be dragged? Does it come in willingly? Does it strut
in like it owns the place? Even if the dog is a regular cus-
tomer, events could have taken place since the last visit to
change its behavior.
When a client enters the shop, greet the human owner, and
then get on the dog’s level and greet the dog. Using the dog’s
name, make a fuss over the dog while the owner is there.
This accomplishes two things. It puts the dog at ease, and
it shows the owner how happy you are to see his or her pet.
It gives the owner a sense of confidence when leaving the
pet in your care.
Get the necessary information: the pet’s and owner’s names,
the owner’s phone number, and the veterinarian’s name.
Ask questions. It’s the only way to find out about your client
and the dog. To get the most information, ask questions
that require more than “yes” or “no” answers. “How are you
today?” “What kind of adventures has our friend gotten into
this week?” You may learn that the dog tripped on the steps
while chasing the cat, so you must be careful with its right
paw. You may learn that the dog has taken a trip to the vet
and isn’t happy about coming to see you. This valuable infor-
mation can help you handle the dog’s mood for the day.
Always ask if the animal is on any medication. This informa-
tion can alert you to any health concerns or to any potential
reactions to your flea products if, for example, the owner
wants the dog to have a flea shampoo.

30 Introduction to Dogs
Ask owners for specific details on how they want their dogs
groomed. Remember that they’re paying you for a service,
and they should get the results they want, unless, of course,
the health and well-being of the dog are at risk. The dog’s
needs come first.
However, keep in mind that the question method can backfire
on you. If your customer is a talkative or lonely person or
seems to need to vent some frustrations, you may end up
listening to that person all day. You’ll learn things about
husbands or mothers-in-law that you may not want to know.
Your “people skills” come in handy here. If it’s a slow day and
you feel like talking, offer the owner the chance to stay and
talk with you as you start to groom the dog. If it’s a busy day
and you have no time, politely ask the customer if you can
call when the dog is finished.
After you’ve said your hellos and asked your questions, you
need to deal with any grooming problems. A badly matted
dog may have to be shaved down or you may have to cut the
mats out. Fully explain the procedure you’ll use so that there
are no surprises when the customer picks up the dog. Refer
to your pictures on the wall. When asking customers how
they want their pet clipped, you can refer to photos of dogs
you’ve groomed in the past. Ask about different lengths. If the
pet isn’t matted too badly, then you should be able to leave
the pet’s hair a little longer. Ask the client what his or her
wishes are. If the client says she wants it an inch, you need
to clarify whether she means an inch left on the pet or an
inch taken off the coat. You’ll also need to determine what
style of cut the client wants. Does he want his Westie in the
breed-appropriate trim? Does he want it easier to maintain in
a one-length cut? Does he want the traditional type of head
or a different style?
Once you’ve asked all your questions, you’re now ready to
separate the dog from the owner. Gear your actions toward
the owner’s personality. The “I’ll see you later” owner leaves
with confidence. The “I’m in a hurry” owner gets in, gets out,
and demands speed due to his or her tight schedule. The
“whenever you get a chance” owner is laid-back and easy to
please. Then there’s the “separation anxiety” owner who is
afraid to leave the pet. This person generally projects feelings

Introduction to Dogs 31
 onto the animal, the Academy Award–winning actor, who
immediately trembles and shakes for the attention effect.
Just as every dog needs to be handled differently, so does
every owner.
You’ll take dogs from owners in different ways, depending on
the dog’s personality. And you thought it was going to be easy,
just take the leash and go! It’s not that simple. Remember that
the dog’s grooming experience actually begins before it gets to
you, in the way it was handled in the car, the way it was talked
to, bullied, or cooed over. You need to start the animal’s experi-
ence with the areas you can control.
If you make a sudden movement toward a fearful dog, grab the
leash roughly, and pull the animal quickly to the back room,
the dog is likely to bite you at some point during the grooming
process. You’ve already frightened the dog with your actions
and built mistrust in the animal. Nice going! Then, when you
get bit, you’ll blame the dog, just like the rest of the world.
Let’s start over.
Take the dog’s leash slowly and quietly. Bend down at the
knees, in a submissive position, and speak nicely to the dog.
Have the animal come to you. Then it’s the dog’s choice, and
the feeling that maybe you’re not a threat begins to build.
Develop trust. Slowly take the dog to the grooming room,
talking gently and nicely the whole time.
A submissive dog is taken from its owner in a similar way. If
not, the animal urinates because you intimidate him, and you
do twice as much work cleaning up the shop and the dog. If
the dog does urinate, ignore the behavior. If the dog urinates
on the floor, a lot of owners will either scold the pet or apolo-
gize for it. My usual response is to not make a big deal. Making
the statement, “It’s not the first time, and it won’t be the last,”
usually puts the owner at ease. After you get the dog back to
the kennel, clean up the mess.
The happy-go-lucky dog is tough. It comes into your shop and
is so pleasant and excitable that you make a fuss over it. You
get the dog more excited. Now he is jumping up and down,
running around, and he can hardly contain himself, like a
child who has had too much sugar. And you want to try to
get this animal to stand still for his grooming? Good luck.

