Making a
Double-Duty Tablesaw
W
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Double-Duty Tablesaw e d i t e d a n d d r a w n b y j i m r i c h EY
Fence clamp Fence box, 3/4-in.-thick plywood
Hole for vacuum
hose
T-track for
hold-downs
Block is
screwed
to back of
fence box.
Bottom of fence box
made from 1/4-in.-
thick HDPE
T-track bolt
Washer
HDPE fence face, Featherboard hold-
and nut
1/2 in. thick down, 1/2-in.-thick
HDPE
Fence transforms
tablesaw into a real Fence clamps to Vacuum hose
router table tablesaw fence.
Installing a router table in my tablesaw’s
extension table saved a huge amount
of shop space, but I needed to turn the rip
fence into a router-table fence, and figure out
how to collect dust. I solved the problem with an
auxiliary fence that is simple to build, fast to put
on and take off, and gives a neat way to collect
dust at the source.
The fence is basically a hollow box made from
3⁄4-in.-thick plywood that attaches to the tablesaw Fence faces and
fence with two universal fence clamps (Rockler. hold-downs slide
in T-tracks.
com; No. 31373). I used slippery high-density
polyethylene (HDPE) for the fence faces and
bottom, but melamine or plywood would work, too.
The faces are mounted on T-tracks so they can
be slid back and forth to create an opening for
different-size bits. They can also slide together to
create a zero-clearance effect, if desired. The T-track
above the fence faces is for hold-downs and stops.
I drilled a hole in one end of the fence to match
my shop-vacuum hose, which draws air through the
opening in the fence and almost eliminates dust.
The entire setup works great.
—David DiaMaN, Abingdon, Md.
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