INTERNSHIP REPORT

DEEPUR KAUSHK, AKASH KR TIWARI

 CENTRE FOR TEXTILE FUNCTIONS

MUKESH PATEL SCHOOL OF TECHNOLOGY, MANAGEMENT AND

ENGINEERING, SVKM’S NMIMS, SHIRPUR CAMPUS

CERTIFICATE
This is certify that Mr. Deepur Kaushik & Mr. Akash Kr Tiwari has
satisfactorily completed the Internship work in the company “Raymond Luxury
Cottons Ltd ”, placed at Amravati for 4-months as laid down in the regulations of
Raymond Grp for the purpose of the Internship work in the duration September
2019-January 2020

Mr. SANJAY SHARAN Mr. ABHAY PARATE

(Works Director, RLCL, Amravati) (Head of HR, RLCL, Amravati)

COMPANY STAMP
 ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

The internship we had done in Raymond Luxury Cottons

Limited Amravati, Maharashtra, was a great opportunity for
us. We consider ourselves very lucky to do our internship
training here under linen fibre and its state of art, durable and
cutting edge, spinning, dyeing and weaving process.
We are also grateful for having a chance to meet so many
wonderful people and professionals who led us throughout
this internship session.
We are especially thankful to-
Mr. Sanjay Sharan
Mr. Rajesh Bhardwaj
Mr. Abhay Parate
Mr. Madan Waghunde
Mr. N. Reddy
Mr. Ajit Kamat
Mr. Nazmul Hossain
Mr. Madhushudan
Mr. Malligarjun Samy
-for their kind cooperation.
We would like to thank “Mr. Vinay Kr Pandey and Mr. R.
D Parsi” for his effort and help provide to us to get such an
excellent opportunity. There were so many personalities who
shared valuable information that helped in the successful
completion of this internship and project.
 -: HISTORY & BACKGROUND OF RAYMOND LTD: -
The Raymond Group was incorporated in 1925 and within a span
of few years, transformed from being an Indian textile major to a
global conglomerate.

The Raymond Limited was established in September 1925 to acquire

the Woollen Mills in Thane known as WADIA
WOOLEN MILLS; it t was managed by E. D. Sassoon & Co. Until
November 1944 when the entire shareholding was acquired by
JAGGILAL KAMALPAT SINGHANIA of Kanpur, subsequently J. K.
Trust Bombay, acted as managing agents. There after the name was
changed to Raymond Woollen Mills Limited.

In late 1994, the “Raymond Woollen Mills” was changed to

“Raymond Limited”. Traditional productlineswer discounting. High
quality becomes a numbers of watc h w o r d s a n d t h e diversification
program got head start. Non-traditional blends of natural and
manmade fabrics were introduced back by sound research &
Development. This resulted in greater consumer satisfaction both
at home and abroad.

The idea of J& K was to develop an organization with a diversified

product line. Over the year the organization grew in structure and
nature. To facilitate better involvement of the top management in the
organization effort, the J. K. Organization was divided into three zones
i.e., Western, Central and Eastern. The Raymond Limited in Amravati
is a part of central zone.
RAYMOND BRANDS:-
Raymond is among the largest integrated manufacturers of worsted fabrics in the world.
Raymond Ltd. owns some of the most highly respected apparel brands in its portfolio like
- Raymond, Manzoni, Park Avenue, ColorPlus, Parx, Park Avenue, Be:, Zapp! and
Notting Hill and GAS. Raymond manufactures and markets brands like KamaSutra
condoms and even surgical gloves. The company is led by CEO Gautam Hari Singhania,
great-grandson of the company's founder. Raymond is listed on several stock exchanges
in India, including the Mumbai (Bombay) Stock Exchange.
For over 80 years, Raymond is counted as one of the world’s premier manufacturers of
worsted suiting fabric in fine grade wool; in the same league as the finest that Europe has
to offer.
Today, the Raymond product range includes pure wools, wool blended with exotic fibers
like c a m e l
h a i r , c as hm er e a nd a n go r a a nd i n n ov a t i v e bl e nds of w ool wit h p ol ye s
t e r , l i n e n and s i l k . Offering suiting and trouser fabric for all occasions and needs.
Our domestic distribution is spread far and wide with more than 30,000 outlets that stock
and sell our wide range of fabrics. Fine products, wide range, superb distribution and
intelligent advertising support have helped t h e co mp a n y ga i n a d omi n ant s h a re
oft h e m a r k e t . No w ond e r , p re miu m l a b e l s f rom t h e wo r l d ’ s fashion capitals
prefer Raymond.

MANZONI

Manzoni is a luxury lifestyle brand offering the discerning customer a super-

premium r a n ge o f for m a l w e a r a nd s po r t sw e a r i n c l ud i n g shi r t s , s uit s ,
t r ou se r s , j a ck e t s , t i e s an d l e a t h e r accessories. Our exclusive designs provide
customers the best in contemporary international style and luxury. Each garment is
crafted from the most exotic cotton silk, linen and superfine wool, the best-in-the-world
linings, interlinings and threads sourced from around the globe.

PARK AVENUE

Launched in 1986, Park Avenue is today, India’s most admired formal wear brand. It
offers stylish and innovative wardrobe solutions to gentlemen for all their dressing
needs, be it Business, Evening Leisure, Travel or Heritage Wear. The brand has received
several awards. Recently, it had the honour of being the ‘Most Admired Brand’ at the
Lycra Images Fashion Awards 2007 for the third consecutive year. Crossing the gender
divide, Park Avenue launched ‘Park Avenue Woman’ - a complete range of Business
Wear for women. ‘Park Avenue Woman’ is designed especially for the working
women professionals of today.

COLORPLUS

ColorPlus is one of India’s premium and most respected casual wear brands offering
customers a range of shirts, trousers, knits and survival gear. ColorPlus
constantly innovating the p r o c e s s e s a n d t e c h n o l o g i e s w h i c h o f f e r i n
g t h e b u y e r s n e w w o r l d o f c o m f o r t . S o m e o f t h e technological
innovations it is well known for; include thermo-fused buttons, golf ball wash,
soft jeans, wrinkle free technology, stain-free fabric and the cone dyed technique.
Adding new colour now to the woman’s wardrobe, ColorPlus recently launched
ColorPlus Woman – An exclusive range of smart-casual clothing.

PARX :-

Parx is a ’premium casual lifestyle brand bringing customer a range of stylish semi-formal
and casual clothes that reflects the easy, relaxed attitude of the energetic 22 -30
years old. Parx was launched in 1999 to cater to the smart and fashionable clothing
segment.

ZAPP!

The burgeoning children’s wear market has now turned stylish with zapp! - our range of
stylish and fashionable kids wear. The brand brings 4-12 years a wide range of clothes,
accessories, bed and bath line and more. The first zapp! store has been launched in
Ahmedabad with ten more on their way for kids across the counT.

NOTTING HILL

Notting Hill reflects style and manifests originality of today’s fashion-conscious and
discerning young professional at an affordable price. The brand collection features a
spectrum of men’s lifestyle product comprising of suits, shirts, trousers, jeans, t-shirts
and also accessories like ties, handkerchiefs and socks.
HOME BE

Home is a specialty multi brand Home Retail Chain that present elegant, soft home
furnishing & accessories which are sourced from across the globe from reputed labels
(private &international). Spanning from a mid premium pricing range, be: HOME
provides an assortment of quilts, blankets, robes, apparels, wall decor, vases,
candles, gourmet cooking range and much more under one roof to provide the perfect
look for your home.
THE RAYMOND SHOP

The Raymond shop is premium retail store offering complete wardrobe solution for men,
which includes top-of-the-line brand Raymond Manzoni, Park Avenue, ColorPlus and
Parx.
OVERVIEW OF AMRAVATI UNIT

Maharashtra Chief Minister Devendra Fadnavis inaugurated the first ever

greenfield linen manufacturing plant of Raymond on17th December 17, its
foundation stone was layed on 30th April 2016 under “MAKE IN INDIA” plan of
February 2016. The textile major has opened the unit under its subsidiary
Raymond Luxury Cottons Ltd. in Amaravati district, there are total 8 plants
present in Maharashtra. The plant is present in 30 acres of total 550 acres land in
Nandgaon Peth in Amravati. The overall set up cost is around 1500 crore.
Maharashtra government handed over 200 hectares (about 500 acres) in
Maharashtra industries development corporation (MIDC) area to the group for
the state-of-the-art plant.

The manufacturing head of this plant is Mr. Harish Chatterjee under whom
almost 1100 workmen, 86 Management staff are employed at the unit which
produces approx. 1,200 tonnes of linen yarns and 4.8 million metres of linen
and blended fabrics annually. the workmen of this plant lie in the age group age
23-25 years and are freshers with having diploma in ITI. The production rate of
this plant is achieved within a year which was expected to be achieved in 2
years, this became possible due to certain factors that are the employed
workforce, machinery and setup and the concept applied for the setup. This
plant processes 30% cotton and 70% linen.
Raymond Limited Amravati is the rising unit of RAYMOND group. It produces
high quality of linen fabric. The linen yarn that is processed in this plant is
selled with the name of PUROLINO and has reached on the rank 3rd in linen
production across India within a year. The other competitors of Raymond in
linen production are Jayshree Kolkata, Sintex Industries, BRFL Bombay,
Siyaram collaborated with damodhar works as Golden fiber and WFB.
 -: GROUP COMPANIES:-
The subsidiary companies of Raymond Limited are as follows:
 Raymond Apparel Limited
Raymond Apparel Ltd. has in its folio some of the most
highly regarded apparel brands in India – Raymond
finally crafted Garments, Monzani, Park Avenue for men
& women, ColorPlus for men & women, Parx and Zapp!
And NottingHill.
 ColorPlus Fashion Ltd.
ColorPlus is among the largest smart casual brands in the
premium [Link] company was acquired by
Raymond to cater to the growing demand for a high end,
casual wear brands in the country for men and women.
 Silver Spark, Apparel Ltd.
A garmenting facility that manufactures formal suits,
trousers and jackets.
Regency Textiles Portuguesa Lda.
A facility set- up in northern Portugal bordering Spain, in
Carina for manufacturing suits, jackets and trousers.
EverBlue Apparel Ltd.
A state-of-the-art denim garmenting facility.
Celebrations Apparel Ltd.
A facility set-up for the manufacture of formal shirts.
J. K. Files & Tools
A leading player in the Engineering files and tools
segment and the largest producer of steel files in the
world.
Ring Plus Aqua Ltd.
A leading player in the engineering automotive components.
J. K. Helene CurtisLtd.
A leading player in the grooming, accessories and toiletries category
J. K. Investo Trade (India) Ltd.
JKIT is an investment company registered with Reserve Bank of India as Non-
Banking Financial Company.

-: JOINT VENTURES:-

Raymond UCO Denim Pvt. Ltd.

The manufacturers and marketers of denim fabrics.
Gas Apparel Pvt. Ltd.
Joint venture with Grotto S.P.A. launched the highly successful
‘GAS’ brand in India.
J. K. Ansell Ltd.
The manufacturers and marketers of Kamasutra condom and
Surgical Gloves.
J. K. Talabot Ltd.
Joint venture with MOB Outillage SA, manufacturing files
and rasps for international markets.
Raymond Luxury Cottons Ltd.- Amravati.
Inside view

Outside view
PRODUCTION PROCESS
The linen is the main fiber that is processed in this plant are imported from France and
Belgium, the major importers are N V Jos vaneste and texnord in the form of fiber and sliver.
The fiber is processed to make sliver where sliver is used directly.
The company works in 3 different departments which are spinning, yarn dying and weaving.
Process Flow company is as follows: -
Raw material

Spinning

Yarn Dyeing

Design and Development

Weaving preparatory

Drawing-in and Denting

Weaving

Packing with inspection.

Complete finishing of end product is done in Kolhapur plant an order takes 20-25 days to get
complete
CONTENT
SL NO. SUBJECT PAGE NO

1 LINEN SPINNING 1 - 100

2 YARN DYEING 101 - 125

3 TEXTILE DESIGN 126- 143

4 WEAVING PREPARATORY 144 - 166

5 WEAVING 167- 181

6 FABRIC INSPECTION 182-188

 PLANT LAYOUT
METER ROOM

1st FLOOR
BOILER
ACCOUNTS & PLANT HEAD. COAL YARD
PURCHASE DEPT H.R. E.T.P. / S.T.P.
GROUND FLOOR

GREIGE FABRIC WEAVING

YARN SPINNING FIBER
WAREHOUSE GODOWN
DYEING

ADMIN
RAW CANTEEN
WATER W.T.P
TANK

TEMPLE

MAIN GATE ENTRY

p

LINEN SPINNING

1|Page
 CENTRE FOR TEXTILE FUNCTIONS
MUKESH PATEL SCHOOL OF TECHNOLOGY, MANAGEMENT AND
ENGINEERING, SVKM’S NMIMS, SHIRPUR CAMPUS

CERTIFICATE

This is certify that Mr. Deepur Kaushik & Mr. Akash Kr Tiwari
has satisfactorily completed the Internship work in the Spinning
dept. “Raymond Luxury Cottons Ltd”, placed at Amravati for 4-
months as laid down in the regulations of Raymond grp for the
purpose of the Internship work in the duration September 2019-
January 2020

Mr. N. REDDY Mr. SATAPPA SMITH

(MANAGER, SPINNING , RLCL ) (MENTOR, SPINNING, RLCL)

COMPANY STAMP

2|Page
SPINNING
Fiber godown

Sorting & Conditioning

Tow
Hackling Carding

Drawframe 2- Gilling machine

Combing

4- Gilling machines

Roving

Bleaching

Ring frame (wet spinning)

Drying

Winding (autoconer) Packing

3|Page
LINEN FIBRE

4|Page
Process flow chart for cultivation and
harvesting of flax fibers:-

5|Page
Cultivating:-
It takes about 100 days from seed planting to harvesting of the flax
plant. Flax cannot endure very hot weather; thus, in many countries,
the planting of seed is figured
from the date or time of year in
which the flax must be
harvested due to heat and the
growers count back 100 days to
determine a date for planting. In
some areas of the world, flax is
sown in winter because of heat
in early spring. In commercial
production, the land is plowed
in the spring then worked into a
good seedbed by discing, harrowing, and rolling. Flax seeds must be
shallowly planted. Seeds may be broadcast by hand, but the .
seed must be covered over with soil. Machines may also plant the
seed in rows. Flax plants are poor competitors with weeds. Weeds
reduce fiber yields and increase the difficulty in harvesting the plant.
Tillage of the soil reduces weeds as do herbicides. When the flax
plants are just a few inches high, the area must be carefully weeded
so as not to disturb the delicate sprouts. In three months, the plants
are straight, slender stalks that may be 2-4 ft (61-122 cm) in height
with small blue or white fibers. (Flax plants with blue flowers yield
the finest linen fibers.)

6|Page
Physical description:-
Flax is a herbaceous annual. When
densely planted for fibre, plants average
0.9 to 1.2 metres (3 to 4 feet) in height,
with slender stalks 2.5 to 4 mm (about
0.10 to 0.15 inch) in diameter and with
branches concentrated at the top. Plants
cultivated for seed are shorter and many-
branched. The leaves, alternating on the
stalk, are small and lance-shaped.
The flowers, borne on stems growing
from the branch tips, have five petals,
usually blue in colour but sometimes
white or pink. The fruits are small dry capsules composed of five
lobes.
Flax (Linum usitatissimum) in bloom. The plant is grown for its
useful fibres as well as for its nutritious edible seeds.
The plant is adaptable to a
variety of soils and climates
but grows best in well-
drained sandy loam and in
temperate climates. In most
areas planting of the same
land with flax is limited to
once in six years to avoid soil
exhaustion. Cool moist growing seasons produce the most-desirable
fibre.

7|Page
Harvesting :-
After about 90 days, the leaves wither, the
stem turns yellow and the seeds turn
brown, indicating it is time to harvest the
plant. The plant must be pulled as soon as
it appears brown as any delay results in
linen without the prized luster. It is
imperative that the stalk not be cut in the
harvesting process but removed from the
ground intact; if the stalk is cut the sap is
lost, and this affects the quality of the
linen. These plants are often pulled out of
the ground by hand, grasped just under
the seed heads and gently tugged. The
tapered ends of the stalk must be
preserved so that a smooth yarn may be
spun. These stalks are tied in bundles called beets and are ready for
extraction of the flax fiber in the stalk. However, fairly efficient
machines can pull the plants from the ground as well.

8|Page
Releasing the Fiber from the stalk:-
The plant is passed through coarse combs, which removes the seeds
and leaves from the plant. This process, called rippling, is
mechanized in many of the flax-producing countries.

The woody bark surrounding the flax

fiber is decomposed by water or
chemical retting, which loosens the
pectin or gum that attaches the fiber
to the stem. If flax is not fully retted,
the stalk of the plant cannot be
separated from the fiber without
injuring the delicate fiber. Thus,
retting has to be carefully executed.
Too little retting may not permit the fiber to be separated from the
stalk with ease. Too much retting or rotting will weaken fibers.

Retting may be accomplished in a variety of ways. In some parts of

the world, linen is still retted by hand, using moisture to rot away the
bark. The stalks are spread on dewy slopes, submerged in stagnant
pools of water, or placed in running streams. Workers must wait for
the water to begin rotting or fermenting the stem—sometimes more
than a week or two. However, most manufacturers use chemicals for
retting. The plants are placed in a solution either of alkali or oxalic
acid, then pressurized and boiled. This method is easy to monitor
and rather quick, although some believe that chemical retting
adversely affects the color and strength of the fiber and hand retting
produces the finest linen. Vat or mechanical retting requires that the
stalks be submerged in vats of warm water, hastening the
decomposition of the stem. The flax is then removed from the vats
9|Page
and passed between rollers to crush the bark as clean water flushes
away the pectin and other impurities.

After the retting process, the flax plants are squeezed and allowed to
dry out before they undergo the process called breaking. In order to
crush the decomposed stalks, they are sent through fluted rollers
which break up the stem and separate the exterior fibers from the
bast that will be used to make linen. This process breaks the stalk
into small pieces of bark called shives. Then, the shives are scutched.
The scutching machine removes the
broken shives with rotating paddles,
finally releasing the flax fiber from
[Link] fibers are now combed and
straightened in preparation for
spinning. This separates the short
fibers (called tow and used for making
more coarse, sturdy goods) from the longer and more luxurious linen
fibers. The very finest flax fibers are called line or dressed flax, and
the fibers may be anywhere from 12-20 in (30.5-51 cm) in length.

10 | P a g e
Spinning:-
The fibers are now combed and straightened in preparation for
spinning. This separates the short fibers (called tow and used for
making more coarse, sturdy goods) from the longer and more
luxurious linen fibers. The very finest flax fibers are called line or
dressed flax, and the fibers may be anywhere from 12-20 in (30.5-
51 cm) in length.

Line fibers (long linen fibers) are put

through machines called spreaders,
which combine fibers of the same
length, laying the fibers parallel so that
the ends overlap, creating a sliver. The
sliver passes through a set of rollers,
making a roving which is ready to
spin.

The linen rovings, resembling tresses

of blonde hair, are put on a spinning
frame and drawn out into thread and
ultimately wound on bobbins or spools. Many such spools are filled
on a spinning frame at the same time. The fibers are formed into a
continuous ribbon by being pressed between rollers and combed
over fine pins. This operation constantly pulls and elongates the
ribbon-like linen until it is given its final twist for strength and
wound on the bobbin. While linen
is a strong fiber, it is rather inelastic. Thus, the atmosphere within
the spinning factory must be both humid and warm in order to render
the fiber easier to work into yarn. In this hot, humid factory the linen
is wet spun in which the roving is run through a hot water bath in
order to bind the fibers together thus creating a fine yarn. Dry
11 | P a g e
spinning does not use moisture for spinning. This produces rough,
uneven yarn that are used for making inexpensive twines or coarse
yarns.

