Chapter 3

Sewing Thread
3.1. Introduction
Sewing thread may be defined as smooth, evenly spun, hard-twisted ply yarn, treated by a special
finishing process to make it resistant to stresses in its passage through the eye of a needle and
material involved in seaming and stitching operations. It joins different components of fabric by
forming a seam that primarily provides uniform stress transfer from one piece of fabric to another,
thus preserving the over-all integrity of the fabric assembly. The appearance, durability, and
general usefulness of garments and other articles depend significantly upon its performance. The
function of a sewing thread is to produce a seam or stitching of the required quality, the elements
of quality being style, durability, and utility.

Figure 3.1: Sewing thread.

Natural fibres, such as cotton, silk, and linen, and synthetic fibres in both continuous-filament and
staple-fibre yams are employed in a large range of sewing threads for apparel, domestic, and
industrial uses.

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 3.2. Types of Sewing Thread
A large variety of sewing threads is used in different fields of application of textile materials. Even
in non-textile items, such as those used in the leather trade, footwear etc., there is a need for sewing
threads. The majority of sewing threads used by the clothing industry are made from cotton and
polyester fibre.

3.2.1. Cotton Threads

[Link]. General Properties
Cotton threads in general provide a good sewing medium, but strength and abrasion-resistance are
inferior to synthetic-fibre threads of equal thickness. Cotton threads withstand high temperatures
better than synthetic-fibre threads and are therefore less affected by needle-heating in sewing and
by high-temperature pressing.

Cotton threads are of three types:

(a) soft,

(b) glace (polished), and

(c) mercerized.

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 Figure 3.2: Cotton sewing thread.

[Link]. Soft
This is the normal cotton thread, the type most commonly used in industrial sewing. Fewer
manufacturing processes are used in the production of this thread, which blends well with cotton
fabrics. Soft threads receive no special treatment other than bleaching or dyeing and the application
of a uniform, low-friction lubricant. The untreated fibres have a flattened ribbon-like appearance
with frequent convolutions (Fig. 3.3). Soft cotton threads generally have a high wet shrinkage,
which may cause pucker in seams after washing. Soft cotton threads are usually the cheapest
general-purpose sewing threads. Eagley soft cotton thread is produced from high-quality, long-
staple cotton for general-purpose sewing and is claimed to be an ideal choice for 100% post-dyed
cotton garments.

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 Figure-3.3: Soft cotton fibre.

[Link]. Glace or Polished

Glace cotton threads are produced from soft cotton threads that have been consolidated and
protected by the application of a special surface coating. This produces a stiffer thread with a
smoother surface and better resistance to abrasion than soft cotton types. Glace or polished threads
are used mainly on leather and for stitching heavy fabrics. They have to withstand severe
conditions during stitching and in use. For this purpose, the surface of the thread is protected and
the thread strengthened by coating it with a mixture of starch and lubricants. The surface is then
polished by high-speed rotating brushes to give the thread its typical glace or glazed appearance.
The surface finish is not pennanent and is removed by wet treatment. These threads are sometimes
used for decorative stitching.

[Link]. Mercerised
The highest-quality cotton threads are mercerised to make them lustrous and to improve their
strength. Mercerised threads, which are the most expensive, have slightly less twist than soft

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threads to al low satisfactory processing. These threads are widely used for domestic sewing,
general stitching, buttonholing, and embroidery and in the clothing industry. The mercerisation
process is performed through caustic soda treatment. This causes the cotton fibre to swell and
become rounder in section (Fig. 3.4), and this change is responsible for the improved lustre and
something like a 12% increase in tensile strength.

Figure-3.4: Mercerised cotton (cross-section).

3.2.2. Linen Threads

Threads spun from flax are stronger and stiffer than those of cotton and have been used in the past
for stitching footwear, tents, and tarpaulins as well as for button-attaching. These threads have also
been used in certain aerospace and military applications, but they are now mainly superseded by
modem synthetic-fibre threads.

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 Figure 3.5: 3-ply linen sewing thread.

