MALIBU 12 Months to 14 Years

Malibu is a dress and top pattern designed for woven fabrics. It features a fitted bodice,
gentle sweetheart neckline, and flutter straps. The back of the bodice can be finished with a
top elastic casing, bow or knot. The Malibu pattern includes optional dress inseam pockets.

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 LITTLE LIZARD KING
• MALIBU •

• TA B L E O F CO N TE N TS •
P R E PA R ATI O N
This pattern is interactive!
3 Materials
Throughout the tutorial, you will find
4 Style Options
clickable links to videos and blogs, as well
5 Taking Measurements
as a navigation bar on each page. Clicking
6 Sewing Planner
within the Table of Contents, as well as
7 Size Chart
the bottom bar, will help you easily access
8 Finished Measurements
commonly used pages within the tutorial.
9 Achieving a Custom Fit
11 Fabric Requirements
Happy sewing!
12 Printing Layout
13 Print Guide
For best results, our patterns should be
14 Printing the Pattern
viewed in Adobe Acrobat or Reader.
15 Cutting Instructions
16 Cut Chart in Inches
17 Cut Chart in Centimeters
18 Glossary
19 Sewing with Wovens
21 Preparing to Sew

SEWING TUTORIAL
24 Constructing the Flutter (Optional)
25 Preparing the Straps (All Versions)
28 Preparing the Chest Elastic Casing
29 Preparing the Ties (Bow or Knot)
30 Constructing the Bodice (All Versions)
43 Constructing the Dress Skirt with Pockets (Optional - Dress Version Only)
47 Constructing the Top/Dress Skirt without Pockets
48 Attaching the Skirt to the Bodice (All Versions)
55 Tying a Bow

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 LITTLE LIZARD KING
• MALIBU •

• M ATE R I A L S •

TOOLS: N OTI O N S + M ATE R I A L S :

• Straight Pins or Clips • 3/4’’ (1.9 cm) Non- Roll Elastic
Optional:
• 1/4” (0.6 cm) Double-Sided Hem Tape
• Trims
• Rotary Cutter + Mat

RECOMMENDED FABRIC:
• Iron + Ironing Board
Light to medium weight woven fabric including but not limited to:
• Quilting Cotton
• Chambray
• Apparel Fabrics
• Scissors
• Voile
• Linen
• Etc.
• Ruler

• Fabric Marker or Pencil

• Universal Needle

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 LITTLE LIZARD KING
• MALIBU •

• STYLE OPTIONS •

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 LITTLE LIZARD KING
• MALIBU •

• TA K I N G M E A S U R E M E N TS •
CHEST WA I S T + H I P
To get an accurate chest measurement, Waist measurement is taken at the
measure the subject around the nipple line natural waist, and hip measurement
with their arms down at their side. This is taken around the fullest part of the
measurement should be neither tight nor buttocks with feet together and both
loose. feet flat. This measurement should be
neither tight nor loose.

TRUNK HEIGHT
To measure trunk length, measure the To measure total height, measure from
circumference taken from a point on the floor to the top of the head when
the right shoulder midway between the standing with both feet together and
neck base and shoulder joint, down the good posture. When finished lengths are
back, through the crotch, and up over listed in the finished measurement chart,
the prominence of the right chest back the text will indicate where the finished
to the starting point. This measurement length is measured from. Measure the
should be taken without a diaper. If this child, before cutting fabric, between the
measurement is taken with a diaper on, the places indicated, to ensure that the final
garment will not fit properly. length is appropriate.

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 LITTLE LIZARD KING
• MALIBU •

• SEWING PLANNER •
For
Date HEIGHT

Pattern
Size
Fabric

CHEST
Cutting Chart Measurements WAIST

HIP

TRUNK

Height
Chest
Waist
Hip F I N D F R E E CO L O R I N G PAG E S F O R TH E
PAT T E R N S AT L I T T L E L I Z A R D K I N G . C O M
Trunk

Notes

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 LITTLE LIZARD KING
• MALIBU •

• S I Z E C H A RT •
Choose width based on chest and waist measurement and length based on height
measurement. If in between sizes for width, cut between sizes. If in between sizes for height,
cut between sizes. If more than halfway between sizes for height, size up. Refer to the
Achieving a Custom Fit section of the tutorial for more detailed instructions for blending sizes
for this pattern.