32 Introduction to Dogs
Happy-go-lucky dogs should be treated calmly and almost
ignored. Talk to them in monotones and pet them gently,
don’t excite them in any way. Calmly and quickly take them
back to the grooming room before they can become excited.
A dominant dog should be taken from the owner and brought
back to the grooming room as quickly as possible. Don’t give
the animal a chance to “take charge” of the situation or to
feel like it owns the environment. Talk to it as little as possi-
ble. In grooming, not talking to the animal or making a fuss
is a tool that can help you handle certain dogs.
If you decide to groom an aggressive dog, require the owner
to stay. Have the owner take the dog back to a kennel if
you’re not ready for it immediately. Plan to groom an aggres-
sive dog as quickly as possible, keeping commotion and
interruptions to a minimum. Try to schedule the grooming for
when there are as few animals in the shop as possible. If you
can schedule the dog for a time when no other customers are
there, you’ll have a better chance of succeeding in the groom-
ing and not getting bit.

Kenneling the Dog: In and Out

To kennel a dog is to place it in a secure, restricted area such
as a crate, cage, or kennel. Why do we kennel dogs in the
grooming shop? Some might call it cruel. You may think so
yourself. Well, consider this scenario. You have four dogs
coming in at one time. You’ve groomed only one of them
before. Your assistant called in sick. You can’t groom all four
of them at the same time. The owners all say their dogs are
great with everyone. (Sure they are, when they come in con-
tact only with people they know and they never see any other
dogs.) You put all four dogs together. They’re running around
the back room sniffing each other. They begin to establish
who the boss is. Dogfight! You get bit while trying to separate
other people’s dogs, which are all your responsibility. One is
bleeding; you have to call the owner and pay for the veteri-
nary bill. Now what do you think of the idea of not kenneling
animals?

Introduction to Dogs 33
 Kenneling a dog offers the dog both physical and psychologi-
cal protection. You’re bringing it into a strange situation with
strange people and strange animals. The kennel offers the
dog a “den” in which to feel secure and safe while in strange
surroundings. Even if you start your business out small and
groom one animal at a time, a kennel provides a safe place
for the dog while you’re preparing for the next phase of
grooming, answering the telephone, or waiting for the owner
to pick up the dog.
You’ll find that many dogs have been “crate trained” as pup-
pies and are still familiar with the crate. The crate is one of
the best house-training tools available. When they’re not at
home, many owners keep their dogs safe by putting them in
crates. Therefore, many dogs are used to the crate and enjoy
their time in it.
Some larger dogs may not fit in the crates you have in your
shop. So it’s best to have an area set aside where you can
put large dogs, such as a bathroom or some other small
room. Make sure there’s nothing in that room that the dog
can get into and hurt itself with. You may also want to have
an eye-bolt secured to the wall. Then, if you have a dog who
is too large for your crates or who isn’t accustomed to being
in a kennel, you can secure the animal in one spot by hook-
ing a leash to the eyebolt and to the pet. Don’t use the pet’s
leash, because some dogs will chew their leads to try and free
themselves. Also, some states require that you inform an
owner if his or her pet will be tethered while it’s being
groomed. A simple sign in the entry way stating “your pet
may be restrained or tethered during the grooming process”
is enough to cover your bases.
Some dogs bark constantly while they’re in crates. A simple
“groomer’s solution” is to place a towel loosely over all sides
of the crate. This way, the dog has air circulation, but the
distractions at which he is barking are no longer visible.
How do you get a dog into a crate? You should kennel fearful
and submissive dogs in much the same way for different rea-
sons. When placing a fearful dog in a kennel, make sure the
leash and collar are left on the dog. Guide the pet to a lower
crate; never put a fearful or submissive dog up high. Leave
the leash hanging out of the door when you close the crate.

34 Introduction to Dogs
Why leave the leash on? Well, ask yourself how you’ll get a
fearful dog out of the crate if it’s afraid to come out on its
own. Will you just reach in, grab it, and pull it out? If so,
have your assistant ready to call 911. Just imagine a fearful
dog’s reaction to your reach when it’s cornered in a confined
place where there’s nowhere to flee. It will bite to protect
itself. However, if the leash is left on, you can gently pick up
the leash, open the crate door, and guide the dog out.
You’ll want to leave the leash on a submissive dog for a
different reason. How would a submissive dog react if a
stranger’s hand were to reach into the kennel to grab it? The
animal would cower in the corner, be difficult to get out of
the crate, and dig its nails in to prevent you from moving it.
Then the dog would urinate in the crate. If you had been
trying to take the pet out to its owner, guess what? You
would have to bathe and dry the dog again because of the
“accident” in the crate, a result of your handling it improp-
erly. (Remember never to blame the dog for your mistakes.)
If the leash is left on the dog, you can gently guide the
animal out of the crate.
A word of warning about leashes and collars: Dogs should
be supervised while the leash and collar are on them in the
crate. If they fuss or move around a lot, they can become
tangled in the leash and hurt themselves. Also, some pets
will chew their leads in half, making it difficult to remove
the pet. I suggest you invest in some inexpensive leashes,
including one or two made of chain. The chain ones are for
the dogs who will chew their leads if you leave their leash on
them. The other leads are to give the owner a new leash if the
dog destroys the first one.
If you have difficulty coaxing dogs into the crates, you may
want to remember another groomer’s secret. Place the dog
into the crate backwards; generally, you’ll have no problem
getting it in. Never force dogs in or out of the crates, or
injuries may occur. Talk nicely and calmly to the dogs; they’ll
respond.

