Component Manual

NS engine

English
Printed in the Netherlands DW032089
 NS ENGINE

DAF Trucks N.V., Eindhoven, the Netherlands

No part of this publication may be reproduced

and/or published by printing, photocopying,
microfilming or by any other means without the
manufacturer’s prior permission in writing.

9506 DW032089
NS ENGINE

9506
 NS ENGINE
Contents

CONTENTS
Page

1. INTRODUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
1.1 General . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
1.2 Engine data . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

2. SPECIAL TOOLS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

3. TECHNICAL DATA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
3.1 General . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
3.2 Tightening torques . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
3.3 Lubrication, fuel and cooling systems . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
3.4 Valves and timing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
3.5 Overhaul data . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
3.6 Measuring of wear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29

4. BUILT–ON COMPONENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
4.1 Removal and installation of glow plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
4.2 Removal and installation of inlet manifold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
4.3 Removal and installation of turbocharger . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
4.4 Removal and installation of exhaust manifold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
4.5 Removal and installation of air compressor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
4.6 Removal and installation of steering pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
4.7 Removal and installation of starter motor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42
4.8 Removal and installation of alternator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43
4.9 Removal and installation of V–belts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44
4.10 Checking and adjusting V–belt tension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45

5. CYLINDER HEAD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49
5.1 Component drawing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49
5.2 Removal and installation of cylinder head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52
5.3 Pressure–testing the cylinder head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57
5.4 Removal and installation of injector sleeves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58
5.5 Removal and installation of valve gear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60
5.6 Removal and installation of valves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63
5.7 Checking and adjusting the valve clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65
5.8 Machining the cylinder head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67

6. FLYWHEEL AND FLYWHEEL HOUSING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69

6.1 Component drawing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69
6.2 Removal and installation of flywheel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70
6.3 Checking the flywheel for axial run–out . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71
6.4 Removal and installation of flywheel ring gear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72
6.5 Removal and installation of flywheel housing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73
6.6 Removal and installation of rear crankshaft oil seal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75

7. TIMING GEAR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77
7.1 Component drawing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77
7.2 Removal and installation of vibration damper and pulley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80
7.3 Removal and installation of front crankshaft oil seal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82
7.4 Removal and installation of timing cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83
7.5 Removal, installation and adjustment of timing gear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84
7.6 Removal and installation of timing case . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90

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Contents

8. CYLINDER BLOCK AND DRIVE UNIT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92

8.1 Component drawing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92
8.2 Removal and installation of pistons and connecting rods . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95
8.3 Removal and installation of crankshaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100
8.4 Crankshaft grinding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104
8.5 Removal and installation of camshaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106
8.6 Measuring and assessment of cylinder liners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109
8.7 Removal and installation of cylinder liners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111
8.8 Measuring and correcting cylinder liner height . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113
8.9 Pressure–testing the cylinder block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114
8.10 Machining the cylinder block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115

9. COOLING SYSTEM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116

9.1 Removal and installation of thermostat and thermostat housing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116
9.2 Removal and installation of fan and coupling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118
9.3 Removal and installation of coolant pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120
9.4 Disassembly and assembly of coolant pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121

10. LUBRICATION SYSTEM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126

10.1 External parts of the lubrication system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126
10.2 Removal and installation of oil sump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130
10.3 Internal parts of the lubrication system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132
10.4 Disassembly and assembly of oil pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135

11. FUEL SYSTEM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137

11.1 Removal and installation of injector pipes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137
11.2 Removal and installation of injectors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138
11.3 Removal and installation of fuel pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141
11.4 Checking and setting the pump timing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145

2
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Introduction

1. INTRODUCTION
1.1 GENERAL

Foreword
This component manual is intended to assist
well–trained and experienced workshop staff in
overhauling components and carrying out
setting operations and repairs.
With this in mind, the following subjects have
been included: special tools, technical data, the
removal and installation of components, the
disassembly and assembly of components, and
setting procedures.
The book also includes safety instructions and
warnings which must be strictly complied with.

This publication is based on new parts in

ex–works condition.
As there are several types and versions of the
engines described in this manual, some of the
descriptions and drawings may not fully match
the situation in the engine you are working on.

The lists of technical data and setting data in

this component manual have been prepared
with the greatest possible care, and relate solely
to the engines described in this manual.

The information given in this manual was

up–to–date at the date of issue. The date of
issue is shown at the bottom of each page.

If considered necessary, DAF reserves the right

to make changes to the procedures and setting
data specified, without prior notice.

Important alterations relating to these workshop

instructions will be announced via the T.I.
(Technical Information) bulletins. These bulletins
are available via your contact person.

To ensure that the operations are carried out

sensibly and safely, the mechanic must have the
necessary experience, and have completed the
necessary training courses.

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Introduction

– Always use the special tools specified in

this manual.
The use of these tools will make the work
not only easier and faster, but also safer,
whilst irreparable damage to the part or
component will be avoided.
– Only use original DAF parts and
components.
These parts and components are carefully
matched, which is one of the factors
determining the original DAF quality. This
quality will best be maintained if, in the
event of replacement, original DAF parts
and components are used.
– Catch any oils or fluids which escape, and
ensure that they are correctly disposed of
or processed.

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Introduction

Safety instructions
When text is accompanied by the warning
symbol shown here, this indicates that the
information in question is very important for the
health and safety of the mechanic. Any
instructions marked with the warning symbol
must therefore be strictly followed.
– Follow the instructions printed on stickers
and labels attached to the component.
– Avoid unnecessary skin contact with
drained oils and other fluids.
– Be aware when working with springs under
tension. When released, springs can cause
serious injuries. Even small springs and
circlips can cause injury (remember eye
protection).
– When removing and installing heavy
components, always use approved lifting
and/or hoisting equipment, and connect this
equipment securely to the component.
– Certain plastics used in oil seals and other
sealing rings may leave harmful residues
after they have been exposed to high
temperatures.
When removing such residues, wear
protective acid–resistant clothing and PVC
gloves. The residues must be immersed in
or generously sprayed with a calcium
hydroxide solution (slaked lime in water).
Protective clothing must be carefully
cleaned after use. The gloves should be
treated as chemical waste.

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Introduction

Dipped bolts – Special threaded connections: apply the

Vehicles and components may be fitted with lubricant before fitting, and tighten/retorque
dipped threaded fasteners. to the torques specified in the workshop
In production, zinc–coated nuts and bolts are manual.
wax–dipped, whilst blacked and phosphated The instructions for the use of a lubricant
nuts and bolts are oil–dipped. The advantage of also apply to new bolts supplied from the
the use of dipped nuts and bolts is reduced warehouse. Dry threaded connections are
friction during tightening, so that the specified no longer permitted because of the highly
pre–tension can be accurately obtained (smaller variable friction coefficients.
spread). – If a locking compound is specified, no drop
As this also results in a smaller spread for the of oil need be applied to the screw thread.
tightening torque, the specified tightening
torques should be adhered to more accurately.
So always use a reliable and accurate torque
wrench.

Note:
Have torque wrenches regularly calibrated.

Instructions applying to threaded

connections:
– To obtain the correct pre–tension for nuts
and bolts which are being re–used, the
screw thread should be thoroughly cleaned.
After the cleaning, apply one drop of
lubricant to the first turn of the screw thread
and one drop to the bearing face of the nut
or bolt. The only lubricant permitted for
re–used nuts and bolts is engine oil. It is on
no account permitted to use other lubricants
than engine oil and the lubricant applied in
production.
The use of locking compounds on dipped
nuts and bolts gives no problems. The
locking compound should be applied to the
screw thread before the lubricant.
– Standard threaded connections: apply the
lubricant before fitting, and tighten/retorque
in accordance with the standard for dipped
bolts.

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Introduction

Use of locking compounds – As the locking compound also reduces

This component manual indicates when the use frictional resistance, no oil need be applied
of a locking compound is required and it also to the screw thread.
gives information about the type of locking – Tighten the fastener to the specified torque.
compound to be used.
The locking compounds specified are mainly the
following:
– A locking compound for medium–strength
locking of threaded connections. These
threaded connections can be unscrewed
with normal tools.
The locking compound specified is
Loctite 243 or an equivalent product.
– A locking compound for high–strength
locking of threaded connections, which is
mainly used for studs and such like.
These threaded connections are difficult to
unscrew.
The locking compound specified is
Loctite 270 or an equivalent product.

The method of application is the same for the

two locking compounds.
– Clean the internal and external screw
threads.
– Degrease the screw thread, using a suitable
degreasing agent which leaves no residue
that could reduce the action of the locking
compound.

Note:
Some cleaning agents have a negative effect on
the action of the locking compound.
The general rule is therefore that threaded
fasteners and components which have been
cleaned with a cleaning agent, should be given
after–treatment with a cleaning fluid which
guarantees the action of the locking compound
(see the manufacturer’s instructions).
– Depending on the screw thread diameter,
apply one or several drops of locking
compound to the screw thread.
– Apply one drop of oil to the underside of the
bolt head.

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Introduction

Tightening torques The property class code of the nut or bolt is

Table of standard tightening torques, taken stamped on the nut or bolt, except on the
from standard 00804–203 clamping flange bolt. A clamping flange bolt can
The tightening torques in the table below are the be recognised by the waist between the
standard tightening torques, and apply hexagon head and the flange, which an ordinary
exclusively to oil–dipped or wax–dipped flange bolt does not have (see the drawings
threaded fasteners, which should be fitted in below).
accordance with the instructions given above.

Clamping flange bolt Flange bolt M2 00 001

Tightening torques for dipped threaded fasteners (Nm).

Property class Property class Property class

Bolt 8.8, nut 8 Bolt 10.9, nut 10 Bolt 12.9, nut 12
M 4 2.5
0.2
M 5 5.1
0.4
M 6 8.6
0.7
M 8 21
2 M 8 27
2 M 8 32
3
M 10 42
3 M 10 55
5 M 10 65
5
M 12 75
5 M 12 95
10 M 12 115
10
M 14 115
10 M 14 150
15 M 14 180
15
M 16 180
15 M 16 225
20 M 16 275
20
M 18 250
20 M 18 320
25 M 18 385
30
M 20 350
30 M 20 440
35 M 20 550
45
M 22 480
40 M 22 615
50 M 22 740
60
M 24 600
50 M 24 770
60 M 24 925
75
M 27 890
70 M 27 1110
90 M 27 1370
110
M 30 1200
100

Clamping flange bolts Have torque wrenches regularly calibrated !

Property class
Bolt 12.9, nut 12
M 12 180
15
M 14 275
20
M 16 425
35
M 18 550
45
M2 00 002

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Introduction

Use of seals
This manual indicates when the use of a seal is
required and it also gives information about the
type of seal to be used.

Gaskets
– Remove the old gaskets before fitting new
ones. Clean the contact faces and check
them for damage.
– Apply a little grease to paper gaskets
before fitting them. Generally, these
gaskets have a graphite coating. They are
intended for the sealing of flat parts, and
are resistant to oil, water and heat.
– Special instructions apply for engine
cylinder head gaskets.

Liquid gaskets
The liquid gaskets mainly used are Loctite 510
or an equivalent sealant.
These sealants, which replace the conventional
gaskets, have been developed for the sealing of
flat surfaces, and are resistant to oil and
temperatures of approx. 200_C

Apply the sealant as follows:

– Remove any remaining gasket pieces, and
clean the surfaces to be sealed.
– Sparingly apply the specified sealant to one
of the surfaces to be sealed. Ensure proper
sealing around studs, bores and suchlike.
– Place the surfaces to be sealed against one
another, and evenly tighten the attachment
bolts.
– Any sealant present in (oil) bores must be
carefully removed.

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Introduction

Oil seals
– An oil seal is fitted into a housing by
applying steady pressure with a driving tool.
– Pay attention to any marks indicating the
outside of the oil seal and the direction of
shaft rotation.
– Once a unitised seal has been removed, it
must not be re–used !
– When an oil seal without sheathing is fitted,
it is usually given a liquid gasket on the
circumference. An oil seal with rubber
sheathing is fitted with oil or liquid soap
(except when it is a unitised seal).
– Lightly oil or grease the sealing edge of the
oil seal and the running surface (do not do
this with unitised seals).

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Introduction

1.2 ENGINE DATA

Type: NS 133 L
Description: Vertical, six–cylinder, 4–stroke diesel engine, water–cooled,
with direct injection, turbocharging and charge cooling
Bore: 104.2 mm
Stroke: 122.0 mm
Swept volume: 6.24 litres
Compression ratio: 16.5 : 1
Max. output: 133 kW at 2,600 rpm
Max. torque: 600 Nm at 1,500 rpm
Max. engine speed under load: 2,600 rpm
Torque at max. engine speed: 488 Nm
Engine weight: approx. 600 kg
Emission levels : To Euro 1 specification

Type: NS 156 L
Description: Vertical, six–cylinder, 4–stroke diesel engine, water–cooled,
with direct injection, turbocharging and charge cooling
Bore: 104.2 mm
Stroke: 122.0 mm
Swept volume: 6.24 litres
Compression ratio: 16.5 : 1
Max. output: 156 kW at 2,600 rpm
Max. torque: 720 Nm at 1,500 rpm
Max. engine speed under load: 2,600 rpm
Torque at max. engine speed: 572 Nm
Engine weight: approx. 600 kg
Emission levels: To Euro 1 specification

Type: NS 133 M
Description: Vertical, six–cylinder, 4–stroke diesel engine, water–cooled,
with direct injection, turbocharging and charge cooling
Bore: 104.2 mm
Stroke: 122.0 mm
Swept volume: 6.24 litres
Compression ratio: 16.5 : 1
Max. output: 133 kW at 2,500 rpm
Max. torque: 630 Nm at 1,700 rpm
Max. engine speed under load: 2,500 rpm
Torque at max. engine speed: 508 Nm
Engine weight: approx. 600 kg
Emission levels: To Euro 2 specification

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Introduction

Type: NS 156 M
Description: Vertical, six–cylinder, 4–stroke diesel engine, water–cooled,
with direct injection, turbocharging and charge cooling
Bore: 104.2 mm
Stroke: 122.0 mm
Swept volume: 6.24 litres
Compression ratio: 16.5 : 1
Max. output: 156 kW at 2,500 rpm
Max. torque: 735 Nm at 1,700 rpm
Max. engine speed under load: 2,500 rpm
Torque at max. engine speed: 596 Nm
Engine weight: approx. 600 kg
Emission levels : To Euro 2 specification

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Special tools

2. SPECIAL TOOLS

Item Description Application DAF no.

1 Camshaft gear puller Removing camshaft gear 0535144
2 Engine oil pressure gauge Measuring lubricating oil pressure 0535551
3 Cylinder liner remover/installer Removing and installing cylinder 0535625
liners
4 Threaded spindle Removing and installing cylinder 0535626
(part of 0535625) liners
5 Disc Removing and installing cylinder 0535629
(part of 0535625) liners
6 Bronze nut Removing and installing cylinder 0535632
(part of 0535625) liners
7 Bronze nut Removing and installing cylinder 0535633
(part of 0535625) liners
8 Disc Removing and installing cylinder 0535755
(part of 0535625) liners
9 Pin Removing and installing cylinder 0535756
(part of 0535625) liners
10 Bearing set Removing and installing cylinder 0535937
(part of 0535625) liners
11 Height measuring block Measuring cylinder liner height 0694795
12 Injector puller Removing injectors 0694835
13 Oil heat exchanger pressure tester Pressure–testing oil heat exchanger 0694889
14 Oil seal installer Installing rear crankshaft oil seal 0694899
15 Guide pin Installing cylinder head 0694912
16 Oil seal installer Installing front crankshaft oil seal 0694914
17 Slide hammer Removing injector sleeves 0694928
18 Injector sleeve puller Removing injector sleeves 0694930
19 Fuel pump timing tool Setting and checking pump timing 0694981
20 Coolant pump bearing installer Installing and supporting coolant 0694983
pump
21 Coolant pump seal installer Installing coolant pump seal 0694984
22 Injector sleeve scraper Cleaning injector sleeves 1240074
23 Injector sleeve installer Installing injector sleeves 1240077
24 “Krikit I” V–belt Adjusting single V–belt tension 1240443
tension gauge (250 – 700 N)

9506 13
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Special tools

1 2

0535144 0535551

3 4

0535625 0535626

5 6

0535629 0535632

14
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Special tools

7 8

0535633 0535755

9 10

0535756 0535937

11 12

0694795 0694835

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Special tools

13 14

0694889 0694899

15 16

0694912 0694914

17 18

0694928 0694930

16
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 NS ENGINE
Special tools

19 20

0694981 0694983

21 22

0694984 1240074

23 24

1240077 1240443

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Technical data

3. TECHNICAL DATA
3.1 GENERAL

The data refer to new parts in ex–works Sealing compounds

condition. Loctite 510
Loctite 572
The definitions of “cold engine” and “warm Loctite 601
engine” are as follows: Well seal (DAF no. 0520062)
– A “cold engine” is an engine which, after Transparent silicon cement (non–corrosive,
having been at operating temperature, has oil–resistant and temperature–resistant between
been allowed to cool down for at least six –50_ and +150_ C)
hours.
– A “warm engine” is an engine which, after Lubricants
having been at operating temperature, has Copaslip
not been operated for at most thirty Molykote
minutes.

