PRACTICAL LAB/ EXAM PROTOCOL

Appearance:
Hair- pulled back
Uniform - black socks, navy scrubs
Accessories - minimal/ nothing dangling
Nail - must be cut down and well groomed

Infection Control:
●​ Disinfecting station, cart, steamer, mag lamp, bed
●​ How you set up cart: order of products, etc
●​ How you set up your bed - exam can use 2 sheets if you want to
●​ Pre-heat steamer
●​ Hot towels

Proctor Instructions:
●​ Help client onto bed, offer hand / stoll
●​ How neat does wrap look after client is in bed
●​ Wrap client’s hair properly with no hair exposed (put on gloves after completing these
steps)
●​ Make sure to have extra disposable spatulas
○​ Do not double dip

Make Sure to Know Order of Facial:

Disinfection /prep set up for client
Makeup Removal
Cleansing Massage
Toner
Skin Analysis
Wipe mag lamp with alcohol wipe
Cover client eye with damp esthi wipe
Turn light on away from client and then warn client of bright light
Follow 10 Step Protocol
1.​ Skin Type (look at T zone first)
2.​ Choose 3 Conditions i.e. comedones, congestion, papules, pusticle) for LABS
3.​ Elasticity
4.​ Dehydration - determine gently lifting the chin/jawline
a.​ If active client who drinks a lot of water recommend external hydration using hyaluronic
acid
5.​ Thickness of Dermis
6.​ Muscle Tone
7.​ Texture
 8.​ Sensitivity (3 second thumb pressure on forehead)
9.​ Fitzpatrick Scale
10.​ Glogau Scale is a classification of aging / damage due to sun exposure
-if clients can make different facial expressions with(out) lingering wrinkles
a.​ Lower numbers - without wrinkles
b.​ Higher numbers - more present wrinkles

$270 for consultation for 90 minutes including, research and 3 day follow up (NEVER do consultation for free) skin
moisture test, skin test on body, using mag and woods lamp, anlyze skin care products, hair care products and
provide healthy eating habits like Drink water & eat foods high in essential fatty aids

Ms Lakeisha has own product line works with cosmetic chemist who formulates products

NEVER make claims on products; it can help or assist

Allied Insurance

Consultation Form
​ Ask questions you know answers to/ relevance
​
​

Exfoliating
​ Make sure steamer is put on before placed to client
​ Know why we exfoliate
​ Know difference in exfoliators
​ Removal
​ Make sure to push steamer away before get hot towel
​ Make sure to test hot towel on wrist before placed on client
​ Placement of towel afterwards
Hot Towel Removal
Can tone after exfoliating
Extractions
Deincrustation fluid to soften up sebum inside follicles
Cover eyes with esthi wipe
Apply desincrustation fluid on cotton round/ esthi wipe and place onto
problematic areas i.e. most common on T zone with steam for 5-7 mins
DO NOT steam while extracting
​ Use mag lamp to extract no more than 15 minutes
​ ​ Cover fingers with esthi wipe

High Frequency 2-3 mins (no more than 5)

*no metal face jewelry to reduce irritation; avoid jaw area if they have metal teeth implants
Use on dry skin with gauze
Clean glass probe with alcohol wipe before use
Argon = purple/blue light used for acne to kill bacteria causing ance, flash tighten pore and speed up the healing
process, reduce redness, inflammation and re close pores
Neon = red/ orange light used for anti aging encourages collagen production and boosts elasticity, production
penetration

Once glass probe is on face do not pick it up

Use 2 hands to reduce shocking client

Direct High Frequency = directly touching skin with probes

Indirect High Frequency = client holds probe on high frequency while esthi massages targeted area

More pressure and less air between esthi fingers client will not feel as much electrical pulse
Use lighter contact & more air between fingers if you want to focus on wrinkles
Avoid clients with pacemakers + metal implants
To clean: use alcohol wipes or if any bodily fluids use disinfectant wipes

(advanced treatment with machines)

(Serum/ massage agent with nourishing face massage)

Eye Treatment
Apply Collagen eye pads before mixing rubber mask
DO NOT apply underneath paraffin face mask to avoid overheating active ingredients and causing skin irritation

