Scribd
Upload
603 views47 pages

Shellback Dinghy

fghfdh

Uploaded by

AttilaVájer
Copyright
© All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF or read online on Scribd
603 views47 pages

Shellback Dinghy

fghfdh

Uploaded by

AttilaVájer
Copyright
© All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF or read online on Scribd
As How to Build the Shellback Dinghy y Erie Dow Photographs by Sherry Streeter Kit Parts List “ ed teu "| (unk insert Degpeibowa aE “Ns =e — Middle seat cheeks (2) rboard sceeinclarai be et) Breasthook a ier SSS u Seat say block material ‘atom | Daggsboud ok poet : Eas EF =r ‘Ouier vem SS Oartocks (2) Oarlock — sockets (4) Garboard plank 2) | Toon Seenie J — = = = Ey . = : D Masistep—- === towate spacer block material vodelom alatt allo anyag Materials List Bottom from one sheet (4 x 10! of 2" (12mm) mahogany plywood (SNBCC, Bruynzeel, or equal in quality), Rudder blade, daggerboard, and trunk sides will come out of the remainder of this sheet Side planks from two sheets (4 « 12!) of '4" (6.5mm) mahogany plywood (SNBCC, Bruynzeel, or equal). Rudder and tiller cheek pieces will come from remainder. Stem from several pieces Yo » 1'/ * 42" fir or mahogany strips to laminate as shown. Finished siding to be “A ‘Midship frame from enough + x 1!" fir or mahogany strips to laminate as shown. Finished siding to be “". Transom from '* (18mm) mahogany plywood as above, Requires piece 18 * 36°, Seats from 38"-, 40"-, and 50'-long pieces of 1 x 8" cedar or pine Guardrails from wwvo pieces % « 1'4" oak or mahogany, 12" long, Inwales (optional) '* x Ys" x 12" from oak or mahogany Knees and breasthook from enough 7 * 6" ‘mahogany to make four knees and two breast- hook pieces, Seat support blocks from 1's" x 2/6" » 5° mahogany. KeeV/skeg from 14" » 5° « 10’ mahogany. Daggerboard trunk logs from one piece 1" Vax 27" mahogany. Daggerboard trunk posts from one piece “Ae * 1 x 25" mahogany Masistep from one piece 1/2 « 3‘ « 6" oak or mahogany. Tiller from one piece ‘ x 3 x 42" mahogany or oak Spars Mast from one piece 3" x 3" x 10’ spruce; may be glued up from two pieces of 2 x 4" clear spruce. Boom from one piece 1?" x 1°/" « 10! spruce. Yard from one piece 1'4" 1's" x 9' spruce. Oars: One pair 77" spruce or ash oars. Oarlocks and sockets. Rudder hangers: One set suitable hardware, available from: The WoodenBoat Store or The Anchorage. Painter {rom at least 15" of "4" Dacron rope. Halyard, sheet, and traveler from about 55° of A" Dacton rope ‘Two '/" round brass thimbles or small blocks, three small bronze or stainless eye straps, one #1 bronze snaphook. Belaying pin: 5" long, from oak, locust, or bronze. Epoxy glue Paint and sandpaper. Chafing strip: '" half-oval brass; about 12'/2' needed. Fastenings: all bronze unless noted Wood screws: (50) 7A" #8 FHWS; plank to guardrail; (100) 1" #8 FHWS; plank to transom, stem, and frame; seat blocks to plank; dagger- board trunk assembly; outer to inner stem; bottom to transom, frame and stem; (42) 1" #10 FHWS; (20) for bottom to keel; (16) for oarlock pads to gunwales; (8) oarlocks to pads; (12) 14" #10 FHWS; breasthook and stern knees to plank; (24) 11" #10 FHWS; (4) for stern knees to transom; (8) for daggerboard trunk to bottom; (12) for guard rails to breasthook and stern knees; (40) 12" #8 FHWS; inwale to guard rail; (14) 2" #12 FHWS, seats to seat support blocks; (14) #12 brass finish washers (optional for seats); (30) *A" #6 FHWS brass chafe strip to boat; Machine screws: (1) a"-20 x 4" FHMS; keel to bottom; (2) "20 x 24" FHMS; mast step to bottom, (4) 14*-20 nut; keel to bottom: mast step to bottom; (3) a" washer; keel to bottom; mast step 10 bottom; (1) Y"=20 = 2" RHMS; for tiller; (1) 4" 1D « 1" copper pipe; tiller bushing; (16) #10 = 14" FHMS; oarlock sockets to guardrail; (2) ax 24" FHMS; maststep to botom. Tools Claw hammer Block plane ‘Smoothing plane Spokeshave Burt chisel, about "4" Crosscut handsaw, fairly fine Hacksaw Tape or folding rule Framing square Combination square Sliding bevel square Spirit level Set of twist drills in sizes to A" Countersink Small electric drill with '4" or ¥#" chuck C-clamps, about a dozen 4" to 6" Sharpening stone for edge tools Manual screwdriver—the type of your choice as Jong as its bit fits the screw slots Pencils Wood rasps Mill file (for metal) Putty knife Scraper Center punch Optional tools that will make the job go more quickly Bandsaw Sabersaw Electric drill press with Y" or °/4" chuck Variable-speed electric or cordless drills for drilling holes and driving screws; two will make the job go faster Regular and drywall bits for drill screw gun Portable electric plane Bench grinder (for sharpening edge tools) Combination taper drills/countersinks for the screw sizes used log! vodelom alatt allo anyag Cutting the Pieces and Laminating the Stem and ’Midship Frame pattern sheet and begin. The patterns allow the builder to bypass the lofting process and transfer the shapes of the station molds, ‘midship frame, and transom directly to wood. Here, points are being pressed along 4 mold station line into 'A" construction-grade ply- wood. The drawing, secured with pushpins, has been positioned so the baseline falls along the factory edge of the plywood pressed of the pieces and to locate reference marks such as the centerline and sheer points, the drawing can be removed and the outline penciled in (use a batten for curved shapes) eel comf ble, without going i will mak thing the disagreeable grain of