The direction of rotation of the engine is

clockwise, as seen from the timing gear end.

The first cylinder of the engine is the cylinder at

the timing gear end.

The left–hand side of the engine is the left–hand

side as seen from the flywheel end. On NS
engines, this is the side where the fuel pump is
located.

The right–hand side of the engine is the

right–hand side as seen from the flywheel end.
On NS engines, this is the side where the air
compressor is located.

For the tightening torques, see the standard

tightening torques for dipped nuts and
bolts, section 1, “Introduction”.
Only the tightening torques which differ from
these standard tightening torques are listed in
the technical data.

When locking and sealing compounds are used,

the threaded parts of nuts, bolts, studs and
tapped holes should be carefully cleaned and
degreased to ensure optimum effectiveness of
the locking or sealing compound.

Overview of locking compounds, sealants,

etc.
Any locking compound, sealant, lubricant or
other product mentioned may be replaced by an
equivalent.

Locking compounds
Loctite 243
Loctite 270

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Technical data

3.2 TIGHTENING TORQUES

Starter motor
Starter motor attachment nuts: 45 Nm*

Alternator
Pulley attachment nut: 55 Nm

Air compressor
Compressor gear flange nut: 150 Nm
Compressor attachment bolts: 25 Nm*

Sensors and transmitters

Temperature sensor: 20 Nm maximum
Pulse transmitter, rev counter: 50 Nm maximum

Exhaust manifold
Exhaust manifold attachment nuts: 45 Nm
Lubricant for studs: Copaslip

Inlet manifold
Inlet manifold attachment bolts: 21 Nm

Turbocharger
Turbine housing clamping plate bolts: 25 Nm
Compressor housing clamping plate bolts: 17 Nm
Turbocharger/manifold flange nut: 45 Nm
Turbocharger/exhaust flange nut: 21 Nm
Lubricant for studs: Copaslip

Oil sump
Oil drain plug: 50 Nm maximum
Sump attachment nuts: 21 Nm

Injectors
Injector clamp nut: 35 Nm
Injector pipe union: 25 Nm maximum

Fuel pump
Flange attachment nut, fuel pump drive
NS–L engine (a/f = 27 mm): 100 Nm
NS–M engine (a/f = 30 mm): 150 Nm
Clamping plate attachment bolts: 55 Nm
Fuel pump/timing case attachment bolts: 21 Nm

Coolant pump
Coolant pump attachment bolts: 21 Nm*
Hub attachment bolts: 45 Nm*

Steering pump
Steering pump attachment bolts: 45 Nm

Thermostat housing
Thermostat housing attachment bolts: 21 Nm*
* Use Loctite 243

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Technical data

Valve cover
Valve cover attachment bolts: 20 Nm

Cylinder head
Lock nut for valve adjusting screw: 65 Nm
Rocker shaft bracket attachment bolt: 45 Nm
Valve cover attachment bolts: 21 Nm
Cylinder head bolts
1st stage M 16 bolts: 50 Nm*
2nd stage M 16 bolts: 150 Nm
3rd stage M 10 bolts: 50 Nm**
4th stage M 16 angle tightening: 60_
5th stage M 16 angle tightening: 60_

For the re–use of cylinder head bolts, consult section 5, “Cylinder head”.

Cylinder block
Main bearing cap attachment bolts: 210 Nm***
Connecting rod cap attachment bolts: 100 Nm***
Water cover attachment bolts: 21 Nm
Side cover attachment bolts: 21 Nm

Timing
Pulley attachment bolts: 45 Nm*
Vibration damper crank bolt/attachment bolt: 420 Nm*
Timing case attachment bolts: 21 Nm*
Timing cover attachment bolts: 21 Nm*
Camshaft thrust washer attachment bolts: 21 Nm*
Camshaft gear attachment bolt: 420 Nm*
Idler gear attachment bolt: 100 Nm

Flywheel
Flywheel attachment bolts: 75 Nm*

Flywheel housing
Flywheel housing attachment bolts: 27 Nm*
Sealing compound: Loctite 510

Lubrication system
Attachment bolts for oil pump on bearing cap: 45 Nm****
Oil pump housing attachment bolts: 21 Nm*
All attachment bolts for internal oil pipes
and brackets: 21 Nm*
Heat exchanger attachment bolt: 20 Nm*

Engine mountings
Engine bracket/flywheel housing attachment bolts: 250 Nm
* Use Loctite 243
** Use Loctite 572
*** Apply a drop of engine oil to thread and bearing face
**** Use Loctite 270

20
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Technical data

3.3 LUBRICATION, FUEL AND COOLING SYSTEMS

Lubrication system capacity

Total capacity, including filters: approx. 14 litres
Oil sump capacity
– maximum level: approx. 12 litres
– minimum level: approx. 8.5 litres

Lubricating oil pressure

Oil pressure (engine at operating temperature)
– idling speed, new engine: min. 1.0 bar
– idling speed, used engine: min. 0.35 bar
– maximum engine speed: 3.0 – 4.0 bar

Lubrication filter
Type: disposable
Number: 1

Lubricating oil heat exchanger

Opening pressure of by–pass valve: difference of 1 bar
Test pressure of coolant section: 1.5 bar
Test pressure of lubricant section: 6.0 bar

Fuel pump
Firing order: 1–5–3–6–2–4
Commencement of injection
NS 133 L: 14_
1_
NS 156 L: 15_
1_
NS 133 M: 2_
1_
NS 156 M: 2_
1_

Cooling system
Thermostat opens at: 83_ C
Min. thermostat opening of 8.0 mm at: 95_ C
Cooling system test pressure: 0.5 – 0.7 bar

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Technical data

3.4 VALVES AND TIMING

Valve overview

A = exhaust valve
B = inlet valve

Valve clearance
Inlet valve (warm and cold): 0.45 mm
Exhaust valve (warm and cold): 0.45 mm

Valve timing diagram with valve clearance of 0.4 mm

Inlet valve opens: 20_ before TDC
Inlet valve closes: 40_ after BDC
Exhaust valve opens: 58_ before BDC
Exhaust valve closes: 26_ after TDC

Valve timing diagram with valve clearance of 1.0 mm clearance

(Timing gear setting check)
Inlet valve opens: 0_ before TDC
Inlet valve closes: 16_ after BDC
Exhaust valve opens: 42_ before BDC
Exhaust valve closes: 2_ after TDC

Number of teeth, timing gears

– crankshaft gear: 23
– idler gear: 49
– camshaft gear: 46
– fuel pump gear: 46
– compressor gear: 21
– oil pump gear: 50

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Technical data

3.5 OVERHAUL DATA

Flywheel/flywheel ring gear

Axial run–out, measured 140 mm
from the centre: max. 0.10 mm

Flywheel housing
Eccentricity in relation to crankshaft: max. 0.20 mm

Cylinder head
Pressure–testing pressure (air pressure): 1.5 bar
Minimum height
after refacing (dimension A): 104.3 mm
Roughness: 0.4 – 1.6
m

Inlet valve seats

See opposite drawing.

Exhaust valve seats

Seat angle: 30_
Inside diameter: 34.90 – 35.10 mm
Outside diameter: 44.097 – 44.113 mm
Thickness: 6.075 – 6.125 mm
Dimension A: 39.00 – 39.20 mm
Cylinder head recess:
– depth: 8.4 – 8.6 mm
– diameter: 44.00 – 44.025 mm

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Technical data

Inlet valves
Valve head diameter: 43.84 – 44.10 mm
Seat angle: 29_15’ – 29_45’
Max. area of valve head/
valve seat contact (dimension A): 2.2 mm
Valve head to cylinder head
clearance (dimension B): 0.60 – 1.00 mm
Valve stem diameter: 9.94 – 9.95 mm

Exhaust valves
Valve head diameter: 39.84 – 40.10 mm
Seat angle: 29_15’ – 29_45’
Max. area of valve head/
valve seat contact (dimension A): 2.2 mm
Valve head to cylinder head
clearance (dimension B): 0.95 – 1.35 mm
Valve stem diameter: 9.94 – 9.95 mm

Valve guides
Overall length: 68.0 mm
Inside diameter: 10.014 – 10.026 mm
Outside diameter: 16.026 – 16.044 mm
Projection of valve guide above
cylinder head (dimension A): 10.3 – 11.1 mm

Valve springs
Spring length outer spring:
– unloaded: 56.0 mm
– loaded with 291 N: 42.0 mm
– loaded with 510 N: 31.5 mm
– loaded with 556 N: 29.5 mm
Diameter of outer spring: 22.4 – 0.4 mm
Spring length inner spring:
– unloaded: 52.3 mm
– loaded with 117 N: 38.0 mm
– loaded with 215 N: 27.5 mm
– loaded with 229 N: 26.0 mm
Diameter of inner spring: 16.4 + 0.4 mm

Tappets
Outside diameter: 33.28 – 33.29 mm
Clearance in cylinder block: 0.04 – 0.08 mm

Rocker shaft and rocker

Rocker shaft diameter: 22.193 – 22.206 mm
Inside diameter of rocker bush to be reamed to: 22.213 – 22.234 mm
Bore diameter of oil passage: 1.5 mm

24
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Technical data

Cylinder block
Min. dimension after refacing (dimension A): 323.35 mm
Roughness: 0.4 – 1.6
m
Depth of recess for cylinder liner flange: 8.000 – 8.040 mm
Cylinder liner bore
– standard: 108.99 – 109.01 mm
– oversize: 109.24 – 109.26 mm
Bore, main bearing shells: 84.200 – 84.220 mm
Bore, camshaft bearings: 59.68 – 59.71 mm
Bore, tappets: 33.33 – 33.35 mm
Pressure–testing pressure: 1.5 bar

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Technical data

Cylinder liners
Outside diameter of cylinder liners
– standard: 109.00 – 109.02 mm
– oversize: 109.25 – 109.27 mm
Inside diameter of
cylinder liners when fitted: 104.160 – 104.230 mm
Projection of liner above cylinder block: 0.04 – 0.10 mm

Crankshaft

Max. run–out between two adjacent

journals (total clock reading): 0.08 mm
Maximum clock reading of centre
main bearing, with front and rear main
bearing journals supported: 0.20 mm

Flange diameter of rear end oil seal (C): 109.08 – 110.02 mm

Diameter of main bearing journals (A)

Code number 0: standard diameter: 79.98 – 80.02 mm
Code number 1: 1st undersize: 79.73 – 79.77 mm
Code number 2: 2nd undersize: 79.48 – 79.52 mm
Code number 3: 3rd undersize: 79.23 – 79.27 mm

Other data on main bearing journals

Width of 1st bearing journal: 46.87 – 47.13 mm
Width of 2nd, 3rd, 5th and 6th bearing journals: 35.43 – 35.68 mm
Width of 4th bearing journal (standard): 49.53 – 49.58 mm
Width of 4th bearing journal (oversize): 49.78 – 49.83 mm
Width of 7th bearing journal: 49.46 – 49.66 mm
Fillet radius: 3.55 – 4.05 mm

Diameter of crankpins (B)

Code number 0: standard diameter: 63.98 – 64.02 mm
Code number 1: 1st undersize: 63.72 – 63.77 mm
Code number 2: 2nd undersize: 63.48 – 63.52 mm
Code number 3: 3rd undersize: 63.23 – 63.27 mm

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Technical data

Other data on crankpins

Width: 39.96 – 40.04 mm
Fillet radius: 3.55 – 4.05 mm
Crankshaft end play: 0.06 – 0.32 mm
Thrust washer thickness: 2.31 – 2.36 mm
Thrust washer oversize: 2.44 – 2.49 mm

Main bearing shells

Inside diameter when fitted: 80.07 – 80.12 mm
Undersizes: 3 x 0.25 mm

Connecting rods
Big end initial bore diameter: 67.618 – 67.630 mm
Centre to centre distance, big end/small end: 224.74 – 224.80 mm
Small end bush diameter to be reamed to: 42.028 – 42.036 mm

Big–end bearing shells

Inside diameter when fitted: 64.072 – 64.084 mm
Bearing clearance: 0.064 – 0.092 mm
Undersizes: 3 x 0.25 mm

Pistons
Groove width
– top ring: trapezoidal
– 2nd compression ring: 2.57 – 2.59 mm
– oil scraper ring: 4.03 – 4.05 mm
Thickness of piston rings
– 2nd compression ring: 2.48 – 2.49 mm
– oil scraper ring: 3.98 – 3.99 mm
Slot opening
– compression rings: 0.30 – 0.50 mm
– oil scraper ring: 0.30 – 0.55 mm
Bore for gudgeon pin: 42.003 – 42.009 mm

Gudgeon pin
Gudgeon pin diameter: 41.995 – 42.000 mm
Clearance in small end bush: max. 0.063 mm

Camshaft
Camshaft end play: 0.06 – 0.22 mm
Bearing journal diameter: 59.55 – 59.58 mm
Dimension from nose to back of cam
– inlet valve cam (dimension A): 50.69 – 51.53 mm
– exhaust valve cam (dimension A): 50.70 – 51.54 mm
Tappet lift
– inlet valve tappet: 8.089 – 8.129 mm
– exhaust valve tappet: 8.099 – 8.139 mm

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Technical data

Backlash, timing gears

Idler gear to camshaft gear: 0.02 – 0.20 mm
Idler gear to crankshaft gear: 0.02 – 0.18 mm
Idler gear to fuel pump gear: 0.02 – 0.24 mm
Crankshaft gear to oil pump gear: 0.02 – 0.18 mm

Idler gear play

Idler gear end play: 0.07 – 0.22 mm

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Technical data

3.6 MEASURING OF WEAR

9506 29
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Technical data

30
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Built–on components

4. BUILT–ON COMPONENTS
4.1 REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF GLOW PLUGS

1. Remove the wiring and connection strip

from the glow plugs.

2. Remove the glow plugs.

3. Check the ceramic insulators of the glow

plugs for damage. If any of the insulators is
no longer intact, the inlet manifold must be
checked for the missing pieces of the
insulator.

4. Fit the glow plugs.

5. Connect the wiring and the connection strip,

in accordance with the drawing.

6. If necessary, clean the contact surface of

the earth lead, to ensure a sound earth
connection.

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Built–on components

4.2 REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF INLET MANIFOLD

1. Disconnect the wiring for the glow plugs.

2. Remove the air compressor suction pipe.

3. Remove the bracket between the air duct

on the top of the engine and the inlet
manifold.

4. Mark the position of the shouldered studs.

Remove the attachment bolts and the
shouldered studs from the inlet manifold.

5. Remove the inlet manifold.

6. Remove any remaining gasket pieces.

7. Reconnect the inlet manifold, using new 1. Nut

gaskets. Tighten the attachment bolts, to 2. Insulator
the specified torque. 3. Ring
4. Glow plug
8. Installation of the remaining parts is a 5. Inlet manifold
reversal of removal. 6. Shouldered stud
7. Wavy washer
8. Bolt
9. Gasket

32
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Built–on components

4.3 REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF TURBOCHARGER

Removal

1. Air duct to charge cooler 14. Turbocharger

2. Bolt 15. Gasket
3. Wavy washer 16. Air duct from air cleaner
4. Bracket 17. Flexible pipe clip
5. Bracket 18. Flexible connection pipe
6. Wavy washer 19. Gasket
7. Bolt 20. Oil return pipe
8. Flexible connection pipe 21. Bolt
9. Flexible pipe clip 22. Washer
10. Oil supply pipe 23. Heat shield
11. Gasket 24. Bracket
12. Nut 25. Wavy washer
13. Spacer 26. Bolt

1. Remove the turbocharger heat shield. 4. Remove the attachment bolts from the air
duct to the charge cooler.
2. Remove the attachment bolts from the air
duct fitted over the engine. 5. Disconnect the air pipe to the boost control
unit on the air duct.
3. Remove the flexible connection pipe
between the air duct and the turbocharger. 6. Remove the flexible connection pipe
Plug any openings. between the compression side of the
turbocharger and the air duct to the charge
cooler. Plug any openings.

