Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International

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Online visual merchandising (VMD) of apparel web sites
Young Ha Wi-Suk Kwon Sharron J. Lennon
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Article information:
To cite this document:
Young Ha Wi-Suk Kwon Sharron J. Lennon, (2007),"Online visual merchandising (VMD) of apparel web
sites", Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, Vol. 11 Iss 4 pp. 477 - 493
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Online VMD of
Online visual merchandising apparel web sites
(VMD) of apparel web sites
Young Ha
University of Nebraska, Lincoln, Nebraska, USA 477
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Wi-Suk Kwon
Auburn University, Auburn, Alabama, USA, and Received 27 September 2005
Revised 17 March 2006
Sharron J. Lennon Accepted 17 March 2006
University of Delaware, Newark, Delaware, USA

Abstract
Purpose The purpose of this study was to examine visual merchandising (VMD) elements of
apparel retail web sites, to describe the state of apparel online VMD and to develop a taxonomy of
online VMD cues whose effects can be studied empirically.
Design/methodology/approach A total of 50 US and 50 Korean web sites were content analyzed
in terms of environment, manner of presentation, and path finding.
Findings Results of the study revealed that many VMD features of offline stores have been
implemented online. In addition, some VMD features of online apparel stores do not have a direct
offline parallel. The taxonomy of VMD cues can be used by researchers to systematically study the
effects of the cues following the SOR Model.
Research limitations/implications Because of the descriptive nature of the study important
discussions about possible effects of various VMD elements on consumer behaviors cannot be
addressed. Future research needs to investigate the effects of different VMD features introduced in the
study on diverse consumer behaviors.
Practical implications Using the VMD categories developed and coded in the study, online
apparel retailers may be able to gain knowledge about online VMD features they can use to create
desirable effects simulating those of in-store VMD.
Originality/value In spite of the strategic importance of VMD in online apparel stores, specific
online VMD features that may influence consumer attitudes and behaviors have not been identified.
Findings provide a comprehensive list of online VMD elements available from apparel web sites that
are comparable to traditional offline VMD.
Keywords Merchandising, Visual media, Clothing, Worldwide web
Paper type Research paper

Company web sites are ubiquitous (Sheehan and Doherty, 2001). The purpose of some
is informational, while others have a commercial purpose and also sell products. Online
consumers can browse for and purchase products on commercial web sites globally.
When shopping online, it is easy to switch from one web site to another, so it is critical
for firms to attract browsers attention. Thus, visual merchandising (VMD), the
presentation of a firm and its merchandise to attract potential customers and facilitate Journal of Fashion Marketing and
purchasing (Diamond and Diamond, 2003), assumes an especially important role in the Management
Vol. 11 No. 4, 2007
online context. pp. 477-493
However, in spite of the strategic importance of VMD, research has not investigated q Emerald Group Publishing Limited
1361-2026
online VMD in a comprehensive manner. Academic research (Eroglu et al., 2003; DOI 10.1108/13612020710824553
 JFMM Menon and Kahn, 2002; Park and Ku, 2002) shows that web site characteristics can
11,4 affect shopper behavior and shopper attitudes toward web sites (McMillan et al., 2003).
However, specific stimuli leading to those effects have not been identified (Eroglu et al.,
2003). Therefore, the purpose of this study was to:
. examine VMD elements of apparel retail web sites to describe the state of online
apparel VMD using an analogy between online VMD and traditional in-store
478
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VMD; and
.
develop a taxonomy of online VMD cues whose effects can be studied
empirically.

Content analysis of apparel retail web sites is used to provide online VMD information.
We focused on the USA and South Korea because they are world leaders in internet
usage and internet shopping (Greenspan, 2002; Shin, 2002). We focused on apparel
because it sells well online in both countries (Greenspan, 2002; KRNIC, 2003).

