Armadillo

A crochet pattern by June Gilbank

© 2015 June Gilbank

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Materials
 All instructions are applicable for any worsted weight yarn. You will need less than 1 skein of yarn (approx
135m) in a suitable colour (e.g. grey, light brown, beige).
 Suggested hook size (see Gauge, below): E US/3.5mm
 For my Armadillo, I used Bernat Satin in Beige Mist Heather.

Size
Approx 13" (33cm) long. (Your gauge and yarn choice will affect the finished size slightly.)

Gauge
Gauge is unimportant for this pattern, provided the pieces are crocheted sufficiently tightly that they will not
gape visibly when stuffed. To test a swatch, crochet the first 3 rounds and then push a piece of fibrefill behind it:
 If the stitches stretch open too much and the fibrefill is clearly visible, reduce the hook size.
 If you cannot insert the hook into the previous stitches, reduce your tension (crochet more loosely) or
increase the hook size.

Notions
 Polyester fibrefill stuffing
 2 eyes (approx 10mm diameter): animal (safety) eyes recommended
Alternatives: black buttons or beads, felt circles, or embroidery
 Yarn needle to weave in ends
 Stitch markers

Terminology
Standard/US UK/Aus
BL back loop back loop
ch chain chain
ch-sp chain space chain space
FL front loop front loop
fsc foundation single crochet (see p2) foundation double crochet
sc single crochet double crochet
sc2tog single crochet decrease (see p2) double crochet decrease
sl st slip stitch slip stitch
st stitch stitch
invdec invisible decrease. For instructions, see [Link]/invdec
Note: If you prefer, you may use a standard sc2tog decrease in place of each invdec.
magic ring The magic ring method gives a better finish as it doesn’t leave a hole in the middle.
For instructions, see [Link]/magicring. If you prefer, you may substitute:
Ch 2. Rnd 1: 6 sc in 2nd chain from hook. for Make a magic ring, ch 1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring.

Notes
 Do not join at the end of each round; rounds are worked in continuous spirals.
 Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of each round. Move the marker up as you start each new round.

[Link] -1- © 2015 June Gilbank

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Special Stitches (for Body Armour, p6)

Foundation single crochet (fsc)
This technique creates both the foundation chain and a row of single crochet stitches in one row. It makes a stretchy
foundation, and is far easier to work into than a chain.
 First fsc stitch: ch 2, insert hook into second chain from hook and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw
through one loop on hook (this forms the chain), yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook (this forms
the single crochet). (1 fsc completed)
 Each subsequent fsc stitch is worked under the 2 loops that form the chain at the bottom of the previous
stitch. Insert hook under both loops of the chain, draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through one loop on
hook (this forms the chain), yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook (this forms the single crochet).

Sc2tog over next 2 ch-sp:

Insert hook into next ch-sp, yarn over
and draw up a loop, insert hook into
next ch-sp, yarn over and draw up a
loop, yarn over and draw through all 3
loops on hook.

Right-handed Left-handed

Working into the ch-sp on the row following a sc2tog over next 2 ch-sp:
After turning your work, it may not
be obvious where to insert your
hook to find the ch-sp following a
sc2tog.
As a decrease is wider than a sc, the
ch-sp is actually further forward
than you might expect: insert your
hook just before the next sc and
you'll be in the right place.
Right-handed: The ch-sp is just to Left-handed: The ch-sp is just to
the right of the sc after the sc2tog. the left of the sc after the sc2tog.

Stitch Diagram: Reduced Sample of Armour

Key
foundation single crochet (fsc)

single crochet (sc) in BL only

single crochet (sc)

chain (ch)