9506 33
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Built–on components

7. Remove the oil supply and return pipes

from the turbocharger, and plug the
openings.

8. Remove the exhaust pipe from the

turbocharger.

9. Remove the attachment nuts from the

turbocharger.

10. Take the turbocharger from the exhaust

manifold. Be careful, oil may escape from
the turbocharger.

11. Remove the gaskets.

Installation
1. Before fitting, check that the turbocharger:
– runs smoothly
– does not drag
– has a little radial play

2. Clean the sealing faces.

3. Replace all gaskets.

4. Apply a film of Copaslip to all exhaust

manifold and turbocharger studs.

5. Connect the turbocharger to the exhaust

manifold, using a new gasket. Always use
the original nuts and spacers. Tighten the
nuts to the specified torque.

6. Attach the exhaust pipe, using a new

gasket. Always use the original nuts and
spacers. Tighten the nuts to the specified
torque.

7. Attach the oil return pipe to the underside of

the turbocharger, using a new gasket.
Remember the heat shield bracket, which is
also fixed with the attachment bolts.

34
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Built–on components

8. If the oil return pipe cannot be attached free

from stress, the bolts on the clamping
plates of the turbine housing (A in the
drawing) must be loosened, and the
turbocharger turbine housing rotated to the
correct position. Tighten the clamping plate
bolts to the specified torque.

9. Spray clean engine oil into the oil supply

port of the turbocharger, and reconnect the
oil supply pipe, using a new gasket.
Remember the heat shield bracket, which is
also fixed with the attachment bolts.

10. Attach the flexible connection pipes.

If the air duct to the charge cooler will not
connect with the turbocharger, the
turbocharger compressor housing must be
rotated. First loosen the clamping plate
attachment bolts (B in the drawing) on the
compressor housing, and rotate the
compressor housing to the correct position.
Tighten the clamping plate bolts to the
specified torque.

11. Attach the air pipe to the boost control unit,

using new sealing rings.

12. Fit the heat shield.

13. Before starting the engine, apply the

exhaust brake, and crank the engine using
the starter motor, until the oil pressure
warning lamp is extinguished. The engine
can now be started.

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Built–on components

4.4 REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF EXHAUST MANIFOLD

Removal
1. Before removing the exhaust manifold,
check for any evidence of leakage between
the connection flanges. A leak will be
indicated by “soot trails” close to the flange
in question. If a leak has occurred, both the
contact surface of the cylinder head and of
the manifold must be carefully checked for
damage.

2. Remove the air duct fitted over the engine.

3. Depending on the reason for removing the

exhaust manifold, the turbocharger may
either be left attached to the exhaust
manifold, or must be removed.
Even if the turbocharger is not removed 1. Stud
from the exhaust manifold, all pipes must 2. Gasket
be removed from the turbocharger. See 3. Exhaust manifold, front section
“Removal and installation of turbocharger”. 4. Sealing ring
5. Exhaust manifold, rear section
4. Remove the injector pipes. See “Removal 6. Stud
and installation of injector pipes”. 7. Spacer
8. Nut
5. Remove the heat shields from the exhaust 9. Heat shield
manifold. 10. Ring
11. Wavy washer
6. Remove the attachment nuts with the 12. Bolt
spacers, and remove the complete exhaust 13. Heat shield
manifold.

7. Remove the gaskets.

8. If necessary using a pulling and twisting

movement, separate the two sections of the
exhaust manifold from one another.

9. Remove the sealing rings, and clean the

groove.

10. Clean all sealing faces.

36
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Built–on components

Installation
1. Insert the two new sealing rings with the
slot openings opposite one another.

2. Apply Copaslip to the sealing faces of the

exhaust manifold sections, and slide the
two manifold sections together.

3. Connect the complete exhaust manifold,

using new gaskets.

4. Apply Copaslip to the studs, and fit the

spacers and attachment nuts.

5. Tighten the attachment nuts to the specified

torque.

6. If removed, reconnect the turbocharger to

the exhaust manifold. See “Removal and
installation of turbocharger”.

7. Attach the pipes to the turbocharger. See

“Removal and installation of turbocharger”.

8. Fit the heat shields.

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Built–on components

4.5 REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF AIR COMPRESSOR

Removal
1. For a coolant–cooled air compressor,
disconnect the coolant pipes.

2. Disconnect the lubricating oil pipe and

collect any escaping oil. Plug the openings.

3. Disconnect the air suction pipe from the air

compressor.

4. Remove the compressed air supply pipe. To

do this, disconnect the pipe connection at
the rear of the air compressor. When
removing a coolant–cooled air compressor,
leave the first section of the pipe connected
to the air compressor.
1. Air compressor
5. Disconnect the steering pump from the air 2. Coolant return pipe
compressor. See “Removal and installation 3. Compressed air supply pipe
of steering pump”. 4. Coolant supply pipe
5. Air suction pipe
6. Remove the pipe bracket from the air 6. Steering pump
compressor. 7. Lubricating oil pipe
7. Remove the four attachment bolts and
remove the air compressor from the timing
case.

Installation
1. If applicable, connect the drive gear to the
air compressor to be fitted. Tighten the gear
attachment nut to the specified torque.

2. Before fitting the air compressor, check the

compressed air supply pipe for carbon
deposits. If necessary, replace.

3. In the case of a new air–cooled air

compressor, connect the connection for the
compressed air supply pipe, fitted with new
sealing rings, onto the air compressor to be
installed.

4. Replace the O–ring on the compressor

flange, and grease lightly.

38
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Built–on components

5. Clean the attachment bolts and apply

Loctite 243.

6. Position the air compressor on the timing

case, and tighten the attachment bolts (in a
crosswise sequence) until the compressor
is in full contact with the timing case. Then
tighten the bolts to the specified torque.

7. Reconnect the removed pipes, if necessary

with new sealing rings, in reverse order to
removal.

8. Connect the steering pump. See “Removal

and installation of steering pump”.

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Built–on components

4.6 REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF STEERING PUMP

Removal

Note:
Depending on the reason for which the steering
pump must be removed, the steering oil pipes
must either be removed from the steering pump,
or may remain attached. In the latter case, the
pump with steering oil pipes should be hung to
one side.

1. Clean the steering pump and its

surrounding area.

2. If the steering oil pipes must be removed

from the steering pump, collect any
escaping steering oil.
1. Bolt
3. Immediately plug the openings in pump and 2. Wavy washer
pipes, to prevent any dirt from entering the 3. Steering pump
system. The steering oil filter is fitted in the 4. O–ring
return pipe, which means that should any 5. Coupling disc
dirt enter, it will immediately also enter the
steering system.

4. Remove the two attachment bolts and

disconnect the steering pump from the air
compressor.

5. Remove the coupling disc from the air

compressor half of the coupling.

Installation
1. Check that the two halves of the coupling in
the steering pump and the air compressor
are not damaged.
Check that the coupling disc is not
indented. If in doubt, replace.

2. Fit a new O–ring to the pump, and grease

lightly.

3. As necessary, crank the engine until the air

compressor half of the coupling is
horizontal.
Apply a little grease to the coupling disc, so
that it will remain centred in relation to this
half of the coupling.
Insert the coupling disc into the air
compressor half of the coupling.

40
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Built–on components

4. Fit the steering pump to the air compressor.

Ensure that the steering pump half of the
coupling is correctly positioned in relation to
the coupling disc.

5. Position the attachment bolts, and tighten

them to the specified torque.

6. If the steering oil pipes were removed,

reconnect them.

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Built–on components

4.7 REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF STARTER MOTOR

1. When working on an engine which is fitted

in the vehicle, check that the battery earth
lead is disconnected.

2. Mark the wire connections on the starter

motor, and remove the wiring.

3. Remove the three attachment nuts, and

take the starter motor from the flywheel
housing.

4. Check the starter motor pinion and flywheel

ring gear for damage.

5. Clean the contact surfaces of starter motor

and flywheel housing.

6. Place the starter motor in the flywheel

housing.

7. Clean the stud threads, apply Loctite 243

and tighten the attachment nuts to the
specified torque.

8. Connect the wiring, and check that the

earth lead on the starter motor makes a
good contact with the chassis.

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Built–on components

4.8 REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF ALTERNATOR

1. When working on an engine which is fitted

in the vehicle, check that the battery earth
lead is disconnected.

2. Mark the wire connections on the alternator

and disconnect the wires.

3. Loosen the attachment bolts of the

alternator and of the tensioner.

4. Remove the V–belts from the pulley.

5. Remove the attachment bolts, and the

alternator.

6. If applicable, connect the pulley to the

alternator to be fitted. The attachment nut
on the pulley should be tightened to the
specified torque.

7. Installation is a reversal of removal.

8. Adjust the V–belt tension. See “Checking

and adjusting V–belt tension”.

1. Adjusting strip
2. Washer
3. Bolt
4. Nut
5. Wavy washer
6. Washer
7. Bolt
8. Alternator
9. Key
10. Pulley
11. Wavy washer
12. Nut
13. Nut
14. Bracket
15. Bolt

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Built–on components

4.9 REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF V–BELTS

1. Loosen attachment bolts 1 of the alternator

and bolt 2 of the tensioner.

2. Tilt the alternator until it is as close as

possible to the cylinder block.

3. Remove attachment bolt 3 from the air

guide ring.

4. Cut through the old V–belts and remove

them.

5. Inspect the pulleys for damage, rust and

greasy deposits.

Note:
Always replace a V–belt with another V–belt of
the same design. Always simultaneously replace
both belts.

6. Push the fan guide ring towards the fan,

and draw the new V–belts between the air
guide ring and the fan.

7. Tighten attachment bolt 3 of the air guide

ring.

8. Lay the V–belts over the pulleys, and adjust

the V–belt tension. See “Checking and
adjusting V–belt tension”.

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Built–on components

4.10 CHECKING AND ADJUSTING V–BELT TENSION

V–belt tension
The durability of the V–belt depends on the
V–belt tension. Because of the high torques
transmitted by the V–belts, it is important that
the V–belts should be accurately set to the
correct pre–tensions. For a correct setting of the
V–belt tension, the use of the “Krikit” belt
tension gauge is essential.

Checking the V–belt tension

The V–belt tension should be checked with a
belt tension gauge. The advantage of this
method is a more accurate pre–tension reading
and, consequently, a longer service life of the
V–belt.

On DAF engines, two types of V–belt are used,

either the single V–belt (in general two single
belts are used) and the twin belt, i.e. a double
V–belt.

Note:
Replacing two single V–belts by one twin belt is
not permitted, because the pulleys are not
adjusted to take a twin belt.

The V–belt tension gauges used for single

V–belts and twin belts are different:
– “Krikit I” belt tension gauge
(DAF no. 1240442) for single belt versions
– “Krikit II” belt tension gauge
(DAF no. 1240443) for twin belt versions
The “Krikit II” has a wider belt bearing surface
than the “Krikit I”.

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Built–on components

Checking with the “KRIKIT” belt tension

gauge
1. Set the gauge to zero by depressing
measuring arm 1.

2. Place the gauge on the V–belt, halfway

between the alternator and crankshaft
pulleys.

3. Slowly depress the belt using the gauge,

until a click is heard. Carefully remove the
gauge.

4. Take the reading as indicated by the

position of the measuring arm in relation to
the scale. Compare the reading with the
recommended pre–tension.

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Built–on components

Belt tension of 12.5 mm V–belts in newton (N)

Twin belts Single V–belts
Covered* Raw edge** Covered* Raw edge**
New
V–belt
Setting 900 1200 500 600
tension
Test w600 w800 w300 w400
tension
Run–in
V–belt
Minimum 400 500 200 250
tension
Adjusting 450 700 250 350
tension

* Covered belts can, on close inspection, be

recognised by the presence of textile fabric
in the rubber on the inside of the V–belt and
all along the sides.
Version: non–toothed belt.

** Raw edge belts can be recognised by the

absence of textile fabric on the inside and
on the lower parts of the sides (polished
sides).
Version: either a toothed or a non–toothed
belt.

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Built–on components

New V–belts
– After fitting the new belt, set the
pre–tension to the “setting tension”.
– After a trial run, check whether the
pre–tension complies with the “test
tension”.
– If the tension reading is lower than the “test
tension” specified in the table, set the
V–belt to the minimum “test tension”.

Run–in V–belts
– If whilst checking the belt tension, the
tension falls below the “minimum tension”,
the belt must be set to the “adjusting
tension”.

Adjusting V–belt tension

1. Loosen alternator attachment bolts 1.

2. Loosen bolt 2 of the tensioner.

3. Shift the alternator until the correct V–belt

tension is reached.

4. Tighten bolt 2 of the tensioner, and

attachment bolts 1 of the alternator.

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Cylinder head

5. CYLINDER HEAD
5.1 COMPONENT DRAWING

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Cylinder head

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Cylinder head

1. Bolt
2. Washer
3. Sealing ring
4. Filler cap
5. Valve cover
6. Gasket
7. Bolt
8. Washer
9. Rocker shaft locking bolt
10. Washer
11. Adapter nipple
12. Circlip
13. Ring
14. Spring
15. Ring
16. Rocker shaft
17. Rocker shaft bracket
18. Plug
19. Spring
20. Lock nut
21. Adjusting screw
22. Rocker
23. Bearing bush
24. Valve cone
25. Spring retainer
26. Outer spring
27. Inner spring
28. Spring retainer
29. Exhaust valve
30. Inlet valve
31. Pushrod
32. Tappet bush
33. Cylinder head bolt
34. Cylinder head bolt
35. Sealing plug
36. Valve guide
37. Injector sleeve
38. Sealing plug
39. Sealing ring
40. Expansion plug
41. Cylinder head
42. Expansion plug
43. Expansion plug
44. Expansion plug
45. Outlet valve seat
46. Cylinder head gasket

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Cylinder head

5.2 REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF CYLINDER HEAD

Note:
Depending on the reason for which the cylinder
head must be removed, the inlet and exhaust
manifolds and the thermostat housing with the
coolant pump need not be removed.

Removal
1. Remove the flexible pipes from the
thermostat housing and the coolant pump.

2. Remove the coolant pipe at the rear of the

cylinder head.

3. Disconnect the wiring from the glow plugs.

4. Remove the wiring from the coolant

temperature sensor.

5. Remove the attachments from the various

electrical wires to the parts to be removed.

6. Remove the bracket for the fuel return

pipes on the thermostat housing.

7. Remove the V–belts. See “Removal and

installation of V–belts”.

8. Remove the thermostat housing with the

coolant pump. See “Removal and
installation of thermostat and thermostat
housing”.

9. Remove the air duct fitted over the valve

cover.

10. Remove the inlet manifold. See “Removal

and installation of inlet manifold”.

11. Remove all turbocharger pipes.

12. Remove the injector pipes. See “Removal

and installation of injector pipes”.

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Cylinder head

13. Remove the exhaust manifold with the

turbocharger. See “Removal and installation
of exhaust manifold”.

14. Remove the leak–off pipe from the

injectors.

15. Remove the injectors. See “Removal and

installation of injectors”.

16. Remove the valve cover.

17. Remove the rocker shaft. See “Removal

and installation of valve gear”.

18. Remove the pushrods. See “Removal and

installation of valve gear”.

19. Remove the cylinder head bolts.

20. Remove the cylinder head.

21. Remove the centring bushes from the

cylinder block.

22. Remove any remaining gasket pieces from

the cylinder head and the cylinder block.
Ensure that no gasket waste falls into the
engine.

Checking
1. Check that the sealing plugs in the cylinder
head are not leaking, possibly
pressure–test the cylinder head. See
“Pressure–testing the cylinder head”.

2. Check the cylinder head for damage in the

sealing faces, and for possible cracks. If
necessary, have the cylinder head
re–faced. See “Re–facing the cylinder
head”.

3. Check the sealing faces of the cylinder

block.

4. Check whether the projection of the cylinder

liners above the cylinder block is within the
tolerance limits. See “Measuring and
correcting cylinder liner height”.

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Cylinder head

Installation
1. Clean the tapped holes in the cylinder
block, for the cylinder head bolts.

2. Fit the two centring bushes in the cylinder

block.

3. Screw the two guide pins (special tool

DAF no. 0694912) into the outer tapped
holes of the cylinder block.