These moist yarns are transferred from bobbins on the spinning

frame to large take-up reels. These linen reels are taken to dryers,
and when the yarn is dry, it is wound onto bobbins for weaving or
wound into yarn spools of varying weight. The standard measure of
flax yarn is the cut. It is based on the measure of 1 lb (453.59 g) of
flax spun to make 300 yd (274.2 m) of yarn being equal to one cut.
If 1 lb (453.59 g) of flax is spun into 600 yd (548.4 m), then it is a
"no. 2 cut." The higher the cut, the finer the yarn becomes. The yarn
now awaits transport to the loom for weaving into fabrics, toweling,
or for use as twine or rope.

The greatest concern are the chemicals used in retting. These

chemicals must be neutralized before being released into water
supplies. The stalks, leaves, seed pods, etc. are natural organic
materials and are not hazardous unless impregnated with much of
the chemicals left behind in the retting process. The only other
concern with the processing of linen is the smell—it is said that hand-
retted linen produces quite a stench and is most unpleasant to experience.

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All About Linen – The Forgotten Fiber:-
The word linen has been so generalized and coopted it’s often
difficult to sort out
what it actually means.
Beyond what Elton
John wants you to lay
him down in sheets of,
linen is a natural plant
fiber that people have
been using for
thousands of years.
You can find it in
thread, shirts, sheets,
embroidery and pretty much any other type of woven fabric.
Linen is often mistaken for other fibers and misconstrued as
something itchy you only wear to summer weddings, but we’re here
to brush away those misconceptions and educate you on the wide
world of linen fibers.
Linen is a bast fiber, which
means it comes from the inner
part of the plant. In linen’s
case, that’s the flax plant. The
word linen comes from the
Latin word for flax, linum.
The linen fiber is not to be
confused with bed linen,
although the two are
connected. Linen’s
association with bedding and
the origin of the word comes from the fiber’s close association with
13 | P a g e
throws, bed sheets and ropes since ancient [Link] as a fiber
looks very similar to hemp and the two can be hard to distinguish
from each other without a microscope. The two share a lot of the
same properties too, although hemp is known to be a little darker
and have poorer elastic recovery than linen. Linen has a beautiful,
natural color, varying from ivory to ecru, tan and grey.

General Properties of Linen:-

World’s strongest natural fiber: linen is ~30% stronger than cotton,
making linen fabrics hard wearing and durable for several decades
,Eco-friendly life cycle/recyclable and biodegradable, Soft hand:
linen is stiff and scratchy at first, but softens with wear and wash
Structurally , sound fiber: linen garments keep their shape well
Colour fast and launders well Naturally hypoallergenic, Anti-static,
Good moisture absorbency: can absorb 20% of its weight (before it
feels damp) ,Highly breathable, Low elasticity, Long extraction time
(from plant to fiber)

Major End Uses Linen Fabric:

Apparel:
 dresses,
 suits,
 separates,
 skirts,
 jackets,
 pants,
 blouses,
 shirts,
 children's wear etc.

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Home Fashion :
 curtains,
 draperies,
 upholstery,
 bedspreads,
 table linens,
 sheets,
 dish towels etc

Vintage linen is very desirable as the soft hand feel of vintage linen
is hard to replicate
This is less than both cotton and wool. However wool becomes
weaker once wetted whereas linen gets stronger. Absorbency is also
dependent on the particular weave of the fabric and cotton tends to
hold onto moisture for longer than linen.
Linen fibers are much thicker
than cotton and thus linen
fabrics have a lower thread
count (number of yarns per
inch of fabric) than those of
cotton. However, it should be
noted that thread count does
not necessarily correlate with
good quality, especially not
when comparing two
different fibers. In spite of linen’s relatively low thread count, linen
is considered far superior to cotton in both quality and eco-
friendliness and is priced accordingly.
Linen, unlike cotton, takes a long time to soften up. Linen sheets
typically needs three years of use before they develop their natural
sheen. Cotton, on the other hand, has a much softer hand when
comparing freshly woven fabrics.
15 | P a g e
But good things come to those who wait, as linen sheets typically
lasts for two to three decades whereas sheets of cotton sheets
commonly only lasts between three to five years. The wrinkly nature
often associated with linen is due to the fiber’s stiffness in the early
stage. Once worn and washed many times, those wrinkles fade away.
Ironically, lignan, a plant compound found in the flax plant is known
to have anti-wrinkling properties on human skin!
Linen is, from ancient times, known to have healing properties,
given the fiber’s high breathability, antibacterial, and hypoallergenic
properties. Linen is anti-static which explains why it doesn’t cling
to the body and generally stays clean longer as this naturally repels
dirt. Linen is also a temperature-regulating natural insulator, like
silk, which is due to the fibers permeability and hollow core. This
helps the body to keep cool or warm depending on the seasons.
The anti-static and hypoallergenic nature of linen, means that it’s
good on your skin, and so sleeping in linen should help you sleep
better. Less so today, but
linen has known to be a
status symbol and given
the fibers extensive
range of functional
benefits, it’s no surprise
that linen is largely
associated with luxury.
Prestigious and
expensive hotels will
typically make use of
linen bedding.
Patterned ancient Egyptian linen. Image via NoBell

16 | P a g e
What’s the History of Linen?
Linen is one of the oldest fabric’s
in the world. Although historians
are uncertain about exactly when
the fabric was invented there are
examples of it, discovered in
Turkey, 7000 BC. The Egyptians
also loved linen and it was one of
their principle fabrics. The cloth
was worn by the common people,
their impressive sails were made
from strong linen, and of course
their famous mummies were bandaged in it.
The Greeks and Romans also used a lot of linen. It was worn as togas
or robes and used on a daily basis. The Romans were known to have
embellished their robes with gold and silver, embroidered to
demonstrate their status and wealth.
In more recent times, during the 16th century it was Germany and
Prussia that would become famous for producing the best linen.
Saxony and Silesia were particularly famed for their strong fabrics.
Both fine and coarse linen was produced in this region and exported
throughout [Link] use of linen in thread and rope has been
known to man for more than thirty thousand years which long
predates the use of wool. By 3000 B.C., at latest, humans found a
way of weaving the thread into textiles. The coarse fibers were spun
into yarn and was used by Egyptians for sails whereas the finer, more
expensive linen would be used for high-prized tunics and such. It’s
claimed that Egyptians even used linen as currency.
In North Africa, Egypt and Sudan it was common to wear linen
whereas it was common to wear wool in West Asia, Greece, and
Germany. In Roman times however it was common for Europeans
to wear tunics made from linen, typically worn underneath their
17 | P a g e
wool robes. This is why linen, in the
Western part of the World, became
associated with underwear (the
word lingerie derives from the
french word for linen: lingin) and the
white color in underwear also comes
from linen, which is naturally
“light”. The Islamic Empire
preferred linen (and cotton) over
wool as well.
In Europe it’s been a tradition to pass
down dresses, sheets and other types
of linen cloth as a heirloom from
generation to generation. This too
denotes linen’s long lasting properties as well as the high quality
associated with the fiber. Linen was the fabric of choice up until the
Industrial Revolution in the eighteenth century when the cotton of
North America won ahead due to the technology of new spinning
machines that made cotton manufacturing more affordable.
How is Linen Grown?
Flax plants are one of few crops
still grown in Western Europe
with about 75,000 acres grown
annually. The growing cycle of
flax is short with only around
hundred days from sowing in
March to harvest in July. The
plant has a lot of potential and is
thus not mowed, but instead
uprooted. This is because the flax
plant has a wide range of use which extends the linen used in the
textile and garment industry.
18 | P a g e
 Producing linen is an eco-
friendly process, meaning its
life cycle has a small
ecological footprint compared
to cotton. This is due to several
aspects such as the longevity of
the linen fiber, and the low use
of water, pesticides, and
fertilizers in growing flax
compared to other crops.
Also, the bi-products – flax
seeds, oil, straw, lower-quality
fiber are used in producing a
wide range of products: from lino, soap, healthy oil to paper and
cattle feed. Flax seeds, for one, are very popular nowadays in both
food and medicine. Normandy and Belgium are some of the best
places to grow the flax plant due to the cool climate and
temperatures.
How Does Linen Become a Textile?
Although the growing cycle of flax is short, turning the plant into
linen fabrics is generally a
time consuming process.
The process naturally
varies depending on the
farmer or mill but most of
the process is fairly well
regimented. The first
step, after harvest,
typically involves stacking
the flax in hedges to dry.
This is done to ease the
process of removing the seeds.
19 | P a g e
Next, the flax are retted, which is a sort of soaking process, done in
order to soften the fibers. Traditionally, this was done in rivers, but
for ecological reasons it’s now done in fields, typically the fields
where the flax is grown. Retting is still commonly done with the help
of Mother Nature, in a sort of natural decomposition: The fibers are
left in the fields for several weeks and exposed to rain, dew and
sunshine throughout. This is done to break down the pectin in the
fibers of the flax plant. The flax are then typically rolled and stored
for another three months to soften, but sometimes the retting process
includes another drying process in between this. After this, it’s time
to strip and comb the fibers.
In a similar fashion to other natural fibers, the flax fibers are
separated from the straw and then graded according to the length of
the fibers which indicates quality. The short fibers (tow) are used for
the coarser yarn, which is typically made into hard wearing fabrics
in garments and upholstery as well as thread (e.g. for sewing leather
goods). The long fibers (line) are used for the finest linen yarn which
is typically woven into bed linen, fancy throws and fine garments.
The spinning process is also similar to that of cotton and wool. The
fibers are drawn out onto sinuous ribbons and then plied together to
similar weights/thicknesses and spun onto cones. The line yarn is
typically “wet spun” which means, amongst other more technically
complicated nonsense, that the spinner incorporates heated water
soaking the yarn ahead of rolling. This is done to swell the fine yarn
in order to make the process possible. Wet spinning makes for a
shiny, smooth appearance. The tow is typically “dry spun” for a
more irregular and napped appearance. Before weaving or knitting
the linen yarn into fabric, it’s examined thoroughly, and it’s typically
quality tested once again after this.
As with other natural fibers, it’s common to bleach or dye linen. This
can be done before the weaving or knitting process, called yarn
dyeing, but it can also be done as a textile or garment dye. Dyeing
linen requires great skill as it’s a delicate process not to ruin the
20 | P a g e
structures of the fiber, when using necessary chemicals to remove
any remaining non-fibrous residue or pectin first. Because of that
it’s quite common to leave linen in it’s natural state of color, which
goes hand in hand with the historical aspects of healing and eco-
friendliness associated with linen.

What Brands are Using Linen?

Given linen’s rich history and long range
of positive features, it’s easy to think of
it as a forgotten fiber – especially when
it comes to linen’s relatively small role
in the contemporary garment industry.
As previously mentioned, linen has a
bad name for wrinkling easily as well as
being tough to iron.
This might be true of newly bought garments, but the statement or
accusation also follows a pattern of fast fashion business, where
consumers are shopping with the unrealistic expectations that their
clothes are at their full potential with first wear and that they
retains this perfect state throughout its life. These ideas are largely
orchestrated by massive corporate retailers, and I, for one, hope
consumers will realize the fantastic benefits of wearing, caring for,
fixing and keeping ones clothing for longer periods of time, thus
extending the life of their clothes, plus reaping all the benefits of
continuous wear, minimizing the scale of manufacturing at which
we produce clothes in the twenty-first century.
A relatively new brand on the market that uses linen almost
exclusively in their collections is RAYMOND in India and other
countries. Raymond’s linen is sourced exclusively from Belgium,
and each product is sold with a reference number (approved by
European quality control collective, Masters of Linen) as a
guarantee that the linen used, is of the highest quality and of
21 | P a g e
European origin. Furthermore, the linen meets the OEKO-TEX
Standard 100, certifying that no harmful chemicals have been used
in the process of making the linen. Raymond furthermore utilize
natural dyestuffs like indigo in their garments, thus minimizing their
ecological footprint, plus providing a beautiful color that will fade
like denim. You can find Raymond’s products on their website.
Other brands that are known to use linen in their collections are
SIYARAM and LINEN ART , that emerged with some beautiful,
natural knitted and woven linen for their premium
collection. Generally, replacing cotton with linen (or hemp for that
matter) is a great initiative for the environment as linen tends to last
longer and the manufacturing process has a smaller ecological
footprint. It will typically cost you more upfront, but judging by the
longevity of linen, it pays off in the long run.
Top Flax Growing Countries of the World: Linen fiber is used to
produce linen fabric which is comfortable to wear. Flax is cultivated
in different parts of the world. Followings are the most flax growing
countries. They are-

1) Canada
2) Russia
3) Ukraine
4) France
5) Argentina
6) Italy
7) Germany
8) UK (Ireland, Scotland, England)
9) Holland
10) Belgium

Above are the major flax growing countries but some flax are
grown in India, Pakistan, China and Africa.

22 | P a g e
Rank Country Export Value (Millions of US
Dollars)
1 China 239
2 Italy 43.1
3 Tunisia 20.6
4 Lithuania 17.7
What are other key benefits?
 Flax fibers are amongst the oldest fiber crops in the world. fiber
is soft, lustrous and flexible.
 It is stronger than cotton fiber but less elastic.
 The best grades are used for linen fabrics such as damasks, lace
and sheeting.
 Coarser grades are used for the manufacturing of twine and rope.
 Flax fiber is also a raw material for the high- quality paper
industry for the use of printed banknotes and rolling paper for
cigarettes.
 a local resource
 renewable
 no irrigation
 zero waste
 100% recyclabe
 no skin irritation

What are the proposal’s costs?

1 hactare flax cultivation to harvest cost US$700.00/- in contest of
Nepal.

What is the World's Largest Exporter of Flax Yarn?

China is the world's largest exporter of flax yarn.

23 | P a g e
The World's Largest Exporters Of Flax Yarn:-
Flax is a plant that grows for a single season and is world-
renowned for the quality of fibre it produces which is known as
linen. Humanity has used linen longer than any other fibre. Flax
can grow in a range of conditions although the most favourable
conditions are cool and damp regions. To obtain the fibres, the
farmer can harvest the flax after the production of seeds or before.
Fibre that is obtained before the formation of grains is usually of
very high quality although the farmer has to buy seeds for the next
growing season. Harvesting flax is often a laborious process with
little mechanization to ensure the quality of the fibers. Canada
produced the most flax globally at around 872,500 tons in 2014.
The World's Largest Exporters of Flax Yarn

Conventional Organic cotton Flax Wool Hemp

cotton
121 – 445 lbs. 80 – 102 lbs. 323 – 465 62 lbs. 485 – 809
lbs. lbs.

24 | P a g e
Cotton ring spinning vs linen wet spinning

Objects Cotton ring spinning Linen wet spinning

Type of Traveller Traveller is made of metal Traveller is made of

plastic ( nylon )
Efficiency and man Efficiency high, required low Efficiency low as
power man power high man power
Material No requirement of water Water is required to
requirement increase its strength and
workability
Drafting 2 over 2 drafting
arrangement system with single
bottom apron use
here.
Automation Automation is highly used Automation is moderate

Lapping tendency Low tendency of lapping High tendency of lapping

Breakage tendency Less breakages of yarn More breakages of yarn

of yarn
Spindle speed High Low
( range 20000 – 30000 rpm ) ( range 6000 – 7000 rpm
)

25 | P a g e
GODOWN
Fibres are imported from :- Belgium, France.
Bale – Shape: Cylindrical,
Weight : 100 kg ( approx. ),
Bale manufacture company :-Texnord, N.V josvanesste,
Castellins NV, Linier De Bosco Mouvel
Capacity of godown :- 200 ton ( approx. )

CONDITIONING
Conditioning is use in linen manufacturing process to improve the
fibres moisture contain.
Basically 8 - 12% moisture in fibre is required for spinning and
further process.
Machine name = HUMIDIFIRE
Model name = HUMIDEX – 2000

26 | P a g e
HACKLING PROCESS

27 | P a g e
HACKLING MACHINE LINE DIAGRAM
Auto bale feeding

Holders

Holder tighter

Fork Holder lifter

Holder slider

Right hand Lattice

Doffer brush

Lifter

Fork

Holder tighter

Left hand lattice

Hopper Feed lattice(wooden)

Feed roller

Faller bars

Wooden roller

Calendar roller

Can packer

28 | P a g e
OBJECTIVE OF HACKLING PROCESS
Hackling separates the long linen fibres from the shorter tow. A
hackle is a bed of pins, which are usually used to comb the fibres
for drawing and aligning purposes.
Different size heckling needles are used, progressing from coarser
combs with only a few needles per inch, to finer needles.
Objectives:-

 Cleaning:-The aim of hackling is to cleaning.

 Disentanglement of fibre:-Disentanglement of fibre is done here.
 Parallelization of fibre:- Fibres are align in parallel the bunch.
 Sliver formation:- The output of hackling machine is hackle
sliver. Which is used as a feed material of next spinning process.
 Improve lustre:- The lustre of linen fibre is improve by hackling

Machine specifications –
Company name – ZHE JIANG GOLDEN EAGLE CO. LTD (GETM)
Model no.-FX103B
Made in – china
No. of machine- 4
Holder- 68
Autofeeder -4
Wooden roller - 1
Fallers bar – 93
Feed roller diameter – 25.46cm

29 | P a g e
MACHINE PASSAGE
The bun is made from the bale by the operator that is further
moved by the clamp holder takes it and move forward to
give the bun to the holder that takes it in the machine for
combing. In combing 35% of waste gets generated from the
100 kg bunch of a bale is called as TOW. There are total 21
segments in one side with different size which are divided
in 3 windows having 7 each in each side.

(a) Auto bale feeding – Here the feed material is bale.

Which entered as sheath form and then the sheath is
converted into bunches (110 ± 10g each) by manually.
(b) Clamp Holder – By holder tighter at a time two
bunches (2*110g) are clamped in holder which are already
knotted manually. The wt. of holder is approx. 7 kg.
(c) Fork – It changes the direction of the holder from
the sliding side to right hand lattice.
(d) Holder lifter – It lifts the holder upward –
downward direction for the combing action.
(e) Holder slider – It slides the holder for better combing
action by moving it from coarser to finer segments.
(f) Right hand lattice – Here combing action takes place;
the tip side of the hold bunch are combed out with the help
of 21 teeth segments. Where the points per inch are
increase for coarser to finer combing operation.
(g) Doffer brush – It cleans the lattice and remove the tow.
(h) Left hand lattice – Same as right hand lattice
passage. Here root side of bunches are combed out by
21 teeth segments.

30 | P a g e
(i) Hopper – It feeds both side combed
bunches to wooden roller.
(j) Feed rollers – It feed the combed
bunches into next process.
(k) Top wooden roller – It delivers the sliver, here a
very small amount of draft is applied.
(l) Calendar roller – It delivers the sliver.
(m) Can – It stores the final output which known as hackle sliver.

MACHINE SETTINGS DETAILS

 Left hackling slow- 29 m/min
 Left hackling quickly- 28 m/min
 Right hackling slow -26 m/min
 Right hackling quickly – 24 m/min
 Drafting delivery speed- 35 m/min
 Carriage faller bar speed-2.60 m/min
 Sliver cam length setting – 1200 meter
 Sliver pressure initial length – 500 meter
 Sliver pressure rise setting time - 5 sec
 Sliver pressure down setting time – 1 sec

31 | P a g e
MACHINE DATA
Each bunches weight – 110 ± 10 g (2 bunches are knotted)
Deliver bunches weight – 180g
Total no of holders – 68
Weight of each holder -7 kg
No of holders in hackling position -14 (right hand side-7 ; left hand side - 7)
Time of combing – 7 sec
No of combing – 205 per min
Faller bar PPI - 5
Feed roller length- 46cm
Feed roller diameter – 25.46cm
Total no of motor- 8
Left hackling slow- 29.0 m/min
Left hackling quickly -28.0 m/min
Right hackling slow-26.0 m/min
Right hand quickly – 24.0 m/min
Drafting delivery speed- 35.0 m/min
Carriage Faller bar speed- 2.0m/min
Delivery roller diameter – 110mm
Delivery roller speed- 30.0 m/min
Draft = delivery roller speed/ feed roller speed
=30/2.0
= 15

SETTINGS DISTANCE BETWEEN LATTICE

1ST SEGMENT
Knot to 1st lattice distance – 6.5cm 1st to 2nd lattice distance- 4.5cm
2nd to 3rd lattice distance – 3.0cm 3rd to 4th lattice distance- 2.7cm
4th to 5th lattice distance- 2.4cm 5th to 6th lattice distance- 1.4cm
2ND SEGMENT
1st to 2nd lattice distance- 0.8cm 2nd to 3rd lattice distance- 0.7cm 3rd
to 4th lattice distance- 0.7cm 4th to 5th lattice distance- 0.7cm 5th to
6th lattice distance- 0.7cm
3RD SEGMENT

32 | P a g e
1st to 2nd lattice distance- 0.5cm 2nd to 3rd lattice distance- 0.5cm 3rd
to 4th lattice distance- 0.5cm 4th to 5th lattice distance- 0.5cm 5th to
6th lattice distance- 0.5cm
LATTICE SETTINGS DETAILS
There are 3 segments in each side.