Literature review
Model of online store atmospherics
Eroglu et al. (2001, 2003) have recently developed and tested a model of online store
atmospherics that builds from a stimulus-organism-response framework and research
from environmental psychology (Mehrabian and Russell, 1974). The model holds that
characteristics of an environment such as a store affect consumers internal states
(e.g., pleasure, arousal), which in turn affect their behavior in that environment (e.g.,
purchase intent, purchasing, satisfaction, patronage). Eroglu et al. (2001) suggest that
images of the merchandise, music, icons, color, background patterns, animation, and
fonts might have such effects. To begin theory building in this important area, the
researchers point out the need to systematically develop a comprehensive taxonomy
of online atmospheric cues and identify their major dimensions (Eroglu et al., 2001,
p. 182). Based on the research literature, they provided one such taxonomy (high and
low task relevance cues) as an example. Eroglu et al. (2003) tested and found support
for the model. They encouraged researchers to investigate the effects of specific cues on
shopper responses. Given that the model of online store atmospherics is only recently
developed and that online VMD research is still in a rudimentary stage, our study
focused on developing a taxonomy of online VMD cues. Like Eroglu et al. (2001), we
use the research literature on in-store VMD to guide our work.

Visual merchandising in store

VMD is a strategic tool in fashion marketing and can attract consumers and
communicate brand image (Lea-Greenwood, 1998). In-store VMD includes floor layout,
interior design, signage, in-store promotion, and product mix that attract customers
(Harris, 1998). VMD is very important because aspects of VMD that are incompatible
with consumers expectations harm store image. For example, some VMD cues impact
expectations for customer service, such that expectations as a function of VMD affect
satisfaction with and ratings of salespeople (Stanforth and Lennon, 1997). Others have
found that VMD cues in window displays affect consumer decisions to enter stores
(Sen et al., 2002). These findings demonstrate that VMD is important to study
(Lea-Greenwood, 1998).
 Kerfoot et al. (2003) investigated the effects of VMD stimuli on brand recognition, Online VMD of
browsing, purchase intentions, and liking for displays in womens apparel stores. apparel web sites
Aspects of VMD that influenced perceptions were identified, including environmental
or atmospheric characteristics (e.g., merchandise color, materials and lighting), manner
of merchandise presentation, and path finding or having a clear path to navigate in the
store. Results showed that coordinated merchandise color was more pleasant and led to
more purchasing than uncoordinated merchandise color. In addition, presentations 479
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that helped shoppers visualize outfits (i.e. hanging presentation) or that gave shoppers
an idea of how the outfit would look when worn (i.e. mannequin presentation) were
positively perceived and tended to stimulate multiple purchases and browsing (Kerfoot
et al., 2003).
To find merchandise, shoppers must navigate the store. When clear paths are not
provided, shoppers have difficulty getting around and are unsure where to start
(Kerfoot et al., 2003). Path-finding difficulties were also associated with merchandise
obstructions due to display and merchandise density, the absence of which was
associated with perceptions of quality. In addition, environmental aspects such as
flooring, fixtures, hangers, and lighting also affected perceptions. In general, results
supported relationships between VMD and approach and avoidance behaviors
(Kerfoot et al., 2003).

An analogy between in-store and online visual merchandising

Then and DeLong (1999) suggest an analogy between the design of apparel web sites
and retail store layout. Accordingly, the goal of both is for consumers to come into the
store, to enjoy the environment, and to purchase products. In-store retailers plan store
layouts and product departments to help consumers find appropriate merchandise.
Store layouts, product departments, and merchandise directories might be analogous
to online merchandise categories and the ease with which merchandise is found on a
retail web site using sitemaps or search engines. Such features direct consumers
through the retail web site and make it more useful (Ranganathan and Ganapathy,
2002) and more satisfying (Szymanski and Hise, 2000).
Consumers are attracted to in-store music and innovative merchandise
presentations in display windows (Sen et al., 2002). Analogously, music (Harris,
1998), a large colorful image, or product videos on opening web pages may attract
consumers into an online store. Aspects of the in-store environment evoke emotional
responses and affect approach and avoidance intentions (Donovan and Rossiter, 1982)
and amount of time and money spent in the store (Donovan et al., 1994). Specific cues
might include music, types of signage, or other sensory characteristics of the store
environment. Analogous components on a web site could include music, sales
promotions or other ads, color surrounding the merchandise image, and positioning of
elements on the web page. Intent to revisit a site (Rice, 1997) and satisfaction with
online shopping (Szymanski and Hise, 2000) may be influenced by such factors.