Note:
Always replace the cylinder head gasket.

4. Check the new cylinder head gasket for

damage. Place the new, dry cylinder head
gasket in position, making sure that the
word “Top” is at the top (see opposite
drawing).

5. Fit the cylinder head. M2 00 123

Note:
– The M16 cylinder head bolts may be used a
maximum of three times. After they have
been tightened, the bolts should be marked
using a centre punch, to indicate how often
they have been used.
– New bolts should not be marked, on the
first fitting.
– Bolts that already carry two centre punch
marks should not be re–used, and must be
replaced with new bolts.
– The M10 bolts need not be replaced after
three uses.

6. Before fitting used bolts, clean the thread,

and check for damage. If in doubt, replace.

7. For M16 bolts, apply a drop of oil to the

contact surface of the bolt head, apply
Loctite 243 to the thread, and insert the
bolts.

8. For M10 bolts, apply Loctite 572 sealant to

the thread, and insert the bolts.

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Cylinder head

9. Remove the two guide pins, and replace 10. Tighten the cylinder head bolts as follows:
them with two cylinder head bolts.

M2 00 124

– 1st stage: Tighten the M16 bolts

(bolts 1 to 20) in the
sequence shown to a
torque of 50 Nm.
– 2nd stage: Tighten the M16 bolts
(bolts 1 to 20) in the
sequence shown to a
torque of 150 Nm.
– 3rd stage: Tighten the M10 bolts
(bolts 21 to 27) in one go
and in the sequence
shown to a torque of
50 Nm.
– 4th stage: Put a clear straight line on
the bolt head of all the
M16 bolts (bolts 1 to 20).
Ensure that all lines run
parallel.
Turn all M16 bolts through
60_ in the sequence
shown.
Check that all lines on the
bolt heads are parallel.
– 5th stage: Once again, turn all M16
bolts through 60_, in the
sequence shown.
Check that all lines on the
bolt heads are parallel.

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Cylinder head

11. If the cylinder head bolts have already been

used, mark each bolt head using a centre
punch.

12. The installation of the other parts removed

is a reversal of the removal. Always use
new gaskets (and rings).
Consult the paragraphs in the “Removal”
section, and tighten the connections to the
specified torques.

Note:
Ensure that the adjusting screws for the valve
rockers have not been screwed down too tightly,
such that the valve is opened too far.
When tightening the rocker shaft, the valve
could then come into contact with the piston.

13. If applicable, connect the coolant pipe

coupling to the cylinder head, using
Loctite 243.

14. Adjust the valve clearance. See “Checking

and adjusting valve clearance”.

Note:
With the type of cylinder head gasket used on
the NS engine, the cylinder head bolts do not
require retorqueing.

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Cylinder head

5.3 PRESSURE–TESTING THE CYLINDER HEAD

1. Remove the cylinder head. See “Removal

and installation of cylinder head”.

2. Plug the coolant passages with blanking

plates, fitted with gaskets.
These blanking plates can be made in the
workshop.
One of the blanking plates must have a
connection for a flexible air pipe.

3. Connect a flexible air pipe to the blanking

plate which has the connection required.

4. Immerse the cylinder head in warm water

and supply an air pressure of 1.5 bar.
Leave the cylinder head in the container
with warm water, for about half an hour.

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Cylinder head

5.4 REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF INJECTOR SLEEVES

Removal
1. Remove the injector pipes. See “Removal
and installation of injector pipes”.

2. Remove the injector. See “Removal and

installation of injectors”.

3. The injector sleeve should be removed

using the injector sleeve puller, special tool
DAF no.: 0694930, in combination with the
slide hammer, special tool
DAF no.: 0694928.

4. Tap the injector sleeve with M24 x 1.5

screw thread.
Seal the injector nozzle hole, and grease
the tap to retain as many of the steel
cuttings as possible.

5. Screw injector sleeve puller B into the

injector sleeve.

6. Attach slide hammer A to puller B. Use the

slide hammer to remove the injector sleeve
from the cylinder head.

7. Thoroughly clean the opening and

blow–clean the cylinder head and contact
faces.

Note:
Make sure no harm is caused by metal cuttings
that may be blown away.

Installation
1. Apply a little oil to the sealing faces of the
new injector sleeve.

2. Tap the new injector sleeve carefully into

the cylinder head, using the installer,
special tool DAF no.: 1240077. Tap the new
injector sleeve so far into the cylinder head
that the installer makes contact. The
injector sleeve is then at the correct depth
in the cylinder head.

3. Following installation of a new injector

sleeve, you are advised to pressure–test
the cylinder head.

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Cylinder head

4. Connect the injector. See “Removal and

installation of injectors”.

5. Connect the injector pipes. See “Removal

and installation of injector pipes”.

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Cylinder head

5.5 REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF VALVE GEAR

Removal
1. Remove the air duct fitted over the valve
cover, and remove the valve cover.

2. Loosen the adjusting screws for the

rockers, as far as possible.

3. Remove the attachment bolts for the rocker

shaft brackets, and remove the rocker
shaft.

4. Remove the rocker shaft locking bolts from

the rocker shaft brackets.

5. Remove the circlip from the rocker shaft

and remove the rings, springs and rockers
from the rocker shaft.

6. Withdraw the pushrods from the cylinder

block. Ensure when withdrawing the rods
that the tappet bushes do not remain stuck
to the rods.
This can be prevented by moving the
pushrods backwards and forwards.

7. Remove the side covers on the right–hand

side of the engine.

8. Take the tappet bushes out. Mark the

position of the tappet bush in the cylinder
block.

Checking
1. Check the tappet bushes for pitting and
wear on the contact surface with the cam,
and for scoring on the side.

2. Check the pushrods for pitting, indented

contact surfaces and straightness.

3. Check the rocker shaft for scoring. Ensure

that the oil passages are open and that the
plugs in the ends of the rocker shaft are
well sealed.

4. Check the rocker arm bushes and the

rocker head for damage and wear. There
should be no indentation in the contact
surface of the rocker head.

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Cylinder head

Installation
1. Apply oil to the tappet bushes and return
them to their original positions.

2. Check that the tappet bushes move easily,

without excessive clearance.

3. Apply new gaskets to the side covers, and

attach the covers with the brackets and
guide brackets fitted to the covers.

4. Fit the pushrods.

5. If necessary, fit a new bearing bush into the

rocker.
When inserting the bearing bush, make
sure that the bearing bush joint (A in the
opposite drawing) is not in line with the oil
passage in the rocker.
Bore through the oil passage.
Ream the bearing bush to the specified
size.

1. Circlip 5. Rocker
2. Ring 6. Rocker shaft bracket
3. Spring 7. Spring
4. Ring

6. Fit the parts to the rocker shaft in the

correct order (see drawing above). At the
ends of the rocker shaft, fit new circlips 1,
and apply oil to the complete unit.

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Cylinder head

7. Rotate the rocker shaft, ensuring that the

notches on the shaft are located on the
same side as the locking bolts of the rocker
shaft.
Check that the oil bores for the rocker shaft
are in line with the oil bores of the rocker
shaft brackets and rockers.

8. Apply Loctite 243 to the locking bolts, and

screw them into the rocker shaft brackets.

9. Fit the rocker shaft to the cylinder head.

Note:
Ensure that the adjusting screws for the valve
rockers are not turned too far.
If this is the case, the valve may open too far,
and the valve may come into contact with the
piston, during the tightening of the rocker shaft.

10. Tighten the attachment bolts of the rocker

shaft brackets to the specified torque.

11. Tighten the locking bolts of the rocker shaft.

12. Adjust the valve clearance. See “Checking

and adjusting the valve clearance”.

13. Fit the valve cover using a new gasket.

14. Fit the air duct.

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Cylinder head

5.6 REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF VALVES

WARNING

When removing and installing valve springs,

compress the springs carefully, to ensure
that they cannot be released. A suddenly
released spring may cause severe injury.

Removal
1. Remove the cylinder head from the cylinder
block. See “Removal and installation of
cylinder head”.

2. Support the valve and press the valve

springs safely together, so that the two
valve cones can be removed.

3. Release the valve springs carefully, and

remove the valve spring retainers and valve
springs from the valve stem.
Mark the position of the valve springs and
valve spring retainers in the cylinder head,
so that when reinstalled, these parts are
returned to the same position.

4. Remove the valve from the cylinder head.

Mark the position of the valve in the cylinder
head, so that when reinstalled, it is returned
to the same position.

Checking
1. Measure dimensions A and B (see opposite
drawing) and ensure that they have not
exceeded the maximum values.

2. Inspect the valve head carefully, and check

the dimensions. The valves may be ground
down, if the dimensions allow this.

3. Check the valve stem for straightness and

scoring.

4. Check and if necessary replace the valve

guide.

5. Check the valve springs for spring force,

wear and dimensions. If in doubt, replace.

6. Check the valve seat. If the valve seat must

be replaced, the valve in question should
also be replaced.

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Cylinder head

Installation
1. If necessary, grind the valve to a correct fit
with the seat.
Following grinding, carefully clean the valve
and cylinder head.
If both valve and valve seat are replaced,
they need not be ground to match one
another.
If only the valve has been replaced, it must
be ground to match the seat.

2. Oil the valve stem and insert the valve in

the valve guide. Check the fit.

3. Insert the lower valve spring retainer.

4. Install the inner and outer springs, with the

upper valve spring retainer.

5. Support the valve and press the valve

springs safely together, so that the two
valve cones can be inserted.

6. Release the valve springs carefully, and

check that the valve cones are correctly
fitted.

7. Install the cylinder head on the cylinder

block. See “Removal and installation of
cylinder head”.

8. Adjust the valve clearance. See “Checking

and adjusting valve clearance”.

9. Make a test run, or submit the engine to a

running test under load.

10. After the test run, or running test, once

again check and if necessary re–adjust the
valve clearance.

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Cylinder head

5.7 CHECKING AND ADJUSTING THE VALVE CLEARANCE

Checking/correcting the valve clearance can be

done when the engine is warm or cold.
Adjusting the valve clearance must be done
when the engine is NOT running.

1. Remove the air duct fitted over the valve

cover.

2. Remove the valve cover.

3. Check whether the fuel pump is in the “stop

position”; if necessary, lock the fuel pump in
the “stop position”.

4. Crank the crankshaft clockwise, as seen

from the timing gear end (this is the normal
direction of rotation of the engine) until the
valves of the 6th cylinder are in overlap
position (i.e. the moment at which the inlet
valve starts opening and the exhaust valve
is completing the closing). The piston of the
1st cylinder will now be at the TDC on the
compression stroke.

5. Check/correct the valve clearance of the 1st

cylinder. Set the valve to the correct
clearance by slackening lock nut 1 and
turning adjusting screw 2 in the correct
direction.

6. Following adjustment, tighten lock nut 1 to

the specified torque, and once again check
the valve clearance.

7. Crank the crankshaft one third of a turn and

check the valve clearance of the 5th
cylinder. When the valves of this cylinder
have been set, crank the crankshaft again
one third of a turn, etc. In this way, the
valves of the six cylinders can be set in
accordance with the firing order
(1–5–3–6–2–4).

Cylinder with Cylinder of which the

valves in overlap valves are to be
position: reset:
6 .......................... 1
2 .......................... 5
4 .......................... 3
1 .......................... 6
5 .......................... 2
3 .......................... 4

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Cylinder head

8. Clean the valve covers and replace the

valve cover gasket. Replace the valve
cover.

9. Check the rubber seals of the valve cover,

and fit the attachment bolts. Tighten the
attachment bolts to the specified torque, to
prevent damage to the rubber seals.

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Cylinder head

5.8 MACHINING THE CYLINDER HEAD

Refacing the cylinder head

1. When machining the cylinder head, ensure
that the height (A in the opposite drawing)
of the cylinder head does not become less
than the dimension specified.

2. After the machined surface has been

cleaned, the distance between the valve
head (dimension B) and the cylinder head
surface should be checked and, if
necessary, corrected by machining the
valve seat or the valve seat recess.

Valve seats
– Only the exhaust valves have pressed–in
valve seats. Inserts are available for
overhaul purposes.
– A valve seat should be machined when the
contact surface between valve head and
seat (dimension A) has exceeded the
maximum permissible value. Note,
however, that dimension B, the distance
between valve head and cylinder head
surface, must remain within the specified
limits. If this is impossible, the valve seat
and/or valve must be replaced. For the
specified dimensions, see “Technical data”.

Removal and installation of valve seats

1. With a grinding stone, grind a groove into
the inside of the valve seat, behind which
an internal puller can be fitted.

2. Use an internal puller to remove the valve

seat from the cylinder head.

3. Clean the valve seat recess.

4. Press a new valve seat insert into the

recess, and check the fit.

5. Replace the valves.

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Removal and installation of valve guides

1. Remove the valve guide from the cylinder
head.

2. Apply a thin coat of oil to the new valve

guide.

3. Press the valve guide into the cylinder

head, ensuring that the side with the larger
chamfer projects above the cylinder head
(the contact surface of the valve springs).

4. Then check whether projection A (see

opposite drawing) is within the specified
tolerance limits.

Removal and installation of expansion plug

1. Carefully tap the edge of the expansion
plug, thus tilting the plug. Ensure that no
damage is caused.

2. Remove the plug with a pair of pliers.

3. Apply Loctite 270 to the new expansion

plug, and tap it into the cylinder head, using
a suitable driving tool.

4. Leave the Loctite to harden for 1 hour.

5. Pressure–test the cylinder head.

Removal and installation of sealing plug

1. Remove the sealing plug (located on the
top of the cylinder head) from the cylinder
head.

2. Thoroughly clean the thread.

3. Re–insert the sealing plug, using

Loctite 270.

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Flywheel and flywheel housing

6. FLYWHEEL AND FLYWHEEL HOUSING

6.1 COMPONENT DRAWING

1. Flywheel housing
2. Bolt
3. Washer
4. Dowel pin
5. Oil seal
6. Spacer ring
7. Adjustment plate
8. Circlip
9. Socket head screw
10. Flywheel
11. Flywheel ring gear
12. Dowel pin
13. Input shaft bearing
14. Bolt

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Flywheel and flywheel housing

6.2 REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF FLYWHEEL

1. Remove the flywheel attachment bolts.

2. Force the flywheel off the crankshaft by

evenly screwing in two (M10) dividing bolts.

3. Clean the crankshaft flange, the dowel pins

and the attachment bolts.

4. If the flywheel shows cracks in the

flywheel–to–clutch plate contact area,
provided that there are no cracks within
5 mm of the inner edge (see opposite
drawing), at most 2 mm may be ground off
the flywheel.

5. Degrease the flywheel–to–clutch plate

contact area.

6. Apply Loctite 243 to the attachment bolts.

Fit the flywheel and the attachment bolts.

7. Tighten the attachment bolts, in a crosswise

sequence, to the specified torque.

8. Check the flywheel for axial run–out. See

“Checking the flywheel for axial run–out”.

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Flywheel and flywheel housing

6.3 CHECKING THE FLYWHEEL FOR AXIAL RUN–OUT

1. Position the dial gauge on the edge of the

flywheel housing and crank the engine by
hand.

2. Check the axial run–out of the flywheel. The

stylus should be 140 mm from the centre.
The maximum permissible clock reading is
0.1 mm.

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Flywheel and flywheel housing

6.4 REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF FLYWHEEL RING GEAR

1. Remove the flywheel. See “Removal and

installation of flywheel”.

2. Remove the ring gear by tapping it from the

flywheel. If this is not possible, cut it
between two teeth, using a sharp chisel.

3. Clean the ring gear–to–flywheel contact

area, and the flywheel ring gear itself.
Ensure that the contact areas are
degreased.

4. Heat the new ring gear evenly to approx.

230_C (this may be done in an oven),
checking the temperature with thermal
probes.

5. Install the ring gear on the flywheel,

ensuring that the bevelled sides of the teeth
point towards the starter motor. The DAF
part number shown on the side of the ring
gear must be facing the clutch cover
assembly.

6. Tap the ring gear against the flange of the

flywheel. Ensure a good contact between
ring gear and flywheel, all round.

7. Refit the flywheel. See “Removal and

installation of flywheel”.

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Flywheel and flywheel housing

6.5 REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF FLYWHEEL HOUSING

Removal
1. Remove the flywheel. See “Removal and
installation of flywheel”.

2. Remove the starter motor. See “Removal

and installation of starter motor”.

3. Suspend the engine from the rear, in the

hoist.

4. Remove the oil sump to flywheel housing

attachment bolts.

