3/14/2018 Leatherwork Tutorial: How to make a leather iPhone Flip Wallet | High on Glue

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Leatherwork Tutorial: How to make a

leather iPhone Flip Wallet

Download this pattern: *

please select

FREE or "pay what you want"

Tools used:
Strap End Punch
Straight Edge Ruler
Scalpel
head knife
heavy mallet
stitching groover
overstitch wheel
wool dauber
edge slicker or bone folder

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Step One: cutting the par ts

You will need a total of 4 pieces of leather in 2 different thicknesses (these measurements fit iPhone
4 and iPhone 4S):The large outside piece: 285mm by 87mm at around 2.5-3mm thickness. The inside
piece that holds the phone: 130mm by 87mm at around 2.5-3mm thickness. The two credit card slots
made from thinner leather: 97mm by 87mm and 77mm by 87mm at around 1.5mm [Link] can
use a scalpel or a head knife for cutting. Make sure you use the sharpest tools for nice & clean cuts.

Cutout

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You need to cut out a part of the inside piece (the one that holds your phone in place) to allow you to
take out the phone easier. I used a Strap End Punch but you can also just trace a half-circle and cut it
out with a scalpel. This is what it looks like after punching out the top cutout.

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Smooth esh side

You can use gum tragacanth to make the flesh side of the leather smoother.

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Stamping the inside piece

Moisten the leather piece to prepare it for stamping

Stamping

Once it’s almost dry you can place the stamp on the leather and give it a good whack with a heavy
mallet. If your leather is too wet, the impression won’t be as crisp. Generally it’s a good idea to wait
for the leather to almost return to its original colour before you stamp it.

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Cut rounded corners

Use a scalpel to cut a rounded corner. I used a 1cm square as reference so that’s the corner radius.

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Glue par ts in place

It’s a good idea to glue the parts in place before sewing. Proper alignment is very important if you
want the wallet to look good.

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Add stitching groove

Use a stitching groover to add a grove as a guide along both sides.

Add stitching groove

Be careful! The other side won’t need a groove all the way along the edge. You can stop where the
bottom piece of leather ends on the other side.

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Add stitching spaces

Use an overstitch wheel on one side as a guide for your stitches. I use them as guides when hand
sewing as well as machine sewing.

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Sew the par ts together

Once you’re done sewing (if you need instructions, check out my tutorial on this site), use a lighter to
burn the ends of the thread to keep them from fraying.

Cleaning up

Cleaning up the stitches afterwards using the same overstitch wheel helps to give the stitches a good
& even appearance.

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Fitting & shaping

I use a Belkin plastic iPhone case to stretch the leather into shape. I find that it works better than
using the phone because I don’t have to worry about ruining it with moisture and having it slightly
bigger than the phone also makes the shape more ideal (the phone will slide in and out a bit easier).
You could also use the phone itself or just stretch the leather into shape with your hands.

Cutting the edges

You want to have the edges align perfectly so cut or sand down the edges to make them as even as
possible

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D yeing the edges

Use a wool dauber and dark dye around the edges of the wallet

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Re ning the edges

Use a edge slicker or bone folder and move it back and forth along the edges to make them smooth.

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Seal & nish

Use your leather finish of choice to seal and waterproof the leather. You can use an oil or one of the
other available finishing products.

Finished Flip Wallet

Finished wallet: closed.

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Finished Flip Wallet

Red stitching, natural veg-tanned leather and black edges.

Finished Flip Wallet

The inside of the wallet

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Finished Flip Wallet

Inside: close-up

Finished Flip Wallet

edges

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Finished Flip Wallet

stitching and hand-cut corners

Hope this post will help some of you to make one of these wallets. If you tried it, please let me know
in the comments! If you want to show off your work, feel free to add a link to a photo, too.

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Related

How to start working with Making a tri-fold wallet from How to make a leather wallet
leather on the cheap! one piece of leather inspired by "The Secret Life
June 22, 2012 January 29, 2015 of Walter Mitty"
In "Tutorials" In "Patterns" February 1, 2014
In "Patterns"

Tutorial: Carving the original Apple logo into leather Hand Sewing Leather: How to thread your needles

53 thoughts on “Leatherwork Tutorial: How

to make a leather iPhone Flip Wallet”

John says: December 2, 2012 at 4:55 PM

Where do you buy your leather pieces at? It looks like you are starting with nice, clean-
cut thick leather strips, and I haven’t been able to find them. Could you please share
where you can purchase these sheets?