Visual merchandising in apparel web sites

VMD of apparel web sites may be more critical than VMD for web sites selling other
types of products. Because apparel is an experience good (Ekelund et al., 1995), its
quality can only be fully determined after purchase, and thus, the inability to try on
apparel before purchase is a major risk when shopping remotely (Kim and Lennon,
 JFMM 2000; Kwon et al., 1991). Whereas the general purpose of in-store VMD is to
11,4 communicate store and merchandise information to the customer (Diamond and
Diamond, 2003), another purpose specific to nonstore VMD is to provide experiences
that are as close to the in-store experience as possible to reduce perceived risk related to
the lack of physical contact with the store and merchandise. Mitchell (2001) suggested
that stores with attractive displays or attractive decor might reduce psychosocial risk
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related to purchasing. By extension, attractive displays or attractive decor in the online

apparel store may help to reduce online purchasing risk. Viewing apparel products in a
variety of ways can help consumers visualize how the items might look when worn
(Allen, 1999), and may also reduce risk. Accordingly, apparel web sites could offer
colorful fonts, more visual product information, and a variety of product presentations
(e.g., larger views, back and side views, and close-ups of the products). Close-ups
provide more visual product information and may reduce risk regarding garment
details. PricewaterhouseCoopers found that most internet shoppers are likely to view a
close-up of a product before purchasing and about 44 percent say a close-up view
increased their purchase intent (Emarketer, 2001). Thus, the VMD of apparel web sites
may be important for reducing risk and increasing purchase intent.
Graphics can make the web site page more interesting (Rowley, 2002) and
three-dimensional (3D) views (Allen, 1999) enhance presentation and reduce risk (Then
and DeLong, 1999). However, 3D views are not routinely used (Park and Stoel, 2002),
even though 43 percent of internet users rate 3D images as very useful (E-retail
Intelligence Update, 2001). Furthermore, research (Park et al., 2005) found that 3D
presentation decreased perceived risk and increased purchase intent in an online
context. Apparel sites may also offer mix and match suggestions that coordinate with
selected items, allowing online shoppers to create a complete look that may encourage
trial (Allen, 2000) and increase online purchase intent (Then and DeLong, 1999).
However, Park and Stoel (2002) found only about half the web sites in their sample
provided information about mix and match.
Color and fabric information, such as texture details, are often depicted
graphically and may also be important determinants of consumers shopping
behaviors such as site patronage and purchase intent. Park and Stoel (2002) found
that most apparel web sites provide some type of color information. Kwon et al.
(1991) suggested that enlarged views of fabric texture might reduce perceived risk
in catalog apparel shopping. Fiore and Yu (2001) found that catalog pages with
fabric samples enhanced attitude toward the apparel product. Regarding apparel
display method, Then and DeLong (1999) highlight the importance of using a
human model to show the natural drape of the garment. Their respondents chose a
mannequin display as the best method of web site apparel display method, a flat
display second, and sketches of the product third.
To develop a taxonomy of VMD cues for use in empirical research guided by the
Model of Online Atmospherics (Eroglu et al., 2001), we assessed online VMD in US and
South Korean apparel web sites. Consumers from these countries represent the most
active Western and Eastern online shoppers. VMD practices in these two countries will
likely provide a broader perspective than focusing on only one country or on two
countries from the same region. To address the objectives of this research, two research
questions were developed:
 (1) What current VMD elements of apparel retail web sites are analogous to those Online VMD of
of traditional in-store VMD in the literature? apparel web sites
(2) Using the taxonomy of VMD cues, which should be studied in future empirical
studies?

Method 481
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Sampling procedure
Korean (n 43) and US (n 106) female college students volunteered names and
URLs of apparel web sites they had browsed. Web sites mentioned by only one person
or that dealt with only specialized apparel (i.e. a swimwear web site) were excluded. In
this way, 50 web sites from each country were identified. The selected web sites were
checked to confirm that they all included womens apparel in their assortments. A
complete list of the 100 web sites is available from the first author.