the plywood less of a chore later. A block plane, set very fine, works well for cles ing up to the line jecause | plan to bu fe Shellbacks in the ure, I made a pattern for each piece out plywood. If you're building just one boat, paper works just as well. Here, my pattern is positioned on the 14" marine plywood transom stock and traced. This oper- ation can also be done directly from the drawing, as were the molds he bevels for the transom edges are noted on the pattern sheet and may be sawn by setting the bandsaw table to the proper angle, This is easier to do than it appears, but ifit seems too unnerving, saw the shape square and cut the bevel with a plane. Shellbacks have a 'midship frame which provid © strength and stiffness to the hull. tt is laminated using this clamping jig, The shape, ti tern drawing, has been transferred to {" construction grade plywood. Here, cleats are being screwed in place to help keep the glued strips in alignment. nc is made of two layers of 0 the stem greater width), fastened together. thickness ns may va pending on the type and quality of wood being, used. Generally, if single layer will bend around the shape of the jig without breaking, then a stack of many strips will also make the bend. I'm using " Douglas fir veneer, sawn into 14" strips. It will take 18 strips to provide a stack of sufficient thickness for the ‘mid ship frame. A rather thick, slow-curing epoxy is spread ‘generously on the top surface of each strip. All surfaces of the jig have ging tape to ensure release rather loosely to ac been lined with p nce the epoxy has cured stic packa A in both dire sprung into place. A larger clamp here makes easier work of what can be a rather difficult push, The ends tend to slip sideways and head rapidly for your chin unless a clamp is installed to that lower cleat as well before you release your grip. can be gradually slacked off, and finally re Scraping off the excess epoxy while its still wet will make smoothing the cured frame much easier ed and he 'midship frame. A film of plastic tape was applied between the strips of what will be the inner and outer stems so that they could be laminated together and separated after cure bu worked down with a hand plane. Drywall screws temporarily driven to keep the inner and outer stems from separating while being surfaced. After the screws have been removed, a sli stem can be set aside, and the inner one can now be cut to shape and ing to the full-sized pattern ked with reference lines accord- Here, a line of small common nails has been positioned with their heads on the outline of the center frame. By carefully positioning the frame on these nails and thumping it with a mallet in several places, the nailheads will ransfer the shape. The points can then be connected with lines and the center frame sawn to its proper shape n positioned on the The finished fi pattern sheet and a cross spall is screwed in place at the position indicated. Sheer pointsand a cen- terline are also transferred to the frame and spall , 1 be ir 8 f ts sometimes possible to buy these panels pre-scarfed for length, but often more appealing (and less expen- sive) results can be obtained by doing this yourself Start with three 4 x 8 sheets, Cut one in half (so it's 44), and along the factory ends of what are now four panels, draw a line 2" in from the ing the basis of an 8-to-1-ratio scarf y ate an even taper but a power plane used carefully is fast and clean. The planing of two sheets at a time is being done here at sawhorse height, with a board placed under the ply- wood edges for support fey Finishing with a belt sander has brought t edge. When the glue lines of the plies appear straight and even, it sa sign that the job has been completed. there are people scarfing, what follows is a very reli able, rather easy way. The base surface of this press is at sawhorse height. Epoxy is applied generously to the scarf surface. If you're using rather thin epoxy, it might be wise to apply a prime coat first to avoid too much penetration of the second application into the edge grain adjoining panel is brought d, and then both are scr base piece to ensure they stay in position. With a plas- tic film both under and over this joint, a second pair of scarfed panels can be set in place and the process repeated a board slightly wider laid over the joint and the sliding pressure board is lowered into place. More plastic film than the searfet Tused to use three hydraulic jacks for apply ing pressure, but have since found that wooden blocks cut to the right length and set firmly in place allow a greater feel for the amount of pressure being applied. Remember that epoxy requires less pres- sure than other types of glue. The Shellback layout sheet cont: s that, when plotted at full 12-long scarfed panel, give the shapes of the hull’ planks. Here, a batten is sprung and tacked along the measured points, ater which it will be sighted for fair- ness and penciled in. Once all three planks are drawn, they can be cut out. A circular saw works well, being, quick and easy to control while sawing out the long, gentle curves, Dress to the lines with your favorite plane, and proceed to use these planks as tracing pat- tems for their mates, Remember to transfer any refer- ence marks (such as “frame placement”) from the drawing to the planks. Building the Ladder Frame and Setting Up then laid th its “enterline and mold lines as a be or me g up begins by building the ladder frame urements, These