Reply

Attila says: December 3, 2012 at 8:14 AM

Hi John,

You can get vegetable tanned tooling leather from places like
[Link]

However, they usually don’t come in neatly cut strips.

To get the clean cuts you can use either a really sharp head knife (round
knife) or to make it even easier, you could use a Craftool Strap Cutter and set
it to the required width. Either way, you’ll have to cut the pieces yourself and
even with the Strap Cutter you’ll need to at least have one straight edge to
guide the cutter along.

I hope that helps. Let me know if you need more info

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Reply

pou says: February 22, 2014 at 3:21 AM

Another place to get a bunch of different leather hides is ORTU

[Link] (they’re out of LA).

Reply

Nancy N. says: December 14, 2012 at 8:59 AM

Gorgeous!

Reply

Brad says: January 9, 2013 at 12:14 PM

Yikes! Thats $171.46 without tax just for the tools. Not to mention the leather and any
other additional tools you might need. I’m definitely interested in doing this because i’m
sure i would try my hand at other things, but it seems like a hefty investment to get
started.

Kind of a bummer ):

Reply

Attila says: January 9, 2013 at 12:33 PM

Hey Brad,
Yes, that is a lot if you just want to make this and nothing else. But you could
do this with less tools and leave out some of the steps if you just want to try
to make this.
That’s why I posted another tutorial here where I used less tools and leather
from an old bag. That can get you going before you start spending a lot of
money on tools and materials….

At the end of the day, like most hobbies, it’s not easy to do it all for free unless
you inherit the tools from relatives or friends

Reply

Porter says: May 11, 2016 at 8:08 AM

You can get leather off of eBay at very low cost, tools too. Also for starters
tools check the local hobby stores and the Boy Scout store. The scouts do
leather crafts. Should be one within driving distance or online. I make knife
sheaths for the knives I make and I don’t have $50 worth of tools and they

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work fine. With a little farm sense you can make some of your own tools to fit
your needs.

Reply

Alan says: December 12, 2016 at 5:28 AM

BRAD yes it is, some money, but your friends will love what you make for
yourself and before you know it you will be making things for every body and
that will pay for all the tools you want . start with just what you can get by
with and then add as you go. wont be long you will have a nice little business
going.. most of the things you need to start you my have and don’t even no
you have.. utility knife, ruler , pencil , a sharpened nail to make holes ,
hammer , needles ,thread .. that is about all and a plain .. there you go !

Reply

Brad says: January 9, 2013 at 2:08 PM

I was thinking after I commented earlier, and I definitely forgot to thank you for sharing!
I’m sure it’s taken a lot of time and effort to make these things and acquire the tools and
materials as well as the skill it takes to create things like this.

The quality of work here is actually very high given the kind of leather and the attention
to detail like the stitching. Comparing to a company like Ettinger, buying the tools and
materials almost seems worth it since you’ll be making something you’d be paying
almost double for anyway. I guess it makes you appreciate it more too.

BTW- I think it would be cool to make some videos. I’m not sure if it’s your thing, but i’d
really be interested to see your process. Thanks again!

Reply

Quenten says: January 12, 2013 at 12:09 AM

Great tutorial! Love seeing others process, the only thing I would have done differently
was sand the edges for a more uniform look instead of using the knife which leaves the
edges a bit jagged. Otherwise great product.

Reply

Attila says: January 12, 2013 at 8:34 AM

Thanks Quenten. Yes, that’s a good idea!

Reply

Big says: January 17, 2013 at 6:39 AM

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Hey, what glue do you use to stick the leather together before you go ahead and stitch?

Is it just a regular PVA or a specific leather glue

Thank You

Reply

Attila says: January 17, 2013 at 10:38 AM

You can use regular PVA glue or pretty much anything that will hold the
pieces together for long enough. There are plenty of craft glues that can be
used for leather, too.

Reply

Katy Sutherland says: June 14, 2013 at 5:25 AM

Hi! Love the tutorial! I have been looking for something that has finishing edges like this!
I was wondering though, do you think this edging technique would possibly work on
vinyl?

