WA T C H T I M E

More than 100 new watches from the

pages of watchtime
holiday gift guide
Clockwise from top left,
Zenith, Glashiitte Original, Harry Winston,
Casio, Audemars Piguet, TAG Heuer, Baume
& Mercier, Blancpain, Bell & Ross, Seiko,
Montblanc, Shinola, Ulysse Nardin, Omega,
Movado, Panerai, MeisterSinger, Rolex and

new collection
Clockwise from top left,
Zenith, Glashiitte Original, Harry Winston,
Casio, Audemars Piguet, TAG Heuer, Baume
& Mercier, Blancpain, Bell & Ross, Seiko,
Montblanc, Shinola, Ulysse Nardin, Omega,
Movado, Panerai, MeisterSinger, Rolex and

new designs
Clockwise from top left,
Zenith, Glashiitte Original, Harry Winston,
Casio, Audemars Piguet, TAG Heuer, Baume
& Mercier, Blancpain, Bell & Ross, Seiko,
Montblanc, Shinola, Ulysse Nardin, Omega,
Movado, Panerai, MeisterSinger, Rolex and

customer advice
Clockwise from top left,
Zenith, Glashiitte Original, Harry Winston,
Casio, Audemars Piguet, TAG Heuer, Baume
& Mercier, Blancpain, Bell & Ross, Seiko,
Montblanc, Shinola, Ulysse Nardin, Omega,
Movado, Panerai, MeisterSinger, Rolex and
limited to 500 pieces

branding
Clockwise from top left,
Zenith, Glashiitte Original, Harry Winston,
Casio, Audemars Piguet, TAG Heuer, Baume
& Mercier, Blancpain, Bell & Ross, Seiko,
Montblanc, Shinola, Ulysse Nardin, Omega,
Movado, Panerai, MeisterSinger, Rolex and

reviews
Clockwise from top left,
Zenith, Glashiitte Original, Harry Winston,
Casio, Audemars Piguet, TAG Heuer, Baume
& Mercier, Blancpain, Bell & Ross, Seiko,
Montblanc, Shinola, Ulysse Nardin, Omega,
Movado, Panerai, MeisterSinger, Rolex and
 MAGAZINE

A . LANGE & SOHNE

Wirh the new Cabaret Tourbillon Honeygold,
A. Lange & Söhne revisits one of its
the stage for some of the Glashütte-based
manufactures specialities: an outsize date, a
most technically significant rectangular power-reserve indication called "Auf/AB" and
watches. Premiered in 2008 as the world’s – of course – the [Link] entirely
first tourbillon wristwatch equipped with a in-house, the black-rhodiumed dial stands out
stop-seconds mechanism for the tourbillon, as a piece of miniature art. Produced entirely
the 50-piece limited edition unveiled during in-house, the black-rhodiumed dial stands
this years edition of the Concorso d’Eleganza out as a piece of miniature art. It is composed
Villa d’Este at Lake Como combines both a of three sections: the main part along with
case and dial crafted from its proprietary two subsidiary displays for the small seconds
Honeygold gold alloy. The watch is housed and finishing expertise. Its vibrant warm tone
in a 29.5mm by 39.2mm rectangular case contrasts beautifully with the black-rhodiumed
and measures 10.3mm in height. Its vibrant dial surface, which sets the stage for some of
warm tone contrasts beautifully with the the Glashütte-based manufactures specialities:
black-rhodiumed dial surface, which sets an outsize date, a power-reserve indication .

2
P
roduced entirely in-house, exact geometry and crisp outsize date are subsequently
Section Header
the black-rhodiumed dial contours of every angle and applied individually. In the
stands out as a piece of edge requires an exceptional final stage, the subsidiary
miniature art. It is composed degree of precision and hand- dials are connected with the
of three sections: the main finishing expertise. The three main dial from the back. From
part along with two subsidiary dial components are then black- the first production step to
displays for the small seconds rhodiumed before the raised the final assembly, the entire
and the UP/DOWN power- elements are carefully hand- process takes several weeks.
reserve indicator. The frames, finished to reveal the warm Like all the watches launched
scales, and “A. LANGE & SÖHNE” sheen of the Honeygold once since the collection’s last major
signature are painstakingly again against the darkened refresh in 2017, the Marine
worked directly from the background. Finely polished 5517 maintains a classic, naval
Honeygold base, rising 0.15m Roman numerals at III, IX, and chands, to name a few..
above the surface in sharply XII, six lozenge-shaped hour
defined relief. Achieving the markers, and the frame for the
MAGAZINE