Mask, Mummy Mask, Rubber Mask or Paraffin Face Mask

​ Rubber mask - mix rubber powder mask with water
​ Only use plastic not metal bowl
​ Can cover eyes before applying mask & cover around eye treatment pads; can use gauze
Apply first over eye and downward
DO NOT cover nostrils
*ask if comfortable if cover eyes and mouth
​ DO NOT go past chin (unless paid for neck treatment)
When mask is firm - remove

Paraffin Face Mask (additional charge)

Complete Nourishing facial massage with oil first

Paraffin Wax Mask on the face is beneficial to dry, dehydrated, mature, normal skin types + skin
seeking benefits of moisture

Contraindications = skin diseases, open lesions or wounds, dermatitis i.e. eczema, psoaresis,
erythema, if do a lot extractions i.e. pustles, papules -omit mask

Best time to get it during exfoliation to give time to cool off

 Test by placing on back of hand - at angle if you can move it around - too hot, if it is able
to be molded - ready

Cover client’s eyes w/ esthi wipes

Apply gauze
Apply wax similar to jelly with nostrils exposed
Move fast because sets quickly

Never use serums because active ingredients can irritate skin

Remove from chin upward or from headband downward

Finish with moisurizer + SPF if needed

(Nourishing arm/hands massage)

Finish with moisturizer / SPF
Lip Balm
Disinfection after client treatment

Pay attention to moves

​ Use mother hand
​ Lifting
​ Quality of touch
Flow
How much product used - make sure to take enough product for ONE facial
​ Make sure you remove all product
Back Treatment Protocol 50 - 60 mins
Make sure know contraindications
If the client reserves both complete back treatment first

Cleanse (2-3 minutes)

If oily skin- can double cleanse (one time w/ hands + another w/ machine)
If you use rotary brush:
​ Make sure to have enough product for slip
​ ​ To clean: use soap + water
To Remove Cleanser w/ Esthi Wipes
​ Use upward + outward motions
Tone
​ Wipe w/ esthi wipe upward + outward
Skin Analysis
​ Use mag lamp
**Follicle size is same all over the back
​ Conditions
​ Hydration
Texture
​ Sensitivity
​
​ Prepare steamer
Exfoliation w/ Steam (3-5 minutes)
​ Use sugar scrub for body exfoliation
​ ​ Can use chemical exfoliations based on client’s needs
​ Do not exfoliate arms, but you can use massage protocol to exfoliate
​ Always make sure back has SLIP
​ Can use knuckles to knead, petrissage, tapotement, friction
​ ​ Customize it to your liking
​ Use quick movements + motions
Removal w/ hot towel
Long way
Make sure to remove all product ​
Extractions
High Frequency
Nourishing Massage (omit if the focus is on extractions)
Mask
​ Can use chemical /acidic mask based on client’s needs
​ Apply a thin layer in a rectangular shape
​ Let sit + dry
​ Remove excess mask with a wooden spatula
Then follow up with removing w/ esthi wipe after the massage, hand wax

Paraffin Wax on Hands (additional charge)

​ Use vinyl gloves
​ Size up for client gloves
​ Use a ladle to scoop wax into a plastic cup
​ Pour hot wax into glove up until each knuckle
​ Let cool a bit before applying to client’s hands
Can apply oil to hands prior to adding paraffin wax if client’s hands need extra
moisturizing
​ Remove with a little force downward

Moisturize Back + use SPF if needed

Galvanic Current
(after exfoliation)

Desincrustation before with steam for 3-5 mins

Negative pole = desincrustation
Client will hold positive pole; dampen esti wipe and wrap it around the positive probe to
reduce shocking place underneath client’s bareskin shoulder or they can hold it

Move negative probe over dampened esti wipe with desincrustation

Positive pole = product penetration use the roller attachment

Use this OR nourish massage
Dampen esti wipe and wrap it around the negative probe
Apply serum then start at forehead with positive roller probe

Vacuum / Suction
After extractions, tone skin, dry skin use the vacuum then with finish nourishing massage
Use on clean, dry skin
Use this to suction the skin and lift the skin; if skin needs to fill in fine lines + wrinkles
​ Can do lymphatic drainage on face with this machine also
Tighten skin/ area and vacuum while it is flush against the skin and go from inside to the outside
of face and upward

Refreshing Sprayer
Before you end service before you apply lotion, creams and SPF
​ After extractions, etc.
Cover client’s eyes before spraying

LED

Cover client’s eye with esti wipes/ goggles

10-20 minutes
Use INSTEAD of a clay mask; use a clear or photoserum
​ Can use a clear mask or serum i.e. IMAGE Ormedic Gel Mask

