Trimming Windows

Get the jambs flush with the drywall,

and the miters come easily
BY JIM BLODGETT

THE PARTS AND P I E C E S

OF W I N D O W T R I M
Traditional window trim includes a stool, which
most people think of as the sill. In contemporary
houses, another piece of extension jamb is often
substituted for the stool. Windows with no stool
usually receive four pieces of casing assembled
like a picture frame.

e constantly look through windows. A well-trimmed window

enhances the view the same way a
picture frame enhances the art it surrounds.
As with a picture frame, window trim should
stand up to critical scrutiny but not draw
your eye. Doing a good job trimming windows is a matter of following an efficient sequence, understanding what has to be done
when and slowing down enough to do your
best work.
I usually trim windows in one of two ways.
They either have stools, the horizontal piece
at the window's bottom where the cat sits
(drawing facing page), or they don't and are
picture-framed with casing. In either case,
since the energy crisis of the 1970s brought
on the demand for thicker insulation, most
houses I work on are framed with 2x6 studs.
Windows, though, are generally still configured for 2x4 walls, so I have to extend the jamb
to bring the window flush with the drywall.
I usually trim the widest, tallest windows
on a job first. This way, if I cut something
too short on the larger windows, I might be
able to recut and use the trim on a smaller
window. I also identify the most visible windows on the job, usually the kitchen, living
room, entry and master bedroom, and try to
use the best-looking stock in those highvisibility areas.
First, mark all the details on a
story pole
Before cutting stock, I trim any drywall that
extends past the framing and remove any
blobs of taping mud. Drywall dust is extremely abrasive and will quickly scratch
trim, particularly prefinished material. Because of this risk, I take a minute to sweep
the room clean after I prepare the openings.
Then, assuming that I'm trimming more
than a handful of windows, I make up story
poles (photo and drawing, right). Story poles
are lumber or plywood scraps with all the
relevant dimensions for a job marked on
them full scale.
I refer to story poles throughout the job for
measurements. Story poles reduce the possibility of errors in measurement that can happen when reading a rule or tape. I use two
story poles for each size of window: one each
for height and width.
After labeling the marks and doublechecking all reveals and measurements, I cut
the poles to length at their widest marks. A
word of caution: Sometimes the reveal between the bottom jamb extension or stool
and the window will differ from the other
three reveals. Casement windows often have
cranks at the bottom, and you need to be

certain that you have left the space for them

to turn.
To get trim straight, you might have
to install crooked jamb extensions
I start by ripping jamb extensions, usually
nominal 1-in. stock, slightly wide on a table
saw. This width leaves some meat for trimming. I set my blade at 2 or 3 to bevel
slightly the edge of the jamb extension that
meets the window. The slight point of this
bevel is on the visible side of the jamb extension and helps to ensure a nice fit.
When possible, I cut all four jamb extensions for a window consecutively from a single board. This technique keeps the boards
color-matched, and the grain usually meets
at all but the last corner, where the opposite
ends of the board meet up. I think about how
this window will most often be viewed and
put the last joint where it seems least conspicuous. I usually cut the top and bottom
jamb extensions the same length as the window width plus reveals, and cut the side jamb
extensions to lap the top and bottom ones.
But I'm getting ahead of myself. Before
cutting extensions to their final lengths, I rip

them to their exact widths. Because it's likely

that I'll be custom-tapering each piece,
though, I have to cut the long stock close to
its final length. I cut all the pieces 2 in. oversize and number their backs sequentially.
So that the subsequent casing joints will lie
flat and fit well, it's critical that the jamb extensions end up in plane with the surface of
the wall, particularly at the corners. Because
windows rarely seem to be installed exactly
parallel to drywall, jamb extensions usually
need to taper to come up flush with the drywall. On new construction, it's not unusual to
have to taper the jamb extensions as much as
in. There's no telling what you'll find on a
remodel. The alternative is bashing the drywall even with the jambs, an inelegant solution
that at best gets the two only close to flush.
I find the widths of the jamb extensions at
the windows' corners by measuring to a
straightedge held against the finished wall
(photo top left, p. 64). Then I taper the jamb
extension as needed on the table saw (bottom photo, drawing, p. 64).
I test-fit the jamb extensions once they're
tapered, then nail them into a boxlike unit.
Before setting this unit, I nail cedar shingles

S T O R Y P O L E S A R E T H E D N A OF W I N D O W T R I M

One vertical and one horizontal

story pole per window speeds
accurate production by providing a
ready benchmark for cutting all the
pieces of trim.

Story poles contain all the information

needed to cut the stock to length. This includes the width of the window, the reveals between the window and the jamb
extensions, and between the jamb extensions and the casing; the width of the casing; and finally, the distance the stool, if
any, extends past the casing.

INSTALLING JAMB EXTENSIONS

Each corner is measured so that jamb extensions can

be cut exactly. Even on new construction, it's com-

mon for the window to be considerably out of plane

with the wall.