[Link] -2- © 2015 June Gilbank

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Head
worked from snout back
Make a magic ring, ch 1.
Rnd 1: 4 sc in magic ring. (4 st)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around. (8 st)
Rnd 3: in BL only, sc in each st around. (8 st)
Rnd 4: in both loops from now on, (2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 st) twice. (10 st)
Rnd 5: sc in each st around. (10 st)
Rnd 6: (2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 st) twice. (12 st)
Rnd 7: sc in each st around. (12 st)
Rnd 8: (2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 st) three times. (15 st)
Rnd 9: sc in each st around. (15 st)
Note: In the next round (Rnd 10), complete the increase, then mark the stitch you have just completed by slipping a
stitch marker or a scrap of contrasting yarn through the stitch before you continue. This marks the top of the
head and will be a reference for the position of the eyes.
Rnd 10: sc in next 8 st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 6 st. (16 st)
Rnd 11: sc in each st around. (16 st)
Rnd 12: (2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 st) four times. (20 st)
Rnd 13: sc in each st around. (20 st)
Rnd 14: (2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 st) four times. (24 st)
Rnd 15: sc in next 15 st, invdec, sc in next 7 st. (23 st)
Rnd 16: sc in next 14 st, invdec, sc in next 7 st. (22 st)
Rnd 17: sc in next 12 st, invdec, sc in next st, invdec, sc in next 5 st. (20 st)
Rnd 18: sc in each st around. (20 st)
Join with sl st to next st. Fasten off, leaving long end to attach head to body.

Ear (make 2)
Make a magic ring, ch 1.
Rnd 1: 4 sc in magic ring. (4 st)
Rnd 2: (2 sc in next st, sc in next st) twice. (6 st)
Rnd 3: (2 sc in next st, sc in next st) three times. (9 st)
Rnd 4: (2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 st) three times. (12 st)
Rnds 5-7: sc in each st around. (12 st)
Rnd 8: (invdec, sc in next 2 st) three times. (9 st)
Join with sl st to next st. Fasten off, leaving long end to attach ear to head.

Leg (make 4)
Make a magic ring, ch 1.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring. (6 st)
Rnd 2: (2 sc in next 2 st, sc in next st) twice. (10 st)
Rnds 3-6: sc in each st around. (10 st)
Rnd 7: (2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 st) twice. (12 st)
Rnd 8: sc in each st around. (12 st)
Join with sl st to next st. Fasten off, leaving long end to attach leg to body.

[Link] -3- © 2015 June Gilbank

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Body
worked from neck back
Make a magic ring, ch 1.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring. (6 st)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around. (12 st)
Rnd 3: (2 sc in next st, sc in next st) six times. (18 st)
Rnd 4: (2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 st) six times. (24 st)
Rnd 5: sc in each st around. (24 st)
Note: In the next round (Rnd 6), complete the repeated section twice, then mark the stitch you have just completed
by slipping a stitch marker or a scrap of contrasting yarn through the stitch before you continue. This marks
the top of the body.
Rnd 6: sc in next 12 st, (2 sc in next st, sc in next st) four times, sc in next 4 st. (28 st)
Rnds 7-10: sc in each st around. (28 st)
Rnd 11: sc in next 16 st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 8 st. (30 st)
Rnds 12-15: sc in each st around. (30 st)
Rnd 16: sc in next 18 st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 8 st. (32 st)
Rnds 17-22: sc in each st around. (32 st)
Rnd 23: sc in next 19 st, invdec, sc in next 2 st, invdec, sc in next 7 st. (30 st)
Rnds 24-26: sc in each st around. (30 st)
Rnd 27: sc in next 17 st, (invdec, sc in next st) three times, sc in next 4 st. (27 st)
Rnds 28-30: sc in each st around. (27 st)
Rnd 31: sc in next 16 st, (invdec, sc in next st) three times, sc in next 2 st. (24 st)
Rnd 32: sc in each st around. (24 st)
Rnd 33: (invdec, sc in next 2 st) six times. (18 st)
Rnd 34: (invdec, sc in next st) six times. (12 st). Stuff body through hole.
Rnd 35: invdec six times. (6 st)
Fasten off, stitch the remaining hole closed and weave in the end.