Baume &
Mercier
T
he subtle wave pattern on the dial
is the only bit of playfulness Oris
allows in this extremely useful watch
for professional divers. All other details are
rigorously functional: the bezel’s entire
scale glows in the dark, the Rotation
Safety System allows the bezel to rotate
only after the surrounding safety ring has
been pulled up, and the water resistance
to a depth of 1,000 meters is well beyond
a casual diver’s deepest descent. These
features, plus the well-thought-out
bracelet with its loss-prevention and quick-
extension mechanisms, almost make you
glad to discover the nonfunctional pattern
on the [Link] the introduction of the
Omega Seamaster 300 in 1993, watches
with wave patterns on their dials have
become increasingly popular. Here’s a
closer look at some more recent models in
our latest visit to the WatchTime Archives.

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 MAGAZINE

T
he newly introduced large
Santos-Dumont variant focuses
on the dial: gold-plated obsidian
from Mexico, 0.3 millimeters thin,
with enclosed air bubbles that
create the typical iridescence. This
makes each piece unique but also
creates manufacturing challenges—
comparable to glass, the grinding
work is accordingly demanding. The

Secatibe runtum earum sincilla velenimus auta nobit raecus di omniet

bracelet draws on flexible metal bands
from the 1920s: 394 links in 15 rows,
each individually made and assembled,
with each link thickness measuring
1.15 millimeters. The result is a silk-
soft fit on the wrist that bears liThe
watch is powered by the manufacture
caliber 430 MC with manual winding.
Additionally, Cartier introduces two
new LM models of the Santos-Dumont

CARTIER in yellow gold and steel/gold with

satin sunray-brushed dials. The parallel

T
to the original Santos-Dumont from
he most elaborate watchmaking
1904, the first modern wristwatch,
novelty in this trio is the Crash
remains visible in all variants: Roman
Squelette. The specially developed
numerals, visible screws, round crown
caliber 1967 MC with manual winding
with blue cabochon.
had to be reduced to 142 components to
fit into the asymmetrical case. The bridges The manufacture caliber 1904-CH
are not only shaped as numerals, as in the MC with automatic winding and two-
well-known Cartier skeletonizing principle, pusher chronograph provides a 47-
but are completely hammered by hand:
about two hours of work per piece. The
deformation of the case interferes with
the movement— the impression that the
crown pulls the entire caliber downward is
no coincidence. Limited to 150 numbered
[Link] Tank Normale revives a platinum
reference from 1934— with a seven-line Uptur Quiae laccusam cum el molut rent.
platinum bracelet,Must,satin-finished surfaces
sinctota vollut as volorem eatur, eossit minimpo reperfe rione qui renisti aecaeratio
contrasting with polished
volecto berro blabedges
iminihion the et dolorp aut am, con con nim dolupta tissitatento to tem
cipsandit
brancards. Inside is a mechanical manual-
volut iunt pa volupti cum alita doloresciis eaquibusciis ditem ut endia dis
winding movement, no complication.

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 MAGAZINE

G
reubel Forsey will be revealing its
new Double Tourbillon 30° Technique
Ceramic at this year’s event, a watch
that combines the brand’s flagship Double
Tourbillon 30º Technique with a new ceramic
case and updated movement with sapphire
components. This movement is known as the
first of Greubel Forsey’s proprietary “Inventions,”
in which the company approached the concept
of a tourbillon as a regulating device differently
Secatibe runtum earum sincilla velenimus auta
than most manufacturers. In the Double
Tourbillon 30º Technique, a single 60-second

GREUBEL
FORSEY
tourbillon is inclined at a 30º angle
and surrounded by an outer tourbillon
that makesSedit
Busdae its own
est rotation
Dolorroevery four
minutes. In effect, this averages out
positional errors brought on by effects
of gravity on the watch’s oscillator to a
much higher degree than typically seen
in a tourbillon-enhanced timepiece. The
new watch will be limited to 11 total
models, and will be available exclusively
to U.S. collectors.
The new Récital 26 Brainstorm Chapter
One combines a sapphire version of
Secatibe runtum earum sincilla velenimus auta nobit raecus di omniet

Bovet’s famed “writing desk” sloped

case with an array of complications.
The watch features Bovet’s patented,
double-face flying tourbillon, which
debuted in Bovet’s 2015 collection,
and occupies a large aperture at the
6 o’clock position, and also serving
as the seconds display. In this model,
the entire case construction is built of
sapphire, and the asymmetrical shape
of this case, in combination with the
material, presented its designers with
some unique challenges.