Reply

Attila says: June 14, 2013 at 10:28 AM

Thanks Katy,
I haven’t tried it with vinyl so I don’t know. The way it works with leather is
that the heat is creating the smoother edge. So I assume that it would work
but it would depend on whether you can get enough heat into the vinyl…

Reply

Reagan Trevino says: July 1, 2013 at 2:47 PM

This is so awesome! I’m very, very interested in leatherwork and couldn’t have asked for
a better resource of information to start! Thanks so much for such a comprehensive and
concise guide!

Reply

Eva Mugisa says: July 20, 2013 at 7:34 AM

Hi,

Name’s Eva and writing from Uganda. I recently enrolled for a course in leather work at a
local university back here, but I can’t find good tools on the local market. I see you have
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some pretty neat knives and stuff you’re using, and I’d like to know if they come as a kit,
and if so, what else does the kit contain, where can it be got and at how much?

Pse send your recommendations- am majoring in bag-making.

Thx

Reply

Attila says: July 20, 2013 at 8:14 AM

Hi Eva,
I haven’t tried any of the kits, I got each tool as I needed it. Most of the tools I
got from local leatherwork supply places here in Australia and some from
Japan:
Check out the tools and kits at Goods Japan

I don’t know what’s available in Uganda but some online stores do ship
internationally. [Link] is a good place to start if you
want to see what’s available. They have Starter Sets that include most things
you will need.

You can check out the tutorials on this site for the things I use. I try to always
add a list of tools for each project.

However, shipping costs might be too high to get these things sent to you
from overseas. I would recommend that you check with your University to see
if they know a local supplier (and maybe have student discounts?).

Good luck with your course!

Reply

baz says: October 7, 2013 at 5:30 PM

Tandy leather has branches in the USA, Canada in mostly large cities, but
shipping to Uganda is too much from both countries. US shipping still min
25$ for small stuffs to 70$ for 6ibs, Shipping from Canada is the highest,
when it is more than 250gmm. They have branches in or dealers to
Australia(high shipping cost too), in UK(probably less shipping, but price
higher than US and Canada and also has dealer in spain too. check it from
[Link]
usd/home/locations/[Link]

BTW, Tandy leather import most of the stuffs from Taiwan. some from China,
India, Japan etc [Link]

as he said goods japan has high quality Japanese mostly, but from IVAN
taiwan too. Goods Japan has ebay store too.
[Link]

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I live not far from Tandy leather store in Canada and buy mostly from there,
but bought some stuffs from goods japan and other companies.
I do different hobby works and leather craft of them to pass time.

Reply

Charles Canillas says: August 6, 2013 at 11:50 AM

Great job. I’ve just got into leather working. I love it. Made a few wallet kits, but want to
make a good wallet from scratch. Where would I get patterns for it. Wish you had a
tutorial on making a mans wallet.

Reply

Attila says: August 6, 2013 at 3:29 PM

Thanks Charles. You could just cut the straight pieces with the
measurements I put at the beginning of this post and add the rounded
corners once you have cut the strips of leather. Should be easy without a
pattern. I’ll see if I have time to make a pattern file and upload it in the
coming days.
Check back again in a few days

UPDATE: here’s the pattern as a pdf

Reply

Jake says: November 12, 2013 at 4:40 AM

Thank you for the great tutorial.

What keeps the cards in the deeper, rear pocket from sliding down below the lip? Is there
stitching midway down (card length)? Nice wallet but I wouldn’t want my cards to slide to
the bottom of the pocket making them difficult to remove.

Reply

Attila says: November 12, 2013 at 9:54 AM

Hi Jake,
there’s no stitching to keep the back cards from sliding all the way down but
the tension of the stack of cards keeps them where you put them. So as long
as you don’t slide them all the way down, they’ll stay where they are.
I usually just put rarely used cards in the back and slide them out of the way
and only have the 2-3 cards I use most in the front pocket.
You could add stitching, too. But if you do, make sure that the thread isn’t too
thick, otherwise your front pocket will have a little “bump” where the cards
have to slide past. You could also add a stitching groove to prevent that from
happening (by lowering the thread into the leather).

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Reply

Edward Santoro says: November 15, 2013 at 1:12 PM

Nice Work. Large skiving machines are very expensive, but you could use a hand-held
skiving tool to thin the leather a bit, maybe 1mm thinner. This would allow the leather to
be more supple and less stiff, which would allow for easier utilization of the pockets. One
problem with thick and stiff credit card pockets is that there is a risk of the cards
cracking under pressure. When using a hand-held skiving tool, the resulting surface will
not be perfectly smooth, a problem that can be mitigated with a quick sanding.

