Alexandria University
Faculty of Engineering
Textile Department
Slub yarn
Moustafa Abdeltwab
Introduction
Slub yarn is a yarn containing varying
thicknesses which is produced by
changing the speed of the bottom rollers
on the spinning frame. We can achieve the
various size and irregularity of slub yarn
by slightly modifying the production
process. Slub yarn began to be used in the
creation of slub silk. It is generally used to
make upholstery, lace, net curtains and
house hold fabrics. It is widely been used
to produce denim fabrics and more vivid
casual wear.
Abstract
How to get sub yarn , and get its
properties.
Definition
a yarn with thick and thin sections
alternating regularly or irregularly.
Structure
A simple slub yarn structure is composed of
two parts, the base part and the slub part.
Figure 1 indicates the geometrical parameters
of the two parts. The appearance of slub yarn
is influenced by the length and linear density
of each constituent part. The boundary of the
base part and slub is
defined as half of the height of the trapezoid
of the slub.
Procedures:
There are several methods to get
slub yarn :
a)
PRODUTION OF SLUB YARN ON
ROTOR SPINNING MACHINE.
There are several methods for producing slub
yarn on Rotor spinning machine.
b)
Production of slub yarn by
feeding additional material.
By means other the sliver feed roller (15) as
mentioned in the method of feeding additional
material on the Ring spinning machine. The
first (the base sliver) was fed continuously,
while the second additional sliver was fed
intermittently with the computer, it was
possible to program the movement of the
additional sliver feed.
c)
Production of slub yarn by excess
feeding method.
The variable speed of the sliver feed roller was
achieved by use of a special unit (15), called
(GOE unit stands for ground slub Open End)
produced by Swiss manufacturer. It was made
up of two parts. One part was the mechanical
drive system for the sliver feed roller,
consisting mainly of a servomotor with
accessories, and was built in to the Rotor
spinning machine. The other part, standing by
the side of the machine, was a computer. With
the computer, it was possible to program the
movement of the sliver feed roller. Hence a
basic speed could be chosen and, from this,
higher speeds during various times and with
various time intervals could be set.
The resulting slubs according to a set program
have constant or different thickness, length
and spacing.
But this method has some limitation in the slub
formation. The slub thickness is limited and
cannot produce slub shorter than Rotor
circumference.
The working principle of the slub yarn device in
Rieter(16) is based on a variable, motor driven
feed of sliver into the rotor and a constant yarn
delivery to the bobbin. The slub yarn device is
fully integrated into the existing machine
electronics. The system does not require any
space for extra control units. The machine
parameters as well as the slub system settings
can be entered on the machine control panel.
The slub programming software and SLUBLink
memory card for data transfer from PC to the
Rotor spinning machine are included in the
standard equipment. The slubs can be
programmed at regular or irregular length and
spacing.
Capio(17) has long been involved in the
manufacture of equipment for the production
of slub yarn. On the Open End Rotor spinning
machines by means of the Capio device is
controlled pneumoelectronically. It has the
same limitation of Swiss manufacturer.
d)
Production of slub yarn by the
pressurized air method.
Slub yarn (13) is produced on Rotor spinning
machines by partly blocking the evenly
distributed fibre flow in the fibre transport
channel by injecting pressurized air achieved
by using a nozzle, which can be located at
different places in the fibre transport channel,
and the direction of the nozzle can be
perpendicular to the fibre flow or against or
with the fibre flow at different angles. The
diameter of the nozzle and the air pressure can
be varied with certain limits. This method
causes a periodic accumulation of fibres, which
constitute the slub, i.e., some fibres are held
back for a time while the rest are forming a
yarn. The thick places are created when
material is let free, i.e., when the air injection is
stopped or the mass of accumulated fibres is
large enough to overcome the resistance of a
continuously blowing air jet. The thin places
are created when some material is held back,
i.e., during the accumulating period. The
pressurized air method can produce slubs
shorter than the Rotor circumference, but it is
difficult to obtain effects longer than the Rotor
circumference.
e)
Production of slub yarn by
combination of excess material
and pressurized air methods.
