Basic Textile Knowledge – Quick Revision Guide
1. What is Textile?
• Definition: Any material made from fibres, yarns, or fabrics through processes like weaving,
knitting, felting, or non-woven bonding, used for apparel, home, and industrial purposes.
2. Textile vs Garments
Textile Garments
Raw to semi-finished products like fibre, yarn, fabric. Finished apparel made from textile fabrics.
Example: Cotton fabric, polyester yarn. Example: T-shirt, jeans.
3. Yarn
• Definition: A continuous strand of fibres twisted or spun together, used for making fabric.
4. Fibre
• Definition: The basic raw material for yarn and fabric; has a length-to-diameter ratio >100.
• Natural Fibres: Cotton, wool, silk, flax, jute.
• Synthetic Fibres: Polyester, nylon, acrylic, spandex.
5. Yarn Count Systems
• Definition: Number that expresses yarn thickness or fineness.
• Common Systems:
o Ne (English count): No. of hanks (840 yards) per pound. Higher = finer yarn.
o Nm (Metric count): No. of meters per gram.
o Denier: Weight in grams of 9,000 meters of yarn (lower = finer).
o Tex: Weight in grams of 1,000 meters of yarn.
6. Fabric & Types
• Fabric: A planar textile structure produced by interlacing, interlooping, or bonding fibres/yarns.
• Types: Woven, Knitted, Non-woven, Braided.
7. Grey Fabric
• Definition: Unfinished fabric straight from the loom or knitting machine before bleaching,
dyeing, or finishing.
8. Woven vs Knit vs Non-Woven
Woven Knit Non-Woven
Interlaced yarns at right
Interlooped yarns. Bonded fibres (chemical, thermal, or mechanical).
angles.
Stretchy, Disposable, often used in medical or industrial
Stable, less stretch.
comfortable. products.
9. GSM (Grams per Square Meter)
• Definition: Weight of fabric per square meter.
• Calculation:
GSM=Fabric weight (g)Fabric area (m²)GSM = \frac{\text{Fabric weight (g)}}{\text{Fabric area (m²)}}
10. Fabric Shrinkage
• Definition: Reduction in fabric dimensions after washing/drying.
• Test: Wash fabric, measure before & after, calculate % change.
11. Colour Fastness
• Definition: Resistance of fabric colour to fading or bleeding.
• Types: Wash fastness, rub fastness, light fastness, perspiration fastness.
12. Fabric Stretch & Recovery
• Stretch: Fabric’s ability to elongate under tension.
• Recovery: Ability to return to original dimensions after stretching.
13. Fabric Identification
• Methods:
o Burn test (odour, ash type)
o Microscopic analysis (fibre shape)
o Solubility test (chemical reaction)
o Feel & appearance
Knitting Technology – Quick Revision Guide
1. What is Knitting?
• Definition: A fabric manufacturing method where loops of yarn are intermeshed using needles
to produce fabrics with elasticity, comfort, and breathability.
2. Major Types of Knitting
1. Weft Knitting – Loops run horizontally (course-wise).
o Example: Circular knitting, flat knitting.
2. Warp Knitting – Loops run vertically (wale-wise).
o Example: Tricot, Raschel.
3. Common Knitted Fabric Types
• Single Jersey – Lightweight, stretchy, curls at edges.
• Rib – Alternating knit & purl wales; excellent elasticity.
• Interlock – Two rib structures interlocked; stable, thicker.
• Piqué – Textured surface; often used for polo shirts.
4. Special Fabrics
• Fleece Fabric: Knitted, then brushed on one or both sides to create a soft, warm pile surface.
• Terry Fabric: Has uncut loops on the surface; used in towels and bathrobes.
5. Knitting Faults & Causes
Fault Cause
Drop Stitch Needle malfunction or yarn breakage
Fault Cause
Hole Yarn break, wrong needle selection
Missed Loop Incorrect timing or yarn feeding
Oil Stain Machine lubrication leakage
Barre Yarn shade variation or tension difference
Spirality Improper twist balance, poor garment alignment
6. Common Knitting Machines & Origin
Machine Origin Country
Mayer & Cie Germany
Terrot Germany
Pailung Taiwan
Fukuhara Japan
Orizio Italy
Santoni Italy
7. Loop Length
• Definition: The total length of yarn in one knitted loop (including needle loop & sinker loop).
