W
ales is not familiar territory. Ive had a pint with
many of the merry folk on this dour isle of ours,
but I cant recall the last occasion I partied with
our Brythonic brethren. Yet as the taxi rumbles up the long
drive of Bryn Pydew Hills Western slope I feel at home.
The wrought-iron fences give one clue, the tasteful
hues of paint perhaps another, and then further up comes
the unmissable symbol, the oak leaf the symbol of
Britain that predates the English; the icon of a tree so
sacred that St Boniface felt the need to chop it down just
to make a point a leaf that
points to the ownership of this
great tower, sulkily looming in
the shadow of the clouds, being
(like some of our banks) part of
the national inheritance.
This rocky outcrop was
originally the fifth century
stronghold of Cadwallon
Lawhir, King of Gwynedd,
when the Romans were retreating and Britain was up
for grabs. You dont have to have the imagination of a
Coca-Cola enhanced eight-year-old to picture the scene:
the tower has such an intense atmosphere it almost looks
painted. And it was given to the National Trust seven
years ago after a restoration in the 1980s.
Just entering Bodysgallen Hall can be very
disorientating for the unprepared metropolitan. There is
no shabby-chic chandelier, no exposed filaments and no
semi-ironic nods to the past. Instead it has fireplaces that
you could roast entire hogs on, dark oak panelling, leaden
frames with heavy-set men who once patrolled the Marches
and furniture that could be mistaken for fortifications.
Out of the window one can see the towers older
brother, Conwy Castle, which had the site restored so it
could be used as a watchtower in the 13th century, no doubt
by Edward I not just a malleus to Scots but Welshmen
too. I dont think later Welsh generations liked Edward, or
the Englishmen he settled; I can mostly guess this from the
coat of arms above the fireplace (that of the Wynns) which
contains the severed heads of three Englishmen.
Thankfully, the drama isnt taken into the bedroom
where blankets, tea, sewing kits, bowls of fruit, pleated
lampshades, floral patterns, heavy drapes and a sense that
if your grandmother (God bless her) could bring herself
back as a room, shed immediately materialise in this
form. There is an overwhelming sense of not just keeping
the elements (which are lashing the arrow-sized windows)
at bay but a world that isnt necessarily better than this.
Down below theres not that much sign of this other
world, however. Instead an ocean of greens fight for
supremacy as Boreas blows a sad song through the apple,
pear and fig trees that are scattered around a 200-acre estate
that includes woodland, a rose garden, a knot garden, follies,
ponds and rockeries. Its the only thing here that looks like it
might stand a chance of outlasting the tower.
In the kitchen, Michael Cheetham is weaving
season-based spells. Having played the deputy to both
his predecessors (John Williams and Gareth Jones) he
stands perfectly placed to keep hold of the three rosettes
the dining room has been awarded by the AA. Im most
impressed by not only the simplicity and execution
of the fillet of hake but also by the price of the three
courses, which barely scrapes over the 41 allowance
that constitutes part of the bill for the room. The carrot
and vanilla pure could have easily tipped over into
a saccharine hell but it pulled in its reins, ultimately
respecting its sparring partner.
It was no match, however, for the poached fillet of
Finnan haddock bench-pressing an egg I have for breakfast.
This provides me with an energy I have to use quickly
before its converted into flesh
that is surplus to requirements,
so I toddle around the stone
farmyards, trying to find the spa.
Its disguised as a cottage very
clever. I bet they used that trick on
the Romans when they didnt want
to let them use their baths.
The locker rooms are
practical, not luxurious, and its
a similar story in the gym. In fact, the whole area feels
like a bit of an afterthought to be honest its nice but
in a leisure-centre sort of way. Which is a shame because
overall Bodysgallen Hall has all the ingredients to blow
the competition out of the water.
There is no shabby-chic
chandelier, no exposed
filaments and no semi-ironic
nods to the past
Great British Escape
To the
Tower
Henry Hopwood-Phillips goes to mix with
the Welsh... in a tall tower with stone walls
B E L G R AV I A R E S I D E N T S J O U R N A L
Need to know
A nights stay costs from 90 pp (two sharing)
including breakfast. Contact Pride of Britain
Hotels (0808 163 9208;
[Link]) to book.
BodysgallenHall, The Royal Welsh Way,
Llandudno, North Wales LL30 1RS, 01492
584466 ([Link])
021