Because of the limitation of the excess material
method and the pressurized air method, it was
decided to accumulate the two methods to
remove this [Link] combination occurs
when the blowing of pressurized air (18) was
controlled by the GOE computer. When the
feeding of the excess material begins, blowing
starts, and, when feeding of the excess
material stops, blowing stops. The intention
with blowing is to divide the GOE effects into
smaller ones. That means that the blowing
should start and stop in phase with the
formation of the GOE effects. When the feed
roller starts feeding excess material, blowing
also commences. But, since the material has to
pass along a part of the opening roller before
reaching the air barrier, and this takes some
time, blowing will, to begin with, affect the
normally fed material. On the other hand; when
excess feeding stops, the blowing stops and
the excess fed material on its way between the
feed roller and nozzle will not be affected.
Investigations have been made in order to find
out the importance of the above mentioned out
of phase blowing. One way was using a time
rely set to give a proper time delay for the
opening and closing of the air valve. Another
method was to build in an extra volume of air
between the air valve and nozzle. Since it took
some time to fill this volume when the air valve
was opened, the blowing began later. When the
valve was closed, the extra volume of air had
to pass through the nozzle, and the blowing
ceased later. The time delay could be varied by
varying the air volume. A third way was to
program the time delay directly from the GOE
unit. It could, however, never be stated that
the out of phase blowing had any significance
on the appearance of the yarn or its
mechanical properties.
Different types of slub yarn
Slub over slub with different length &
thickness
For the preparation of this type of yarn in the
same duration of overfeed the amount of
overfeed is varied many times depending on
the different thickness of slub
required. Fig 3
Multicount
yarn
Each slub in a slub yarn can be
extended to make a multicount yarn, ie,
multicount yarn is a yarn in which the count of
yarn changes at intervals along its length. In
multicount yarn the yarn count changes
within a pattern repeat, the yarn twist
remains unchanged and the yarn twist
multiplier changes due to the yarn sections
with different count(6). Multicount effect is a
special kind of effect produced by
synchronised draft and twist variation with
control devices. Multicounts are produced
with a second servomotor connected to the
front roll(4). Multicount yarn can also have
short slubs in each count and this type of yarn
is known as Multicount - Multislub yarn.
Multicount yarn are presently in great demand
for denim yarns(7). In practice, a pattern
repeat for multicount yarns consist of 2 to 5
yarn counts(6). The length of the yarn sections
in the individual counts is between 0.5 and 5
metres. For denim, short length effects are
interesting, as they can be seen in the trouser
leg or in sleeve. The long yarn effects are
more seldom, and they are rather used for
home textiles.
Multi-twist yarn
In this type of yarn, the yarn count remains
unchanged, but the yarn twist changes and
the yarn twist multiplier changes. These
different twist levels create variations in the
yarn's dye intake, thus creating a special
fabric appearance. The twist difference
causes a colour change in the fabric. Yarn
sections with different twist absorb the colour
particles differently, which causes the colour
effects.
Combination of multicount
& multi-twist
In some cases both methods are combined.
The yarn count changes within a pattern
repeat, the yarn twist changes & the yarn
twist multiplier also changes.
Applications
modern fashion and have been gaining
more importance in the clothing sector,
especially denim,
and in furnishing and draperies. Demand for
complex
fabrics with distinguishing characteristics is
increasing,
conquering larger shares of the textile market.
Conclusion
There is a great demand of slub and
multicount yarns in suiting, shirting, denim
and home textiles especially in coarse count
and with the help of latest technology it is
possible to produce the yarns like slub,
multicount, multi-twist and combinations of
multicount & multi-twist with the help of
various attachments and machines available
in a controlled and reproducible manner as
per the effect requirement.
Refrences:
1. Wilson, I, Before the Flood, Orion, London,
2001.
2. Wayland Barber, E, The Mummies of
rmchi, Macmillan, Basingstoke, 1999.
3. de Saint-Aubin, C G, Art of the
Embroiderer, 1770 (loc. Museum of
London).