Sewing Machine Maintenance

Guide C-102
Susan Wright, Extension Clothing and Textiles Specialist
Jewell M. Limacher, Retired County Extension Director
College of Agriculture, Consumer and Environmental Sciences New
Mexico State University
This publication is scheduled to be updated and reissued 5/06. 

A well-made sewing machine-traditional or serger, new or old, used often or only

occasionally-will sew perfectly for many years if it is given proper care. It may need to
be adjusted or a part may need to be replaced, but a sewing machine that is given
proper maintenance and cleaned regularly seldom actually "wears out."
Sewing machines generally require the basic maintenance of cleaning, oiling, and
lubricating. These procedures are recommended in the use and care booklet that comes
with the machine. It is the best reference for the specific care required by your machine.
Some machines are designed to be oil-and lubricant-free so follow the directions in that
booklet carefully.
If you do not have an instruction booklet for your sewing machine, contact your local
sewing machine center to obtain one. If they do not have one in stock, write to the
manufacturer of the machine to obtain one. Be sure to give the machine name, model,
serial number and the approximate age of the machine.
GETTING AT THE PROBLEM
When you have trouble with your sewing machine, a good rule to follow is "Clean it
first." Many problems are caused by dust, lint or thread ends that have collected on the
working parts of the machine.
Simply brushing lint and dust from the machine each time it is used is a good way to
prevent many problems. Use the soft nylon brush that comes with the machine or a
narrow paint brush to dust away lint in the bobbin case, under the needle plate, and
around the feed dog. A needle or tweezers can be used to remove pieces of thread or
lint that cannot be brushed away. Cans of pressurized air are also available to blow dust
and lint away.
In time, lint and dust that are allowed to accumulate in a sewing machine can become
soaked with oil and/or lubricant and interfere with the operation of the machine. When
this gummy grime is removed, the machine will work more freely, and adjustment may
not be necessary. Removing this unwanted build-up requires more care and time than
everyday maintenance.
The following procedure does not apply to all electric machines-specifically those with
bearings packed in grease and chain-stitch machines. They do apply to older models of
electric lock-stitch machines and treadle machines. Check your machine instruction
booklet to determine the procedure recommended to clean it, then use this pamphlet
along with your booklet.
SUPPLIES AND EQUIPMENT
You need the following equipment and supplies for the job:
S Pie or cake pan for soaking parts in cleaning fluid
S Small screw driver
S Large screw driver
S Small adjustable wrench
S Hammer (optional)
S Small oil can (clean) for cleaning fluid
S Cleaning brush (narrow, nylon)
S Paring knife (or pocket knife)
S Long needle or small crochet hook
S Tweezers
S Cleaning cloths
S Fabric to test stitching
S Can of sewing machine oil (check your machine instruction booklet for the type
recommended)
S Tube of sewing machine lubricant (check your machine instruction booklet for the type
recommended)
S Small bottle or can of cleaning solvent that will not flash flame at temperatures below
120O F. It is usually available at gasoline stations or cleaning establishments. Never use
gasoline; it is highly flammable. Never use carbon tetrachloride; it is very poisonous.
S Newspapers
S Plastic wraps (household type)
S Rubber gloves
S Magnifying glass (optional)
S Flashlight (optional)
 
After assembling all supplies and equipment, unplug and move the machine to a
cleaning area that is well lighted. Protect the floor and table top with newspapers. A
good floor or table lamp to light the work area from over your left shoulder will be
helpful. A flashlight is also helpful in adding light in hard to see areas.
GENERAL CLEANING
As you clean the machine, it is best to clean one area at a time. Remove only the parts
that are involved and be sure to note where each part is from, its position, and which
side is top.

