Textile Testing & Quality Control-01 With Lab
Assignment On
SHOW THE RELATION BETWEEN DIRECT TO DIRECT AND DIRECT TO INDIRECT
Presented To, [Link] Raihan
Lecturer Dept. of Textile Engineering Daffodil International University
Presented By,
Sanjoy Das 111-23-2294
[Link] Ahmed 111-23-2501 Mushfiqur Rahman 111-23-2307
Dept. of Textile Engineering Daffodil International University
Date of Submission; 8th august
Relation between Direct to Indirect count system 1. COUNT The count is nothing but a numerical expression which defines the thinness or thickness of a yarn. It means that, the yarn count refers how much a yarn is fine or course. We also can say that the yarn count number indicates the length of yarn in relation to the weight. But according to the Textile Institute, they define yarn count as A number indicating the mass per unit length or length per unit mass of a yarn. Yarn count is also known as yarn number or linear density. 2. SYSTEM OF COUNT NUMBERING Different sorts of system or units are used to measuring the yarn count or yarn number which mostly depends on the material used for preparing the yarn and the area where it was manufactured. All the system of count measuring can be grouped as following categories; 2.1 Analytical System & 2.2 Instrumental System.
2.1 Analytical System Actually this process is consisting with some other systems based on several calculations and this is why it is called Analytical system. The systems are including; 2.1.1 Direct System & 2.1.2 Indirect System 2.1.1 Direct System
In this system, the count of the yarn is the number of units of weight per unit length of yarn. This system is mostly used for silk, jute etc. We can work in this system by following categories; Tex Denier & Jute Count Tex It can be defined as the weight present in 1000 meter of yarn in grams where length of yarn is fixed. It means that, for example, if there is a 1000 meter of yarn and have a weight of 20gm then the yarn count will be 20tex. Because tex refers the weight in gram of unit length. Here is the equation for determining the yarn count in Tex; Weight in grams Tex = Length in 1000 meter Sample weight in gm * Unit length (1000m) Tex = Sample length in meter An extra qualification of Tex system we know that it is known as the universal process of yarn count which is introduce by International Standard Organization (ISO) with several textile scientists, technologists and manufacturers. Denier It is defined as the weight of yarn thread in grams presented in per 9000 meter length of that yarn. It is just like about Tex system only has to change the unit length from 1000m to 9000m and then the equation of denier becomes as; Sample weight in gm * Unit length (9000m) Den = Sample length in meter
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As an example we can say about 454 meter of yarn containing 5 gram of weight then the count in Den will be 6 * 9000 Den = 454 = 118.9 den Jute Count The weight of yarn of 1 lb present in 14400 yds length of yarn is known as jute count or pounds per spindle. 2.1.2 Indirect System In this system the count is the number of unites of length per unit weight of yarn. In this case yarn fineness is inverse to the yarn count, it means that the more the yarn count, the finer the yarn. By this system we can measure the count number of cotton, woolen, worsted linen etc. This is also having some sub-system as following; Cotton Count Metric Count & Worsted count.
Cotton Count Actually by the term cotton count can be defined as the number of hanks of 840 yds presented in 1 lb weight of yarn. This is also known as British or English count. It is denoted by Ne The equation of cotton count measurement is as following; Length in hanks of 840 yds Count, Ne = Weight in lbs , or
Sample length in yds * unit weight Ne = Sample weight in lbs * unit length Now for an example, if we consider a yarn sample of 2000 yds with a weight of 0.08 lb then the cotton count will be 2000 * 1 Count, Ne = 0.08 * 840 = Metric Count Metric count is express 1000 gm or 1 kg weight of yarn can contains how many numbers of hanks of 1000 meter. It is denoted by Number The formula of measuring metric count is; Sample length in meter * unit weight Metric Count, Nm = Sample weight in kg * unit length For example, if we consider a yarn of 2000m having the weight of 450g. So the count in metric system will be 2000 * 1 Metric Count, Nm = 0.45 * 1000 = 4.4 Nm Worsted Count It is the number of hanks of 560 yds presented in 1 lb weight of yarn is known as worsted count which is widely used for yarn composed by wool 29.7 Ne
3. CONVERSION OF COUNT
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We can relation the value of count from one to other system by followings only some formulas. So for the relation we may divide them in four groups as following; 1. Relation from direct to direct 2. Relation from direct to indirect There are two formulas to convert the yarn count as given billow 1. Unknown count = Multiplying converting factor * Given count 2. Unknown count = Constant / Given count Here the first one is used for first two group of conversion (direct to direct & indirect to indirect) and second one is for last two group including direct to indirect & indirect to direct. The table of relation factor and the count constant is given billow; Direct to Direct Known yarn count in Tex Denier Jute count Multiplying relation factor for unknown count Tex Denier ------9 0.1111 -----34.45 310
Example; Denier of unknown count = Tex (known count) * 9 Tex of unknown count = 0.1111 * Den or Jute cou o Indirect to Direct Known yarn count in Cotton Metric Constant Tex 590.5 1000 Denier 5315 9000
Example; Metric = 9000/Known Den count Denier = 5315/Known Ne Relation between direct to direct systems
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CONCLUSION An increasingly important branch of textile technology is the geometry of fabric structure, which is mostly depends upon the yarn structure. As a result of yarn structure the appearance, hands feel and some other general behaviour can be changed. Here the term yarn structure indicates the fineness or coarseness of yarn. So it is necessary to develop our knowledge about yarn count before starting work not only for yarn but in the textile world.