Set shims before installing the jamb extensions. The

reveal added to the thickness of the jamb extensions
gives the author the distance that the shims must be
from the edge of the window jamb.

TAPERING JAMB
EXTENSIONS

WITH A TABLE SAW

to the studs; the shingles shim the jamb extensions to leave the proper reveal on the
window jamb (photo top right). I'll typically

shim every 2 ft. or so.

Next, I slide the assembled jamb extensions
into place. I nail them just below the shims,

using 6d or 8d finish nails. This step allows

me to fine-tune the shims if necessary.

When I like the reveal, I cut the shims to

length using a sharp knife. Now is the time
to stuff the space between the jamb extension and the framing with insulation or minimally expanding foam.

Window stools are the traditional

lower-jamb extension
Windows with a stool in place of the bottom
jamb extension are only a little more complicated. I start by cutting the stool to length,

To make up for framing discrepancies, jamb extensions usually need to be customtapered to end up flush with the wall. The author marks the jamb width on the scrap
areas. Then he affixes a wider straightedge, say a 4-in. ripping of plywood, to the
jamb extension with its edge 1 in. in from the marks. With the rip fence set 1 in. over
the straightedge's width, passing this assembly through the saw rips the taper exactly.

based on marks on the story pole. If I plan to

return the ends of the stool to hide the end
grain (drawing p. 66), I cut the stock several

inches too long. Some carpenters say that

hidden end grain marks a professional trim
job; I say it depends on the nature of the job.

For example, I would not return the horns on

Craftsman-style window stools because exposed end grain is a characteristic of the style.

NOTCH THE S T O O L
sharp handsaw (bottom photo). However, I

usually make the notch's crosscut with a

chopsaw. The remaining part of the stool
that extends onto the wall is called the horn.
I test-fit the stool and make any minor adjustments to fit it tightly to the window and
to the walls with a plane or a rasp. Although
the bottom of the casing leg covers much of
the horn, its ends will show, so I take a little

extra time to get a good fit against the wall.

When I like the fit, I mark where the jamb
extensions will meet the stool. A couple of
6d finish nails through the bottom of the
stool in the ends of the jamb extensions holds

them together. The top jamb extension is

nailed to the legs, and I slide the assembly
into the window opening (photo top left).
Sometimes I hide the end grain of the horn

with returns, where the end of the horn is

mitered and a matching mitered piece of
stool is glued in place. I begin by leaving the
stool a few inches long on both ends. After

Shims support the stool for layout. The

author marks the notch cut on the stool,

then measures between it and the window
to lay out the rip cut for the horn.

notching the horn, I miter-cut the returns

from it; then I mark and miter-cut the stool

Installing the jamb extensions as a unit.

After tapering the pieces individually, the

author cuts them to their final length and

assembles them into a unit with the stool.

to its overall length. Mitering the return

pieces from the horn scrap lets me wrap the
grain around the corner.

Picture-frame style casing calls for

four perfect miters
With the jamb extensions in place, the win-

No design rule is hard and fast, not even one

seemingly as basic as no end grain showing.
After cutting the stool, I temporarily support
it at its finished height on shims to lay out

the notch that will bring the stool in contact

with the window (photo above right).
With the stool centered on the window
and tight against the drywall, I measure the
distance between it and the window next to

each trimmer stud. (It's common for measurements to differ at each end.) I square out
the appropriate distance on each end of the
stool, marking where I will crosscut the notch

that fits the stool between the trimmers.

Without moving the stool, I scribe it to the
wall (center photo). Using the scribe line as

my starting point, I mark on the stool the

measurement between the stool and the
window. I mark the stool in two spots: at the
end of the stool and at the crosscut mark.
Connecting the points marks the rip cuts.

There is often a -in. or -in. gap between

the wall and the end of the uncut stool. Laying out the stool in this manner should account for these gaps and fit the stool tightly
to the wall and to the window.

Because the rip cut is seldom parallel to the

front of the stool, I cut it quickly with a

dow is ready for casing. As with the jamb extensions, I try to cut all four pieces of casing
consecutively from a single board.
Getting all four miters tight can be tricky.

I've seen the air turn blue and the kindling

pile grow as a carpenter tried to fit a board
that was mitered at both ends. If the jamb
extensions are slightly proud of the wall, either because they were cut wrong or because

nailing the casing to the wall pushes the drywall tighter to the studs, the casing cants
slightly backward. This causes the pieces to
hinge on the backside of the miter, opening
the face of the joint. I avoid this problem by
slightly carving out the ends of the miters
with a knife (center photo, p. 66).
Taking the measurements from my story
pole, I miter both ends of the four pieces of
casing. I install the head piece, then the two
legs and finally the bottom piece, changing
mitered angles slightly with the saw or block
plane. I back-cut as needed and work my
way around the opening.
I use just enough nails or brads to hold the
casing in place until the joints look good. I
first nail the casings to the jamb extensions,
then glue and nail the miters (preferably
from the top and bottom), using 3d finish

Scribing the stool to the wall. Because the

wall is rarely parallel to the stool, this

mark, not the edge of the stool, is the

baseline for laying out the horn's rip cut.

