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Understanding Wave Types and Properties

This document discusses different types of ocean waves. It describes progressive waves and standing waves, factors that influence waves like wind and tides, and how wavelength determines the size and shape of wave orbits in different water depths. It also defines sea, swell, and surf waves, and summarizes the equations for wave frequency, period, and height. Finally, it briefly mentions wave spectra, forecasting, and the triggering of tsunamis by underwater earthquakes and avalanches.

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20 views4 pages

Understanding Wave Types and Properties

This document discusses different types of ocean waves. It describes progressive waves and standing waves, factors that influence waves like wind and tides, and how wavelength determines the size and shape of wave orbits in different water depths. It also defines sea, swell, and surf waves, and summarizes the equations for wave frequency, period, and height. Finally, it briefly mentions wave spectra, forecasting, and the triggering of tsunamis by underwater earthquakes and avalanches.

Uploaded by

asyhanggraini
Copyright
© All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as DOCX, PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd

Waves

Waves are some water that


Figure 1. Wave Orbits
move. There are two general wave
categories: (1) Progressive waves
and (2) Standing waves. Things that
influence waves are meteorological
forcing (wind, pressure),
earthquake, and tides. Wave length
determines the size of the orbit of
wave. Deep water wave is the
condition if water depth > water base, then the wave have more circular orbit.
Transitional wave, If the water depth < wave base but also the wave depth > 1/20. So
there intermediate-shaped orbits. Shallow water, the condition when water depth <
1/20 of wave length then orbits are more flattened.

Progressive Wave

Sea : irregular waves in the area


of generation
 Swell : more regular (the
wave is more quiet) waves beyond
area of generation
 Surf : waves that have
Figure 2. Sketch of Sea, Swell, Surf
reached the coast, grow in height,
and break

Assumed that the surface thin layer, the flow is 2-Dimensional, the Coriolis and the
viscosity are neglected. With these assumption, so the surface elevation (ζ) is
𝜁 = 𝑎 sin(𝑘𝑥 − 𝜔𝑡)
Where, ω is wave frequency that related to wave number (k) by the dispersion relation.
𝜔 = 𝑔𝑘 tanh(𝑘𝑑)
In deep water the dispersion equation will be
𝜔2 = 𝑔𝑘
And in shallow water:
𝜔2 = 𝑔𝑘𝑑
And in this case, the period (T) always constant. Non-Linier Wave happen when the wave
breaking. Assuming the wave amplitude was infinitely small ka= 0. If ka≪1 but not infinitely
small, the wave properties can be expanded in a power series of ka. Significant Height Wave,
the mean of 1/3 largest waves data is called significant height wave. The highest third
of waves can be measured by :

1
𝐻1 = 4(𝜁 2 )2
3

Wave Spectrum if we do some simplifications to describing the surface. The simplifications


lead to the concept of the spectrum of ocean waves. The spectrum gives the distribution of
wave energy among different wave frequencies or wave lengths on the sea surface. Wave
Forecasting when we do some forecasting using some method, for example: In the
deep water, use Hind Casting by convert wind’s data to wave data. But around offshore
area, we use wave transformation. Wave transformation happen when the shallower
the water, the greater the interaction between the wave and the bottom alters the wave
properties, eventually causing the wave to collapse. The wave that collapse then form
some refraction and diffraction.

Tsunami is a phenomenon where long wave or


period wave happen because there is movement
on the base. To find the equilibrium after the
earthquake, the wave moving in all direction.
Tsunami can be caused by underwater fault
movement, underwater avalanches, and
underwater volcanic eruptions.

Figure 3. Tsunami triggering mechanism


KL 2205
PHYSICAL OCEANOGRAPHY
Alamsyah Kurniawan, Ph.D.

Aisyah Anggraini
15516027

OCEAN ENGINEERING PROGRAM


FACULTY OF CIVIL AND ENVIRONMENTAL ENGINEERING
INSTITUT TEKNOLOGI BANDUNG
2018
KL 2200
ANALISIS REKAYASA DASAR II
Alamsyah Kurniawan, Ph.D.

Aisyah Anggraini
15516027

PROGRAM STUDI TEKNIK KELAUTAN


FAKULTAS TEKNIK SIPIL DAN LINGKUNGAN
INSTITUT TEKNOLOGI BANDUNG
2018

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