INCHES
12m 18m 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 10 12 14
Height 30 1/2 33 35 38 41 44 46 1/2 50 1/2 52 1/2 55 58 61
Chest 19 20 20 1/2 21 22 23 24 26 27 28 1/2 30 31 1/2
Waist 19 1/2 20 1/2 21 21 1/2 22 22 1/2 23 23 1/2 24 1/2 25 26 28
Hip 19 1/2 20 1/4 21 22 23 24 25 27 1/2 28 1/2 30 32 34
Trunk 29 1/8 31 33 3/4 35 7/8 38 3/8 40 1/4 42 3/8 44 5/8 46 1/4 48 1/8 50 5/8 53 3/8

CENTIMETERS
12m 18m 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 10 12 14

Height 77.5 84 89 96.5 104 112 118 128 133.5 140 147.5 155

Chest 48 51 52 53.5 56 58.5 61 66 68.5 72.5 76 80

Waist 49.5 52 53.5 54.5 56 57 58.5 59.5 62 63.5 66 71

Hip 49.5 51.5 53.5 56 58.5 61 63.5 70 72.5 76 81 86.5

Trunk 74 79 86 91 97.5 102 107.5 113.5 117.5 122 128.5 135.5

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 LITTLE LIZARD KING
• MALIBU •

• FINISHED MEASUREMENTS •
Finished length is measured from the strap insertion points of the bodice to the hem of the
skirt. The hem of the top is intended to fall at the hip while the hem of the dress is intended to
fall above the knee.

INCHES

12m 18m 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 10 12 14

Top 9 1/4 9 5/8 10 1/4 10 7/8 11 5/8 12 3/8 13 14 14 5/8 15 1/2 16 3/8 17 1/8
Dress 14 1/2 15 3/8 16 16 7/8 18 19 3/8 20 5/8 22 5/8 24 25 1/2 27 28 5/8

CENTIMETERS
12m 18m 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 10 12 14

Top 23.5 24.5 26 27.5 29.5 31.5 33 35.5 37 39.5 41.5 43.5
Dress 37 39 40.5 43 45.5 49 52.5 57.5 61 65 68.5 72.5

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 LITTLE LIZARD KING
• MALIBU •

• ACHIEVING A CUSTOM FIT •

If in between sizes for width, cut between sizes. If in between sizes for height, cut between
sizes. If more than halfway between sizes for width or height, size up. If the child is a different
size for width and height, blend both sizes for a custom fit. If there is a difference of more than
2 sizes between measurements, a muslin is recommended so any necessary adjustments can be
made to ensure the proper fit.

For example, if it has been determined that the child needs a 2 chest, 12 month waist and a 4
height, the 4 height is needed on every pattern piece. Length cannot simply be added to the
skirt. When blending a 2 chest with a 4 height, the top of the size 2 bodice is brought up to the
height of the size 4 at the strap placement mark as well as the center point of the sweetheart
neckline. The width of the size 2 is used at the arm curve. The side seam will start at the size 2
width at the top but will be extended down to the width of the 12 month with the length of the
size 4.

For this pattern, refer to the following diagram for blending a size 2 chest, size 12 month waist
and size 4 height.

blend this side by

chest and height only

2 4 2 4
12m

12m
SIDE SEAM

SIDE SEAM

SIDE SEAM

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 LITTLE LIZARD KING
• MALIBU •

Chest Elastic and Casing

Choose the chest elastic and chest elastic casing based on chest size.

Waist Elastic and Casing

Choose the waist elastic and waist elastic casing size based on waist size. If the chest and waist
sizes are more than 2 sizes apart, cut the elastic casing only between the two sizes. For example,
if the child needs a 4 chest and 12 month waist, cut the elastic casing at a size 2 but keep the 12
month elastic.

Strap
Choose the strap based on height size. If the chest and height sizes are more than 2 sizes apart,
cut the strap between the two sizes. For example, if the child needs a 12 month chest and 4
height, cut the strap at a size 2 length.

Flutter
Choose the flutter based on chest size and strap size. Refer to the diagram below for blending a
size 2 chest and size 4 strap length.

Skirt
Choose the skirt width based on waist size and length based on height.

cut this side

based on chest width

cut this side based on strap size

2 4

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 LITTLE LIZARD KING
• MALIBU •

• FABRIC REQUIREMENTS •
Fabric requirements are in yards and centimeters. The metric fabric requirements are converted
from the imperial fabric requirements, converting yards to centimeters. Requirements are based
on a 44” (110 cm) directional fabric, cut selvage to selvage. Bodice requirements are needed
for both the main and the lining. Keep in mind, the straps are cut parallel to the grainline but
require just 4” (10.2 cm) in width.
YA R D S

12m 18m 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 10 12 14
Bodice 1/4 1/4 1/4 1/4 1/4 1/4 1/4 1/4 1/4 1/3 1/3 1/3
Flutters 1/4 1/4 1/4 1/4 1/4 1/4 1/4 1/4 1/4 1/4 1/4 1/4
Straps 1/4 1/4 1/4 1/4 1/3 1/3 1/3 1/3 1/3 1/3 3/8 3/8
Elastic Casings 1/8 1/8 1/8 1/8 1/8 1/8 1/8 1/8 1/8 1/8 1/8 1/8
Ties 1/4 1/4 1/4 1/4 1/4 1/4 1/4 1/4 1/4 1/3 1/3 1/3
Top Skirt 1/3 1/3 1/3 1/2 1/2 1/2 1/2 1/2 5/8 5/8 5/8 5/8
Dress Skirt 5/8 5/8 2/3 3/4 3/4 7/8 7/8 1 1 1 1/4 1 1/4 1 1/4
Pockets 1/4 1/4 1/4 1/4 1/4 1/4 1/4 1/4 1/4 1/4 1/4 1/4