5. Remove the flywheel housing attachment

bolts, and take off the flywheel housing.

6. Remove the oil seal from the flywheel

housing, by lightly tapping or forcing it from
the housing.

Installation
1. Remove any remaining gasket pieces from
the contact areas. Remove any traces of
old locking compound from the attachment
bolts.

2. Check the sealing faces for damage.

3. Check the flywheel housing for cracks.

4. Apply Loctite 510 locking compound to the

sealing face. Apply the locking compound
with a roller, across the entire sealing face.

5. Fit the flywheel housing.

6. Apply Loctite 243 locking compound to the

attachment bolts, and tighten them, in a
crosswise sequence, to the specified
torque.

7. Fit the oil seal. See “Removal and

installation of oil seal”.

8. Fit the flywheel. See “Removal and

installation of flywheel”.

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Flywheel and flywheel housing

9. Install the starter motor. See “Removal and

installation of starter motor”.

10. Fit a new oil sump gasket. See “Removal

and installation of oil sump”.

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Flywheel and flywheel housing

6.6 REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF REAR CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL

A new plastic assembly ring is supplied with

every new oil seal. This ring may be used once
only. When fitting the oil seal, the special DAF
tool no.: 0694899 must be used.

1. Remove the flywheel. See “Removal and

installation of flywheel”.

2. Remove the oil seal from the flywheel

housing using a slide hammer. Connect the
slide hammer extension to the oil seal,
using two plate screws.

3. If the flywheel housing has been removed

from the engine, the old oil seal can be
carefully tapped or pushed out of the
flywheel housing.

4. Clean the oil seal recess carefully, and

check for damage, since even the smallest
damage can cause a leak.

Note:
If the oil seal has scored the running surface of
the crankshaft flange, before a new oil seal is
fitted, a spacer ring must be placed in the oil
seal recess.

5. Apply a little grease to the sealing lip of oil

seal 2.

6. Fit guide plate A of DAF special tool

no.: 0694899 to the crankshaft flange, and
position the bolt heads, ensuring that the
assembly ring can be slid over them.

7. Position assembly ring 1, and slide the new

oil seal 2 over the assembly ring.

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Flywheel and flywheel housing

Note:
The outer edge of the oil seal must not be
coated with sealing compound.

8. Apply thrust ring B to guide plate A. Force

oil seal 2 into the flywheel housing by
gradually tightening the nut.

9. Fit the flywheel. See “Removal and

installation of flywheel”.

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7. TIMING GEAR
7.1 COMPONENT DRAWING

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1. Gasket
2. Timing case
3. Dowel pin
4. Camshaft gear
5. Key
6. Ring
7. Bolt
8. Dowel pin
9. Bolt
10. Ring
11. Bearing bush
12. Hub
13. Idler gear
14. Bolt
15. Dowel pin
16. Gasket
17. Timing cover
18. Shouldered stud
19. Circlip
20. Bolt
21. Shouldered stud
22. Key
23. Crankshaft gear
24. Oil seal
25. Circlip
26. Bolt
27. Vibration damper
28. Bush
29. Lock ring (inner ring)
30. Lock ring (outer ring)
31. Pulley
32. Thrust piece
33. Crank bolt

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7.2 REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF VIBRATION DAMPER AND PULLEY

Removal
1. Remove the V–belts. See “Removal and
installation of V–belts”.

2. Remove the fan. See “Removal and

installation of fan and coupling”.

3. When the engine has been removed from

the vehicle, the engine flywheel must be
blocked. The flywheel is blocked using a
tool which can be made in the workshop.
See opposite drawing.

4. Remove the attachment bolts from the

pulley, and remove the pulley from the
vibration damper.

5. Remove the crank bolt.

6. Remove the thrust piece from the vibration

damper attachment.

7. “Shock” the lock ring by gently tapping the

central section of the vibration damper with
a mallet (see opposite drawing). Never tap
against the vibration damper above the
rubber rim.

8. Remove the vibration damper, with the lock

rings and bush, from the crankshaft.

Checking
1. Check the vibration damper for cracks in
the rubber section of the vibration damper.
Also check that there is no visible joint
between the rubber and the metal section
of the vibration damper.
If either of these points is noted, the
vibration damper must be rejected.

2. Check the clamping surfaces in the

vibration damper, and on the crankshaft, for
damage.

3. Check the lock rings for damage.

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4. Check whether the running surface of the

oil seal on the vibration damper has any
running grooves. If this is the case, a new
oil seal with a spacer ring should be fitted.

5. Check the oil seal; it is recommended that

this seal be replaced. See “Removal and
installation of front crankshaft oil seal”.

Installation
1. Clean all removed parts, the bolt threads
and the crankshaft front end.
Ensure that the contact areas are
thoroughly clean.

2. Apply a little grease to the running surface

of the oil seal on the vibration damper, and
slide the vibration damper onto the
crankshaft front end.

3. Lightly oil the lock rings.

4. One after the other, fit the bush 4, a

lock ring 3 (inner ring), a
lock ring 2 (outer ring), a
lock ring 3 (inner ring), a
lock ring 2 (outer ring) and the
thrust piece 1.

5. Apply Loctite 243 to the crank bolt, and

tighten this bolt to the specified torque.

6. Install the pulley on the vibration damper,

ensuring that the contact areas of both
vibration damper and pulley are thoroughly
clean and degreased.

7. Apply Loctite 243 to the attachment bolts,

and tighten them to the specified torque.

8. Install the removed parts. See the relevant

paragraphs.

9. Adjust the V–belt tension. See “Checking

and adjusting V–belt tension”.

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Timing gear

7.3 REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF FRONT CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL

1. Remove the vibration damper. See

“Removal and installation of vibration
damper and pulley”.

2. Remove the oil seal with a slide hammer.

Connect the slide hammer extension to the
oil seal, using two plate screws.

3. Clean and check the oil seal recess in the

timing cover. Even minimal damage can
lead to a leak.

Note:
If the oil seal has scored the vibration damper, a
spacer ring should be fitted in the oil seal.

4. Apply a little grease to the lip of oil seal 3.

5. If necessary, fit spacer ring 4 in the oil seal

recess.

6. Place the oil seal with the open section

facing the timing cover and, using special
tool 2 (DAF no. 0649914) and crank bolt 1,
push the oil seal further into the timing
cover recess.

7. Install the vibration damper. See “Removal

and installation of vibration damper and
pulley”.

8. Adjust the V–belt tension. See “Checking

and adjusting V–belt tension”.

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7.4 REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF TIMING COVER

Removal
1. Remove the vibration damper and pulley.
See “Removal and installation of vibration
damper and pulley”.

2. Remove the speed limiter actuator.

3. Mark the positions of the various

attachment bolts and studs, remove them,
and remove the timing cover.

Installation
1. Remove any remaining gasket pieces,
clean and check the contact surfaces,
dowel pins and locating holes.

2. Fit a new oil seal in the timing cover. See

“Removal and installation of front
crankshaft oil seal”.

3. To position the gasket, fit three studs. Then

fit the new gasket.

4. Install the timing cover, ensuring that the

dowel pins fit smoothly into the locating
holes on the cover.

5. Apply Loctite 243 to the attachment bolts

and shouldered studs, and install these in
the correct positions, taking account of the
length differences of these fasteners.

6. Remove the three studs, and insert

attachment bolts in their place.

7. Tighten the attachment bolts, in a crosswise

sequence, to the specified torque.

8. For the other parts, installation is a reversal

of removal. See the relevant paragraphs.

9. Adjust the V–belt tension. See “Checking

and adjusting V–belt tension”.

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7.5 REMOVAL, INSTALLATION AND ADJUSTMENT OF TIMING GEAR

General
1. Crank the engine to the commencement of
injection of cylinder 1.
See “Checking and setting the pump
timing”.

2. Remove the timing cover. See “Removal

and installation of timing cover”.

3. Using a feeler gauge, check the gear

backlash.

4. Check the gears for wear and/or damage.

5. Make sure the gears are not exchanged

with those of other engines.

Removal and installation of camshaft gear

1. Crank the engine from the commencement
of injection in cylinder 1 through to the TDC.
The 0_ mark on the flywheel (TDC of the
1st cylinder) is now in line with the notch in
the adjustment plate.

M2 00 144

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2. Check that the arrow on the camshaft gear

is in line with the mark on the timing case
(see A in the opposite drawing).

3. Block the crankshaft. See “Removal and

installation of vibration damper and pulley”.
Remove the camshaft gear attachment bolt.

4. Unblock the crankshaft. Remove the

camshaft gear, using puller
DAF no.: 0535144, or by evenly forcing the
gear off, using two M10 x 1.25 bolts.

5. Clean the contact areas and the thread of

the attachment bolt. Degrease the contact
area of camshaft and gear.

6. Check the key and keyway.

7. Check the camshaft end play. See

“Removal and installation of camshaft”.

8. Place the camshaft gear on the camshaft,

ensuring that the marks remain visible.

9. Check the backlash.

M2 00 143
10. Block the crankshaft (the idler gear must be
fitted).

11. Apply Loctite 243 to the attachment bolt,

and fit the bolt. Tighten the bolt to the
specified torque.

12. Check the timing. See “Setting the timing”.

Removal and installation of idler gear

1. Crank the engine from the commencement
of injection of cylinder 1 to the TDC.
The 0_ mark on the flywheel (TDC of the
1st cylinder) is now in line with the notch in
the adjustment plate.

M2 00 144

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2. Check that the arrow on the camshaft gear

is in line with the mark on the timer case
(see A in the opposite drawing).

3. Remove the attachment bolt.

4. Then subsequently remove the ring, the

front bearing bush, the idler gear and the
rear bearing bush from the hub.

5. If necessary, remove the hub from the

cylinder block, by alternately tapping the
hub at top and bottom, with a mallet.

6. Check the bearing bushes and the idler

gear for wear and damage.

7. Check the hub for wear and damage.

8. Tap the hub into the cylinder block with a

mallet.

9. Apply oil to the hub and bearing bushes.

10. Check that the camshaft gear and the

flywheel are in the correct position. See
“Setting the timing”. M2 00 143
Then fit onto the hub, in the following order:
rear bearing bush, idler gear with the larger
shoulder facing the cylinder block, so that
the oil holes face away from the cylinder
block (they remain visible), and finally the
front bearing bush. Make sure that, during
the fitting of the idler gear, the other gears
do not turn.

11. Fit the attachment bolt with the washer.

Tighten the attachment bolt to the specified
torque.

12. Check that the idler gear does not become

stuck, and that the backlash is within the
specified parameters.

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Timing gear

Removal and installation of crankshaft gear

1. Crank the engine from the commencement
of injection of cylinder 1 to the TDC.
The 0_ mark on the flywheel (TDC of the
1st cylinder) is now in line with the notch in
the adjustment plate.

M2 00 144

2. Check that the arrow on the camshaft gear

is in line with the mark on the timer case
(see A in the opposite drawing).

3. Remove the idler gear.

4. Remove the oil pump. See “Removal and

installation of oil pump”.

5. Remove the crankshaft gear with a suitable

puller.
Depending on the puller to be used, the
timing case may have to be removed first.
See “Removal and installation of timing
case”.

6. Check the key and keyway.

7. Degrease the clamping faces of gear and

crankshaft.

8. Heat the crankshaft gear in an oven or on a

hot–plate to between 150_C and 170_C;
check the correct temperature using
thermal probes.

M2 00 143

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9. Fit the gear onto the crankshaft, making

sure that the wider shoulder (see arrow in
the opposite drawing) faces the cylinder
block, so that the chamfered section of the
gear shoulder touches the crankshaft
shoulder. The gear must make full contact
with the shoulder of the crankshaft.

10. Install the idler gear, and check the timing.

See “Removal and installation of idler gear”.

11. Install the oil pump. See “Removal and

installation of oil pump”.

Setting the timing

Note:
Setting the timing as described below is only
possible if the valve gear (rocker shaft) has
been removed from the engine.
If the rocker shaft has not been removed, the
pistons may hit the valves, during cranking.

1. Remove idler gear 2.

2. Crank the flywheel from the

commencement of injection to the 0_ mark
on the flywheel (TDC of the 1st cylinder).
The key (B) of crankshaft gear 3 is now
pointing vertically upwards.

3. Turn camshaft gear 1 until the arrow on the

camshaft gear is in line with the mark (A) on
the timing case.

4. Install idler gear 2. See “Removal and

installation of idler gear”. Ensure that
camshaft gear 1 or crankshaft gear 3 do not
move whilst idler gear 2 is being fitted.

M2 00 118

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Checking the timing

Note:
The idler gear and the camshaft gear must be
fitted.

1. Crank the flywheel in the direction of

rotation of the engine, until the 0_ mark on
the flywheel (TDC of the 1st cylinder) is in
line with the notch in the adjustment plate.
The crankshaft gear key is now pointing
vertically upwards. See “Setting the timing”.

2. Check that the arrow on the camshaft gear

is opposite the mark on the timing case.
See “Setting the timing”.

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Timing gear

7.6 REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF TIMING CASE

Removal
1. Crank the engine to the commencement of
injection of cylinder 1.
See “Checking and setting the pump
timing”.

2. Remove the alternator. See “Removal and

installation of alternator”.

3. Remove the air compressor. See “Removal

and installation of air compressor”.

4. Remove the engine speed sensor from the

timing case.

5. Remove the timing cover. See “Removal

and installation of timing cover”.

6. Remove the fuel pump. See “Removal and

installation of fuel pump”.

7. Remove the camshaft gear and the idler

gear. See “Removal, installation and
adjustment of timing gear”.

8. Remove the axial thrust washer from the

camshaft. See “Removal and installation of
camshaft”.

9. Remove the oil sump. See “Removal and

installation of oil sump”.

10. Fix the front of the engine securely to a

hoist. If working on a built–in engine,
remove the attachment of the timing case
to the engine mounting vibration damper.

11. Remove the four attachment bolts and take

the timing case from the cylinder block.

Installation
1. Remove any remaining gasket pieces,
clean the sealing faces, and check them for
damage.

2. Check and if necessary replace the dowel

pins.

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Timing gear

3. To position the gasket, screw three studs

into the cylinder block, and fit a new gasket.

4. Install the timing case.

5. Apply Loctite 243 to the four attachment

bolts (see the arrows in the opposite
drawing) and tighten the bolts to the
specified torque. Remove the three studs.

6. If working on a built–in engine, reconnect

the timing case attachment to the engine
mounting vibration damper.

7. Cut the gasket of the timing case on the oil

sump side exactly to size.

8. Apply oil resistant silicon cement to the

sealing face between cylinder block and M2 00 119
timing case on the oil sump side (where the
gasket has been cut to size).

9. Fit the oil sump. See “Removal and

installation of oil sump”.

10. Install the axial thrust washer of the

camshaft. See “Removal and installation of
camshaft”.

11. Fit the camshaft gear and the idler gear.

Set the timing. See “Removal, installation
and adjustment of timing gear”.

12. Fit the timing cover. See “Removal and

installation of timing cover”.

13. Fit the fuel pump. See “Removal and

installation of fuel pump”.

14. Reinstall the engine speed sensor.

15. Fit the air compressor. See “Removal and

installation of air compressor”.

16. Fit the alternator. See “Removal and

installation of alternator”.

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8. CYLINDER BLOCK AND DRIVE UNIT

8.1 COMPONENT DRAWING

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1. Piston ring (top ring)

2. Piston ring (compression ring)
3. Oil scraper ring
4. Piston
5. Gudgeon pin
6. Circlip
7. Connecting rod
8. Small–end bush
9. Cylinder liner
10. Bearing shells
11. Dowel pin
12. Connecting rod cap
13. Bolt
14. Supporting ring
15. Centring bush
16. Plug
17. Centring bush
18. Cylinder block
19. Drain cock
20. Expansion plug
21. Plug
22. Expansion plug
23. Plug
24. Plug
25. Gasket
26. Sealing ring
27. Bolt
28. Cover
29. Plug
30. Dowel pin
31. Main bearing cap
32. Washer
33. Bolt
34. Bolt
35. Axial thrust washer
36. Spacer ring
37. Camshaft
38. Plug
39. Crankshaft
40. Axial thrust washer (top)
41. Axial thrust washer (bottom)
42. Main bearing shells

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8.2 REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF PISTONS AND CONNECTING RODS

Removal
1. Remove the cylinder head. See “Removal
and installation of cylinder head”.

2. Remove the oil sump. See “Removal and

installation of oil sump”.