• Importance: Affects fabric GSM, strength, and elasticity.
8. Spirality & Barre
• Spirality: Twisting or skewing of fabric loops after washing due to yarn twist imbalance.
• Barre: Visible horizontal/vertical stripes due to uneven yarn dyeing, count, or tension.
Dyeing, Printing & Finishing – Quick Revision Guide
What is Dyeing?
• Definition: The process of applying colorants (dyes or pigments) to fibers, yarns, or fabrics to
impart color with desired fastness properties.
Major Dyeing Processes
1. Exhaust Dyeing: Fabric and dye bath are mixed; dye gradually absorbed by fabric (e.g., jet
dyeing).
2. Continuous Dyeing: Fabric continuously moves through dye solution and fixation (large scale).
3. Pad-Dry-Cure: Fabric is padded with dye, dried, then cured to fix dye.
Dyeing Auxiliaries
• Chemicals added to improve dyeing quality and efficiency.
• Examples:
o Wetting agents: Improve fabric wetting.
o Leveling agents: Ensure uniform dye distribution.
o Sequestering agents: Bind metal ions in water.
o Soaping agents: Remove unfixed dye.
Colour & Measurement
• Colour is visual perception from light reflection/absorption on textiles.
• Measured by spectrophotometer/colorimeter using CIELAB system (L*, a*, b* values).
Pantone
• Standardized colour matching system for consistent colour communication in design and
production.
What is Printing?
• Applying colourants to localized fabric areas to create patterns/designs.
Types of Printing
1. Screen Printing: Using mesh stencil to apply paste.
2. Heat Transfer Printing: Design transferred from paper to fabric with heat.
3. Digital Printing: Inkjet printing directly onto fabric.
4. Sublimation Printing: Dye sublimates under heat and bonds to polyester.
Discharge Printing
• Removing existing dye in parts of fabric to create design, sometimes replacing with another
colour.
Pigment Dyeing
• Pigments (insoluble particles) bonded with binders on fabric surface; used for casual/fashion
effects.
ETP (Effluent Treatment Plant)
• Treats wastewater from textile processing to remove harmful substances before discharge.
• Ensures environmental safety and compliance.
Garment Merchandising – Quick Revision Guide
What is Garment Merchandising?
• Definition: Planning, developing, and managing garment orders from buyers to ensure on-time
production, quality, and cost targets.
Role of a Merchandiser
1. Order Development: Understand buyer requirements.
2. Costing & Negotiation: Calculate costs, negotiate prices.
3. Sampling: Manage sample development.
4. Production Follow-up: Coordinate with factory production.
5. Quality Assurance: Ensure product meets quality standards.
6. Shipment & Documentation: Handle inspection, booking, shipping.
7. Problem Solving: Resolve production or supply chain issues.
Types of Merchandisers
• Production Merchandiser: Works inside factory monitoring production.
• Buying House Merchandiser: Acts as buyer’s agent between buyer & factory.
• Factory Merchandiser: Works at factory handling buyer relations.
• Liaison Office Merchandiser: Represents buyer’s office in manufacturing country.
Types of Samples
• Proto Sample: First sample to check design concept.
• Fit Sample: Checks garment fit and style.
• Size Set Sample: One sample per size to verify grading.
• Pre-Production Sample: Sample made before bulk production.
• Shipment Sample: Final sample from production lot before delivery.
Trims and Accessories
• Trims: Components sewn or attached to garment (buttons, zippers, labels).
• Accessories: Packing and presentation items (hangtags, polybags, cartons).
Consumption & Calculation
• Fabric amount required per garment.
• Formula: Consumption = (Garment length + allowances) × width usage ÷ fabric width.
SMV (Standard Minute Value) & Calculation
• Time in minutes to make one garment under standard conditions.
• Formula: SMV = (Observed Time × Performance %) × (1 + Allowance %).
Sewing & Stitch Types
• Joining fabric with thread using different stitches.
• Common stitches: Lock Stitch, Chain Stitch, Overlock, Cover Stitch, Zig-Zag.
Types of Sewing Machines
• Single Needle Lock Stitch
• Double Needle Lock Stitch
• Overlock
• Flatlock
• Button Sewing
• Buttonhole
• Bar Tack
• Zig-Zag
• Blind Stitch
• Feed-off-the-arm