Remove all the parts possible in order to clean the machine  

thoroughly. Keep the parts in order to make it easier to re- 
place them.
When removing parts, remember that "left is loose and right is tight" on practically all
screws and bolts. When using a screw driver, put the pressure on the push, not on the
twist. If a screw will not loosen easily, soak it with cleaning fluid. Then set the screw
driver in the slot and tap sharply with a hammer before attempting to loosen. The
screwdriver blade should be as wide as the slot in the screw is long. Always use a
wrench-not pliers-on bolts.
First, remove the needle, presser foot, slide plate, throat plate, bobbin case, and the
face plate (if it comes off). Put them in the pan and cover with cleaning fluid. Set aside to
soak while cleaning other areas.
Next, wrap the motor (if necessary) and wire with plastic wrap to protect them from oil
and cleaning solvent. Be sure the machine has been unplugged!
Now, it is time to begin work to clean the machine head. With a sharp pointed tool,
clean out all oil holes. Then, with your hand, turn the handwheel to run the machine. At
the same time, squirt cleaning fluid into all the oil holes, on all bearings and on all other
places where one part rubs against or turns within another.

Bobbin Area -- If possible, remove the bobbin case to  

remove all lint and stray threads.
If the machine begins to run hard, it is a sign that dirt or lint has jammed inside  a
bearing. Continue running the machine and flushing with cleaning fluid until the dirt
and gummed oil are washed from the bearing. When the machine runs easily again, tip
the head and flush the parts underneath the machine-all oil holes, bearing and places
that rub against or within another. Continue running the machine by hand until it
functions smoothly.
Upper Thread Tension -- Pull a piece of cloth soaked in  
solvent back and forth between discs to clean
To remove any remaining dirt and oil, dip a cloth or brush in cleaning fluid and scrub all
parts of machine that can be reached. Use a needle, knife or other pointed instrument to
dig or scrap away any remaining gummed dirt or lint in the feed dog, around the bobbin
case, and in other areas.
Check the lower tension of the bobbin case and the upper thread tension discs. Pull a
thread under the tension of the bobbin to remove dirt. Pull a piece of cloth soaked in
cleaning fluid back and forth between the disc of the upper tension. Repeat with a dry
cloth to be sure no lint or thread is caught between them.
AREAS NEEDING ATTENTION
In addition to general cleaning, three areas need special attention. They include the
handwheel bearing and the clutch assembly, the needle -bar and presser  foot, and the
hook and bobbin areas assembly. When the handwheel assembly gets gummy and dirty,
it must be cleaned for the clutch to work properly. The clutch disengages the needle-bar
when winding a bobbin.
Some new sewing machines refill the bobbin in its regular position and a clutch is not
necessary. In such machines, it is not often necessary to remove the handwheel to clean
this area.
Bobbin and Hook Area
Lint is the primary offender in this area. The bobbin case can be removed on all makes
of machines. Use a dry brush to clean out all lint. Remove any thread that may be wound
up around the hook shaft. On many machines, the hook assembly can also be removed
for more complete cleaning. Place one drop of oil on the exterior perimeter of the hook
and the bobbin race to lubricate if after cleaning.
Bobbin Area -- Clean carefully to remove lint using  
a soft brush. Tweezers may be helpful in removing  
stray threads.
Face Plate Area
The face plate on most machines is held in place with one or two screws. By removing
these, the plate can be easily removed for cleaning of the needle-bar and presser foot
bar. On some of the newer machines, the face plate is a part of a housing that is
mounted on hinges, which makes it easy to move the entire housing away from the bars
and mechanisms behind it. No other parts need to be removed for cleaning in this area.
First use a dry brush to clean out all lint and other foreign material. A small piece of
cloth with a little solvent on it can be used to clean the needle-bar and presser bar of
any gummy grease.
After thoroughly cleaning, place a drop or two of oil on each shaft where it slides
through the housing. Oil all other moving parts according to your instruction book
before replacing face plate.
Face Plate Area -- Remove lint from faceplate area using a soft brush. A cloth  
dipped in solvent can be used to remove grease and grime.