RED - longest wavelength, very bright, stimulating

​ Collagen, elasticity, anti-aging
GREEN - soothing, calming, reduce redness
​ Rosacea, sunburn
YELLOW - detoxifying
BLUE - short quick waves, kills bacteria
​ Acne clients
​

Chemical Peels

Controlled, intectional burning skin

Contraindications
Asprin allergy
Allergies
Pregnancy

TYPES OF PEELS
1.​ Layered Chemical Peel
○​ Do not overlap a lot
2.​ Timed Chemical Peel
○​ Can overlap, but follow manufacturer instructions
3.​ Self-neutralizing
○​ Wait allotted time and then apply aftercare and SPF

4 CATEGORIES of PEELS
●​ VERY SUPERFICIAL
●​ SUPERFICIAL
○​ Glycolic, saliclyic
●​ MEDIUM DEEP
○​ Jessner Peel
●​ DEEP = performed by medical professional
○​ TCA PEEL
○​ VI PEEL

Take before / after pictures to monitor process

Prep/ clean skin with cleanser
Skin Analysis
Apply balm or vaseline around eyes, underneath nose, around lips
Degreaser
Glycolic, salicylic
 ➔​ If client has sensitivity and client reacts, then do not complete peel - apply
degreaser and finish
Change gloves
Apply peels FAST and EVENLY
➔​ Use glycolic swab to APPLY PEEL because if you use cotton swab it will absorb
Change gloves
Neutralizer (omit if chemical peel is self-nuetralizing)
​ Warn client there may be a spike in sensitivity
​ Remove acid peel with gauze
Apply neutralizer on gauze and wait 5 minutes or until client doesn’t feel anymore
sensation
​ Remove forehead, cheek to ear, underneath lip, mouth and chin
​ ​ DO NOT use water on face after this step because risk peel reactivation
Apply SPF
Fitz 1-3 can handle more than
Fitz 3, 4 proceed with caution; start slow and increase with time
Fitz 5, 6 avoid TCA peels because can damage and oversensitize skin; glycolic acid peel should
be strongest peel for this type

Skin frosting = top of skin becomes white because skin cell in the area dies - cell death
AHA
Glycolic
Mandelic = more gentle; use for brightening and anti-aging
BHA
Use for acne

AFTERCARE
Do not exfoliate
No active ingredients
Don’t workout for first 3-4 days
Wear SPF and hat to protect face
Keep face mask off as much as you can because face will feel hot, and be sensitize
O2 LIFT
●​ Good treatment for before special event
○​ DO NOT exfoliate, extract or use steam
●​ 25 minute service
●​ Cleanse, tone, exfoliate with enzyme (NO STEAM), can do nourishing face massage
(DON’T leave oil on face before applying) , mask for 10 minutes, serum, moisturizer,
SPF
●​ Gommage exfoliator
○​ Gentle exfoliation
○​ Remove with warm towel
●​ Oxygenating Mask
○​ Do not massage to avoid irritation
○​ Pat in between hands to apply to face and neck
○​ Remove with esthi wipes
○​ DO NOT apply if client has open lesions, wounds, etc

FACIAL PROTOCOL BY DURATION OF PROCEDURE

50 min facial
5 min consultation before
5 min clean, disinfect and set up for next client

Set Up = 5-10 minutes

1.​ 1-2 minutes

A) Pre Cleanse (oil cleanser) Makeup removal
B) Cleanse (AM - use cream, PM use foam or gel)
2.​ 1-2 minutes Toner (pH balance/ remove extra product, dirt, debris, etc.
3.​ 5 minutes Exfoliation (manual, mechanical or chemical)
Use steamer/ vapor during this step
Different types of exfoliants: microdermabrasion, ultrasonic, enzymes, exfoliators or
galvanic (-)
​ 2 Types of Exfoliants:
 1.​ Physical/ mechanical
●​ Sugar, walnut shells, facial brushes, microdermabrasion
2.​ Chemical
●​ Acids = loosen chemical bond
○​ AHA (alpha hydroxy acids) = glycolic, lactic,
mandelic
○​ BHA (beta hydroxy acids) = salicylic acid
●​ Enzymes = dissolve dead cells
○​ Pineapple, papaya, pumpkin, pancreatin(animal
by-product)
Benefits of Exfoliating:
●​ Encourages product penetration
●​ Removes dead skin/ product build up
●​ Stimulate blood flow to the skin
●​ Encourages cellular turnover
a.​ Hot towel removal
4.​ 10- 15 minutes ( if longer than 10 minutes recommend to reschedule client) Extractions /
Tone
a.​ 5-10 minutes can incorporate LED / TESLA high frequency
5.​ Nourishing face/ decollete 10 minutes
a.​ Use massage medium i.e. facial oil or moisturizer mixed with oil
b.​ If client is oily skin type- can remove excess oil from face with wet esthi wipe
6.​ Serum (nourish/ product penetration)
Different types: galvanic (+), ultrasonic, microcurrent
7.​ 10-12 minutes Mask (can apply cotton to mummy)
a.​ Nourishing arms & hands massage (do while mask is on for 10-12 minutes)
8.​ 5 mins Tone / serum, moisturize, or oil to seal and SPF to finish
STATE BOARD PRACTICAL EXAM