CENTIMETERS

12m 18m 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 10 12 14
Front Bodice 23 23 23 23 23 23 23 23 23 30.5 30.5 30.5
Flutters 23 23 23 23 23 23 23 23 23 23 23 23
Straps 23 23 23 23 30.5 30.5 30.5 30.5 30.5 30.5 34.5 34.5
Elastic Casings 11.5 11.5 11.5 11.5 11.5 11.5 11.5 11.5 11.5 11.5 11.5 11.5
Ties 23 23 23 23 23 23 23 23 23 30.5 30.5 30.5
Top Skirt 30.5 30.5 30.5 46 46 46 46 46 57 57 57 57
Dress Skirt 57 57 61 68.5 68.5 80 80 91.5 91.5 114 114 114
Pockets 23 23 23 23 23 23 23 23 23 23 23 23

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 LITTLE LIZARD KING
• MALIBU •

• P R I N TI N G L AYO U T •

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 LITTLE LIZARD KING
• MALIBU •

• PRINT GUIDE •
PAT T E R N P I E C E S PAG E S

Bodice
All sizes 1-3

Flutters
All sizes 14, 18

Straps
12 months through 4 years 3
5 years through 14 years 3, 6

Chest Elastic Casing

All sizes 4-5

Waist Elastic Casing

12 months through 4 years 3
5 years through 14 years 3, 6

Ties
All sizes 4-6

Top Skirt
Sizes 12 months through 3 years 4-5, 7-8
Sizes 4 through 14 years 4-9

Dress Skirt
Sizes 12 months through 2 years 7-9, 11-13
Sizes 3 through 10 years 7-9, 11-13, 15-17
Sizes 12 through 14 years 7-18

Pocket
All sizes 10

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 LITTLE LIZARD KING
• MALIBU •

• P R I N TI N G TH E PAT TE R N •

N E E D H E L P P R I N TI N G TH E PAT TE R N ?
Click here for a video tutorial.

To begin, open the pdf pattern file in Adobe

Reader, making sure to use an updated version
of Adobe. Once the file is open, it is helpful to
print only the sizes needed. To do so, click the
icon with layered squares.

Once the layers are visible, the ‘eye’ icon shows

which layers are visible. The bottom layer titled DO
NOT UNCHECK must be left on as it contains labels,
tiling, notches, etc. To turn off unwanted layers,
click the ‘eye’ icon, leaving the icon on for only
the sizes needed. For example, if a size 2 width is
needed with a size 4 length, uncheck all “eye” icon
boxes except size 2, size 4 and the bottom layer
(labeled DO NOT UNCHECK).

To print the pattern, press the printer icon or go to

“File > Print” and select the following options:
• Pages (enter #’s)
• Actual Size
• Auto (Page Orientation)
• Always ensure the box called “Choose
Paper Source by PDF Page Size” is unchecked.

After printing, each page should have a black rectangle border around the entire perimeter.
Always measure the 1” (4 cm) test square to ensure proper sizing.

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 LITTLE LIZARD KING
• MALIBU •

• CUTTING INSTRUCTIONS •
(P) = from pattern piece (C) = from cut chart ON THE FOLD
Bodice with Knot or Bow Back
• Cut 2 front bodice pieces on the fold (1 main, 1 lining) (P)
• Cut 4 back bodice pieces as two mirror image sets
(1 set main, 1 set lining) (P)

FOLD
• Cut 1 chest/waist elastic casing piece (1 main) (P or C)
• Cut 1 piece of elastic (C)
Choose between knot or bow length.
• Cut 2 ties (2 main) (P)

Bodice with Chest Elastic

• Cut 2 front bodice pieces on the fold (1 main, 1 lining) (P) MIRROR-IMAGE SET
• Cut 4 back bodice pieces as two mirror image sets
(1 set main, 1 set lining) (P)
• Cut 1 waist elastic casing (1 main) (P or C)
• Cut 1 waist elastic piece (C)
FOLD
• Cut 1 chest elastic casing (1 main) (P or C)
• Cut 1 chest elastic piece (C)

Straps
• Cut 2 straps (2 main) (P or C)
• Cut 2 flutter pieces on the fold as a mirror image set
(1 set main) (P) (optional)
With the Grain
Top/Dress Skirt
Choose between top or dress length.
Using the appropriate cut line:
• Cut 2 skirt pieces (2 main) (P or C)
The Bias Selvage
Pocket (Optional)
• Cut 4 pocket pieces as 2 mirror image sets (2 sets main) (P)