LATTICE SETTINGS DETAILS

There are 3 segments in each side.
And each segment contains 7 types of lattice.

Serial no of lattice Points per inch

Knot 2
1 1
2 1
3 1
4 2
5 2
6 3
7 4
8 5
9 7
10 9
11 11
12 13
13 15
14 17
15 19
16 23
17 25
18 26
19 28
20 28
21 13

33 | P a g e
 PPI (pins per inch)
Right Section P1

Total length(inch) Total pins Pins per inch(ppi)

12 6 ½
12 9 ¾
12 12 1
12 18 1.5
12 24 2
12 36 3

Right Section P2

Total length(inch) Total pins Pins per inch(ppi)

12 48 4
12 84 7
12 108 9
12 132 11
12 156 13
12 180 15
12 204 17

Right Section P3

Total length(inch) Total pins Pins per inch(ppi)

12 228 19
12 252 21
12 276 23
12 300 25
12 324 27
12 300 25

34 | P a g e
 PPI (pins per inch)
Left Section P3

Total length(inch) Total pins Pins per inch(ppi)

12 6 ½
12 9 ¾
12 12 1
12 18 1.5
12 24 2
12 36 3
Left Section P2

Total length(inch) Total pins Pins per inch(ppi)

12 48 4
12 84 7
12 108 9
12 132 11
12 156 13
12 180 15
12 204 17

Total length(inch) Total pins Pins per inch(ppi)

12 228 19
12 252 21
12 276 23
12 300 25
12 324 27
12 300 25

35 | P a g e
 Waste percentage in Hankling machine
Lot allotted Blue
Machine allotted 2
Nm 36
Lea 60
Weight 87 kg
Sliver weight 61.25 kg
Weight of waste 25.75 kg
Percentage waste 30.4%

36 | P a g e
HACKLING SLIVER LINEAR DENSITY
Serial no of sliver Linear density(g/meter)
1 34.0
2 37.4
3 49.6
4 43.2
5 35.4
6 49.2
7 52.7
8 48.4
9 49.6
10 57.0
11 41.2
12 38.0
Average 44.64

LATTICE REVOLUTION
Right side combing time (avg.) – 6.54sec Left side combing time
(avg.) – 7 sec

TOW LENGTH CALCULATION

RIGHT SIDE
1st segment tow length (avg.) – 50cm
2nd segment tow length (avg.) – 35cm
3rd segment tow length (avg.) – 32cm
LEFT SIDE
1st segment tow length (avg.) – 43cm
2nd segment tow length (avg.) -37cm
3rd segment tow length (avg.) -28cm

37 | P a g e
PRODUCTION IN HACKLING
Production ={ clamper speed × weight of output bunch ×
efficiency × 60 × 8 × 3 } / 1000 kg/day
Let the efficiency of the hackling m/c = 75% Clamp per speed = 6
pc/min
Weight of output bunch = 180g
So, production = (6 × 180 × 0.75× 60 × 8× 3) /1000
= 1166.4 kg/day

Output – Hackled sliver width is 2.5”-3”

Waste % - 32-35 % used in carding (5-6% U shaped waste

which is not used in company. It is converted into bale and
sold out)

Efficiency - Working hours of

machine - 6hrs Total working
hours - 8hrs (per shift)
Working hours/Total working hours*100
= 6/8*100
= 75%

Production rate – (Clamper speed*wt. of output

bunch*efficiency*60*8*3)/1000 kg/day Efficiency = 75%
Productivity - output/input*100
= 65/100*100 (waste % = 35%)
= 65% (approx.)

M/C Cost - 90 lacs (approx.)

37 | P a g e
Material -

Input of hackling

Output of hackling

38 | P a g e
DRAWFRAME MACHINE

39 | P a g e
Drawing line diagram

Creel

Back stop motion

Front feed roller

Back feed roller

Faller bars Condenser

Front roller with wooden roller

Front stop motion

Doubling Calendar roller

Can lever pressure can

40 | P a g e
DRAWFRAME

Drawframe is a machine for combing and drawing sliver of a

textile fiber (as of hemp for rope manufacture or cotton for
spinning). Drawing is the operation by which slivers are
blended, doubled, & levelled. In short staple spinning the term
is only applied to the process at a drawframe.

Hackled sliver Drawframe machine Drawn sliver

Objective –

 Mixing of different quality sliver

 Applying drafting and doubling
 Cleaning & removing dust by combing of sliver
 Improve uniformity & evenness of fiber
 Reduce wt. per length unit of sliver
 Make finer sliver for roving

41 | P a g e
Process –

There as six different processes in drawframe and each process have

different machine model. Input of the first drawframe machine is hackled
sliver and output is drawn sliver. The main purpose of drawframe is to get
more uniform & parallel sliver, removing dust particles, mixing of slivers,
drafting, doubling. Drawframe machines are setup in a series and input of
each machine is from previous machine. Each process reduces the width
of the sliver ranging from 3 inch to 1.3 inch.

(1) Creel – It helps to feed the input material. Total

no. of creel varies machine to machine according to
the doubling or no. of feeding.

(2) Sliver guide – It guides the sliver to feed in back roller.

(3) Back roller – It transfer the sliver to the middle roller and
faller zone.

(4) Faller bar – It helps to comb the sliver, remove the

short fiber, parallelization & splitting of fibers.

(5) Wooden front roller – It helps to insert the draft to decrease

the linear density.

(6) Doubling plate – It is the passage, where the doubling

operation takes place.

(7) Delivery roller – It delivers the drafted sliver.

(8) Can – It stores the sliver by applying equivalent pressure.

42 | P a g e
 Machine specifications –

Company name – ZHE JIANG GOLDEN

EAGLE CO. LTD (GETM) Model no. –
FX280, 281, 282, 283, 284
Made in – china
No. of machine –6*3 (18)

No of No Fall
Draw of
Model feed PPI ers
deliv
ing no. ery bar
sliver
line slive
(Doubl r per
(carri carriage
ing)
age)
1/1 FX280 18 3 9 97
1/2 FX280 18 3 12 97
1/3 FX281 24 3 16 86
1/4 FX282 32 4 20 96
1/5 FX283 40 5 23 87

1/ FX284 48 12 28 86
6

43 | P a g e
 1/1 - 1/3 – are called as doublers
1/4 – 1/6 - are called as finishers

[Link]. Machine No. of Diameter of Input Output

model wooden wooden width of width
rollers rollers sliver of
sliver
1 FX280 18 4.2” 3” 2.6-2.8”
2 FX280 18 4.2” 2.6-2.8” 2.6-2.8”
3 FX281 24 2.6” 2.6-2.8” 2.3-2.5”
4 FX282 32 2” 2.3-2.5” 1.8”
5 FX283 40 1.55” 1.8” 1.5”
6 FX284 48 1.55” 1.5” 1.3”

SIGNIFICANT OF LIGHT INDICATOR –

4 Type of light indicator are use

White – It shows disturbance at the front side
Blue - It shows the back sensor
Red – It shows the emergency call
Orange – It shows the parameter identity
44 | P a g e
Output – Drawn sliver width is 1.3”

Waste % - 4-5%

Efficiency - Working hours of

machine - 6hrs Total
working hours - 8hrs
(per shift)
Working hours/Total working hours*100
= 6/8*100
= 75%

Production rate – Speed = 24 m/min

Efficiency = 75%
No. of delivery =
12 slivers Sliver
wt. = 4.5gm
Production = (24*8*3*60*0.75*4.5*12)/1000
= 1399.68kg/day

Productivity - output/input*100
= 95/100*100 (waste % = 5%)
= 95% (approx.)

M/C Cost - 10-15 lacs (approx.)

45 | P a g e
Material -
Input of drawframe

Output of draw frame

46 | P a g e
Machine details

Drawin Model no No of feed No of delivery

g line sliver sliver (carriage)
(Doubling)
1/1 FX280 6 3
1/2 FX280 6 3
1/3 FX281 8 3
1/4 FX282 8 4
1/5 FX283 8 5
1/6 FX284 4 12

Machine Doubling Wt of Wt of Linear No of %

input output density Deliveries waste
sliver(kg) sliver(kg) (g/m)
1/1 6 12.50 12.36 24.07 3 1.11
1/2 6 12.36 12.22 21.62 3 1.32
1/3 8 12.22 12.16 18.66 3 0.49
1/4 8 12.10 12.04 17.72 4 0.50
1/5 8 11.91 11.86 15.62 5 0.41
1/6 8/2 11.81 11.75 5.44 12 0.49
Total Lapping Weight=240g
Total Input Weight= 12.50-0.24=12.26 Output
Weight=11.75
Waste Percentage= 4.14 %( Approx.)

47 | P a g e
DRAFTING: - Drafting is a process which reduces the linear density
of an assembly of fibres.
Draft = (linear density of feed material × no of doubling) / linear
density of output sliver

Serial no of doublers Draft

1/1 1.6 × 6 = 9.6

1/2 1.11 × 6 =6.66
1/3 1.15 ×8= 9.2
1/4 1.05x8=8.4
1/5 1.1×8=8.8
1/6 2.5×4=10

PRODUCTION CALCULATION

Production = (linear density × linear speed × no of head × 60 ×

efficiency)/1000 kg/hour
Let the machine
efficiency = 75%

Serial no of doublers
1/1 22.5 m/min
1/2 22.7 m/min
1/3 25.4 m/min
1/4 25.5 m/min
1/5 21 m/min
1/6 21 m/min

48 | P a g e
 0Serial no of production (kg/hour)
doublers
1/1 (21.1*24.07*3*60*0.75)/1000=68.55kg
1/2 (22.7*21.62*3*60*0.75)/1000=66.22kg
1/3 (25.4*18.66*3*60*0.75)/1000=63.9kg
1/4 (22.8*17.72*4*60*0.75)/1000=71.9kg
1/5 (23.1*16.10*5*60*0.75)/1000=83.6kg
1/6 (21.8*6.4*12*60*0.75)/1000=75.0kg

MACHINE DATA:-

Drawing roller diameter

1/1 and 1/2 doublers –

Actual diameter of roller = 300mm

Width = 108mm
Internal diameter (id) = 27mm
Bearing side diameter = 103mm
Clamp side diameter = 68mm
Weight of roller = 4.9kg

1/3 doublers –

Actual diameter = 230mm

Width = 66mm
Internal diameter = 27mm Bearing
side diameter = 100mm Clamp
side diameter = 60mm Weight of
roller = 1.72kg

49 | P a g e
1/4 doublers –

Actual diameter = 230mm

Width = 50mm
Internal diameter = 27mm Bearing
side diameter = 100mm Clamp
side diameter = 68mm Weight
=1.32kg

1/5 and 1/6 doublers –

Actual diameter = 230mm

Width = 40mm
Internal diameter = 27mm
Bearing side diameter = 91mm
Clamp side diameter = 68mm
Weight of roller = 1.08kg
FALLERS POINTS CALCULATION

Serial no Total Points per Total no of Set of

of points inch (ppi) lattice(co lattice(ro
doublers lumn w wise)
wise)

1/1 88 10 × 2 84 6
1/2 88 10 × 2 84 6
1/3 116 13 × 2 87 8
1/4 54 20 × 2 87 8
1/5 108 20 × 2 94 8
1/6 62 29 × 2 94 8

50 | P a g e
Faller segment total length= 100cm Faller
segment pin attach length = 92cm

Drive
Drawing machines are driven by Gear pulley mechanism. Motor
power = 5Hp

SET WEIGHT:-

Set weight is a mechanism by which we can get uniform desired output

liner density of sliver.
It is use for 1/3, 2/3, 3/3 draw frame machine.

Require Set. Doubling Finisher Change

Count(lea Weight wrapping Premium(
) (Kilogram (gm/metre) c
) p)
44 lea 168kg 8 can 6.0gm 50
60 lea 148kg 8 can 4.5 gm 62
100 lea 108kg 8 can 3.5 gm 58
When Roving Count 100 lea, the weight of hackling each bunch =80 to
90 gram, Set weight of Drawing machine in 108kg, Finisher wrapping
3.5gm/meter and
44 lea and 60 lea weight of hackling each bunch 120 gram.

51 | P a g e
PROCESS FOR HACKLING WASTE-

CARDING –

Carding is a mechanical process that disentangles, cleans and

intermixes fibers to produce a continuous web or sliver
suitable for subsequent processing. This is achieved by
passing the fibers between differentially moving surfaces
52 | P a g e
covered with card clothing.
The carding process for linen yarn production is intended
to disentangle and lay them as parallel as possible. The
fibres are passed between rollers covered with fine wire
teeth.

Objective –

To make the fiber parallel & straight

To remove remaining trash particles
To produce a rove like fiber called silver, which is uniform in
per unit length

Process –

The TOW (waste) generated from the hackling machine is the

input of carding that is further processed here to convert that
waste to sliver. The TOW is feed in the machine by operator
which is drafted into the machine and is combed and
compressed by the roller. The compressed fiber is feed into the
machine which is drafted and doubled in 6:3:1 ratio to make it
one single sliver. The sliver that is produced from carding is
less lusturous as compare to the hackled sliver and is wider.
The carded sliver is than sent to the gilling machine for further
process. The

53 | P a g e
 waste generated from the carding machine are short fibers
which are 11-12% of total TOW is compressed by the
compressor and is converted to bale which is sold out in
market.

Feeder – It feeds the tow.

Combing – In this combing of the tow carried out
with fine wire teeth on roller. Cleaning – In this
removal of dust & naps takes place.
Drafting - Straightening the individual fibres and
making them more parallel. Doubling – Slivers are
doubled together and remove variation in
thickness.

Machine specifications –

Company name – ZHE JIANG GOLDEN EAGLE CO. LTD

(GETM)
Model no. – FX151E
No. of machine – 1
Made in - China
Cylinder speed – 140 rpm
Feeding speed – 2.58m/min
Drafting speed – 35m/min

Output – Carded sliver width is 3-3.5”

Waste % - 11-12%

Efficiency - Working hours of

54 | P a g e
 machine – 7.2hrs Total
working hours - 8hrs
(per shift)
Working hours/Total working hours*100
= 7.2/8*100
= 90%

Production rate – Speed = 35 m/min

Efficiency = 90%
No. of delivery =
1 slivers Sliver
wt. = 30 gm
Production = (35*8*3*60*0.9*30*1)/1000
= 1360.8kg/day

Productivity - output/input*100
= 88/100*100 (waste % = 12%)
= 88% (approx.)

M/C Cost -1.2 crores (approx.)

Large cylinder speed 100

rev/min
Feeding speed 3.50
meter/min
Drafting speed 27.0
meter/min
Bucketfull length 750 meter

Full of 1 can(Time) 30 min

55 | P a g e
Material –

Input of carding

Output of carding

56 | P a g e
GILLING –

Gilling is carried out before

(preparative gilling) and after
(finisher gilling) combing. The
preparative gilling is mainly to
align the fibers in a parallel
direction, further blend the linen through doubling and to add
moisture and lubricants. Whereas finisher gilling is mainly
aimed to remove the mild entanglement introduced to the
combed sliver. The gilling process removes the shorter staple
and straightens the longer fibers.

Objective –

 Parallelization of fiber
 Remove shorter staple fiber
 Straightens the longer fibers
 Reduce the weight per unit length of sliver.
 Sliver Blending
 Remove the mild entanglement in sliver
 Doubling
 Drafting

Process –

The carded sliver or the grey rope comes to gilling process for
further process, the gilling process consists of 6 gilling
machines and 1 comber. In first gilling machine 8 carded
57 | P a g e
slivers are processed to make 1 sliver. In 2nd gilling machine
the output of the 1st gilling is taken as the input,5 slivers are
processed in one side to produce 1 sliver and total 10 slivers
are processed to produce 2 slivers.3rd is the comber in which
output from the 2nd gilling is taken as input. Final output sliver
is processed in sequence of four gilling machine.

Feeder – It feeds the carded sliver or grey rope.

Drafting - Straightening the individual fibres and
making them more parallel. Doubling – Slivers are
doubled together and remove variation in
thickness.

Machine specifications –

Company name – TANGXIANG HONGWEI TEXTILE

MACHINERY CO. LTD.(NSC)
Model no. – GN7
Made in – china
No. of machine – 7 (6 m/c uses
in process) Arrangement of
gilling machine

58 | P a g e
M/C no. No. of input sliver No. of output sliver
Gill box 1 8 1
Gill box 2 5 1
Combing
machine
Gill box 3 8 1
Gill box 4 5 1
Gill box 5 5 1
Gill box 6 4 1

Output – Final gilling sliver width is 0.7”

Waste % - 2%

Efficiency - Working hours of

machine - 6hrs Total
working hours - 8hrs
(per shift)
Working hours/Total working hours*100
= 6/8*100
= 75%

Production rate – Speed = 60 m/min

Efficiency = 75%
No. of delivery =
1 slivers Sliver
wt. = 30gm
Production = (60*8*3*60*0.75*30*1)/1000
= 1944 kg/day

Productivity – output/input*100
= 98/100*100 (waste % = 2%)
59 | P a g e
 = 98% (approx.)

M/C Cost – 15-20 lacs (approx.)

.
COMBING -

The process of straightening and parallelising of fibers and

the removal of short fibers and impurities by using a comb on
combs assisted by brushes and rollers is called combing. The
combing process is carried out in order to improve the quality
of the sliver coming out of the card. The process eliminates
short fibres, it achieves better parallelisation of fibres, it
straightens curls, and it removes neps and residue impurities.

Gilling sliver Combing machine Combed sliver

Objective –

To remove short fibres form the material

To remove all vegetable matter
To straighten and parallelize the fibre
To remove the naps

Process –

Combing is done after two gilling processes. Input of combing

machine is output of second gilling machine. Combing
machine produces crimped sliver as output.8 slivers are
provided as an input to the combing machine. All the slivers
are lapped and pressed together to form a single sliver then it
is combed and converted into crimped sliver.

60 | P a g e
Feeder – It feeds the carded sliver or grey rope.
Drafting - Straightening the individual fibres and
making them more parallel. Doubling – Slivers are
doubled together and remove variation in thickness

Machine specifications –

Company name – NSC n.

Schlumberger Model no. –
No. of machine – 4
Made in - China
Cylinder speed – 140 rpm
Feeding speed – 2.58m/min
Drafting speed – 35m/min

Output – Combed sliver width is 1.5-2”

Waste % - 18-20 %

Efficiency – 95%

Production rate – nip/min =120

Feed/nip
=7.2mm Noil%
= 20%
Feed load = 24*20gm
= (0.95*8*3*60*120*7.2*0.8*480)/1000*1000
=453.86kg/day/comber

Productivity – 80%

M/C Cost – 1.2 crores (approx.)