3. Remove the oil pipes and the oil pump, if

they could hinder the removal of the
pistons. See the relevant paragraphs.

4. If the pistons are to be returned to the

engine, they must be marked, so that they
are fitted in the original cylinder.

5. Remove the bolts from the connecting rod

cap.

6. Remove the connecting rod cap.

7. Remove the connecting rod complete with

piston.

8. Ensure that the big–end bearing shells are

kept with the correct bearing cap and
connecting rod.

9. Remove the circlips from the piston bore.

10. Force the gudgeon pin from the piston.

Avoid damaging the piston.

11. Force the bearing bush from the connecting

rod, if necessary using a well–fitting driving
tool.

12. Remove the piston rings from the piston,

using a piston ring clamp. Keep the piston
rings with the correct piston.

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Checking
1. Check the big–end bearing shells.

2. Check the small–end bush.

3. Check the connecting rod for cracks and

signs of overheating.

4. Check the connecting rod cap bolts. If in

doubt, replace.

5. Check the dimensions of the connecting

rod.

6. Check the gudgeon pin for cracks, wear

and signs of overheating.

7. Check the piston for cracks, wear and signs

of overheating.

8. Check the clearance of the piston rings in

the piston.

9. Check the running surface and the slot

openings of the piston rings.

Installation
1. Carefully clean the parts, and check that
the oil passages are open.

2. If necessary using a well–fitting driving tool,

press a new bush into the connecting rod.
When fitting the small–end bush, ensure
that the oil hole in the bush is precisely in
line with the opening of the oil bore in the
connecting rod.
After the small–end bush has been pressed
in, it should be reamed to the specified size.
Following reaming of the bush, check that
the centre–to–centre distance between the
big and small ends is within the tolerance
limits.

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Cylinder block and drive unit

3. Install the (new) bearing shells in the

connecting rod and the bearing cap, and
check that the oil passages are open.

4. Take the expander spring out of the oil

scraper ring, and place it in the bottom
piston groove in the piston.
Using a piston ring clamp, place the oil
scraper ring over the spring in the piston
ring groove.
The opening of the spring must be opposite
the slot opening in the oil scraper ring.
Turn the oil scraper ring so that the slot
opening (B) is positioned in relation to the
gudgeon pin (A) as shown in the opposite
drawing.
The slot openings B of the three piston
rings must be positioned at 120_ intervals
from one another.

5. Use a piston ring clamp to fit the

compression ring with the word “top” facing
upwards.
Turn the piston ring, ensuring that the slot
opening (B) is positioned in relation to the
gudgeon pin (A) as shown in the drawing.
The slot openings B of the three piston
rings must be at 120_ intervals from one
another.

6. Use the piston ring clamp to fit the top ring

with the word “top” facing upwards.
Turn the top ring, ensuring that the slot
opening (B) is positioned in relation to the
gudgeon pin (A) as shown in the drawing.
The slot openings B of the three piston
rings must be positioned at 120_ intervals
from one another.

7. Fit a single circlip in the piston.

8. Heat the piston to a temperature of approx.

50_C, and lightly oil the gudgeon pin.

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9. Insert the connecting rod into the piston,

and force the gudgeon pin into the piston.
Ensure that all pistons are fitted to the
connecting rods in the same way. Check
this by looking at the number on the side of
the connecting rod and the arrow on the top
of the piston.

10. Fit the circlips, and check that they are well
fitted into the grooves.

11. Use a non–fluff cloth to clean the crankshaft

and the cylinder liner.

12. Carefully oil the cylinder liner, piston and

piston rings. Fit a piston ring clamp strip to
the piston.
Place the piston in the cylinder, ensuring
that the arrow on the piston points towards
the timing gear end of the engine.

13. Clean and check the contact faces of

connecting rod and connecting rod cap.

14. Apply oil to the bearing shells.

15. Make sure that each connecting rod cap is

fitted to the connecting rod it was originally
fitted to.
Check this by looking at the numbers
shown on connecting rod and connecting
rod cap.
The numbers on the connecting rod and
connecting rod cap must be on the same
side.

16. Apply a drop of oil to the threads and

bearing faces of the connecting rod cap
bolts, and fit the bolts. Tighten both bolts
gradually and in turns to the specified
torque.

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17. Check that the bearing has some end play.

If there is any radial play, this will probably
be caused by the fact that a ground
crankshaft has been fitted with standard
bearings.

18. Crank the engine through several

revolutions, and check that there are no
heavy points.

19. Then install the removed components, in

reverse order of removal. Consult the
relevant paragraphs.

Note:
After the replacement of cylinder liners, pistons
and piston rings, the engine must be run–in
again.
As the running–in properties of the specified
engine oil are insufficient, a different grade of
engine oil should be used during the running–in
period.
For the oil specified for the running–in period,
see the latest Technical Information bulletin on
lubricant, coolant and fuel specifications.

After 2,500 km, this oil should be drained

and the oil filter replaced.
Then fill the engine with the specified oil.

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8.3 REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF CRANKSHAFT

Removal
1. Remove the oil sump. See “Removal and
installation of oil sump”.

2. Remove the timing case. See “Removal

and installation of timing case”.

3. Remove the oil pump with the oil pipes. See

“Internal parts of the lubrication system”.

4. Remove the flywheel. See “Removal and

installation of flywheel”.

5. Remove the flywheel housing. See

“Removal and installation of flywheel
housing”.

6. Remove the connecting rod cap bolts. See

“Removal and installation of pistons and
connecting rods”.

7. Remove the main bearing cap bolts and

take off the main bearing caps. Check
whether all bearing caps carry a letter mark.
If not, apply a mark.

8. Remove the axial thrust washers.

9. Remove the crankshaft, ensuring that

during removal the crankshaft is not
damaged.

10. Mark the position of the bearing shells, so

that they can be returned to their original
positions.

Checking
1. Check the crankshaft for external damage
and signs of overheating.

2. Magnaflux–test the crankshaft.

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3. Measure the crankshaft.

To establish the wear pattern of crankshaft
main bearings and big–end bearings, follow
the procedure shown in the “Measuring of
wear” form, a copy of which is included in
the “Technical data” of this manual.

4. Check the bearing shells and axial thrust

washers for wear, damage and signs of
overheating.

5. Check the main bearing caps for damage

and signs of overheating.

6. Check the contact faces of the bearing caps

in the cylinder block.

7. Check the tapped hole for the main bearing

cap bolt.

8. Check the main bearing cap bolts; the

thread must be completely undamaged. If in
doubt, replace.

Installation
1. Thoroughly clean all parts.

2. Clean the tapped holes for the main bearing

cap bolts.

3. If the main bearing shells are to be

re–used, fit them in their original positions in
the cylinder block and in the bearing caps.

4. If the crankshaft has been ground to an

undersize, fit the correct bearing shells.

5. Check whether all oil passages of the

bearings and crankshaft are open.

6. Check the dowel pin for the centre bearing.

7. Apply oil to the bearing shells.

8. Place the crankshaft in the cylinder block.

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9. Apply oil to the axial thrust washers. Fit a

thrust washer to both sides of the centre
bearing, with the bronze bearing material
facing the crankshaft. See the arrow in the
opposite drawing.

10. Measure the crankshaft end play, using a

dial gauge.

11. Push the crankshaft to the flywheel end and

set the dial gauge to zero.

12. Push the crankshaft to the timing gear end

and read the gauge.

13. Too much end play can be corrected by

fitting oversize thrust washers.

14. Too little end play can be corrected by

grinding the thrust washers on the metal
side (not the bronze bearing material).
Grind the axial thrust washers of the
bearing cap to the same size.

15. Fit the two axial thrust washers in the

centre bearing cap.

16. Apply oil to the bearing shells in the bearing

caps.
Fit the bearing caps, ensuring that the letter
on the bearing cap matches the letter on
the cylinder block.
The letters must all be on the same side of
the bearing caps (see the opposite
drawing).
Tap the bearing cap into the cylinder block,
using a mallet.

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17. Apply a drop of oil to the threads and the

bearing faces of the bearing cap bolts, and
tighten the bolts.

18. Tighten both bolts gradually and in turns to

the specified torque.
Start by tightening the centre bearing cap
bolts and subsequently work towards both
ends.

19. Check that the crankshaft rotates easily,

and has no heavy points.

20. Once again measure and if necessary

correct the end play.

21. Then fit the components in a reversal of

removal. Consult the relevant paragraphs.

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8.4 CRANKSHAFT GRINDING

– If necessary, the crankshaft may be ground

to one of three undersizes.
– In the event of damage to the axial bearing
surfaces of the centre main bearing, these
surfaces can be ground to an undersize.
– If the running surface of the rear crankshaft
oil seal has to be ground, the running
surface may not be ground over the full
length. The original diameter must be
retained for at least 7 mm measured from
the rear end of the crankshaft, to ensure
correct fitting of the flywheel. See distance
A in the opposite drawing.
– Following grinding of a crankshaft, the oil
holes must be redrilled to a radius of
0.5 mm.
– The fillet radius of the journals must be
precisely machined to the specified radius.
– A crankshaft may only be ground once to
the next undersize without being nitrided.
– The front end of the crankshaft (the bearing
face for the vibration damper) should not be
nitrided over a length of 86 mm, measured
from the front edge of the crankshaft. See
distance A in the opposite drawing.

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– Following nitriding, the nitride layer must be

removed from the following parts, by
lapping:
– All main bearing journals and
crankpins.
– The flanks of the centre main bearing,
for the axial bearings.
– The circumference of the flywheel
flange.
– Oil seal running surfaces.
– If the crankshaft is ground to an undersize,
the crankshaft must be marked with one of
the following codes:
H = Main bearing journal
D = Crankpin
N = Nitrided crankshaft

The letters H and D should be followed by a

number indicating the number of times the
crankshaft has been ground 1st, 2nd, or 3rd
undersize).

The code on the crankshaft shown on the

opposite drawing means:
H1 = main bearing journal ground to the
first undersize
D2N = crankpin ground to second
undersize and the crankshaft has been
nitrided.
– To balance the crankshaft, the shaft must
be fitted in bearings at the front and rear
main bearings.
The crankshaft must be dynamically
balanced at a speed of 350 rpm to a
maximum of 72 g/cm.
Material can be removed by drilling out
counterweights.
A maximum of 5 holes with a diameter of at
most 17 mm and a depth of at most 35 mm
may be bored into each counterweight. The
holes must not touch.

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8.5 REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF CAMSHAFT

Removal
1. Crank the engine to the commencement of
injection of cylinder 1.
See “Checking and setting the pump
timing”.

2. Remove the timing cover. See “Removal

and installation of timing cover”.

3. Crank the engine from the commencement

of injection of cylinder 1 through to the
TDC.
The 0_ mark on the flywheel (TDC of the
1st cylinder) is now in line with the notch in
the adjustment place.

Check that the arrow on the camshaft gear M2 00 144

is aligned with the mark on the timing case.
See “Removal, installation and adjustment
of timing gear”.

4. Remove the valve cover.

5. Remove the side covers on the right–hand

side of the engine.

6. Remove the pushrods and the tappets. See

“Removal and installation of valve gear”.

7. If necessary, remove the camshaft gear.

See “Removal, installation and adjustment
of timing gear”.

M2 00 143

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8. Remove the attachment bolts from the axial

thrust washer, and remove the thrust
washer.
If the camshaft gear has not been removed,
the camshaft with axial thrust washer and
spacer ring can now be removed.

9. Remove the camshaft with spacer ring from

the cylinder block.

10. Remove the spacer ring from the camshaft.

Checking
1. Clean the camshaft and check that the oil
bores are open.

2. Check whether the sealing plug at the rear

of the camshaft provides a good seal.

3. Check the camshaft for damage, wear and

signs of overheating.

4. Check the dimensions of the camshaft.

5. Check the camshaft bearing itself and the

bearing in the cylinder block. The camshaft
is fitted directly in the cylinder block, without
bearing bushes.

6. Check the spacer ring. It should preferably

be replaced.

7. Check the axial thrust washer for wear and

damage.

Installation
1. Before installing the camshaft, check that
all oil passages in the cylinder block are
open.

2. Apply plenty of oil to the camshaft bearings,

and insert the camshaft into the cylinder
block, whilst rotating the shaft.

3. Check that the camshaft rotates easily, with

no heavy points.

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4. Fit the spacer ring on the camshaft.

5. Fit the axial thrust washer.

6. Fit the attachment bolts for the axial thrust

washer, using Loctite 243.
Tighten the bolts in a crosswise sequence
to the specified torque.

7. Once again check that the camshaft rotates

easily, with no heavy points.

8. Measure the camshaft end play.

To do this, place a measuring block with dial
gauge on the front of the timing case.

9. Push the camshaft to the flywheel end, and

set the gauge to zero.

10. Push the camshaft to the timing gear end

and read the gauge.

11. Correct the end play by replacing or

grinding the spacer ring.

12. Fit the camshaft gear and set the timing.

See “Removal, installation and adjustment
of timing gear”.

13. Then replace all parts in reverse of

removal. Consult the relevant paragraphs.

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8.6 MEASURING AND ASSESSMENT OF CYLINDER LINERS

Measuring
1. To establish the cylinder liner wear pattern,
follow the procedure set out in the
“Measuring of wear” form, a copy of which
is included in the “Technical data” of this
manual.

2. The out–of–roundness can be measured by

turning the dial gauge in quarter turns, and
reading the dimension after every quarter
turn.

3. If the cylinder liner has become

oval–shaped, the initial bore in the cylinder
block should be checked.

4. If the initial bore in the cylinder block is

0.05 mm larger than the specified maximum
size for new bores, the block must be bored
out, and the cylinder liners must be
replaced by liners with oversize outside
diameters.

Rejection standard for cylinder liners

Cylinder liners must be replaced when:
– The bore–polishing standard is exceeded.
– The wear pattern is not uniform.
– The running surface is scored.
– The difference between the measurements
recorded on the “Measuring of wear” form
exceeds 0.07 mm.

Note:
If a cylinder liner is rejected on the basis of the
above criteria, it must be replaced and not
honed.

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Bore–polishing
1. One of the measures to be taken to correct
clearly high oil consumption (engine oil
consumption test) is to check the cylinder
liners for bore–polishing.

2. The term bore–polishing is used to indicate

smooth surfaces without a visible regular
honing pattern (see opposite drawing).
If the “deeper” honing lines still show a
regular pattern, the term “bore–polishing”
does not apply.

3. Only bore–polishing beneath the top side of

the top piston rings in the top piston
position can affect oil consumption.

4. The following are permissible:

– a maximum of 3 areas of complete
bore–polishing per liner, each with a
surface of not more than 10 cm2.
– a maximum of 3 areas of partial
bore–polishing per liner, with a total
surface area of not more than 20 cm2.

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8.7 REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF CYLINDER LINERS

Removal
1. To remove the cylinder liner from the
cylinder block, use the appropriate parts of
DAF special tool no.: 0535625. See A in the
opposite drawing.

2. Using the special tool, draw the cylinder

liner from the cylinder block.

3. When the liner has been removed, measure

the initial bore in the cylinder block.
If the initial bore is 0.05 mm larger than the
specified maximum size for new bores, the
cylinder block must be bored out to the
specified oversize.
Then fit oversize cylinder liners (cylinder
liners with oversize outside diameter).

4. Measure the depth of the recess for the

cylinder liner flange, and compare this with
the specified value.

Note:
If oversize cylinder liners are fitted, the mark S1
must be stamped into the cylinder block, above
or below the engine number.
In addition, the engine identification plate should
be marked C.S1.

Installation
1. Clean the cylinder block before fitting the
new liner.

2. Before installing the cylinder liner in the

cylinder block, fit the appropriate parts of
DAF special tool no.: 0535625. See B in the
drawing.

3. If possible, cylinder liners should be

undercooled before fitting.

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4. Only in case of emergency is it permitted to

apply an extremely thin film of lubrication oil
to the edge of the initial bore. On no
account may any other lubricants of
whatever type be used.
Difficulties in inserting cylinder liners are
mostly due to remnants of lubricants
previously used.

5. Use the special tool to fit the cylinder liner

completely in the block.

6. Following fitting, check the inside diameter

of the cylinder liner.

7. When the new cylinder liner has been fitted,

check the projection of the cylinder liner
above the cylinder block.
If necessary, correct the projection. See
“Measuring and correcting cylinder liner
height”.

8. Subsequently install the other parts in

reverse order of removal. Consult the
relevant paragraphs.