Notching the stool. Although he uses a

miter saw to make the crosscut, the author
prefers a handsaw for the rip.

RETURNING THE STOOL

Sometimes I hide the end grain of the stool's horn with returns, where the end
of the horn is mitered and a matching mitered piece of stool is glued in place. 1
begin by leaving the stool a few inches long on both ends (1). After notching
the horn, I carefully miter the return pieces from it, and then mark and mitercut the stool to its overall length (2). Finally, I glue the return to the horn so
that the grain wraps around the corner (3).
J. B.

C L O S I N G THE M I T E R S

A gap between the casing leg and

the stool sticks out like a sore
thumb. A casing scrap is used to

check if the stool is square to the

jamb. The author trims the square
windows first, then comes back to

You don't see it, and it just gets

in the way. Removing some stock
behind the face of a miter, or

back-cutting, makes getting a perfect-looking joint easier.

custom-cut the casing for the out-

of-square windows.

Yes, the casing leg is upside down.

With the casing leg's point on the

stool, the author marks its height.

On windows that are trimmed with

stool, marking the casing legs in

place is more accurate than using

the story pole.

nails for both (photo below). I finally nail the

casing to the wall using 6d finish nails.
When picture-framing windows, I sometimes set up the miter saw remotely and cut
and number all the casing pieces in a house
before ever nailing any up. This technique
can speed things considerably by minimizing

stack a pair at each window. As I visit each

window, I hold a square-cut casing scrap in
place to check if a square-cut leg will fit

trips back and forth to the saw.

any discrepancies in miter or length. If

Casing windows that have stools

everything looks good, I back-cut the miter,

spread a little carpenter's glue on the miter

As with picture-frame windows, I try to cut

and nail the leg in place.

all the pieces of casing consecutively from

the same board. On windows that have a
stool, however, taking only the two legs and
the head from the same board is okay. The
bottom piece of casing, or apron, doesn't

touch the legs. It runs underneath the stool,

so grain differences aren't as apparent.
I cut and install the head casings first, again

referring to the story pole for dimensions. I

then miter the legs, one left and one right for
each window, leaving them an inch long, and

against the stool (photo left, facing page).

I mark the casing legs' length (photo right,
facing page). This step shows me its length,
and I cut and test-fit the leg, checking for

I don't use story poles to lay out the casing

legs of windows that receive a stool because
in this case, marking the legs in place is more
accurate. This is particularly true if the window is slightly out of square and if I have to

cut the leg's bottom at an angle.

THREE WAYS
TO CLAMP A
RETURN
Returns hide end
grain. Apron
returns are so
small that nailing

can split them

and moisture in
glue can warp
them and ruin the
fit. Clamping
them until the
glue sets is a
good idea.

For out-of-square windows, I use a bevel

gauge to find the angle at which to cut the

bottom of the casing legs. I cut these legs a
bit long and test-fit each angle before cutting
the leg to finished length. Finally, I nail up
through the stools into the bottom of the
casing legs to tighten those joints.

Finally, I install the aprons. For material

with a profile, say a colonial casing, I usually

cut mitered returns on the ends of the

aprons so that end grain doesn't show (pho-

tos above right). This step is similar to cutting returns for stools (drawing facing page).
Because of their small size, cutting these
returns can be trickier than cutting stool returns. When I complete the cut, I release the

trigger and wait for the blade to stop spinning before raising it. Sometimes the return
shoots out the back of the saw, but it usually
tips over harmlessly next to the blade. I then
cut the required miters on the ends of the

TIE ON THE A P R O N

apron and glue the returns in place. Pinch

clamps (photo above right; $3 per clamp;

The Peck Tool Co.; 800-454-8665;

[Link]) are a great way to hold
returns in place until the glue sets.
Craftsman-style trim is usually buttjoined, so it goes a bit quicker than mitered
trim. I cut the head so that it will overhang
the legs by
in. or so, depending on the
customer's wishes. And I install the legs first
so that eyeing a symmetrical overhang is
easier. Of course, on Craftsman-style trim, I
don't use returns. Whatever style aprons I
use, I usually cut them the same length as
the width of the casing, leaving the same reveals above and below the stool. I spread the
aprons around the room and nail as many as

I can at once. Often the wall right below a

Tacking the top of the miter leaves a

nail hole that needs no filling. This nail
does little to tighten the miter, but
rather helps to keep the head and leg in
plane when they're nailed to the wall.

window is not perfectly flat, so I use 8d nails

to suck the apron tight against the wall.

Jim Blodgett owns A Small Woodworking Company

in Roy, Washington. Photos by Andy Engel.

The final act of carpentry when trimming a window is setting the apron. Its
ends should line up with the edge of casing
legs, and it should fit snugly to the stool.