Acknowledgements Author:
John Harrod, Delaware Nature Society
Reference:
Swearingen, J., K. Reshetiloff, B. Slattery,
and S. Zwicker. 2002. Plant Invaders of
Mid-Atlantic Natural Areas. National Park
Service and U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service,
82 pp.
Project participants:
Sue Barton, University of Delaware
controlling
Backyard Invaders
Valann Budischak, University of Delaware
Jen Gochenaur, Delaware Nature Society
Faith Kuehn, Delaware Department of
Agriculture
Gary Schwetz, Delaware Center for
Horticulture
Photographs provided by:
Olin Allen
Dave Pro
Jim White
Susan Barton
Graphic design by:
Carrie Finnie
Funding provided by:
National Urban and Community Forestry
Advisory Council (NUCFAC)
Supported by:
Delaware Center for Horticulture
Delaware Department of Agriculture
Delaware Invasive Species Council
Delaware Nature Society
Delaware Nursery and Landscape Assoc.
University of Delaware
controlling
Backyard Invaders
What are Invasive Plants?
Invasive plants quickly overwhelm and displace existing native plants by reduc-
ing the availability of light, water, nutrients and space. They have few, if any, natu-
ral controls to keep them in check. Ecologists now rank invasion by exotic plants,
animals, and pathogens second only to habitat loss as a major threat to local biodi-
versity.
Invasive plants may be introduced by accident or intentionally to control
Controlling Invasive Plants
erosion, provide wildlife food and habitat, or for ornamental value in gardens.
Through the Plants for a Livable Delaware effort, a team of scientists, natural-
Accidental introductions occur when people and goods travel worldwide. Packing
ists, and nursery industry professionals identified mechanical and chemical control
material can harbor seeds or plant parts. Japanese stilt grass, now a widely escaped
methods for some of the most aggressive and prevalent invasive plants in Delaware.
groundcover in woodland edges, is a prime example.
These control methods are listed in this brochure under the individual invasive
Invasive plants can be divided into two categories—(1) plants that were intro-
plant species.
duced either intentionally or accidentally but are no longer sold (i.e. multiflora
Whenever possible use mechanical control (i.e. digging, cutting) as your first
rose, stilt grass) and (2) ornamental plants still grown and sold.
line of defense. Save chemicals as the last alternative, because their introduction
This brochure focuses primarily on invasive plants no longer sold. The goal
can have long term and/or unintended effects on the environment.
is to guide home and property owners in the identification and control of aggres-
Mechanical control treatment is similar in many plant species. The basic strate-
sive invasive plants. Not only will control improve the diversity of native and
gy for trees, shrubs, and vines is to cut off the trunk or stem and then remove
non-invasive plants, but it will also improve habitat and help prevent the spread
and/or kill the roots. Although many species will re-sprout from the cut stump or
of invasive plants to neighboring areas.
stem, continued cutting of the new growth will eventually “starve” the roots, in
most cases. Control herbaceous perennial plants by removing the entire plant,
including roots, before flowering. Prevent annual plant seed production by remov-
ing plants, or by mowing or clipping flower heads before full bloom and/or seed
set. Keep in mind that mowing can also control or eliminate desirable native vege-
tation, so consider a more selective control method for sites where desirable plants
are already dominant. Invasive plants are opportunistic and take over a site by
spreading much faster than local native plants, especially when soil, drainage, and
Cover photo background: masses of Autumn olive light patterns are disturbed. Avoid creating excessive disturbance to plants in the
dominate the vegetation in this Delaware roadside. immediate area.
2 3
What do I do once I remove invasive plants?
Avoid bare ground. Promptly replant disturbed areas as soon as possible. Use
native plants in natural areas and stream corridors, or non-invasive ornamentals in
a yard or garden. Acquire native plant lists from the Delaware Nature Society,
Delaware Native Plant Society, or the Plants for a Livable Delaware companion
booklet, which lists alternatives to invasive plant species. You can also monitor nat-
ural succession of native plants to reclaim a vacant space.
Prevent potential erosion problems caused by plant removal by covering any
unplanted ground with salt hay, not straw. Salt hay, unlike straw, does not contain
weed seeds. Mulch flower beds to cover exposed bare soil and reduce invasive weed
seedlings. Maintain the area by controlling any invasive plants that come up,
reducing the competition with desirable plants.
If chemical controls are the best solution for your situation, choose an herbicide
that is non-persistent in the environment. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Plants for a Livable Delaware is a campaign to identify and promote superior
The recommended chemicals for invasive plant control may require assistance from a plants that thrive without becoming invasive.
professional with a pesticide applicator's license, as some of the chemicals are restricted.
