Pattern Making

Pattern Making
A hard body copy of each component of the garments of the
exact dimension of each component is called the pattern. The
pattern includes seam allowance, trimming allowance, dirt,
pleat, hem, ease allowance & any special design etc. Pattern
design could be done manually or with the help of the
computer. Or,
It is a template of individual parts of garments drawn in hard
paper according to specific measurements for a particular style
of garments. Pattern making transforms design sketches into
templates
■
for cutting fabric. It turns creative ideas into
physical forms.
Objectives of Pattern Making/ Why pattern making is important
•To create patterns that ensure garments fit the human body correctly.
•To convert a designer’s sketch or idea into a workable garment form.
•To provide a base for grading into different sizes while maintaining shape and proportions.
•To optimize fabric usage and minimize errors, lowering production costs.
•To establish repeatable templates for bulk production with uniform quality.
•To experiment with new cuts, shapes, and silhouettes before finalizing the garment.
Pattern Making/ Drafting tools
• Scissors: Paper scissors, Fabric scissors.
• Rulers: For drawing straight lines and measuring lengths.
• Curve rules: French curve, is one of several curves used for shaping armhole and neckline. Hip
curve ruler to shape hipline, hem, lapels. Vary form curve to blend and shape armhole necklines.
• Notcher: Cuts a 1/4 × 1/16 inch opening at the pattern’s edge to indicate seam allowance, center
lines, and ease notches and to identify front and back of patterns.
• Awl: Pierces 1/8 inch hole in the pattern to indicate the ending of darts, pocket, trim, and buttonhole
placements.
• Measuring tape-60 inches long: Metal-tipped, linen or plastic to measure the form.
• Tracing wheels: Pointed wheel transfers pattern shapes to paper or fabric.
Types of Pattern used in Apparel Industry
• Basic block or block pattern
• Working pattern or garments pattern.
Pattern Drafting/Making/Construction
A system of pattern making that depends on measurements taken from a form or model to create
basic, foundation, or design patterns.
There are mainly two ways of pattern drafting or pattern making or pattern
construction. Like-
1) Manual Method (flat & modeling) 2) Computerized Method
By computerized method there are two ways for pattern making. Such as:
1) Directly by CAD 2) By using Digitizer

Software brand: LECTRA, OPTITEX, TUKA, INVESTRONICA, Garber Garment Technology

(GGT)
1. Block pattern or Basic block:
Block pattern or Basic block is individual component
of garments without any design, beautification and
style. It is produced according to exact dimension of
standard body measurement where no allowance is
considered. They are the foundation for
creating custom designs.

Block patterns are made in two ways:

a) Flat method
b) Modeling
a) Flat method:
• The pattern of different parts of garments
especially body and sleeve are made by
technical drawing.
• In technical drawing, the rule and application
of method of body measurement and its ratio
depends on pattern maker.
• This type of pattern can be made by
computer. In this case, the program of pattern
making is stored in computer disc.
• Actually this method comes from modeling
method and by this method fast pattern
making is possible.
b) Modeling:
• It is primary and first method and is widely still used in garments
industry still now.
• In this method, the Block that is made with standard body
measurement of dummy is called Toile. (Toile is a rough draft or
practice version of a garment made from inexpensive, lower
quality fabrics usually of cotton)
• Toile is worn on the body of dummy to check fittings.
• Then toile is worn out from the body of dummy and individual
parts of toile are drawn on hard paper or board paper by tracing the
outlines of the toile.
• In this method, more time is required but most efficient and
accurate.
 Flat Method Modeling Method
more technical and precise more intuitive and creative.
In flat pattern making, the designer creates a Draping is a more hands-on technique where
pattern on a flat piece of paper or fabric. fabric is physically draped or pinned onto a
dress form (mannequin) to shape the design.
more time-consuming but results in a precise, Draping can be faster for one-off designs,
repeatable pattern that can be easily allowing for quick experimentation with the
reproduced. fabric.
Often used for more structured garments and More commonly used for creative, couture, or
those that need to be produced in larger experimental designs,
quantities, such as suits, shirts, and dresses.

Requires strong knowledge of geometry, Requires a good understanding of fabric

measurement techniques, and pattern drafting behavior, construction techniques, and design
rules. intuition.
2. Garments pattern:
• Garments pattern is made on the basis of block pattern or basic block.
• Individual block pattern are drawn on hard paper or board paper.
• Allowance i.e. sewing allowance, trimming allowance, center front line, center back line, button
hole, dart, pleat is considered.
• For each part of a garment, separate working pattern or garment pattern is made.
• In order to show the direction of grain line or the warp yarn of fabrics, each pattern must be marked
with arrow line.
• After finishing the drawing of the pattern, the working pattern or garments pattern will be separated
from the board paper by cutting with sharp scissors or knife. Each pattern will be marked for size
and part’s name. Sample garment is made with working pattern.
 Block Pattern Working Pattern

• To serve as a master template for an ideal • To provide all the necessary information for
body size, with minimal "wearing ease" for cutting and constructing a specific garment,
basic movement. including style, fit, and construction details.

• Does not include seam allowances • Includes all necessary seam allowances

• Not used directly for cutting garments in final • Used directly for cutting and sewing the final
production. garment during the production process.