3.2.3. Silk Threads

Silk is available both as the continuous filament that is extruded by the silk worm and as broken
filaments spun into a yam. It is also schappe-spun from long-staple fibre. An important
characteristic of a silk sewing thread is its high extensibility of about 20%, which, together with

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 Figure 3.6: 100% Silk button hole thread.

its high strength, makes it suitable for a wide range of uses. It has good lustrous appearance and
performance, but its high cost restricts its use mainly to couture and bespoke tailoring. Its only
common use in higher-volume manufacturing is as the thread used in short lengths for
pickstitching the edges of men's jackets and, in more expensive gannents, for machine buttonholes.

3.2.4. Synthetic-fibre Sewing Threads

[Link]. General Properties and Applications
The introduction of polyester fibre revolutionised the sewing-thread industry in the 1950s by
replacing silk, which cost significantly more and was more difficult to produce. Polyester fibre is
comparable with silk in its stress-strain curve, ensuring high strength under the cyclic load that
occurs in sewing. However, a major problem associated with polyester fibre was its high
coefficient of friction. Researchers solved this problem in developing its sewing thread by
finishing the polyester fibre with water-insoluble adhesives, which acted as lubricants. Synthetic-
fibre threads present no real problems so far as twist, colour, and uniformity are concemed. They
are stronger and have a greater resistance to abrasion than other threads.

a. Core-spun Threads

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 b. 100% Staple-fibre Thread
c. Continuous-filament Thread
i. Monofilament
ii. Multifilament
iii. Bonded Continuous-filament Thread
iv. False-twist-textured Polyester-fibre and Nylon Thread
v. Air-jet-textured Continuous-filament Thread
vi. Air-Jet-intermingled Polyester-fibre Thread

3.3. Sewing Threads for Specific Purposes

3.3.1. Introduction
Different kinds of sewing thread are manufactured depending upon their specific field of
application. Threads for use in apparel are required to have good stability to laundering and
ironing, with better seam appearance. The threads are also required to perform satisfactorily during
high-speed sewing operations. However, for some specific applications, sewing threads are
engineered to meet certain critical requirements. Sewing-thread characteristics are required to be
different for their uses in flame-retardant garments, clothing for extreme weather conditions,
garments for high-temperature applications, embroidery applications, geotextile applications, etc.
For different applications, the types of sewing thread and their characteristics vary widely.

3.3.2. Embroidery Applications

Embroidery threads are required for the large-scale production of decorative embroideries on
fabrics and garments, for motifs and badges applied by machine embroidery, and also specifically
for hand embroidery. Embroidery threads are usually made from long-staple combed mercerised
cotton, silk, viscose continuous-filament yams (higher-tenacity type), very fine textured polyester-
fibre continuous filament yams, etc. Blends of filaments are also used in order to modify the texture
and qualities of the threads.

3.3.3. High-temperature Applications

Threads for high-temperature applications are required to hold the seam and secure it in extreme
temperature conditions (between 260 and 1100°C). Threads are usually made from quartz, glass,
carbon, polytetrafiuoroethylene, steel, and aramid fibres. Military requirements and the growing

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demands of safety legislation have built a viable market for high-temperature threads in spite of
their higher cost.

3.3.4. Geotextile Applications

In many geotechnical and air-supported fabric structures, the seam constitutes one of the most
critical components in forming a wider fabric from the available narrow fabrics. Sewing is
generally preferred because of its simplicity and its ability to maintain the elasticity of the fabric
structure. Polyester- and polypropylene-fibre threads are the most-used threads, since these are the
principal materials used for geotextiles. For demanding applications, high-tenacity fibres such as
Kevlar are used.

3.4. Size
The over-all thickness of the final thread is variously referred to as 'grist', 'size', 'tkt no.', or 'count'.
Threads are produced in a range of sizes to suit a wide variety of end-uses. When choosing a thread
for a particular application, the thread type (cotton, spun polyester-fibre, core-spun, etc.) and size
or ticket number must be specified.

For example, a thread of Nm 80/2 is Tkt 120, one of Nm30/3 is Tkt 30, one of Nm 20/1 is Tkt 60,
and one of Nm 40/2 is Tkt 60. This shows that the same ticket number, i.e. 60, can be used for two
or more different thread constructions, but, to the user, the size of the final thread is the same.

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Figure 3.7: Count change during thread manufacture.