Content analysis
The research strategy employed in this study was content analysis, defined as the
objective, systematic, and quantitative description of the manifest content of
communication (Berelson, 1952, p. 18). Manifest content or easily observable
surface-level content (Lynch and Peer, 2002) from online retailers web sites was coded.
An initial coding structure for the content analysis was developed. For example, we
classified online VMD elements such as the online environment (e.g., intro-music,
pop-up ads, web site background color) as analogous to offline VMD elements such as
store environment (e.g., music, signage, color). The coded online VMD elements fell into
three general themes (Kerfoot et al., 2003): environment, manner of presentation, and
path finding assistance (see Table I).
To test the initial coding frame, a subsample of ten US and ten Korean web sites
was analyzed. Throughout this process, the initial coding frame was refined by adding
some more VMD elements that were found missing in the initial coding frame and by
redefining some of the existing VMD elements (e.g., sitemap and search engine were
included as path-finding features). The finalized coding frame developed from this
process included the same three main themes as the initial coding structure, each
consisting of various VMD elements (see Table I).
Each VMD element was then divided into subcategories that could be coded as
present or absent. Each subcategory was coded as present if at least one instance
of the category was located on the web site. For example, the manner of product
presentation theme included the product display method element. To code product
display method, womens apparel pages were checked first; if a particular display
method (e.g., hanging presentation) was not found, then mens apparel was checked for
instances of that method. If a display method was not found in mens or womens, it
was counted absent. If at least one apparel item was depicted on a hanger, the
hanging product display method would be coded present. Thus, in coding
something absent from the web site, all womens and mens product pages (if the web
site sold menswear) would be checked.
Two bilingual researchers coded the 100 web sites over a two-month period and all
web sites were copied and saved. Reliability of coding was calculated using Perreault
and Leighs (1989) reliability index which takes chance agreement into account.
 JFMM
Categories
11,4 Themes VMD elements Korea USA Total

Online path Sitemap Sitemap 28 20 48

finding assistance Search engine Search engine 43 38 81
Merchandise categorization
482 1st order criterion By brand 11 9 20
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By item 9 19 28
By target 31 29 60
By style/look/occasion 6 11 17
By price 1 0 1
2nd order criterion By brand 5 0 5
By item 9 3 12
By target 0 0 0
By style/look/occasion 1 0 1
By price 0 0 0
Presentation styles Horizontal 28 28 56
Horizontal place/appear 8 5 13
Vertical 37 24 61
Vertical place/appear 8 3 11
Scroll down 2 13 15

Environment Atmospheric features Intro-page 5 6 11

Intro-music 3 1 4
Music during browsing 5 2 7
Video 6 1 7
Sale/promotion signage Simple click-on 29 27 56
menuadvertisement
Pop-up advertisement 10 1 11
Click-on advertisement 32 22 54
Automatically-moving ad 4 0 4
Non-clickable image 3 1 4
advertisement
Color
Background color White 44 39 83
Mild 4 4 8
Black/dark 1 2 3
Vivid 0 3 3
Inconsistent 0 1 1
Other 1 1 2
Color surrounding product White 25 30 55
Mild 3 2 5
Black/dark 0 0 0
Vivid 0 1 1
Catalog style 0 7 7
Inconsistent 22 9 31
Other 0 1 1
Text color White 1 0 1
Table I. Mild 0 1 1
Coding structure and Black/dark 49 48 97
taxonomy of online VMD Vivid 0 1 1
cues (continued)
 Categories
Online VMD of
Themes VMD elements Korea USA Total apparel web sites
Manner of product Types of product view Front view 50 50 100
presentation Back view 36 26 62
Side view 23 13 36
Product view presentation 2-D F-B on same page 26 11 37 483
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methods 2-D click-on F-B 19 14 33

2-D automatic F-B change 10 0 10
2-D place/appear F-B 10 0 10
3-D click-on rotation 0 1 1
3-D automatic rotation 0 3 3
Detailed views 2-D larger view on same page 4 0 4
2-D larger view on separate 25 42 67
page
2-D larger view on both same 19 0 19
and separate pages
3-D larger view on separate 0 2 2
page
Zoom-partitioning 0 3 3
Multiple zoom-ins 0 8 8
Swatch Fabric swatch 14 32 46
Color swatch 22 39 61
Color presentation Change by color swatch click 8 25 33
Change by scroll down option 3 17 20
Change by swatch 7 0 7
place/appear
Automatic color change 13 0 13
Colors as separate items 35 6 41
Products with all colors on 26 7 33
same page
Product display method Hanging 32 4 36
Mannequin 36 11 47
Folding 22 6 28
Flat 45 33 78
Mannequin-cut 24 16 40
Model 28 22 50
Model-catalog style 17 16 33
Cyber model 0 2 2
Mix and match Suggestion for each item 11 35 46
Interactive mix and match 2 2 4
Suggestion by look/occasion 14 8 22 Table I.

Inter-coder reliability was 0.92 for the Korean web sites and 0.94 for the US web sites.
For an overview of categories associated with each VMD element, see Table I.

