Subject: Textile Technology
Processing of Wool — A Brief Outline
1. Shearing
Wool is clipped from sheep once a year (spring/early summer).
Done by hand shears or electric clippers.
The fleece is removed in one piece wherever possible.
Average yield: 3 – 10 kg per sheep depending on breed.
2. Grading & Sorting
Fleeces are sorted by quality, fineness, length and colour.
Staple length and fibre diameter (microns) are assessed.
Belly wool, leg wool and neck wool are separated out.
Graded fleeces fetch higher market prices.
3. Scouring (Washing)
Raw wool (greasy wool) contains lanolin, dirt, suint & vegetable matter.
Fleeces pass through a series of warm-water bowls with detergent.
Mechanical rollers squeeze out dirty water between bowls.
Typically 4 – 6 scouring bowls followed by rinsing bowls.
Temperature kept ~50 – 60 °C to avoid felting.
Clean wool (scoured wool) is dried in a hot-air tunnel.
4. Carbonising (optional)
Removes vegetable matter (burrs, seeds, grass) chemically.
Wool is treated with dilute sulphuric acid, then baked.
Vegetable cellulose is charred and crushed out; wool is unaffected.
Neutralised with soda-ash solution and re-dried.
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5. Carding
Opens and disentangles scoured fibres into a thin web.
Rollers covered with fine wire teeth (card clothing) pull fibres apart.
Produces a continuous rope of fibre called a sliver.
Removes remaining short fibres (noils) and any debris.
Woollen system: carded slivers go directly to spinning.
Worsted system: carded slivers proceed to combing.
6. Combing (Worsted route only)
Aligns fibres parallel and removes short fibres (noils).
Produces a smooth, lustrous top for worsted spinning.
Results in finer, stronger and more uniform yarn.
7. Drawing & Roving
Slivers / tops are drafted (drawn out) to reduce thickness.
Multiple slivers are combined and attenuated on draw frames.
Roving frame applies slight twist to give coherence before spinning.
Produces a roving — a loosely twisted strand ready for the spinner.
8. Spinning
Roving is attenuated to final yarn count and twisted for strength.
Ring spinning is most common; also mule, open-end spinning.
Woollen yarn: bulky, soft, less twist — blankets, tweeds.
Worsted yarn: smooth, fine, high twist — suiting, hosiery.
9. Dyeing
Can be done at fibre (top), yarn or fabric stage.
Acid dyes most common for wool (good affinity, bright shades).
Mordants (chrome, alum) improve wash fastness.
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10. Weaving / Knitting
11. Finishing
Milling / Fulling: fabric is wetted and pressed to felt slightly — adds body.
Raising (Napping): wire-covered rollers lift surface fibres to create a nap.
Cropping / Shearing: surface fibres are cut to a uniform height.
Pressing / Decatising: fabric is steamed and pressed for a smooth handle.
Shrink-resist treatment (e.g. Superwash) — chlorination + polymer coating.
Anti-pilling, moth-proofing and stain-resistance treatments may follow.
Summary Flow Chart
1. Shearing
2. Grading & Sorting
3. Scouring (Washing)
4. Carbonising (opt.)
5. Carding
6. Combing (Worsted)
7. Drawing & Roving
8. Spinning
9. Dyeing
10. Weaving / Knitting
11. Finishing
* Woollen route skips combing. Worsted route includes combing for finer yarn.
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