Definition of count | Types of count

Yarn count: The yarn count is a numerical expression which defines its fineness or coarseness.
It also expresses weather the yarn is thick or thin. A definition is given by the textile institute –
“Count is a number which indicates the mass per unit length or the length per unit mass of yarn.”
Types of yarn count:
a) Indirect system- English, Metric, Worsted.
b) Direct system- Tex, Denier, Lbs/Spindle.
Indirect count: The count of yarn expresses the number of length units in one weight unit. Thus
higher the count, finer the yarn. The system is generally used for cotton, worsted, linen (wet
spun) etc.
wxL
Indirect count: N= ………………
WXl
Where, W = The weight of the sample.
w = The unit weight of the system.
L = The length of the sample.
l = The unit length of the sample.
Direct count: The count of yarn expresses the no. of weight units in one length unit. Thus higher
the count, coarser the yarn. The system is generally used for synthetic fibre, jute, silk etc.
WXl
Direct count: N = …………
wXL
Where,
N = The yarn number or, count.
W = The weight of the sample.
w = The unit weight of the sample.
L = The length of the sample.
l = The unit length of the sample.
In Details:
English system: It is defined as the number of hanks 840 yds per pound is called yarn count.
Length (yds) 1 pound
English cotton count, N =……………… X …………………
840 yds Weight (Pound)
Metric system: It is defined as the number of hank (1000m) per kg.
Length (m) 1 kg
Metric count =………………… X …………………….
1000m Weight (kg)
Worsted system: It is defined as the number of hanks (540yds) per pound.
Length (yds) 1 Pound
Worsted count =…………………… X …………………
560 (yds) Weight (Pound)
Tex system or, Lea count: It is defined as the weight in grams of 1000m is called tex count.

Weight (gm) 1000m

Tex count =……………… X ……………
 1 gm Length (m)
Denier: The number or, count in the denier system is the weight in grams of 9000m.
Weight (gm) 9000m
Denier count =……………… X ………….
1 gm Length
Pounds per spindle (Jute system): Count in the pound per spindle system is the weight in pounds
of 14400 yards of yarn.
Weight (Pound) 14400 (yds)
Pound per spindle =………………. X …………….....
1 Pound Length (yds

Basic conversions of count---

Denier = 9 X Tex
Ne X Denier = 0.5315
Metric X Tex = 1000
Tex X Ne = 590.5
Ne = Metric X 0.5905
Metric X denier = 9000

Tex = 34.45 X.......................

Lb

Spindle
1 yd = 0.9144 m
1 m = 1.0936 yard
1 m = 39.37 inch
1 cm = 0.3937 inch
1 gm = 0.353 oz (ounce)
1 oz = 28.350 gm
1 pound = 453.6 gm
1 kg = 2.204 pound
1 m/kg = 0.4961 yd/lb
1 inch = 2.54 cm
1 m2 = 1.196 yd2
1 yd2 = 0.8361 m2
1 gm/m2 = 0.0295 oz/yd2
1 oz/yd2 = 33.91 gm/m2
1 pound = 0.4536 kg
1 yd/lb = 2.0159 m/kg
 he system by which we determine the yarn number is called count. Count is the number of yarn
denoting the sophistication or obesity of yarn. So by linear density or the yarn count, we can know how
fine or course the yarn is. It indicates the mass per unit length or length per unit mass of yarn.

The length of the sample X Weight unit

- Indirect count system = ………………………………………………

The weight of the sample X Length unit

From the above formula, the count in different indirect systems is as follows –

Sample yarn length (yds) X 1 lb

1. English cotton count (Ne) = ………………………………………………

Sample yarn weight (lb) X 840 yds

Sample yarn length (m) X 1 kg

2. Metric count (Nm) = ………………………………………………

Sample yarn weight (kg) X 1000 m

Sample length (m) X 0.5 kg

3. French or Continental count (Nf) = …………………………………………

Sample weight (kg) X 1000 m

Sample length (yds) X 1 lb

4. Worsted count (w) = ………………………………………………

 Sample weight (lb) X Weight unit

Sample yarn weight X length unit

- Direct count system = ……………………………………………

Sample yarn length X Weight unit

From the above formula, the count in different direct systems is as follows –

Sample yarn weight (gm) X 1000 m

1. Tex count = ……………………………………………………

Sample yarn length (m) X 1 gm

Sample weight (gm) X 9000 m

2. Denier count = ………………………………………………

Sample length (m) X 1 gm

Sample weight (lb) X 14400 yds

3. Linen/Hemp/Jute count = …………………………………………………

Sample length (yds) X 1 lb

Conversion of count from one count to another

1. Denier to cotton:
English cotton count = 5315/Yarn count in denier system

2. Denier to Tex:
Tex count = Count in denier system/9
3. English to Tex:
Tex count = 590.5/English count
4. English to denier:
Denier count = 5315/English count
5. Cotton to metric:
Metric count = English cotton count X 1693
6. Tex to denier:
Denier = Tex X 9