Results and discussion

General web site characteristics
A total of 47 US and 45 Korean apparel web sites were shopping sites; the remainder
were available for only browsing. The majority of web sites analyzed carried both
mens and womens wear, but a few dealt only with womens wear.
 JFMM Path finding assistance features
11,4 The online VMD coding theme, path finding assistance, denoted visualized services
provided to help the user locate a product. An in-store VMD analogy of this theme can
be found in layout of fixtures, signage, store directories, and product groupings. In this
study, the presence of sitemaps and search engines, categorization of merchandise, and
methods used to present merchandise categories were all coded as elements of online
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path finding assistance.

Sitemap and search engine. A sitemap is usually provided in the form of a tree or a
table that maps the structure of the web site in a simple way to help viewers find
merchandise. About half the web sites had sitemaps (see Table I for all frequencies). A
search engine is a similar tool, which is handy when shoppers want to avoid browsing
and go right to the products. Search engines were available in the majority of both
countries web sites. Sitemaps and search engines are important because they structure
a shoppers search and can hinder or facilitate finding desired merchandise and can
improve sales conversion rates (Internet Retailer, 2004). In addition, the ability to
navigate through a web site with ease has been related to purchase intent
(Ranganathan and Ganapathy, 2002) and research shows that 34 percent of internet
users consider a search engine to be a desirable web site feature (E-retail Intelligence
Update, 2001).
Merchandise categorization. How merchandise is classified and the convenience
with which the merchandise categories are presented are likely to influence consumers
product search paths. To code merchandise categorization, the first apparel page on
each web site was analyzed. In this study, the first apparel page is the webpage on
which the viewer first finds a list of apparel categories and/or apparel products. For
some web sites, merchandise categories were presented in a two-step manner; for
example, target consumer segments might be presented first (e.g., men, women,
children) and then broad merchandise categories were presented (e.g., tops, bottoms,
accessories). When merchandise categories were presented in a two-step manner, first-
and second-order categories were coded separately. Coding categories included
categorization by brand, item, target, price, and style/look/occasion. There were also
different category presentation styles across web sites. The categories:
.
were listed horizontally on the menu bar;
.
appeared on the screen in a horizontal manner when the cursor was placed on an
upper level category name;
.
were listed vertically on one side of the screen;
.
appeared on the screen in a vertical manner when the cursor was just placed on
an upper level category name; or
. were presented in a scroll-down menu.

For example, some web sites would show target customer labels (e.g., womens, mens)
horizontally on top of the page, and when the viewer placed the cursor on womens,
item categories for womens wear would appear in a vertical manner overlapped on the
page (e.g., [Link]). In this case, the first-order categories and category
presentation style would be coded as by target horizontal while the second order
category would be by item vertical place/appear.
 The majority of web sites analyzed used only one merchandise category Online VMD of
presentation style, but some web sites used two or more styles simultaneously (e.g., apparel web sites
[Link]) to present merchandise categories. Most of these instances were
concentrated in the target category (e.g., men, women), which may imply that online
retailers consider target as the most fundamental or the most important categorization
criterion for taking shoppers to the right product pages.
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Environment
The second coding theme was labeled environment, and addressed
atmospheric/environmental and sensory features of online VMD that may not be
directly related to the individual product display or sales but may influence the
viewers shopping experience by affecting perceptions of web site image and
atmosphere or cognitive and affective states (Eroglu et al., 2003; Fiore and Jin, 2003;
Menon and Kahn, 2002).This theme is analogous to such traditional in-store VMD
elements as fixtures, lighting, music, and other elements of the built environment. The
three online VMD elements coded into this theme are atmospheric features,
sale/promotion signage, and color.
Atmospheric features. An intro-page refers to the first page of a web site prior to its
homepage that is specially designed to create a strong first impression of the apparel
brand or the retailer (e.g., Bacheldor, 2000). Intro-pages may employ creative graphics
along with music, called intro-music (New Media Age, 2000), intended to convey an
image of the company or brand, and may have a click here to enter or skip this page
button. Few web sites of either country had an intro-page. The scant usage of
intro-pages may partly be attributed to criticism that intro-pages often have a negative
effect due to the delay in downloading fancy images. More graphics increase the
loading time and long download times decrease consumer satisfaction and negatively
affect attitudes toward the web site (Yang et al., 2003). Music and videos were also
analyzed as atmospheric features. Web sites analyzed seldom featured music or videos.
A few of the web sites that had an intro-page used intro-music along with graphics.
Sale/promotion signage. Sale and promotional signage refers to any visual element
(text, image or combination of both) that is used to inform the viewer of sales or
promotional offers (except for information about free shipping offers). This type of
signage was analyzed on the first apparel pages. Five types of signage were identified:
(1) using one or more regular text menus to link to sale pages (simple click-on
menu);
(2) pop-up advertisements;
(3) static image advertisements that were linked to sale pages (click-on
advertisements);
(4) small advertisement slides that look as if they are automatically moving either
horizontally or vertically showing multiple advertisements while the viewer is
browsing the webpage (automatically-moving advertisements); and
(5) static image advertisements without links to sale pages (non-clickable image
advertisements).