Contact the of the Delaware Department of Agriculture pesticide section at A Livable Delaware plant must
302-698-4570 for a list of certified professional applicators. • Possess adaptable characteristics to landscape situations (i.e. drought resistant,
Sometimes, neither mechanical nor chemical control alone is sufficient, and a com- tolerant of poor soils, etc.)
bination of controls is necessary. Mechanical control may remove only the top of the • Pose no potential threat as an invasive plant
plant leaving the roots in place or chemical control may kill the plant but leave unsight- • Have no serious disease or insect problems
ly dead stems. An example of a combined control method is cutting a woody plant • Be hardy to Delaware
down to the stump and treating the stump with a systemic herbicide. Systemic herbi- Livable Delaware Plants are identified at some garden centers, public gardens
cides move through a plant’s vascular system killing the entire plant. and natural areas in Delaware. They provide safe and desirable alternative to inva-
Before you begin removing invasive plants, it is important to have a plan in place to sive plants.
restore the disturbed habitat. Hedgerows and tangles of vegetation containing invasive
plants often are sites of nesting birds and may be havens for small mammals. The best
time to remove invasive plants from hedgerows is from September through March when
birds are not nesting.
For most effective control of invasive plants covered in this brochure use a 1% solution of
Roundup Pro®. In the case of Japanese knotweed, use a 2% solution of Roundup Pro®.
4 5
Trees & Shrubs Trees & Shrubs
Problem
Autumn olive Problem
Multiflora rose
(Elaeagnus umbellata) (Rosa multiflora)
Autumn olive was originally used for Originally promoted for erosion control
wildlife habitat, erosion control, and as an and wildlife cover, multiflora rose is a shrub
ornamental. It is a large shrub reaching 20 that spreads by seeds, roots, and layering
feet and is spread by seeds. It tolerates (the process of rooting branches, twigs or
drought and poor soil, which allows it stems still attached to the parent plant). It
Silvery scales of autumn olive to grow in meadows and open woodlands. smothers native vegetation with its dense Multiflora rose flowers
It creates dense shade and excludes native thickets of arching or trailing thorny stems
trees and shrubs. that grow up to 13 feet tall. It is found in
fields, forest, meadows, and riparian areas,
Identification: The underside of and is a dominant component of roadside
autumn olive twigs and leaves are covered vegetation.
with small silvery scales. It has fragrant
small white flowers in spring and red fruits Identification: Multiflora rose produces
ripening in September and October. numerous fragrant clusters of white flowers
in June that form small, red hips (fruits).
Control: Remove small plants and Twigs are reddish in winter.
seedlings by hand. For mature plants, cut
trunks and treat fresh cut trunks with a Control: Remove plants by digging out
Autumn olive with fruit systemic herbicide. Treat new sprouts with the crown (where roots join the stem). Cut Multiflora rose stem
herbicide as needed. stems can be treated with systemic herbi-
cide to kill roots. A glyphosate-based herbi-
cide, like Roundup Pro®, can be applied to
foliage in April and May before most native
plants have produced leaves.
Multiflora rose hips
Autumn olive flowering Multiflora rose invading open space
6 7
Vines Vines
Problem
Porcelain berry Problem
Oriental bittersweet
(Ampelopsis brevipedunculata) (Celastrus orbiculatus)
Porcelain berry was brought to the Oriental bittersweet was introduced as
United States as a landscape plant. It is a an ornamental plant and is still sold in
woody climbing vine that spreads by seed some places today. It is a woody climbing
and through layering. Porcelain berry grows vine that spreads by seeds. It grows in
well in dry or moist areas, smothering fields, forest edges, and gaps in woodland
shrubs and small trees in upland areas and canopys where it smothers all layers of Oriental bittersweet trunk
around stream banks and pond margins. vegetation from tall trees to small shrubs.
Identification: The leaves and growth Identification: Small green flowers in
habit are similar to grapevine. Porcelain leaf axils turn to orange fruits that split
berry has small inconspicuous flowers that open in autumn to reveal fleshy red seeds.
turn into smooth fleshy berries in shades of It has round smooth leaves and scaly bark.
blue, lavender, pink, turquoise, and yellow.
Control: Remove smaller vines and
Porcelian berry leaves Control: Remove smaller vines and roots by hand. On older plants, cut trunks
roots by hand. For older plants, cut stems and treat with a systemic herbicide to kill
and treat cut trunks with a systemic herbi- the roots.
cide.
Oriental bittersweet fruit
Porcelain berry fruit Oriental bittersweet with unripe fruit
8 9
Vines Perennials
Problem
Japanese honeysuckle Problem
Garlic Mustard
(Lonicera japonica) (Alliaria petiolata)
Japanese honeysuckle was introduced Garlic mustard is a biennial (lives two
more than 100 years ago for erosion control years, normally producing flowers and seeds
and wildlife food and cover. It is a woody the second year) herb that was introduced
trailing or climbing vine that spreads vege- for food and medicinal purposes. Spreading
tatively and through seeds. It grows in sun by seed, it grows in shaded woods or on
to medium shade in disturbed areas includ- Garlic mustard flowering
roadsides, displacing native wildflowers.
ing fields and forests, and smothers shrubs
and small trees. Identification: Toothed, heart-shaped
leaves smell like garlic when crushed.