Resultant count of yarn (For same count of yarn)

1. Resultant count of indirect system = Count of single yarn/No. of doubling or ply
2. Resultant count of direct system = Count of single yarn X No. of doubling or ply
 Resultant count of yarn (For different count of yarn)
1. Resultant count of indirect system = 1/Sum of the weight of folded yarn’s length unit
2. Resultant count of direct system = Sum of the weight of folded yarn’s length unit

Mathematical problems and solution of yarn count

1. Find out the cotton count if weight of 8400 yds yarn is 1 lb.
Solution:

We know,

Length (yds) 1 lb

English cotton count =…………………….. X …………………

840 (yds) Weight (lb)

8400 yds 1 lb

= ……………………… X …………………… = 10 S (ANS).

840 yds 1 lb

2. If 120 yds cotton yarn having 25 grain weight then what will be the count?
Solution:

Yarn length (yds) 1 lb

English cotton count = ……………………………. X ……………………….

840 yds Yarn weight (lb)

= 120/840 X 1/(25/7000) = 120/840 X 7000/25

= 40S (ANS).

3. If 1000m Nylon yarn having 1.67gm weight then what will be the Denier?
Solution:

We know,

Yarn wt. (lb) 14400 yds

Jute count = ……………………….. X ………………………

1 lb Yarn length (yds)

 3/16 14400 yds

= ……………… X ………………….

1 lb 100 yds

= 3/16 X 14400/100 = 27 lb/Spindle (ANS).

4. Find out the metric count if weight of the 400m yarn is 40gm.
Solution:

We know,

Length (m) 1 kg

Metric count = …………………….. X …………………

1000 m Weight (m)

= 400m/1000m X 1kg/(4kg/1000) = 10S (ANS).

5. Find out the worsted count if the weight of 80 yds is 50 grain.

Solution:

We know that,

Length (yds) 1 lb

Worsted count = ……………………… X …………………

560 yds Weight (lb)

80 yds 1 lb

= …………………… X …………………….

560 yds 50/7000 lb

= 20S (ANS).

6. A trading corporation provides you a 24.3 Ne yarn, Find out the Tex and denier of that yarn.
Solution:

Given,

Wk = 1 lb = 453.6 gm
 Wr = 1 gm

Ik = 840 yds = 840 X 0.9144 m

Ir = 1000 m

We know,

1 Wk/Wr

Nr = ………… X ………………

Nk Ik/Ir

1 453.6/1

Tex = ……………. X …………………………………..

24.3 (840 X 0.9144)/1000

= 24.3 Tex (ANS).

Again,

We know denier = 9 X Tex

= 9 X 24.3 Tex = 218.7 denier (ANS)

Definition of resin
Synthetic resins are complex organic products of high molecular weight. Resin results when a number of
simple molecular of low molecular weight become jointed together and to end to form much longer
molecules which may be linear or linear molecules cross-linked.
The main outlet of resins has been the plastic industry and the electric field, considerable amounts has
been used as paints and varnishes.

Definition of resin finishing

The process of applying resins on textile material so that they cross link inside the amorphous region,
block the free hydroxyl groups, prevent the H-bond formation and thus improve resin finishing.

It may be applied on the surface of the material to form a coating or it may be applied to the amorphous
region of the material to impart a crease resisting property.

It is a permanent chemical finishing. The principle is based on the formation of infinite networks and the
quantitative characterization of network structure with cross linking of homogeneous polymers.

Importance/Why resin finishing is applied on cotton

 Improved resistance and recovery to creasing is important by this finish.

 It improves resilience, handle and draping properties of fabrics.
 Increase in weight is achieved.
 Increase the strength of rayon in both hot and cold state.
 Decrease the extension of rayon with freedom from distortion.
 By this finish, dye fastness can be improved.
 It sometimes resists the degradation of textile material by light.
 It gives comfort to wearer in different climates.
 It imparts adequate resistance to wear and tear of fabrics.
 It provides full retention of all creases and pleats.
 Good soil repellency and easy removal of soil by washing can be achieved by this finish.

General recipe for resin finishing of cellulosic material

Cross-linking agent: 100-120 gm/l

MgCl2: 100-120 gm/l

PH (Maintained by CH3COOH): 4.5-5

Drying temperature: 1000C

Curing temperature: 130-1700C

Curing time: 2-4 minutes

Cross-linking agents
Cross-linking agents create chemical bonds between polymer molecules to form a three dimensional
network e.g. in a fibre or in a pigment binder. This generally restricts swelling in inhibits solubility and
alters elastic recovery. The most important cross-linking agents are:

 Urea formaldehyde
 Tetramethylol Acetylene diUrea (TMADU)
 Dimethyl Ethylene Urea (DMEU)
 Dimethylol Dihydroxy Ethylene Urea (DMDHEU