Note:
After the replacement of cylinder liners, pistons
and piston rings, the engine must be run–in
again.
As the running–in properties of the specified
engine oil are insufficient, a different grade of
engine oil should be used during the running–in
period.
For the oil specified for the running–in period,
see the latest Technical Information bulletin on
lubricant, coolant and fuel specifications.

After 2,500 km, this oil should be drained

and the oil filter replaced.
Then fill the engine with the specified oil.

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8.8 MEASURING AND CORRECTING CYLINDER LINER HEIGHT

When new cylinder liners have been fitted, the

projection of the cylinder liner above the cylinder
block should be checked.
This measurement should be carried out before
the cylinder head is fitted.

The projection of the cylinder liner above the

cylinder block should be checked using special
tool DAF no.: 0694795.

Checking
1. Place the tool on the top of the cylinder
block.

2. Set the gauge to “ZERO”.

3. Place the base of the gauge on the edge of

the cylinder liner.

4. Read the value indicated by the gauge.

Correcting
1. If the cylinder liner is too deep in the
cylinder block, this can be corrected by
fitting shims under the cylinder liner flange.

2. If (after the block has been refaced) the

projection of the cylinder liner above the
block is more than the specified maximum,
the recess for the cylinder liner flange
should be restored to the specified size.

Note:
It is on no account permitted to grind off the
flanges.

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8.9 PRESSURE–TESTING THE CYLINDER BLOCK

1. Fit the cylinder head and gasket.

2. Plug the coolant passages of the cylinder

head with blanking plates, fitted with
gaskets.
These blanking plates can be made in the
workshop. One of the blanking plates must
have a connection for a flexible air pipe.

3. Connect a flexible air pipe, fitted with a

pressure reducing valve, to the blanking
plate which has the connection required.

4. Immerse the block in warm water, and

pressure–test the block at an air pressure
of 1.5 bar.

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8.10 MACHINING THE CYLINDER BLOCK

Refacing
1. When machining the cylinder block, ensure
that dimension A, the distance between the
top of the crankshaft bore and the top of the
cylinder block, remains within the specified
parameters.

2. When the top of the cylinder block has been

machined, measure the depth of the
recesses for the cylinder liner flanges.
Correct this depth to prevent the cylinder
liners projecting too far above the cylinder
block. See “Measuring and correcting
cylinder liner height”.

Cleaning
1. Clean the cylinder block thoroughly, paying
special attention to the various oil
passages.

2. Check that the oil passages are not

blocked.

Sealing plugs
1. Apply Loctite 243 to the sealing plugs. Fit
the plugs and, if applicable, use new
sealing rings.

2. Apply Loctite 270 to the sealing plugs which

are located behind the right–hand side
covers (item number 16 in the component
drawing). Fit the plugs.

Removal and installation of expansion plugs

1. Tap the edge of the expansion plug, to tilt
the plug. Ensure that there is no damage.

2. Remove the expansion plug with a pair of

pliers.

3. Apply Loctite 270 to the new expansion

plug, and tap it into the cylinder block, using
a suitable driving tool.

4. Leave the Loctite to harden for at least

1 hour.

5. Check for leaks.

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9. COOLING SYSTEM
9.1 REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF THERMOSTAT AND THERMOSTAT
HOUSING

Removal of thermostats
1. Remove the attachment nuts and bolts and
remove the thermostat housing cover from
the thermostat housing.

2. Remove the thermostats from the

thermostat housing.

3. Remove the sealing rings from the

thermostats.

Checking thermostats
1. Check the sealing faces of the thermostat
housing and the thermostat housing cover
for damage.

2. Check whether the thermostats are fully

closed.

3. Place the thermostats in a container filled 1. Bolt

with water. 2. Wavy washer
3. Thermostat housing cover
4. Place a thermometer in the container and 4. Pipe coupling
heat the water. Check the temperature at 5. Nut
which the thermostats open, and whether 6. Sealing ring
they open fully. See technical data. 7. Thermostat
8. Sealing ring
Installing the thermostats 9. Bolt
1. Clean the thermostats. 10. Coolant pump
11. Gasket
2. Clean the sealing faces of the thermostat 12. Thermostat housing
housing and the thermostat housing cover.

3. Install new sealing rings.

4. Place the thermostats in the housing.

5. Install the thermostat housing cover.

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Removal of the thermostat housing

1. Remove the V–belts from the coolant pump
pulley.

2. Remove the alternator bracket from the

thermostat housing.

3. Remove the fuel return pipe bracket from

the thermostat housing.

4. Remove the temperature sensor connector.

5. Remove the joint attachment bolt for the

thermostat housing and coolant pump. This
is the top attachment bolt on the left–hand
side of the coolant pump. See arrow in
drawing.

6. Remove all other attachment bolts, and

remove the thermostat housing with the
coolant pump from the cylinder block.

Installation of thermostat housing

1. Thoroughly clean the sealing faces of the
thermostat housing and the cylinder block.

2. Check the sealing faces of the thermostat

housing and the cylinder block for damage.

3. Screw two studs into the top of the cylinder

block, and install the thermostat housing on
the cylinder block, using a new gasket.

4. Apply Loctite 243 to the attachment bolts

and tighten them to the specified torque.

5. Replace the two studs by attachment bolts.

6. Replacing all other parts is a reversal of

removal.

7. Adjust the V–belt tension. See “Checking

and adjusting V–belt tension”.

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9.2 REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF FAN AND COUPLING

1. Fan coupling 4. Spacer

2. Self–locking nut 5. Self–locking nut
3. Fan 6. Pulley

Removal Note:
1. Remove the attachment nuts of the fan to The viscous fan coupling must be stored in a
the fan coupling. vertical position, or with the flange side
upwards.
2. Remove the attachment nuts of the fan The fan coupling may never be put down on the
coupling to the pulley. flange side.

3. Take the fan from the fan coupling. Checking the viscous fan coupling
Drive speed 2,600 rpm (fitted with fan).

Air temperature Fan speed

approx. 30_C 400 – 800 rpm
approx. 70_C approx. 2,080 rpm
approx. 80_C approx. 2,340 rpm

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Installation
1. Check the fan for damage.

2. Clean the contact areas of the parts. It is

important that the contact areas are clean.

3. Replace the self–locking nuts.

4. Installation is a reversal of removal.

Install the fan, ensuring that the word
“front”, shown on the plastic section, is at
the front of the fan.
Tighten the nuts in a crosswise sequence.

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9.3 REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF COOLANT PUMP

Removal
1. Before removing the V–belts, loosen the
attachment bolts for the pump pulley
through several turns.

2. Remove the V–belts from the pulley.

3. Further loosen the attachment bolts from

the pump pulley, and remove the pulley.

4. Remove the attachment bolts and take the

pump from the thermostat housing.

Installation
1. Thoroughly clean the sealing faces of the
pump and the thermostat housing.

2. Check the sealing faces of the pump and

the thermostat housing for damage.

3. Centre the gasket when installing the pump,

by inserting four studs in the thermostat
housing.

4. Install the pump on the thermostat housing,

using a new gasket. Ensure that the gasket
is not damaged.

5. Apply Loctite 243 to the attachment bolts,

and insert them.

6. Remove the studs used for centring the

pump, and replace them with attachment
bolts.

7. Tighten the attachment bolts, in a crosswise

sequence, to the specified torque.

8. Check the pump impeller for dragging.

9. Install the pump pulley.

10. Install the V–belts and adjust the V–belt

tension. See “Checking and adjusting
V–belt tension”.

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9.4 DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY OF COOLANT PUMP

Component drawing

1. Bolt 7. Housing
2. Washer 8. Oil seal
3. Drive flange 9. Wear ring
4. Circlip 10. Impeller
5. Bearing 11. Washer
6. Shaft 12. Bolt

Disassembly
1. Remove the pump from the engine. See
“Removal and installation of coolant pump”.

2. Remove the attachment bolt from the

flange.

3. Remove the drive flange from the shaft,

using a puller.

4. Remove the circlip from the housing.

5. Place the pump housing with the drive side

on the bearing plate of a press.

6. Using a driving tool (A in the opposite

drawing), press the shaft from the impeller,
the wear ring, the oil seal and the pump
housing. Ensure that the shaft is not
damaged during pressing.
The bearing will be forced out of the
housing, together with the shaft.
The diameter of the driving tool to be used
must be slightly smaller than the diameter
of the part of the shaft holding the impeller.

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7. Force the shaft out of the bearing.

8. Tap the oil seal from the pump housing,

towards the impeller side.

Checking
1. Clean the components which are suitable
for re–use. The oil seal, the wear ring and
the bearing must always be replaced.

2. Following cleaning, check the components

for wear and damage. Pay special attention
to the various sealing faces of the pump
housing.

3. Check that there is no sharp edge on the

impeller end of the shaft. If necessary,
smooth off the sharp edge to prevent
damage to the impeller when it is being
pressed onto the shaft.

Installation
1. If the specified tools are not used when the
shaft is fitted in the bearing and when the
bearing and oil seal are fitted in the
housing, the pump will leak.

2. Sparingly apply “Molykote” to the section of

the shaft where the bearing is to be fitted.

3. Check that the bearing plate of the press is

smooth and clean.
Position bearing installer A, special tool
DAF no.: 0694983, on the bearing plate.

4. Place bearing 5 with the rounded inner

edge (see magnification in opposite
drawing) facing upwards, on bearing
installer A.
The manufacturer’s mark on the bearing is
also visible.

5. Force shaft 6 carefully down to the bearing

shoulder.
Ensure that the shaft is pressed in
vertically.

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6. Place the pump housing on the bearing

plate of the press.
Check that the pump housing is fully level.

7. Check that the bearing recess in the

housing is completely clean.

8. Check bearing installer A, special tool DAF

no.: 0694983 for burrs. Any burrs found
must be removed.

9. Place bearing 5 with shaft 6 on pump

housing 8. Place bearing installer A on the
bearing and carefully force the bearing
vertically into the housing until it meets the
stop.
Once the bearing has reached the stop,
stop pressing. To continue could cause
deformation in the housing.
Check that the circlip can be fitted.

10. Position bearing installer A, special tool

DAF no.: 0694983, on the bearing plate,
with the projecting section pointing
upwards.

11. Place pump housing 8 with the drive side

on bearing installer A. In this way, bearing 5
is correctly supported.

12. Check the sealing faces of the new oil

seal 7 for damage, and place the oil seal in
the housing.

13. Using seal installer B, special tool DAF

no.: 0694984, force the oil seal 7 in the
housing until it meets the stop.

14. Check the sealing face of the new wear ring

for damage. Place the wear ring on the
shaft with the ground side facing the oil
seal.

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15. Press the wear ring onto the shaft until it

meets the shoulder, using a suitable
installer.

16. By pressing the wear ring, check whether it

is correctly fitted. The shaft should not
move.

17. Degrease the shaft and shaft hole on the

impeller. Apply a small amount of
Loctite 601 to the impeller shaft hole.
Ensure that no Loctite 601 falls on the oil
seal.

18. Place the impeller on the shaft, and

carefully force the impeller vertically onto
the shaft until it contacts the wear ring.

19. Check that the shaft rotates smoothly, and

does not touch the housing.

20. Check that the vanes of the impeller do not

project above the housing. To do this, place
a new gasket on the sealing face of the
housing, lay a steel rule on the gasket, and
rotate the impeller.

21. Turn the pump round, and fit the bearing

circlip. Check that it is fitted correctly in the
groove, all round.

22. Degrease the shaft and shaft hole of the

drive flange, and apply Loctite 601 to the
shaft hole.

23. With the larger shoulder facing away from

the pump, press the drive flange onto the
shaft until it meets the bearing.
Check that the shaft still rotates smoothly.

24. Fit the locking bolt of the drive flange, with

the washer. Tighten the locking bolt to the
specified torque.

25. Apply Loctite 243 to the locking bolt of the

impeller, and fit the locking bolt and washer.

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26. Check that the impeller is fitted to the shaft

with sufficient clamping force.
To do this, clamp the drive flange in a
bench vice fitted with protective plates.
Fit a gripper, to be made by yourself, onto a
torque wrench.
Set the torque wrench to 30 Nm.
Position the gripper on the impeller, and
tighten the torque wrench to 30 Nm.
At this torque, the impeller should not slip
on the shaft.
If the impeller does slip on the shaft, the
impeller should be replaced.

The gripper consists of a flange of

approximately the same diameter as that of
the impeller.
A socket spanner should be welded onto
the flange, so that the gripper can be
attached to the torque wrench.
Drill a pattern of holes into the flange, and
fit bolts in the holes.
The pattern of holes should be the same as
that of the vanes on the impeller.
The bolts in the holes will then catch behind
the vanes.

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10. LUBRICATION SYSTEM

10.1 EXTERNAL PARTS OF THE LUBRICATION SYSTEM

Component drawing

1. Sealing plug 9. Adapter

2. Sealing ring 10. Lubricating oil filter
3. Gasket 11. Sealing ring
4. Housing 12. Heat exchanger
5. Wavy washer 13. Sealing ring
6. Bolt 14. Cover
7. Wavy washer 15. O–ring
8. Bolt 16. Hollow screw

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Removal and installation of lubricating oil

filter/oil heat exchanger housing
1. Clean the housing and the surrounding
area.

2. Remove the coolant pipes from the heat

exchanger.

3. Depending on the reason for which the

housing must be removed, remove the oil
filter element.

4. Remove the attachment bolts and take the

housing off. Collect any oil released.

5. If necessary, replace the adapter with which

the oil filter is fixed to the housing. Fit the
new adapter, coated with Loctite 270.

6. Clean the contact surfaces.

7. Check the contact surfaces for damage.

8. Install the housing, using a new gasket.

9. Check and if necessary replace the flexible

pipe connections.

10. Check and if necessary replace the flexible

pipe clips.

11. Apply a little grease to the moving section

of these pipe clips, and tighten the pipe
clips.

12. Before starting the engine, check and if

necessary top up the oil level.
Bring the engine to operating temperature
and check for leaks.

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Removal of heat exchanger

1. Clean the housing of the heat exchanger
and the surrounding area.

2. Remove the coolant pipes from the heat

exchanger.

3. Remove the hollow screw at the base of the

heat exchanger, and take the heat
exchanger with the cover and sealing rings
from the housing.
A quantity of lubricating oil will escape.

Pressure–testing the oil section of the heat

exchanger
1. Clean the element of the heat exchanger.

2. Connect the element to pressure tester A,

special tool DAF no. 0694889.

3. Connect an air pipe, fitted with a pressure

reducing valve, to the air connection. Set
the air pressure to 6 bar.

4. Immerse the element in a container filled

with water, at a temperature of at least
50_C, and check for leaks.

Pressure–testing the coolant section of the

heat exchanger
1. Clean the element of the heat exchanger.

2. Seal off one of the coolant connections in

the element.

3. On the other coolant connection, connect

an air pipe, fitted with a pressure reducing
valve. Set the air pressure to 1.5 bar.

4. Immerse the heat exchanger in a container

filled with water, at a temperature of at least
50_C, and check for leaks.

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Installation of heat exchanger

1. Clean the element.

2. Check the contact surfaces for damage.

3. Apply Loctite 243 to the hollow screw and

install the element in the housing, using
new sealing rings.

4. Turn the element, ensuring that the pipe

connections for the coolant pipes are in the
correct position.

5. Tighten the hollow screw to the specified

torque.

Checking lubricating oil pressure

If there are problems with the lubricating oil
pressure, the pressure must first be measured,
using a reliable pressure gauge.

1. Bring the engine to operating temperature.

2. Remove the lubricating oil pressure sensor.

3. On the connection for the lubricating oil

pressure sensor, connect pressure gauge
A, special tool DAF no. 0535551.

4. Start the engine and measure the

lubricating oil pressure at maximum speed,
and at idling speed.
Compare the results with the specification
values.
The oil pressure regulating valve, located in
the oil sump, cannot be adjusted.

5. Remove the pressure gauge and reconnect

the lubricating oil pressure sensor, using a
new sealing ring.

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10.2 REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF OIL SUMP

Removal
1. Clean the oil sump and the surrounding
area.

2. Drain the engine oil.

3. Remove the dipstick and the dipstick

holder.

4. Clean the socket head screws and remove

them.

5. Remove the oil sump.

6. Remove the used gasket and thoroughly

clean the contact surfaces of oil sump and
cylinder block.
1. Gasket
Installation 2. Oil sump
1. Check the sealing faces of both oil sump 3. Plate
and cylinder block for damage. 4. Filler plate
5. Socket head screw
2. Check that the gasket between the timing 6. Sealing ring
case and the cylinder block does not 7. Sealing plug
protrude at the bottom. If necessary,
remove any protruding section.