61 | P a g e
 Material -

STUDY OF TOW (WASTE%)

Waste % ={(weight of feed batch – weight of output sliver)/weight of
feed batch } × 100%
=( weight of the waste /feed batch weight) × 100
DATA:-
Feed batch weight = 98.1 kg Drum weight=10.75 kg
Weight of the output sliver(hackle sliver) with can=(47.05+43.83)kg
=90.88kg
Output sliver(hackle sliver) weight =(90.88-2× 10.75)kg
=69.38 kg
Weight of the waste=(98.1-69.38)kg
=28.72kg So, waste %=(28.72/98.1) × 100%
= 29.276%
[generally one can contain 1500 meter hackle sliver length, for this particular
batch, can contains is Total length of the output sliver=1200+1092
=2292 metre ]
So, Total length of the hackle sliver=(1200+1092) meter
=2292 meter

62 | P a g e
ROVING FRAME

63 | P a g e
ROVING LINE DIAGRAM
Creel

Sliver guide

Feed roller
Middle roller

Faller bar

Condenser

Delivery roller

Flyer
Bobbin

64 | P a g e
Roving frame:-
This Roving frame converted the thick drawn sliver into thin
sliver with low twist and produce fine roving which is suitable to
produce yarn by feeding into the ring frame.

Functions of roving frame :-

Various types of objective achieved by the simplex frame /
roving frame .
Followings are the main function of simplex frame.
 Creeling – Creeling is the first objective of simplex frame
arrangement .By creeling we can feed sliver to the drafting zone.
The creel is positively driven, so there is no false draft on sliver.
 Drafting- Attenuation of drawn sliver to produce required
amount of roving by drafting. Thick drawn sliver is converted
into thin roving by the drafting system.
 Twisting-Small amount of twist is inserted in the drafting
stand of fibres by the twisting .the amount of twist is very low.
 Building- Build the roving on to bobbin such a form which
will facilitate unwinding handling and transfer to the process.
 Winding- Produced or twisted roving is wound on the bobbin
by the winding process .this bobbin is feed to the ring frame and
this bobbin accelerates the next process so it is important.
 Doffing- It is the optional functions of speed frame doffing
could be done manually .

Machine specifications –
Company name –ZHE JIANG GOLDEN EAGLE CO. LTD
(GETM)
Model no. – FX405
No. of machine – 6

65 | P a g e
Made in - China
Flyer speed=549 rev/min
Twist =30.63 twist/min
No of layer =69
Complete one layer in = 2 min
Winding tension =1
Winding type = Flyer leading
Total no. of bobbin
=120 Creel type =
Positivity driven

In a set of machines, there were total of 15 carriage. One

carriage has 76 follow bar and in one follow-bar, there are 8
gills. One carriage holds 8 spindles having 4 wooden rollers.
Output – Final rove diameter is 1-2 mm

Waste % - 1%

Efficiency - Working hours of

machine - 6hrs Total working
hours - 8hrs (per shift)
Working hours/Total working hours*100
= 6/8*100
= 75%

Production rate – Speed = 600 rpm

Efficiency = 75% Twist
per meter =36
Wrapping= .45 g/m No.
66 | P a g e
of spindles= 120

Production = 600*.75*.45*120*60*24/1000*36
=972 kg/day/mc

Productivity – output/input*100
= 99/100*100 (waste % = 1%)
= 99% (approx.)

M/C Cost – 40 lacs (approx.)

Material -

Input of roving

Output of roving

67 | P a g e
ROVING PACKAGE YARN LENGTH
Roving Count = 2.75 lea
Full bobbin weight = 1.463 kg Empty bobbin weight= 390 gm
So, Roving weight = (1.463 -.390) kg
=1.073 kg
Length = Count×300× Weight
=2.75×300×1.073
=885225meter
=885.225 km

Waste percentage Analysis in Roving Frame

Bobbin Weight(g) Filled Bobbin Weight(g) Sliver Weight(g)
390 979.8 589.8
389.4 1064.4 675.0
385 999.2 614.2
389.5 981.9 592.4
384.4 1047.2 663.2
385.2 985.2 600.0
384.4 982.1 597.7
385.4 995.0 609.4
387.6 980.4 593.8
383.6 1086.3 702.7
388.8 1048.4 659.6
384.4 1197.6 813.2
387.2 1152.4 765.2
384.4 1196.8 812.4
385.2 1183.6 798.4
384.5 1160.8 766.3
383.8 1171.0 787.2
Total input Weight=11752g Total output Weight=11640 g
Waste=0.94%
68 | P a g e
BLEACHING PROCESS FOR
LINEN

69 | P a g e
BLEACHING PROCESS FOR LINEN
What is bleaching:-
Bleaching is chemical treatment employed for the removal of
natural colouring matter from the substrate.
The source of natural colour is organic compounds with conjugated
double bonds , by doing chemical bleaching the discolouration
takes place by the breaking the chromophore , most likely
destroying the one or more double bonds with in this conjugated
system. The material appears “whiter” after the bleaching.
Bleaching of linen fibre:-

Although linen fibres contain considerable amount of impurities,

linen materials are generally bleached
without prior scouring due to its alkali sensitivity. Bast fibres
content lignin. The lignin, together with hemicelluloses, provides
intercellular binding material known as lamella, holding the fibre
together. Linen is effectively bleached by hydrogen peroxide. A
consequence of the presence of lignin in bleached linen is that its
whiteness is not fast to light.
ProcessSequence:-
Kitchen box
PR Tank Main Tank
Kitchen box:-It feed with the required amount of chemicals for
bleaching.
P.R tank:- It store water ,and use when it is required.
Main tank: On main tank main operation of bleaching is done.

70 | P a g e
TABLE- 1
Chemical Details
Call 1 Contavan ice Heptolemg
Felsonalosp

Call 2 Contavan ICE Heptol

EMG Felsonalosp
Caustic flkes Hydrogen
peroxide

Hot wash 90˚C – 10 min

Nutracid NVM
Catalase BFSA
Cold wash

MACHINE NAME:- LORIS BELLINI

MODEL NAME:- IN- 2016180

PROCESS DATA-
Timing:-near about 6 hour to complete one bleaching process.
Water consumption:-250 litter per chamber.
Total no of chamber = 4
Total number of creel:- 8
Total no of stand in one creel:- 36
Total no of bobbin in one bleaching cycle:- 144

71 | P a g e
One stand holds – 4 bobbin
Bleaching loss:- 12%
Air pressure:-90 PSI or 6 bar.

MACHINE DISPLAY DATA:-

Apparatus temperature ( C ) 90
Apparatus level ( Cm ) 163.9
Differential pressure ( mwc ) 1.2
Motor current ( A ) 30.4
P/R Tank level ( Cm ) 267.2
P/R Tank temp. ( C ) 53.3
Kitchen tank 1 level ( cm ) 21.8
Temp. tank 1 38.8
Control panel temp. 37.5
Inverter Control ( % ) 80.0
Pressure ( psi ) 90

72 | P a g e
RING SPINNING SYSTEM.

73 | P a g e
RING FRAME LINE DIAGRAM
Creel(roving bobbin)

Rove guide pulley

Water tray

Water roller

Rove guide

Back arm(consist with top and bottom roller)

Middle roller Cradle apron(rubber)

Apron roller

Cot roller (Cot cleaner sponge)

Stop motion Thread guide

Ring-traveller

Spindle

74 | P a g e
OPERATION OF THE RING FRAME:-

Task of the ring spinning

Attenuate the roving until the required fineness is achieved.
To impart strength to fibre strand by twisting it.
To wind up the resulting yarn in a form suitable for storage,
transportation and further processing.
In linen ring spinning process water is use for wetting the roving
sliver, for this reason this spinning process also called “ WET
SPINNING” Process.

MAIN PARTS OF RING SPINNING MACHINE:-

 Creel- It hold the roving bobbin.
 Rove guide pulley-Guide the roving when it is withdrawn from
bobbin
 Water trey-Reserve the water
 Water roller-It pass the roving through the water trey
 Rove guide – It guide the roving when it is feed on feeding zone
 Back arm-Press the middle and back roller
 Middle roller-Hold the cradle apron
 Cradle apron- Guide the roving when it is pass through the
front roller and back roller zone
 Apron roller-It drive the cradle apron
 Cot roller- Drafting
 Cot cleaner-Clean the cot roller surface
 Stopper-It is a stop motion. It stop the drafting unit when yarn
end is break
 Thread guide-It guide the thread when it is wound on the cop
 Ring-traveller-Guide the yarn and twist is inserted
 Spindle-It holds the cop.

75 | P a g e
MACHINE DATA:-
Machine model name :- FX 505
Total no of spindle in 1 machine = 272 Total no machine = 39
Spindle height = 210 mm Ring diameter = 57 mm Cop height =
240 mm
Traveller type = C shape, Raw material of the traveller is plastic (
nylon ) Drafting angle = 45˚
Traveller speed = 200 rpm Spindle speed = 4136 rpm
Spindle drive = four spindle tape drive Twist = 559.26 t/m

(DRAFTING ARRANGEMENT )

76 | P a g e
 RING SPINNING SYSTEM DATA
M/C NO. SPINDLE TRAVELAR SPEED WINDING DRAFT TWIST COUNT
SPEED (r/min) SPEED ( Input 0.6
(r/min) (r/min) g/m )
1.FX505 6342 (6342×57×π)/ 1000 (6342 – (18.27×59/70) 5.01×(83/38)× 600/15.399
= 1135.66 1135.66) =15.399 (77/72) = 38.96
=5206.33 =11.70
2.FX505 5521 988.64 4532.35 (18.27×59/70) 11.70 38.96
=15.3999
4.FX505 6347 1136.56 5210.43 (18.27×59/70) 11.70 38.96
=15.3999
6.FX505 4742 849.15 3892.84 (18.27×73/70) 14.17 31.49
=19.053
16.FX505 4889 875.47 4013.52 (18.27×53/70) 27.63 25.90
=23.163
17.FX505 6042 1081.94 4960.05 (18.27×59/70) 11.70 38.90
=15.3999
26.FX505 5531 990.44 4540.55 (18.27×59/70) 11.70 43.37
=13.833
27.FX505 4900 877.45 4022.55 (18.27×72/70) 20.36 29.46
=18.792

TRAVELLER
Traveller is one of the main parts of ring spinning machine, it help
to wrap the yarn on cop, and it help to insert twist on yarn.
T/R = weight of 1000 pieces of traveller

77 | P a g e
 COP DETAILS
COUNT COP COP AVG WEIGHT OF WEIGHT OF
( Lea ) COLOUR DIAMETER DIAMETER COP (WITH YARN
YARN)
44 RED , SKY 33.27, 40.15 , 37.74 160 gm 90 gm
BLUE 39.8
100 LIGHT 120 gm 50 gm
GREEN ,
WHITE ,
BLACK
60 YELLOW, 38.61,45,40,56 48 180 gm 110 gm
MEHANDI,
LIGHT
GREEN, INK
BLUE,
ORANGE,
PEACOCK
BLUE
40 YELLOW, 35, 25, 47, 41, 49.4 160 gm 90 gm
PEACOCK 99
BLUE,
GREEN,
ORANGE
130 PURPLE 31.96, 37.93, 34.90 110 gm 40 gm
34.84

78 | P a g e
Radio Frequency ( RF )
Dryer

79 | P a g e
Radio Frequency ( RF ) Dryer
Conventional mode of Drying Textiles after they have been dyed is
a slow process. Textile industries can increase throughput and fill
orders more prominently using Radio Frequency (RF) Dryers. RF
system has capability to accelerate the drying process and shorten
production time. RF drying offers high volume, high speed and
high quality drying which is what is exactly needed in textile
industries. As wet garments or yarn of acrylic, cotton, nylon and
polyester blends pass through the drying chamber, the radio waves
vibrate the contained water molecules million times per second,
vaporizing them. Ventilator fans are used to remove damp air from
the drying chamber.
Advantages:
The major advantage is that it gives thorough, consistent drying in
less lime and also occupies less space. In addition to these,
following advantages are prominent:

 Faster Drying
 Faster Production
 Required low man power
 Energy Saving
 Less Down Time
 Lower Maintenance
 Less work in progress
 Space savings

80 | P a g e
Machine display data:-
Inserted power – 140 KVA
Max current – 230 A
RF 1 RF 2
RF power [ kw ] 80 60
Grid current [ A ] 1.80 2.13
Var capacitor ( % ) 99 100
Conveyor belt speed ( m/h ) 8.3 8.0

Machine Data:-
Machine manufacturing company :- STALAM
Model name :- SC – 150 KA
No of R F chamber – 2 [ RF 1 and RF 2 ] Conveyor belt speed :–
7.5 – 10
No of carriage between RF 1 and RF 2 :- 60
equired Distell water – 10 litter. [ Distell water is use for cooling
the valve ]
No of doff per shift – 250-300 Belt Width – 1780 cm
Belt length – 26060
RF 1 contain – 24 carriage
RF 2 contain – 24 carriage
1 carriage contain 86 no of cops

81 | P a g e
AUTOMATIC
WINDING MACHINE

82 | P a g e
AUTOMATIC WINDING MACHINE

INTRODUCRION:-
Winding is one of the most important operation, which is mainly
occurred in spinning section.
The creation of large yarn packages that can be easily unwound, is
called winding.
This makes using the yarn on subsequence machines both easier
and more economical.
Three zones of winding :-
Unwinding zone
Tension and clearing zone
Winding zone

OBJECTIVES:-
To prepare the bigger package from ring bobbin/cop.
To remove spinning faults.
To wax the material.
To improve the quality of yarn.

TYPES OF WINDING:-
There are two types of winding
Spindle drive
Friction drive

PARTS OF WINDING MACHINE:-

Cradle:-
Its function to provide setting to cone having package holders, it
lies on upper part of machine on drum.
Drum:
It a polished surface metallic drum slightly cone type. It has cut
marks or grooves cut in to it at its surface to help the cross winding
of packages.

83 | P a g e
Magazine: Magazine is the main component of the autoconer
machine its function is to hold the cops for winding its capacity lies
up to 6 cops.
Tension assembly: It provides surface tension to the yarn during
unwinding.
Yarn clearer: Its function is to removes the faults such as thick –
thin place, neps, hairiness accordion to the set value.
Waste suction pipe: During yarn cutting and clearing it sucks the
waste yarn.
Bobbin plate: Its function is to rotate bobbins one by one.
Bobbin holder: It hold the bobbin for unwinding process.
Wax motor: This motor is use for run wax bush continuously.
Wax bush: To provide smooth surface on yarn wax is applied .
Suction brush: When ever yarn breaks during winding the package
move in opposite direction, during this time it sucks the broken
yarn end from the package and take it for splicing.
Retie unit:It take the yarn from bobbin toward splicing
mechanism.
Splicer: The splicer provides a knot free joining of the two yarn
ends after yarn breakages.
For linen yarn spicing a small amount of water and air blast is use.

Machine Data:
Machine name:- Autoconer 6
Model name:- SAURER. Schlafhorst No of drum:- 50
Required air pressure for splicing :- 6.5-7 Bar Required air pressure
for machine:- 20- 25CFM Total no of machine:- 6
This Autoconer 6 machine has E3
properties –
E3 [ Energy Economics Ergonomics]

84 | P a g e
PACKAGING

85 | P a g e
Package density :-
Package density = weight / volume gm / Lt 3
Cone
Volume = 3.14 × h × r2 [ Here; h = height, r = radius ]
= 3.14× h× {r12 – r22} g/Lt3
Cheese
Volume = 3.14 × h × {(r12+ r1r2 + r22) – (r42 +r4r3+ r32)} g/Lt3

For Cheese:-
count = 60
full bobbin diameter (D1) = 165.08 mm r1 = 165.08/2
= 82.54 mm
Empty bobbin diameter (D2) = 63.34mm r2 = 63.34/2
= 31.67mm
Bobbin height = 148.3mm Full bobbin weight = 1.08 kg
Empty bobbin weight = 0.06kg
So package weight = (1.08 - 0.06) kg
= 1.02 kg

86 | P a g e
 Volume = 3.14 × h× {r12 – r22}
= 3.14× 148.3 × {(82.54)2 – (31.67)2}
= 2706804.5 mm3
= 2.71 Lt3
Package density = 1.02/2.71
= 0.376 kg/Lt3
= 376g/Lt3

Count(lea) Height(mm) Weight(kg) Diameter(mm) Package density(g/Lt3)

36 147.33 (1.04-.06) = D1 = 152, r1 = 440.33
0.98 76
D2 = 62.21,r2 =
31.105
66 148.3 (0.91 – 0.06) = D1 = 150.08, r1 386.6
0.84 = 75.04
D2= 62.21, r2 =
31.105
44 150 (1 – 0.06)= D1 = 166.02, r1 336.77
0.94 =83.01
D2 = 62.21, r2 =
31.105

For Cone
Volume =1/3 × 3.14× h {(r12 + r1r2 + r22) – ( r42 + r3r4+ r32)} g/lit3
Count = 40 lea
Full bobbin Weight = 1.71 kg Empty bobbin weight = 0.03kg So, package
weight = (1.71-0.03)
= 1.68 kg

87 | P a g e
Height (h) = 147.88 mm

Top full bobbin diameter (d1) = 185.73 mm , r1 = 92.86 mm Bottom full

bobbin diameter (d2) = 203.85 mm , r2 = 101.92 mm Top empty bobbin dia
(d3) = 38.51 mm , r3 = 19.25 mm
Bottom empty bobbin dia (d4) = 62.85 mm , r4 = 31.42 mm So, full bobbin
volume
= 1/3 × 3.14 × 147.88 { (92.86)2 + 92.86× 101.92 +(101.92)2}
= 4.4096 Lt3
Empty bobbin volume
= 1/3× 3.14 × 147.88 {(19.25)2+ 31.42× 19.25 +(31.42)2}
=0.3039 Lt3
So, the package volume = (4.4096 – 0.3039)
= 4.10 Lt3
Package density = 1.68/4.10
= 0.409 kg/Lt3
= 409 g/lt3

Count Height Weight D1(r1) D2(r2) D3(r3) D4(r4) Package

(lea) (mm) (kg) (mm) (mm) (mm) (mm) density
(g/lit3)
66 152.06 (1.02- 167.24, 151.6, 62.67, 38.484, 362
0.03) 83.62 75.8 31.335 19.242
0.99
44 148.41 (1.71- 197.65, 180.31, 61.54, 38.26, 434
0.03) 98.825 90.155 30.77 19.13
=1.68

40 147.88 (1.72- 203.85, 185.73, 62.85, 38.51, 409

0.03) 101.925 92.865 31.425 19.255
=1.69
100 141.90 (1- 175.34, 160, 62.52, 37.25, 340
0.03) 87.67 80 31.26 18.625
=0.97

88 | P a g e
SPINNING LAB

89 | P a g e
TESTING
The quality of a product or process is checked before it is put into
large scale usage. The quality of the product ,its performance, and
its reliability are the key factors while testing is performed. Testing
can be defined as the methods or protocols adopted to
verify/determined the process properties of a product. It can be
divided primarily into two types: regular process and quality
assurance testing. Routine testing helps to streamline the daily
process.
Quality assurance testing helps the process or product in the long
run to establish credibility. Testing can also be defined as the
procedures adopted to determine products suitability and quality.
Testing is a key in a gauging product quality, ensuring product
regularity compliance and assessing the performance of textile
materials. It is a vital basic tool during the processing of a textile
raw material into the product. It also helps the distributors and
customer to determine the end product quality. it can also includes
the analysis of the property of a known or unknown material. it can
be summarised as the application of engineering facts and science
to determine the quality and properties of textile product. mainly it
involves the use of technique, tools, instrument and machines in
the lab for the evolution of the properties of these different forms
of textiles.
OBJECTIVE OF TESTING
The main objective of textile testing are---
To check the quality and suitability of raw material
To monitor the production(process control)
To asses the quality of final product
To investigate the faulty materials
To set standards benchmarks
For R&D (research and development )purpose
For new product development.

90 | P a g e
SPLICER SCANNER

Dimensions and weight of the instrument---

Length—450mm, height—330mm, depth—140mm, net weight
11.5kg
Alimentation data
Frequency—50Hz,
Tension—230V single phase + PE
Tolerance of electrical alimentation
Tension speed: ± 10%of normal tension

Instrument characteristics
Range of measure: FORCE from 0 to 60N (0-6kg);
ELONGATION from 0.5% to 45%(0-110mm);
Electromagnetic clamps with automatic closure are supplied with
the instrument,
Manual mechanic clamps for slippery or resistant yarn(above 30N)
are available as optional.
Clamps distance:250 mm
Peak sensibility=90%
Testing speed: adjustable up to 1000mm/min
Pretension: adjustable and automatically applied
Output: force and elongation results, statics (min, mean, max. force
of elongation, CV%), tenacity(RKM).
Test mode: 3 different modes available with comparison of results
with a reference sample
Data output: on in-built printer and on USB memory card.

