ESSNTIALS…
Observe different components in a garment taking Pictures including
Seam Finishes
Ease for Various Silhouettes
Each one of you has to take the body measurements [upper body] on the
dress Form and of any individual you find (with a picture)
Anything you do in this Module can be recorded or pictured for
Documentation later.
Reference Book- H J Armstrong
Basics of Pattern Making
The development of a garment comprises of different process. Fit is the most
important factor leading to the final acceptance or rejection of a garment. Fit
must be designed into the original pattern through subtleties in the pattern that
provide fullness unobtrusively at appropriate locations to accommodate body
bulges in a flattering manner (Hudson). Good customized fit is dependent on
the pattern drafting incorporating various shapes and proportions of the
individual customer. With the onset of the Industrial Revolution, standardized
patterns were essential to the success of ready-to-wear clothing.
Pattern making is an art. It is the art of manipulating and shaping a flat piece of
fabric to conform to one or more curves of the human figure. Pattern making is
a bridge function between design and production. A sketch can be turned into a
garment via a pattern which interprets the design in the form of the garment
components.
A pattern is flat while the body is not. The body has height, width and depth.
Within this roughly cylindrical framework there are a series of secondary
curves and bulges, which are of concern to the pattern maker. Darts are the
basis of all pattern making. They convert the flat piece of cloth into a three
dimensional form, which fits the bulges of the body.
A patternmaker typically makes a pattern from a flat sketch with measurements
or a two dimensional fashion illustration. The basic pattern is the very
foundation upon which pattern making, fit and design are based. The basic
pattern is the starting point for flat pattern designing. It is a simple pattern that
fits the body with just enough ease for movement and comfort (Shoben and
Ward).
Methods of Pattern Making
Pattern making involves three methods-
* Drafting
* Draping
* Flat paper patternmaking
Drafting: It involves measurements derived from sizing systems or accurate
measurements taken on a person, dress or body form. Measurements for chest,
waist, hip and so on, and ease allowances are marked on paper and
construction lines are drawn to complete the pattern. Drafting is used to create
basic, foundation or design patterns.
Draping: It involves the draping of a two dimensional piece of fabric around a
form, conforming to its shape, creating a three-dimensional fabric pattern. This
muslin is transferred to paper to be used as a final pattern (Armstrong). Ease
allowances for movement are added to make the garment comfortable to wear.
Advantage of draping is that the designer can see the overall design effect of
the finished garment on the body form before the garment piece is cut and
sewn. However, it is more expensive and time consuming than flat pattern
making.
Flat Pattern Making: It involves the development of a fitted basic pattern with
comfort ease to fit a person or body form. A sloper is the starting point for flat
pattern designing. It is a simple pattern that fits the body with just enough ease
for movement and comfort (Shoben and Ward). Five basic pattern pieces are
used for women’s clothing. They include a snug-fitting bodice front and bodice
back with darts and a basic neckline, a sleeve and a fitted skirt front and back
with darts. However, as fashion changes frequently women’s styles fluctuate
frequently. These basic slopers are then manipulated to create fashions.
A basic sloper has no seam allowances, which facilitates its manipulations to
various styles. It has no design interest, only construction lines are marked on
it. It is necessary that the basic structure of a sloper should be such that
adjustments can be introduced easily. For a good pattern making, accurate
measurements are of utmost importance.
The flat patternmaking method is widely used in the ready-to-wear market
because it is fast and accurate (Aldrich).
Pattern making in today’s world
Pattern making today has become an easy job with the use of the computers.
Now-a-days different software’s are available in the market to meet the needs
of the manufacturers. The different softwares used are Gerber, Lectra,
Tukatech, OptiTex, etc. These software has made the job of the Pattern master
easier. They have made the process of pattern making more economical and
less time consuming.
Pattern-making software enables you to input your measurements and draft out
a pattern. These software draft patterns to fit your measurements specifically,
eliminating much fitting trial and error in the sewing room.
A pattern can be made from a 3D form in just a few steps by using these
softwares. An individual’s measurements are collected from 3D body scanner.
The measurements are used to create a virtual 3D model of the individual’s
body. The 3D to 2D software allows the user to define a garment surface in
relation to the 3D body model.