3. Apply a thin layer of transparent silicon

cement to the underside of the gaskets
located between the cylinder block/timing
case and cylinder block/flywheel housing
(contact surfaces with the oil sump gasket).

4. Install the oil sump, using a new gasket.

5. Fit the attachment bolts with the filler

plates, semi–tightening the bolts. Ensure
that the gasket is not damaged.

6. On both sides of the oil sump, tighten three

bolts in the middle. Then tighten the other
bolts, working from the middle towards the
front and rear.

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7. Tighten the bolts to the specified torque.

8. Install the dipstick holder and the dipstick.

9. Fill the engine with the specified engine oil.

10. Check for leaks.

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10.3 INTERNAL PARTS OF THE LUBRICATION SYSTEM

Component drawing

1. Oil pump 12. Housing, oil pressure regulator

2. Centring bush 13. Bolt
3. Attachment bolt, oil pump 14. Ball
4. O–ring 15. Spring
5. Bolt 16. Washer
6. Delivery pipe 17. Split pin
7. O–ring 18. Ring
8. Bolt 19. Bolt
9. Suction pipe 20. Strainer basket
10. O–ring 21. Strainer
11. O–ring

Removal and installation of oil pipes

1. Remove the oil sump. See “Removal and
installation of oil sump”.

2. Remove the bolts which attach the pipe to

the oil pump.

3. Remove the strainer basket or the pressure

regulator and remove pipe and O–ring.

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4. Replace the O–rings and apply a little

grease.

5. Clean the thread on all attachment bolts

and apply Loctite 243.

6. Fit the pipes free from stress, and tighten

the attachment bolts to the specified torque.

7. Fit the oil sump. See “Removal and

installation of oil sump”.

Removal and installation of the oil pressure

regulator
1. Remove the oil sump. See “Removal and
installation of oil sump”.

2. Remove the bolts which attach the oil

pressure regulator to the cylinder block, and
remove the oil regulator from the delivery
pipe.

3. Depress the ring at the rear of the oil

pressure regulator, remove the split pin and
release the spring.

4. Remove the spring with the ball from the

housing.

5. Clean the components.

6. Check the ball, the ball seat and the spring.

Compare the spring with a new spring.
If necessary, replace the spring and ball.

7. Fit the ball, spring and ring. Depress the

spring and fit a new split pin.

8. Fit a new O–ring in the oil pressure

regulator and apply a little grease to the
O–ring.

9. Reinstall the oil pressure regulator to the

delivery pipe.

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10. Clean the attachment bolts for the oil

pressure regulator, apply Loctite 243 and fit
them. Tighten to the specified torque.

11. Reinstall the oil sump. See “Removal and

installation of oil sump”.

Removal and installation of oil pump

1. Remove the oil sump. See “Removal and
installation of oil sump”.

2. Remove the pipes from the oil pump.

3. Loosen the attachment bolts for the pump

on the bearing cap.

4. Tilt the pump from the centring bushes, and

remove the pump.

5. Check that the oil pump rotates smoothly,

with no heavy points.

6. Check for damage and if in doubt replace

the centring bushes.

7. Clean the attachment bolts and apply

Loctite 270.

8. Place the pump on the bearing cap and fit

the attachment bolts. Tighten the bolts to
the specified torque.

9. Check the backlash of the gears.

10. Reconnect the pipes, using new O–rings.

Apply Loctite 243 to the attachment bolts
and fit them. Tighten to the specified
torque.

11. Reinstall the oil sump. See “Removal and

installation of oil sump”.

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10.4 DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY OF OIL PUMP

Disassembly and assembly

1. Remove the pump from the bearing cap.
See “Removal and installation of oil pump”.

2. Support the drive gear, and force the shaft

with pump from the gear.

3. Remove the bolts and take the front plate

from the pump housing.

4. Take the shafts with the gears from the

pump housing.

5. Clean and check the parts for damage.

6. Gears must always be replaced as a

complete set. 1. Drive gear
2. Front plate
7. Install the shafts in the pump housing. 3. Primary shaft with pump gear
4. Secondary shaft with pump gear
5. Dowel pin
6. Pump housing
7. Bolt

8. Be careful when installing the secondary

shaft.
The small round recesses should never be
located on the same side of the gears. This
would endanger gear lubrication.
The small round recesses must always be
positioned opposite one another. See the
drawing.

9. Replace the front plate.

10. Apply Loctite 243 to the bolts and tighten

them to the specified torque.

11. Check that the pump rotates smoothly and

has no heavy points.

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12. Fit the drive gear with the DAF part number
at the front (remaining visible) onto the
shaft.
Press the gear onto the shaft until it meets
the stop.
The front faces of the gear hub and of the
shaft will then be in line.

13. Once again check that the pump rotates

smoothly, with no heavy points.

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11. FUEL SYSTEM

11.1 REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF INJECTOR PIPES

Note:
Always leave the injector pipes fixed together,
as a complete set.
Never remove or shift the clamps (A in the
opposite drawing) holding the pipes together.

Removal and installation

1. Clean the unions and the surrounding
areas.

2. Remove the unions of the injector pipes on

the fuel pump, and on the injectors.
Always remove the injector pipes as a
complete set.

3. Immediately plug the openings thus

created.

4. Remove the complete set.

5. The injector pipes must always be replaced

as a complete set.

6. Attach the set of injector pipes free from

stress.
If necessary, change the position of the fuel
pump. See “Removal and installation of fuel
pump”.
Remember that if the position of the fuel
pump is altered, the pump timing must be
reset. See “Checking and setting the pump
timing”.

7. Tighten the injector pipe unions to the

specified torque.
When tightening the unions, ensure that the
pipe is not turned.

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11.2 REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF INJECTORS

Removal
1. Clean the injectors and the surrounding
area.

2. Remove the complete set of injector pipes.

See “Removal and installation of injector
pipes”.

3. Remove the injector leak–off pipes from the

injector.

4. Remove the self–locking nut, the conical

ring and the injector clamp.

5. Remove the injector from the injector

sleeve, using the injector puller, special tool
DAF no.: 0694835. The use of this tool 1. Leak–off pipe
avoids the risk of the sleeve being pulled 2. Coupling
out of the cylinder head together with the 3. Hollow screw
injector. 4. Sealing ring
5. Hollow ring
6. Injector pipe
7. Self–locking nut
8. Washer
9. Conical ring
10. Injector clamp
11. Injector
12. O–ring
13. Sealing ring

6. Place sleeve 3 of the injector puller over the

injector.

7. Turn spindle 1 of the injector puller as far as

possible onto the connection of the injector
pipe, turning nut 2 sufficiently far back.

8. By turning nut 2 of the injector puller, the

injector is withdrawn from the injector
sleeve.

9. Check that the copper sealing ring has

been withdrawn from the injector sleeve, at
the same time as the injector.
If not, the sealing ring must now be
removed from the injector sleeve.

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Note:
If one or more sealing rings remains lodged in
the injector sleeve, the injector will be positioned
higher. As a result, instead of spraying into the
combustion chamber of the piston, it will spray
onto the piston rim. This can lead to serious
piston damage.

10. Plug the openings in the injector sleeve.

11. Remove the O–ring from the injector.

Installation
1. Clean the steel injector sleeve with a
scraper, special tool DAF no.: 1240074.
Apply grease to the scraper, so that any dirt
present will stick to the grease.

2. Following scraping, clean the injector

sleeve to remove any residual dirt.

3. Clean the injector before installation with a

hand–held copper wire brush.

Note:
The injectors must never be cleaned with a
rotating copper or steel wire brush.
This could lead to deformation of the nozzle
holes (see the opposite drawing), as a result of
which the quantities of injected fuel would
become insufficient.
Such deformation cannot be detected by
carrying out an injector test.
In the event of engine performance complaints,
if the injectors were cleaned in the past with a
rotating brush, they must be replaced.
The injectors may only be cleaned with a
hand–held copper wire brush.

4. Fit a new O–ring to the injector, and apply a

little acid–free grease.

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5. Apply a little acid–free grease to the new

sealing ring, and attach this to the injector.

6. Insert the injector into the injector sleeve,

with the leak–off pipe connection facing the
timing.

7. Fit the injector clamp and the conical ring.

8. Fit a new self–locking nut, and tighten this

to the specified torque.

9. Reconnect the injector leak–off pipes, using

new sealing rings.

10. Connect the injector pipes. See “Removal

and installation of injector pipes”.

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11.3 REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF FUEL PUMP

WARNING

When removing the fuel pipes, a quantity of

fuel will escape. This must be captured.
Remember fire hazard.

M2 00 113

1. Clip 13. O–ring

2. Cover 14. Attachment flange
3. O–ring 15. O–ring
4. Bolt 16. Wavy washer
5. Wavy washer 17. Bolt
6. Bolt 18. Ring
7. Clamping plate 19. Wavy washer
8. Gear 20. Bolt
9. Nut 21. Fuel pump
10. Washer 22. Bolt (only for P 3000 pump)
11. Drive hub 23. Washer (only for P 3000 pump)
12. Key

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Removal
1. Crank the engine to the commencement of
injection of the 1st cylinder.
See “Checking and setting the pump
timing”.

2. Remove the engine speed sensor from the

timing case.

3. Disconnect the boost control pipe.

4. Disconnect the engine brake operating

cylinder.

5. Remove the fuel pipes and capture any

escaping fuel. Plug the openings.

6. Remove the oil pipe. Plug the openings.

7. Remove the injector pipes. See “Removal

and installation of injector pipes”.

8. Remove the fuel pump flange attachment

bolt at the rear of the timing case.
With a P 3000 fuel pump, remove the two
attachment bolts at the rear of the fuel
pump.

9. Remove the four fuel pump flange

attachment bolts at the front of the timing
case, and remove the fuel pump with the
flange from the timing case.
Plug the opening in the timing case.

10. If necessary, remove the gear, the drive

hub, the attachment flange and the parts of
the throttle control system. The levers
connected directly to the fuel pump may not
be removed.

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Installation
1. With a new or overhauled fuel pump,
connect all relevant parts to the new fuel
pump.
If possible, attach the attachment flange in
the original position on the fuel pump, using
a new O–ring.
Tighten the nut on the drive hub to the
specified torque.

2. Check whether the flywheel for the engine

is still at the commencement of injection. If
not, crank the flywheel a number of degrees
counter to the direction of rotation of the
engine.
Then crank the flywheel in the direction of
rotation of the engine until the specified
commencement of injection is reached.

3. Remove the valve cover and check whether

the valves of the 1st cylinder are closed. If
not, the engine must be cranked through
one further revolution (360_) in the direction
of rotation of the engine.
Following this inspection, clean the sealing
faces of the valve cover, and fit the valve
cover, using a new gasket.

4. Clean the gear, the clamping plates and the

drive hub.
It is important that the contact surfaces be
clean.

5. Install the gear wheel and semi–tighten the

attachment bolts on the clamping plates.

6. Fit a new O–ring on the attachment flange,

lightly grease the ring, and connect the fuel
pump to the timing case.

7. Tighten the attachment bolts of the fuel

pump in a crosswise sequence to the
specified torque.

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8. Check whether the injector pipes can be

fitted free from stress.
If not, loosen the attachment bolts between
the fuel pump and the attachment flange.
Turn the fuel pump until the injector pipes
can be fitted free from stress.
Tighten the bolts which attach the fuel
pump to the attachment flange, ensuring
that the fuel pump does not turn during
tightening.

9. Fit the injector pipes. See “Removal and

installation of injector pipes”.

10. Reconnect the oil pipe, using new sealing

rings.

11. Reconnect the fuel pipes, using new sealing

rings.

Note:
Check whether the fuel return pipe is connected
to the pipe connection with a built–in pressure
regulating valve.

12. Connect the air cylinder of the engine

brake.

13. Connect the boost control pipe.

14. Connect the engine speed sensor.

15. Adjust the pump timing. See “Checking and

setting the pump timing”.

Note:
If when the pump timing has been set, the
attachment bolts for the fuel pump on the
attachment flange are loosened and the position
of the fuel pump altered in respect of the flange,
the pump timing must be reset.

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11.4 CHECKING AND SETTING THE PUMP TIMING

Note:
The pump timing can only be checked or set
using the special RIC (Remote Injection Control)
tool, developed by DAF, DAF no.: 0694981.
A setting pointer (A in the opposite drawing) has
been fitted in the fuel pump governor housing.
The RIC tool reacts to the movement of this
pointer.
The flange (B in the opposite drawing) in which
the RIC tool is fitted is factory–set, and sealed
with a security bolt. This setting may not be
changed.

M2 00 121

Checking the pump timing

1. Crank the engine in the direction of rotation
until the graduated scale on the flywheel
indicates the specified commencement of
injection (see the technical specifications
and the engine plate).

2. Clean the cover on the front of the timing

unit. Also clean the area surrounding the
cover.

3. Loosen the clip from the cover.

4. Screw an M12 bolt into the cover and

remove the bolt and cover from the timing
cover.

5. Remove the socket head screw from the M2 00 111

flange on the governor housing.
A little oil may escape from the opening.

6. Insert the RIC sensor in the flange opening

until it meets the stop.

7. Switch on the RIC tool and the display will

be illuminated.

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8. Crank the engine counter to the direction of

rotation, through several degrees.

9. Slowly crank the engine in the direction of

rotation until the RIC indicator shows the
maximum reading.
At this point, the RIC tool will display the
pump timing.
If the indicator goes off the scale, the RIC
tool should be withdrawn slightly from the
flange, and the measurement repeated, so
the indicator does not go off the scale.

Note:
The maximum reading of the indicator on the
RIC display will not be the same for all pumps.

10. Use the graduation on the flywheel to check

whether the commencement of injection is
within the tolerance limits.
Repeat the measurement several times.
If the measured commencement of injection
is beyond the tolerance limits, the timing
must be reset. See “Setting the pump
timing”.

11. Following the inspection, remove the RIC

tool from the flange, and tighten the socket
head screw, using a new sealing ring.

12. Inspect and if necessary clean the edge of

the cover and the groove of the clip.

13. When fitting the cover, use a new O–ring.

Slightly grease the ring and install the
cover.

14. Fit the clip, and check that it is correctly in

the groove, all round.

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Setting the pump timing

1. Crank the engine in the direction of rotation
until the graduated scale on the flywheel
indicates the specified commencement of
injection (see the technical specifications
and the engine plate).

2. Clean the cover on the front of the timing

unit. Also clean the area surrounding the
cover.

3. Remove the clip from the cover.

4. Screw an M12 bolt into the cover and

remove the bolt and cover from the timing
cover.
M2 00 111

5. Loosen the attachment bolts for the

clamping plates through several turns. The
gear will now no longer be clamped against
the drive hub.

6. Remove the socket head screw from the

flange on the governor housing.
A little oil may escape from the opening.

7. Insert the RIC sensor in the flange opening

until it meets the stop.

8. Switch on the RIC tool and the display will

be illuminated.

M2 00 127
9. Fit a socket spanner to the attachment nut
of the drive hub, and use the spanner to
turn the fuel pump shaft through a number
of degrees, counter to the direction of
rotation of the fuel pump.

Note:
During the turning of the fuel pump shaft, make
sure that the attachment nut does not become
loose. If necessary, tighten the attachment nut
to the specified torque.

M2 00 126

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10. Using the socket spanner, carefully rotate

the shaft of the fuel pump in the direction of
rotation of the fuel pump, until the RIC
indicator shows the maximum reading.
At this point, the RIC tool will display the
pump timing.
If the indicator goes off the scale, the RIC
tool should be withdrawn slightly from the
flange, and the measurement repeated, so
the indicator does not go off the scale.

Note:
The maximum reading of the indicator on the
RIC display will not be the same for all pumps.

11. Tighten the attachment bolts for the

clamping plates to the specified torque.
Ensure that whilst tightening the attachment
bolt, the drive hub does not move.

12. When you have tightened the attachment

bolts, once again check the pump timing.
See “Checking the pump timing”.
If the measured commencement of injection
is beyond the tolerance limits, the timing
must be reset.

13. Remove the RIC tool from the flange, and

tighten the socket head screw, using a new
sealing ring.

14. Inspect and if necessary clean the edge of

the cover and the groove of the clamping
spring.

15. When fitting the cover, use a new O–ring.

Slightly grease the ring and install the
cover.

16. Fit the clip, and check that it is correctly in

the groove, all round.

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English
Printed in the Netherlands DW032089