Simple click-on menus and click-on advertisements were common ways of informing
consumers about sale and promotion news.
 JFMM Color. Colors used in the background, the area surrounding product images, and for
11,4 the text were analyzed. The pages analyzed for color were those on which individual
products were first presented in detail with information about price, colors, fabrics, and
sizes; these pages were those on which final selections for purchasing were made. Every
apparel category was analyzed for color information. A white background with black or
other dark colors (e.g., dark navy, dark gray) of text was most often used. White was also
486 most commonly used to surround a product on an individual product image.
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Manner of product presentation

The third coding theme, manner of product presentation, refers to all VMD elements
that are related to methods of showing individual products and product information.
This theme may be the most important portion of online apparel VMD, because
information (Kim and Lennon, 2000) and type of online product presentation (Park et al.,
2005) are negatively related to perceived risk and positively related to purchase intent.
For consumers who cannot visualize what apparel will look like on a body, presenting
apparel on a mannequin or model is akin to presenting more information. Because
online apparel presentation provides information, manner of online product
presentation can facilitate simulation of a traditional in-store shopping experience
within the limitation of lack of trialability. In fact, 75 percent of internet users consider
product images to be very useful web site features (E-retail Intelligence Update, 2001).
Product view types and presentation methods. All web sites included in this analysis
presented front views of their products. In addition, back and side views were also
presented on half or more of the web sites from both countries. The extent to which
alternative views of products were presented is an improvement over that found
recently by Park and Stoel (2002) who note that nearly 97 percent of US apparel web
sites analyzed presented only one 2D view of products.
Methods used to present front, back and side views of products can be divided into
2D and 3D methods. Some web sites conveniently provided different views on the same
page so that browsers need not click for alternative views. Comparable numbers of
sites from each country used a click-on front-back view change option that allows
browsers to click on a product image or a button that reads back view or alternative
views to see various views. This type of click-on feature allows browsers to interact
with virtual objects and has been found to affect attitude toward the product and
patronage intent (Fiore and Jin, 2003). More general object interactivity has been found
to affect purchase intentions (Schlosser, 2003).
On some web sites product views changed automatically at a regular pace. Other
web sites provided product images or alternative-view buttons that made an
alternative product view appear by simply placing the cursor on the image or button
without clicking. These alternative images change back to the original views by
moving the cursor. These two methods were only observed on Korean web sites, while
only US web sites in this analysis used 3D options to present products.
Detailed views. In addition to front, back or side views, detailed views of individual
products to help consumers examine products more closely were also provided by most
web sites in the form of 2D larger view options. Zoom options and 3D larger views
were found only on US web sites and then only infrequently. Two zooming methods
(partitioning and multiple zoom-ins) were found. For the partitioning method, the
web site provided a product image with lines of partitioned blocks on it, and viewers
 could click on each block to visually inspect that part of the product more closely. The Online VMD of
multiple zoom-in option allowed browsers to click on the same part of a product image apparel web sites
multiple times (usually twice or more) in order to access detailed views of a particular
area. Zoom technology is important because it enhances apparel shoppers online
experience (Internet Retailer, 2004) and allows a close-up view of the product. In other
research, 78 percent of internet users surveyed said close-up views were very useful, 39
percent said close-up views contributed to their online satisfaction, and 46 percent said 487
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3D images of products were very useful (E-retail Intelligence Update, 2001).