Tail Note: When you crochet the tail armour, you'll

Make a magic ring, ch 1. be using the front loops that you leave
Rnd 1: 4 sc in magic ring. (4 st) unworked as you crochet the tail .
Rnd 2: 2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 st. (5 st) Make sure your tail is the right way out
Rnd 3: in BL only, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 st. (6 st) before you stuff it – the unworked front
Rnd 4: in both loops, sc in each st around. (6 st) loops must be visible on the outside of
Rnd 5: in BL only, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 5 st. (7 st) the tail (as shown by the pale highlights
Rnd 6: in both loops, sc in each st around. (7 st) in Figure 2, p5).
Rnd 7: in BL only, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 6 st. (8 st) If your spiral line is on the inside, simply
Rnd 8: in both loops, sc in each st around. (8 st) flip your work inside out at any point
Rnd 9: in BL only, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 7 st. (9 st) before you stuff the tail.
Rnd 10: in both loops, sc in each st around. (9 st)
Rnd 11: in BL only, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 8 st. (10 st)
Rnd 12: in both loops, sc in each st around. (10 st)
Rnd 13: in BL only, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 9 st. (11 st)
Rnd 14: in both loops, sc in each st around. (11 st)
Rnd 15: in BL only, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 10 st. (12 st)
Rnd 16: in both loops, sc in each st around. (12 st).
Stuff tail and continue. Continued on next page...

[Link] -4- © 2015 June Gilbank

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Tail (contd)
Rnd 17: in BL only, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 11 st. (13 st)
Rnd 18: in both loops, sc in each st around. (13 st)
Rnd 19: in BL only, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 12 st. (14 st)
Rnd 20: in both loops, sc in each st around. (14 st)
Rnd 21: in BL only, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 13 st. (15 st)
Rnd 22: in both loops, sc in each st around. (15 st)
Rnd 23: in BL only, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 14 st. (16 st)
Rnd 24: in both loops, sc in each st around. (16 st)
Rnd 25: in BL only, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 15 st. (17 st)
Rnd 26: in both loops, sc in each st around. (17 st)
Join with sl st to next st. Fasten off, leaving long end to attach tail to body.

Tail Armour
Note: To make the tail armour, you'll be working into the unworked
front loops (pale highlights, Figure 2) that spiral all the way up
the tail.
1. Hold the tail with the tip at the bottom. Leaving a 6" yarn end,
insert your hook into the first unworked FL near the tip of the
tail (Figure 1) and draw up a loop.
2. Sl st in the next FL, sl st in each remaining FL around the tail. When you reach the jog at the end of the
round (arrow, Figure 2) jump up to the next unworked loop above.
3. Sl st in each FL around. At the jog, jump up to the next unworked loop above.
Note: From this point onwards, you'll be working in single crochet, not slip stitch.
4. For the remainder of the tail, sc in each FL around, jumping up to the next loop at the end of each round, so
you work around and around the spiral of unworked loops (Figure 3) until you reach the top of the tail.
5. Work 2 sc in the final FL, then join with sl st to the next st at the open end of the tail and fasten off.
6. Weave in the starting yarn end from the tip of the tail.

Figure 1: Insert hook into the first Figure 2: At the jog at the end of Figure 3: Crochet into each
unworked front loop, nearest the each round (marked by arrow), jump unworked front loop up the tail, to
pointed tip of the tail. up to the next unworked front loop form a continuous spiral of armour
above. (The unworked front loops plates around the tail.
are highlighted here, for clarity.)
Note for left-handers: As you crochet counter-clockwise instead of clockwise, your spirals will also run in the opposite
direction from those shown above.

[Link] -5- © 2015 June Gilbank

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Body Armour
Notes:
 The armour is worked in rows, not rounds. If you’re not comfortable with working in rows, place a stitch marker
into the first sc of each row. The marked stitch will then be the last stitch you’ll work into in the next row.
 See Special Stitches (p2) for fsc instructions and tips for the sc2tog worked over two ch-sps.
 For a reduced sample of the stitch patterns used in the armour, see the Stitch Diagram (p2).
 For a photo showing the appearance and shape of the finished armour, see Figure 13, p9.

The armour is worked in two sections (Figure 4):

 Part 1: Starting from the first band above
the front leg, running all the way back to the
top of the tail.
 Part 2: Starting from the shoulder and
running forwards to the neck.

Figure 4: You'll crochet the armour in

two parts: firstly from shoulder to tail
and secondly from shoulder to neck.