Introduction to Dogs 35
 Happy-go-lucky dogs often walk into a crate and bounce right
back out. Be prepared to close the door quickly. It’s very
important to remove the leash and collar from these dogs,
because they’re especially likely to wrap the leash around
themselves. Then, when removing the dog from the crate, be
ready with the collar and leash. If you don’t put the leash
and collar on quickly, you’ll have an escapee on your hands.
A dominant dog usually walks right into the crate. If neces-
sary, gently grab the collar and guide the dog in. Remove the
collar and leash from a dominant dog before closing the crate
door. Again, when removing the dog from the crate, be ready
with the collar and leash.
If you make a mistake and the dog gets away from you before
the leash and collar are on, never chase after the dog; you’ll
lose that game. It may run from you, it may play the “cat-
and-mouse” game of coming within arm’s reach and then
taking off again, or it may feel threatened and try to protect
itself. Remain calm. Bend down in a submissive position,
turn your back, and pretend to be really interested in some-
thing. The average dog will come to see what you’re doing.
Don’t grab it immediately, or you’ll send the animal running
again. Wait until its guard is down and then place the leash
and collar on it.
You should leave the responsibility of kenneling the aggres-
sive dog to the owner. Most aggressive dogs can be controlled
by their owners. If not, don’t groom the dog.
It’s a good idea to pin a copy of the dog’s paperwork to the
crate or kennel. That way, if you or your assistant can’t
remember the dog’s name or what’s to be done, the paper-
work is there to remind you.

Returning the Dog to the Owner

When returning a dog to its owner, make sure the leash and
collar are on. Always walk the dog out to the owner. Dogs,
upon seeing their owners again, usually become excessively
excited, either to tell them about the great time they had or
to say “Thank goodness you rescued me.” If you were to try
carrying an excessively excited dog, there’s a good chance
that it would leap out of your arms and injure itself or you in
the process.

36 Introduction to Dogs
When the two of you walk out, make a fuss over the dog
and tell the owner how special his or her pet is. (Another
groomer’s secret.) Ask the owner if there’s anything unsatis-
factory about the job. Add that you would be glad to change
it if you can. A good grooming practice is to offer a seven-day
guarantee. Tell the owner that if he or she isn’t satisfied after
the dog goes home, you’ll gladly fix whatever the problem is
at no charge for up to seven days. Unfortunately, you can’t
replace hair that was cut too short or change the fact that
the dog had to be shaved down due to its condition. But
many items can be corrected. The result is a satisfied
customer.
Always let the owner know if you noticed anything on the
animal while you were grooming it. A sore, fleas, a lump, wax
buildup in the ears, anything the owner should know in rela-
tion to the dog’s health. The animal is your first concern. Its
comfort, safety, and well-being are your responsibility while
the dog is in your shop.
Take some time now to complete Self-Check 4.

Introduction to Dogs 37
 Self-Check 4
1. Why do groomers use kennels?

__________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________

2. Describe the process of taking a happy-go-lucky dog from its owner, crating it, and then
retrieving the dog from the crate.

__________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________

3. Why should you leave the leash on a submissive dog while it’s in a crate?

__________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________

4. Who should have the responsibility of kenneling an aggressive dog?

__________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________

5. Describe a method of securing a pet if it’s too large for a crate.

__________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________

Check your answers with those on page 40.

38 Introduction to Dogs
 Self-Check 1
1. Irresponsible breeding by inexperienced breeders
2. Fearful, submissive, happy-go-lucky, dominant,
aggressive

Answers
3. Fearful and aggressive

Self-Check 2
1. An organization that maintains the purebred canine
bloodlines in the United States
2. Long-legged breeds and short-legged breeds
3. The toy group
4. The hound group
5. American Cocker Spaniel
6. Seven

Self-Check 3
1. Ears back, tail down, rolls over on its back, and urinates
uncontrollably
2. The fearful dog tires to flee the situation before it bites;
an aggressive dog just bites.
3. Because every dog is different, and not all dogs of the
same breed are alike.

39
 Self-Check 4
1. For the animal’s security and safety
2. Calmly walk the dog back to the crate. Walk the dog in
and be prepared to close the crate door. Remove the
leash and collar. Place the leash and collar on the dog
before taking it out of the crate. Take the dog by the
leash to the owner.
3. The dog would cower in the corner and be difficult to get
out. It may then urinate in the crate, and then it would
have to be rewashed.
4. The dog’s owner
5. A small room, such as a bathroom, or an eyebolt secured
in the wall where you can tether a pet

40 Self-Check Answers