3 main sections:
Superfluous Hair Removal
Facial
(Day Look) Makeup

Sanitation is the MAIN FOCUS

Bring all implements + tools cleaned + disinfected inside covered hard plastic container labeled
CLEAN

DAY LOOK MAKEUP FOR STATE BOARD

30 minutes including setup, application + clean up

Neutral, monochromatic colors are recommended

Client will sit up

​ Roll up a towel and prop up Barbara head
Brow pencil, eye pencil, lip pencil must be sanitized
​ Spray alcohol on sharpener + wipe it off
​ Spray alcohol on pencil once + wipe it off + sharpen it then wipe off any visible debris
​ ​ Can bring separate sharpener for each type of pencil
Base
​ (liquid) Foundation
​ Concealer (can spot conceal or highlight underneath eyes) a shade lighter
​ Setting Powder
​ Blush

Brows
​ Brush brows
Measure brows
​ Pencil in brows

Eyeshadow
​ Must be able to see 2 different colors
​ Do not go beyond 2 shades darker/lighter
​ NO glitter, shimmer

Eyeliner
Use finger barrier (paper towel) to anchor while applying eyeliner
Apply dark brown, brown, or black on upper eyelid above the lash line

Mascara
​ Use disposable spoolie and dip into mascara
​ ​ Can use 1 for both eyes or use 2 disposable spoolies
​ ​ DO NOT double dip mascara wand
​ ​ DO NOT pump spoolie into mascara bottle
​ ​
Lips
​ Apply lip liner
​ Apply lip color from palette

DIRTY IMPLEMENTS
●​ Once a tool is inside DIRTY container, it CANNOT be retrieved and used again
during service
●​ Don’t place anything in DIRTY container until complete
●​ Any soiled brushes + tools go into DIRTY container
CLEAN IMPLEMENTS
​ Use hard plastic covered container to store clean implements and tools

Cart Set Up
Makeup palettes, mascara, eyeliner, powders + liquids DO NOT go into dirty container
Dispose any disposable implements

STATE BOARD Containers for products

[Link]
MV6YK53JA?psc=1

*Please prepare for makeup practical

Eyebrow pencil
Lip pencil
Eye pencil (all pencils have to be wooden ones that can be sharpened)
Sharpener
Alcohol spray (travel size)
Mascara
Eye primer or foundation (if you prefer to use yours)
WAX PROTOCOL
Hard wax = face, underarms, bikini
​ Cooler wax, adheres to hair and removes without strips
Soft wax = legs, arms
​ Hotter temp wax, adheres to hair + skin; MUST be removed with muslin strip

Use oil just in case there is residual wax to remove

Have paper towel to pat dry
Apply soft wax THINLY Hand over hand when applying strips

SOFT WAX ON ARMS, LIPS, + LEGS

Clean + disinfect station
Sanitize hands and wear gloves
Prepare items for wax: powder, astringent, strips (make sure size is suitable for area),
moisturizing agent for afterwards
Consultation
Assess contraindications
Identify hair growth direction
Clean area with astringent and pat dry
Dust area with powder
​ NEVER DO ANYTHING OVER CLIENT
45 degree angle stick perpendicular to skin on inside of arm to TEST before applying to client
Apply wax on client
Dip stick into wax and slide off extra product / wax should only be on one side of stick
and twirl so wax stays on stick
​ (hold stick like a pencil when applying to lip)
Apply strip
Hold skin taut and pull strip in opposite direction parallel to skin
Clean skin with astringent
Can apply a mask (ADDED benefit) 5mins
Apply soothing aloe or moisturizing