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 MAGAZINE

Rose gold, 40 mm, Caliber

777A, automatic, $28,600.

I WC
S C H A F F H AU S E N

W
ith the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Le Petit
Prince, IWC Schaffhausen pays tribute to
Saint-Exupéry’s literary masterpiece. This
chronograph combines the emblematic design of IWC’s
Pilot’s Watches with the enduring magic of the story. The
stainless steel case measures 43 millimetres in diameter
and forms a striking contrast to the deep blue sunburst
dial, a signature feature of this special edition. White The chronograph is powered by the
numerals, combined with Super-LumiNova® indices and IWC-manufactured 69385 calibre,
gold-plated hands filled with Super-LumiNova®, ensure a mechanical chronograph move-
excellent legibility while lending the watch a refined and ment in a classic column-wheel
elegant appearance. The tinted sapphire glass case back design with a power reserve of 46
revealsSecatibe
a detailed depiction of the Little Prince, framed by
runtum earum sincilla velenimus auta nobit raecus di omniet
hours.
the engraving “Le Petit Prince”, a planet and two stars.
The robust blue rubber strap is
equipped with the EasX-CHANGE®
system and can be exchanged
quickly and without any tools at
the touch of a button. All orders
come with complimentary standard
delivery.

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 MAGAZINE

requires inventive minds and a state-

of-the-art manufacture, often with the
help of a few expert suppliers, as well
as extensive research and development.
It gets exponentially more difficult the

RICHARD MILLE thinner you want to make a watch. In

particular, taking off those last fractions

S
of millimeters so a movement can be
pace and energy are two of the watch movement’s most sought- among the thinnest ever produced is
after yet rarest commodities. The dimensions that you have an utterly complex and costly exercise.
available to create a movement, even when by your choosing, Knowing all this, the question arises as to
can make a huge difference. There is a reason that when brands or why you would even make an ultra-thin
dealers let us, as non-watchmakers, put a movement together just movement. The first reason for this is an
for the experience, they usually take a large Unitas caliber for this, like intricate part of human nature: because
the 6497. Initially designed as a robust pocket watch movement, all you can or want [Link], this was the
the parts are quite large to ensure that this caliber keeps on going. reason for developing manual-wind
Things become increasingly more complex when you bring down Caliber 9P, which launched at the 1957
these dimensions. When you decrease the movement’s diameter Basel Fair.
and thickness, space becomes increasingly a luxury that isn’t there
anymore. Parts not only have to become smaller but also thinner,
and they are placed closer to each other. Creating such a movement

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 MAGAZINE

R A LPH
LAU REN
Ralph Lauren brings back the iconic RL888 collection—first
launched in 2016 to celebrate the women’s flagship store
at 888 Madison
Av e n u e — w i t h
a refreshed look
for 2025. The
latest release in-
cludes two pol-
ished stainless
steel models in
32mm and 38mm
sizes, merging
the original col-
lection’s refined
charm with a
modern twist.

Staying true to
the brand’s first
round watch de-
signed exclusive-
ly for women,
the RL888 keeps
its signature
case shape and
distinctive dial
featuring a mix
of Roman and
Arabic numer-
als, paired with
elegant Breguet-
style hands. Pow-
ered by quartz
movement, each
piece can be
customised with
interchange-
able straps in
alligator, calfskin, patent leather, satin, or gros-
grain—ranging from timeless tones to bold hues.