Face Plate Area -- Place a drop or two of oil on moving parts  

where they slide through a housing or move against each  
other
Handwheel Area
To remove the clutch and handwheel, loosen the small screw in the face of the locknut
(the locknut is the part that is turned to the left to release the clutch for operating the
bobbin winder). Next, unscrew the locknut, and remove the washer and handwheel.
Most machines will have a washer that looks like one of the three shown. Some makes
will be slightly different. Notice the position of the washer so you can put it back in the
same position. You may want to make a small scratch to identify the side that goes
"out".
Different types of adjusting washers
The handwheel should slide off the shaft easily. If the machine is driven by an external
belt, this belt will have to be removed before the handwheel will come off. (If the
machine has an internal drive belt or the wheel obviously will not come off, do not
remove the handwheel.  Replace the parts you have removed and skip this area.) Gear
driven machines will have a gear on the inside of the handwheel.

Handwheel Area -- Loosen screw in the face of the locknut in order to remove the clutch
and handwheel
Clean the handwheel, washer, and shaft. Lubricate the shaft with two drops of oil and
place a small amount of grease on all gears. Reassemble the handwheel and clutch. If
the clutch fails to operate, either because it will not hold or fails to release, remove the
locknut again and turn the washer one half turn (180O) and reassemble. The clutch
should then work properly.
After thoroughly cleaning these areas, reassemble the machine and run it by hand. It
should run smoothly if all parts have been replaced correctly.
Do not plug the machine in until all the cleaning fluid is dry.
OILING AND LUBRICATING THE MACHINE
Allow the machine to stand overnight so excess cleaning fluid can evaporate before
oiling and lubricating it. Check your machine instruction booklet to determine the type
of oil lubricant to use and where to use them.
Some machines have bearings that are nylon or graphite-impregnated bronze and do
not require oil or lubricant. Also, some machines do not need oiling because they are
designed with oil impregnated in the bearing castings. If your machine does not require
oil, do not us it.
Do not oil the tension discs, the handwheel release or the belts and rubber rings on any
machine.
In the holes designated, and on all parts that rub against or within another, squirt a little
oil. Run the machine by hand to distribute the oil into all the bearings. Use oil freely
because all oil has been removed in the cleaning process. If there are any wool or felt
pads that feed oil to parts, be sure they are well-oiled.
For later oilings, one drop of oil on each bearing and in each oil hole is enough. It is a
good practice to oil the machine after each day's work or after 8 to 10 hours of use.
Even if you do not use your machine often, oil it occasionally to keep the oil from drying
and gumming.
If the machine requires a lubricant, lubricate the areas suggested. Use the lubricant
recommended  for your machine for best results.
After oiling and lubricating the machine, wipe away excess oil and reassemble the
machine. As you replace the parts that have been soaking in the pan, do not force
screws or parts into place. Check to be sure it is in the correct location.
CARE OF THE MOTOR
Lubricating the electric motor of your sewing machine according to the manufacture's
directions.
Several newer machines have electric motors with sealed bearings that never need
oiling. Lubricate motors that require oil or grease once a year. One or two drops per
bearing is sufficient; over-oiling may ruin the motor. A sewing machine company oil or a
good quality light oil is satisfactory to use. If you select a lightweight household oil, be
sure it says "non-gum forming" and "non-corrosive" on the container. On a grease-
fitted bearing, fill the grease cups once a year.
Check to see that all electric connections to the motor control and motor are tight. If the
cord covering is not in good condition, tape it with good quality electric tape or replace
the cord. The belt that connects the motor to the handwheel should have just  enough
tension to keep it from slipping. On some machines, the belt can be adjusted by slightly
shifting the position of the motor.
Take good care of the rubber driving ring or wheel on motors that drive machines by
friction contact with the handwheel. If this driving ring or wheel has become flat-sided
or unevenly worn, causing excessive vibration, replace it with a new one. Keep the
handwheel clean and dry and the driving ring adjusted firmly to the handwheel and in
line, so the machine will run with a minimum of vibration.
ADJUSTING THE MACHINE
Now thread the machine and sew, using scraps of fabric to test the stitching.
Needle
First, be sure the needle is the proper length. Use the needle length or number
recommended in your manual.
Second, use a needle with a diameter that is suitable for the fabric and thread size.
Charts in your operator's manual or in a sewing machine center give the recommended
size for sewing different thread sizes. Use of a larger diameter needle results in an
unattractive stitch with larger than necessary needle holes in the fabric.