LEGS (soft wax)

Start at hair growth to area without hair when doing soft wax on larger area like legs
Smooth strip onto skin
Hold skin taut and pull in opposite direction
Apply aloe

HARD WAX

UNDERARM
​ Because hair grows in different directions apply wax and remove
*always stir because wax will always create a film
Test on inside of arm
Apply with some pressure in U shape and have a lip at the bottom so you can easily remove
Let dry until tacky

BIKINI
2 side strips and 1 top strip
Cleanse with witch hazel
Pat dry with esthi wipe and apply powder
Apply with hair growth
Create a lip with second swipe of wax
Remove closer to body in opposite direction
If wax is left over take shiny part of wax strip and remove
​ TOUCHUP STRIPS
​ ​ Applied thinner and removed when sticky with ONLY a little

EYEBROW SCULPTING / HARD WAX

Cleanse
Powder
Trim any hair that goes over natural brow line
Use thin strip of hot hard wax
Wax middle of brows first then top using a v holding arch of brow

STATE BOARD HAIR REMOVAL ​

​ WAX upper lip
TWEEZING eyebrow
Tweezers should be placed in clean/ dirty section
Disposable items should be thrown in trash

Place paper towel underneath body part

Apply wax in direction of hair growth and remove against hair growth
Hand with stick should be over body part with hair
​ Right handed = start at wrist work to elbow
​ Left handed = start at elbow work to wrist
​ ​ Client’s right arm start from wrist and go towards elbow because your working
hand (left hand) should always be over hair not exfoliated / waxed skin

HAIR REMOVAL LAB & FINAL

●​ Arm wax w/ soft wax
●​ Lip wax w/ hard wax
●​ Eyebrow mapping and tweezing
​
Hair removal must be removed in four (4) sections
i.e. arm wax from wrist to elbow in 4 sections

Test wax on inside of wrist on yourself and client before waxing a new part of the body
Clean area
​ Use q-tip for upper lip or cotton or esti wipe
Apply powder w/ q-tip for lip, cotton for arm
Apply wax
Place strip & remove
Apply pressure to reduce pain
Clean area with witch hazel or toner
Apply soothing aloe

Tweezing eyebrow
Change gloves
Sanitize hands before new pair of gloves
Clean brow area with witch hazel w/ cotton
Measure eyebrows with wooden spatula
To soften eyebrow hair, apply a less than dime size to spoolie and apply to eyebrow hair
Use V to pull area tout tweeze in between and place hair onto cotton/ esti wipe wrap on finger

When tweezing wrap esthi wipe area and wet with a little astringent
Hold brow pull upward and outward
Go to base of hair and pull in direction of hair growth with tweezer
​ Remove NEW GROWTH hair only
FINAL PRACTICAL FRI 12/3/21
Hair removal
Facial
Makeup

STATE BOARD EXAM

face mask
face shield / face
ID
Pen
1 bowl (wet esti wipes, cotton, eye pads)
headband
headwrap

esti wipes (pre-moisten)

water spray bottle (labeled) (cleanse step)
paper towels
bed sheets (2)
drape for mannequin
wooden spatulas
trash bag (labeled TRASH)
clean / dirty plastic containers
sanitizing wipes

upper lip change gloves tweeze eyebrows

cleanse
tone
skin analysis
​ eye pads on client
​ use your skin/face for your Barbara
facial massage w/ massage medium oil or cream
​ effleurage
​ petrissage
​ friction
​ tapotement
remove oil
new gloves for extractions
​ eye pads on client
​ use mag lamp
​ use esthi wipes for extractions
​ astringent
​ remove gloves/ double glove
treatment mask​ (use container labeled for all skin types + wooden spatula) know 3 ingredients for skin type
​ eye pads on client
​ remove with wipes
daytime protection

set up makeup
any powders palettes spray with alcohol before and after use
any creams palettes spray with alcohol before, scrape product out and work from spatula, spray alcohol once done

match foundation on neck wait 5 secs

concealer
foundation
powder (can be dispensed onto paper towel)
blush
measure eyebrows
eyeshadow 2 day neutral colors
eyeliner pencil
spray palettes

CLEAN
tweezer sharpener

DIRTY
tweezer sharpener