91 | P a g e
Machine data
Company name : MESDANLAB
Mode :Strength tester
Test type: A Cotton Speed(mm/min): 1000
Count unit: Ne
Count: 50
Ten[cN/Tex]: 20.867
RKM: 21.252

STAT. ELONGATION(%)
Min : 2.76, Max : 4.52,
Mean: 3.45, CV% : 15.39,
S.D. : 0.53 , Range :51.04.
STAT. FORCE(g)
Min : 221 ,Max :286,
Mean :251, CV% :9.46,
S.D. :23.75, Range:25.90

92 | P a g e
USTER TESTER 6 ( IMPERFECTION INDEX
MEASUREMENT INSTRUMENT )
The new USTER TESTER 6 has all the accuracy and power
spinning mills have come to
expect from this renowned
laboratory instrument
family. But its ability to
integrate data from other
quality measurement
sources creates a true Total
Testing Centre, analysing
every spinning mill process
with practical guidance on
both quality and wider mill
management issues.
This brand-new USTER is Capacitive Sensor (Sensor CS), as well
as a new Sensor HL, for hairiness length classification at up to 800
m/min.
Sensors OH and H -- use to detect the protruding fibre(within the
length of3mm).
Sensor OM-- Colour variations and shadowing can be traced back
to irregularities in yarn diameter, density and shape.
Sensor OI --Dust and trash particles can cause serious problems in
subsequent fabric manufacturing processes. Sensor OI prevents
this, by accurately measuring trash and dust particles in the yarn.
The uses of this instrument is for testing evenness and
imperfections parameter of the yarn.
If the number of imperfections rises above the usual level, this can
be attributable to both raw material and machine-related causes.
Thick places and neps also occur when spinning elements or other
fibre-guiding machine components are worn or damaged. Bent,
broken or notched clothing teeth on the opening roller in particular
can cause steep increases in the numbers of neps and thick places.

93 | P a g e
 Wear or deposits in the fibre guide channel also result in fibres
accumulating at these points and larger or smaller clumps of fibre.
Depending on their mass, these clumps result either in ends down
or – if spun in – in defects in the yarn and the final fabric

DATA

No. Total IP Thin Thin CVm 10m CVm 3m DR 1.5m

Sens. -30 % -40% % % 5%
/km /km /km %

1/11 22980 14758 8233 5.71 9.26 63.16

11/1 24025 14870 8565 6.25 9.59 60.90
21/1 24435 15348 9188 5.35 8.37 59.77
31/1 23413 14995 8618 6.01 9.44 66.64
5/1 25913 15735 9618 6.00 10.30 68.05
6/1 24983 15653 8893 5.42 8.26 63.53
7/1 23700 14890 8193 4.70 8.34 58.27
8/1 23593 14930 8693 5.22 9.61 72.93
9/1 25920 15945 9435 5.94 9.09 61.65
10/1 24330 15175 9010 5.30 8.55 64.66
Mean CV S 24329 15230 8844 5.59 9.08 63.95
Q95 4.1 2.7 5.4 8.5 7.5 6.8
Min Max 1009 418 477 0.47 0.68 4.34
722 299 314 0.34 0.49 3.11
22980 14758 8193 4.70 8.26 58.27
25920 15945 9618 6.25 10.30 72.93

94 | P a g e
TENSOMASTER
(Automatic single yarn strength tester)
Physical Dimensions
Yarn stand (L × B × H) :
300×450×1780
Machine ((L× B ×H)
:695×600×1600
Weight – 250kg with creel stand.
Technical specification
Applicable standards— ASTM
D2256, ISO 2062, IS 1671.
Capacity— 50Newton (opyional
100N and 500N)
Testing speed—50 to
5000mm/min
Sample length—100 to 500 mm
(instep of 1 mm)
Elongation range— 900% for
100mm sample length, 100% for
500 mm sample length
Clamping mode—Pneumatic
clamping type
Numerical results – Breaking strength, elongation, RKM value ,
time to break and work done
Graphical results—Force- Elongation Curve, Stroke diagram,
Frequency distribution curve, Scatter diagram& AIO graph
Pre tension—Auto per tension depending on the count selected
Compressed air supply—14m3/hour at 6 to 7 bar dried and
filtered air Power supply—Single phase 220v AC @50Hz
Power consumption—1KVA

95 | P a g e
:DATA:
DEPERMENT –QSA YARN SPEC -36.05/1 nm
TEMPERATURE -29.20 C
MACHINE NO -7202-03-04MIX PRE-TENSION -13.87 gram
SAMPLE (S) -4
SHIFT –G GAUGE LENGTH -500 mm
READING/SAMPLE -10
OPERATOR – ADMIN TEST SPEED-5000 mm/min
CLIENT/PARTY –SPINNING CLAMP PRESSURE -
5.23 bar - REMARKS FINAL - TEST
LIMITS –

FIBROBLOCK BI4
Application—
The instrument intended to be used in textile testing laboratories to
prepare samples of sliver ,Roving and Coarser yarns of a Pre
determined length to determine the linear density.

Technical Specification— Applicable standards—IS 4952

Drum Circumference – 1 yard (914.4±2 mm)
Drum width— 14.5 inch (370mm)
Bobbin Accommodation—up to 14 inch bobbin size
Top roller—Dia 50 mm, coated with natural rubber
Counter – Re Settable 8 digit digital battery powered LCD
counter(Least count :1)
Physical Dimensions( L×B×H)—Size (LBH): 630×300×480mm
Weight—30Kg(Approx).

96 | P a g e
AUTOMATIC ELECTRONIC FIBRE BUNDLE STRENGTH
TESTER
Model—AEF200J for jute, AEF02MF for multiple fibre.
Features—
Micro control based test equipment for measurement and
indication of breaking strength, quality index (tenacity) and
elongation of fibre bundle sample after test.
Automatic gripping arrangement of fibre sample. No manual
preparation for gripping
Auto detection of rupture moment and hence instant result.
Operation and data transfer facility from test equipment to PC
through USB converter
User configuration set point of bundle weight of fibre sample
through panel switches.
Fibre type selection through front panel switch and indication
selected fibre through corresponding LED (for multiple fibre).
Specifications—
Working temperature-- 0 to 70 ,
Relative humidity—0 to 99%
Power input --180 to 240 volt AC, 50Hz,
Load capacity --100kg ,
Elongation—Estimated only in percentage of sample length.
Bundle weight—To set in mg,
Resolution—0.1kg,
Power consumption—5W idle , 36 peak.
Reading refresh rate – 1 sample/sec(idling), 10 sample/sec.
Quality Index/ Tenacity(gm/tex)=(125×Breaking Strength( in
kg))/Bundle weight( in/mg).
The recommended bundle weight for different types of sample
fibre: JUTE: 200mg to 400mg(for weak fibre take more weight),
Flax:250mg to 350 mg
Ramie: 200mg to 300mg
Sunnhemp: 200mg to 250 mg
97 | P a g e
Digioven :

Model no—MAG-C1301
Application—
MAG Digioven determine the effect of
ageing on various physical properties of
different materials may be carried out, by
heating the material under test , inside an
oven so that the effect of long term ageing
are reproduced with in a much shorter
duration of time. For this evaluation ,
physical properties of the material under
test are determined before ageing , and
again after ageing the test specimen at the
specified temperature, for a set duration of
time and subsequent cooling to the room
temperature before conducting the
test again.
Applicable Standard(s)—IS:687- 1992, ISO: 105-CO,6-
1997,AATCC 61-1994
Technical Specification—
Usable volume—120 litters (450mm×450mm×600mm)
Temperature range—Ambient to 180
Accuracy-- ±1
Heater capacity—750watt
Power supply—Single phase 220vHz
Consumption : 1500watts
Physical Dimenssions: Size (WDH): 670×640×1120mm
Weight :65Kg

98 | P a g e
EleWrap XT VER.2.1.1
Application—
This instrument is
intended to be used in
Textile Testing
laboratories to prepare Lea
skeins for a pre-
determined length and
number of turns to determine the linear density(Count)of yarn
and/or to measure the strength of lea.
Technical Specification— Capacity: 10Skleins at a time
Swift perimeter of reel :
1371.6mm(1.5 yards)±2.5
Loop spread : 25mm±3.0mm
Pre programmable range: 5 to 999 revolutions
Reeling speed : 155±5 RPM
Power supply: Single phase 220v AC @50Hz
Power consumption: 120 watts
Applicable standards: ASTM D1578,D1907, D2260 ,IS
1315&1671
Physical Dimensions (L×B×H): 1150*570*500mm (Dimension
of instrument only)
Weight: 25Kg (Accessories included)

99 | P a g e
WHITENESS STANDARD
WHITENESS STD

54.00-56.90 1

57.00-59.90 2

60.00-62.90 3

63.00-65.90 4

66.00-68.90 5

69.00-71.90 6

72.00-74.90 7

75.00-77.90 8

78.00-80.90 9

81.00-89.90 0

100 | P a g e
YARN DYEING

101 | P a g e
DYEING:-
Colouration of textile (fibre, yarn, fabric)
Dyeing operation is performed by the reaction between fibre and
dyes. Some dyes are water soluble and some are water insoluble.
Some fibre has affinity to dye, some have no affinity to dyes. So
dyeing depends on both fibre and dyes chemical properties. Before
dyeing we have to consider this factor.
In linen yarn dyeing basically two dyeing process are use -
Reactive Dyeing;
Vat Dyeing

[Link] DYE:-
Reactive dyes are the most common and huge uses dyes all over
the world. Most of the dyeing operation of natural fibre is done by
reactive dyes. Reactive dyes have a worldwide acceptance to the
dyeing technologist for dyeing cotton.
Reactive dye is only class of dyes which makes Co-Valente bond
with the fibre and becomes a part of it. This can be described as:
Reactive dyes + fibre = reactive dye- fibre (Co-Valente bonding )
If the general structure of a reactive dye is “ R-B-X” then, R-B-X +
fibre = R-B-X-Fibre (dyed fibre)
Here,
R= chromophore group ( Azo, Anthaquinone, Phthalocyanine,
Metal complex group)
B = Bridging group (Imino, Ethyl &Methyl ,Oxide,Sulphide
group)
X= Reactive group ( -Cl,- Br –SH, -OCH, etc)

102 | P a g e
Chemical structure Of Reactive Dye:-

Properties Of Reactive Dyes:

Reactive dye is anionic in nature.
Reactive dye is a water soluble dye.
They have better wash and light fastness properties.
They have better substantivity.
They form strong co-valent bond with the cellulosic fibre.
Alkaline condition is must required for dyeing.
Electrolyte is must for exhaustion of dyes in the fibre.
A certain amount of dyes are hydrolysed during application.
Wide range of colour can be produced with reactive dyes.
10 Comparatively cheap in price.

103 | P a g e
Influencing factors:
Dyeing of cellulosic fibre with reactive dyes is influenced by some
factor. Following factors should consider during dyeing operation.
pH: reactive dyeing is done in an alkaline condition for this reason
pH of the dyeing bath should control. pH should be between 11.5 -
11.
Temperature : temperature should fix depending on the brand of
reactive dyes.
Concentration of electrolyte: concentration of electrolyte depends
on the type of shade.
Time: dyeing time should be between 60-90 minutes.
Liquor ratio: huge amount of water is use during dyeing operation.
Higher the liquor ratio betters the efficiency of dyeing.

VAT DYES :-

Vat dyes are different from reactive dyes. Vat dyes are used for
colouring cellulosic fibre .
The word vat is come from vessel, vat dyes can be applied in a vat
for colouration textile products. Vat dyes are natural colouring
materials which are solubilized in a vat by the fermentation process
called vatting.
Vat dyes are insoluble in water but it becomes in soluble form by
vatting process. The process of converting insoluble vat dyes into
soluble from is known as vatting.

104 | P a g e
Chemical structure of vat dyes

PROPERTIES OF VAT DYES:

Vat dyes have lots of properties which are required to remember
before and during dyeing process. Followings are the main
properties of vat dyes-
Vat dyes are natural colouring dyes.
Vat dyes are insoluble in water.
Vatting process is needed for making the insoluble vat dyes into
soluble form.
Final colour is developed by the oxidation process.
Vatting is done in alkaline condition.
Fastness properties of the dyes are excellent but its rubbing
properties are not so good.
Sometimes, it causes different types of skin disease.
Vat dyes are mainly used for colouring cellulosic fibres.
Stability of the colour in the fibre is excellent.
Wide range of colour can be achieved by these dyes.
Application of vat dyes is limited in practical life.
Vat dyes are expensive in price.

105 | P a g e
COMPARISSIONS BETWEEN REACTIVE DYE AND VAT
DYE

REACTIVE DYE VAT DYE

MECHANISM Covalent bond {converting water-
formation. insoluble to a water-
Good affinity for the soluble}.
cellulosic fibres. Red ox reaction.
Smaller molecule size. Reducing agents
provide attraction for
the fibres.
STRUCTURE

SOLUBILITY Easily soluble in water. In-soluble in water.

Good affinity for water. Adding reducing agents
Polar nature. to become soluble.

CHARGEABILITY Negatively charged. Negatively charged.

Remove negative Alkali is used for
charge by adding salt, removing charge.
i.e. Nacl
SUBSTANTIVITY Good substantively for Substantively is good
the fibres. for cellulosic fibres.
High degree of fixation High fixation because of
efficiency. pH Range: 7- reducing agents.
11 pH range : 12-15

FASTNESS Washing : good Washing : weak

PROPERTIES Rubbing : moderate Lightening : good
Lightening : good Chemicals : average

106 | P a g e
 Chemical : stable Perspiration : good
Perspiration : good
APPLIANCES They are applied to They are applied to
cellulosic, proteinic and cellulosic and proteinic
polyamide fibres; fibres; i.e. viscose
i.e. : cotton , wool rayon, wool.

COLOUR RANGE Gamete range of Large range of colours.

colours. Dark shades ability.
Brighter shades. All Major colours : indigo,
colours are achievable. green and
black.

ENVIRONMENT Non-environment Non-environmental

BEHAVIOUR friendly. friendly.
Carcinogenic dye. Cancer causing dye
.
COST average Expensive

107 | P a g e
FLOW CHART OF DYEHOUSE
Grey packages from Spinning

Cupping for density maintain

Loading of packages as per recipe

Dyeing

Hydro extractor

R F dryer

Testing Two in one ply

Dispatch
RKM

Fastness Friction index

108 | P a g e
DYEING MACHINE PARTS
Colour Kitchen Tank
Chemical Kitchen
Tank

P/R Tank

Main Tank

Colour Kitchen Tank:- It Contain The Colour As Per Recipe

Chemical Kitchen Tank:-Contain The Chemical To Next Process
P/R Tank:- To Store The Colour And Chemical And Supply To
The Main Tank As Per Requirment
Main Tank:-Main Dyeing Process Occur In It

109 | P a g e
DYEING MACHINE DETAILS
Machine name – LORIS BILINI
Model – RBNVI 270/320 Type – VESSEL
O.C N˚ = FICM0869 N.F – 161920

MACHINE DETAILS:-
Machine manufacturing company :LORIS BELLINI

No of spindle on carriage :-
Machine NO Useable Capacity Max. Capacity
LB-181 160KG 192KG
LB-182 80 KG 96KG
LB-183 80KG 96KG
LB-184 80KG 96KG
LB-185 80KG 96KG
LB-186 80KG 96KG
LB-187 80KG 96KG
LB-188 80KG 96KG
LB-189 80KG 96KG
LB-190 80KG 96KG
LB-191 7KG 9.6KG
LB-192 7KG 9.6KG
LB-193 7KG 9.6KG
LB-194 7KG 9.6KG
LB-195 7KG 9.6KG
LB-196 7KG 9.6KG
LB-197 2KG 2.4KG
LB-198 2KG 2.4KG
LB-199 2KG 2.4KG
LB-200 2KG 2.4KG
LB-201 2KG 2.4KG
MACHINE MODEL TOTAL NO OF SPINDLE
LB – 182 to 190 8
LB - 181 16

110 | P a g e
CHEMICAL FUNCTION

CHEMICAL NAME FUNCTION

LIFIBRAL ANTOX SEQUESTEING AGENT
IMERAL NLF WETTING AGENT
ALBAFLOW CIR DEAREATING AGENT
CAUSTIC LYE STRONG ALKALI
H2O2 BLEACHING AGENT(STRONG
OXIDING
AGENT)
OPTISOL HIS WETTING AGENT
LYOCOL RDNI DISPERSING AGENT
UNIPEROL (PEREGALP) LEVELLING AGENT
HYDROS(SODIUM HYDRO STRONG REDUCING AGENT
SULPHITE)
GLUABER SALT EXHUSTING
AGENT/ELECTROLYTE
LUDIGOL HYDROGEN PEROXIDE
RESIST SALT MILD OXIDING AGENT
VERLON DET SOAPING AGENT
LUFIBROL N LIQ BASE OF FORMIC ACID
ACETIC ACID ACID
SODA ASH MILD ALKALI
ERIPON WTE SOAPING AGENT
OPTIFIX WEIN LIQ DYE FIXING AGENT
PERIFIL 210 & YPM SOFTNER

111 | P a g e
HOT WASH PROCESS FOR LINEN

MACHINE 80KG
CHEMICAL 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
LEVEL
LEONIL HSI 350 400 500 550 600 650 700 750
ML
PERSCOUR 175 200 250 275 300 325 350 375
ML
MACHINE 160KG
LEONIL HSI 500 600 700 800 900 1000 1100 1200
ML
PERSCOUR 250 300 350 400 450 500 550 600
ML
MACHINE 2 & 7 KG
LEONIL HSI 13 25 35 45 55 65 70 80
ML PERSCOUR
ML 5 13 18 23 28

112 | P a g e
 LEVEL TABLE:-

LORIS 80Kg FOR VAT SHADE -10%

DEPTH
Volume 350 400 450 500 550 650 700 750
Total pkg 24 25to32 33to40 41to48 49to56 57to64 65to72 73to80
LEVEL 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
FOR REACTIVE SHADE 0%
DEPTH
Volume 225 250 300 350 400 450 500 550
Total pkg 24 25to32 33to40 41to48 49to56 57to64 65to72 73to80
LEVEL 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
LORIS 160 FOR VAT SHADE -10%
Kg DEPTH
Volume 500 600 700 800 900 1000 1100 1200
Total pkg 48 49to64 65to80 81to96 97to112 113to128 129to144 145to160
LEVEL 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
FOR VAT SHADE 0%
DEPTH
Volume 350 400 450 500 525 600 600 650
Total pkg 48 49to64 65to80 81to96 97to112 113to128 129to144 145to160
LEVEL 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
LORIS 7KG FOR SHADE
VAT/REACTIVE DEPTH
Volume 25 35 45 55 65 70 80
No of pkg 2 3 4 5 6 7 7
LEVEL 2 3 4 5 6 7 7

113 | P a g e
 RECIPE SLIP

VAT DYEING BLUE BC

SHADE 5V494/36 ORDER CYCLE BLUE BC
LINEN NO VAT
SHADE NAME 5V494/36 % 37 M/C NO LB`
LINEN
COUNT 26 NML QTY 37 VOLUME 450
LOT NO 1007376002 SO NO 46116704/6
DATE OF DYEING

DYEING % 0%
INDANTHREN 0.900 0.9 333.000 GM
BLUE
BC
NOVATIC BRILL 0.580 0.058 21.460 GM
RED
3B
0 0 0 0.0000 GM
% #VALUE! GM
CHEMICALS
OPTISOL HIS 0.8 ML/LT 360 ML
LYOCOL RDNI 2 ML/LT 900 ML
CAUSTIC LYE 16 GPL 7200 GM ML
UNIPEROL(PEREGA 0.7 ML/LT 315
L
P)
ALBAFLOW CIR 0.25 ML/LT 112.5
SODIUM NITRITE 2 GPL 900 GM
SODIUM HYDRO 1 GPL 1800 GM 250
SULPHATE
HYDROGEN 2 ML/LT 900 ML
PEROXIDE
RESIST SALT 1 GPL 450 ML
VERLON DET 1 ML/LT 450 ML
LUFIBROL N LIQ 1.2 ML/LT 540 ML
PERIFIL 210 0 % 0 ML