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 MAGAZINE

VAC HER ON
CO N STANTI N
A
direct descendant finish on the bezel, crown
of the piece that and pusher ring. It creates
was created a subtle contrast that
for photographer and highlights the cutaway
explorer Cory Richards, and notches which echoes the
thoroughly field-tested shape of the Maltese Cross
under extreme conditions on the Overseas distinctive
during his 2019 ascent of bezel. A closer look at
Everest, the Overseas dual the dial invites the slow
time Cardinal Points comes in discovery of its details, with a
different shades. The 41mm mix finishes bringing depth
case, integrated bracelet and sophistication. The
and interchangeable orange hands that indicate
folding clasp are all made the second time zone and
of titanium, chosen for its the AM/PM function bring
lightness and strength. The a dash of contrast to dial,
distinctive aesthetic and underlining the watch’s
high-performance qualities sporty character. The watch
of titanium are heightened is customizable thanks to its
by a matte anthracite grey three easily interchangeable
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 MAGAZINE

VAN C L E E F & ARP E LS

In the early 1920s, Van Cleef & Arpels Titled “Fascinating Egypt,” the expansive
introduced its first Egyptian-inspired offering of nearly 180 pieces channels
jewels, planting the seeds of a rela- the romance of Egyptomania—from
tionship that would later see mem- the Art Deco obsession that followed
bers of Egypt’s royal family acquire the discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb
the maison’s creations throughout to the jeweler’s own historic Egyptian-
the ’30s and ’50s. It’s that dialogue inspired creations—through dazzling
between Egyptian history and Van gemstones and references to mytho-
Cleef & Arpels’s own heritage that logical figures. “For many years, the Mai-
informs the maison’s latest high son Van Cleef & Arpels, so inspired by
jewelry collection. The collection Egypt in the 1920s, has wished to pro-
pays tribute to notable heirlooms, long the story and present its own vi-
including the extraordinary diadem, sion of this ancient heritage,” Catherine
necklace, and pendant Renier, president and CEO of Van Cleef &
Arpels, said in a statement.

The “Rivage égyptien”

the “rivage égyptien”

magnifivtient

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 MAGAZINE

The Academia collection is their

showcase for new movement
and dial concepts, such as the
Force Constante. The Twenty-
8-Eight collection is comprised
of tourbillon watches. A typical
design feature of many models
is the gear-shaped [Link]
notable development by the
brand is their peripheral rotor
automatic winding system, first
shown in Cal. DW 8014 at Basel-
world 2010.

DeWitt won the Technical In-

novation and complication
Watch Prize at the Grand Prix
d'Horlogerie de Genève for
the Tourbillon Différentiel Aca-
demia in November, 2005.

DE W I T T
The Swiss watch manufacturer DeWitt
was established 2003 by Jérôme de
Witt, in continuation of the brand Cé-
dric Johner, which was already a very
successful Swiss luxury watch manu-
facturer. De Witt (pronounced “de
VIT”) is a high-end maker of so-called
“fusion” watches that combine high- Secatibe runtum earum sincilla velenimus auta nobit raecus di omniet
tech materials and traditional watch-
making craft. The company makes
many references to the ancestral link
between their founder and Napoléon
Bonaparte.

The company claims to be one of only

four companies capable of producing
both an in-house movement and dial.
The De Witt Manufacture is located
in Geneva and includes over 5,000
square meters and 60 employees.

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 MAGAZINE

S E I KO R ADO
Grand Seiko has always been distinct in its The vivid red strap creates a striking contrast,
design, character, presentation and, more echoed by red accents on the dial and set
recently, its calibers. In order to further rein- against the polished bezel. Here, colour is used
force its unique appeal and to reach out to a to highlight the skeletonised movement at the
wider audience, it was decided to take one core. Crafted in soft, flexible rubber, the strap of-
step further and presenting Grand Seiko as fers lasting comfort and durability - balancing
an entirely separate brand. bold design with everyday [Link] is
Practicality and durability are vital attributes known as the Master of Materials: from high-
of all the best sports watches and are also tech ceramic to sapphire crystal and diamonds
core values of Grand Seiko which has dem- to stainless steel, our innovative watches have
onstrated a consistent commitment to the no boundaries when it comes to design.
pure essentials of watchmaking since its Feel and discover the Rado difference!
creation in 1960. The Rado Anatom might be named for the way
Grand Seiko expands its design into sports its sculpted form
watch category from the black ceramic mod- sinuously fol-
els introduced in 2016. lows the outer
contours of the
wrist, and, after
more than 40
years, it’s un-

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 MAGAZINE

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