Chapter 5
Lesson 1: Dressmaking Tools, Materials and Equipment
Identify dressmaking tools, materials and equipment
Introduction
What is dressmaking?
The dictionary defines this as the art of sewing clothes and dresses like
sewing a beautiful dress from a fabric. The individual who sews clothing for women
is commonly known as dressmaker. A dressmaker may also cater to the needs of
men depending on her training, but usually a tailor does the job. Men and women
have different body shapes that call for different techniques in pattern drafting,
fabric cutting, designing and sewing. However, it is beneficial for a dressmaker or
tailor if he/she can sew clothes both for male and female.
Sewing Tools and Equipment
The dressmaker needs quality tools and equipment in sewing. Good
performance is important for long-lasting satisfaction of your customers. hence
selection of your sewing machine and sewing tools are important. The correct tools
and equipment will make your work lighter and easier. These tools and equipment
are of different classifications and will be discussed in the succeeding section.
Classification of Sewing Tools and Materials
•Measuring Tools
Measuring tape. This is also commonly known
as tapeline. It is used to take body measurement and
made of non-stretchable strip. It has two calibrated
sides: one side measures 150 centimeters, and the other
side is 60 inches.
1. Sewing gauge. It is used to measure small hem
areas and short distances such as hem folds, seam
allowance, buttonholes, seams and tucks. This is
a six-inch ruler made of aluminum or stiff cardboard
provided with a slider for easy movement in taking
the body measurement.
2. Ruler. This is a common measuring device used
by everyone including the dressmaker. It has a 12-inch
length and made of wood or plastic. It is used to
connect two points in connecting two lines specifically
in drafting pattern.
3. Meter stick or yard stick. This is used to measure cloth
or fabric by meter or yard, marked off in centimeters
and millimeters and usually made of wood or steel.
•Drafting tools
1. L-square. This is an aluminum nuler with 90
degrees angle used in drawing perpendicular fines
and to measure off parallel lines. Used to construct
lines by connecting its two arms perpendicularly.
The long arm has breakdown measurements
of 1-24; 1-12; 1-6,1-3; and 2-3 while the short arm
has breakdown measurements of 1-32; 1-16; 1-8; 1-4
and 1-2.
2. Hip curve. As the name suggests, it is a curve
stick used to form the hipline and other areas of
the garments which has curve section or parts.
This is made of metal with calibration on both
sides.
3. French curve. This is used to shape the neckline,
armholes and collars during the drafting of pattem
or cutting the fabric ready for sewing.
•Cutting tools
1. Shears. These are used for cutting fabric, paper and materials different kinds of
shears for specific purpose.
There are Types of shears:
a. Cutting shears are used for cutting fabrics. Their blades
are straight and usually 7-12 inches long and usually made
of stainless steel.
b. Pinking shears used to cut the edge of seam allowance
of fabric that does not ravel due to its zigzag edge.
This can also be used in cutting decorative materials.
C. Scalloping shears used to cut parts of garments with a
series of uniform scallops as it has scallop blades.
2. Scissors. These are used for cutting hanging threads,
excess fabrics coming out from seam. This is also the type
used to trim hair and other purposes. Some scissors are
made of a combination of plastic and metal, others are all
metal or stainless steel material.
3. Buttonhole scissors. This is a special kind of scissors
used for making or cutting buttonholes. The blades have
square shape found at the joint of scisssors to control the
cutting the fabric or cloth off the buttonhole area.
4. Embroidery scissors. These are used in embroidery
work in cutting fine delicate cloth and thread.
They are sharp pointed scissors usually 4-5 inches long.
5. Seam ripper. This is used in cutting off stitches of a seam.
During the ripping process, extra care must be taken to
prevent the cloth from being damaged.
•Marking tools
1. Tailor's chalk. This is used to mark the fabric and pattern paper.
This is available in different colors and is made of hard chalk.
Markings on the fabric can be removed by brushing.
2. Tracing wheel. It is used to trace the lines in the pattern
to penetrate to the fabric. Its serrated edge produces the
dots on the fabric and the smooth edge the solid line
3. Dressmaker's carbon paper. This is specially waxed
carbon paper fitted underneath the fabric so the tracing
wheel's marking will be transferred to the fabric.
Different brands are available in the market with different
instructions.
•Sewing aids
1. Pin. This is used to fasten or hold two or three fabrics
or materials together. There are two kinds of pins,
one with colored rounded head for easy handling and
the other one is with a small steel head.
2. Pin cushion. This is a small-size cushion used to hold pins
and needles for safekeeping. Scattering on the floor of needles
is a risk for dressmakers and other workers should be avoided.
3. Hand needles. These are used for temporary stitches,
hemming, and other hand sewing purposes. There are
different sizes available in the market to suit the kind of fabric
to be sewn.
4. Thimble. This is a small cup used to protect the finger
from being pricked by the needle during sewing it placed
on the tip of the middle finger which is the usual finger that
pushes the needle while hand sewing.
5. Threader. This is used to insert thread to the needle eye it
has a diamond shaped wire attached to a handle made of thin
material made of a thin plate aluminum...
Body Measurements for Men and Women Apparels
The success of a dressmaker or tailor is manifested in the satisfaction of her/his
customers. He/she can even help customers in choosing the garment style and the
kind of fabric appropriate for a particular design. But first and foremost, accurate
body measurements is of vital importance to get the best results. The following are
the different measurements taken both for men and women:
1. Shoulder-Position the end of the tape measure on the shoulder tip passing the
nape across the other shoulder tip.
2. Length of shirt-This is taken from the nape down to the desired length
3. Bust-Place the tape measure around the fullest part of the bust inserting two
fingers in it.
4. Waist-Place the tape measure around the fullest part of the waist.
5. Hip-Position the tape measure in line and around the fullest part of the hips.
6. Chest - Starting from the shoulder point, measure 4" downward and put the tape
measure around the chest.
7. Bust height-measure from the shoulder base neck down to the bust point.
8. Bust distance - taken from one bust point to another bust point.
9. Length of sleeve - Measure from shoulder tip point to the desired length.
10. Short sleeve circumference/girth - From the measured short sleeve length,
place the tape measure around the arms with the desired circumference.
11. Full bodice length - This is the measure from the shoulder base neck to the
waistline.
Points to Remember in Taking Body Measurements
Taking accurately the body measurements depends largely on the competence of
the dressmaker or tailor in doing the job. The dressmaker has to keep a Personal
Measurement Record (PMR) to register the measurements of the client. The record
has to be kept for reference purposes when the client returns the next time around.
Before taking the body measurements of the client, it is advisable to have an
assistant who will take note or record the measurement while you, as dressmaker,
do the task. The following are important guides:
1. Request the client politely to stand straight while taking the body measurements.
Things inside the pockets like wallet, cellphone and handkerchiefs have to be
removed to be able to get the accurate measurements. As much as possible, the
client wears a well-fitted garment to get a good result of the sewn fabric.
2. Use a soft flexible brand of tape measure as this will lay flat on the part of
the body to be measured.
3. Tie a string around the waistline of the client. This will be your point of reference
while taking the measurements.
4. You can start taking measurements either vertical or horizontal.
5. When measuring lengths, allow the tape measure to hang freely for accurate
measurements.
An example format for the PMR of your client is given as your guide.