Properties of True Wool
True wool is a natural fiber derived from sheep fleece, composed of keratin, a protein also
found in human hair and nails. Its unique structure, with crimps and scales, allows wool to trap
air, providing excellent insulation against both cold and heat. Wool is known for its elasticity,
resilience, and moisture-wicking ability, helping regulate body temperature and keeping
wearers dry and comfortable.
Additionally, wool resists wrinkles and odors, making it low-maintenance. Various grades of
wool, such as soft Merino or coarse Icelandic, are used for different purposes, including
clothing, upholstery, bedding, and insulation, due to its durability, natural flame resistance, and
chemical absorption properties.
Key Properties of True Wool
§ Softness: Fine and flexible fibers provide a gentle feel, with Merino wool being the
softest.
§ Warmth: Excellent insulation traps air, regulating temperature for all climates.
§ Moisture-Wicking: Absorbs up to 30% of its weight in water, keeping skin dry and odor-
free.
§ Durability: Strong, elastic, and resistant to abrasion, tearing, and pilling.
§ Wrinkle-Resistance: Naturally maintains shape without frequent ironing.
§ Fire Resistance: Self-extinguishing, producing minimal smoke and toxic gases.
§ UV Protection: Absorbs UV rays and prevents fabric color fading.
§ Stain-Resistance: Repels liquids, dirt, and static, making cleaning easier.
§ Sustainability: Biodegradable, recyclable, and beneficial for soil quality.
§ Cost: Varies by type, with rare fibers like cashmere being more expensive
Physical Properties of Wool
1. Structure:
o Composed of keratin, a protein with a complex molecular structure.
o Provides elasticity, resilience, and strength.
o Wool fibers can be bent and return to their original shape without breaking.
o Tensile strength:
§ Dry: 1 to 1.7
§ Wet: 0.8 to 1.6
2. Crimp:
o Natural waviness along the fiber length.
o Creates tiny air pockets for insulation against heat and cold.
o Makes wool soft and springy.
3. Scales:
o Microscopic scales on the fiber surface.
o Help interlock fibers, aiding in felting.
o Contribute to wool’s texture and durability.
4. Diameter:
o Varies based on sheep breed and processing method.
o Fine fibers: Smaller diameter, softer texture (e.g., Merino wool).
o Coarse fibers: Larger diameter, more durable.
5. Length:
o Wool fibers vary in length from 35 mm to 250 mm.
o Longer fibers: Smoother and stronger yarns.
o Shorter fibers: More prone to pilling and weaker yarns.
6. Absorbency:
o Wool can absorb moisture up to 30% of its weight.
o Helps regulate body temperature by wicking moisture away.
7. Resilience:
o Wool fibers can return to their original shape after stretching or compression.
o Prevents sagging, enhances durability, and maintains garment shape.
8. Heat & Flame Resistance:
o Wool is naturally flame-resistant due to its high protein content.
o Self-extinguishes when exposed to flames, does not melt or drip.
o Becomes discolored and harsh when exposed to sunlight for long periods.
9. Softness:
o Depends on fiber diameter and processing.
o Fine wool (Merino): Soft and used in luxury textiles.
o Coarse wool: Used in durable applications like carpets and outerwear.
10. Color:
• Can be dyed in a wide range of colors.
• Retains vibrant shades, making it ideal for textiles and home furnishings.
Effects and Chemical Properties of Wool
1. Effect of Alkalis
• Wool keratin is sensitive to alkaline substances.
• Strong alkalis (e.g., caustic soda) dissolve wool, whereas weak alkalis have little to no
effect.
• Cotton is more resistant to alkalis compared to wool.
2. Resistance to Compression
• Measures the force required to compress a fixed mass of wool to a fixed volume.
• Related to fiber diameter, crimp form, and crimp frequency.
• Important for assessing wool’s suitability for specific applications.
3. Resilience
• Wool fibers can be stretched up to 50% of their length when wet and 30% when dry.
• Returns to its original shape after stretching.
4. Effect of Organic Solvents
• Wool is resistant to organic solvents.
5. Effects of Insects
• Wool can be damaged by insects such as moths.
6. Effect of Bleach
• Chlorine bleach is harmful to wool.
• KMnO₄ (potassium permanganate) and Na₂O₂ (sodium peroxide) are used for
bleaching wool safely.
7. Effect of Microorganisms
• Wool can be affected by microbes if kept wet for long periods.
8. Dyeing Ability
• Wool absorbs dyes deeply, uniformly, and directly.
• Acid dyes, chrome dyes, and mordant dyes are commonly used.
• Dye molecules bond well with amorphous areas of wool fibers, giving rich colors.
9. Hygroscopicity
• Wool absorbs water vapor from the environment and sweat from the body.
• This is due to the presence of hydrophilic (-NH₂ and -COOH) groups in keratin.
10. Reactivity
• Wool reacts chemically, especially with alkalis and strong detergents.
• Alkaline solutions can break disulfide bonds (S-S) between cysteine amino acids,
degrading wool fibers.
11. Cross-Linking
• Disulfide bonds (-S-S-) between cysteine amino acids contribute to strength and
resilience.
• Helps wool retain its shape and recover from deformation.
12. pH Sensitivity
• Isoelectric point: pH 4.5–5.5 (most stable and least reactive state).
• Extreme pH (highly acidic or alkaline) can damage wool fibers.
• pH-neutral detergents should be used for wool garments.
13. Flame Resistance
• Wool is naturally flame-resistant due to its chemical composition and moisture content.
• Does not melt or drip, instead it chars and self-extinguishes.
• High nitrogen content releases nitrogen gas, which dilutes oxygen and inhibits
combustion.
Factors Affecting the Quality of Wool
1. Genetic Factors
i. Sheep Breed
• Different breeds produce different wool types (fineness, length, crimp, color, yield).
• Example: Merino sheep produce fine, high-quality wool, while Lincoln sheep produce
coarse, long wool.
ii. Sex and Age
• Rams and wethers produce finer wool than ewes.
• Young sheep produce finer wool than older sheep.
iii. Individual Variation
• Differences exist within breeds, sex, and age groups.
• Selection and breeding influence wool quality.
2. Environmental Factors
i. Climate
• Temperature, humidity, rainfall, and sunlight affect wool growth and fiber diameter.
• High temperatures & low humidity → Reduced wool growth, increased fiber diameter.
• High rainfall & humidity → Higher risk of fungal infections and felting.
ii. Nutrition
• Energy, protein, minerals, and vitamins are essential for wool growth.
• Poor nutrition leads to reduced wool yield, breakage, and shedding.
iii. Health
• Affects immunity, disease resistance, and parasite control.
• Diseases and parasites can cause wool loss, discoloration, and contamination.
iv. Management
• Shearing: Timing, frequency, and method impact wool yield and quality.
• Grazing: Exposure to different environments affects wool production.
• Feed & Water: Quality and availability directly influence wool growth.
• Handling: Proper care ensures better wool preservation.