Against the Grain

Cut Edge

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 LITTLE LIZARD KING
• MALIBU •

• C U T C H A RT •
INCHES

Length x Width 12m 18m 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 10 12 14

7 1/8 7 5/8 8 1/8 8 5/8 9 1/8 9 5/8 10 1/8 10 5/8 11 1/8 11 5/8 12 1/8 12 5/8
Straps
x x x x x x x x x x x x
Cut 2
2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2
Chest/Waist 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3
Elastic Casing x x x x x x x x x x x x
Cut 1 or 2 8 5/8 9 9 1/4 9 1/2 9 3/4 10 1/4 10 3/4 11 1/2 12 12 1/2 13 1/8 13 3/4
Waist Elastic
3/4” (2 cm) 3 5/8 3 7/8 4 4 1/8 4 1/4 4 1/2 4 3/4 5 1/8 5 3/8 5 5/8 5 7/8 6 1/8
Cut 1
Chest Elastic
3/4” (2 cm) 4 4 1/4 4 3/8 4 1/2 4 5/8 4 7/8 5 1/8 5 1/2 5 3/4 6 6 1/4 6 1/2
Cut 1
5 1/4 5 1/2 6 6 1/2 7 7 1/2 8 8 1/2 9 9 1/2 10 10 1/2
Top Skirt
x x x x x x x x x x x x
Cut 2
24 3/4 25 7/8 26 3/8 27 28 29 1/8 30 1/4 32 1/2 33 1/2 35 1/4 36 7/8 38 1/2
10 1/2 11 3/8 11 3/4 12 1/2 13 3/8 14 1/2 15 5/8 17 1/8 18 1/4 19 1/2 20 3/4 22
Dress Skirt
x x x x x x x x x x x x
Cut 2
28 1/8 29 3/8 30 30 5/8 31 7/8 33 1/8 34 3/8 36 7/8 38 1/8 40 41 7/8 43 3/4

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 LITTLE LIZARD KING
• MALIBU •

• C U T C H A RT •
CENTIMETERS

Length x Width 12m 18m 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 10 12 14

18 19.5 20.5 22 23 24.5 25.5 27 28.5 29.5 31 32
Straps
x x x x x x x x x x x x
Cut 2
5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5
Chest/Waist 7.5 7.5 7.5 7.5 7.5 7.5 7.5 7.5 7.5 7.5 7.5 7.5
Elastic Casing x x x x x x x x x x x x
Cut 1 or 2 22 23 23.5 24 25 26 27.5 29 30.5 32 33.5 35
Waist Elastic
3/4” (2 cm) 9 10 10 10.5 11 11.5 12 13 13.5 14.5 15 15.5
Cut 1
Chest Elastic
3/4” (2 cm) 10 11 11 11.5 11.5 12.5 13 14 14.5 15 16 16.5
Cut 1
13.5 14 15 16.5 18 19 20.5 21.5 23 24 25.5 26.5
Top Skirt
x x x x x x x x x x x x
Cut 2
63 65.5 67 68.5 71 74 77 82.5 85 89.5 93.5 98
26.5 29 30 32 34 37 39.5 43.5 46.5 49.5 52.5 56
Dress Skirt
x x x x x x x x x x x x
Cut 2
71.5 74.5 76 78 81 84 87.5 93.5 97 101.5 106.5 111

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 LITTLE LIZARD KING
• MALIBU •

• GLOSSARY OF SEWING TERMS •

R AW E D G E : An unfinished edge of a fabric. S TAY S T I T C H : A line of sewing used to help
keep the shape of a piece of fabric. This is usually done on
the opening of circle skirts, a rounded shape, or garment
cut on the bias.

S E L VA G E : The manufactured, finished edge of a

BACKSTITCH: A method used to secure
fabric.
stitches. When beginning a line of stitching, stitch forward
about three stitches, stitch back to the starting stitch
and then continue stitching as directed. At the end of
the stitching, stitch back about three stitches and then
forward again to the original end point.

GRAINLINE: The grainline of a fabric runs

parallel to the selvage. The pattern pieces will include a G A T H E R I N G S T I T C H : This stitching
grainline arrow to indicate which way the pattern pieces is done with the sewing machine set on the longest stitch
should be cut on the fabric. length. Do not backstitch at the beginning or end of a
gathering stitch. Leave a thread tail at the beginning and
end to gather the fabric.

BASTE: A basting stitch is used to temporarily hold

two pieces of fabric together before they are sewn. Sew
using a long, straight stitch.

S E A M A L L O WA N C E : This is the T O P S T I T C H : A visible line of stitching sewn

distance between the edge of the fabric and the stitch line from the right side of the fabric, using a 1/8” (0.3
when sewing. cm) seam allowance unless, otherwise stated. This is
usually done on the finished garment and looks very
nice if the stitch is increased one size in length.