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A particular thread type comes only in certain discrete sizes and covers only a size range
appropriate to the end-use of the thread. Table 3.1 shows uses of threads of different ticket
numbers.

Table 3.1: Typical thread sizes and uses (Spun Polyester-fibre or Polyester-fibre/ Cotton Core-
spun Thread)

However, the choice of thread size is also greatly influenced by many factors, as mentioned
previously.

3.5. Finish
The final aspect of thread construction is that of surface finish, the most important type of finish
being lubrication. The requirement of a lubricating finish applied to a sewing thread is that it
confers better sew ability and seam performance. A good sewing finish on a modern thread has a
threefold function:

(i) to produce a consistently uniform level of lubrication to ensure a regular passage of the
thread through the sewing machine with a controlled stitch balance;
(ii) to protect the thread from the heat of the sewing needle while helping to lubricate the
needle and dissipate some of its heat; and
(iii) to protect the thread from repeated abrasive cycles through the fabric, the needle, and
other thread-handling parts.

3.6. Characteristics of Sewing Threads

Fabric quality alone does not fulfil all the criteria for the production of high-quality garments. The
conversion of a two-dimensional fabric into a three-dimensional garment involves many other
interactions. In this regard, the characteristics of sewing threads play a vital role in deciding sew
ability.

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In brief, the characteristics required of a sewing thread can be defined as:

(i) the ability of the sewing thread to meet the functional requirements of producing the
desired seam effectively; and
(ii) the ability of the sewing thread to provide the desired aesthetics and serviceability in
the seam.

3.7. Performance during Sewing

3.7.1. Scope
Sewing-thread performance is very much dependent on the stresses generated during sewing, the
various aspects of which have already been discussed in the previous section. However, in the
earlier section, we mainly emphasized various external stresses, which, coupled with the thread
characteristics in the dynamic state, influence its performance. Thread performance is also
dependent upon other factors, such as the size of the thread in relation to the needle size and fabric,
balanced twist, the level of imperfections, tensile and frictional properties, and heat stability.

3.7.2. Bulk Properties

[Link]. Freedom from Snarling
This is one of the primary requirements for the sewing thread to ensure its satisfactory
performance. Incorrect twist levels may result in a loop's being unstable at its point of formation,
leading to the hook or looper splitting the thread plies or missing the thread altogether and resulting
in a slipped stitch. Most often, a twist-deadening and heat-setting process is essential to make the
sewing thread snarl-free.

[Link]. Imperfections
All sewing threads should have the highest degree of uniformity in all their properties and
characteristics. A sewing thread moves through the eye of a sewing-machine needle many times
before it forms a stitch. Any non-uniformity on the thread surface will deter the smooth passage
of the thread through the eye of the needle. For optimum seam appearance, the smallest needle that
will allow the sewing thread to make multiple passes through the needle eye without excessive
abrasion and/or thread breakage should be used. The most common excuse for poor sewing
performance is that of the presence of imperfections in the sewing thread. The incidence of

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imperfections (knots, thick slubs, neps, etc.) in the finished thread must be kept to an acceptably
low level in order to ensure the optimum sewing performance.

3.7.3. Mechanical Properties of Threads

[Link]. Tensile Properties of Threads
In order to withstand various stresses during sewing, a thread must posses adequate strength and
elongation. Breaking elongation is important as one factor involved in assessing seam stretch. On
its own, it is not important in relation to a thread's sewing performance. The tenacity and extension
at break of any particular sewing thread depend on a number of factors, including the raw materials
and the type of processing for the intended end-use. The tensile properties of five classes of sewing
thread are given in Table 3.2.

Table 3.2: Comparison of tensile properties of sewing threads.

Figure-3.8: Stress-strain curves of various sewing threads.

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3.8. Thread-Production Methods
3.8.1. Outline
The manufacture of sewing threads is much more complex than most clothing technicians imagine.
The thread has to be of a much higher quality than a weaving or knitting yam and thus has to pass
through more processes, gradually reforming the thread so that it can be used without breakage on
modem machines running at speeds of up to 10 000 stitches per minute. The thread-production
method varies depending upon the type of sewing thread. The production method for cotton is
longer than that for 100% synthetic-fibre staple-fibre thread. The process sequence for core-spun
yam is only different at the final spinning stage (Fig. 3.9). The various steps involved in the
production of synthetic-fibre-based threads are illustrated in the schematic diagram in Fig. 3.10.
One typical process sequence of air-jet-textured sewing thread is shown in Fig. 3.11.