BATCH START 11:15

TIME
BATCH END TIME 4:30
TOTAL TIME 5HR 15 MIN
STANDRAD TIME 5HR
REMARK

114 | P a g e
RECIPE SLIP
FULL BLEACH WHITE

LEVEL 8
SHADE NO 2000 ORDER CYCLE
NO
SHADE NAME WHITE PACKAGE 80 M/C NO
S
COUNT 40/1 QTY 96 VOLUME 750
LOT NO 1007377141 S O NO

DENIM ADD % QTY

RUN AT 60 DEG 20
MIN
LUFIBROL ANTOX 0.5 ML/LT 375 ML 3
IMEROL NLF O.25 ML/LT 187.5 ML 3
BLEACHING
RUN AT 102 DEG 40
MIN
CAUSTIC LYE 1.6 GPL 1200 GM 8
IMEROL NLF 0.25 ML/LT 187.5 ML 8
SIRRIX USB 1.8 ML/LT 1350 ML 8
SKAY WHITE HCE 0.4 % 384 ML 8
LIQ
CONTAVAN ICE 0.2 ML/LT 150 ML 8
HYDROGEN 3.5 ML/LT 2625 ML 14
PEROXIDE
HOT WASH AT 90
DEG
10 MIN
SKAY WHITE HCE 0.1 % 96 ML 20
LIQ
RUN AT 55 DEG 20
MIN
LIFIBROL N LIQ O.3 ML/LT 225 ML 31
BACTOSOL SOAP 0.3 ML/LT 225 ML 38
RUN AT 55 DEG 20
MIN
LIFIBROL N LIQ O.25 ML/LT 187.5 ML
PERIFIL 210 2.9 % 2784 ML 45

BATCH START TIME

BATCH END TIME

115 | P a g e
TOTAL TIME
STANDRAD TIME

REMARK

TIMING FOR VAT DYEING PROCESS

TIME DIFFERENTIAL FLOW RATE ( LITER /

PRESSURE (DP) (BAR) MIN )

11:15 6.2 733.6

11:30 6.0 727.3
11:45 6.1 764.0
12:00 6.0 749.4
12:15 5.6 753.8
12:30 5.4 742.1
12:45 5.0 772.7
1:00 5.2 787.9
1:15 5.5 783.1
1:30 6.1 730.0
1:45 6.0 766.6
2:00 5.5 758.2
2:15 5.8 727.2
2:30 5.9 719.7
2:45 6.1 710.6
3:00 4.0 709.5
3:15 5.9 740.3
3:30 6.4 719.3
3:45 6.5 708.7
4:15 DRAIN -
4:30 DRAIN -

116 | P a g e
TIMING FOR FULL BLEACHING PROCESS

TIME DIFFERENTIAL FLOW RATE ( LT / MIN )

PRESSURE
( BAR )
12:10 10.4 272.0
12:30 9.0 275.4
12:50 9.3 298.0
1:10 7.5 380.2
1:30 7.6 375.7
1:50 7.7 336.0
2:10 7.5 342.8
2:30 7.5 342.0
2:50 DRAIN DRAIN
3:10 10.0 297.4
3:30 7.8 341.0
3:50 7.7 361.1
4:10 DRAIN DRAIN

117 | P a g e
TIMING FOR REACTIVE PROCESS
TIME DIFFERENTIAL FLOW RATE ( LT / MIN )
PRESSURE
( BAR )
05:45 11.8 578.7
06:00 6.1 576.2
06:15 11.1 607.3
06:30 10.1 636.6
06:45 08.2 621.9
07:15 08.0 598.3
07:30 11.3 611.7
07:45 11.5 597.4
08:00 11.3 599.1
08:15 11.00 630.7
08:30 11.00 606.3
09:00 09.00 678.1
09:15 12.08 509.7
09:30 DRAIN DRAIN

PRODUCTION PER DAY

Total = 2200 kg Reactive dye = 600 kg Vat dye = 1000kg Bleaching =
600kg
No of lot per day = 2.6

118 | P a g e
 RECIPE SLIP

REACTIVE DYE
LEVEL 2

SHADE NO 1R262/36 NML ORDER NO CYCLE

SHADE NAME PINK PACKAGES 2 M/C NO

COUNT 36 NML QTY 2 RFD VOLUME 20
DYEING 20
VOLUME
LOT NO 6117 SO NO DESKLOOM

RFD CHEMICALS ADD % QTY

LIFIBROL ANTOX 0.6 ML/LT 12
IMEROL NLF 0.4 ML/LT 8
ALBAFLOW CIR 0.25 ML/LT 5
BLEACHING
CHEMICAL
CAUSTIC LYE 1.5 GPL 30
IMEROL NLF 0.5 C 10
SIRIX USB 0.8 ML/LT 16
HYDROGEN 2 ML/LT 40 ML
PEROXIDE
LUFIBROL N 0.6 ML/LT 12 ML
BACTASOL SAP 0.3 ML/LT 6 ML
DYEING % 0%
AVITERA RED SE 0.0550 0.0550% 1.100 GM
AVITERA BLUE SE 0.00060 0.0006% 0.012 GM
0.0000 0.0000% 0.000 GM
0
TEX WASH DET 0 ML/LT 0
RECO ACID ABS 0.2 ML/LT 4 ML
GLUBAR SALT 30 GPL 600 GM
SODA ASH 8 GPL 160 GM
CAUSTIC LYE 0 ML/LT 0 GM
2
ERIPON WFE 1 ML/LT 20 ML
ACETIC ACID 0.3 ML/LT 6 ML

119 | P a g e
LUFIBROL N 0.3 ML/LT 6 ML
OPTIFIX WE IN LIQ 1 ML/LT 20 ML
LUFIBROL N LIQ 0.4 ML/LT 8 ML
PERIFIL 210 0 % 0 ML

START TIME
END TIME
TOTAL TIME
STANDRAD TIME

REMARKS

COUNT USES IN DYEING

FOR COTTON:-
SL N0 COUNT
1. 20/1 s INDIAN COMPACT YARN
2. 24/1 s INDIAN SLUB YARN
3. 40/1 s INDIAN COMPACT YARN
4. 45/1 s INDIAN SLUB YARN
5. 50/1 s ORGANIC COMPACTYARN
6. 50/1 s INDIAN COMPACT YARN
7. 60/1 s GIZA COMPACT YARN
8. 70/1 s SUPIMA YARN
9. 70/1 s GIZA COMPACT YARN
10. 80/1 s SUPIMA YARN

FOR LINEN:-
SL NO COUNT
1 36 NML
2 26 NML
3 39 NML
4 42 NML
5 48 NML
6 36 NML DELAVE

120 | P a g e
STANDER OPERATING PROCEDURE ( SOP ) FOR VAT DYEING
Clean the machine and platform
Clean the pot of labomat machine.
Make fresh dye solution.
Make hanks as per required weight and count yarn on warp reel Machine.
After the pipetting and put in laboment.
Wet the hanks and squeeze it property. Put the yarn holders, Add these
hanks one by one in dye pots.
Now close the dye pots and shake well before adding in to the machine.
Load dye pots in Loboment machine. Load Sensor dye. pof first.
While loading each dye pot bring pot catcher in bottom positing Using
drive mouse.
After loading dye pots close the door of labomat machine. start the labomat
programmer.
Start the labomat m/c.
Go to main menu-2
Click or’ load’ display between
select require programmed.
Click on open display button.
click start display bottom.
After reaching the required temp. hydros dosing .
After completer of dyeing process of now below instruction.
Wear the resistance hand groves. [Link] the door.
Remove dye pots one by one from labomat m/c and keep it in pot stand.
Take the pot sand near the top.
Open the laps of dyes post using allen key. Remove hank from port. [Link]
rinsing of hank me by one under top water (cold water).
Then do oxidation in open betaken bath with Pero side at 60° c at 20 min.
Do rinsing of sample one by one under tap water. [Link] rinsing the hank
load on open beaker looping bath. [Link] hot wash(80°c for 20 min).
Then cold wash.
Keep the sample in hot air oven for drying

121 | P a g e
STANDER OPERATING PROCEDURE ( SOP ) FOR REACTIVE
DYEING
Clean the machine and platform
Clean the pot of labomat machine.
Make fresh dye solution.
Make hanks as per required weight and count yarn on warp reel
Machine.
After the pipetting and put in laboment.
Wet the hanks and squeeze it property. Put the yarn holders,
Add
these hanks one by one in dye pots.
Now close the dye pots and shake well before adding in to the machine.
Load dye pots in Loboment machine. Load Sensor dye. pof first.
While loading each dye pot bring pot catcher in bottom positing Using
drive mouse.
After loading dye pots close the door of labomat machine. start the labomat
programmer.
Start the labomat m/c.
Go to main menu-2
Click or’ load’ display between
select require programmed.
Click on open display button.
click start display bottom.
After reaching the required temp. hydros dosing .
After completer of dyeing process of now below instruction.
Wear the resistance hand groves. [Link] the door.
Remove dye pots one by one from labomat m/c and keep it in pot stand.
Take the pot sand near the top.
Open the laps of dyes post using allen key. Remove hank from port.
Do rinsing of hank me by one under top water (cold water).
Then do oxidation in open betaken bath with Pero side at 60° c at 20 min.
After completion of soaping process do cold wash. [Link] cold wash ,
Neutralize sample.
21. Keep the sample is hot air oven for drying .

122 | P a g e
HYDRO EXTRACTION
After dyeing the wet packages are sent to the hydro extraction. 60-
70% water are extracted by the hydro extraction.
Total 48 packages are dried at a time by this process .it works like
squeezer.

MACHINE DATA:- Machine name - DETTIN S.P.A Model name –

BERTA 36 Power supply – 415 v 50 HZ Process time – 9min+ 1 Sec.

123 | P a g e
Radio Frequency ( RF ) Dryer
Conventional mode of Drying Textiles after they have been dyed is
a slow process. Textile industries can increase throughput and fill
orders more prominently using Radio Frequency (RF) Dryers. RF
system has capability to accelerate the drying process and shorten
production time. RF drying offers high volume, high speed and
high quality drying which is what is exactly needed in textile
industries. As wet garments or yarn of acrylic, cotton, nylon and
polyester blends pass through the drying chamber, the radio waves
vibrate the contained water molecules million times per second,
vaporizing them. Ventilator fans are used to remove damp air from
the drying chamber.

Advantages:
The major advantage is that it gives thorough, consistent drying in
less lime and also occupies less space. In addition to these,
following advantages are prominent:
1. Faster Drying

2. Faster Production

3. Required low man power

4. Energy Saving

5. Less Down Time

6. Lower Maintenance

Less work in progress

Space savings

124 | P a g e
Machine Data:-

Machinename :-STALAM Model name :- SC – 150 KA No of R F

chamber – 1
Conveyor belt speed :– For Linen 10 ;
For Cotton 5.5 m/hr
Required Distell water – 10 litter. [ Distell water is use for cooling
the valve ]

MAN POWER IN DYEING

21 machines : - 4 operators Hydro/RF dryer : - 2 operators Loading
: - 2 operators Chemical supply : - 1 operator
Dispatch :- 3 operators (general shift) Lab : - 1 operator
Data entry : - 1 operator (general shift)

125 | P a g e
TEXTILE DESIGN

126 | P a g e
 CENTRE FOR TEXTILE FUNCTIONS
MUKESH PATEL SCHOOL OF TECHNOLOGY, MANAGEMENT AND
ENGINEERING, SVKM’S NMIMS, SHIRPUR CAMPUS

CERTIFICATE

This is certify that Mr. Deepur Kaushik & Mr. Akash Kr Tiwari
has satisfactorily completed the Internship work in the Designing
dept “Raymond Luxury Cottons Ltd ”, placed at Amravati for 4-
months as laid down in the regulations of Raymond grp for the
purpose of the Internship work in the duration September 2019-
January 2020

Mr. Malligarjun Samy Mr. Vinay Kr Pandey

(Deputy Manager, DESIGNING , RLCL) (Executive, DESIGNING , RLCL)

Mr. Sachin Ambildhuke

( Executive ,DESIGNING,RLCL)

COMPANY STAMP

127 | P a g e
TEXTILE DESIGN:-
Textile design is the process of creating structures for woven,
knitted, non woven or embellishments of fabrics. Textile designing
involves producing structure for cloth used in clothing, household
textiles (such as towels) and home furnishing textiles such as
carpets.

FLOW CHART OF DESIGNING PROCESS

CUSTOMER

MARKETTING

DEVELOPMENT ENQUIRY (CAD / SWATCH)

DESIGNING DEPARTMENT

(ALREADY DEVELOPED) (NEW CODED)

SYSTEM (COUNT,EPI,PPI,SHADE)

CUSTOMER REQUIRMENT (HANGER)

TECHNICAL SHEET

YARN QUANTITY
(IS IT AVAILABLE OR NOT IN GODOWN)

WEAVING

FABRIC INSPECTION
DISPATCH TO KOLAPUR PLANT (FOR FINISHING PURPOSE)

128 | P a g e
TYPES OF DESIGNING :
1) Plain
2) Oxford
3) Twill
4) Satin
5) Sateen
6) Matt
7) Mockleno
8) Dobby Design

SOP OF DESIGNING
A standard operating procedure, or SOP, is a set of step-by-step instructions
compiled by an organization to help workers carry out complex routine
operations. SOP’s aim to achieve efficiency, quality output and uniformity
of performance, while reducing miscommunication and failure to comply
with industry regulations.
SOP PURPOSE--
To ensure compliance standards are met
To maximize production requirements
To ensure the procedure has no adverse impact on environment
To ensure safety
To ensure everything goes according to schedule
To prevent failures in manufacturing
To be used as training document
If you know what your SOP should emphasize, it'll be easier to structure
your writing around those points. It's also easier to see just how important
your SOP is.

129 | P a g e
MAIN CONTENT—
DESK LOOM SAMPLE DEVELOPMENT
SAMPLE YARDAGE DEVELOPMENT / SEASONAL
COLLECTION.
BULK ORDER SPECIFICATION.
FIRST PIECE CHECKING.

OBJECTIVE—
Is to dispatch DLS within 12 days
Is to dispatch Suzuki Yardage sample within 15-20days
Is to dispatch Seasonal Collection as marketing expectation within
2 to
2.5 months.
Zero mistakes in specification.
Zero mistake in First Piece checking with Quick action.

130 | P a g e
DESK LOOM SAMPLE DEVELOPMENT
OBJECT—
To dispatch DLS to marketing at committed delivery date.
To minimize remake in DLS
Exact colour matching as per customer STD
To provide updated status to concerned person
To maintain the Average production.
To maintain DLS lead-time.
To track and daily follow-up status of each DLS to meet committed
delivery date

CUSTOMER—
Marketing team /External customer.
RESPONSIBILITY—
Designer/AM/HOD.

SAMPLE YARDAGE DEVELOPMENT/ SEASONAL

COLLECTIONS

OBJECTIVE—
To do planning as per the committed delivery dates to marketing.
To produce Zero defect yardage sample.
Exact colour matching as per customer STD
To provide updated status to concern persons.
To maintain the Average production.
CUSTOMER—
Marketing Team/External customer.
RESPONSIBILITY—
Designer/HOD.

131 | P a g e
BULK ORDER SPECIFICATION
OBJECT--
Zero mistake in specification
25 to 30ADVS/Day/Designer.
No delays in issuing order to PPC.
To maintain Neat and Clean Specification paper and File at proper
identified place.
RESPONSIBILITY—
Designer/HOD.
CUSTOMER—
PPC/Marketing/Mumbai design studio.

CHECK POINTS : ON LOOM FIRST PIECE

CHECKING

Pattern- Warp and Weft

Shade and Count
Peg plan and Draft
PPcm
Reed Count
Selvedge
Reediness
Shade variation
Streakiness
Section wise pattern mistake
Section wise colour mistake
Grey width
Shade to be match as per development (in case of order on
development)
In case of direct order check with customer standard also
Keep bulk fabric small swatch with technical sheet also.

132 | P a g e
First piece should be checked within 2 hrs
Feedback given to weaving officer, if any deviation correct on
loom and take sign from weaving officer.
Proper record keeping of first piece with date and checker wise
First piece should be rechecked by designing officer
Keep first piece in stock only for two months
After recheck of first send technical sheet for proper filling.

FIRST PIECE CHECKING

OBJECT--
Zero mistake in first piece checking.
Quick action.
CUSTOMER--
Weaving.
RESPONSIBILITY--
Designer/HOD
SEQUENCE: -
FY153718 SO46100508/2

WEFT PATTERN: 1A

PICKS/CM (LOOM):-21.00 PICKS/CM (FINISH):-22.00

WEFT CODE/SHADE/NAME: - (00L021431/ 2833/ CRUSCA)
ARTICLE NAME: - JACQ LIN 60
ARTICLE NUMBER: - 228J
DESIGN NUMBER: -Z076
COLOUR VARIANT:-80
REED COUNT:-10.6
MONOGRAM COUNT:-76/2 PSF
MONOGRAM DENTING:- (6,6,6,6,6,6,6,6) in(10.6×0.7)= in 8
dent
133 | P a g e
WEAVE BETWEEN TWO WORD IN MONOGRAM: - IN
DOBBY MONOGRAM ½ TWILL
WEAVE :- JACQUARD
PRODUCT TYPE :-WFC (WARP LIGHT &WEFT DARK
COLOUR)
COLOUR COVERAGE: - 48.38 (100 - % OF WHITE
COLOUR)

PPCM variation before finishing and after finishing

Before finishing After finishing

( 30 – 1 ) = 29 ppcm Within 30 ppcm
( 40-1.5) = 38.5 ppcm Above 30 ppcm

DESK LOOM :-
The desk loom is a 1-2 metre fabric in length having width 20" the
desk loom is used for comparing the colour and pattern from the
original cuttings/samples.

Desk loom basically a fabric made on sample weaving machine.

Desk loom submission is necessary in order to get review of the
fabric which going to approve.
Generally desk loom submitted for yarn dyed fabric.
Mostly appeal of colour combination & weaving structure is
assessed here.

SAMPLE WARPING MACHINE:-

The operation of winding warp yarns onto a beam usually in

preparation for Weaving. Also called warping. In a word, warping
is the parallel winding of yarn from cone or cheese package on to a
warp beam.

134 | P a g e
MACHINE DATA

Machine manufacturing company – cci Model name – sw550

Power source – 220v 1 phase, 50-60 HZ Maximum power – 2 kw
Pneumatic pressure – 6 kpa ( kg/ cm2) Machine width – 20 inch
Efficiency – 12 beam / shift Weight – 550 kg

SAMPLE WEAVING MACHINE:-

MACHINE DATA:-
Machine manufacturing company – cci
Model name :- EVERGREEN 500
Maximum no of heald frame : 20
Maximum weft feed : 8
Max power : 3kw Pneumatic pressure :
5 KPa Weight : 700 kg
Efficiency : 45-55 ppm
Shedding mechanism : Dobby
shedding mechanism.
CCI's automated sampling looms are designed specifically to meet
complex demands of woven sampling. It is basically use in any
space-limited environment such as office, design studio, and R&D
centre.

135 | P a g e
 Yardage
Process:_

Single end warping

Beaming

Drawing in

Denting

Weaving

Yardage process is basically is use for when customer require

sample length is greater than 3 meter.

o Single end warping:-

Machine manufacturing company: Suzuki

Product Description
 High speed automatic sample warpers in various sizes for high
efficient, good and accurate production of sample warps.
 He machines are suitable for short production samples.
 The advantage of single end warping has been fully exploited. Yarns
can be cotton, wool, chemical fibre, silk etc.
 The machines allow operation with both, the standard and the
rotational creel in one single process.

136 | P a g e
Width up 2200 mm.

Warping speeds up to 1500 m/min

Warp length 7 to 280 meters depending on yarn count.