E D G E S T I T C H : A visible line of stitching

sewn close to the edge, typically less than 1/8” (0.3 cm).
C L I P : Fabric is clipped to help a garment lay nicely
when turned right side out. Clip the seam allowance of a
curve, being careful not to clip through the stitching.
U N D E R S T I T C H : A stitch used to keep a
seam or facing from peaking out of a garment. The seam
allowance is pressed toward the wrong/lining side of the
garment and is sewn 1/8” (0.3 cm) inch from the seam.

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 LITTLE LIZARD KING
• MALIBU •

• SEWING WITH WOVENS •

NEEDLE TYPE:
Use a universal needle when working with woven fabrics. Select the size of the needle based on
the weight of the fabric.

Fabric Weight Fabrics Needle Size

Lightweight Wovens chiffon, organza, tulle, rayon 70/10

Medium Weight Wovens quilting cotton, linen, flannel, corduroy, chambray 80/12 or 90/14

Heavy Weight Wovens denim, fur, leather 100/16 or 120/18

FINISHING A SEAM:
When working with woven fabrics, there are several methods that can be used to finish a seam.
The method chosen should be based on personal preference and the equipment available.
Little Lizard King woven patterns traditionally include a 1/2” (1.3 cm) seam allowance. For user
convenience, the seam allowance is mentioned throughout the tutorial at each step. When
directed to finish the seam, the following chart shows the options available for doing so.

Method Machine/Supplies Direction

Sew to attach as directed in the pattern. Trim the seam
Sewing Machine and allowance with the pinking shears. Please note, some
Pinking Shears
Pinking Shears fabrics will still fray even after trimming with pinking
shears.
Sew to attach as directed in the pattern. To reduce
bulk, trim the seam allowance with a pair of regular
Zig Zag Stitch Sewing Machine
scissors. Sew the edge of the seam allowance with a
narrow zig zag stitch.
Sew to attach as directed in the pattern, using a sewing
machine. Finish the seam with a serger, trimming
Sewing Machine
off the excess seam allowance. For seams with less
4 Thread Overlock and Serger
tension, such as the side seam of a skirt, the sewing
machine can be omitted, and the seam can be sewn
initially with the serger.

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 LITTLE LIZARD KING
• MALIBU •

PINKING ZIG ZAG 4 THREAD

SHEARS STITCH OVERLOCK

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 LITTLE LIZARD KING
• MALIBU •

• PREPARING TO SEW •
This pattern includes notches which are used to help align the fabric pieces while sewing. A
notch is a small triangle on the paper pattern piece. There are several ways notches can be
transferred from the paper pattern piece to the fabric pieces. They can be clipped with scissors/
rotary cutter or a pattern notcher or they can be transferred with a fabric pen. If a fabric pen is
used, either draw a straight line or mimic the triangle on the wrong side of the fabric. Make sure
the notches extend no more than 1/4” (0.6 cm) into the seam allowance. Transfer all pattern
piece notches to the fabric pieces.

clipped with scissors clipped with a notcher

marked with a fabric pen

Please note that for this example, a classic, woven, button back bodice has been used, but the
same concept applies to all knit and woven patterns.

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The armscye and sleeves are a common place to find notches and therefore will be used in this
illustration. The front armscye will be marked with one notch, while the back armscye will be
marked with a double notch. There will also be notches on the sleeves that correspond with
the notches on the armscye, as well as a notch at the shoulder point on the sleeve that will be
matched to the bodice shoulder seam when sewn.

shoulder seam
notch
front armscye: back armscye:
single notch double notch

front armscye: back armscye:

single notch double notch

Look over the pattern pieces in this pattern to identify the location of all of the notches. Transfer
the notches from the paper pattern piece to the fabric pieces. Follow the directions in the
tutorial to align the pieces and complete the garment.

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 LITTLE LIZARD KING
• MALIBU •

SEWING
TUTORIAL

Seam allowance is 1/2” (1.3 cm) unless otherwise stated.

Need help? Find additional support in our

helpful and welcoming Facebook community.

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 LITTLE LIZARD KING
• MALIBU •

CONSTRUCTING THE
FLUTTER
( O pt i o n al)

If not constructing the flutter, skip to

Preparing the Straps

Locate the flutter pieces. If desired, finish the straight edge with a serger. Fold the straight edge
of the flutter 1/4” (0.6 cm), wrong sides together. Press.

Fold it another 1/4” (0.6 cm). Press. Edgestitch to secure the hem. Alternatively, finish the
straight edge of the flutter with a rolled hem. Cut off 1/2” (1.3 cm) of the flutter while doing so
to account for the hem.

Sew a gathering stitch 1/4” (0.6 cm) away from the curved edge. Repeat all steps with the
remaining flutter.

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PREPARING THE STRAPS

( A l l Ve r s i ons)

Locate the simple straps. Fold the strap in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Press to create
a memory crease. Unfold.