3.8.2. Singles-yarn Preparation

Depending on the manufacturing techniques used, a singles yam can be classified as:

(a) staple-fibre spun yam;

(b) core-spun yam;

(c) monofilament;

(d) multifilament;

(e) bonded filament;

(f) false-twist-textured yam;

(g) air-jet-textured yam; or

(h) air-j et-intermingled yam.

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Figure-3.9: Process sequence of core- spun sewing threads.

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Figure-3.10: Process sequence of synthetic fibre threads.

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Figure-3.11: Process sequence of textured sewing threads.

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3.9. Types of Thread Package
In order that thread should sew well, it must be presented to the machine in a satisfactory way. It
must be possible to purchase it in economically large or small quantities, while still having the
right number of separate packages available for use on multi-thread machines. It is sold by length
rather than by weight and in a variety of types of package, appropriate to the thread type and its
end-use. To meet the requirements of all stitching trades, different types of thread package are
available, and their design is constantly reviewed and modified as necessary to maintain
performance in line with any new developments in sewing machines. Examples of commonly
available thread packages are shown in Fig. 3.12.

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 Figure-3.12: Thread package (not to scale).

Different types of thread package and their uses are discussed below.

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3.9.1. Spools
Spools are small flanged bobbins, traditionally wooden but now universally moulded in plastics.
These contain a relatively short length of thread, which is generally parallel-wound, although
cross-winding is possible on modem machines. Spools are used mainly in domestic sewing
operations. Although the shape has been improved in recent years to meet the demands of more
sophisticated domestic sewing machines, spools are not suitable for delivering threads to high-
speed industrial machines. However, spool threads are still used to some extent on slower
industrial machines, in footwear and leather-goods manufacture, and in some industrial hand
sewing operations. Spools are technically capable of holding any type of sewing thread, although,
in practice, they would not be practicable for certain types, such as textured thread.

3.9.2. Cops
Cops are small, cylindrical, flangeless tubes onto which thread is cross-wound for stability. The
lack of flanges facilitates regular off winding on industrial sewing machines, principally lockstitch
types, although their small diameter makes them well suited to the faster thread off-take of
machines such as overlocks. Cops are popular in the fashion trades, where a variety of shades are
used and production runs in any one colour are fairly short. They are available in medium lengths,
generally from nylon or core-spun threads, but are not usually suited to glace-finish threads or fine
filament threads, for which spillage would be a problem. Cones are more accurately described as
fmstums of geometric cones onto which thread is cross wound for stability and good off winding
performance. They contain relatively long lengths, 5000 m and more of soft or mercerised cotton,
spun-polyester-fibre, and core-spun threads. They give trouble-free thread delivery at intermittent
or continuous high speeds, and this, combined with their length capacity, makes them ideal for use
on class 400 chainstitch, class 500 overedge-stitch, class 600 covering-stitch, and class 800
combination-stitch machines, whereby stops for retlireading can be minimised.

3.9.3. Cones
Cones are therefore the most economical packages for conventional sewing threads in situations
in which thread consumption is high and production runs are long, with limited shade/thread
changes. They are ideal where the sewing room is highly automated.

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3.9.4. Vicones
Vicones may be parallel tubes or low-angled cones with an additional base in the form of a railed
fiange, which may incorporate a small lip. Vicones may contain short or long lengths of polished
or continuous-filament threads. They are designed (hence the lip) to contain any spillage that may
occur in off winding these smooth threads, with no snagging or trapping when the slack thread is
taken up.

3.9.5. Containers
Containers are constructed to handle lively monofilament threads that would be difficult to control
on standard packages. An exceptionally large spool of thread is held within the container, which
often incorporates an extra lubricant application of the thread-draw-off point.