Also, anyone who wants to try this project, without investing in a whole side of leather,
could easily buy suitable scrap leather from a local leather worker. If you are in the US,
you could contact someone on the [Link] forum, though the
forum is international.

Reply

Attila says: November 15, 2013 at 3:18 PM

Thanks for the comment, Edward. Great information! I haven’t tried sanding
after hand-skiving, yet. Will do that before spending a few hundred on a
bigger skiving tool.
I haven’t had an issue with my cards breaking/cracking but that might be a
problem for some people.

Thanks again
Attila

Reply

ahevaeva says: December 14, 2013 at 4:48 PM

Great tutorial! Thanks for sharing

Reply

ferb fletcher says: December 18, 2013 at 11:03 PM

Hi, Im interested in getting started and love your tutorial. One thing is not clear to me.
Your sewing looks perfect. Is it a machine? If by hand do you have to punch holes first?

Ferb

Reply

Attila says: December 19, 2013 at 9:09 AM

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Hey Ferb,
thanks! The sewing is done by hand. I put together a guide that shows you
how to get the sewing done:
[Link]

You can pre-punch the holes with a stitching chisel if you don’t want to use an
awl. Those things can be found in leathercraft stores like
[Link] or even on amazon.

Doing the stitching by hand has a few advantages… It looks nice and it will
last longer

Reply

Jaye says: January 5, 2014 at 9:07 PM

With a little burnishing you’d have an extremely professional looking product!! I’ve found
it’s always the little finishing details that let down the final product… Give it a go, you’ll be
amazed at the difference!

Reply

Attila says: January 6, 2014 at 7:12 AM

Thanks Jaye! What do you recommend for burnishing? Plain water? Saddle
soap? Beeswax? Something else?
I haven’t tried all of them yet and I haven’t found my favourite way of
burnishing either. My results have been a bit inconsistent

Reply

Dean says: February 2, 2014 at 7:21 AM

I use a home made mixture of 50% beeswax and Neatsfoot Oil.

You can get neatsfoot oil from Tandy or any place that sells horse
supplies. I get mine from a farm supply store for $4.00 US a pint.

Just melt the beeswax and add the neatsfoot oil while the wax is
still warm.
I store the mixture in an old cat food tin.

Reply

zayne says: February 19, 2014 at 11:47 AM

Great finished product! The only thing I had a question about is how you got the leather
moulded to fit the iphone case. Did you wet the leather and use a bone folder, or just your
fingers to get it to keep shape? Or was there another technique used?

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Reply

Attila says: February 19, 2014 at 11:55 AM

Thanks Zayne, I didn’t really mould it to the phone. I just pushed it into shape.
You could add a little moisture so that it keeps its shape when the phone is
not inside the case. That’s personal preference. If you decide to wet mould it,
you might want to make sure that you don’t add moisture in the part that
folds over. You don’t want that part to get too stiff.
You could also wet-mould only the top part before sewing the wallet together.
Almost a mix of something like this: [Link]
the-4iphone4-leather-case/ and the flip wallet.

Reply

Ruth says: December 4, 2014 at 8:52 PM

Does it have to be vegetable leather?

Reply

Attila says: December 5, 2014 at 7:33 AM

Hi Ruth, it doesn’t have to be, but vegetable tanned leather has a nice
stiffness to it and it ages really nicely. You could make this with a softer
leather but when you fold that open, it’ll flop around much more (sideways
and in all sorts of directions). The stiffer veg-tan makes that a straight flip-
open motion

Reply

dan says: March 16, 2015 at 6:02 PM

Please help me with making my own custom stamp

Reply

Attila says: March 16, 2015 at 7:49 PM

Hey Dan, check out [Link] for affordable custom

stamps

Reply

yosi says: May 12, 2015 at 10:16 AM

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Hi Atilla.. I am a beginner to leather craft and I find that the 3mm veg tan leather is to
thick and stiff to fold. I wonder if is there some stuff to make it a little bit smoother. Or
what an ideal thickness of the veg tan for mobile phone pouch and wallet?