Fold the long, raw edges in to meet the center crease, wrong sides together. Press.

Press the strap in half, aligning the long, folded edges.

If adding the optional flutter, skip to the next page.

If sewing the simple straps, edgestitch to secure the strap closed. Repeat the previous steps for
the remaining strap.

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If constructing the strap without flutters, skip to Preparing the Chest Elastic Casing or
Preparing the Ties (Bow or Knot)

Unfold the strap and place it right side up. Using a disappearing fabric marker, draw a 1/2”
(1.3 cm) line 1/2” (1.3 cm) away from the short, raw end of the strap on each side.

1/2” (1.3 cm) 1/2” (1.3 cm)

Gather the flutter the same size as the strap. Place the flutter on the strap with the wrong side
of the flutter touching the right side of the strap. Ensure the gathers are evenly distributed and
the hemmed edge of the flutter does not extend past the 1/2” (1.3 cm) marking at each end of
the strap. Pin/clip to hold in place. Alternatively, double-sided hem tape can be used to secure
the flutter to the strap. Using a 1/2” (1.3 cm) seam allowance, sew the flutter to the strap to
secure.

N E E D H E L P GATH E R I N G ?
Click here for a video tutorial.

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Trim 1/8” (0.3 cm) from the edge of the strap/flutter and any excess flutter extending past the
ends.

Refold the memory creases. Pin/clip to hold in place. Alternatively, double-sided hem tape can
be used to secure the strap. The flutter should become visible 1/2’’ (1.3 cm) in from each edge
of the strap. If the flutter needs to be adjusted, do so now.

1/2” (1.3 cm) 1/2” (1.3 cm)

Edgestitch to secure the strap. Repeat the previous steps for the remaining strap and flutter.

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PREPARING THE CHEST

ELASTIC CASING

If constructing the bow or knot tie option, skip to

Preparing the Ties

Locate the chest elastic casing piece and elastic. Exercise the elastic a few times and confirm the
length matches the measurement in the cut chart. Fold the casing in half lengthwise, right sides
together. Using a 1/2” (1.3 cm) seam allowance, sew along the raw edge of the long side.

Trim the seam allowance and turn the chest casing right side out. Center the seam and press.

Run the elastic through the casing. Align the ends of the elastic with the ends of the casing. Sew
to secure at each end with a 3/8 (1 cm) seam allowance.

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PREPARING THE TIES

( Bow o r Knot)

If constructing the chest elastic casing option, skip to

Constructing the Bodice (All Versions)

Locate the ties. Place the tie right side up. Fold the tie in half, right sides together.

Using a 1/2’’ (1.3 cm) seam allowance, sew the long, raw edge and short, pointed edge. Clip the
corners.

Turn the tie right side out. Press. If desired, topstitch around the two long sides and short,
pointed edge using a 1/8’’ (0.3 cm) seam allowance. Repeat the previous steps for the remaining
tie.

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CONSTRUCTING THE
BODICE
( A l l Ve r s ions)

Locate the front and back bodice pieces. With the lining pieces wrong side up and the main
pieces right side up, make sure all of the markings are transferred from the pattern pieces to the
fabric pieces with a fabric marker. Mark the center back (CB) and side seams (SS) on the back
pieces. It is helpful to draw the seam allowance on the front bodice lining. This will help ensure
an even seam along the curves and down into the point of the sweetheart neckline. It may not
be necessary to draw the entire seam allowance but it is recommended to at least draw in the
curves leading into the center “V”.

Note: Depending on the size being constructed, the sides of the bodice will either angle in or out
at the waist. The example below shows a bodice blended with a smaller waist size than chest size
so the sides angle in. A second bodice will be shown in future steps that has been blended with a
smaller chest size than waist size so the sides will angle out.
main lining

ss cb cb ss ss cb cb ss

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Locate the waist elastic casing. Fold the casing in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Press to
create a memory crease.

Place the left side, back bodice main right side up. Unfold the casing and place it on the bodice
piece, right sides together. If using a directional print, make sure the print is facing the right way.
Align the bottom, raw edge of the of the casing piece to the bottom, raw edge of the bodice.
Align the short edge of the casing with the vertical edge of the bodice piece. The memory
crease will align with the previously made mark on the bodice piece.

ss cb

Using a 1/2” (1.3 cm) seam allowance, sew the casing to the bodice starting at the memory
crease, sewing down to the bottom of the bodice. The top half of the casing and bodice will
remain unsewn. Refold the memory crease.