Color and fabric swatch. Except for instances in which the web site provided
detailed pictures of fabrics or computer-generated color chips, color swatches served as
fabric swatches on many web sites. On these web sites thumbnail images from part of
the products fabric image were used as color swatches. Color information was always
available in some form on all the web sites analyzed.
Product color presentation. Most web sites analyzed in this study graphically
offered color views using one of six types of presentation (see Table I). On some Korean
web sites, products changed colors:
.
at a regular speed showing all available colors automatically; or
.
only by placing the cursor on the color swatch without having to actually click
on the swatch.

Product display methods. Individual product images used one of eight product display
methods (see Table I). For example, when items were displayed on a mannequin with
all non-garment parts outside of the garment silhouette cut off, it was classified as a
mannequin-cut. All product display methods were found on both countrys web sites,
except for the use of a cyber model which was not found on Korean web sites.
Mix and match. Presenting an individual product in connection with other products
is an important online VMD element that is analogous to traditional retail up-selling or
suggesting coordinated items. Thus, the availability of mix and match options is an
important marketing tool. Mix and match items were presented in three different ways
(see Table I). All three methods were found across countries, although relatively few
used the interactive customizable mix and match option (e.g., [Link],
[Link], [Link], [Link]). On these web sites, customers
could customize mix and match of top and bottom items with different styles and
colors from given selections to see how they looked on a mannequin or a cyber model.
Selecting the appropriate mix and match suggestions to display for consumers is
tricky, and trade publications caution merchants to carefully program suggestions that
complement originally selected items (Internet Retailer, 2004).

Taxonomy of online VMD cues

Based on the content analysis, we offer a broad taxonomy of online VMD cues (see
Table I): path-finding factors, environmental factors, and product presentation factors.
These broad categories of cues, or their sub-categories for a fine-grained analysis, can
then be used in the Model of Online Atmospherics (Eroglu et al., 2001) to determine their
effects on internal states and ultimately on approach/avoidance behaviors. As previously
argued, we believe that manner of product presentation may be the most important
portion of online apparel VMD in affecting perceived risk and purchase intent. Using the
coding structure displayed in Table I, we illustrate existing online and in-store VMD
 JFMM research efforts by type of VMD element studied (see Table II). Important gaps in the
11,4 research are revealed in places where in-store research exists, but online research does
not, or vice versa. Thus, we suggest that researchers using the Model of Online
Atmospherics focus on path-finding factors, environmental factors, product presentation
factors, or their sub-categories, in future research in online apparel VMD.

488
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Conclusions and implications

The objectives of this study were to:
.
examine visual merchandising (VMD) elements of apparel retail web sites to
describe the state of apparel online VMD; and
.
develop a taxonomy of online VMD cues whose effects can be studied empirically.

Themes VMD elements Instore research Online research

Online path Sitemap Eroglu and Machleit (1990);

finding assistance Search engine Kerfoot et al. (2003); Machleit
Merchandise et al. (2000)
categorization
1st order criterion
2nd order criterion
Presentation styles
Environment Atmospheric features: Areni and Kim (1993); Baker
music et al. (1992); Donovan and
Rossiter(1982); Dube and
Morin (2001); Grewal et al.
(2003); Herrington and Capella
(1996); North et al. (2003);
Yalch and Spangenberg (1990,
1993, 2000)
Atmospheric features: Fiore et al. (2000); Means Menon and Kahn
displays (1981); Sen et al. (2002) (2002)
Atmospheric features:
videos
Sale/promotion signage
Color Babin et al. (2003); Bellizi et al. Eroglu et al. (2003)
Background color (1983); Crowley(1993)
Color surrounding
product
Text color
Manner of product Types of product view
presentation
Product view Park et al. (2005)
presentation methods
Detailed views Park et al. (2005)
Swatch Fiore and Yu (2001)
Table II. Color presentation
Existing experimental Product display method Fiore et al. (2000)
instore and online VMD Mix and match Fiore and Jin (2003);
research Fiore et al. (2005)
 For the former objective, the results from 100 web sites revealed that most of the VMD Online VMD of
features and elements of offline retail stores actually have been implemented by online apparel web sites
retailers with some modifications that fit the online environment. For example, online
features such as sitemap, search engine, and various merchandise category
presentation methods appeared to be equivalent to traditional in-store path finding
assistance features. Intro-pages, intro-music, and videos were used as atmospheric
features in a similar way that image props, music, and videos are used for enhancing 489
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atmospherics of traditional retail stores. Various types of sale and promotion