Third, be sure the needle is straight and does not have a dull point or burr.
Fourth, choose needles for sewing special fabrics, such as the ballpoint for knits and the
wedge for leather.
The needle should be inserted in the needle-bar clamp, with the long groove side of the
needle on the small side as the last thread guide, just above the needle clamp. It should
be inserted all the way into the clamp until it hits the stop pin. On machine with
adjustable needle-bar housing, adjust the position of the needle-bar until the needle
goes through the center of the needle hole in the needle plate.
Needle Plate (Throat Plate)
Manufacturers of some machines recommend use of the needle plate with the round
hole for straight stitching and the elongated hole for the zig-zag stitch. Unless you use
the proper needle plate, you may experience skipped stitches when making a straight
stitch. This is especially true when sewing some synthetic fabrics. Check the needle
(throat) plate for rough places and remove them with an emery paper or cloth.
Feed Dog
The teeth on the feed dog should project above the needle plate so that the bottom of
the teeth, or serrations , are level with the top of the needle plate when the dog moves
the material before the next stitch is made by the needle.
A good general setting is one that results in 10 to 12 stitches per inch of seam. On very
thin and fine material, it may be necessary to use a shorter stitch for 14 to 16 stitches
per inch of seam. On leather or vinyl, a longer stitch may be more desirable, resulting in
6 to 10 stitches per inch of seam.
Presser Foot
There should be just enough pressure on the presser foot to hold the fabric on the feed
dog so that a uniform length of stitch is made. As a general rule, heavy fabrics, require
light pressure. Pressure may be increased by pushing down on an inner pin, or
decreased by releasing an outer ring. Other machines may have a thumb screw or a dial
to regulate pressure. Check your machine booklet for instructions on how to adjust the
pressure of our machine.
On slippery fabrics, loosely knitted fabrics, vinyl or velvet, a roller-type pressure foot
may result in better feeding than the standard presser foot.
When darning, either reduce the pressure on the presser foot or lower the feed dog on
machines with a drop feed button, or use a cover plate.
Thread Tension
Upper and lower tension must be balanced to produce a perfect stitch. The upper
tension is located differently on different machines. It may be on the face plate, on the
face of the needle-bar housing, on the front of the needle-bar housing, or on the upper
arm of the machine head.
The lower tension, located on the shuttle or bobbin case, is adjusted by a screw. If two
screws fasten the lower tension spring to the bobbin case, adjust by turning the screw
nearest the center of the spring- not the screw on the end.
If, during the cleaning, the lower tension spring has been removed or its adjustment
changed, the adjusting procedure is the same as in the ordinary use of the machine.
That is, assume the lower tension to be correct until proved wrong. Make all
adjustments on the upper tension.

If the lower tension has been disturbed, set both lower and upper tensions so there will
be a slight drag on each thread. Use the same size thread on both bobbin and spool.
Now, adjust the tension, take a look at the stitching the machine makes. To help you to
see the stitches clearly, use contrasting colors of thread on the top and in the bobbin.
Set stitch-length control for a medium length of stitch. Fold a 6- to 8-inch square of
sheeting or average weight cloth and stitch diagonally across it at an angle of about 45 o.

Now inspect the stitching. In a perfect stitch, threads are locked in the center, midway
between the two layers of cloth, with no loops on the top or bottom of the seam and no
puckers in the cloth.
Perfectly Locked Stitch
If loops of the bobbin thread show on the top side of the seam and the top thread is
straight, the upper tension is tighter than the lower. In this case, loosen the top tension.

Upper Tension Too Tight

If loops of the spool thread show on the underside of the seam and the lower thread is
straight, the upper tension is looser then the lower and should be tightened.

Upper Tension Too Loose