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Locate the straps and the ties or chest elastic piece. With right sides together, align one strap
with the top edge of the bodice piece and the vertical edge of the previously made corner mark.
If using the flutter strap, make sure the flutter is pointed toward the side labeled “SS”. Align
one tie or the top elastic piece with the vertical edge of the bodice and the horizontal edge of
the previously made corner mark. The pointed edge of the tie should be on bottom. Pin/clip to
hold in place. Baste both the strap and tie/chest elastic piece in place with a 3/8” (1 cm) seam
allowance.
simple strap and top elastic piece

casing seam line

will be face up

ss cb

flutter strap and knot tie

point at
the bottom ss
ss cb

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Locate the corresponding back bodice lining piece. With right sides together, place the lining on
top of the main. Align the top and center edges. Pin/clip to hold in place. Using a 1/2” (1.3 cm)
seam allowance and starting at the top, sew across the top until the corner mark is reached.
Place the needle in the down position, pivot the fabric and continue sewing down the side,
stopping when the bottom mark is reached. Shift the strap and tie/top elastic as needed to
ensure they do not get caught in the seams. Do not sew over the casing.

Fold the lining up to expose the bottom casing.

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Fold the unsewn portion of the casing up to meet the bodice lining. Pin/clip the casing to
the lining. Make sure all of the other layers are out of the way. Using a 1/2” (1.3 cm) seam
allowance, sew to attach the casing to the lining starting at the raw edge and ending at the
memory crease.

sew the casing and

the lining only

The bodice piece will now form an upside down “T”. The main and lining will be sewn down to
the top of the casing. The lining will be attached to one side of the casing and the main will be
attached to the other side of the casing.

center back seam

main and
lining and
casing seam
casing seam

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Clip the corner and turn the back bodice piece right side out. Press.

Locate the right side back bodice piece main and place it right side up. Place the other bodice
piece right side down and align the bottom casing piece with the back bodice piece.

cb ss

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Unfold the bottom casing piece. Align the bottom, raw edge of the of the casing piece to the
bottom, raw edge of the bodice. Align the short edge of the casing with the vertical edge of the
bodice piece. The memory crease will align with the previously made mark on the bodice piece.
Using a 1/2” (1.3 cm) seam allowance, sew the casing to the bodice starting at the memory
crease and sewing down to the bottom of the bodice. The top half of the casing and bodice will
remain unsewn. Refold the memory crease.

With right sides together, align the second strap with the top edge of the bodice piece and the
vertical edge of the previously made mark. If using the flutter strap, make sure the flutter is
pointed toward the side labeled “SS”. Align the remaining tie or the top elastic piece with the
vertical edge of the bodice and the horizontal edge of the previously made mark. Pin/clip to
hold in place. Baste both the strap and tie/top elastic piece in place with a 3/8” (1 cm) seam
allowance.

cb ss

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Locate the corresponding back bodice lining piece. With right sides together, place the lining on
top of the main. Align the top and center edges. Pin/clip to hold in place. Using a 1/2” (1.3 cm)
seam allowance and starting at the bottom mark, sew until the corner mark is reached. Place
the needle in the down position, pivot the fabric and continue sewing, stopping when the side
reached. Shift the strap and tie/chest elastic as needed to ensure they do not get caught in the
seams. Do not sew over the casing.

Fold the lining up to expose the bottom casing.

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Fold the unsewn portion of the casing up to meet the bodice lining. Pin/clip the casing to
the lining. Make sure all of the other layers are out of the way. Using a 1/2” (1.3 cm) seam
allowance, sew to attach starting at the raw edge and ending at the memory crease.

Clip the corner and turn the back bodice right sides out. Press.

simple strap and top elastic piece flutter strap and knot tie

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Locate the front bodice main and place it right side up. Place the back bodice on top with the
right side facing down. Center the straps on the placement marks on the front bodice main.
Using a 3/8” (1 cm) seam allowance, baste the straps in place.
simple strap and top elastic piece flutter strap and knot tie

Locate the front bodice lining. With right sides together, align the top edges of the front bodice
main and lining. Using a short stitch length and a 1/2” (1.3 cm) seam allowance, sew to secure.

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Clip into the center point as close to the stitching as possible. Trim the seam allowance and clip
the curves. Use pinking shears if possible.

Fold the lining up. Press the lining and the seam allowance away from the main along the entire
seam line. This will mimic the outcome of understitching, forcing the lining to the underside.

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Turn right side out and press.

Separate the front bodice main and lining. Fold the back bodice down to meet the front main,
right sides together.

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Separate the back bodice main and lining. Align the front and back main and the front and back
lining. Pin/clip to hold in place. Using a 1/2” (1.3 cm seam allowance), sew to attach.

Press the seam allowances open and turn right side out. Press.

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CONSTRUCTING THE DRESS

S K I RT W ITH P O C K ETS
( O pt i o n al - Dress Version Only )

If not constructing the skirt with pockets, skip to

Constructing the Top/Dress Skirt without Pockets

Finish the sides of all the skirt pieces with a zig zag stitch or serger.

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Finish all edges of each pocket piece with a zig zag stitch or serger.

Measure down 3” (7.6 cm) from the top edge on each side of both skirt pieces. Place a mark
with a fabric marker or a pin/clip. This will be the placement position of the pocket.