lines are also necessary while setting up, so don’t erase them. Ifthe required 10' plywood is notavailable, you can scarf two pieces to length as with the sides. shown he plan, using quality straight, preferably dry lumber. When the ladder frame has been leveled athwartships by shimming between ivand the sawhorse, it should be screwed in place, Its also helpful if the horses can be fastened to the floor. @J The correct angle for the placement of the ansom support boards is lifted from the plans with a bevel square. The boards drywall screws, a This same angle is also hull. Its now time to sweep the floor and turn atte aftermost 1 = 2 crosspiece tion to the setup. tached with 10st pieces involved in the setup. wed on the back edge of the 10 marked at either end of the chalkline is snapped between them, which marks a centerline on all crosspieces. These marks should be penciled in for future reference. Next, the two station molds are aligned he proper side of the crosspiece, tempora ily clamped with centerlines matching, then screwed in place The ‘midship frame is installed in the same way. Remember to cut the limber holes in the frame’ bottom edge, as shown. ioning cleat screwed to he transom is brought up under the ladder crosspiece and, with the center- lines in agreement, the transom is clamped to its sup- port boards. Next, pilot holes are drilled and drywall screws driven, Onlookers may cringe at the thought of marring the mahogany transom with temporary fas- tenings, but these holes will be bunged later on. and ‘mid 1. Note the con struction of the forward end of the building ladder, with the fore-ancl-aft 2 x 4 that will support the stem. Planking tioned by centerlines. The pl distance from the forward face of its 2"-wide cleat to the notch that will support the stem screws can be drilled through into the transom, ‘mid- ship frame, and stem. A single screw is installed first at the transom so that the forward end of the panel can pivot, if necessary, into alignment. The centerline and transom mark on the bottom panel must be checked for position before drilling this hole Ifthe setup is correct, lines tra the full-sized patterns to the ster will fa the top of the construction base and forward face of the forward station mold (No. Ys on the plans). If this doesnt happen, check all your measurements in this area to determine what’ wrong. Before installation, plane a rough bevel on the stem’ sides, using the cross- sectional view on the full-sized pattern sheet asa guide helpful to hold the forward end bottom panel to the stem while drilling After you've drilled all the holes, remove the panel, clean the contact surfaces of drilling dust, apply epoxy. 12 and reposition and screw down the bottom perma- nently. Temporary screws may be driven into the mold edges if the bottom tends to lift away from them, he stem bevel should join the pm be na smooth transition; it can be checked for any needed adjustments by holding a batten actoss the first two molds to simulate the inside surf of the ‘garboard where it meets the stem. The planks them- selves could also be used for this purpose. he edges of the bottom panel must now be peveled to give a landing for the garboard planks, Start with a very sharp plane, held at about the same angle at which molds, frame, and transom meet the bottom. Work along the entire length rather than bevelinga short area at a time, Notice that a batten has been tacked in place along the surfaces about where the garboards will land. The garboard planks come next. Start by post joning one of them with its edge at the firs knuckle of the center frame. Don’t allow it to drop below this point. You transferred the “frame” marks ‘when cutting the plank, and now with the frame place- ‘ment mark determining fore-and-aft alignment, drive small nail through the plank to hold it in place. Repeat the process at the transom. Bring the plank edge to the ‘second lap” mark at the stem, and tack or clamp it in place there. The plank should lie in the right place at the station molds also, but their agreement here is Not as crucial as at the three permanent points. Pilot holes can now be drilled for the bronze screws that, along with epoxy, will hold the garboard planks in place. lush with ne inside fac batten, and allowing t stick to rest along the surface of the bevel, accuracy ccan be checked at any point between stations. Planing is complete when the bevel checks correct and the edge of the bottom has been worked down to nearly a feather edge 13 a line parallel h nf the screws wont break through i le of the boat. These holes should also be set back from the plank edge so the screw won't be hit when you're planing the edge of the plank flush with the bottom. [tS easier to position screw holes in the rather narrow stem bevel if length is marked and trimmed away first st of the excess plank Withall screw holes drilled and the fit c or all mating surfaces, remove the garbos brush away the drilling dust, and apply a generous coat of epoxy. The edges of the plywood station molds should be covered with plastic tape to prevent squeezed-out epoxy from bonding them to the hull Once the epoxy has been s} no longer work because the surfaces pery. Installing the garboard is easier if you first screw into the ‘midship frame. This will keep the plank balanced while the ends are screwed down. One method of cl seam snugly togetl is to use drywall screws driven through as s not necessary to pre-

You might also like