Unlimited design patterns.

STANDRAD SPEED FOR LINEN QUALITY IN SUZUKI WARPING
RPM LINEN
SC (standard creel RC ( rotational Description LEA Count Material
) creel ) 15 NML 25 11 00L008931
600 MPM 500 MPM 20 NML 33 11 00L011931
600 MPM 500 MPM 24 NML 40 14 00L014331
600 MPM 500 MPM 26 NML 44 15 00L015731
600 MPM 500 MPM 30 NML 51 17 00L017831
600 MPM 500 MPM 32 NML 55 19 00L019031
600 MPM 500 MPM 36 NML 60 21 00L021431
600 MPM 500 MPM 39 NML 68 23 00L023231
600 MPM 500 MPM 42 NML 70 25 00L025031
600 MPM 500 MPM 48 NML 80 28 00L028531
500 MPM 400 MPM 60 NML 100 35 00L035731
400 MPM 300 MPM 78 NML 130 46 00L046431
400 MPM 300 MPM

STANDRAD SPEED FOR COTTON QUALITY IN SUZUKI WARPING

RPM COTTON
SC RC COUNT MATERIAL
700 MPM 600 MPM 30/2 092030092C
700 MPM 600 MPM 40/2 092040092C
700 MPM 600 MPM 50/2 092050092C
700 MPM 600 MPM 60/2 092060092C
700 MPM 600 MPM 81/2 092081092C
700 MPM 600 MPM 101/2 092010192C
600 MPM 500 MPM 121/2 092012192C
500 MPM 400 MPM 140/2 092014092C

137 | P a g e
: LINEN :
[Link]. LEA COUNT MATERIAL DESCRIPTION
1. 25 lea 8 00L008931 15 NML
2. 33 lea 11 00L011931 20 NML
3. 40 lea 14 00L014331 24 NML
4. 44 lea 15 00L015731 26 NML
5. 51 lea 17 00L017831 30 NML
6. 55 lea 19 00L019031 32 NML
7. 60 lea 21 00L04431 36 NML
8. 68 lea 23 00L023231 39 NML
9. 70 lea 25 00L025031 42 NML
10. 80 lea 28 00L028531 48 NML
11. 100 lea 35 00L035731 60 NML
12. 130 lea 46 00L046431 78 NML

: COLOURS:
SHADE NAME [Link] NAME [Link] NAME

White 0001 0001

Red 2134 1V001
Yellow 2235 2V001
Orange 2304 3V001
Green 2416 4V001
Blue 2504 5V001
Violet 2620 6V001
Grey 2717 7V001
Brown 2849 8V001
Black 2910 9V001

138 | P a g e
SELVEDGE & MONOGRAM GUIDE LINE FOR LINEN &
COTTON
As par warp count, body drawing in & denting

Warp Selvedg e Reed Monogram Denting Monogram Weave

count weave count count between
two
wording
44 lea plain 9.4 (6,7,7,7,7,7,7) 76/2 PSF Dobby
In 7 dent Monogra
m 1\2 twill
60 lea plain 10.6 (6,6,6,6,6,6,6,6) 76/2 PSF Dobby
In 8 dent Monogra m
1\2 twill
70 lea plain 11 (6,6,6,6,6,6,6,6) 76/2 PSF Dobby
In 8 dent Monogra m
1\2 twill
80 lea plain 13 (5,5,5,6,6,6,5,5,5 76/2 PSF Dobby
) Monogra m
In 9 dent 1\2 twill
100 plain 15 (4,4,4,4,5,5,5,5,4, 76/2 PSF Dobby
lea 4, Monogra m
4) In 11 dent 1\2 twill
44,60, 2/2 Rib as per count given 76/2 PSF Dobby
70, above Monogra m
80,10 1\2 twill
0 lea
40,50 plain 1 end more than body 76/2 PSF Dobby
cotton denting Monogra m
count 1\2 twill
60,70, plain 1 end more than 120/2PSF Dobby
80 body denting Monogra
Cotton m 1\2 twill
count
40, 50 2/2 Rib 1 end more than body 76/2 PSF Dobby
Cotton denting Monogra
count m 1\2 twill

139 | P a g e
 DEFINITION OF YARN CODE
( Yarn code = 006050031C )
Here;

006- Mixing of yarn

050-Indicate count
031-Last numerical digit indicate ply
C-spinning technique
Giza – 00605031c
Ultima – 003050031c
Gizamix / minor / blend – 098050031c
Indian / Indian cc – 092050031c

Product Dyed yarn Grey portion

White / P D 003050031c
WWC/WPC/FAF/PAP/WFC 006050031c 006050031c
Incase 2000 candido in warp&
oxford,3/1&2/1 Matt
YDS/YDC 098050031c 092050031c
Gizamix/minor/blend
YDS/YDC 092050031c 092050031c

Count White Yarn dyed Piece dyed Con/ Mig YD

81/2c 005081092c 098081092c 005081092c 098081092c
101/2c 005101092c 098101092c 005101092c 007101092c

YDC/YDC / WFC-Only vat

140 | P a g e
PRODUCTION RATE OF SUZUKI WARPING MACHINE:-
FOR LINEN :
MACHINE NAME PRODUCTION / SHIFT
RC ( Rotational Creel ) 5 Beam
SC ( Standard Creel ) 3 Beam

FOR COTTON :
MACHINE NAME PRODUCTION / SHIFT
RC ( Rotational Creel ) 4 Beam
SC ( Standard Creel ) 2 Beam

FIRST PIECE CHECKING

DATE KNOTTING GAITTING MATCHING

CHANGE
01.07.18 10 8 3
02.07.18 16 7 6
03.07.18 19 4 2
04.07.18 18 3 6
05.07.18 20 5 6
06.07.18 24 8 1
OVERALL SAMPLE CHEAK – ( 32-35 ) / DAY

PRODUCT TYPE :
WHT – White.
YDS – Yarn Dyed Stripe.
YDC -- Yarn Dyed Check.
WFC – Weft Chambery (warp light colour and weft dark colour).
WPC – Warp Chambery (warp dark colour and weft light colour).
WWC – Warp Weft Chambery (Both Dark colour).
PAP – Pick A Pick (1A,1B)/Barre.
FAF –Fill A Fill.

141 | P a g e
Desk Loom Warping Calculation :
EXAMPLE :1
As per the technical sheet, Avg .EPC = 28.20 So, Total number of
ends =28.20×50
=1410
Weaving warp pattern 120A

1B
121 =total

Ends repeat 11 times =121×11

=1331
Total end including selvage =1331+60(both side)
=1391.

Draft Code:11
Harness:8 × × × ×
Ends:24 × × × ×
Time:200 × × × ×
Dent:3 × × × ×
peg plan

142 | P a g e
 8 8 8
7 7 7
6 6 6
5 5 5
4 4 4
3 3 3
2 2 2
1 1 1
Drafting
Total no of ends =1410.
Ends of one repeat 24 ends. Total repeats =1410/24=58.57.
1st harness heald wire =58.57×3=176 2nd harness heald wire=176
3rd harness heald wire=176 4th harness heald wire=176 5th harness
heald wire=176 6th harness heald wire=176 7th harness heald
wire=176 8th harness heald wire=176
EXAMPLE : 2
As per the technical sheet, Avg. Epc=25.20
Total number of ends =25.20×50
=1260
3 Weaving warp pattern are same=1260/3=420.
1A
2C ×16 ×2
2B
Total ends =130
1st Design no of end required =130×3= 390 Same 2nd and 3rd
Design required end = 390. In reed space in desk loom = 20´´.
3 section no of ends= 390×3 = 1170
Total ends =1170+60(both side selvage) =1230. Total Fabric
length =60´´
Each section length =20´´

143 | P a g e
WEAVING
PREPARATORY

144 | P a g e
 CENTRE FOR TEXTILE FUNCTIONS
MUKESH PATEL SCHOOL OF TECHNOLOGY, MANAGEMENT AND
ENGINEERING, SVKM’S NMIMS, SHIRPUR CAMPUS

CERTIFICATE

This is certify that Mr. Deepur Kaushik & Mr. Akash Kr Tiwari
has satisfactorily completed the Internship work in the weaving
preparatory dept “Raymond Luxury Cottons Ltd ”, placed at
Amravati for 4-months as laid down in the regulations of Raymond
grp for the purpose of the Internship work in the duration September
2019-January 2020

Mr. Nazmul Hossain

(Depty Manager, Weaving Prep. , RLCL)

COMPANY STAMP

145 | P a g e
PROCESS FLOW OF WEAVING
PREPARATORY

Programmes issue from PPC as per dispatch plan

Winding plan as per technical sheet

Checking required quantity of yarn against winding plan

Programmes send to yarn godown

Yarn issue to check post

Shade,lot,required quantity(kg) checked in check post

Winding issue for warp and weft

Warping (for cotton ) Sizing

Drawing in / Knotting

146 | P a g e
Weaving preparatory process
Weaving preparatory process:
There are three main steps of weaving preparatory process.
Winding
Warping
Sizing

Winding
Winding is a process in which yarn from ring bobbins are wound
into convenient form of package. Transferring a yarn from one type
of package, more suitable for subsequent process is also called
winding. It occurs both in spinning and weaving.
Main objectives of winding include :
Increase package size according to the requirement of subsequent
process.
Clearing yarn defects like slub, thick and thin places, neps, etc.
Package dying.
To improve the quality of yarn.
To get suitable yarn package.
To get a quality fabric.
To get good warp yarn.
To empty the spinner’s bobbin so that it can be used again.
To remove the dust and clean the yarn.
To reduce labour cost.
To store the yarn.
To improve the efficiency of yarn for the next process.

147 | P a g e
REQUIREMENTS OF WINDING:

Winding process should be accurate for accelerate the next fabric

manufacturing process. Winding process should full fill the
following requirements,Winding process should be easy.
Characteristics of the yarn should not be [Link] faults
should be minimize. Yarn package size and shapes should be
suitable. Winding process should be economical.
Yarn package should be cheap in cost. Avoid excess looseness or
tightness. Exact package hardness. In winding, yarn knots should
be small in size and amount of knots should be minimum. So,
that’s all about winding process and
objectives and requirements of
winding.
WINDING RATE
Winding rate is the speed at which
the yarn is wound on package
surface. In case of parallel package,
traverse is very slow, so winding
rate is approximately equal to the
surface speed.
TYPES OF WINDING
MACHINE
Warp winding machine
Weft winding machine
Soft winding machine
WARP WINDING MACHINE : To produce the warp package
for warping beam.
WEFT WINDING MACHINE : To produce the weft package.
SOFT WINDING MACHINE : To rewind the dyed package to
check if there is any fault or hade variation in package. And to
produce compact package from soft package to store the package
for future use.

148 | P a g e
WINDING MACHINE DATA
Machine name – SSM-3 ( SCHARER SCHWEITER METTLER
AG)
Machine no – 9.0031/16 U – 415v
I max – 42A f- 50HZ
Total no of spindle = 60+60 = 120

TAPPER ANGLE MAXIMUM MINIMUM RUNNING

Left tapper 105 15 75

Right tapper 105 15 85
COMPENSATION
LEFT 100% 0 10%
RIGHT 100% 0% 10%
TUBE DIAMETER 250 mm 10mm 60mm
PACKAGE 250mm 10mm 180mm
DIAMETER
YARN LENGTH 9999999 m 0m 4220m
LENGTH 1.200 0.800 0.998
CORRECTION
FACTORE
FULL PACKAGE 10000g 0 124g
WEIGHT
COMPENSATION 20 1 1
CURVE ID
TRAVERSE 20 1 16
VARIATION
CURVE ID
TRAVERSE 100% 0 10%
VARIATION
TRAVERSE 40.0mm -40.0mm 0.0
OFFSET
TRAVERSE 9.9mim 0.0 0.0
VARIATION

149 | P a g e
DELAY
TRAVERSE 9.9 min 0.1 min 0.8min
VARIATION
CYCLE TIME
PRODUCTION 1200 m/min 10 m/min 800 m/min
SPEED
INITIAL SPEED 1200 m/min 10 m/min 750 m/min
DEACELARATION 1200 m/min 0 m/min 800 m/min
SPEED
START RAMP 60s 5s 10s
TIME
ACCELERATION 250mm 0mm 65mm
RAMP END
DIAMETER
DEACELERATION 250mm 10mm 200mm
START DAMETER

150 | P a g e
PRODUCTION OF WINDING MACHINE
Production of winding machine can be calculated by the following
formula:
Production (lbs/hr) =
{s.s of drum × 60 × time (hrs) × efficiency × n × 1.0936} / { 840
× count}
PRODUCTION OF TWO IN ONE PACKAGE

LOT NO SHADE COUNT NO OF PKG TOTAL PKG NET

WEIGHT
100736262 2902 26 NML 2 2 2
1007383581 2902 26 NML 2 2 2
1007377913 2597 36 NML 2 2 2
1007377912 2597 36 NML 2 2 2
1007383141 4R301 36 NML 2 2 2
107382656 8V198 26 NML 2 2 2
1007383938 2902 26 NML 2 2 2

151 | P a g e
WARPING:
Warping is the process of transferring a number of yarns from a
creel of single end packages, forming a parallel sheet on to a beam.
OBJECTIVE OF WARPING:-
The objective of warping is to convert the yarn packages into a
warper’s beam having desired width and containing requisite
number of ends.
The yarn are would onto the warper’s beam in the from of a sheet
composed of parallel bands of yarns each coming out from a
package placed on the creel.

TYPES OF WARPING:-
Many different warping system have been used over the years, but
the modern market is monopolised by just two :
High-speed beaming / Direct warping and Section warping.

DIRECT OR BEAM WARPING MACHINE

It produces the warper beams that are combined together as a
single weavers beam in the next process of sizing.
A warpers beam may contain 500 – 1000ends.
Direct warping is suitable for grey or mono – coloured warps that
require sizing.
Components of warping machine are :
Creel;
Headstock;
Control devices.

152 | P a g e
FLOW CHART OF YARN PASSAGE
THROUGH WARPING MACHINE
Creel

Spindles

Tension rods

Stop motion sensor

Headstock

Warp sheet on to comb

Guide roller

Warping beam

153 | P a g e
 SECTIONAL WARPING MACHINE:-
Sectional warping is preferred over beam warping for multi-
coloured warp. Here the entire width of the warping drum is not
developed simultaneously. It is developed section by section.
Also used for double / grey or mono – colour warps that do not
required sizing.
Here a weavers beam is produced, where as sizing beam is
produced in direct warping.
In case of single colour yarns, the yarns are sized and then wound
on the beam.
The yarn is wound in sections & each section has particular width.
Thus the total number of warp ends for the weavers beam are
divided into suitable number of sections on the warping drum.

SEQUENCE OF SECTIONAL WARPING

CREEL LEASING EXPANDABLE LENGTH
SYSTEM DRUM
REED MEASURING
SYSTEM

BEAMING
SYSTEM

154 | P a g e
COMPARISON BETWEEN DIRECT AND
SECTIONAL WARPING
DIRECT WARPING SECTIONAL WARPING
Used for high volume production. Used for small volume and customised
production. ( stripes and specialised
yarns )
One step process Two step process
High creel capacity is required Low creel capacity is sufficient
Beaming speed is high Beaming speed is low
Better control over the tension of Lesser control over the tension of
individual yarns individual yarns
Comparatively less expensive Comparatively more expensive
More popular Less popular

MACHINE DATA:-
Machine manufacturing company : PRASHANT GAMATEX Model no :
Total no of creel: 672
Creel type : Reserve creel ( both side )

155 | P a g e
DISPLAY DATA OF SECTIONAL WARPING
MACHINE
YARN COUNT 15.7 NE
TOTAL ENDS 3524
BEAM WIDTH 1680
WARP SPEED 175 MPM
TENSIN /THREAD SET 15GM
SECTION ENDS (F) 294
SECTION ENDS (M) 294
SECTION ENDS (L) 290
TOTAL SECTION 12
COMPLETED END 2646
BALANCE END 878
MAX. WARP LENGTH 4526 MTR
SET WARP LENGTH 405 MTR
PIECE LENGTH 0 MTR
SECTION WIDTH (F) 140.16
SECTION WIDTH (M) 140.16
SECTION WIDTH (L) 138.25
SET YARN DENSITY 490 GM/DN
PITCH MULTIPLE FACTOR 80
REED IN OUT (1-EN O-DIS) 1
MONO YARN (1-EN O-DIS) 0

156 | P a g e
CALCULATION OF WINDING PLAN (MANUALLY)
As per the technical sheet,
here the total number of ends (including the two side monogram
ends)=3620 So the total body ends=(3620-2×48) (as each monogram
consist 48 ends)
=3524
Length =357.669 meter Reed space=167.74 cm Count=21 Ne
Warp Pattern= 2A
2B
8C
6A
12B X2
28C
12B
56A
6C
6B
12A
2C
2B
56A
Total ends in a single pattern =256
Total number of A types colour used in a single pattern=138 Total number
of B types colour used in a single pattern=46 Total number of C types
colour used in a single pattern=72 In all over the width A used=(138/256)
×3524=1900 times
B used=(46/256) ×3524=633

C used=(72/256) ×3524=991
Weight of the colour A required=[(357.669/1693)/21] ×1900=19.11kg
Weight of colour B required=[(357.669/1693)/21] ×633=6.7kg
Weight of colour C required=[(357.669/1693)/21] ×991=10kg No of repeat
per section=(336/256)=1.31=1
No of section =3524/256=13.76 13 section×256=3328

157 | P a g e
1 section×196=196
Required pkgs for colour A=138 Required pkgs for colour B=46 Required
pkgs for colour C=72
Total length of the pkg = 357×14=4998 meter
Weight of a single doff=[(4998/1693)/21]=140.6 gram Total weight of pkg
A=140.6×138=19.39kg
Weight of pkg B=140.6×46=6.46kg Weight of pkg C=140.6×72=10.12kg
Supply package for colour A from the godown=22kg
Number of doff we get from a single large package of 1 kg
weight=(1000/140.6)=7.11
Bottom Package =[1000-(7×140.6)]=15.8 gram Supply package for colour
B from godown=8kg Number of doff for B=7
Supply package for C from godown=12kg Number of doff for C=7

DENTING CALCULATION—
As per technical sheet here the reed space =167.74cm=1677mm Each
section width=(1677.74/3524) ×256=121.85mm
Last section width=(1667.74/3524) ×196=93.29mm Reed dent
space=1.5mm
So, denting=256/121.85/1.5=1.4
We choose a denting sequence for 1.4dent is like
1,2,1,2,1,2,1,2,1,2,1,2,1,2,1,2,1,2,1,2,1,2,1,2,1

158 | P a g e
SIZING PROCESS
Sizing is the most important term
for weaving technology. After
winding and warping, sizing of
yarn is done during beam
preparation. Sizing is done by
applying various types of size
materials on the day.
The weaving requires warp yarn to
be strong, smooth and elastic to a certain degree. To achieve these
properties, protective coating of a film forming agent is applied to
the warp yarns prior to weaving. The application of size material
on the warp sheet, to induce the desired efficiently.
- Here only cotton yarn are sized.
Properties of sized yarn—
By applying size ingredients on the yarn following properties are
obtained. There are—
Higher elasticity
Higher flexibility
Lower extension or elongation
Lower frictional resistance
Increased smoothness
Less weakness
Insensible to over drying
Less hairiness

So, size ingredients change the physical properties of cellulosic

fibre which is used for making a weavers beam.

Parameter Affecting Performance Of Sized Yarn

Parameter affecting performance of warp yarns during weaving
include ---
159 | P a g e
Yarn Type: Staple, filament, ring, open end, comber, carded, etc.
Material: Cotton, viscose, polyester, etc
Quality: Hairiness, thick and thin places, etc
Sizing Machine: Pre wetting, cylinder or hot air drying, etc
Size recipe: Starch, PVA, CMC, etc
Size pick up: more or less , core sized, surface sized
Weave : plain, twill, satin
Loom type: shuttle, air jet, rapier, etc
Loom RPM: slow or high
Handling: machine speed, cylinder temp, etc
Adjustment: squeezing pressure, moisture, etc

SOP of size cooking—

To take programme from the officer.
To take required of water.
To add the chemicals as per SOP for individual for given mixing
no wise.
Chemical cooking to be set at required temperature given mixing
no. wise.
To keep the mixing as it is after achieving temperature till 30
minute.
Transfer the size mixing in the cooker.
To measure RF% and viscosity of the chemical in the storage
cattle.
Through cleaning of cookers after every mixing.