Part 1: Shoulder to Tail

Leaving a 6" yarn end, fsc 35 (or ch 36, sc in 2nd chain from hook and in each remaining chain). (35 st).
Rows 1-12: ch 1 (does not count as a stitch, here and throughout), turn; in BL only, sc in each st across. (35 st)
Row 13: ch 1, turn, sc in first st, (sc in next st, ch 1, skip next st) sixteen times, sc in last 2 sts.
Row 14: ch 1, turn, sc in first st, ch 1, (sc in next ch-sp, ch 1) sixteen times, sc in last st.
Row 15: ch1, turn, sc in first st, (sc in next ch-sp, ch 1) five times, sc2tog over next 2 ch-sp, ch 1, (sc in next ch-sp,
ch 1) three times, sc2tog over next 2 ch-sp, ch 1, (sc in next ch-sp, ch 1) four times, sc in next ch-sp, sc in last st.
Row 16: ch 1, turn, sc in first st, ch 1, (sc in next ch-sp, ch 1) fourteen times, sc in last st.
Row 17: ch 1, turn, sc in first st, (sc in next ch-sp, ch 1) four times, sc2tog over next 2 ch-sp, ch 1, (sc in next ch-
sp, ch 1) three times, sc2tog over next 2 ch-sp, ch 1, (sc in next ch-sp, ch 1) three times, sc in next ch-sp, sc in
last st.
Row 18: ch 1, turn, sc in first st, ch 1, (sc in next ch-sp, ch 1) twelve times, sc in last st.
Row 19: ch 1, turn, skip first st, (sc in next ch-sp, ch 1) three times, sc2tog over next 2 ch-sp, ch 1, (sc in next ch-
sp, ch 1) three times, sc2tog over next 2 ch-sp, ch 1, (sc in next ch-sp, ch 1) twice, skip next ch-sp, sc in last st.
Row 20: ch 1, turn, skip first st, (sc in next ch-sp, ch1) nine times, skip next ch-sp, sc in last st.
Row 21: ch 1, turn, skip first st, (sc in next ch-sp, ch 1, sc2tog over next 2 ch-sp, ch 1) twice, sc in next ch-sp, ch 1,
sc2tog over next 2 ch-sp, sc in last st.
Row 22: ch 1, turn, skip first 2 st, (sc in next ch-sp, ch 1) four times, skip next ch-sp, sc in last st.
Row 23: ch 1, turn, skip first st, sc2tog over next 2 ch-sp, ch 1, sc2tog over next 2 ch-sp, sl st in last st.
Fasten off, leaving long end to attach armour to body.
Continued on next page...

[Link] -6- © 2015 June Gilbank

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Body Armour (contd)

Part 2: Shoulder to Neck
Without turning your work, rotate the armour through 180 degrees
(Figure 5) so you can work into the bottom edge of your foundation
stitches (or foundation chain).

Figure 5: After finishing the tail end of the

armour, rotate your work so you can begin
to crochet the neck end of the armour.

The first stitch will be made into the

end of the foundation that has the
starting yarn tail coming from it
(Figure 6).

Figure 6: Right-handers, start here... Left-handers, start here.

Leaving a 6" yarn end, insert your hook into the first stitch and draw up a loop, ch 1 (does not count as a stitch).
Row 1: sc in first st, (sc in next st, ch 1, skip next st) sixteen times, sc in last 2 sts.
Row 2: ch 1, turn, sc in first st, ch 1, (sc in next ch-sp, ch 1) sixteen times, sc in last st.
Row 3: ch 1, turn, sc in first st, (sc in next ch-sp, ch 1) sixteen times, sc in next ch-sp, sc in last st.
Row 4: ch 1, turn, sc in first st, ch 1, (sc in next ch-sp, ch 1) sixteen times, sc in last st.
Row 5: ch1, turn, sc in first st, (sc in next ch-sp, ch 1) six times, sc2tog over next 2 ch-sp, ch 1, sc in next ch-sp, ch
1, sc2tog over next 2 ch-sp, ch 1, (sc in next ch-sp, ch 1) five times, sc in next ch-sp, sc in last st.
Row 6: ch 1, turn, sc in first st, ch 1, (sc in next ch-sp, ch 1) fourteen times, sc in last st.
Row 7: ch 1, turn, sc in first st, (sc in next ch-sp, ch 1) five times, sc2tog over next 2 ch-sp, ch 1, sc in next ch-sp,
ch 1, sc2tog over next 2 ch-sp, ch 1, (sc in next ch-sp, ch 1) four times, sc in next ch-sp, sc in last st.
Row 8: ch 1, turn, sc in first st, ch 1, (sc in next ch-sp, ch 1) twelve times, sc in last st.
Row 9: ch 1, turn, skip first st, (sc in next ch-sp, ch 1) four times, sc2tog over next 2 ch-sp, ch 1, sc in next ch-sp,
ch 1, sc2tog over next 2 ch-sp, ch 1, (sc in next ch-sp, ch 1) three times, skip next ch-sp, sc in last st.
Row 10: ch 1, turn, skip first st, (sc in next ch-sp, ch1) nine times, skip next ch-sp, sc in last st.
Row 11: ch 1, turn, skip first st, (sc in next ch-sp, ch 1, sc2tog over next 2 ch-sp, ch 1) twice, sc in next ch-sp, ch 1,
sc2tog over next 2 ch-sp, sl st in last st.
Fasten off, leaving long end to attach armour to body.