Identification: Japanese honeysuckle During the first year small rosettes grow
has white fragrant flowers that age to a close to the ground. In the second year it
Japanese honeysuckle flowering
yellowish color and semi-evergreen oval sends up 1-3’ flower stalks with delicate 4-
leaves. Round black berries develop in petaled white flowers.
late summer.
Control: Remove plants by hand dur-
Control: Remove smaller vines and ing flowering in June and early July to pre-
roots by hand. Mow twice a year, in July vent seed production. Destroy flower stalks
and September, to limit vegetative spread. to prevent seed from forming on plants cast
Spray plants with a glyphosate-based herbi- aside. Large patches can be mowed close to Garlic mustard in natural area
cide, like Roundup Pro®, in mid- the ground while in full bloom to prevent
November to early winter when honeysuck- seed development. Spray year one rosettes
le still has green leaves and other plants are with a glyphosate-based herbicide, like
dormant. Roundup Pro®, in mid-November to early
winter when other plants are dormant and
garlic mustard is still green.
Japanese honeysuckle fruit
Garlic mustard rosettes
10 11
Perennials Perennials
Problem
Canada Thistle Problem
Japanese Knotweed
(Cirsium arvense) (Polygonum cuspidatum)
Canada thistle is an herbaceous perenni- Japanese knotweed was introduced as
al that is considered one of the most tena- an ornamental plant and has been used for
cious agricultural weeds by Canada and the erosion control. Knotweed regenerates easi-
U.S. It grows in full sun in dry, disturbed ly from small vegetative pieces and seeds,
areas and agricultural fields. Spreading by quickly forming dense thickets. It is an
seeds and roots, it crowds out native mead- Japanese knotweed
herbaceous perennial that can grow to over
ow vegetation. 10’ tall and is commonly found in sun or
medium shade near water sources and
Identification: Canada thistle has waste areas.
numerous small purple flower heads on 1’
to 5’ plants with prickly leaves. The seeds Identification: Japanese knotweed has a
are dandelion-like, white feathery tufts. hollow stem and large, oval leaves with
pointed tips and square bases. Long, lacy
Control: Cut or mow down plants in clusters of tiny white flowers appear at the
late June when the plant is beginning to end of summer.
flower to prevent seed production. Targeted
application of a glyphosate-based herbicide, Control: Pulling young plants is effec-
like Roundup Pro®, or a broadleaf specific tive with repeat visits to remove re-sprouts
Japanese knotweed flowering
Canada thistle with seeds herbicide, like Stinger™ or Confront®, is from stem fragments and root pieces.
effective. Multiple applications may be nec- Cutting back in June followed by an appli-
essary. cation of a glyphosate-based herbicide, like
Roundup Pro®, during September and
early October is effective. Cutting and cov-
ering with black weed plastic may kill small
infestations. Control should be repeated
over several years to be fully successful.
Japanese knotweed mass
Canada thistle flowering New growth of Canada thistle
12 13
Perennials Perennials
Problem
Lesser Celandine Problem
Stilt Grass
(Ranunculus ficaria) (Microstegium vimineum)
Lesser celandine, which was introduced Stilt grass is an annual that probably
as an ornamental plant and is still commer- escaped from its use as a packing material.
cially available, is an herbaceous perennial It grows in full sun to deep shade, crowd-
also known as fig buttercup. It is predomi- ing out native wildflowers and grasses. Stilt
nantly found in moist, forested floodplains. grass prefers moist conditions and spreads
Lesser celandine emerges in early spring vegetatively and by seed, especially in dis- Stilt grass shoots
before most native spring ephemerals turbed areas.
(plants, such as jack-in-the-pulpit, that
emerge, bloom and die back during one Identification: Narrow, elongated leaves
season). Spreading primarily through bul- are alternately spaced along the fine,
Lesser celandine flowering
blets and tubers, it crowds out ephemerals sprawling stems that resemble miniature
by creating a dense carpet across the bamboo. Stilt grass can be differentiated
ground. from other grasses by the presence of a sil-
ver stripe on the midrib of the grass blade.