160 | P a g e
FLOW CHART OF YARN PASSAGE
THROUGH SIZING MACHINE
Creel

Warp sheet Size box

Measuring roller Feeding roller
Press roller Pendulam roller
Immersion roller Squeeze roller
Mini drying cylinder
Drying cylinder

Waxing device
Splitting zone

Head stock Comb

Guide roller
Weavers beam

161 | P a g e
CHEMICAL FLOW PROCESS OF SIZING MACHINE

MIXER TANK

COOKER TANK

RESERVER 1

RESERVER 2

SIZE BOX

162 | P a g e
MONOGRAM PACKAGE MAKING MACHINE:

MACHINE NAME: Prashant selvedge warping machine TOTAL NO OF

CREEL: 72
USEABLE NO OF CREEL: 48 [ Blue (B) = 26, White (W) = 22 ]
Sequence : 2B+[ (W+B)×22 ]+2B
LENGTH OF YARN IN ONE PACKAGE: 1000 meter
For making monogram generally “cotton “ yarn is use.

PROCESS SEQUENCE
CREEL

DISC TENSIONER

INDIVIDUAL END GUIDE

DROP WIRE ( Stop motion )

REED

SPLITER

TENSIONER

PACKAGE

163 | P a g e
LINO PACKAGE MAKING MACHINE:
MACHINE NAME: Reshmi Precision Winder NO. OF HEAD : 6
NO. OF SPINDLE : 12
For making lino package generally “ Polyester “ yarn is use.

BEAM TO BEAM WARPING MACHINE

OBJECTIVE:-
If the total no of ends and the pattern of two or more than two
weavers beam are same then those are converted into one beam to
increase the efficiency of the production.
By using the knotting machine ( Staubli ) two weavers beams are
joined together in one beam.
20-25 minutes required for knotting

Waste Calculation In Preparatory

TODAY TO TODAY TO TODAY TO TODAY TO TODAY TO

DATE DATE DATE DATE DATE

1st 3 3 7 7 21 21 25 25 2 2
nd
2 0 3 6 13 2 23 4 29 1 3
3rd 0.2 3.2 5.2 18.5 19 42 2.8 31.8 2 5
4th 3 6.2 9 27.5 0 42 1 32.8 0 5
5th 2 8.2 6 33.5 16 58 2 34.8 1.5 6.5
6th 1 9.2 8 41.5 12 70 3 37.8 7 13.5
7th 6 15.2 5.2 46.7 19 89 26 63.8 3 16.5
8th 2 17.2 5 51.7 1 90 25 88.8 2 18.5
9th 3 20.2 6 57.7 2 92 26 114.8 3 21.5
th
10 4 24.2 8 65.7 19 111 2 116.8 3 24.5

164 | P a g e
DRAWING &
DENTING

165 | P a g e
DRAWING
It is the process of passing the warp into the drop wire is called drawing.
Here manually drawing is done.

DENTING
It is the process of passing warp yarn into the reed is called denting.

KNOTTING
The tail end of the warp from the exhausted warp beam is tied to the
beginning of the new warp is called knotting.

THE CONDITION OF KNOTTING

Be easy to [Link] is no variation of count of yarn.
Warp number of new beam must be equal or less than from the exhausted
warp beam.

GAITING
It is the process of setting drawing, drafting, denting in loom is called
gaiting.

166 | P a g e
WEAVING

167 | P a g e
 CENTRE FOR TEXTILE FUNCTIONS
MUKESH PATEL SCHOOL OF TECHNOLOGY, MANAGEMENT AND
ENGINEERING, SVKM’S NMIMS, SHIRPUR CAMPUS

CERTIFICATE

This is certify that Mr. Deepur Kaushik & Mr. Akash Kr Tiwari
has satisfactorily completed the Internship work in the weaving dept
“Raymond Luxury Cottons Ltd ”, placed at Amravati for 4-
months as laid down in the regulations of Raymond grp for the
purpose of the Internship work in the duration September 2019-
January 2020

Mr. Rajesh Bharadwaj Mr. Madhushudan Adarshe

(Manager,Weaving , RLCL) (Depty Manager, Weaving, RLCL)

COMPANY STAMP

168 | P a g e
WEAVING:-
Weaving is a method of textile production in which two distinct
sets of yarns or threads are interlaced at right angles to form a
fabric or cloth. The longitudinal threads are called the warp and the
lateral threads are the weft or filling. reads are the weft or filling.
The method in which these threads are inter-woven affects the
characteristics of the cloth.
Cloth is usually woven on a loom, a device that holds the warp
threads in place while filling threads are woven through them.
The way the warp and filling threads interlace with each other is
called the weave. The majority of woven products are created with
one of three basic weaves: plain weave, satin weave, or twill.
Woven cloth can be plain (in one colour or a simple pattern), or
can be woven in decorative or artistic design.

169 | P a g e
WEAVING PROCESS

WEAVING
MOTIONS

PRIMARY MOTION SECONDARY TARTIARY MOTION

MOTION

WARP STOP
SHEDDING LET-OFF MPTION

WEFT STOP
PICKING TAKE-UP MOTION

BEAT-UP WARP
PROTECTOR
MOTION

BASIC MECHANISM :-
In order to interlace warp and weft threads to produce fabric on any
type of weaving machine, three operations are necessary:
SHEDDING :- Separating the warp threads, which run down the
fabric, into two layers to form a tunnel known as the shed.
PICKING :- Passing the weft thread, which traverse across the
fabric, through the shed.
BEATING UP:- Pushing the newly inserted length of weft, known
as the pick, into the already woven fabric at a point known as the
fell.

These three operation are often called the primary motions of

weaving and must occur in a given sequence.

170 | P a g e
Two additional operations are essential if weaving is to be
continuous:
LET OFF :- This motion delivers warp to the weaving area at the
required rate and at a suitable constant tension by unwinding it
from a flanged tube known as the weaver’s beam. And
TAKE –UP :- This motion withdraws fabric from the weaving
area at the constant rate that will give the required pick-spacing and
then winds it onto a roller.
And there are tertiary motions of the loom are the stop motions; to
stop the loom in the event of thread break.
The main stop motions are the :
Warp stop motion
Weft stop motion
Warp protection motion
TYPES OF SHEDDING
Three main types of shedding mechanism are—
1) CAM (tappet shedding)
2) DOBBY,
3) JACQUARD .
CAM SHEDDING
Simple and robust,
Inexpensive with regard to both initial cost and maintenance,
Not likely to cause faults in the fabric(reliable) and
Impose no limitation on the speed of the loom(up to
1000,1500rpm)
No. of picks/repeat is limited to 8 or 10
No. of heald frames(or ends/repeat) is limited to 8,10,12 heald
shaft.
DOBBY MECHANISM
Dobbies are much more versatile
Pattern change is easy; pattern chain is prepared in advance so that
less time is lost when the change is made.
there is virtually no limit to the number of picks/repeat (i.e.

171 | P a g e
5000picks),
Normally built up to control 20-28 shafts.
Together with the use of fancy DID, sufficient to produce weave or
combination of weaves arranged to give stripes, checks or design
of geometrical character
Handkerchief, tablecloth, and towels with contrasting pattern in the
borders.

JACQUARD MECHANISMS
Jacquard shedding mechanism are capable of producing large and
intricate weave designs that are beyond the scope of dobby
shedding mechanism.
In jacquard weaving, it is possible to control every warp yarn
individually.
Many specialized types of jacquard machine have been developed
for weaving particular kinds of fabric, such as terry towels,
damasks and carpets.
Most of the rest are general purpose types that are comparatively
easy to classify.
Objective –

 Manufacturing the fabric according to the peg plan

 To minimize defects
 To minimize time
 To increases the production rate
 To increases the efficiency

172 | P a g e
LOOM TIMING DIAGRAM

173 | P a g e
TYPES OF PICKING MECHANISM

PICKING
shuttle shuttle less
loom loom

projectile water jet

rapier loom airjet loom
loom loom

rigid rapier flexible

loom rapier loom

MACHINE DATA
Here three types of shedding mechanism are used in loom
Cam loom
Dobby loom
Jacquard loom
Total no of machine = 83
Here all loom are “flexible rapier” loom.

LOOM TYPES NO OF MACHINE LOOM NO

Cam 10 {1,2,11,12,21,22,31,32,49,50}
Jacquard 4 {80,81,82,83}
Dobby 69 Rest all

174 | P a g e
MACHINE DETAILS

MACHINE MANUFACTURING COMPANY : - PICANOL

MODEL NAME :- PICANOL OptiMax - i
MACHINE TYPE : -S3020 E3
DRC/C4CAN SOFT/ADAPT N° : -2123/1
VOLTAGE : -24 V
DC CURRENT : - 4 A – 8 A PEAK
MACHINE N° : -F16/98
PKA1/M/10 INPUT : -AC 220 ±10%
WEIGHT : -3900 KG (With Out Warp Beam) For Reed Width 190
Cm
4000 KG (With Out Warp Beam) For Reed Width 220 Cm
U : - 415V/3PH 50 HZ 1 FULL LOAD : -14.8 A
1 MOTOR FULL LOAD : -12.2 A
1 CU : -4 KA
MAXIMUM SPEED : -600 RPM

WIDTH OF LOOM

Here two type loom are present 190cm = 79 looms

220cm = 4 looms {loom no- 72,74,76,78}

175 | P a g e
MONOGRAM DRAWING

7 19 31 43
1 8 13 20 25 32 37 44
2 9 14 21 26 33 38 45
3 10 15 22 27 34 39 46
4 11 16 23 28 35 40 47
5 12 17 24 29 36 41 48
6 18 30 42

FLOW CHART OF YARN PASSAGE IN LOOM

weaver's beam

Backrest

WSM zone (warp stop

motion)

Heald Frame

Reed

Take up roller (embry

roller)

Cloth Roller

176 | P a g e
PRODUCTION CALCULATION
PRODUCTION CALCULATON : -
RPM × 60 ×24 × EFFICIENCY (%)
39.37
PPI
EXAMPLE : -
350 × 60 × 24 × 0.75
39.37

56
= 171 METER /DAY /MACHINE

M/C RPM EFFICIENCY PPCM PPI PRODUCTION

NO (METER/DAY)
1 320 66% 21.5 21.5×2.54 140.38
2 350 60% 21 21×2.54 143.27
3 320 56% 21 21×2.54 122.259
4 320 84.4% 23 23×2.54 167.44
5 301 47.2% 19.5 19.5×2.54 103.94
6 350 100% 21 21×2.54 238.78
7 300 83.5% 17.0 17×2.54 211.11
8 250 78.8% 31.5 31.5×2.54 88.69
9 200 32.8% 22 22×2.54 42.72

JACQUARD PRODUCTION

M/C NO RPM EFFICIENCY PPCM PPI PRODUCTION

( METER /
DAY)
80 330 91.4% 21 21×2.54 205.78
81 280 65.7% 21 21×2.54 125.51
82 350 50% 34.5 34.5×2.54 72.67
83 375 100% 27 27×2.54 199

177 | P a g e
 Linen count(lea) Std. Tension(Warp) KN
rpm
44 380 2.2-2.6
STD. RPM & WARP 60 330 2.2-2.4
TENSION 70 300 2.2-2.4
80 250 2.1-2.2
100 200 1.9-2.1
Warp 30 cotton× Weft 44 lea 400 2.5-3.0
Warp 40 cotton ×Weft 36 lea 380
Cotton × 460
cotton(40,50,80/2,100/2)
DATALOG LOOM ONLINE STOP CODE SYSTEM

STOP CODE DESCRIPTION

11 BEAM FULL
12 GAITTING
13 KNOTTING
14 NO BEAM
15 REAPAIRING
16 BREAK DOWN
17 ELECTRICAL PROBLEM
18 SPARE PART SHORTAGE
19 YARN SHORTAGE
20 WEAVER SHORTAGE
21 PREPREATORY PROBLEM
22 PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE
23 GUIDE TEETH BREAKAGE
24 TEXTILE REPAIR
25 KNOTS
26 SIX MONTLY
27 BATCHING
28 NO PROGRAM
29 QUALITY CHANGE
30 SPOOL CHANGE
31 MULTIPLE BREAKAGE
32 SAMPLE APPROVAL
33 WAITTING FOR KNOTTER
34 AWAITTIMG FOR GAITTER
35 NO WEFT

178 | P a g e
Indication Status Description
Colour
Is On Mechanical Stop The machine has stopped because a
mechanical error has occurred. For
example a control element (ELSY or
ELO
motor...) or a sensor (PX) is out of order.
Technician Called The machine has stopped because the
operator has called for a technician by
means of the terminal.
Flashes Slowly Lubrication Call The machine continues running, but the
machine itself or the operator (using the
White terminal) has called for the following:
Call For Article lubrication; or
Change article change; or
beam change.
Call For Beam
Change
Call For Rapier The machine continues running, but it
Tape has called for an imperative visual check
Check of the
rapier tape or it notifies that the
maximally
allowed life span of the rapier tape has
almost
been reached.
Red is on Warp Stop The machine has stopped because the
warp
stop motion has detected an error.
Warp Stop Motion The operator has switched off the warp
Switched Off stop
motion using the terminal.
- No warp stop motion has been
connected.
Flashes slowly Knotter Called The machine continues running, but the
operator has called a knotter by means of
the terminal
Orange is on Filling Stop The machine has stopped because the
filling
detector has detected an error.
Filling Detector The operator has switched off the filling
Switched Off detector using the terminal.
No filling detector has been connected.

179 | P a g e
 Flashes slowly Insertion Error The machine continues running, but an
insertion error has occurred.
.
For example, the bobbin for a certain
channel
has run out, but this channel is taken
over by
another channel working in PSO with the
first
one
green is on Hand Stop The operator has pushed the stop button.
Service Stop The machine has stopped automatically
in order for service work to be
performed.
.
For example, the preselected length has
been
reached, the oil level is too low...
Weaving Test The operator has switched on the
weaving test
by means of the terminal.
flashes slowly Doffer Called The machine continues running, but the
operator has called a doffer by means of
the
terminal.
Preselected Length The machine continues running, but a
Reached doffer
has been called because the preselected
length has been reached.
rapidly flashes Initialization The main switch QM has been set in the
PICAN Devices position -1- and the PICAN devices are
initialized. As soon as the signal light
flashes,
the POWER ON button no longer works

180 | P a g e
REQUIREMENT OF TIME FOR REPAIR BREAKAGE

Time required for repairing warp breakage – 1.15 min (approx.)

Time required for repairing weft breakage – 20 sec (approx.) Time
required for repairing monogram breakage – 1 min (approx.)
Time required for repairing selvedge breakage – 2 min 10 sec
(approx.)
SHED POSITION WHEN WARP OR WEFT YARN BREAK
During warp breakage shed position – close shed
During weft breakage shed position – open shed

Output – Weave fabric is final output of weaving.

Waste % - 2-3%

Efficiency – 75% for plain and dobby

95% for jacquard

Production rate –14000m/day

Productivity – 97%

M/C Cost – 70-80lacs

181 | P a g e
GRIEGE FABRIC
INSPECTION

182 | P a g e
 CENTRE FOR TEXTILE FUNCTIONS
MUKESH PATEL SCHOOL OF TECHNOLOGY, MANAGEMENT AND
ENGINEERING, SVKM’S NMIMS, SHIRPUR CAMPUS

CERTIFICATE

This is certify that Mr. Deepur Kaushik & Mr. Akash Kr Tiwari
has satisfactorily completed the Internship work in the Inspection dept
“Raymond Luxury Cottons Ltd ”, placed at Amravati for 4-months
as laid down in the regulations of Raymond grp for the purpose of the
Internship work in the duration September 2019-January 2020

Mr. Ram Ashish Pandey

(Depty Manager, GFI , RLCL)

COMPANY STAMP

183 | P a g e
 -:FABRIC INSPECTION:-
Inspection in reference to the apparel industry can be defined as the
visual examination or review of raw materials (like fabric, sewing
threads, buttons, trims, etc.), partially finished components of the
garments and completely finished garments in relation to some
standards.
OBJECTIVE OF INSPECTION :-
The main objective of inspection is the detection of the defects as
early as possible in the manufacturing process so that time and
money are not wasted later on in either correcting the defect or
writing off defective garments.
Name of fabric defects which are measure on fabric inspection
sector are :
SL. NO DEFECT NAME SHORT NAME
1 Uneven Warp Un W
2 Uneven Weft Un Wt
3 Coarse Warp Co W
4 Coarse Weft Co wt
5 Slub Slub
6 Fine Warp Fine w
7 Fine weft Fine Wt
8 Contamination Cont.
9 Kitty Kitt.
10 Neps Neps.
11 High twist High Tw
12 3 ply 3 ply
13 Broken Pick BP
14 Crack Cr
184 | P a g e
15 Defective Monogram DM
16 Dirty warp DW
17 Dirty weft D Wt
18 Distortion Dist
19 Double end DE
20 Emery Cut E Cut
21 Flot Fl
22 Hole Ho
23 Knote Knt
24 Lessing Pick Le pick
25 Loose Pick Lo pick
26 Miss end ME
27 Miss pick MP
28 Monogram missing M MISS
29 Multiple Breakage M brkg
30 Oil Stain Oi stain
31 Reed cut R Cut
32 Reed mark R Mark
33 Short Pick Sp
34 Size Patch S patch
35 Sizing Stain S stain
36 Loose end SE
37 Snarl Sl
38 Starting mark SM
39 Temple Cut T cut
40 Temple Mark T mark
41 Thick place TP

185 | P a g e
 42 Tight end T end
43 Warp Cut W cut
44 Warp flot W Fl
45 Weft Cut Wt cut
46 Weft Flot Wt fl
47 Wrong denting Wg dent
48 Wrong drawing Wg draw
49 Wrong pattern
50 Others OTH

MACHINE DATA:
Machine manufacturing company : YASH TEXTILE
MACHINES [Link].
Working width : 2000 mm
Total no of machine : 4
Total length measure in one shift : 6000 meter ( approx. )

4 POINT CHECKING SYSTEM

4 point system for fabric inspection is widely used in apparel industry
for fabric quality inspection. To use this system we have to know
following things –
Fabric inspection method.
Criteria of giving penalty points based on defects and defect length.
Calculation method of total penalty points for total defects found in a
fabric roll.

186 | P a g e
A check sheet or format for recording data.
Knowledge of different types of defects.

CRITERIA FOR GIVING PENALTY POINTS

CALCULATION OF TOTAL POINTS PER YARDS

In 4 point system fabric quality is evaluated by unit Points/ 100
[Link].
Points/ 100 sq. yd. = (total points in roll × 36 × 100)/(fabric length in
yds × fabric width in inches)

EXAMPLE –
A fabric roll 120 yds long and 46 inch wide contains following
defects.
LENGTH OF DEFECTS IN FABRIC (LENGTH OR WIDTH)
SIZE OF DEFECT PENALTY POINT
Defects up to 3 inches 1
Defects > 3 inches<= 6 inches 2

Defects > 6 inches <= 9 inches 3

Defects > 9 inches 4

4 defects up to 3 4×1 4 points
inch length
3 defects from 3 to 3×2 6 points
6 inch length
2 defects from 6 to 2×3 6 points
9 inch length
1 defect over 9 inch 1×4 4 points

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length

1 other defect 1×4 4 points

Total defects points 24 points
Therefore,
Points/ 100 sq yards = (24× 36× 100)/(120× 46)
= 15.652 points
ANY RUNNING DEFECT MORE THAN 4 CONTINUOUS
YARDS WILL CAUSE THE ROLL TO BE REJECTED.

FOR LINEN 24 POINTS PER 100 SQ YARDS FOR INDIVIDUAL

FABRIC Roll.

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