Notes: The side facing you as you crochet the final row is the right side and should be the outside of the armour.
The wrong side has bumps at the decrease points, which you wouldn't want to show on your finished
armadillo, so mark the right side with a stitch marker now in case it gets flipped inside-out before assembly!
The marker will also help you to remember that this is the neck end of the armour.

[Link] -7- © 2015 June Gilbank

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Finishing
Eyes
Attach the eyes. They should be positioned on either side of the head,
approximately 8 stitches apart. If you placed the marker at Rnd 10 of the
head, position the eyes 2 rounds back from the marker (see Figure 7 and
cover photos for reference). If you didn't place the marker, position the eyes
approximately at Rnd 12 (see cover photos for reference).
If using animal eyes, attach the backs.

Figure 7:
A: Position of stitch marker (Rnd 10), at the top of the head.
B: Position of eyes (Rnd 12), 2 rounds further back from the nose
than the stitch marker.

Head
Before assembly, make sure the body of your armadillo is the right way up – the stitch marker you placed at Rnd
6 should be at the top of the body. Also, make sure the head is the right way up – the stitch marker you placed
at Rnd 10 should be at the top of the head.
Stuff head, making sure you push the stuffing down past
the eyes and into the snout. Position the head at the front
of the body so that the top of the open end of the neck
covers the first 2 rounds of the body and the head is
angled downwards (Figure 8).
Using a yarn needle and the long yarn end from the head,
stitch the head to the body, all around the open end of the
neck.
Figure 8: Position the head low down at the front
of the body. Arrow marks centre of magic ring; top
edge of neck should be 2 rounds above centre.

Ears
Flatten each ear with the open end at
the bottom, then push up the sides of
the ear so the open end forms a curved
shape (Figure 9).
Position the ears upright at either side of
the top of the head, so they are very
close to the neck join. There should be
only a small space between the ears and
they should be angled outwards slightly,
not pointing directly forwards (see
Figure 10 and cover photos for
reference).
Figure 9: Push the sides of the ear Figure 10: From the side, the ears
Using a yarn needle and the long yarn forward to create a curved shape. should be very close to the back of
end from each ear, stitch the open end the head.
of each ear to the head.

[Link] -8- © 2015 June Gilbank

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Tail
Stuff tail and position it at the back of the body with the long yarn end at the bottom of the tail. Position the tail
so that the top of the open end of the tail just covers the stitched-closed hole at the back of the body (Figure 11).

Figure 11: Position the tail at the back of the body so Figure 12: By positioning the tail low on the body like this,
that the top of the tail (A) just covers the stitched- the tail will slope downwards, below the bottom of the body.
closed hole at the back of the body (B).

Using a yarn needle and the long yarn end from the tail, sew the tail to the body all around the open end of the
tail. The tail will naturally slope downwards (Figure 12).
When there is only a small gap remaining, check that the tail has enough stuffing, and add more if necessary.
Finish stitching the gap closed, fasten off securely, and lose the yarn end inside the body. Squeeze and squash
the tail to redistribute the stuffing along its length. If any of the tail plates have flipped up , flip them back down
now so the plates look evenly spaced and all point towards the tip of the tail.

Armour - Stage 1
Weave in the two yarn ends at the side edge of the armour on the inside, so they don't show from the right side.
Make sure that the armour is right side out, and with the front edge facing forwards (Figure 13). The strongly
curved edge will sit over the neck, and the slightly curved edge will sit over the tail.