3.9.6. Cocoons
Cocoons are self-supporting, i.e. centre less, thread packages, specially designed for insertion in
the shuttle of multi-needle quilting machines and some types of embroidery machine. Pre-wound
bobbins are precision-wound thread packages designed to replace metal bobbins on a variety of
lockstitch machines. Conventional bobbins in these machines are inconvenient and inefficient,
since time is lost in starting up an empty bobbin on its winder after removing a full one, thread
tensions and lengths are variable, and faulty build-up of thread on the bobbin may cause jamming
in the bobbin case. They also inhibit over spin during stitching, a particular problem on zigzag
machines.

3.9.7. Prewound
Prewound bobbins generally contain more thread, and the length is guaranteed. The effective
choice of thread package is linked with the thread and machine type and the productivity in the
sewing room. The advantage in the use of fine thread is the greater length carried by the package.
The packages employed have been designed to suit most types of sewing machine in use today.
Their detailed design is constantly reviewed and modified, as necessary, to maintain performance
in line with any new developments in sewing machines. It is not always appreciated how critical
is the relationship between well-wound and well-presented thread packages and actual end-user
performance and technical economy.

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3.10. Testing and Quality Control
There are numerous tests available for assessing the quality of sewing threads. The tests that are
usually conducted by the manufacturer are for bulk, mechanical, and colour properties. The
mechanical tests are quasi-static in nature. A number of papers have highlighted different
characteristics of sewing thread based on quasi-static tests. However, the most critical test for
sewing threads is their 'sewability' in the dynamic state.

i. Sew ability

ii. Bulk Properties of Threads

a. Diameter

b. Yarn Number

c. Imperfections

d. Twist and Twist Balance

e. Length per Thread Holder

f. Shrinkage of a Single End

iii. Mechanical Properties

a. Strength and Elongation

b. Abrasion-resistance

c. Other Properties

iv. Color Properties

a. Colour matching
b. Colour fastness

v. Yellowing

Table 3.3 shows some of the above bulk and mechanical properties of various sewing threads.

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 Table 3.3: Typical sewing-thread properties.

Table 3.4: Thread selection chart.

3.11. End-Uses
Sewing threads are widely used in clothing manufacture, outdoor applications, high-temperature
applications, geotextiles, etc. They have several textile and non-textile applications. Useful
statistics on thread usage are difficult to obtain. The data that follow are based on the standard
industrial classification ofthe Central Statistical Office, which classifies production establishments
according to their main activity. Manufacturers in each production class (particularly in clothing)
normally make a range of products so there is a good deal of overlap between classes. Some 80%
of all sewing threads produced are used by the clothing industries..

Selecting the type of sewing thread and its size for a particular application is very important to the
thread perfomiance during sewing and afterwards in the seam. However, the choice is not always

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easy. It depends on many factors, including seam strength, fabric weight and type, end-use, stitch
type, seam type, needle size, and several others. The ultimate choice of thread lies with the garment
designer and the gamient technologist taking account of aesthetic and technical considerations.
The uses of thread are also determined by the technological development of machines and fashion
trends. For instance, in the case of 100% cotton garments that are dyed after being made-up, soft
cotton threads are the only choice open to the garment maker.

Table 3.5: Sewing threads for apparel industry.

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3.12. Mathmatical Problems
Problem-1: A ply yarn is composed of three single yarns of different linear density. Linear density
of each single yarn is 210 denier, 24 tex and 37 worsted. Consider the contraction percentage 4.
Find out the linear density of that plied yarn in denier.

Problem-2: A ply yarn of linear density of 18 Worsted is produced from three single yarns. Linear
density of two single yarns is 40 Ne and 44 Worsted. Find out the linear density of another
component in Woollen (Yorkshire, Skein) system. Assume the contraction percentage.

Problem-3: A cable yarn is composed of two-ply yarns. Both ply yarn is produced from single
yarn of same profile. Linear density of each single yarn is 38 tex. Contraction percentage of plied
and cabled is kept 6 and 4 during processing respectively. Find out the Linear Density of that
cabled yarn in Ne.

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Problem-4: A cabled yarn is produced of two-plied yarns. Each plied yarn is produced from single
yarn of different profile. Linear density of two single yarns is 38 tex and 360 denier. Contraction
percentage of ply and cabled is kept 8 and 5 during processing accordingly. Find out the Linear
Density of that cabled yarn.

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