SWAYAM COURSE ON TEXTILE AND QUALITY ANALYSIS

COURSE CO-ORDINATOR, : Dr. A. SARADA DEVI

SUBJECT EXPERT & AUTHOR Former Dean of Home Science, ANGRAU,
Former Emeritus Scientist, ICAR,
Hyderabad.
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LESSON-1: INTRODUCTION TO TEXTILES - TERMINOLOGY - PART 1

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Objectives

1. To establish basic background required for understanding of the study of textiles

2. To study the basics of textiles and apprehend the terminology used

Introduction

All of us are consumers of textiles at every stage of our lives. From the earliest times, people
have used textiles of various types for covering or modesty, providing warmth, personal
adornment, to display personal wealth and even for biomedical and technical purpose. Today,
textiles have become an integral part of our lives marching much beyond serving the basic
needs of man.

The word textiles comes from the Latin term Textere, meaning ”Woven”. Today the word textile is
more generalized and refers to the product made from fibres. A fiber is defined as a fundamental
visible unit of textiles which is pliable hair like strand with high length to width ratio. Fibres are the
the building blocks used in the making of textile yarns and fabrics. A Yarn is a continuous stand of
fibres or filaments or materials twisted together. A fabric is a planar structure produced by interlacing
or interlooping of yarns.

With the advancement of science and technology, each day in its wake brings in lot of variety
of textiles to the market. The consumer is finding it difficult to make a selection of an
appropriate fabric for their specific enduse. The knowledge of textile science can aid
significantly to their selection. Consumers can develop a great appreciation for the fabrics with
the knowledge acquired. They can improve their ability in selection of fabrics for their enduse
based on performance among the wide variety of fabrics available in the market. The process
of selection can relatively be easy, if one has the knowledge about the fibre content, appearance,
use care. Maintenance, durability, comfort etc.

The knowledge and understanding of textiles is very important particularly for individuals who
are working in the soft good retail merchandising, interior design, apparel and fabric design or
positions related to production and distribution of textiles at various stages.

Reasons for Studying Textiles

§ A study of Textiles will show, for example why certain fabrics are more durable and therefore
more serviceable for specific purpose.
 § It will explain why certain fabrics make cool wearing apparel and others aid in providing
warmth.
§ Complete knowledge of textiles will facilitate an intelligent appraisal of standards and brands
of merchandise and will develop the ability to distinguish quality in fabrics.
§ The customers get idea about how to buy and what to buy.

Common Terminology

Length: Textile fibres should have more length than width in order to spin into yarn. A length to width
ration of 100:1 is considered minimum.

Filaments are long continuous fibres of indefinite length measured in yards or meters.

Staple fibres are the short fibres and are measured in inches or centimeters and range in length from
¾ " to 18".

Strength: The strength of a fibre is defined as the ability to resist stress & is expressed in grams per
denier (Tenacity). When it is measured in pounds / [Link] it is termed as Tensile strength.

Flexibility or Pliability: It is the capability of textile fibre to bend. Certain degree of flexibility or
pliability is necessary for a fibre to be used as a textile fibre.

Stiffness or rigidity: Is the opposite of flexibility. It is the resistance to bending or creasing.

Cohesiveness or Spinnability: Cohesiveness is the ability of the fibres to stick together during spinning.

Uniformity: In order to produce fine yarns, uniformity in the raw material is required. Fibres that are
used to produce yarns need to be similar in length and width, flexibility and in spinning quality.

Physical Shape: The physical shape of the fibre includes the surface contour (smooth, rough, serrated),
the shape of the cross section and the width and length of the fibre.

Density: Density is the mass of a unit volume of material. It is expressed as gms/cubic cm or pounds
per cubic foot. It influences the weight of the textile.

Lustre: Lustre is the amount of light reflected from a surface. The lustre is due to smoothness, fibre
length, flat or lobal shape. It determines the fibres natural brightness or dullness.

Cover: The ability to occupy space for concealment or protection.

Absorbency: Absorbency in the ability of textile fibres to take in moisture.

Moisture regain is the percentage of moisture a bone-dry fibre will absorb from the air under the
standard conditions of temperature and moisture.

Hydrophilic: Fibers are able to absorb water easily or water loving.

Hydrophobic: Fibers that have difficulty in absorbing water and are only able to absorb small amounts
are called hydrophobic. Example: All man made fibers expect rayon.
Hygroscopic: Those fibers, which absorb the moisture from air.

Wicking: Is the ability of a fiber to transfer moisture along its surface.

Elasticity: Elasticity is defined as the ability of fibres to return back to original shape after being
stretched.

Elongation: Is the ability to be stretched, extended, or lengthened. It varies at different temperatures

and when wet or dry

Elastic recovery is the ability of fibres to return from strain and is expressed in percentage.

Creep: It is delayed elasticity; recovers gradually from strain.

Crease or Wrinkle resistance: It is the ability of textile fabrics to resist creases or wrinkles

Resiliency: It is the ability of textiles to bounce back to shape when subjected to distortion.

Abrasion resistance: It is the ability of a fiber to withstand the rubbing or abrasion it gets in everyday
use. It contributes to fabric durability.

Hand: It is the way a fiber feels: silky, harsh, soft, crisp, dry.

Pilling: It is the balling up of fiber ends on the surface of fabrics.

Loft and Resiliency: It is the ability to spring back to original thickness after being compressed.

Electrical conductivity: Is the ability to transfer electrical charges.

Static Electricity: This is the electricity produced by the friction of a fabric against itself or some other
object. It becomes static on fabric surface if not conducted away and pose problems during use.

Feltability: It refers to the ability of fibers to mat together. Wool has natural ability to felt.

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