Figure 13: The finished armour. Note that the

front edge is strongly curved to fit over the
neck and the back edge has a shallow curve
to fit over the tail.
(The pink dotted lines that mark these edges
are also the lines you'll stitch along, to stitch
the armour to the body, in the next step).

[Link] -9- © 2015 June Gilbank

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Armour - Stage 1 (contd)
Lay the armour on top of the body so the front edge just covers the join between the head and body (Figure
14). Check the position of the armour from both sides and from the front, to make sure it hangs down equally
on each side. Use a yarn needle and the long yarn end from the neck edge of the armour to stitch the curved
front edge of the armour (dotted line at neck, Figure 13, p9) to the body, around the sides and back of the neck
(Figure 15). Fasten off and weave in the yarn end.
Move to the tail end. The armour is stretchy, especially in the banded central section, so, you can adjust its
length by pulling/pushing the banded section to stretch or compress the bands like a concertina, until the
armour just covers the join between the body and tail. Use a yarn needle and the long yarn end from the
armour to stitch the back edge of the armour (dotted line at tail, Figure 13, p9) across the top of the tail,
covering the join between the body and tail (Figure 16). Fasten off and weave in the yarn end.

Figure 14: Position armour so front Figure 15: Stitch front edge down to Figure 16: Position back edge so it
edge just covers neck join. body around sides and back of neck. covers tail join, and stitch to body.

Legs
Stuff all four legs firmly.
Hold one pair of legs together side by side, and, using a yarn needle and one
of the long yarn ends from the legs, stitch the edges of the tops of the legs
together along the line where they touch so that about 3 stitches at the top
of each leg are stitched together (Figure 17). This will make it easier to stitch
the legs to the body. Repeat for the second pair of legs.

Figure 17: Pink lines mark where the legs should be

stitched together, at the top of the legs.

To aid in positioning the legs, smooth the armour down over each side of the body until the bands look straight
and even. Position the joined pairs of legs underneath the body, at either end of the banded section of the
armour (see Figure 18 and cover photos for reference).
Using a yarn needle and the long yarn ends from each
pair of legs, sew the pair of legs to the body, stitching
all around the open end of the joined legs. To help
you access the outer edges of the legs, you can pull
the armour out away from the body while you stitch.

Figure 18: Position of legs. The first and last ridges of

the banded section of the armour (marked by pink
dotted lines) sit above the back half of each leg.

[Link] - 10 - © 2015 June Gilbank

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Armour - Stage 2
To keep the armour in position, you'll be stitching it to the
body at a few key points, working along the first and last
'channels' between the bands of the armour (Figure 19).
Re-adjust the armour, if necessary, by smoothing it down
over each side of the body, so the bands are straight and
the armour is the same length on each side.

Figure 19: Pink dotted lines mark the first (nearest the
head) and last (nearest the tail) 'channels': the low
points between the bands of the armour.

Figure 20: Insert needle into tummy, Figure 21: Pass needle through Figure 22: Pass needle through body
coming up near edge of first channel. armour and body with each stitch. across to the last channel.
1. Cut a new approx 30"/75cm long length of yarn, and thread it onto your yarn needle. Insert the needle into
the underside of the body, between the front and back legs, and bring it up a couple of stitches along the
first channel (Figure 20), leaving a 6" yarn tail.
2. Insert the hook one stitch further along the channel, passing it back into both the armour and body, and
coming up a few stitches further along the channel (Figure 21). This should leave only a tiny visible stitch.
3. Repeat Step 2 all the way along the channel, drawing each stitch flat to the surface, but not so tightly that it
puckers the fabric . Your final stitch should be made a couple of stitches from the far edge of the armour.
4. This time, pass your needle through the body across to the last channel between the armour bands (Figure
22). Repeat Steps 2 and 3 to stitch the armour to the body along this channel.
5. Pass the needle back through the body to your starting point. Smooth the armour down and adjust the
tension of any stitches that are too visible. Tie both ends of the yarn securely together and thread both ends
onto the yarn needle. Pass the needle back through the same hole the ends emerged from and through the
body, coming out a couple of inches away. Pull the ends until the knot is drawn through to the inside, then
snip off the remaining yarn ends.
Note: If your armadillo will be receiving heavy play, check how secure it feels before you fasten off (or repeat the
process with a new length of yarn), as you may wish to anchor the armour further with additional stitches.

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