Reply

Attila says: May 12, 2015 at 8:37 PM

I find 3mm a bit thick sometimes. I’d recommend you try and get the thinnest
veg tan you can find. Around 1.2-1.6mm works well. If you can find it,
kangaroo leather is another good option

Reply

Erick says: July 9, 2015 at 5:30 AM

Thank you so much for taking the time to put this template together for us!!!!
You are awesome!!!!!

Reply

Kush Gupta says: August 28, 2015 at 1:44 AM

Great tutorial! Would lambskin leather work as well as the veg-tan? I just got some
itailan lambskin leather and was wondering if I could make the case out of it.

Reply

Attila says: August 28, 2015 at 6:21 PM

As long as it’s stiff enough to make sliding the phone in and out easy enough,
it should work with all kinds of leathers.

Reply

Mette Andersen says: August 31, 2015 at 7:11 PM

Hello! Me again (: I would like to pay for the pattern I would like to download, but I don’t
usually use paypal and honestly find it a little confusing. Is there any other way?

Reply

Mette Andersen says: August 31, 2015 at 7:40 PM

Between, I tried to get the pattern for free, but nothing showed up in my inbox
on my email…

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Reply

Attila says: August 31, 2015 at 10:55 PM

Hey Mette, I have just sent you an email with the files. Hope that
helps!

Reply

Mette Andersen says: September 1, 2015 at 5:10 PM

Thank you very much! But I still wanted to make a little

donation or pay for your work.. Is there any other way
than Paypal?

Reply

Attila says: September 2, 2015 at 6:12 AM

That’s very kind, thank you! One other way

would be if you’re using [Link] you
could bookmark the link below and click on
that before you order anything from
Amazon. It won’t cost you extra but it’ll add
a small percentage to my gift card balance
( [Link]
_encoding=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=93
25&linkCode=ur2&tag=attilaacs-20 )
Thanks again!!!

Mette Andersen says: September 10, 2015 at 12:04 AM

Hello! So I got your pattern for the Leather iPhone flip wallet. But I have problems with
printing it in the right size. But I would be able to make the right size if you answer this
question: If I place my iPhone in the middle of the pattern, where it should be, how many
centimeters is there from the “edge” of the iphone to the edge of the pattern? Ps. Sorry
for the tricky way of explaining but I hope you understand^^”

Reply

Attila says: September 10, 2015 at 11:05 AM

Hi Mette,

the actual dimensions of the pieces are here:

The large outside piece: 285mm by 87mm
The inside piece that holds the phone: 130mm by 87mm

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The two credit card slots made from thinner leather: 97mm by 87mm and
77mm by 87mm

The iPhone 4 and 4S dimensions are:

115.2 mm x 58.6 mm x 9.3 mm

So that leaves 0.75cm left and right and about 0.72 top and bottom (plus extra
for the area that folds in the middle). Hope that helps, but I’d use the
dimensions above as a starting point if you want to adapt it for a different
phone for example.

Reply

Bowie says: December 26, 2015 at 10:54 AM

Hi Attila, this is a very nice tutorial! Thank you!

I have just got a question, I wonder how do you determine how many space you leave on
the side from the edge of the phone to the edge of the leather and the extra space for the
middle folding area? Cause I want to make a similar phone wallet but it’s not an iPhone
4, wonder how should I adjust the dimension for different phone. Thank you again!

Reply

Attila says: December 27, 2015 at 5:52 AM

Hi Bowie,

Thanks for the comment! The space I leave is a bit of trial and error and
depends on the thickness of the phone as well. With this one, I made a few
versions before settling on the width. Most newer phones will be much wider
so it doesn’t happen to match the width of a credit card anymore. Here’s a
version I made for the iPhone 6 (the smaller one):
[Link]

The middle folding area can be a pretty big range and still work well. Just
make sure you leave around 0.5-1cm at least so it’s not too tightly wrapped
around the top of the phone.

Hope that helps a bit. Sorry I can’t be more specific. It was mainly trial &
error

Reply

TJ Chew says: April 21, 2016 at 4:48 PM

love the work that you do! simple yet elegant. keep it going!

Reply

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Julia Dawn Mason says: July 29, 2016 at 2:34 PM

Hi Attila,
Thank your for the pattern download, When I get paid I am going to order some leather
and make a case for my new phone, it is not a Iphone but I printed out the first page at
85% of size from the pdf and my phone fits very nicely on that print out. When I get it
finished I will send a photo of it.

Reply

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 Made by Attila Acs - Gold Coast, Australia - 2017

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