advertisements posted on apparel web sites played the same role as point of purchase
and other display devices that are used to inform customers of sales and promotions in
traditional apparel stores. Finally and most importantly, the majority of the web sites
included in this study used diverse visual presentation methods for individual
products, available colors, and coordination with other products to provide online
apparel customers with an experience that is as similar to the traditional in-store
shopping process as possible given that the products cannot be tried on for fit. Instead
of selecting garments, trying them on, and making a final purchase decision in a store,
online consumers choose garments, read about their details, enlarge them, see them in
different colors, rotate them, and see them coordinated with other items.
Addressing objective 2, we offer the taxonomy of path-finding factors,
environmental factors, product presentation factors, and their sub-categories as a
way to frame research using the Model of Online Atmospherics to investigate online
apparel VMD. Sub-categories of every online VMD element can be used as different
manipulation levels in experimental research. For example, mix and match
suggestions can be divided into three mix and match levels (e.g., suggestion for
each item, interactive mix and match, and suggestion by look/occasion) to examine the
effects of different types of mix and match suggestions on consumer behaviors. Results
of this type of research could be used by online retailers targeting young female
consumers in order to select the best mix and match option for their web sites. Because
of the inability to try on apparel products before purchase, we expect that of the three
factors, online product presentation will be most important in the context of online
apparel stores. Visual aspects of apparel products such as a variety of different product
views can help consumers assess apparel items (Allen, 1999). However, individually,
other cues may also be important just as they are in the offline environment (e.g.,
environmental color or music). It is also possible that some of the three factors may be
more influential when consumers are purchasing and others more influential when
consumers are browsing. For example, environmental features may affect consumers
who are browsing, but not those who are purchasing. This will need to be tested in
future research.
Findings from this study may provide useful practical information. Table I provides
a rather comprehensive list of online VMD elements from apparel web sites favored by
college-student consumers. Apparel online retailers who target young consumers
might use these results to benchmark their own web sites in comparison to others. In
addition, when developing apparel retail web sites, consideration should be given to all
possible online VMD factors that are comparable to traditional offline VMD. For
example, online product categories can have as great an impact on sales as do
merchandise display layouts in offline retail stores, because online product categories
structure a consumers search through the large array of products available on a web
 JFMM site. The same kind of analogy between web site features and traditional store VMD
11,4 features can be found in every coding category identified in this study. Therefore,
using the findings from this study, online apparel retailers may be able to gain
knowledge about online VMD options they can choose to create desirable effects
simulating those of in-store VMD.
There are limitations to this research. The sample web sites used for the content
490 analysis were culled from responses of student convenience samples from the two
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countries. This sampling procedure limits the generalizability of the results. Although
the sample of web sites analyzed may represent apparel web sites that are popular to
young, female consumers in the two countries, it may not represent the web sites
frequented by other groups of consumers. In addition, due to the descriptive nature of
this study important discussions about possible differential effects of various VMD
elements coded could not be addressed, but do suggest recommendations for future
research.
Results of this study suggest implications for future research on online VMD and
online apparel retailing. First, in spite of the various ways of presenting product
options (e.g., interactive ways, automatic changes, showing all at once) observed in this
study, research is lacking on the effects of these varying presentation methods. The
impact of the trade-off between the interactivity (i.e. click-on changes) and
convenience-oriented approaches (i.e. automatic changes) on various dependent
measures (e.g., perceptions of controllability, affect including pleasure of browsing,
and purchase intent) needs to be empirically addressed in future research to provide
clearer guidelines to online retailers. Furthermore, individual difference variables that
may influence responses to these approaches also need to be studied. Examples include
technical literacy, internet use, and personality factors such as need for control.
Cultural influences on consumers acceptance and preference for one VMD option
over others should also be studied to provide global internet marketers insight into
how to adjust their web site designs depending on the regions or countries in which the
audience of the web sites resides. Considering that the internet is accessible from
anywhere in the world, exposure of a web site to the international market is
unavoidable whether it is done purposefully or inadvertently. Therefore, especially for
retail companies who have operations in multiple countries possibly using different
languages (e.g., Nike), having separate local web sites that fit local consumers VMD
preferences may be an important marketing tool.

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Corresponding author
Young Ha can be contacted at: yha3@[Link]

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