3” (7.6 cm)

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Pin/clip the pocket piece to the skirt, right sides together. Align the straight edge of the pocket
to the straight edge of the skirt. Sew the pocket in place using a 3/8” (1 cm) seam allowance.

Press the seam toward the pocket. Do not skip this step. Topstitch pocket using a 1/8’’ (0.3 cm)
seam allowance. Repeat this step with the three remaining pockets.

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Lay the back skirt piece right side up. Place the front skirt on top, right sides together, aligning
the pockets. Pin/clip to secure. Starting at the top of the skirt, sew down the side using a
1/2’’ (1.3 cm) seam allowance. Pivot 1/2’’ (1.3 cm) past the start of the top of the pocket, and
continue to sew around the pocket piece. Once the skirt side is reached at the bottom of the
pocket, pivot once more and continue to sew down the side of the skirt. Repeat on the other
side.
finished pocket from the right side

Fold the bottom, raw edge of the skirt 1/4” (0.6 cm) wrong sides together. Press. Fold it another
1/4” (0.6 cm). Press. Edgestitch to secure the hem.

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CONSTRUCTING THE TOP/

D R E S S S K I RT W ITH O U T
POCKETS
If constructing the skirt with pockets, skip to
Attaching the Skirt to the Bodice

Place the two skirt pieces right sides together. Pin/clip to secure. Sew at the short ends using a
1/2” (1.3 cm) seam allowance. Finish the seams.

Fold the bottom, raw edge of the skirt 1/4” (0.6 cm) wrong sides together. Press. Fold it another
1/4” (0.6 cm). Press. Edgestitch to secure the hem.

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AT TAC H I N G TH E S K I RT TO
THE BODICE
( A l l Ve r s ions)

With wrong sides out, fold the back skirt in half and align the side seams. Use the measurement
in the chart below that corresponds to the waist elastic casing size being used. Measure over
from the center fold and place a mark. Repeat on the other side.

Distance from
12m 18m 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 10 12 14
the Center Fold
Inches 6 5/8 7 7 1/4 7 1/2 7 3/4 8 8 1/2 9 1/8 9 5/8 10 10 5/8 11 1/8
Centimeters 17 18 18.5 19 19.5 20.5 21.5 23 24.5 25.5 27 28.5

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Using a 1/4” (0.6 cm) seam allowance, sew a gathering stitch between the two marks on the
back of the skirt. Gather to half of the original size.

N E E D H E L P GATH E R I N G ?
Click here for a video tutorial.

Using a 1/4” (0.6 cm) seam allowance, sew a gathering stitch around the remaining
circumference of the skirt. Do not gather at this time.

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With the skirt wrong side out and the wrong side of the back skirt facing up, slide the bodice
inside the skirt. With right sides together, align the marks on the skirt with the bodice/casing
seams. Distribute the gathers evenly along the casing. Using a 1/2” (1.3 cm) seam allowance,
sew the skirt to the casing only. Do not sew past the casing on either side.

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Locate the elastic. Exercise the elastic a few times and confirm the length matches the
measurement in the cut chart. Separate the bodice main from the lining on one side. Using a
bodkin or a safety pin, begin running the elastic through the casing.

Designer Tip: Attach safety pins to each end of the elastic in case the elastic is pulled too far in
one direction.

Align the end of the elastic with the raw edge of the casing. Pin to hold in place. Sew directly on
top of the previously sewn bodice/casing seam to secure the elastic. Make sure not to get any
of the bodice stuck in the seam. Continue running the elastic through the casing and repeat on
the other side.

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Gather the remaining circumference of the skirt to fit the bodice. Using a 1/2” (1.3 cm) seam
allowance, sew to attach. Start at one bodice/casing seam and sew around the front of the
bodice and around to the back, ending at the other bodice/casing seam.

Designer Tip: Try the garment on the child to make sure the bodice is fitting nicely and no
adjustments need to be made to the elastic prior to finishing the seam.

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Finish the seam. When the casing is approached, pull the fabric and stretch the elastic while
finishing the seam.

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Turn right side out and press. Topstitch the waist seam if desired.

Skip to the next page for tips on tying the perfect bow.

YOU ARE FINISHED!

We would LOVE to see photos of your finished projects.

If you have questions, please send them to littlelizardking@[Link] or
join the Little Lizard King Sewing Pattern group on Facebook for additional support.
Thank you for using a Little Lizard King pattern.

Copyright © Little Lizard King, 2022.

(Please do not copy or distribute without our consent)

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TYING A BOW
( A l l Ve r s i ons)

Follow these steps for a beautiful bow.

Step 1. Step 2. Step 3.

Step 4. Step 5. Step 6.

Step 7. Step 8. Step 9.

N E E D H E L P T Y I N G A P E R F E C T S A S H / B OW ?
Click here for a video tutorial.

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