• It has no design features. • Includes all final design details, such as style
lines, dart rotations, pleats, pockets

• it can be traced for making working pattern • used to create the final garment or sample.
and reused repeatedly.
Pattern Making- Manual method
Pattern Making- CAD(Computer Aided Design)
Pattern Making- CAD(Computer Aided Design)
Manual Pattern Making

Advantages:
• Low-cost tools (paper, pencil, rulers, scissors).
• Easy to learn basic techniques.
• Hands-on, good for creative draping and experimenting.
• No dependency on electricity or software.
• Provides direct feel of proportion and balance.

Disadvantages:
• Time-consuming to draft, modify, and reproduce.
• Higher chance of human error → affects fit accuracy.
• Difficult to store and preserve patterns (paper damage).
• Bulky storage space needed.
• Limited scope for quick changes and mass production.
Digital Pattern Making

Advantages:
• High accuracy and precision.
• Fast modifications and adjustments.
• Easy to store, share, and reproduce.
• 3D visualization and virtual fitting possible.
• Saves time and fabric and supports efficient production.
• Integrates with CAD/CAM for automated cutting.

Disadvantages:
• High initial cost (software, hardware, plotter).
• Requires training and technical skills.
• Dependent on electricity and technology.
• Risk of technical issues (software crash, data loss).
• Less tactile/creative than manual draping.
Principles of CAD system:
The pattern maker manipulates small
graphic patterns on the computer screen
with the help of mouse.
• Geometry drivers can make an infinite
number of changes to the shapes and sizes
of the patterns.
• Finally it is possible to create new designs
by CAD system.
Pattern Making- Digitizing method
Pattern Making- Digitizing method
Principles of digitizing system:
• In digitizing system of pattern construction there is need of a digitizer which is sensitized table
with a cordless mouse which has a networking system with the computer.
• At first base pattern (M-size) must be digitized in the system.
• To do this each pattern pieces have to be placed on the digitizing table.
• Then place digital mouse at each corner points & press enter or click.
• The mouse picks up the lines of patterns on the table and shows them on the screen.
• Thus the whole shape can be produced.
Pattern Grading
Pattern Grading
Pattern Grading
• Grading means the stepwise increase or decrease of a master
pattern piece to create larger or smaller sizes. Pattern
grading is the process of creating a range of sizes from a
base pattern. It adjusts the pattern to fit different body
measurements.
• The starting point can be the smallest size or the middle size.
• Grading alters the overall size of a design but not its general
shape and appearance.
• Computer aided grading systems utilize internal calculation
algorithms for pattern construction
• Grading ensures size inclusivity and scalability. It allows
designs to fit a variety of body shapes and sizes.
What is the Importance of Grading?
Pattern grading is important because it allows a single
garment design to be developed into a full range of sizes
while maintaining proper fit, shape, and proportion. It
helps in achieving consistency of fit across all sizes,
reduces the need to create new patterns for every size, and
makes mass production cost- and time-efficient. By
offering multiple sizes, grading ensures wider market
coverage, enhances customer satisfaction through better
fitting garments, and supports competitiveness in the
ready-made garment industry.
Pattern Grading-Manual method
Pattern Grading-Manual method
Manual grading:
The desired range of size is created one by one using pattern templates/master patterns. A first master
pattern pieces are sketched on the pattern board and then the points are marked around the pattern
pieces as per the direction of grade rules. In this way we can get both the enlarged or reduced size
patterns for all sizes of a particular style of garments. A manually operated grading machine can also
perform this job. This device grips the master pattern pieces and places on the pattern board as per the
predetermined direction after which appropriate edge can be traced out maintaining the grade rule.
• The desired range of size is created, one by one, using a pattern template.
• Marks are made around the master pattern at the appropriate distances and the marks are later
joined up to form the enlarged.
Pattern Grading-Computerized method
Computer aided grading:
Computed grading (CAD) is the fastest pattern grading techniques. But when it first came, it was only
used by larger fashion or apparel manufacturers for their production process. Now CAD is more
affordable software. By this method every manufacturer’s get more accurate, precise, detailed patterns
in a short time. Computer grading is the most recent development in grading technology. It is also the
fastest method. Computer grading, however, is expensive and usually only large manufacturers can
afford it. Computer grading takes the processes of the two former methods and digitizes them. There is
not a superior method; they are all equally capable of producing a correct garment grade.
Computer based grading systems operate in one of two ways-
• The grading increments are fed into the computer and the different sizes are generated
automatically using the same method as applied for manual grading.
• The pattern for each individual size is calculated separately starting from the data in the size charts.
• The resulting nest of patterns can be displayed to scale on the computer monitor for visual
assessment and if necessary, adjustment.
• Style no, Parts name, Size: There is no. of style, name of pattern parts and size of the garments to be
written in the pattern paper.
• Darts: It is used for tightness of garments. It is made by stitches the fabric or sewing after fabric. It
is used for removing the wedge from the garments surface.
• Pleats: It is used for looseness of garments. It is made by folding the fabric. Dart & Pleat are all
used of fashion design in the back part of a shirt.
• Drill Holes: Mark by small holes to indicate where another parts to be super imposed (pocket in
front part).
• Balance Mark: The mark up to garments remain after sewing.
• Notches: The U or V shape cutting in fabric parts of garments where another parts to be joined.
• Grain Line: Fabric length wise direction, parallel to warp way in woven fabric and wale way in knit
fabric.
 Self Study
• Why basic blocks are fundamental elements in garment pattern making?
• Why manual method of pattern making is needed despite having digital method?
• Working principle of digitizing system of pattern making.
“A good pattern is the blueprint of perfection—without it, fashion has no foundation.”