Identification: Lesser celandine grows to
5 inches and has shiny kidney shaped Control: Remove plants by hand. For
leaves. It looks similar to the native marsh large areas, mow in August /September
marigold (Caltha palustris) which grows to while the plant is in flower to prevent seed
24 inches and does not produce tubers or production. Monocot (i.e. grasses, sedges, Stilt grass seed
form a continuous carpet of growth. yuccas) specific herbicides may be used in
August for extensive infestations when
Control: Remove the entire plant and as mechanical methods are impractical and
many tubers as possible by hand digging for when the nearby desirable species are
small infestations. For large areas, systemic broadleaved plants. Pre-emergent herbi-
herbicides formulated for wet areas, like cides, applied in early spring, will prevent
Rodeo™, should be applied in late winter- stilt grass seeds from germinating.
early spring when it emerges and before
other vegetation is showing green. Add a
Lesser celandine on forest floor
surfactant to help the herbicide adhere to
the leaves.
Stilt grass leaves
14 15
Perennials Perennials
Problem
Mile-A-Minute Problem
Japanese Hops
(Polygonum perfoliatum) (Humulus japonicus)
Mile-a-minute is an herbaceous annual Japanese hops is an herbaceous annual
vine that blankets and smothers native vege- vine that is still currently sold for ornamen-
tation with its rapidly growing trailing tal and herbal purposes. It is primarily a
stems. It spreads by seed and grows in dis- weed of abandoned fields and open dis-
turbed, moist areas in sun or part shade. It turbed areas, and rapidly climbs or trails
Mile-a-minute fruit has been observed overtopping kudzu and along the ground displacing native vegeta- Japanese hops leaves
Japanese honeysuckle. tion.
Identification: Mile-a-minute has trian- Identification: Japanese hops is covered
gular leaves and funnel shaped sheaths that with small velcro-like barbs that are turned
wrap around the stem. It possesses sharp downward on the stem. Its leaves can cause
downward pointing barbs, lending to its dermatitis in sensitive individuals. It looks
other common name devil’s tear-thumb. It similar to wild cucumber, which has ten-
produces a spike of small green flowers fol- drils and does not have barbs.
lowed by round blue berries.
Control: Pull plants anytime before
Control: This plant is easily removed by September to prevent seed production.
hand in July and August before the seed When pulling the plants, attempt to
sets. Use pre-emergent herbicides in the remove as much of the rootstock as possible Japanese hops vine
Mile-a-minute triangular leaf and barbs early spring to reduce mile-a-minute seed to reduce resprouting. Spot applications of
germination in areas of known infestation. a glyphosate-based herbicide, like Roundup
Pro®, prior to flowering, should damage
the plant enough so it will not be able to
flower and set seed. Japanese hops seed is
typically exhausted in three years. The first
two years of control will be the most time-
consuming. After that, the number of
plants will drop dramatically.
Japanese hops
Mile-a-minute with one season’s growth
16 17
controlling
Other Threatening Alien Species
Backyard Invaders
In addition to the highly invasive plants pictured in this brochure, the follow-
ing list of plants, provided by the Delaware Invasive Species Council, are known
invasive species. Restricted and invasive plants are equally problematic; however,
they have a more localized distribution in Delaware. Some are still sold in many
nursery and garden centers. Alternatives to some of these invasive plants still grown
and sold can be found in the Plants for a Livable Delaware companion booklet.
Widespread and Invasive Restricted and Invasive
• Norway maple • Japanese barberry
Acer platanoides Berberis thunbergii
• Common reed • Periwinkle
Phragmites australis Vinca minor
• Hydrilla • Burning bush
Hydrilla verticillata Euonymus alata
• Morrow’s honeysuckle • Bradford pear
Lonicera morrowii Pyrus calleryana ‘Bradford’
• Sweetautumn clematis • Marsh dewflower
Clematis terniflora Murdannia keisak
• Privet • Purple loosestrife Plants for a Livable Delaware companion brochure
Ligustrum species Lythrum salicaria lists great alternatives to some widely planted invasive species. Pick up a copy at
• European sweetflag • Reed canarygrass your Delaware Cooperative Extension office (New Castle County, 302-831-2506;
Acorus calamus Phalaris arundinacea Kent County, 302-730-4000; Sussex County, 302-856-7303); The Delaware
• Wineberry • Amur honeysuckle Department of Agriculture, 1-800-282-8685; The Delaware Center for
Rubus phoenicolasius Lonicera maackii Horticulture, 302-658-6262; or the Delaware Nature Society, 302-239-2334.
• Tartarian honeysuckle
Lonicera tatarica
• Tree of heaven
Ailanthus altissima
• Spotted knapweed
Centaurea biebersteinii
Restricted and Potentially-Invasive
• Butterfly bush
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Buddleia davidii the basis of race, color, gender, religion, ancestry, national origin, sexual orientation, veteran status, age, or disability
in its education programs, activities, admissions, or employment practices as required by Title IX of the Education
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accessibility should be referred to the Affirmative Action Office, 305 Hullihen Hall, (302) 831-2835 (voice), (302)
831-4563 (TDD).
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